That is a special bolt in that side with a ball end for the gas strut to attach to that slows the decent of the lower tailgate, if the bolt is mashed you will have to buy the bolt and strap from Landrover not available separately, or do away with the gas strut and fit a new bolt and strap this will fix the issue
Set of Irwin or similar removal sockets needed. They are designed to grip nuts and bolts that are rusted to a different size and have hexagonal heads on which you can fit a normal spanner / open wrench. They work brilliantly from my experience. Looks like it is too far gone and side piece will need cutting out / plate welding back on to restore mounting rigidity.
If this was in my workshop, Soak for a few days with Plusgas fast release, Remove door seal, Choose Correct Deep socket, working it lose then tight, If the bolt is visible from behide the light cluster spray there too. Finger crossed it undoes.
Hi Lucy, two options here. 1. Get an angle grinder and a metal cutting blade and cut the ball off the end so you can get a shallow socked on the nut and 2. Get a pair of footprint pliers. (Mini stilsons) and try those with an extension of some sort. I'm a plumber so I use my top hat box spanner for extra leverage. I often end up using my plumbing tools to fix my Bentley! :) best of luck
Agree that using WD40 might help. Fun fact the L322 was developed by BMW, I think that's why it's the best looking iteration to date. Still uses BMW parts even in the later versions. Good luck.
Has to be a ring spanner soak with wd40 overnight. Tap on with a hammer work it up and down till you get movement. If you’re careful add a bit of heat from a blow torch that will release it. Then the ring spanner and WD 40 slow movements up and down.
Always be prepared to cut things , cut the knob off the rusty bolt. Then you’d get the shallow socket on. Also get a set of twist sockets for removing rusted disintegrated bolts and nuts. Also with having an impact driver, the hand held verity that you hit with a hammer.
I'll give you some advice so you don't hurt yourself !!! The open end of a Spanner is Useless and only to be used when you can not fit the Ring end or Socket on to the bolt/fastner because it will slip and damage the fastner. Clean and soak that rusty bolt - pull off the rubber boot seal and Hammer on a 6 point impact socket (find the correct size from the better side) You get one shot at rusty bolts, use a Nut Gun really or a short bar and hammer to shock it - a gentle slow pull with a big bar often breaks the bolt.
Rusty hole aside, get yourself to Halfords at the very minimum and buy yourself a decent socket set! My tip for Rusty headed nuts and bolts is to get a small set of six pointed sockets as they’re less likely to slip like the 12 pointed ones would 👍🏼
@@Gttttstheir “Halfords advanced” stuff is surprisingly good, especially for the home mechanic. I’ve used it on heavy stuff like landrovers with no issues. Lifetime warranty too.
I bought a Range Rover Vogue it has a BMW DIESEL engine .. mine is a 55 plate in exact same colour.. but my interior is lush two tone colour blue and beige.. Its not done many miles 112.000 just about. I am still learning about the car as it threw a few problems and I never test drove before I bought it.. But then again did I pay too much £2700. Suspension issues.? and a speed limiter thingy @ 30mph.. but if when I start the car and there is a red dot on centre console it drive okay. I've had a busy week doing two mots on my other cars Jaguar 4.0 XJ8 It needed 4 patches welding, funny as the car got damaged but in all my ownership of cars the garage repaired the paintwork 100% impressed they repaired it. And My Audi A6 Estate 2.7 TDI failed on springs but again wow the car now looks amazing and it cost me £390 I nearly sent my car to a garage in Wrexham that does a full rebuild suspension with VAG parts for £850 but its MOT for another year and the only real thing I want to do is put 4 top of the range tyres on it.. cost effective i am not sure because the front tyres wear out in under 15.000 miles.. Good video..
Can't remember what it's called but I sprayed mine with something that turned the rust solid. Then wd40 and a pair of mole grips. Took a little while but it came out. Keep us updated.
