Awesome! I can't believe there is so much available for the Stampede and Bigfoot. The skid plates seem like a great upgrade. You did a spectacular job explaining everything. 👍👍
I had my Slash 2wd for almost 4 years and I bash the hell out of it a lot over the 4 years and haven’t broken one single part on it lmao. Just recently got the BigFoot Stampede and I’ll be upgrading them with some RPMs. I know the Stampede have some weaknesses just like what you said lol
Hey bro went to the hobby shop the other day and checked out on the prices of all them upgrades pretty inexpensive was shocked 🐢🐢👍😱😱😱😱😱 thanks again for your video man
I noticed that the channel was called "RC Genius"....if that were the case you would know aluminum is an incredibly soft metal that loses it's structural integrity once it suffers the smallest of bends. In addition, aluminum does not absorb energy the way plastic does, so aluminum will transfer kinetic energy from an impact and transfer it to the next plastic piece...often shattering it in the process. The only time you should use aluminum is if you are going to the track and want to shave some weight. But you guys are geniuses and already knew that
While that might be true, I have NEVER broken an aluminum product. Keep in mind that I mostly upgraded to aluminum, in areas of the truck that I usually broke plastic. But I’ve been running these aluminum upgrades for almost 4 years, and never a breakage. Thanks for your input.
I did look into the Traxxas aluminum tie rods, but all the reviews said they were weaker than the plastic ones. Is this true? Let me know if you know, but thanks!
You should consider putting a parts list in your description and maybe a link to a reputable retailer that you use for your parts other than that your video is good and detailed as well as good video and sound quality... Keep it up man
Just a thought. You can as I have for many uses use any Road MPH sign 5025 aluminum alloy sheet wich is plenty strong amd extremely light for these applications. If you have the skill set you can draw up your parts cut with a simple jig saw drill holes Works well in a pinch or permanent parts.
Yeah Ive been using it for fpv race drone top and bottom plates full frames. its much more resistant to crashes then even carbon in some situations. I was out visiting family who run these rc cars. We took a sign and ued it for some parts on his susspention and frame for traxxis Bigfoot and tmaxx
@@TheRCGenius when u flex the full sheet sign you think oh this isn't strong enough, but when you cut small parts it's rock solid. Use cheep hand oporation jig saw roughly 50 to 100 bucks. Worth every penny , 2 dollar carbide blade, drill holes for access points to change direction for jig saw. That's it. Learn to use a mic, square, and protractor. Simple as that. You'll get better as learn
Can't use regular alluminum. it's too soft It has to be an alloy. 5025 is about middle of road aerospace grade alloy. Federal and local municipal code orders all signs be made of atleast 5025 grade alloy. Not many know this but I do working in the feild
Great looking trucks. 👍How do the gears hold up? I like RPM parts, they've worked well for me. My main concern with aluminum arms is the stress on the chassis/gear box.
Thank you! Considering all of the bashing I do, I really don't strip any gears. Maybe once in a while, if I do like a 20+ft jump, which I have in the past, I will knock the spur gear away from the pinion. However, that's just about it! I've only ever had to replace 1 chassis, and that was unrelated to any aluminum parts. I like RPM, their A-arms have been a great choice for me. Thanks for watching!
I have the skully with the Titan 12-turn 550 motor, can I run a 3s lipo on it and keep and eye on motor temp? Thank you for your time and effort 🤜🏻💥🤛🏻✌🏻
Nic Mc as far as I know, the skully can handle a 2s LiPo. A 3s with 11v May be too powerful for the stock electronics. I would just do some research about it before you do it. But good luck! 😁👍
dan rasmussen that’s a great idea! I will get to work on that. I would only be able to do the stampede and slash because those are the ones I own. Thanks for the suggestion!!
Here is the link for the skid plates, these are silver, but they have other colors. www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p_prodid=16170#.XRih9flKg3g www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p_prodid=16176&p_catid=109#.XRii7_lKg3g
I've never had an RPM product break on me before either. Breaking is not an issue with them, it's the fit and finish of some of there products. Lately, the last three products I've bought from them, fit like shit. Wonder what's been going on with them.
