The easiest split I've seen. I am only into this beekeeping about 6 months. I have one swarm trap with a small colony and two hives that seem to have captured two different swarms as well. I am going to wait at least a week before I open it. Thanks for an excellent video.
: 1 : After split, how far the new apiary must be from original location....? 2 : If I split a colony today, and keep the queenless in its original apiary, move the colony with queen to other Apiary, then after how many days can I bring back this colony back to its original apiary...? 3 : Can I split a colony with a lot of bees, but no drones and drone cells....? But there are drones in other hives.
1. It’s usually recommended to move a split 2-3 miles away to prevent drifting back to the original hive. However, if moving that far isn’t possible, you can help them reorient by confining the bees for a couple of days with ventilation and feed, or by placing branches in front of the entrance. 2. At least a week. 3. You can still split a colony even if there are no drones or drone cells in that specific hive, as long as drones are present in nearby hives. The new queen can mate with those drones during her mating flights. Just monitor the split closely to ensure queen rearing and mating are successful.
Yes, absolutely. Since I run single deeps during the flow, I rarely do. I have weakened it enough so it won't swarm, make a good amount of honey. Then in fall, I will add either a medium or deep brood to overwinter. if I plan on splitting it 50/50, I add a deep, otherwise I add a medium. If I overwinter in a deep/medium configuration, those hives are demaree in spring (a whole other topic).
I am buying a few hives...and going to start with 2 hives of bees next year.. I am in northeast texas south east of Dallas ....What are the best bees to start with in this region.... Thanks for your videos they are amazingly helpful
Yes, I actually did. To keep the video short and sweet, I didn't show that - I probably should have. Since it was early spring most of the brood will be in the top box, which is what you want. If I split it 3 weeks later, I definitely would have balanced the brood so I had mostly open brood in the top box, and more capped in the bottom.
That works if you are allowing the bees to make their own queen. However, I have found if I do that and ADD a queen to the split, they replace her very quickly. There are a lot of ways to do the same thing - try them all! it's the only way we learn! Good luck with your beekeeping. Frank.
Well...that depends. Since my goal is honey production, I USUALLY just put on honey supers. But adding another deep is fine. I add another brood box (a deep or medium) in early fall to overwinter.
The easiest split I've seen. I am only into this beekeeping about 6 months. I have one swarm trap with a small colony and two hives that seem to have captured two different swarms as well. I am going to wait at least a week before I open it. Thanks for an excellent video.
You're welcome! Glad you liked it!
This is the best video I've seen on doing a split. You made it very easy to understand!! Thanks
We are glad you found it helpful!
: 1 : After split, how far the new apiary must be from original location....?
2 : If I split a colony today, and keep the queenless in its original apiary, move the colony with queen to other Apiary, then after how many days can I bring back this colony back to its original apiary...?
3 : Can I split a colony with a lot of bees, but no drones and drone cells....? But there are drones in other hives.
1. It’s usually recommended to move a split 2-3 miles away to prevent drifting back to the original hive. However, if moving that far isn’t possible, you can help them reorient by confining the bees for a couple of days with ventilation and feed, or by placing branches in front of the entrance.
2. At least a week.
3. You can still split a colony even if there are no drones or drone cells in that specific hive, as long as drones are present in nearby hives. The new queen can mate with those drones during her mating flights. Just monitor the split closely to ensure queen rearing and mating are successful.
Great video on how to split! Thank you!
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for doing this video. You made it seem very easy, rather than very confusing, and that's just what we needed. 🐝🐝
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent work!
Thank you!
Simple, made sense, early enough with the added Queen to have two good sized hives.
Thank you!
Can you later combine those two hives if you don't want to expand?
Yes, you certainly could but you may be better managing the colony so it does not swarm rather than splitting.
Great info, thanks. Greetings from Washington state!
Thanks for watching!
Very good idea! Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
excellent video, thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
Loved this video. Great!
Thank you!
Thanks you make it so easy.
He really does make it look easy!
Could you have added a second deep back on top of the original colony?
Yes, absolutely. Since I run single deeps during the flow, I rarely do. I have weakened it enough so it won't swarm, make a good amount of honey. Then in fall, I will add either a medium or deep brood to overwinter. if I plan on splitting it 50/50, I add a deep, otherwise I add a medium. If I overwinter in a deep/medium configuration, those hives are demaree in spring (a whole other topic).
I am buying a few hives...and going to start with 2 hives of bees next year.. I am in northeast texas south east of Dallas ....What are the best bees to start with in this region.... Thanks for your videos they are amazingly helpful
Italian bees are always a good breed to start with. They are gentle and good honey producers.
Thx Frank
Where do you place the queen?
I’m pretty sure he has another video that shows how to install the queen.
We do have a video on how to install a queen! ruclips.net/video/VtCFHzPMXPk/видео.html
Did u look in the purple box before doing the split?
Yes, I actually did. To keep the video short and sweet, I didn't show that - I probably should have. Since it was early spring most of the brood will be in the top box, which is what you want. If I split it 3 weeks later, I definitely would have balanced the brood so I had mostly open brood in the top box, and more capped in the bottom.
Wouldn’t it be better to leave the new split and take the one with the queen so that foragers flying back strengthen the new split?
That works if you are allowing the bees to make their own queen. However, I have found if I do that and ADD a queen to the split, they replace her very quickly.
There are a lot of ways to do the same thing - try them all! it's the only way we learn! Good luck with your beekeeping. Frank.
Thank you! This is my new splitting method!
Thanks!
You're welcome!
Will you put another hive body on each or go straight to a super when they are ready?
Since these hives are located in our PA location, we prefer to run two deeps, we will add another brood box before putting a super on.
Well...that depends. Since my goal is honey production, I USUALLY just put on honey supers. But adding another deep is fine. I add another brood box (a deep or medium) in early fall to overwinter.
How many frames of brood did you leave in the original box with the queen? I'm sorry, I must of missed that.
No more than 5
Depending on the strength of the colony, leave 4 or 5 frames.
Easy explained ty au
You're welcome!