Nice to see you have a go. to help you succeed please consider using the correct tools .1 pull hard on the rubber seal and it will pull off allowing you more space.2 use an eight point ring spanner and unscrew the upper strap fitting .clean off any corrosion repaint before refitting the replacement tail gate support. Additional l information to get at the back of the upper support mount remove the rear light cluster. you will then be able to see the back of the upper mounting screw clean and spray with WD40 you will then be more successful removing the upper mount without causing unnecessary damage .hope this helps keep up with the videos
You can update that to a small gas strut and get rid of the cable , can’t remember where I bought mine but try powerful I’ve used em on L322 and my L405
I'm pretty old but I have been bodging things for most of my adult life. My success rate is around 10% but the 90% failure rate is worth it for the sheer fist pumping joy when your bodging works. I applaud your efforts.
Find what size tool you need on the good non-rusted side. Then use a deep socket of the correct size, hammer it on (a six sided socket ideally as won't round so easily) and it should come off. With the correct tools and experience it's a five minute job.
I had exactly the same problem with a 2011 L322 that I bought 18 months ago, however my problem was worse. Try a ring spanner rather than an open ended one as that is less likely to slip off. If the nut has been rounded off then perhaps try mole grips instead. Once you get the bolt out check the captive nut in the body is ok, as mine had rusted into a hole and the nut had fallen down the back never to be seen again. I had to fix that by taking the light cluster off and using a large washer and a normal nut at the back which was accessed through a hole that someone had previously made in the panel (a bit of a bodge job). I would suggest you clean and paint with some hammerite to protect it against further rust. The cable also needs to be one with a nipple on it for a small gas strut to be fitted and connected to the drop down tailgate to slow its fall. Hope this helps and you get it sorted. - Best Regards, Steve.
you should change the rusty hardware above the broken cable too. both sides. you wanna do it right and complete. replace all the rusted parts. including the metal stop post above the broken rusty cable. or at least remove it and paint it with black paint.
Clean the bolt with a small wire brush. Spray with WD-40 and leave to soak, keep spraying every 20 mins for a few times. You're rounding the head of the bolt. You need a pair of vice grip pliers or mole grips as they used to be called. I've never failed to remove a nut or bolt with vice grip pliers.
Your lower tailgate looks to be of an earlier generation L322 rather than 2010 facelift as it has no damper bracket. You also look to have the wrong strap to replace it with because it’s supposed to have a knuckle on it to pick up the damper. You will probably find it will need cutting out and the captive nut will come away inside the light cluster so we need a bit of work to fix. It’s a common problem. My current one has the same issue so when I replace the straps, I had to take the light cluster out and put the bolt back on under the light cluster.
I like watching your videos for lots of reasons but mostly, and because it’s unusual, you may find this strange (I hope not) but you speak properly, perfect dictation, no bad language, know wot I mean innit bruv.😂😂
I had the exact same issue on mine. You will find that both sides are the same. Yes wd40 to soak then pipe grips as the head of the bolts may be to rusted.
9:03 I'd say that's just the end on the cable that's stuck in the main attachment to the car crunching around. There's no movement when you're moving the rubber sleeve at the body fixing so don't worry about that noise. WD40 is good but I'd say use something like Bull Dog DBX spray or we use a brilliant spray at work from Power Max or Rustoff from Würth that attacks the rust and would hopefully free off the fixing to the body. Also sometimes not to stop you're DIY learning but the old saying of "A little knowledge is dangerous" is coming in here. Watch a few RUclips videos about removing that problem bolt, you're going need possibly a bit of heat to warm up the bolt and a round off sockets (Irwins are a good brand and readily available) to bite into the rusted bolt head and hopefully extract it. Go to Halfords and buy yourselves one of their complete socket sets. With better tools will make jobs essier as you'll have the right size needed to tackle jobs. B&Q 20 quid kits aren't worth the money!! I bought a cheap set from Halfords just for home use and within a week if chucked most of it in the bin and replaced it with tools from work which needed to replace for everyday use which were better quality from the start. Can't complain about Halfords tools I've used them for years and they've taken some serious abuse!! Plus lifetime guarantee too!! 😃
You’re also missing the damper that fits onto the ball stud at the end of the cable fixing and lower tailgate, part number LRO17455. And the correct cable strap with the ball stud on is LR017461.
