I'm a 33 year HVAC professional who has been singing the superiority of Stay Bright 8 over brazing for most applications, including the few situations where brazing excels. This the best video yet about these applications and usages. RUclips is a national treasure, but too many are talking out of their arse, even sincerely. You are a true pro.
Thank you! Still haven't had an issue using it. I find that most people who talk bad about it have never used it or have heard from a friend of a.freond.of a cousin that it doesn't work.
The best lesson on soldering that I have seen anywhere. You are a true professor and professional. Great introduction, great examples, a great summation. Overall this was a presentation that kept my attention from beginning to end. Your passion is encouraging. You have proven your case. Thank you so much. You’ve given me confidence to tackle my DIY project.
Just installed a mini split. Cut off and threw away all flares and soldered everything. The only two flares left are by the service port. Works like a charm, no leaks, no problems. I spent a small fortune on all sort of bs for checking leaks, flaring and reflaring. I`m super glad I found your clip my man. Thank you so much for convincing me and saving TON of headache with those crazy flares. My problems have been SEALED once and for all.
Hello I installed mini split also do you have pics of your connections? Or can describe how u joined the pipes and what did u do for the brass connections on the main unit?
I'm a DIYer and dreading to learn brazing just for a few maintenance joints I have to do. This was the best video on HVAC piping I have ever seen. Thanks.
I just realized why am unable to learn from people. Most teachers just tell you to do this or do that but then never say, explain, show you why. I see now I needed the WHY, and you sire showed me the WHY in great detail. So much detail that it sunk in. One of the best how-to videos I ever watched.
I gotta tell you, it is rare for me to watch an hour long of anything in RUclips. I went through this whole video and it felt like 20 minutes, not only did I find it informative, I found it also entertaining. I think you proved your point quite elegantly and eloquently. For what is worth you get a thumbs up and subscription from me
Great instructional video 💯 I am a plumber but for a few years prior to the re-claimers and new HVAC gases were mandatory. I like that you mentioned open mesh cleaning cloth compared to sand paper, open mesh is the best to use. If I remember correctly, the hottest part of a torch is the sharp blue point, I’ve used Mapp gas, B tanks and Turbo torches, the MC tank is a handy option for tight spaces. Whenever I had to do 4” DWV copper pipe, I sometimes used 2 torches or would walk the solder around the pipe, but back then for waste lines 50/50 was allowed which helped with big pipes, but I would often try to cap it with 95/5, just an added layer of protection. Using silver stick soldering was part of my practical test. It’s an acquired skill that takes time to master. Another part of your video I appreciated was the difference between plumbers sizes and HVAC pipe and fittings along with the difference between M, L, & K copper. Despite years of working in my trade I still find I can still learn from Trade videos such as your video 👍
I've been working in construction for over 45 years & done a bit of brazing & a lot of soldering, & this video really helps me to understand what I've been doing wrong (& right). I couldn't help but think that there are some A/C men out there disliking you for letting have the info to improve our skills, kind of like a person telling the magician's secretes make the illusionist angry. Keep up the good work, & Thanks for the upload.
Thanks for making this, it was very informative. I'm a professional Plumber and yes, we are typically taught to flux the inside of fittings as well as the cleaned pipe - and with a capillary straight coupler like the one you soldered, in the vertical position, internal fluxing of the fitting allows the liquid solder to bridge the gap between the pipes (caused by the pipe stop) so that both ends of the fitting can be sweated in one operation. The difference is that any remaining internal flux residues can be flushed out with water during commissioning, however this is a real concern in gas pipework since active flux remaining inside the joint cannot be flushed and does corrode the copper over time. Usually the pipe wall thickness is sufficient that the corrosion is only cosmetic, however I have seen chunks of green flux/copper salts ending up in strainers or even jet nozzles, so your point is well made. So long as you rotate the fluxed fitting before heating, there should be sufficient transfer between the pipe surface and the fitting bore. Thanks again for the tips on brazing, that's a useful video that you made!!
When people teach, and don't work so hard to simply entertain-we learn true methods; successfully. Thank you! I am planning on repairing plumbing on my own; as well as creating projects; you have saved me hours of regret!
Mate i have watched a lot of soldering videos over the last 4 or 5 weeks and I always come back to your video, your a good teacher and I just followed what you said, and it worked... thanks a lot.
50:42 man that was from inside the pipe! but we can say nitrogen helps a lot with the oxidization but not 100%, there is still some oxidization in the line. 1:02.11. but after all great video, these videos help a lot to many people. Stay Brite #8 is the boss here
This one of the rare 1 hour video that I don't FF, got a few good pointers mostly related to refrigeration... And having your appreciation of the different procedures was a plus... Good video, thanks...
pierre beaudry I agree 100%. Great video! Almost everything you need to know about brazing vs soldering in one video demonstration. I've wanted to see this sort of thing for a long time - great detailed explanation & demos. Thanks for sharing this with us.. Much appreciated :)
I just put my first A/C unit in. I used the #8 because I saw videos on the reliability, the limitations and the advantages. I was a bit intimidated by brazing as I was concerned about damaging the system with the heat. Your video has alleviated my concerns so Thank you sir.
You totally convinced me and I've been using Stay Brite 8 now on my high pressure HVACR applications and couldn't be happier. It's nice to not have to worry about nitrogen flow and have a shiny copper pipe when it's done. Also it requires lower heat so less chance of cooking valves and other refrigeration parts like filter driers (which most techs notoriously destroy the internals of without even realizing it).
Im not worried about nitrogen purge as an extra step as Im always doing a nitrogen pressure test immediately after brazing anyways. I havent convinced myself to use staybright 8 on anything over 100psi. I have a new roll in my truck, never used it lol. Id probably use it on low pressure chillers, but then again Id just use whatever else instead as I know those will work.
@@FrenchBeefCDN I feel the same way. I don't want to have to use flux, I don't trust soft solder under those pressures. I would flow nitrogen, even if I did use Stay-brite 8. I will be purging it anyways. No where near as strong as a Harris Sil fos 15 brazing.
Pressure test does nothing to prevent or get rid of the oxidation on the inside of the pipe it actually prevents the air inside the pipe that causes the oxidation from escaping the system during the brazing process which is not helpful to the system the nitrogen purge is to help with pushing the dirty air from the inside of the system during the brazing process the pressure prevents the dirt in the air from sticking to the pipes interior. So you should always purge nitrogen when brazing. The reason for less oxidation with the solder is because the dirt is not as burnt like it is when using higher temperatures used in brazing. Oxidation is the burnt molecules in the air in the pipe. Thus...ash
I was just looking for some quick tips/tricks while searching for aluminum brazing. Clicked this, thought "I ain't got an hour for one video", ended up watching the whole thing. Very informative
Absolutely huge information for my unexpected chiller repair needs. You just downloaded 16 years of experience that will make all the difference. Thank you Sir.
Been using Stay Bright products for 30 years, never have I had a solder joint failure, whether on low pressure side or high side of system. It's definitely the way to go. I did some research on integrity of tubing and failure pressures and discovered exactly what you have explained. This solder will and does hold up to the pressures and heat loads in the environment that it is used in. It's easier to use, quicker to set up and make the joint, thus more efficient for installers and repairs, does not require nitrogen purge, whats not to like. I also clean all fittings before brazing so that's not an issue. I prefer the liquid flux, but that's just preference. Great video by the way, and for those of you that haven't tried or considered trying soft solder, take a look on-line for the data and spec's on this product, and it may change your mind.
