This is going to be my 3rd season as a Beek. I've watched many videos to decrease swarms (had 4 out of 3 colonies swarm last season). This is best video I've seen! Thank you!
I do this technique and one thing you forgot to mention; you will have drones emerging in the top medium super and you have to crack the top to let the drones out cuz they are trapped above the excluder.
If you have a medium on that you intent to harvest, you should use HopGuard or Formic Pro. Both are safe to use with supers on and will not leave residue in the honey.
I totally agree with you on one topic. Double deep hive during the winter up north, I too often found they got stuck in the bottom box, would not cross the gap between boxes, and starve all the while there was a full box of honey overhead. There is a wave of new beekeepers still running double deep hives, but they, including myself, are running 18.5" frames. The bees do exceptional well on these frames, and you have eliminated the gap. (I wish you would have considered doing them demo using an empty hive--you killed hundred of bees doing this. Yikes
I had been running single deeps and went back to doubles this year. I don’t like them. When should I break them down to singles again? After I harvest in a couple of weeks and home they request,or wait until spring and buy queens.?
You have two options depending on your location and how much time you have before winter. 1 - Split your hive now into two singles, just make sure you have ample time to get the hive ready for winter. Depending on your location, you may have to buy a queen, rather than raising one, to allow enough time for her to start laying and the hive to build up for winter. 2 - Overwinter in the double deeps and make splits in the spring.
That is not a true Demaree split. A Demaree split requires all but one frame of brood to be moved up above the honey supers. The frames moved up are replaced with either drawn comb if you have it or foundation or both to fill the brood box.
You should try them . I think if you do you will be pleasantly surprised. It makes it a hundred times easier to find your queen, it will keep your queen out of your honey supers an messing up Your honey , it will keep you queen from Laying in your honey supers an messing up your comb,it will keep your honey cob clean an not turn it all black, it keeps your queen out of your honey supers so when you pull honey you do not have to worry about getting the queen when pulling honey an end up killing her or damaging her . Etc, Etc,Etc.
2:52 That's not a super! You added that box UNDER the queen excluder therefore it is a part of the brood chamber. Your muddling of terminology confuses beekeepers, especially those new to the field.
I thought he should mention to be aware of queen cells especially if you set that box up any higher after excluding...because of brood over excluder now
Technically, it is a 6 5/8" medium super. He explains that it will function as part of the brood chamber. Some beekeepers choose to use only medium supers on their hives. Three medium supers provide the equivalent bee space as two deep hive bodies, which are commonly referred to as brood boxes.
The single deep is in reference to managing a single deep as the brood chamber. Singles are often used in commercial operations focused on honey production.
That was BRILLIANT! You outsmarted the bees and did very well. Way to go! And thanks because I will try exactly the same thing…
You can do it!
This is going to be my 3rd season as a Beek. I've watched many videos to decrease swarms (had 4 out of 3 colonies swarm last season). This is best video I've seen! Thank you!
Thanks for watching, we’re glad it was helpful!
Excellent tutorial!
Thank you!
Great video.
Thank you!
I may have to try the demaree. It's definitely a fine line trying to prevent swarms but yet have a good honey crop.
Yes it is! I think most of us have pushed it too far and have had a hive swarm.
I do this technique and one thing you forgot to mention; you will have drones emerging in the top medium super and you have to crack the top to let the drones out cuz they are trapped above the excluder.
Thank you for the helpful comment!
What about Varroa treatments? When you have one deep+one medium in autumn-winter it.s time to treat, any residues in the medium honey?
Verroa mite treatment will kill the Queen. Don't always have Verroa every year
If you have a medium on that you intent to harvest, you should use HopGuard or Formic Pro. Both are safe to use with supers on and will not leave residue in the honey.
@@mannlake Thanks a lot for your anwser and useful video.
Good informative information. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks. Great info
Glad it was helpful!
I totally agree with you on one topic. Double deep hive during the winter up north, I too often found they got stuck in the bottom box, would not cross the gap between boxes, and starve all the while there was a full box of honey overhead. There is a wave of new beekeepers still running double deep hives, but they, including myself, are running 18.5" frames. The bees do exceptional well on these frames, and you have eliminated the gap.
(I wish you would have considered doing them demo using an empty hive--you killed hundred of bees doing this. Yikes
I'll keep that in mind for future videos!
Love your video. This is very similar to how we do it. Going into our 4th year we are doing the Demaree method in the Spring.
Thank you for watching, we are glad you enjoyed the video!
How did that method work out for you? I know a few people in this area that have used that method to prevent swarming.
Good information 👍 thanks 😊
You're welcome! We are glad you enjoyed this video!
Would like to see the different types of mite treatment, thanks for the good info
We will work on that content for you!
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Interesting concept. Thanks for the info. What part of the country are you located in?
Frank is located in Pennsylvania.
This dude doesn't give a friggin' heck and just chucks those boxes on top of each other.
were the two additional supers drawn with comb or blank foundation, going into my second year so i still dont have much comb
You can use new frames. Just know that you may not get as much honey the first year when bees are dedicating resources to drawing comb.
I had been running single deeps and went back to doubles this year. I don’t like them. When should I break them down to singles again? After I harvest in a couple of weeks and home they request,or wait until spring and buy queens.?
You have two options depending on your location and how much time you have before winter.
1 - Split your hive now into two singles, just make sure you have ample time to get the hive ready for winter. Depending on your location, you may have to buy a queen, rather than raising one, to allow enough time for her to start laying and the hive to build up for winter.
2 - Overwinter in the double deeps and make splits in the spring.
Thank you.
Can this be done with 8 frame equipment?
Yes it can.
I would like to see how you recommend keeping bees in east Texas from your Texas store
Videos will be coming from the Texas location!
That is not a true Demaree split.
A Demaree split requires all but one frame of brood to be moved up above the honey supers.
The frames moved up are replaced with either drawn comb if you have it or foundation or both to fill the brood box.
I never use queen excluder
Not everyone does use one. It really depends on your style of hive management if one should be used or not.
You should try them . I think if you do you will be pleasantly surprised. It makes it a hundred times easier to find your queen, it will keep your queen out of your honey supers an messing up
Your honey , it will keep you queen from
Laying in your honey supers an messing up your comb,it will keep your honey cob clean an not turn it all black, it keeps your queen out of your honey supers so when you pull honey you do not have to worry about getting the queen when pulling honey an end up killing her or damaging her . Etc, Etc,Etc.
Trapping any drones that hatched in the honey super. I did that, oops.
ummm i think you had that backwards, if its really cold they eat less because they are balled in cluster, if it is warmer they eat more
Nope that’s not how it works at all according to studies….
2:52 That's not a super! You added that box UNDER the queen excluder therefore it is a part of the brood chamber. Your muddling of terminology confuses beekeepers, especially those new to the field.
Modern Mann Lake Brad.
I thought he should mention to be aware of queen cells especially if you set that box up any higher after excluding...because of brood over excluder now
Technically, it is a 6 5/8" medium super. He explains that it will function as part of the brood chamber. Some beekeepers choose to use only medium supers on their hives. Three medium supers provide the equivalent bee space as two deep hive bodies, which are commonly referred to as brood boxes.
Hope they request themselves
Keep in mind that if you allow them to requeen themselves she will not be laying for almost a month, which could be too late.
I don't think you could have smashed more bees if you were using a mallet.
So you didnt run a single deep..you added a box
The single deep is in reference to managing a single deep as the brood chamber. Singles are often used in commercial operations focused on honey production.
you'r so unneccessarily rough on the innocent little hive : why not stop talking to us and look for another job?
LOL
😂😂