VW A4: ALH TDI Brake booster removal
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- Опубликовано: 5 фев 2025
- Thomas
P.O. Box 83041
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Burnaby, BC
V5H 0A4
Canada
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My '02 Jetta, TDI, 5-speed booster needed replacement. The symptom was when the brake pedal was pushed there would be a "whoosh" sound coming from the brake pedal area into the cabin and the pedal would stick. Internet search revealed it was the booster. I found this video and it was spot on (as are all of Thomas' videos).
My biggest worry (from reading the internet) was getting the pedal detached from the booster rod. I bought the tool and it literally took 2 seconds to get the rod detached from the pedal following Thomas' video.
Thank you Thomas!
Thank you for sharing your DIY experience and thank you for watching!
Best damn video on RUclips for brake booster removal. I just got the tool through amazon today.
Thank you and thank you for watching!
Love watching your videos Thomas. Subscribed. They are number 1! Quiet, focused, no distractions. Amazed at how steady your head cam remains while you’re working? It stays fixed on the part at hand even in tough spots. It must be tough to film and work at the same time. You set the standard. Had the cheapest fix today. A one inch section of hose at the vacuum pump was cracked. Trim off the bad, reinstall, problem fixed. Lack of vacuum to the booster was the problem. Reading your other readers troubleshooting comments had me start at the pump and work to the booster. Everyone’s basic comments much appreciated. Great video. Great post. Thanks. John.
Thank you for watching & taking the time to comment!
Great video. This is my second time doing the job and I remember learning a lot from this video so I had to come back lol.
Thank you for your continued support! =)
I've noticed all 99-2004 Jettas and Golfs brake pedal will go to the floor if you keep a constant pressure on the pedal while the engine is running. If the engine is off the brake pedal is rock hard and will not go to the floor. From the forums this seems to be normal.
Should not go to the floor when running... anything more than 1/2 to 3/4, I would suspect that something is not right. I'm talking regular / moderate pressure applied. I'll check the next one I have my hands on... just to be sure I'm mistaken.
@@EXOVCDS
That would be greatly appreciated thnx
So.instead of buying the special tool to get the shaft off the back of the pedal i used 2 10 mm open end wrenches small ones and put one on either side pushed on the wrenches and pulled on the pedal.at the same time and voila it popped out and i was off to the races
Where there's a will... there's a way. Thanks for sharing!
You used the open side of the wrench ? How exactly did you place them to push ??
@josemanuelcabezasberrios380
$29
www.amazon.com/DPTOOL-Release-Compatible-Separation-Replace/dp/B0CDS13WDB/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=9HF4MDCYMA67&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.RYPRQ-95wgmxKA0ARrPk2ErSAkEfCyHGClrtGREXZP-F-RxbDNeFn19kbkVe2OKoltSrwuEIHLG4gOCh7nyktKAOuE_AwSS0zcBwexAMzCc43fPc-z5aYiNGAxIqQoFYFKnx2tDX6RyCuoY18_xSJ4C_LmNyq86zLMQptVpCRstz3I1iSyFNa7fCaDLv-iZdZL30I1GXB9MgGqhMHxBDQQ.alDafuAkVnf0AcH5ngW5JUdG_3Y1_bLLnDSs-kP3SHA&dib_tag=se&keywords=mk4+brake+pedal+tool&qid=1737320338&sprefix=mk4+brake+pedal+tool%2Caps%2C146&sr=8-1
On the Eurovan, they give you just enough wiggle in the brake lines so you can leave the master cylinder connected and pull out the booster from behind. Otherwise, you have to bleed the ABS pump etc. This was actually a harder job than on my Eurovan. I didn't have to disconnect any hydraulic lines and I don't recall needing any special tool to release the brake rod. I was kind of astounded at the price of a new booster, however.
Garth Goldberg I tend to remove more than I need to... I don't always consult the service manual. All the valving should be / stay closed / no air gets into the ABS (IIRC)... just a bleeding of the lines should be enough.
*****
Excellent Video!! I enjoy watching you videos, very helpful!!! I just changed my Brake Booster today
Thank you and thank you for watching!
friend just did this, engine was running very lean and mechanic saw it before, clamped the booster supply line to the engine and engine ran like a top, On removing the booster he noticed a bunch of the brake fluid in it, called the friend with a hey you adding fluid for a loss you never see where its dripping out? yes we did, well its your master cylinder thats bad at the rear seal, new cylinder and booster and car runs like a top
Thank you for sharing and thank you for watching!
@@EXOVCDS refreshing to find a fix thats for sure, He brings rust free stuff up from the southern US like the power steering hoses Rack lines for Mk4 and mentioned A4' rack lines and Routans are non procurable so gets those too
Thomas, I’ve seen a video of folks using small screwdrivers to release the ball from behind the pedal and then you pull pedal forward. Any thoughts?
Whatever works.
Hello, is it possible that you could tell me the measurements of the tip? That is to say, from the area that looks like a u to see if I can make one at home?
forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/another-mk4-homemade-brake-booster-shaft-removal-tool-and-you-can-remove-the-brake-pedal-without-removing-the-pedal-box.527930/
@@EXOVCDS I did not expect an answer that fast.. thanks bro I will do the same .
Thank you for watching!