A man after my own heart. I've been a proponent of Stay Brite for years without a problem. Even before the #8 came out. We've put grocery stores in with it. After the joint is soldered you haven't fatigued the metal like you will with Sil-Fos. When you've got your head in an ice machine replacing a leaking accumulator or TXV you really appreciate it. Tech schools teach Sil-Fos and that's what everyone learns....even inspectors. They don't know the difference between Stay Brite and 50/50.......it's plumbing solder to them. Great instructional vid........
You, sir, should be teaching :-) You managed to pack in this one hour the most important things one normally learns after years in the trade, even I after decades in Construction learned a few things myself. It was a joy to watch, I tip my hat to you, sir!
Yeah I have a friend that has been in construction for a long long time and he's not really into aesthetics plus he gets paid by the hour not by the unit so yeah it is slightly a different world a handyman's work has to look good as well as work good and engineer can hide this hide that hide the other as long as it works good
In my opinion this video is spot on! Just did a DIY a-coil replacement and chose to use Stay Brite 8 after watching this. The sil-phos braze joint to the old a-coil made the copper so soft my tubing cutter would just crush the tube. Had to cut it with a hacksaw. This verifies the high degree of tempering and loss of copper strength from high temp brazing. My soldering process with Stay Brite 8 went as smooth as possible. Probably took 15 seconds for a 7/8 suction connection. No messing around with inert gas purge and excessive cool wrapping of nearby fittings.
Great video. Good to show the cut-a-ways on how dirty the inside of the pipe is. I've been using stay-brite 8 for last 5-6 years. It's the only way to go. No oxidation, stronger copper and less chance of heating valves too much.
I have been doing commercial hvac for about 8 years now. We only use stay bright 8 and a turbo torch for all of our copper to copper connections and have never had a failure on anything from 410a r22 407c 134a. The part most guys do not like about the soldering is that they have to meticulously clean and flux every joint to assure a good solid connection. If you open up a unit look at the factory joints you would be surprised that most manufacturers use silver solder for their joints. Just pay attention to how clean and how much flux you are putting on
I agree. Most people don't like to clean. I clean everything though. Even my braze joints. Makes a nice clean surface free of oil and other trash. I can say though the one place brazing comes into its own is on loose fitting joints or gaps and when the copper is pitted as in the case of an evaperator on a refrigerator.
Dude I installed a used condenser unit today to help a friend and had to call a local shop to get a piston orface. He told me their new installs 6 out of 10 they're replacing txv valves and how they're junk. I'm like thats odd. So I asked him are they flowing nitrogen? He said no. Well there ya go brother. So I showed him your video part about why you should and the stay bright 8. He wrote down your RUclips information. Spreading the love brother. Peace from NC
Just a minor correction: when you are brazing, it isn't the heat that cleans the copper pipe, it is the reducing action of the fuel-rich flame. Turbo torches are designed to run slightly fuel rich. When using an oxy-acetylene rig, the flame should always be adjusted slightly to the reducing (aka carburizing) side. In either case, the carbon monoxide in the fuel rich flame reacts with the heated copper oxide, reducing it to pure copper and CO2. My chemistry is a bit rusty but the reaction is CuO + CO -> Cu + CO2. My main reason for mentioning this is for the guys using OAC rigs - you gotta run the flame slightly fuel-rich or you won't get the cleaning effect. The oxide also has to be hot enough to react, which is why this only works at brazing temps and not when soldering. [/professor mode] Also, I completely agree with the use of Stay Brite and Stay Brite 8 for AC and refrigeration lines. Done properly it is as stronger than brazed copper, resists vibration better, and won't contaminate the system. I keep both versions handy. I use the regular Stay Brite for tight fitups (i.e. TXV's) and the Stay Brite 8 for loose fitups (most regular copper fittings).
@ace toxic damnnnn! Greenman here. Talk to me, brother! That's what I am talking about! Let that OCD kick in! Just kidding about OCD. The specs and standards you mentioned...is black belt brazing, hi-yaah! Sooo, how the hell can I hone my awareness and touch to accomplish those specs? I am digging the factory bead/joint. I figure I'd like to learn that way versus acquiring a bunch of bad habits and then have to be rid of them.
perfect! Handy & Harmon actually developed the "slightly reducing flame" or "long tail" flame for their Silfos product. Its in their product literature. peace brother.
Thoroughly enjoyed this video very much!! I work on a lot of new construction lease ups as a maintenance supervisor and you wouldn’t or would! believe the nightmares I’ve seen with these systems being roughed in. Most installers have never even heard of reducers and crimp and it annoys the hell out of me. Thank you for taking the time to make this video!
Resin core flux solder has been my favourite way to join copper to copper for 20+ years while all my work buddies are running around organising heavy bottles of gas regulators blablabla me and my bernzomatic have done the job with an inch of resin core or less yet they shake their heads in disbelief of what their eyes see. The only place I use silver brazing is steel and close to compressors. nice vid🖒
I started in the HVAC trade in 1974 in the US Army. I then got out and continued doing HVAC. I started using regular solder, I've used different kinds of solder, different brands, whatever is cheap since the early 1990s. I've never had an issue with the solder joints. Never.
Great video! I always use Oxygen/Acetylene torches on my braze/silver solder joints instead of the "Turbo-Torch". Why? Get the heat on fast, then get it off fast. This equals less oxidation in the copper and maintains a stronger joint while maintaining the integrity of the copper. Simply put, it lasts longer. Rose-bud tips and dual tips are a must in brazing or silver soldering larger joints. Smaller joints, I still use and oxy/acyt torch. Get the heat where you need it and get it off quickly. The rest of what you've said is pretty much on par to what I teach new recruits. I DO NOT teach soft soldered joints on refrigeration. I only teach brazed or silver soldered joints, for various reasons. I like you have been doing this for some time. For me, since 1985. I've found soft soldered joints to fail before brazed or silver soldered joints and can last 30 years, while soft soldered joints only last about 5-10 years.
I don't understand why people try to avoid brazing. After some exercises and practice both of operations are quite simple and take the same time (brazing even faster especially with oxy/acytelen torch (i use oxy/propene because acytelen security issues and problems with logistics and prices in my country). And as you say years of practice and observations show that brazing very reliable 30 years even 50 years old machines and no problems! Time prove viability. Only drawback IMHO is refueling oxygen tanks and fuel tanks (oxygen much more often). And of course local codes that regulate security issues. Brazing is cheapest way of cooper joining in refrigeration (someone would say pressfittings flaring fittings etc. No doubt it is quite reliable but much more costly! And IMHO it should be used when working with open flame is impossible or problematical) Thank you for yours mature opinion! Excuse me for my English
I have seen so many people braze because they don’t know how to properly solder. Been building refer systems for 30 years with Stay-brite. With no leaks. Great solder
I watched this video because I am plumbing in an air compressor with copper pipes. I am plumbing the compressor to the tank and it gets really hot. I had no idea what solder to use. This video helped answered my question for my use. I actually measured the temperature of the exhaust line on a like unit. I determined it gets as hot as 253 degrees F. My solder has a melting point 419 degrees F and a tensile strength of 6950 psi. I'm going to use it because it is cheap and easy to solder with. Thanks Halligan142 for a great video!