Since my upgrade to brushless with my Traxxas skully, I have been breaking those drive shaft end yokes, do you know of any cheap metal ones that I can get in the UK?
Hey RC Genius, where the body for the red stampede in the intro. And aluminum isnt good for bashing because the energy from a crash will go to another part. For example, if you get an aluminum a-arm and crash, the energy will go to the bulkhead.
RPM is super bendy and very durable. I use them for parts that take impacts and I'd rather those break vs something worse lets say the chassis or shock tower vs a control arm
Great video but one problem. Camber links break more than any part. And dont get aluminum for them. Get rmp. Rom wont break but allow give that wont make other parts break from the stiffness an aluminum camberlink part would cause. Very important
you should upgrade to brushless before upgrading all that. my first hobby rc was the wheelie king then brushless stampede and front a arms faild me the most.
Some of them yes. But not all. The shocks will be the same. The castor blocks are not. If you go on Integy, or any parts site for that matter, and put the type of vehicle you have in the sorted search, you will find the compatible parts.
Yes they are plastic and yes they don't look as good as aluminum, but they sure can take a beating. Almost impossible to break them but I think they are under warranty if you do
@@daplana1011 ? I was just trying to be helpful, and people can still see comments after you make them? And how was I supposed to know you quit the hobby? Go play some more fnaf to get your 30 views
Super Aiden Link productions thanks for the comment! These aluminum A-arms actually aren’t that heavy. They are drilled out in the center to reduce weight. Thank you for watching!
How? Lol. Get a brushless and never look back. Brushed is great for plenty of things, but the difference in power is night and day. Sorry for reiterating what I'm sure you've heard probably 100 times before. Cheers. 😉
Aluminum a arms are trash af there more for looks. But they suck cuz once u crash they bend hella. Get rpm plastic arms there flex is insane they literally never break
I do have some RPM’s, and I agree they are great. However, I’ve had the aluminum arms for years, and I’ve never had a breakage yet. I bash pretty hard too 🤟
Aluminum A Arms are absolutely the worst choice possible. The proline a arms are the best plastics. Aluminum a arms trash the bulkhead and transmission housing. Always create the weakest link to the plastics. Rpm doesn't break because they are 100% nylon and are similar to driving a wet noodle. They dont break but they provide no stiffness. Casters and hub carriers are fine in aluminum. But never link aluminum a arms to an aluminum bulkhead. A arms and hinge pins are what you want to break not bulkheads and trans housings. Aluminum a arms are the first amateur upgrades. All steel links are good better are titanium links. Steel and titanium are always best over aluminum but often you need to fabricate them yourself and few have that time or machining skills. Anyway, save yourself some money and stay away from aluminum a arms.
mainly dialogue, lots of um and uh pauses. not a big deal but maybe a couple takes would help. but i don’t make videos so, you’re doing better than me😂
Awesome! I can't believe there is so much available for the Stampede and Bigfoot. The skid plates seem like a great upgrade. You did a spectacular job explaining everything. 👍👍
I would say the best plastic parts would have to be rpm by far
I agree, they are great!
Agreed. Definitely worth the money
Aluminum isnt that smart for winter they get cold or frozen and snap or break in other ways!
Man I just bought a stampede and can’t even drive it no more than 30 mins at a time without something breaking.
Welcome to the rc world I guess
I had my Slash 2wd for almost 4 years and I bash the hell out of it a lot over the 4 years and haven’t broken one single part on it lmao. Just recently got the BigFoot Stampede and I’ll be upgrading them with some RPMs. I know the Stampede have some weaknesses just like what you said lol
I've had my Stampede for years and the only part I've had to replaced was a spur gear
"This" and "This" lol. Thanks for the specificity. Wiser words have never been spoken lol.
