Harder & Steenbeck Ultra 2024 Airbrush - A Noob's First Experience
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- Опубликовано: 4 апр 2024
- Watch an airbrush noob's first experience with the Harder & Steenbeck Ultra 2024. I've been miniature painting with a brush for over 35 years, and now I'm trying my first airbrush. The Harder & Steenbeck Ultra 2024. I'm having issues, please help!
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I'm pretty new to airbrushing and got the Ultra2024 too.
To backflush, the trick is to give the end cap a tiny turn, just enough to block the nozzle, and it works.
Just be gentle with the air, or you will have paint on the ceiling. ☔
DO NOT confuse cleaner with thinners.
When cleaning/changing, drop cleaner into the cup, give it a stir, and then dump into a slops jar containing water. DO NOT spray.
Do that a few times until your cup is clear of paint before giving it a backflush.
ONLY spray once you have a clear cup. (into the pot, that's what it's for.)
I find the best "special sauce" for thinning Vallejo to be 70% Flow Improver, 30% Thinner, 10% Retarder and 2% IPA
This is using Vallejo, it might need a tweak for others. It doesn't block the nozzle so easily, and takes a little longer to dry, so you won't get 'orange peel', but you have to take a little more time.
Mix 5 parts sauce to 6 parts paint, but adjust according to coverage.
Also run around 25 PSI pressure. Maybe 30 for thick primers, 20 for light "blow-overs".
Compressor regulator and air pressure can make a huge difference.
Also, don't be scared to use the "Open" preset. I find the "Prime" setting a little conservative, so use "Open" with a bit more air and a bit more paint gives me a quicker and more even coverage with less of a grainy quality.
Your video is amazing. Thank you. Very helpful. I have started and need to see mistakes. Well done. One of the best I think on RUclips.
Wow! Thanks Brian! This video has reached way more people than I expected it would. I'm glad it was able to reach you.
I'm just starting out with my airbrush as well, and yes, practice makes perfect. The first time I used mine it was a disaster, but since then I have been steadily getting better. I'm far from any kind of expert, lol, I'm huge NOOB to this as well. Squidmar Miniatures has some good videos on airbrushing, and I'll have to check out some of the other ones that your mentioned.
Different manufacturers of airbrushes do make trigger versions, you may like that kind better. Good luck in the future with your airbrush endeavors.
Thanks Frank. Yeah, those other RUclipsrs I mentioned have some good videos about airbrushing for sure. I've been using my airbrush regularly since making this video, and it's getting a little less of a chore to use.
ditto
Don't backflush, it can force paint into parts of the brush where it shouldn't be. When I was starting out I did this too. I ended up with paint in the actual trigger mechanism of my old airbrush. It completely stopped working & I had to totally strip it down & soak it cleaner & lube it all to get it working again. Get yourself some cheap mixing cups & premix before adding to the brush cup. It'll keep your brush much cleaner in the long run & save you a lot of time cleaning etc.
I agree the push in cup can be a pain, paint bubbling out the seam etc. Same with the trigger being so close to the cup. It's also extremely susceptible to tip drying, compared to my other brushes. I have a small stippling brush I dip in thinner to clean the needle tip. Which I have to do a LOT! I don't have to do this with my other airbrush. I DO really like the collar however, & it's helped me with my trigger technique. It's not quite as all singing & dancing that H&S make out 🙂
I just loosen the needle valve cover slightly to backlash
Really? I'll give that a try! Thanks Dwight!
To backflow the ultra just untwist the nozzle cap about 1/8 of a turn and it will break the seal and cause it to backflow. Careful though because it will push a lot of air into the cup fast. But just untwist 1/8 turn then do your back bubble then screw it tight again.
Thanks for the tip! Someone else recently had that same tip for me, so I'll definitely give it a try.
@@ThreeFootGood Just go easy on the air or you will have a mess.
Nice review. I'm curious, it sound like it is a pain to setup and use, but if you are doing more than one mini (say an army), is that where you'll see more benefit? Or is volume of minis in a paint session not really a factor?
I would say it would be a benefit if you were working on an army for sure. I've used it more after making this video, and it does get easier as you use it.
When you are first starting out using an airbrush, it is a little daunting at first. My first time was a cluster F***K. But with practice it gets easier, and also getting used to cleaning between colors just comes with practice.
My biggest thing with wanting to use an airbrush is mainly to use it to prime and Zen with as well as for painting terrain. Mainly because I live in an area that the weather has a HUGE effect on if I can prime successfully or not. Snows a lot, rain a lot, humidity is an issue, all of which drastically effect the outcome of using rattle cans successfully.
There is a benefit to paint/prime a group of miniatures at once for as you can assembly line a color that way.
But I just look at airbrush as another tool in my arsenal, it will never replace the paint brush in my hand fully, but it is making my life a lot easier to get projects started an onto my painting desk. Looks like I have rambled again, but just my 2-cents.
I admit, to start, it can be a messy nightmare. It takes time.
The important thing is to plan ahead and makes sure a) You have everything you need to hand, jars, pots, paints, thinners, newspaper, kitchen roll/tissues etc. and b) you know what paints you will be using and where you plan to apply them.
All these idiots talking about "speed painting" can piss off. Rule one: TAKE ALL THE TIME YOU NEED. Don't rush it. Just be aware that paint will dry in the airbrush, so plan your moves before you put any paint in the brush, and then clean it ASAP afterwards.
Stop back-flushing!
Why? If it's clear, it works fine with acrylics.
Just don't do it with enamels or lacquers.