Hey, I just gave you an hour of my life Greg - and I'm glad I did! Saved me months of learning the hard way. Thanks for taking the time to walk us through all this useful info. A very compelling case for doing things right with soft solder. YOU Sir, should be a lawyer!
Nice metal lathe ! Nice to see a fellow HVAC-R guy who has solid work ethics and takes pride in their workmanship. Greetings from Indianapolis Indiana 👋
Another vote for Stay-Brite 8. All the counterpoints against it are baseless. Its cleaner and leaves the pipe stronger. Been using on 410a without any issues. Thanks for the video.
Excellent camera work. It made all the difference. I think my soldering will improve thanks to all your tips. I also used to wipe the joint when it was hot because it looked neater but not anymore. Thankfully I'm not a plumber just a hobbiest that likes to tinker. Cheers from Canberra, Australia.
I have been using Stay-brite 8 for years installing residential Air Conditioning. Never had a leak and is easier to used. I used the liquit stay clean instead of the paste. I liked better. Used on TXV, and it works really great. Is up to you, if you want to use Stay-brite 8, or braze.
what a breath of fresh air..... so nice and, unfortunately so rare, to find people who truely know their shit.... or who really even give a shit enough to even care to know their shit like this. To me, that speaks volumes about the true measure of ones pride in their doings. 2 thumbs up to you sir.
All though I do not do any refrigeration work but a Lot of plumbing this is by far the best video I have ever seen on soldering and brazing and the proper use of flux with GREAT examples of why and why not--- just an OUTSTANDING good video!! I think if anyone who has a need to solder or braze should watch this video! A plus and Two thumbs up Sir Thanks for posting it
Kind of difficult to squeeze a compliment out of me on this type of video, but just let me say - OUTSTANDING! Justifying exactly why you'll use certain methods and going into detail about product specs and situations makes all the difference in the usefulness of your demonstration. Perhaps industry pros already know this stuff, but if not they should be paying attention. Thanks.
I've been tossing around the idea of plumbing air lines in my basement. The hour I spent watching this surely saved my many more hours of scratching my head trying to figure out how to do it alone!...
This is special plastic. Not PVC. Never run compressed air in PVC. I'm not a fan of plastic pipe for domestic water but thats the way things are going. Just finished a 16 story condo project in Long Beach Ca. All domestic water under 2 inches was done in CPVC.
Hello, I'm a current HVAC college student trying desperately to learn the trade. I have much trouble learning it so having youtube to turn to and videos like this help me out greatly. Thanks for the time and effort you put into these videos. You have just earned another sub.
finally found somebody that agrees with what i been saying to friend techs in the hvac that would not beleive what i was saying ! cause i was a welder certified for over 30 years before i went to HVAC school and over 18 years in that ! thank you stick with it i am so possitive about what your trying to teach here ,,,,,take care
Great video, I used stay brite a lot at my old company and loved it. But I did learn a lot form this video, thank you. A lot of guys poo poo stay brite and say it sucks, I kinda started to second guess it. I stopped using stay brite after i left that company, but I think I'm gonna start using it again. It is clean and easy. and I used a lot on 410-a , never had a problem. Thanks for all the good info.
Really Well Done Video ! 35 years+ in the Hvac & Refrigeration Trade here. i only use Stay silv 15% and Silver solder 45% or 55%. strong supporter of nitrogen purging when welding. i might give that stay silv #8 a shot soon here. u might say i'm a bit set in my ways.
I've been in this trade for over 20 years, I admire your work, I was 100 % against stay brite 8 for years, but after cutting open some lines and testing it like you just showed I've been using it for 90% of my jobs. Another one of my pet peeves is guys not taking the time to bridge ream pipe after cutting... most decent pipe cutters have the dam thing built in on the cutters. Use it guys. It's not water,gas,oil, or air flowing through these pipes its matter and Viscosity, all of those ridges left in the system cause turbulence and restrictions. 🤷♂️ anyways, I enjoy watching your videos from a guy in the industry. This fellow can teach you a thing or two. 👍👍🇺🇸
Great video! Been in the industry for a while myself. I prefer ox/acely with tons of nitrogen if time permits, and Stay Brite on rush jobs. Then one day I stumbled upon induction coils on you tube. ....man, tinkered with a diy kit. zero oxidation, dial in the heat perfectly everytime.
Thanks for EXCELLENT video . i was hesitant to solder 410 a - AC lines but after watching this i think it's a no brainer - easier and cleaner (inside pipe) choice !!!! Thanks.
Very good video. Heat sink tip: save the fiberglass insulation from scrap insulated flex duct. Wet it. It conforms to whatever and for the most part is fire proof
Quite agree. Refrigeration work came after years of plumbing, after welding. I chose the same despite industry norms, just didn't make sense. Especially heating, time, equipment. Helpful to see a seasoned professional agree.
Fantastic video! You demonstrate mastery of your trade. And if the AC business ever gets old, consider you may have missed your calling as a born salesman - I’ll take all four! 😅
Excellent video! Lots of good, useful and practical information and very well presented! I wish the video would have been available when I installed all the systems in my new house...would have saved me a lot of grief.
Thanks for taking the time to do this video. Great information, presented concisely. I may not agree 100% with everything presented, but you do certainly have some very valid points, and this video is a great introduction for guys coming into the field.
This is a real eye opener! It's not in any way related to my job but i will look at any joint with more respect in the future! I really thougt it was a very easy job with no special skills needed; this really makes me respect every good Plummer and/or technician a lot more and i will look at joints in a different way! Thanks for the video! Nice.
I get so much crap for using stay bright number 8 to install system 410 A system but it works great and I never had an call back because of any leaks or anything. Thank you for making this video so that more people can understand soidering
U get shit for it just like u get shit for doing side business old sport.... they could gaf if it's cheaper, easier, cleaner, blah, blah, and blah...similarly, how they're pushing nitrogen purges....wtf u think they doing trying to help hard working broke mf's or make money supplying them?? Compressors usually have harddrawn connection fittings and u need to have experience with brazing them in when changing them out....I learned that the hard way but, after changing plenty of them out without any trouble till one time...the black sut isn't any different from ash and isn't going to hurt anything if u don't believe me next time u see that "crud" scratch some off if u can and rub it on ur hands and then run ur hands under water and watch what happens...most brazing related new compressor failures or related to the schrader valves.... either some jealous hateful person loosens them or the little plastic seals on them expand and shrink just enough to loosen the seal and u know the person making the money ur working for has to blame u so they tell u that u forgot to remove the Schrader valves when u didn't forget but, u don't usually know any better and can't remember for sure and have no clew that the temperature changing along with all new materials exposed to a new environment or really just fkn with everyone so, ignorant people capitalize on it and it's ok if ur ignorant....then air/moisture and non condensables get in and fk the compressor up....refrigeration uses mostly hard drawn copper for a lot of stuff but, that's another ball game... 🤨.... Mr. Fridgid 😎
Halligan, I am really glad that you did this video, also thank you because you take the time to do it and provide all the materials and charts. Pretty Good Job.
Aside from the camera angles and the very small workbench which stuff kept falling off of... great video! Really informative, you are a true craftsman.