Awesome video!!!! Big help! I just bought an Associated B6.2. Wish you had one for that too!!! But thank you. Awesome!!!!
I’m glad you found it helpful!
also a metal steering servo. stripped mine out the first week
hunter Creed same
Drive better haha
@@19Herofade92 lol
Haha not even 15 mins with mine and the servo was fucked. I replaced it with a hexfly 25g any opinions?
@@sethwalsh8095 i dont think ive tried a hexfly
Definitely need aluminum parts for my stampede good video
The RC CAR Pro they are great! Thanks for stopping by!
Hey thanks for the information man going to pick up a stampede soon and was wondering where some of the weak spots were thanks again bro 🐢🐢👍
You're welcome! Glad to hear that ;)
Hey bro went to the hobby shop the other day and checked out on the prices of all them upgrades pretty inexpensive was shocked 🐢🐢👍😱😱😱😱😱 thanks again for your video man
Nice video 👍 aluminum accent color look really good
Thank you! I think so too! Thanks for watching ;)
I noticed that the channel was called "RC Genius"....if that were the case you would know aluminum is an incredibly soft metal that loses it's structural integrity once it suffers the smallest of bends. In addition, aluminum does not absorb energy the way plastic does, so aluminum will transfer kinetic energy from an impact and transfer it to the next plastic piece...often shattering it in the process. The only time you should use aluminum is if you are going to the track and want to shave some weight. But you guys are geniuses and already knew that
While that might be true, I have NEVER broken an aluminum product. Keep in mind that I mostly upgraded to aluminum, in areas of the truck that I usually broke plastic. But I’ve been running these aluminum upgrades for almost 4 years, and never a breakage. Thanks for your input.
my own opinion you should have went with RPM a arms and a metal bulkhead metal tie rods everything else looks good nice build
I did look into the Traxxas aluminum tie rods, but all the reviews said they were weaker than the plastic ones. Is this true? Let me know if you know, but thanks!
You should consider putting a parts list in your description and maybe a link to a reputable retailer that you use for your parts other than that your video is good and detailed as well as good video and sound quality... Keep it up man
That's a good idea. Thank you for the support!
Just a thought. You can as I have for many uses use any Road MPH sign 5025 aluminum alloy sheet wich is plenty strong amd extremely light for these applications. If you have the skill set you can draw up your parts cut with a simple jig saw drill holes
Works well in a pinch or permanent parts.
That's interesting! Never knew that, thanks for sharing!
Yeah Ive been using it for fpv race drone top and bottom plates full frames. its much more resistant to crashes then even carbon in some situations. I was out visiting family who run these rc cars. We took a sign and ued it for some parts on his susspention and frame for traxxis Bigfoot and tmaxx
@@TheRCGenius when u flex the full sheet sign you think oh this isn't strong enough, but when you cut small parts it's rock solid. Use cheep hand oporation jig saw roughly 50 to 100 bucks. Worth every penny , 2 dollar carbide blade, drill holes for access points to change direction for jig saw. That's it. Learn to use a mic, square, and protractor. Simple as that. You'll get better as learn
Can't use regular alluminum. it's too soft
It has to be an alloy. 5025 is about middle of road aerospace grade alloy. Federal and local municipal code orders all signs be made of atleast 5025 grade alloy. Not many know this but I do working in the feild
Great looking trucks. 👍How do the gears hold up?
I like RPM parts, they've worked well for me. My main concern with aluminum arms is the stress on the chassis/gear box.
Thank you! Considering all of the bashing I do, I really don't strip any gears. Maybe once in a while, if I do like a 20+ft jump, which I have in the past, I will knock the spur gear away from the pinion. However, that's just about it! I've only ever had to replace 1 chassis, and that was unrelated to any aluminum parts. I like RPM, their A-arms have been a great choice for me. Thanks for watching!
@@TheRCGenius that's good to here. Gears and drive train parts are my biggest worry. Spur gears are expendable and I've stripped a few myself.
Looking good man. I like it👍👍
Thanks a lot! I appreciate it!