It’s supposed to be tighter on that side as the tailgate damper is supposed to be there but yours is missing!! 😮 The right hand strap is different as it has the ball socket on the end if you want to fit the missing damper? You will have to order the correct part from LR!! 😊
What u should have done. Use the good side to find the correct size socket. Then put the socket on the rusty side and hammer it on over the rust. Then undo with ratchet and socket
Thanks Lucy for showing that yes how frustrating that was i guess really needs sooking in wd40 then get a mole rench on it think then it may work ,good luck love to see the outcome
You know it needs a new piece of metal welding in, right? Sounds much worse than it is but go to a good smallish garage where they know what they’re doing and the rates won’t be high.
use the ring side of the spanner, gentally tip it with a hammer, increase the strength till it loosens. you can use a bit of metal tubing or another spanner to extend. Or a crows foot spanner. Whatever, be careful not to round the nut or snap it off. W
Bella reminds me of that twilight parody. It's 14 years old but still on youtube called - Twilight: Eclipse Trailer (Parody) jacksfilms you hear bella a lot.
You are missing the gas strut from that side that is what the ball is for that is getting in the way of your small socket. The gas strut regulates the fall down of the lower tail gate.
You're in danger of rounding that nut off, however penetrating fluid then get some heat on it to expand the metal and break the rust bond. Use the fully round end of the spanner on it, use a tube over the top for more leverage - remember your physics? - but be prepared that grinding it off maybe the only way. If any of that works you then need to work out why that area is so wet..
Hi, check that you have the correct size spanner by from the good side bolt, always but always use the ring side of a spanner on difficult bolts it grips much better and is less likely to ruin the bolt. you should have left the rubber boot on and worked the rubber boot opening to the top and filled it with wd40 and left it overnight to soak in, good luck.
Change the other side. In case it goes the same way. At least you then have one strong one. Definitely soak the rusty one in plusgas let it soak in for a while before trying to remove it
We in Australia have a great penetrative liquid to loosen rust issues just like that. It's called Inox ...maybe you can get it in UK. Forget the WD40 and such they are no where in the same league as Inox.
This is a bit of constructive advice and not critiscism. As an ex mechanic myself, taking short cuts is never a good idea. There's no short fix to this and ultimately the longer you leave it the further the rust is going to spread. You know that you are going to have to spend money to have it fixed properly and that's not going to be a DIY job. The P38 Range Rovers before the L322 were the same with rusty tailgates and Land Rover never really improved from there. The fact that one side has got that bad to me is a bit odd. Perhaps there has already been repairs to the opposite side at some stage too, or accident damage etc. I think the clue is with the plug connector under the floor mat being disconnected which was stopping the tailgate from opening. I think that's a second hand tailgate. It's a common place to rust where the lugs and straps connect. The rubber boots are there to stop water getting in but I think they actually do bugger all and in fact allow water to sit there. Someone below said about taking the light clusters out which is a good idea and check the state of the metal behind them. To repair the rust properly, the clusters are going to have to come out anyway so you might aswell have a look behind them now. Now you know this, I would strongly suggest that you take all the wheelarch liners out and check behind them for corrosion, especially where the lower sills meet the wheelarches. Take all protective covers off the sill and clean the sills properly. The sill covers allow the dirt etc to sit there and the moisture gets in and the dirt etc starts eating away at the metal from the inside out and you don't see it until it's too late. Whoever diagnosed the switch has no clue what they are doing. I wouldn't go there again. Looking at a wiring diagram would have showed that there was a connector into the main harness and they should then have done checks between the connector under the boot mat and the switch end of the harness. That would have revealed to them that the connector was unplugged.
Soak it in wd40 for a day or 2 then get a pair of mole grips locked onto it , looks like a spanner will just round off the nut ( make sure the grips are as tight as they can possibly be) good luck ❤
Soak it in WD40 , take light cluster off not a hard job clean all the rust area up get some anti rust paint & I would put a metal plate in the inside of the cluster to strengthen
Even if you get that off there's likely to be a rusty hole. It looks to me that the old metal needs to be cut out and a small plate welded in. Good luck.