I really enjoyed this video. I used to do window air conditioner repair, and was taught that when baezing to use the stay-silv flux on all of the joints and make sure the joints were all god and clean. I always used braze especially when replacing compressors. I found that the joints were less prone to oxidation.
very thorough video and helpfull , i had 30 years as a certified welder before going to HVAC school i am now retired , did not know in the air cond that you could do that our class showed only to use brazing ! this is better in my view ,,,,and i seen techs out there squinting while brazing ,,,,you only have two eyes protect them wear eye protection out there ,,,,nobody knows when a troch will pop ! just saying ,,,,,thanks for sharing
You very clearly explained with good old common sense gained from time and wisdom the benefits of #8 soft solder vs high temperature higher content of silver rods. I am not entirely sure but it looks like the factory joints in an LG mini split I'm installing , based on the color of the material, were done with lower temperature 6% solder ? As you so well said the melting point of the "'Stay Bright' will never be met in real world refrigerant piping conditions. The benefits of not having to nitrogen purge the line coupled with not annealing the copper is very convincing to a novice like myself. A whole lot of thanks for your video.
Very good video on brazing and soft soldering - I really learned a lot and knew about brazing and soldering from my trade years ago but forgot about the nitrogen purge. However, got to keep up with the times and with some of the newer products out there things do change. I like the #8 Stay Brite and use it on my 410a systems also - flows great without the additional heating (annealing) the copper pieces. Great stuff! great overview thanks so much for your video!..
@@taketinnn33 Had no problems at all .. I have had my heat pump running now for about year and never lost a joint using Stay Brite #8 ... Still pleased with the product and especially pleased I didnt need Nitrogen to solder the joints together. Hope this helps...
GregI teach in a vocational education system something like Community Colleges in the US. My field of teaching is nothing like your area of work, but I have a friend who teaches Refrigeration and I've recommended your channel to him.He likes using RUclips as a teaching resource so I've pointed out this Soldering/Brazing episode and your " Day in the HVAC's life " series.It's a great example of the power of RUclips - 16 year olds here in Wollongong, NSW, Australia will be learning from someone who started in HVAC as a 16 year old in Mass, USA.Thanks so much for this video. I learned a lot from it and I know others will also continue to learn from it.Best Regards
What an excellent video! I have used all those forma of brazing and agree that there is a place for each in certain applications.Anytime you can minimize heat to shraders or ports is a huge plus.
Thanks for the info you help me out of a tuff spot I did not have access to nitrogen ,then I saw your video about staybrite 8. I installed my new Goodman 5 ton 16 seer unit I will tell everyone make sure your connections are true and round and snug and this stuff will work wonderfully, thanks again. clean use a tact rag stuffed into the tube while I deburr to catch filings, an light coat of stayclean and I was good to go Thanks again, 410 working like a charm.
In Australia our straight water pipe joiners have the groove same as refrigeration, and did you know that a crimp tool was made decades ago which looks like a pipe cutter has 3 blunt wheels instead of 1sharp cutter and 2 flat rollers, it was used to join different pipe diameters, which are inside one another, you just use the tool same way as a cutter around the pipe to crust and roll the pipes together which crimps the pipes with such force they cant be separated, and looks good as well, and excellent tutorial video learned a lot, thanks.
That tool is called a constrictor. It is made by Imperial/Eastman and the smaller ones have only one blunt wheel. It's basically the same as a tubing cutter with a rounded wheel instead of a sharp wheel. I bought mine in 1977. The joint works best with the hard silver solder. Squido
Very good and thorough demonstration. ONE OF THE BEST PRESENTATION I HAVE EVER SEEN. I agree with you on the soft solder. Hey technology just got better that we have soft solder now. it is important to understand the spec of material one use.
Good video, I agree with everything you did the only thing I do different is I use white flux with sil phos brazing. Back in the early 70s the counter man explained to me that stay brite 8 was made for R502 high pressure and high heat tensions for soldering in hot gas discharge vibrator eliminators. Previously everyone used 95/5 solder and that wasn't holding up on roof top remote condenser lines. Before that 50/50 solder was used for the old systems from methel chloride and R12, you can still see that on very old porclean cases.
***** Yup some people use the flux, but it isn't required. I'm actually in the process of trying to contact a Harris rep and see if I can get more detailed data on the strength of the soilder.
+rudedogmakingtracks if you might need to remove the part in the future and when you don't want to expose a part to excessive heat like an expandion valve or a vibrator eliminator
This is one of the better video's out there. You did a great job explaining things in simple man terms and covered a good variety of Braze Vs Soldering. I like the stay brite idea much better. Overall much easier. I wish I would have seen this before I brazed all my copper tubing.
I'm a 33 year HVAC professional who has been singing the superiority of Stay Bright 8 over brazing for most applications, including the few situations where brazing excels. This the best video yet about these applications and usages. RUclips is a national treasure, but too many are talking out of their arse, even sincerely. You are a true pro.
Thank you! Still haven't had an issue using it. I find that most people who talk bad about it have never used it or have heard from a friend of a.freond.of a cousin that it doesn't work.
Boa noite! Que solda é essa? Quero ver se consigo encontrar aqui no Brazil. Obrigado.
I’m looking for an opinion on using Staybrite 8 for a compressor replacement. The heat of the discharge line has me concerned
@@Prosecute-fauci 1:03:33
@@Prosecute-fauciThe Staybrite 8 will not leak if sealed correctly.
I can't believe I just sat through an hour long video on soldering 4 fittings and loved every minute. Great video, man. 👍👍
The best lesson on soldering that I have seen anywhere. You are a true professor and professional. Great introduction, great examples, a great summation. Overall this was a presentation that kept my attention from beginning to end. Your passion is encouraging. You have proven your case. Thank you so much. You’ve given me confidence to tackle my DIY project.
Just installed a mini split. Cut off and threw away all flares and soldered everything. The only two flares left are by the service port. Works like a charm, no leaks, no problems. I spent a small fortune on all sort of bs for checking leaks, flaring and reflaring. I`m super glad I found your clip my man. Thank you so much for convincing me and saving TON of headache with those crazy flares. My problems have been SEALED once and for all.
Hello I installed mini split also do you have pics of your connections? Or can describe how u joined the pipes and what did u do for the brass connections on the main unit?
Buy the (spin flare ) bits
And use nylog and you’ll never have a leak.
I'm a DIYer and dreading to learn brazing just for a few maintenance joints I have to do. This was the best video on HVAC piping I have ever seen. Thanks.
I just realized why am unable to learn from people. Most teachers just tell you to do this or do that but then never say, explain, show you why. I see now I needed the WHY, and you sire showed me the WHY in great detail. So much detail that it sunk in. One of the best how-to videos I ever watched.
You are restoring my faith in humanity - thanks for taking the time to educate with an HOUR LONG video! Incredibly helpful!!
I gotta tell you, it is rare for me to watch an hour long of anything in RUclips. I went through this whole video and it felt like 20 minutes, not only did I find it informative, I found it also entertaining. I think you proved your point quite elegantly and eloquently. For what is worth you get a thumbs up and subscription from me
i’m sold on the solder seriously watched a guy do almost a whole system with it and it was a beautiful quick job
This is a fine example how instructional videos should be done. Very informative! Thank you and keep up the good work!
