2:58 friction is NOT dependent on the surface area of the contact. It depends on the coefficient of friction (you got thus one right) and the force applied perpendicularly to the surface. It goes against our instinct but the surface does not matter in and of itself (it rather always impacts the force, making it an unexpected proxy for it)
Yeah I was debating adding that to the video, completely agree with u, in classical physics friction is independent of SA (if the normal force is constant). However, in a climbing context I think friction is highly dependent on the SA that your fingers come into contact with the hold. Since the force u can apply to the hold is dependent on the SA of the holds, ie. bigger hold, more force, as a result, more SA would mean higher coefficients of friction and thus “more friction”, I don’t wanna go into the whole molecule interaction between a malleable surface and a textured rigid one, I’m still traumatized from IB HL physics but I hear and agree w u, just not in this context
@@bao.ng04 well I did say that the SA is a proxy for the force, which is why the confusion is understandably made. I just wanted to state things properly. I agree that it is weird though In any case your video's good man, I did learn things that I will try to incorporate in the future
Totally see the thought here. ESP w the high energy vloggers that were around ~2018, they made that cutting popular. But we’re not here for pure dopamine, we care about what you say!
It’s a dremel! Originally made for like small wood working projects or things but u could get one on amazon or in Home Depot, I suggest u buy the mini one if ur just gonna use it for sanding!
I just take the daily recommended amount of whatever it says on my collagen supplement, rmb to use type 2. Sometimes I’ll take a little bit more than the daily dose but bc collagen is water-soluble ull just pee out excess collagen
good vid but collagen cant be absorbed by the body in its whole form and thus needs to be broken down before being rebuilt and usually the availability of precursor amino acids isnt the limiting factor for collagen production so the supplement doesnt rlly do anything. I'm also a lil skeptical of rhino products bc beyond moisturization I'm not aware of what specific mechanisms they have to aid skin repair. if you have more info pls lmk tho!
Collagen) of course collagen has to be broken down into its constituent amino acids but if you are sufficiently nourished, which I made clear that you had to be in order for this method to be effective, you increase the ratio of glycine and proline availability, which, could, and at least in my experience and the experience of those around me does make a difference in how fast our skin grows. Rhino skin) if it didn’t work, the company would go bankrupt.
@bao.ng04 if ur getting sufficient protein intake overall, adding collagen supps wont increase the amount of gly/pro/hydroxypro being used for collagen production. as with rhino skin, the argument that its effective just because its not out of business is not great. the supplement industry generates billions yearly, with most of the supplements having zero scientific backing and relying entirely on placebo. I'm not arguing that these dont work, just that I'm not clear on their mechanism.
@@bao.ng04 while your experience (and others as you said) may have some validity, claiming it's "scientific" because of those said experiences is a bit disingenuous. Collagen supplement has a bad rep to those who actually look at these studies because like you said, the amino acid is required for collagen production, however it's best taken from food as opposed to supplements. If you consider the cost aspect and environmental impact/waste these supplements have, just eating healthier/higher protein diet is such a smarter and better choice. regarding your statement on rhino skin, again, whether it "scientifically" works is definitely debatable, a lot of companies do create product that don't necessarily work as well as they advertise or is aligned with "scientifically" working. Can it help with skin? yes, so can other skin product/lotions that basically do the same thing minus the upcharged prices a lot of these "climbing" product have. Also placebo sometimes work because people believe them to be (and the very same people will say it's NOT placebo). You can't necessarily tie a causation to your experiences without actual scientific backing/research/case studies.
@@bao.ng04 The problem is that those amino acids are not mediators of skin repair/growth. That is, simply having more of them does not mean you will grow more skin, you still need another mechanism to actually trigger the additional growth.
Yeah u could use antihydral cream, which blocks ur pours from secreting moisture. U could also avoid making ur fingers cold to allow a constant flow of blood for adequate nutrient transportation and recovery.
whats your process for using rhino products. ofc i know to use repair when its dry and performance when my skins a bit thicker, but do you use it each at different parts of the day? before sessions? right after ?