Bash it with a hammer Lucy. Not even joking. Put a ring spanner (the longer the better) on it and tap the end of the fitting with a hammer. This will help break the rust. Good luck...
Hello Hello, You love Range Rover and repair them by yourself. If You are stuck like this time, You can contact one Master Mechanic whose channel name is "LR Time". I am really impressed with how He fixes Range Rover. Thanks.
No, no, no! Not flippin WD40!!! PlusGas is the best thing for rusty nuts (oooh er!) Give it several soakings of the stuf over a couple of days, then one last one immediately before trying to undo. And use a ratchet spanner or socket - never an open ended - on something like that Once it's out and the true extent is clear, then find a small garage that does welding - they're usually quite economic. The tailgate switch - TOLD YOU!!! Been commenting from the start that that tailgate had been off the vehicle and not put back properly. Switch dead? My ar*e!!! Said it was a connector...... and was. Hang on - Where's the gas strut that should be on that side? They're fairly cheap to buy (aftermarket ones are pretty good, but genuine LR isn't much more) and you'll kill two birds with one stone (new strut and cable mounting)
Hi Lucy, I think what your videos illustrate is that you have to be a certain type of person to buy an ageing Range Rover, and cheerfully accept all the problems you will encounter. I guess if it makes content for your videos, there is a positive side for you.
![Twenty One Pilots - “The Line” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/E2Rj2gQAyPA/mqdefault.jpg)
You’ll feel better removing the strap, clean and rectify the rust by also removing the tail light cluster, then refit the new strap!
That is a special bolt in that side with a ball end for the gas strut to attach to that slows the decent of the lower tailgate, if the bolt is mashed you will have to buy the bolt and strap from Landrover not available separately, or do away with the gas strut and fit a new bolt and strap this will fix the issue
Wd 40, wire brush and leave for while. Do the other side to see how it is done. Great video Lucy, just go for it. 👍👍👍👍
Try the spanners/sockets on the good side first to make sure you have the right size.
Set of Irwin or similar removal sockets needed. They are designed to grip nuts and bolts that are rusted to a different size and have hexagonal heads on which you can fit a normal spanner / open wrench. They work brilliantly from my experience. Looks like it is too far gone and side piece will need cutting out / plate welding back on to restore mounting rigidity.
One of my favourites so far! I personally would love to see the journey you have with Bella more than anything!
If this was in my workshop, Soak for a few days with Plusgas fast release, Remove door seal, Choose Correct Deep socket, working it lose then tight, If the bolt is visible from behide the light cluster spray there too. Finger crossed it undoes.
What he said, plus 'snap-tighten' the bolt - only needs a 1/8th of a turn - and 'should' free up. Plenty of PlusGas beforehand though
Love the videos, always look forward to the next one
Hi Lucy, two options here. 1. Get an angle grinder and a metal cutting blade and cut the ball off the end so you can get a shallow socked on the nut and 2. Get a pair of footprint pliers. (Mini stilsons) and try those with an extension of some sort. I'm a plumber so I use my top hat box spanner for extra leverage. I often end up using my plumbing tools to fix my Bentley! :) best of luck
Agree that using WD40 might help. Fun fact the L322 was developed by BMW, I think that's why it's the best looking iteration to date. Still uses BMW parts even in the later versions. Good luck.
@@ChrisPatrick-q6k each has their own opinion but for me, the original L322 is the most beautiful iteration of the Range Rover line.
Missing the gas strut from that right hand side too
Lucy, this is why I enjoy your videos with your Range Rover. You never know what will need to be fixed next 😮
Has to be a ring spanner soak with wd40 overnight. Tap on with a hammer work it up and down till you get movement. If you’re careful add a bit of heat from a blow torch that will release it. Then the ring spanner and WD 40 slow movements up and down.
Always be prepared to cut things , cut the knob off the rusty bolt. Then you’d get the shallow socket on.
Also get a set of twist sockets for removing rusted disintegrated bolts and nuts.
Also with having an impact driver, the hand held verity that you hit with a hammer.