Great instructional video 💯
I am a plumber but for a few years prior to the re-claimers and new HVAC gases were mandatory.
I like that you mentioned open mesh cleaning cloth compared to sand paper, open mesh is the best to use.
If I remember correctly, the hottest part of a torch is the sharp blue point, I’ve used Mapp gas, B tanks and Turbo torches, the MC tank is a handy option for tight spaces. Whenever I had to do 4” DWV copper pipe, I sometimes used 2 torches or would walk the solder around the pipe, but back then for waste lines 50/50 was allowed which helped with big pipes, but I would often try to cap it with 95/5, just an added layer of protection.
Using silver stick soldering was part of my practical test. It’s an acquired skill that takes time to master.
Another part of your video I appreciated was the difference between plumbers sizes and HVAC pipe and fittings along with the difference between M, L, & K copper.
Despite years of working in my trade I still find I can still learn from Trade videos such as your video 👍
I've been working in construction for over 45 years & done a bit of brazing & a lot of soldering, & this video really helps me to understand what I've been doing wrong (& right). I couldn't help but think that there are some A/C men out there disliking you for letting have the info to improve our skills, kind of like a person telling the magician's secretes make the illusionist angry. Keep up the good work, & Thanks for the upload.
I came to compare the difference between brazing and soldering and I left with 16 HVAC college credits
Thanks for making this, it was very informative. I'm a professional Plumber and yes, we are typically taught to flux the inside of fittings as well as the cleaned pipe - and with a capillary straight coupler like the one you soldered, in the vertical position, internal fluxing of the fitting allows the liquid solder to bridge the gap between the pipes (caused by the pipe stop) so that both ends of the fitting can be sweated in one operation. The difference is that any remaining internal flux residues can be flushed out with water during commissioning, however this is a real concern in gas pipework since active flux remaining inside the joint cannot be flushed and does corrode the copper over time. Usually the pipe wall thickness is sufficient that the corrosion is only cosmetic, however I have seen chunks of green flux/copper salts ending up in strainers or even jet nozzles, so your point is well made. So long as you rotate the fluxed fitting before heating, there should be sufficient transfer between the pipe surface and the fitting bore. Thanks again for the tips on brazing, that's a useful video that you made!!
When people teach, and don't work so hard to simply entertain-we learn true methods; successfully. Thank you! I am planning on repairing plumbing on my own; as well as creating projects; you have saved me hours of regret!
Mate i have watched a lot of soldering videos over the last 4 or 5 weeks and I always come back to your video, your a good teacher and I just followed what you said, and it worked... thanks a lot.
Thank you for being so clear in your descriptions! By answering the "why" things are done, this is a video for all trades and industries.
50:42 man that was from inside the pipe! but we can say nitrogen helps a lot with the oxidization but not 100%, there is still some oxidization in the line. 1:02.11. but after all great video, these videos help a lot to many people. Stay Brite #8 is the boss here
This one of the rare 1 hour video that I don't FF, got a few good pointers mostly related to refrigeration... And having your appreciation of the different procedures was a plus...
Good video, thanks...
pierre beaudry
I agree 100%. Great video! Almost everything you need to know about brazing vs soldering in one video demonstration. I've wanted to see this sort of thing for a long time - great detailed explanation & demos. Thanks for sharing this with us.. Much appreciated :)
Energy Fabricator Thank you and yeah I haven's seen much on all the ways in 1 video
pierre beaudry Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it.
I just put my first A/C unit in. I used the #8 because I saw videos on the reliability, the limitations and the advantages. I was a bit intimidated by brazing as I was concerned about damaging the system with the heat. Your video has alleviated my concerns so Thank you sir.
You totally convinced me and I've been using Stay Brite 8 now on my high pressure HVACR applications and couldn't be happier. It's nice to not have to worry about nitrogen flow and have a shiny copper pipe when it's done. Also it requires lower heat so less chance of cooking valves and other refrigeration parts like filter driers (which most techs notoriously destroy the internals of without even realizing it).
Im not worried about nitrogen purge as an extra step as Im always doing a nitrogen pressure test immediately after brazing anyways. I havent convinced myself to use staybright 8 on anything over 100psi. I have a new roll in my truck, never used it lol. Id probably use it on low pressure chillers, but then again Id just use whatever else instead as I know those will work.
@@FrenchBeefCDN i've been using staybrite for 20 years
Everything in this video is 100% correct
@@FrenchBeefCDN I feel the same way. I don't want to have to use flux, I don't trust soft solder under those pressures. I would flow nitrogen, even if I did use Stay-brite 8. I will be purging it anyways. No where near as strong as a Harris Sil fos 15 brazing.
Pressure test does nothing to prevent or get rid of the oxidation on the inside of the pipe it actually prevents the air inside the pipe that causes the oxidation from escaping the system during the brazing process which is not helpful to the system the nitrogen purge is to help with pushing the dirty air from the inside of the system during the brazing process the pressure prevents the dirt in the air from sticking to the pipes interior. So you should always purge nitrogen when brazing. The reason for less oxidation with the solder is because the dirt is not as burnt like it is when using higher temperatures used in brazing. Oxidation is the burnt molecules in the air in the pipe. Thus...ash
I was just looking for some quick tips/tricks while searching for aluminum brazing. Clicked this, thought "I ain't got an hour for one video", ended up watching the whole thing. Very informative
Absolutely huge information for my unexpected chiller repair needs. You just downloaded 16 years of experience that will make all the difference. Thank you Sir.
Best soldering video I have ever watched with the real practical explanations. Thank you so much for the video lesson.
Been using Stay Bright products for 30 years, never have I had a solder joint failure, whether on low pressure side or high side of system. It's definitely the way to go. I did some research on integrity of tubing and failure pressures and discovered exactly what you have explained. This solder will and does hold up to the pressures and heat loads in the environment that it is used in. It's easier to use, quicker to set up and make the joint, thus more efficient for installers and repairs, does not require nitrogen purge, whats not to like. I also clean all fittings before brazing so that's not an issue. I prefer the liquid flux, but that's just preference. Great video by the way, and for those of you that haven't tried or considered trying soft solder, take a look on-line for the data and spec's on this product, and it may change your mind.
Thanks for the feedback
A man after my own heart. I've been a proponent of Stay Brite for years without a problem. Even before the #8 came out. We've put grocery stores in with it. After the joint is soldered you haven't fatigued the metal like you will with Sil-Fos. When you've got your head in an ice machine replacing a leaking accumulator or TXV you really appreciate it. Tech schools teach Sil-Fos and that's what everyone learns....even inspectors. They don't know the difference between Stay Brite and 50/50.......it's plumbing solder to them. Great instructional vid........
Hey there. What about the higher pressure refrigerant's like 410 and r32. Is there a chance of a leak under so many PSIs on heat pumps for example?
Been a student of Engineering for 40 years and a professional engineer for 35 years and would agree with all in this video. Excellent.
Outstanding tutorial - we all just got many years of experience explained to us in detail... Thank you.
Hey man, you know how to educate people. I don't thing schools can give a so clean process and comparison like you just did. two thumbs up for you!
I was only going to watch for 10 minutes and I end up watching the whole video. Thank you so much.
You, sir, should be teaching :-) You managed to pack in this one hour the most important things one normally learns after years in the trade, even I after decades in Construction learned a few things myself. It was a joy to watch, I tip my hat to you, sir!