I actually had no idea abt the rapid when dry performance when thick. I use it before bed every night, no matter how thick or thin my fingers are, but I’ll use repair, let it mostly dry, then performance and go to sleep
I think the biggest takeaway from this video is definitely calling sessions early, very little improvement is made by going too far into a session and ruining the skin for nothing. I don't think that the issue with rough skin has much to do with friction but more so with the probability to have splits, if your skin is uneven with very dry parts in the way, it makes it really easy to split
i think for thin crimps or outdoor stuff especially, uneven skin makes it a lot harder to hold onto things like rounded crimps, but yes ur point of higher split risk is also valid
Hahaha yeah it went against every scientific physiological principle I had, but by the end it got me to be as strong as the outdoor v13 climbers at my gym. I was also expecting to be like aight today’s gonna be a rest day, but I kept feeling rly good, so why rest went I don’t feel the somatic or peripheral fatigue? They more learnt abt scientific training principles the more I realized why I was possible and effective but yeah crazy right
yeah I’ll make a video abt it eventually. But essentially yknow how every session kinda follows a peak curve and then decreases? You basically try and guess where that peak is and end it right as u pass ur peak of the session and then rest for next session
it can help for growing outdoor skin, which makes it tougher and stiffer, but it turn it won't be as good for the indoor stuff where more malleable skin is better. and its also easy to over do it and lose all your skin outdoors
hahaha yeah but u don't get as much variety and become a well rounded climber if u do that. plus not everyone has access to wood holds unfortunately 😔 back in Vietnam the few woods holds we have would soak up the humidity and every time we squeeze it juice would come out haahahah
2:58 friction is NOT dependent on the surface area of the contact. It depends on the coefficient of friction (you got thus one right) and the force applied perpendicularly to the surface. It goes against our instinct but the surface does not matter in and of itself (it rather always impacts the force, making it an unexpected proxy for it)
Yeah I was debating adding that to the video, completely agree with u, in classical physics friction is independent of SA (if the normal force is constant). However, in a climbing context I think friction is highly dependent on the SA that your fingers come into contact with the hold. Since the force u can apply to the hold is dependent on the SA of the holds, ie. bigger hold, more force, as a result, more SA would mean higher coefficients of friction and thus “more friction”, I don’t wanna go into the whole molecule interaction between a malleable surface and a textured rigid one, I’m still traumatized from IB HL physics but I hear and agree w u, just not in this context
@@bao.ng04 well I did say that the SA is a proxy for the force, which is why the confusion is understandably made. I just wanted to state things properly. I agree that it is weird though
In any case your video's good man, I did learn things that I will try to incorporate in the future
Lessss go another video!!!!! Peak quality as always 😎
hahahah thanks hun my video consultant and final private judge 👩⚖️
Nice video! Maybe you shouldn’t make cuts between your words, I think it takes out the natural effect, just suggesting tho
No yeah that makes sense i think im still trying to figure out how to should cut my speech to make it sound natural. Thankyou for the input!
Totally see the thought here. ESP w the high energy vloggers that were around ~2018, they made that cutting popular. But we’re not here for pure dopamine, we care about what you say!
Where can you get a device such as at 2:30 & 2:33 and what is a called. Also what are the up and downsides compared to a regular skin file.
It’s a dremel! Originally made for like small wood working projects or things but u could get one on amazon or in Home Depot, I suggest u buy the mini one if ur just gonna use it for sanding!
How much collagen do you consume a day and what form?
I just take the daily recommended amount of whatever it says on my collagen supplement, rmb to use type 2. Sometimes I’ll take a little bit more than the daily dose but bc collagen is water-soluble ull just pee out excess collagen
good vid but collagen cant be absorbed by the body in its whole form and thus needs to be broken down before being rebuilt and usually the availability of precursor amino acids isnt the limiting factor for collagen production so the supplement doesnt rlly do anything. I'm also a lil skeptical of rhino products bc beyond moisturization I'm not aware of what specific mechanisms they have to aid skin repair. if you have more info pls lmk tho!
Collagen) of course collagen has to be broken down into its constituent amino acids but if you are sufficiently nourished, which I made clear that you had to be in order for this method to be effective, you increase the ratio of glycine and proline availability, which, could, and at least in my experience and the experience of those around me does make a difference in how fast our skin grows.