I just bought the Traxxas Stampede VXL two-wheel drive what is the best aluminum upgrade pack packages
Nice rides
I have the skully with the Titan 12-turn 550 motor, can I run a 3s lipo on it and keep and eye on motor temp? Thank you for your time and effort 🤜🏻💥🤛🏻✌🏻
Nic Mc as far as I know, the skully can handle a 2s LiPo. A 3s with 11v May be too powerful for the stock electronics. I would just do some research about it before you do it. But good luck! 😁👍
@@TheRCGenius my buddy says my ESC can handle 3s just wondering about the motor 😕🤷🏼♂️
The XL-5 should only run NiMH and 2s Lipos.. I tried a 3s one time and the motor was really sparking up..
just earned a new sub bro good vid
Thank you!
Plz do a video on parts that are interchangeable between slash stampede and the rustler keep up the great videos
dan rasmussen that’s a great idea! I will get to work on that. I would only be able to do the stampede and slash because those are the ones I own. Thanks for the suggestion!!
dan rasmussen, I have some videos like that on my channel!
How do I change my aluminum knuckles I can't get the axle out
What bumpers are those?!? I’ve been looking for an aluminum set up
The bumpers are actually stock, I just spray painted them red. Not sure if there are aluminum bumpers in that style.
What do you think about aluminium shock towers front and back
winnrscircle yes, those are good upgrades. These shocks on my truck came with those, but definitely a good choice!
winnrscircle I just realized you meant shock towers not caps. And those are fine too. But a little less necessary.
What body mounts are they
doing this to my Bigfoot integey parts are hard to get waited forever to get my rear arms in I emailed them several times and got no response
Any chance you have the link for the aluminum skid plates? I’ve broken mine a few times so would like to make the jump to aluminum
Here is the link for the skid plates, these are silver, but they have other colors.
www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p_prodid=16170#.XRih9flKg3g
www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p_prodid=16176&p_catid=109#.XRii7_lKg3g
Wow thanks sooo much for the super fast reply
Any links to get the parts?
I've never had an RPM product break on me before either. Breaking is not an issue with them, it's the fit and finish of some of there products. Lately, the last three products I've bought from them, fit like shit. Wonder what's been going on with them.
Since my upgrade to brushless with my Traxxas skully, I have been breaking those drive shaft end yokes, do you know of any cheap metal ones that I can get in the UK?
Isaac Lyons well, integy makes aluminum ones. I don’t know what the price is, as I don’t have them.
The RC Genius, OK thanks
Te first parts I replaced were the caster block and the steering block
Good choice!
TMC Gaming same here but I’m missing the screw that attached the camber link to the caster block
Hey RC Genius, where the body for the red stampede in the intro. And aluminum isnt good for bashing because the energy from a crash will go to another part. For example, if you get an aluminum a-arm and crash, the energy will go to the bulkhead.
What length shocks are on the blue one to make it ride lower
I don’t remember the actual length. But they are Integy aluminum shocks for stampede 2WD.
are front metal a arms good for a traxxas 2wd vxl?
Yes they will work.
I heard that helion had gone out of business
I'm your 1200 th subscriber lol
Thanks buddy!
RPM is super bendy and very durable. I use them for parts that take impacts and I'd rather those break vs something worse lets say the chassis or shock tower vs a control arm
Awesome!
Isaac Lyons thank you!!
The RC Genius,your welcome!
Make iT brushless first, that is the best upgrade
Great video but one problem. Camber links break more than any part. And dont get aluminum for them. Get rmp. Rom wont break but allow give that wont make other parts break from the stiffness an aluminum camberlink part would cause. Very important
I use RPM parts and my Stampede just won't break.
you should upgrade to brushless before upgrading all that. my first hobby rc was the wheelie king then brushless stampede and front a arms faild me the most.
Do all these parts go on the 4wd version
Some of them yes. But not all. The shocks will be the same. The castor blocks are not. If you go on Integy, or any parts site for that matter, and put the type of vehicle you have in the sorted search, you will find the compatible parts.