Thanks!
+johnny. He is, with his videos.
I agree
@@dukestripling6301 l am not to much "F" talking😴😃 😃😃
Yeah I have a friend that has been in construction for a long long time and he's not really into aesthetics plus he gets paid by the hour not by the unit so yeah it is slightly a different world a handyman's work has to look good as well as work good and engineer can hide this hide that hide the other as long as it works good
In my opinion this video is spot on! Just did a DIY a-coil replacement and chose to use Stay Brite 8 after watching this. The sil-phos braze joint to the old a-coil made the copper so soft my tubing cutter would just crush the tube. Had to cut it with a hacksaw. This verifies the high degree of tempering and loss of copper strength from high temp brazing. My soldering process with Stay Brite 8 went as smooth as possible. Probably took 15 seconds for a 7/8 suction connection. No messing around with inert gas purge and excessive cool wrapping of nearby fittings.
+Rudy Lyon Glad it worked out for you
Great video. Good to show the cut-a-ways on how dirty the inside of the pipe is. I've been using stay-brite 8 for last 5-6 years. It's the only way to go. No oxidation, stronger copper and less chance of heating valves too much.
I've been looking into using the silver solder (NOT brazing rod) for months now, and this is by FAR the best video I've seen on the subject. Kudos!
I have been doing commercial hvac for about 8 years now. We only use stay bright 8 and a turbo torch for all of our copper to copper connections and have never had a failure on anything from 410a r22 407c 134a. The part most guys do not like about the soldering is that they have to meticulously clean and flux every joint to assure a good solid connection. If you open up a unit look at the factory joints you would be surprised that most manufacturers use silver solder for their joints. Just pay attention to how clean and how much flux you are putting on
I agree. Most people don't like to clean. I clean everything though. Even my braze joints. Makes a nice clean surface free of oil and other trash. I can say though the one place brazing comes into its own is on loose fitting joints or gaps and when the copper is pitted as in the case of an evaperator on a refrigerator.
Grandmaster level of teaching! So fascinating.
Dude I installed a used condenser unit today to help a friend and had to call a local shop to get a piston orface. He told me their new installs 6 out of 10 they're replacing txv valves and how they're junk. I'm like thats odd. So I asked him are they flowing nitrogen? He said no. Well there ya go brother. So I showed him your video part about why you should and the stay bright 8. He wrote down your RUclips information. Spreading the love brother. Peace from NC
20 years in the biz and you taught me something today awesome vid thanks sir.
Just a minor correction: when you are brazing, it isn't the heat that cleans the copper pipe, it is the reducing action of the fuel-rich flame. Turbo torches are designed to run slightly fuel rich. When using an oxy-acetylene rig, the flame should always be adjusted slightly to the reducing (aka carburizing) side. In either case, the carbon monoxide in the fuel rich flame reacts with the heated copper oxide, reducing it to pure copper and CO2. My chemistry is a bit rusty but the reaction is CuO + CO -> Cu + CO2. My main reason for mentioning this is for the guys using OAC rigs - you gotta run the flame slightly fuel-rich or you won't get the cleaning effect. The oxide also has to be hot enough to react, which is why this only works at brazing temps and not when soldering. [/professor mode]
Also, I completely agree with the use of Stay Brite and Stay Brite 8 for AC and refrigeration lines. Done properly it is as stronger than brazed copper, resists vibration better, and won't contaminate the system. I keep both versions handy. I use the regular Stay Brite for tight fitups (i.e. TXV's) and the Stay Brite 8 for loose fitups (most regular copper fittings).
@ace toxic damnnnn! Greenman here. Talk to me, brother! That's what I am talking about! Let that OCD kick in! Just kidding about OCD. The specs and standards you mentioned...is black belt brazing, hi-yaah! Sooo, how the hell can I hone my awareness and touch to accomplish those specs? I am digging the factory bead/joint. I figure I'd like to learn that way versus acquiring a bunch of bad habits and then have to be rid of them.
WTFChuk “.0
900 degrees F is where the oxides flash-off
perfect! Handy & Harmon actually developed the "slightly reducing flame" or "long tail" flame for their Silfos product. Its in their product literature. peace brother.
Hey there. What about the higher psi refrigerant's like r32 and r410, will the higher psi plus temps cause wearing and leakages?
This is one loaded teaching, all in one pack just in an hour. what a well of experience, thank you sir.
Thoroughly enjoyed this video very much!! I work on a lot of new construction lease ups as a maintenance supervisor and you wouldn’t or would! believe the nightmares I’ve seen with these systems being roughed in. Most installers have never even heard of reducers and crimp and it annoys the hell out of me. Thank you for taking the time to make this video!
Resin core flux solder has been my favourite way to join copper to copper for 20+ years while all my work buddies are running around organising heavy bottles of gas regulators blablabla me and my bernzomatic have done the job with an inch of resin core or less yet they shake their heads in disbelief of what their eyes see.
The only place I use silver brazing is steel and close to compressors.
nice vid🖒
One of the best demonstration of copper pipe solder and brazing techniques. Well done brother. Cheers from Michael. Australia.
I started in the HVAC trade in 1974 in the US Army. I then got out and continued doing HVAC. I started using regular solder, I've used different kinds of solder, different brands, whatever is cheap since the early 1990s. I've never had an issue with the solder joints. Never.
Great video! I always use Oxygen/Acetylene torches on my braze/silver solder joints instead of the "Turbo-Torch". Why? Get the heat on fast, then get it off fast. This equals less oxidation in the copper and maintains a stronger joint while maintaining the integrity of the copper. Simply put, it lasts longer. Rose-bud tips and dual tips are a must in brazing or silver soldering larger joints. Smaller joints, I still use and oxy/acyt torch. Get the heat where you need it and get it off quickly. The rest of what you've said is pretty much on par to what I teach new recruits. I DO NOT teach soft soldered joints on refrigeration. I only teach brazed or silver soldered joints, for various reasons. I like you have been doing this for some time. For me, since 1985. I've found soft soldered joints to fail before brazed or silver soldered joints and can last 30 years, while soft soldered joints only last about 5-10 years.
I don't understand why people try to avoid brazing. After some exercises and practice both of operations are quite simple and take the same time (brazing even faster especially with oxy/acytelen torch (i use oxy/propene because acytelen security issues and problems with logistics and prices in my country). And as you say years of practice and observations show that brazing very reliable 30 years even 50 years old machines and no problems! Time prove viability. Only drawback IMHO is refueling oxygen tanks and fuel tanks (oxygen much more often). And of course local codes that regulate security issues.
Brazing is cheapest way of cooper joining in refrigeration (someone would say pressfittings flaring fittings etc. No doubt it is quite reliable but much more costly! And IMHO it should be used when working with open flame is impossible or problematical)
Thank you for yours mature opinion!
Excuse me for my English
The difference between brazing vs soft solder in HVAC is that all the homeowners use soft solder and all the professionals almost universally braze.
I have seen so many people braze because they don’t know how to properly solder. Been building refer systems for 30 years with Stay-brite.
With no leaks. Great solder
Thank you for this video. I'm taking up HVAC Im now studying Soldering and Brazing and this was very informative and helpful.