I'll give you some advice so you don't hurt yourself !!!
The open end of a Spanner is Useless and only to be used when you can not fit the Ring end or Socket on to the bolt/fastner because it will slip and damage the fastner.
Clean and soak that rusty bolt - pull off the rubber boot seal and Hammer on a 6 point impact socket (find the correct size from the better side) You get one shot at rusty bolts, use a Nut Gun really or a short bar and hammer to shock it - a gentle slow pull with a big bar often breaks the bolt.
Rusty hole aside, get yourself to Halfords at the very minimum and buy yourself a decent socket set! My tip for Rusty headed nuts and bolts is to get a small set of six pointed sockets as they’re less likely to slip like the 12 pointed ones would 👍🏼
Halford is for diy idiots to shop at
@@P6UL_K a decent socket set at Halfords lol
@@Gttttstheir “Halfords advanced” stuff is surprisingly good, especially for the home mechanic. I’ve used it on heavy stuff like landrovers with no issues. Lifetime warranty too.
Confident you'll get it sorted, looking forward to the follow up video.
I bought a Range Rover Vogue it has a BMW DIESEL engine .. mine is a 55 plate in exact same colour.. but my interior is lush two tone colour blue and beige.. Its not done many miles 112.000 just about.
I am still learning about the car as it threw a few problems and I never test drove before I bought it.. But then again did I pay too much £2700.
Suspension issues.?
and a speed limiter thingy @ 30mph.. but if when I start the car and there is a red dot on centre console it drive okay.
I've had a busy week doing two mots on my other cars Jaguar 4.0 XJ8 It needed 4 patches welding, funny as the car got damaged but in all my ownership of cars the garage repaired the paintwork 100% impressed they repaired it.
And My Audi A6 Estate 2.7 TDI failed on springs but again wow the car now looks amazing and it cost me £390 I nearly sent my car to a garage in Wrexham that does a full rebuild suspension with VAG parts for £850 but its MOT for another year and the only real thing I want to do is put 4 top of the range tyres on it.. cost effective i am not sure because the front tyres wear out in under 15.000 miles..
Good video..
If boot has had its respray, check rear arches for filler and behind sill covers, also check rear subframe as it could be very rotten.
Can't remember what it's called but I sprayed mine with something that turned the rust solid. Then wd40 and a pair of mole grips. Took a little while but it came out. Keep us updated.
Nice to see you have a go. to help you succeed please consider using the correct tools .1 pull hard on the rubber seal and it will pull off allowing you more space.2 use an eight point ring spanner and unscrew the upper strap fitting .clean off any corrosion repaint before refitting the replacement tail gate support. Additional l information to get at the back of the upper support mount remove the rear light cluster. you will then be able to see the back of the upper mounting screw clean and spray with WD40 you will then be more successful removing the upper mount without causing unnecessary damage .hope this helps keep up with the videos
You can update that to a small gas strut and get rid of the cable , can’t remember where I bought mine but try powerful I’ve used em on L322 and my L405
I'm pretty old but I have been bodging things for most of my adult life. My success rate is around 10% but the 90% failure rate is worth it for the sheer fist pumping joy when your bodging works. I applaud your efforts.
Ha!
Love it!
The rubber boot trim should be easy to pull off to give you more room, worst case a set of vice grips
My thoughts exactly. I’d have the grips on it with a good soak in WD.
Find what size tool you need on the good non-rusted side. Then use a deep socket of the correct size, hammer it on (a six sided socket ideally as won't round so easily) and it should come off. With the correct tools and experience it's a five minute job.
I had exactly the same problem with a 2011 L322 that I bought 18 months ago, however my problem was worse. Try a ring spanner rather than an open ended one as that is less likely to slip off. If the nut has been rounded off then perhaps try mole grips instead. Once you get the bolt out check the captive nut in the body is ok, as mine had rusted into a hole and the nut had fallen down the back never to be seen again. I had to fix that by taking the light cluster off and using a large washer and a normal nut at the back which was accessed through a hole that someone had previously made in the panel (a bit of a bodge job). I would suggest you clean and paint with some hammerite to protect it against further rust. The cable also needs to be one with a nipple on it for a small gas strut to be fitted and connected to the drop down tailgate to slow its fall. Hope this helps and you get it sorted. - Best Regards, Steve.