@@TheRCGenius ok thank you very much
What shocks do you have
Helion full aluminum shocks for Stampede 2WD/4x4.
believe it or not i actually broke my gearbox housing idk how i was taking it apart and i saw it was broken
Stampedes are such beasts I just wish they could do backflips easier
i personally like integy. i dont like rpm that much theyre only plastic and it doesnt look as good
Yes they are plastic and yes they don't look as good as aluminum, but they sure can take a beating. Almost impossible to break them but I think they are under warranty if you do
@@brysonkuhn3290 it's been almost two years I dont have rc anymore you dont need to reply
@@daplana1011 ? I was just trying to be helpful, and people can still see comments after you make them? And how was I supposed to know you quit the hobby? Go play some more fnaf to get your 30 views
@@brysonkuhn3290 ok
Why would you keep it brushed?!
R A F A E L just a personal preference 😉👍
Dude, I broke 2 a arms twice in a matter of 2 weeks, lol. How'd you make it 2 years breaking only 2? You a lucky man.
Well that is something! lol. I still have the same ones on there, and they're great!
I've made it two years and never broken one yet!
For aluminum everything but the aarms just get rpm, aluminum ones are to heavy, in my opinion.
Super Aiden Link productions thanks for the comment! These aluminum A-arms actually aren’t that heavy. They are drilled out in the center to reduce weight. Thank you for watching!
Aluminum a arms is just a bad idea. Learned from experience. 😉
aluminum a arms is a nono, especially that integy trash. anything that moves or gets hit a lot shouldn't be aluminum, unless its strictly a street car
Been in the hobby for 4 years but still is a brushed boi
How? Lol. Get a brushless and never look back. Brushed is great for plenty of things, but the difference in power is night and day. Sorry for reiterating what I'm sure you've heard probably 100 times before. Cheers. 😉
Bro got more money than sense, how on earth does a brushed Stampede, need all that aluminum?
Bashing without the protective body probably not the smartest of ideas
Aluminum a arms are trash af there more for looks. But they suck cuz once u crash they bend hella. Get rpm plastic arms there flex is insane they literally never break
I do have some RPM’s, and I agree they are great. However, I’ve had the aluminum arms for years, and I’ve never had a breakage yet. I bash pretty hard too 🤟
I don’t have a stampede but I have a slash 2 wd and stampede is like slash
Please don’t laugh at my name
Door gaming cool man! No worries! 😁👍
The RC Genius haha
Aluminum A Arms are absolutely the worst choice possible. The proline a arms are the best plastics. Aluminum a arms trash the bulkhead and transmission housing. Always create the weakest link to the plastics. Rpm doesn't break because they are 100% nylon and are similar to driving a wet noodle. They dont break but they provide no stiffness. Casters and hub carriers are fine in aluminum. But never link aluminum a arms to an aluminum bulkhead. A arms and hinge pins are what you want to break not bulkheads and trans housings. Aluminum a arms are the first amateur upgrades. All steel links are good better are titanium links. Steel and titanium are always best over aluminum but often you need to fabricate them yourself and few have that time or machining skills. Anyway, save yourself some money and stay away from aluminum a arms.
Everything that you said is WRONG!!!!
I’m curious how so? I’m glad to hear your opinion.
An rc genius would buy aluminum driveshafts. Why buy 3 of the same truck and why not spend the money on a better truck that's brushless/not a traxxas?
very hard to watch...
__ im0nfarm3r0nly May I ask how so?
mainly dialogue, lots of um and uh pauses. not a big deal but maybe a couple takes would help. but i don’t make videos so, you’re doing better than me😂
Oh god not integy! Integy is trash go with rpm
I dont want plastic though
Calls himself rc-genius and then goes on to install aluminium h-arms, the most stupid "down"grade there possibly is. Lmao
ZERO reason for the MUSIC ! ! !
Alluminum arms are terrible idea