I watched this video because I am plumbing in an air compressor with copper pipes. I am plumbing the compressor to the tank and it gets really hot. I had no idea what solder to use. This video helped answered my question for my use. I actually measured the temperature of the exhaust line on a like unit. I determined it gets as hot as 253 degrees F. My solder has a melting point 419 degrees F and a tensile strength of 6950 psi. I'm going to use it because it is cheap and easy to solder with. Thanks Halligan142 for a great video!
Hey, I just gave you an hour of my life Greg - and I'm glad I did! Saved me months of learning the hard way. Thanks for taking the time to walk us through all this useful info. A very compelling case for doing things right with soft solder. YOU Sir, should be a lawyer!
We have been using #8 for over 25 years - way to go!!!
Nice metal lathe !
Nice to see a fellow HVAC-R guy who has solid work ethics and takes pride in their workmanship. Greetings from Indianapolis Indiana 👋
Another vote for Stay-Brite 8. All the counterpoints against it are baseless. Its cleaner and leaves the pipe stronger. Been using on 410a without any issues. Thanks for the video.
100%
Excellent camera work. It made all the difference. I think my soldering will improve thanks to all your tips. I also used to wipe the joint when it was hot because it looked neater but not anymore. Thankfully I'm not a plumber just a hobbiest that likes to tinker. Cheers from Canberra, Australia.
I’m not in the business, but I enjoyed the hell out of this. Makes me want to do some soft soldering! Great instruction.
This is definitely the best and most comprehensive video on soldering and brazing. Thanks!
I have been using Stay-brite 8 for years installing residential Air Conditioning. Never had a leak and is easier to used. I used the liquit stay clean instead of the paste. I liked better. Used on TXV, and it works really great. Is up to you, if you want to use Stay-brite 8, or braze.
what a breath of fresh air..... so nice and, unfortunately so rare, to find people who truely know their shit.... or who really even give a shit enough to even care to know their shit like this. To me, that speaks volumes about the true measure of ones pride in their doings. 2 thumbs up to you sir.
All though I do not do any refrigeration work but a Lot of plumbing this is by far the best video I have ever seen on soldering and brazing and the proper use of flux with GREAT examples of why and why not--- just an OUTSTANDING good video!! I think if anyone who has a need to solder or braze should watch this video! A plus and Two thumbs up Sir Thanks for posting it
I tip my hat off to you SIr. This takes me back years ago working with soldiers. Job well done with proper technique keeping it clean too. Peace
Kind of difficult to squeeze a compliment out of me on this type of video, but just let me say - OUTSTANDING! Justifying exactly why you'll use certain methods and going into detail about product specs and situations makes all the difference in the usefulness of your demonstration. Perhaps industry pros already know this stuff, but if not they should be paying attention. Thanks.
I've been tossing around the idea of plumbing air lines in my basement. The hour I spent watching this surely saved my many more hours of scratching my head trying to figure out how to do it alone!...
+Benny McKeon (DigitalBenny) Check out Northern Tool. They have all the parts to run plastic piping for compresed air.
rudedogmakingtracks I'm a big fan of Northern Tool. And not a fan of pressurized air vs. plastic. But thanks.
This is special plastic. Not PVC. Never run compressed air in PVC. I'm not a fan of plastic pipe for domestic water but thats the way things are going. Just finished a 16 story condo project in Long Beach Ca. All domestic water under 2 inches was done in CPVC.
That sir, was the most thought out, well done videos I have ever seen on RUclips. Well worth the one hour plus to watch this excellent video!!!
Hello, I'm a current HVAC college student trying desperately to learn the trade. I have much trouble learning it so having youtube to turn to and videos like this help me out greatly. Thanks for the time and effort you put into these videos. You have just earned another sub.
finally found somebody that agrees with what i been saying to friend techs in the hvac that would not beleive what i was saying ! cause i was a welder certified for over 30 years before i went to HVAC school and over 18 years in that ! thank you stick with it i am so possitive about what your trying to teach here ,,,,,take care
Great video, I used stay brite a lot at my old company and loved it. But I did learn a lot form this video, thank you. A lot of guys poo poo stay brite and say it sucks, I kinda started to second guess it. I stopped using stay brite after i left that company, but I think I'm gonna start using it again. It is clean and easy. and I used a lot on 410-a , never had a problem. Thanks for all the good info.
Really Well Done Video ! 35 years+ in the Hvac & Refrigeration Trade here. i only use Stay silv 15% and Silver solder 45% or 55%. strong supporter of nitrogen purging when welding. i might give that stay silv #8 a shot soon here. u might say i'm a bit set in my ways.
I've been in this trade for over 20 years, I admire your work, I was 100 % against stay brite 8 for years, but after cutting open some lines and testing it like you just showed I've been using it for 90% of my jobs. Another one of my pet peeves is guys not taking the time to bridge ream pipe after cutting... most decent pipe cutters have the dam thing built in on the cutters. Use it guys. It's not water,gas,oil, or air flowing through these pipes its matter and Viscosity, all of those ridges left in the system cause turbulence and restrictions. 🤷♂️ anyways, I enjoy watching your videos from a guy in the industry. This fellow can teach you a thing or two. 👍👍🇺🇸
Although this was 8-years ago, this Still very informative about Both Brazing and Staybrite 8....👍👍👍
Great video! Been in the industry for a while myself. I prefer ox/acely with tons of nitrogen if time permits, and Stay Brite on rush jobs. Then one day I stumbled upon induction coils on you tube. ....man, tinkered with a diy kit. zero oxidation, dial in the heat perfectly everytime.
Thanks for EXCELLENT video . i was hesitant to solder 410 a - AC lines but after watching this i think it's a no brainer - easier and cleaner (inside pipe) choice !!!! Thanks.
Very good video. Heat sink tip: save the fiberglass insulation from scrap insulated flex duct. Wet it. It conforms to whatever and for the most part is fire proof
Quite agree. Refrigeration work came after years of plumbing, after welding. I chose the same despite industry norms, just didn't make sense. Especially heating, time, equipment. Helpful to see a seasoned professional agree.
Hi Greg, Very good video. When I saw it was over an hour long, I thought it would be too long for one viewing, but it flew right by. Good job.
Yeah sorry for the length but I wanted to touch on a bunch of points. I'm going to put some time stamps in the description.
Fantastic video! You demonstrate mastery of your trade. And if the AC business ever gets old, consider you may have missed your calling as a born salesman - I’ll take all four! 😅
Very informative, no bullshit, show how it's done, cut it open, and show, what works, and what doesn't. Respect.
Excellent video! Lots of good, useful and practical information and very well presented! I wish the video would have been available when I installed all the systems in my new house...would have saved me a lot of grief.
Thanks for taking the time to do this video. Great information, presented concisely. I may not agree 100% with everything presented, but you do certainly have some very valid points, and this video is a great introduction for guys coming into the field.
Thanks!
This is a real eye opener! It's not in any way related to my job but i will look at any joint with more respect in the future! I really thougt it was a very easy job with no special skills needed; this really makes me respect every good Plummer and/or technician a lot more and i will look at joints in a different way! Thanks for the video! Nice.