Common mod done on these. Ring spanner is more likely to round out a head than an open end though.
Could you replace the complete bracket? You would only have to remove the 2 torque heads.
you should change the rusty hardware above the broken cable too. both sides. you wanna do it right and complete. replace all the rusted parts. including the metal stop post above the broken rusty cable. or at least remove it and paint it with black paint.
Clean the bolt with a small wire brush. Spray with WD-40 and leave to soak, keep spraying every 20 mins for a few times.
You're rounding the head of the bolt. You need a pair of vice grip pliers or mole grips as they used to be called. I've never failed to remove a nut or bolt with vice grip pliers.
Your lower tailgate looks to be of an earlier generation L322 rather than 2010 facelift as it has no damper bracket. You also look to have the wrong strap to replace it with because it’s supposed to have a knuckle on it to pick up the damper. You will probably find it will need cutting out and the captive nut will come away inside the light cluster so we need a bit of work to fix. It’s a common problem. My current one has the same issue so when I replace the straps, I had to take the light cluster out and put the bolt back on under the light cluster.
I like watching your videos for lots of reasons but mostly, and because it’s unusual, you may find this strange (I hope not) but you speak properly, perfect dictation, no bad language, know wot I mean innit bruv.😂😂
I would question the 'perfect diction' but it's clearly spoken.
😆😆😆🤣🤣🤣 sweet girl ...biggest tool is other🌓 😳 " rusty hole ' 😂😂
Thumbs up for IT Crowd reference!
I had the exact same issue on mine. You will find that both sides are the same. Yes wd40 to soak then pipe grips as the head of the bolts may be to rusted.
Also use a ring spanner , that grips around whole head, not open end , which has caused head to round of …
I love you L322 Lucy my favourite interior.
9:03 I'd say that's just the end on the cable that's stuck in the main attachment to the car crunching around. There's no movement when you're moving the rubber sleeve at the body fixing so don't worry about that noise. WD40 is good but I'd say use something like Bull Dog DBX spray or we use a brilliant spray at work from Power Max or Rustoff from Würth that attacks the rust and would hopefully free off the fixing to the body.
Also sometimes not to stop you're DIY learning but the old saying of "A little knowledge is dangerous" is coming in here. Watch a few RUclips videos about removing that problem bolt, you're going need possibly a bit of heat to warm up the bolt and a round off sockets (Irwins are a good brand and readily available) to bite into the rusted bolt head and hopefully extract it.
Go to Halfords and buy yourselves one of their complete socket sets. With better tools will make jobs essier as you'll have the right size needed to tackle jobs. B&Q 20 quid kits aren't worth the money!! I bought a cheap set from Halfords just for home use and within a week if chucked most of it in the bin and replaced it with tools from work which needed to replace for everyday use which were better quality from the start. Can't complain about Halfords tools I've used them for years and they've taken some serious abuse!! Plus lifetime guarantee too!! 😃
Really enjoying your videos recently
You need a correct size ring spanner (to stop it slipping off) if this does not work because the bolt is rounded-off, use locking 'mole' grips
Lucy , take it , it’s not usable anyway, could be just surface rust
Take it , could just need grinding away then treat ..
Great channel ❤
You’re also missing the damper that fits onto the ball stud at the end of the cable fixing and lower tailgate, part number LRO17455. And the correct cable strap with the ball stud on is LR017461.
Also looks to be missing the damper bracket on the lower tailgate too.
@@ianmacdonald8260 Good spot, lower tailgate from a pre 2010 model.
It’s supposed to be tighter on that side as the tailgate damper is supposed to be there but yours is missing!! 😮
The right hand strap is different as it has the ball socket on the end if you want to fit the missing damper?
