As a Mechanized Infantryman from back in the day, you are 100% correct that gear HAS to be strapped down, else it goes flying off. The only exception was we were able to "wedge" several full ammo cans for the .50 around the TC's cupola on our M113's and they would stay put, but that was it. Inside and out, everything was strapped in/on. Very nice video, Sir. Subbed.
You do superb work . . . particularly in those minute details that add volumes to how interesting it looks as well as authenticity. It is so helpful that you share your techniques and tips with your YT channel! Thank you!
VERY EXCELLENT WORK!....except for those tracks!.... The quality that makes the tracks so unrealistic, rounded, not conforming to the wheels, is called "memory".... The tracks are molded flat, and want to stay that way. So when you force them around the wheels, they want to make a circle. (Look at pics of the real 1/2track....) But you can carefully OVER-bend them to fit around the wheels much better. It's much easier to do, than to explain in words here! Also, the Tamiya tracks are slightly too long. Cutting off the end connectors shortens them perfectly. The Dragon 1/2 tracks look much better in this area....
I no longer use any solvent based paints. A good water-based acrylic (Ammo Atom or AK 3G) can be thinned with tap water for colouring straps and I've found that by keeping it thin, you can apply several coats of different tones for a realistic look.
As a Mechanized Infantryman from back in the day, you are 100% correct that gear HAS to be strapped down, else it goes flying off. The only exception was we were able to "wedge" several full ammo cans for the .50 around the TC's cupola on our M113's and they would stay put, but that was it. Inside and out, everything was strapped in/on. Very nice video, Sir. Subbed.
Returning the compliments! Thank you for sharing your experience, sir. I rarely get comments from first-person insight.
I couldn’t have found your channel at a better time. This is exactly what I needed thank you so much. I also subscribed.
Thanks, mate! So happy and glad that its useful.
Really like the way you take a mediocre kit and turn it into something special. Well done. Thanks. 👍👍👍👍
Oh thanks, Chris. I try!
Cool weathering.
Thank you!
Very nice details, fantastic 👌
Thank you, SKmodelbuilding!
Great idea and will save money on expensive etched brass. Thanks!
Absolutely, David!
Cracking job, superb details and weathering...I do like the "attachment technique"!
Much thanks for your comments, Phil!
Very good instructional video - saved in my "steal this!" RUclips folder 😊
Thank you, Jeff. Glad that you like it!
You do superb work . . . particularly in those minute details that add volumes to how interesting it looks as well as authenticity. It is so helpful that you share your techniques and tips with your YT channel! Thank you!
I am glad you find it useful and I hope I can share more on this channel. Thank you!
Your point is valid, far too many modelers forget that detail. Great demonstration. Thanks
Thank you! I am glad you like it.
Looks great 👍
Thanks, mate!
It's a good tutorial that's easy understanding. Cheers, NOB from Japan
Thank you! I just subscribed to your channel. Great stuff you have there.
You make it look so easy, Nice job
Thanks for the compliments!
Great video - new subscriber!
Much appreciated and thank you, Jim!
Awesome technique
Thank you!
Excellent
Thank you!
They look great👍
Thank you, Eric!
VERY EXCELLENT WORK!....except for those tracks!....
The quality that makes the tracks so unrealistic, rounded, not conforming to the wheels, is called "memory".... The tracks are molded flat, and want to stay that way.
So when you force them around the wheels, they want to make a circle. (Look at pics of the real 1/2track....)
But you can carefully OVER-bend them to fit around the wheels much better.
It's much easier to do, than to explain in words here! Also, the Tamiya tracks are slightly too long. Cutting off the end connectors shortens them perfectly.
The Dragon 1/2 tracks look much better in this area....
Agree, Dragon version is way better. I have another Tamiya halftrack and i will try your track tips on that build. Thanks!
I no longer use any solvent based paints. A good water-based acrylic (Ammo Atom or AK 3G) can be thinned with tap water for colouring straps and I've found that by keeping it thin, you can apply several coats of different tones for a realistic look.
Thats a great alternative, Phil! Water base paints are less toxic and less smelly too.
Also . Any retarder , i use Vallejo, and water will make tamiya paints , brush paint like Vallejo or ak gen 3 . M
@@MartinSparks-ef9gr good to know! Always looking for alternatives. If I can cut the smelliness the better
Far too fiddly .
🫰🫰