I get so much crap for using stay bright number 8 to install system 410 A system but it works great and I never had an call back because of any leaks or anything. Thank you for making this video so that more people can understand soidering
U get shit for it just like u get shit for doing side business old sport.... they could gaf if it's cheaper, easier, cleaner, blah, blah, and blah...similarly, how they're pushing nitrogen purges....wtf u think they doing trying to help hard working broke mf's or make money supplying them?? Compressors usually have harddrawn connection fittings and u need to have experience with brazing them in when changing them out....I learned that the hard way but, after changing plenty of them out without any trouble till one time...the black sut isn't any different from ash and isn't going to hurt anything if u don't believe me next time u see that "crud" scratch some off if u can and rub it on ur hands and then run ur hands under water and watch what happens...most brazing related new compressor failures or related to the schrader valves.... either some jealous hateful person loosens them or the little plastic seals on them expand and shrink just enough to loosen the seal and u know the person making the money ur working for has to blame u so they tell u that u forgot to remove the Schrader valves when u didn't forget but, u don't usually know any better and can't remember for sure and have no clew that the temperature changing along with all new materials exposed to a new environment or really just fkn with everyone so, ignorant people capitalize on it and it's ok if ur ignorant....then air/moisture and non condensables get in and fk the compressor up....refrigeration uses mostly hard drawn copper for a lot of stuff but, that's another ball game... 🤨....
Mr. Fridgid 😎
Dude. This is great stuff. I don't know how anyone could refute eye witness prof. You can't debate real life evidence. Excellent work.
Halligan, I am really glad that you did this video, also thank you because you take the time to do it and provide all the materials and charts. Pretty Good Job.
Aside from the camera angles and the very small workbench which stuff kept falling off of... great video! Really informative, you are a true craftsman.
Walter's Playground Thank you. Couldn't use my big bench because it's against the wall so I can't get the camera in there.
I really enjoyed this video.
I used to do window air conditioner repair, and was taught that when baezing to use the stay-silv flux on all of the joints and make sure the joints were all god and clean. I always used braze especially when replacing compressors. I found that the joints were less prone to oxidation.
Dan Floyd Yup you can use flux with the brazing rods, but it is not required.
very thorough video and helpfull , i had 30 years as a certified welder before going to HVAC school i am now retired , did not know in the air cond that you could do that our class showed only to use brazing ! this is better in my view ,,,,and i seen techs out there squinting while brazing ,,,,you only have two eyes protect them wear eye protection out there ,,,,nobody knows when a troch will pop ! just saying ,,,,,thanks for sharing
You very clearly explained with good old common sense gained from time and wisdom the benefits of #8 soft solder vs high temperature higher content of silver rods. I am not entirely sure but it looks like the factory joints in an LG mini split I'm installing , based on the color of the material, were done with lower temperature 6% solder ? As you so well said the melting point of the "'Stay Bright' will never be met in real world refrigerant piping conditions. The benefits of not having to nitrogen purge the line coupled with not annealing the copper is very convincing to a novice like myself. A whole lot of thanks for your video.
Very good video on brazing and soft soldering - I really learned a lot and knew about brazing and soldering from my trade years ago but forgot about the nitrogen purge. However, got to keep up with the times and with some of the newer products out there things do change. I like the #8 Stay Brite and use it on my 410a systems also - flows great without the additional heating (annealing) the copper pieces. Great stuff! great overview thanks so much for your video!..
Hey there. What about the pressure issues, because r410 and r32 are high end pressure refrigerant's?
@@taketinnn33 Had no problems at all .. I have had my heat pump running now for about year and never lost a joint using Stay Brite #8 ... Still pleased with the product and especially pleased I didnt need Nitrogen to solder the joints together. Hope this helps...
GregI teach in a vocational education system something like Community Colleges in the US. My field of teaching is nothing like your area of work, but I have a friend who teaches Refrigeration and I've recommended your channel to him.He likes using RUclips as a teaching resource so I've pointed out this Soldering/Brazing episode and your " Day in the HVAC's life " series.It's a great example of the power of RUclips - 16 year olds here in Wollongong, NSW, Australia will be learning from someone who started in HVAC as a 16 year old in Mass, USA.Thanks so much for this video. I learned a lot from it and I know others will also continue to learn from it.Best Regards
Thank you very much. All these videos are to educate and I'm glad they can be used for our future replacements :-)
Hi !
Now we are all ready for a pH.D in soldering - very nice and informative video - thx !
Thanks!
Am currently a HVAC student and this video was great alot of information and helpful
What an excellent video! I have used all those forma of brazing and agree that there is a place for each in certain applications.Anytime you can minimize heat to shraders or ports is a huge plus.
Good Video I have been in the field for 17 years and learned a lot from this video. Thank you it was so good I watched the whole video.
H142, one of the best brazing, whatever tutorials ever. I review this all the time, thanks
Fantastic video. I appreciate the effort you put into the narration and hi quality of the video itself as well as the pace and thoroughness.
Its about time someone did a video on this subject, Thank you . You covered all the bases !
Thanks for the info you help me out of a tuff spot I did not have access to nitrogen ,then I saw your video about staybrite 8. I installed my new Goodman 5 ton 16 seer unit I will tell everyone make sure your connections are true and round and snug and this stuff will work wonderfully, thanks again. clean use a tact rag stuffed into the tube while I deburr to catch filings, an light coat of stayclean and I was good to go Thanks again, 410 working like a charm.
Doing the same here was looking for that type of feedback. Ordered some today.
In Australia our straight water pipe joiners have the groove same as refrigeration, and did you know that a crimp tool was made decades ago which looks like a pipe cutter has 3 blunt wheels instead of 1sharp cutter and 2 flat rollers, it was used to join different pipe diameters, which are inside one another, you just use the tool same way as a cutter around the pipe to crust and roll the pipes together which crimps the pipes with such force they cant be separated, and looks good as well, and excellent tutorial video learned a lot, thanks.
That tool is called a constrictor. It is made by Imperial/Eastman and the smaller ones have only one blunt wheel. It's basically the same as a tubing cutter with a rounded wheel instead of a sharp wheel. I bought mine in 1977. The joint works best with the hard silver solder. Squido
Very good and thorough demonstration. ONE OF THE BEST PRESENTATION I HAVE EVER SEEN. I agree with you on the soft solder. Hey technology just got better that we have soft solder now. it is important to understand the spec of material one use.
Good video, I agree with everything you did the only thing I do different is I use white flux with sil phos brazing. Back in the early 70s the counter man explained to me that stay brite 8 was made for R502 high pressure and high heat tensions for soldering in hot gas discharge vibrator eliminators. Previously everyone used 95/5 solder and that wasn't holding up on roof top remote condenser lines. Before that 50/50 solder was used for the old systems from methel chloride and R12, you can still see that on very old porclean cases.
Orange rods that have the flux on them are the best. Think they're 45 percent silver. Will stick to anything.
***** Yup some people use the flux, but it isn't required. I'm actually in the process of trying to contact a Harris rep and see if I can get more detailed data on the strength of the soilder.
+Jim Pettinato Why would you ever use solder?
+rudedogmakingtracks if you might need to remove the part in the future and when you don't want to expose a part to excessive heat like an expandion valve or a vibrator eliminator
This is one of the better video's out there. You did a great job explaining things in simple man terms and covered a good variety of Braze Vs Soldering. I like the stay brite idea much better. Overall much easier. I wish I would have seen this before I brazed all my copper tubing.