You will have to order the correct part from LR!! 😊
What u should have done. Use the good side to find the correct size socket. Then put the socket on the rusty side and hammer it on over the rust. Then undo with ratchet and socket
If it's wet there's a leak. Just attack it with a wire brush, if solid enough, some rust eater, rust primer and a put of paint, good as new.
Thanks Lucy for showing that yes how frustrating that was i guess really needs sooking in wd40 then get a mole rench on it think then it may work ,good luck love to see the outcome
They're called Lower boot tethers Lucy 😁👍
Was the tailgate like that when you bought the car. 🤔 seller disconnected the tailgate switch so you couldn’t see any of that?
You know it needs a new piece of metal welding in, right?
Sounds much worse than it is but go to a good smallish garage where they know what they’re doing and the rates won’t be high.
use the ring side of the spanner, gentally tip it with a hammer, increase the strength till it loosens. you can use a bit of metal tubing or another spanner to extend. Or a crows foot spanner. Whatever, be careful not to round the nut or snap it off. W
Bella is a perfect name!
Bella reminds me of that twilight parody. It's 14 years old but still on youtube called - Twilight: Eclipse Trailer (Parody)
jacksfilms
you hear bella a lot.
If you're not sure how a part is attached, look at the new part and it will help.
You are missing the gas strut from that side that is what the ball is for that is getting in the way of your small socket. The gas strut regulates the fall down of the lower tail gate.
You're in danger of rounding that nut off, however penetrating fluid then get some heat on it to expand the metal and break the rust bond.
Use the fully round end of the spanner on it, use a tube over the top for more leverage - remember your physics? - but be prepared that grinding it off maybe the only way.
If any of that works you then need to work out why that area is so wet..
Hi, check that you have the correct size spanner by from the good side bolt,
always but always use the ring side of a spanner on difficult bolts it grips much better and is less likely to ruin the bolt.
you should have left the rubber boot on and worked the rubber boot opening to the top and filled it with wd40 and left it overnight to soak in, good luck.
You need a full size ring spanner on that Lucy!! Not those Little toy tools!! 😊
Change the other side. In case it goes the same way. At least you then have one strong one. Definitely soak the rusty one in plusgas let it soak in for a while before trying to remove it
We in Australia have a great penetrative liquid to loosen rust issues just like that. It's called Inox ...maybe you can get it in UK. Forget the WD40 and such they are no where in the same league as Inox.
you need WD40 on the bolt and a ring spanner and then paint the rust with a rust converter 😊
Great name Lucy - Bella was my Mum's name.
I love you from Morocco 🎉🎉
Where did you buy the bits for boot
The crunching will be the wire strands. Remove the old unit. Clean it up. Fix a new wire cable.
Thats an awkward area of rust but hopefully you can repair the panel so you can attach the new bolt and strap.
Soak it in WD-40 for a few hours and use a ring spanner or ratchet spanner before you round the nut!
This is a bit of constructive advice and not critiscism.
As an ex mechanic myself, taking short cuts is never a good idea. There's no short fix to this and ultimately the longer you leave it the further the rust is going to spread.
You know that you are going to have to spend money to have it fixed properly and that's not going to be a DIY job. The P38 Range Rovers before the L322 were the same with rusty tailgates and Land Rover never really improved from there. The fact that one side has got that bad to me is a bit odd. Perhaps there has already been repairs to the opposite side at some stage too, or accident damage etc. I think the clue is with the plug connector under the floor mat being disconnected which was stopping the tailgate from opening. I think that's a second hand tailgate. It's a common place to rust where the lugs and straps connect. The rubber boots are there to stop water getting in but I think they actually do bugger all and in fact allow water to sit there. Someone below said about taking the light clusters out which is a good idea and check the state of the metal behind them. To repair the rust properly, the clusters are going to have to come out anyway so you might aswell have a look behind them now.
Now you know this, I would strongly suggest that you take all the wheelarch liners out and check behind them for corrosion, especially where the lower sills meet the wheelarches. Take all protective covers off the sill and clean the sills properly. The sill covers allow the dirt etc to sit there and the moisture gets in and the dirt etc starts eating away at the metal from the inside out and you don't see it until it's too late.