Rhino skin) if it didn’t work, the company would go bankrupt.
@bao.ng04 if ur getting sufficient protein intake overall, adding collagen supps wont increase the amount of gly/pro/hydroxypro being used for collagen production. as with rhino skin, the argument that its effective just because its not out of business is not great. the supplement industry generates billions yearly, with most of the supplements having zero scientific backing and relying entirely on placebo. I'm not arguing that these dont work, just that I'm not clear on their mechanism.
@@bao.ng04 while your experience (and others as you said) may have some validity, claiming it's "scientific" because of those said experiences is a bit disingenuous. Collagen supplement has a bad rep to those who actually look at these studies because like you said, the amino acid is required for collagen production, however it's best taken from food as opposed to supplements. If you consider the cost aspect and environmental impact/waste these supplements have, just eating healthier/higher protein diet is such a smarter and better choice.
regarding your statement on rhino skin, again, whether it "scientifically" works is definitely debatable, a lot of companies do create product that don't necessarily work as well as they advertise or is aligned with "scientifically" working. Can it help with skin? yes, so can other skin product/lotions that basically do the same thing minus the upcharged prices a lot of these "climbing" product have.
Also placebo sometimes work because people believe them to be (and the very same people will say it's NOT placebo). You can't necessarily tie a causation to your experiences without actual scientific backing/research/case studies.
@@bao.ng04
> Rhino skin) if it didn’t work, the company would go bankrupt.
most braindead youtuber
@@bao.ng04 The problem is that those amino acids are not mediators of skin repair/growth. That is, simply having more of them does not mean you will grow more skin, you still need another mechanism to actually trigger the additional growth.
Good tips! Any suggestions if I’m allergic to rhino products
Yeah u could use antihydral cream, which blocks ur pours from secreting moisture. U could also avoid making ur fingers cold to allow a constant flow of blood for adequate nutrient transportation and recovery.
whats your process for using rhino products. ofc i know to use repair when its dry and performance when my skins a bit thicker, but do you use it each at different parts of the day? before sessions? right after ?
I actually had no idea abt the rapid when dry performance when thick. I use it before bed every night, no matter how thick or thin my fingers are, but I’ll use repair, let it mostly dry, then performance and go to sleep
I think the biggest takeaway from this video is definitely calling sessions early, very little improvement is made by going too far into a session and ruining the skin for nothing.
I don't think that the issue with rough skin has much to do with friction but more so with the probability to have splits, if your skin is uneven with very dry parts in the way, it makes it really easy to split
i think for thin crimps or outdoor stuff especially, uneven skin makes it a lot harder to hold onto things like rounded crimps, but yes ur point of higher split risk is also valid
27 days on lowkey just braindead
Hahaha yeah it went against every scientific physiological principle I had, but by the end it got me to be as strong as the outdoor v13 climbers at my gym. I was also expecting to be like aight today’s gonna be a rest day, but I kept feeling rly good, so why rest went I don’t feel the somatic or peripheral fatigue? They more learnt abt scientific training principles the more I realized why I was possible and effective but yeah crazy right
Need a guide to 27 days on more lol, how long are your sessions?
yeah I’ll make a video abt it eventually. But essentially yknow how every session kinda follows a peak curve and then decreases? You basically try and guess where that peak is and end it right as u pass ur peak of the session and then rest for next session
Does climbing on real rocks helps growing better skin ?
it can help for growing outdoor skin, which makes it tougher and stiffer, but it turn it won't be as good for the indoor stuff where more malleable skin is better. and its also easy to over do it and lose all your skin outdoors
Ok beast
thankyou beast 💪
- Only climb on wooden holds.
hahaha yeah but u don't get as much variety and become a well rounded climber if u do that. plus not everyone has access to wood holds unfortunately 😔 back in Vietnam the few woods holds we have would soak up the humidity and every time we squeeze it juice would come out haahahah
@@bao.ng04 God damn haha. Yeah I'm fortunate to have a wooden spray wall.