Whoever diagnosed the switch has no clue what they are doing. I wouldn't go there again. Looking at a wiring diagram would have showed that there was a connector into the main harness and they should then have done checks between the connector under the boot mat and the switch end of the harness. That would have revealed to them that the connector was unplugged.
Just cut the ball off the rusty bolt, so you can use the right nut to unscrew the old bolt😉😊
just get some six sided ring spanners , thanks for the video
Spray it in plusgas that should loosen it up 👍🏻 🔧
I do enjoy your videos:)
Soak it in wd40 for a day or 2 then get a pair of mole grips locked onto it , looks like a spanner will just round off the nut ( make sure the grips are as tight as they can possibly be) good luck ❤
It’s missing the additional damper too
Was going to say the same 👍
Soak it in WD40 , take light cluster off not a hard job clean all the rust area up get some anti rust paint & I would put a metal plate in the inside of the cluster to strengthen
A cranked spanner?
Best called 'Bagonails'
WD-40 is your friend, and mole grips, if you have rounded the fitting 🤞 👍
Yes - on it!
someome get lucy a halfords tool kit
Same name has my dog ❤
Hi, the boot switch should have a waterproof rubber cover over it.
I believe that she put the cover back on at 5:12
Even if you get that off there's likely to be a rusty hole. It looks to me that the old metal needs to be cut out and a small plate welded in. Good luck.
Have you tried a monkey wrench.
Clamp it on and turn.
Or a tight fitting ring spanner maybe.
I’m sad too😊
A trip to Halfords for long sockets
Landrovers are horrific. Glad i got rid of mine.
Let is soak up some WD40 .. Then it's a Vise Grip job locked onto the ball at end.
Great video, channel though!
Remove the trim to get socket access.
Use plusgas rather than wd40. wd40 *isn't* mean to be used as a penetrating oil. it's for displacing moisture around electrics.
Pull the rubber trim off. It just pushed back on.
Bash it with a hammer Lucy. Not even joking.
Put a ring spanner (the longer the better) on it and tap the end of the fitting with a hammer. This will help break the rust.
Good luck...
Hello Hello, You love Range Rover and repair them by yourself. If You are stuck like this time, You can contact one Master Mechanic whose channel name is "LR Time". I am really impressed with how He fixes Range Rover. Thanks.
Lucy it's easy fix just take it to a garage they will have the correct socket and take 2mins
This is my usual fix but I really wanted to be able to do this myself 😂
Rust gives me too much anxiety these days. I don't think that bolt is ever coming out.
Lefty loose'e righty tight'y. Lucy you spanner. Good effort though. Spray on some loose oil and try again later.
I was turning lefty loosey - hence why the car was lifting up 😂
Did I miss the bet where you ended up wearing those glasses? 🤔
Yes!
Yea
Something I learnt about owning 2 old range rovers, dont fix them yourself. 😂😂 mine was sat in my drive with the engine all apart for 2 months. 😂😂
Ouch 😂
you need a ring spanner
bella blue
WD40 !!!! Ahhhhhhh
I was correct with the name😊 what do I win, what do I win? 😂
A pat on the back 😂
@@LucyOnCars harsh that 🤣
No, no, no! Not flippin WD40!!! PlusGas is the best thing for rusty nuts (oooh er!) Give it several soakings of the stuf over a couple of days, then one last one immediately before trying to undo. And use a ratchet spanner or socket - never an open ended - on something like that
Once it's out and the true extent is clear, then find a small garage that does welding - they're usually quite economic.
The tailgate switch - TOLD YOU!!! Been commenting from the start that that tailgate had been off the vehicle and not put back properly. Switch dead? My ar*e!!! Said it was a connector...... and was.
Hang on - Where's the gas strut that should be on that side? They're fairly cheap to buy (aftermarket ones are pretty good, but genuine LR isn't much more) and you'll kill two birds with one stone (new strut and cable mounting)
Hi Lucy, I think what your videos illustrate is that you have to be a certain type of person to buy an ageing Range Rover, and cheerfully accept all the problems you will encounter. I guess if it makes content for your videos, there is a positive side for you.