You did a good job Thomas on replacing the brake booster. Who would have thought that you need a special tool to separate the rod from the booster? And speaking of tools, you look like you have a lot of special tools for whatever job comes along. Keep up the good work!
I didn't have the release tool for the first mk4 / A4 booster that I had to remove... I knew from the service info that it spreads the plastic retainer. Managed to use a screwdriver to spread the piece... but I remember fighting with it for quite some time. Ordered the tool that same day! All the other tool stickers you see there... were all bought because I needed them / the shop does not have them. Some were shipped over night... others I ordered because I will eventually need the tool.
Haha yeah I already tried with a screwdriver before I watched this video
Very impressive, thumbs up to you,,,you think it's the same process as a wv beetle
Pretty much the same, just less room on the Beetles.
Hi, thanks for a great video. I have only one suggestion for easier replacement. Instead of using the special tool T10006A (I tried, and it is very difficult). Just drag out the booster as long as possible and hold the possition. Have another guy drag back the brake pedal, and you ruin the plastic holder inside the pedal and the booster is loose. The plastic holder is cheaper than the tool (at least in Norway), and easy to install on the brake pedal. I bought the tool, didn't manage to use it, and ended up tearing apart the plantic holder in the brake pedal. It cost me arround 10 $ for the plastic holder, but the tool cost me about 60 $ (included tax and shipping from Germany). However, i saved a lot compared to let a workshop to the job :-)
Good tip. I have had good luck with the tool, but will keep your suggestion in mind! Thanks!
Hello sir, need some advise on this.
Please advise how to reach out to you.
Octavia mk1 2003 tdi brake problem.
I press the brakes with engine running, the pedal is spongy, comes back easily.
Engine off... also spongy?
Here because I replaced DMF on 2011 VW JETTA TDI 2.0L and brought the engine down quite a bit. Wondering where the booster hose is as my brakes are stiff as hell and didn’t want to perform test drive. Think it may have came disconnected idk..
Follow it from the booster to the vacuum pump. It either popped out of the booster or the plastic pipe separated somewhere.
@@EXOVCDS Ok, thank you! I did lower the engine quite a lot and thinking it may have popped off…
@@EXOVCDS found it it was popped out by the brake booster. Do I just pop it back in or how does it lock in place?
@@EXOVCDS Sure enough. It popped out from the booster. Thank you! Having breaks is a beautiful thing..
Question ? I have 2011 vw Jetta and is kinda hard when I press on them ? But a little context I have replace the vacuum pump!
Which engine?
@@EXOVCDS it’s a 2.5 !
Is the hose going to the booster ok?
@@EXOVCDS when I change the part I was really careful! But I will double check cause honestly I didn’t use a torque wrench! They tight but not like it would with a torque wrench! But the hose seems fine ! It would be obvious if it’s damage?
Could have a small crack?
I replaced mine and vacuum pump still hard I check for leaks and nothing what could be?
Year, make, model, engine?
Great video , now is time for mine booster , looks like when i brake brake harder it leaks vacuum inside
lolus pololus Let me know how it went.
it took me two hours with brake bleeding , very easy job , one more time thank for video very help full.
just a note, ive seen this job done WITHOUT removing the master cylinder and abs system, its a tight squeeze but worth it if you ask me to avoid all the extra work that comes with introducing air into the braking system.
There are many ways to tackle automotive repairs... I only have time to show things the way that I do them. Thanks for the info... I'm sure that viewers will find it handy!
Great video. So after I replaced my brake booster I’m now getting a brake pedal that goes to the floor and hissing from the pedal area and sounds like maybe the master cylinder. Zero brakes. Any idea what this could be ?
Used booster? All I can suggest is to recheck your work. If the pedal didn't go to the floor before the replacement, then it shouldn't now.
@@EXOVCDS yeah used booster , I noticed the master cylinder does not seem snug against the booster and when I move it around the air leak gets louder. All nuts are secured so I’m not sure what’s going on
Also didn’t bleed the brakes yet I just wanted to test my work quick and noticed this hissing sound from pedal , would not bleeding them cause this ? I will bleed them but want to figure out the issue first
If the pushrod inside the booster is not sitting correctly inside / against the master cylinder, it will create a low brake pedal as well as possibly not allow the booster to sit flat against the master cylinder. You should only have to bleed at the master cylinder where the lines attach... but bleeding at all the wheels will insure that other trapped air can also come out. If everything is sitting correctly and all the air is out... but the hissing continues, then the used booster is faulty ( my guess).
@@EXOVCDS Commenting from my other account, actually was wrong about the hissing from the pedal, its just a loud vacuum hissing coming from the master cylinder which changes tone when i push on the cylinder. I believe i had it sitting right as I just had pushed it in with the bolts aligning but i'll try it again when i'm home from work.
Hi mate
I have the Audi A4 b7 auto. I don’t have the hole in the bulk head. So I’ve got to remove the booster from the brake pedal inside the car. I need the tool part number to remove the ball from the brake pedal. Any ideas? Tried the screw driver method with no joy.
The Audi tool might be different than the one for the VW A4 (4th generation of the A platform... Golf & Jetta).
I'd have to check the service manual to see what tool is used / listed.
Thomas is there a quick way to confirm the booster itself is bad and not the vacuum hose or pump? The car i’m dealing with has hissing at the (stiff) pedal
Engine running, stiff pedal & hissing = bad booster... most likely.
hey, appreciate all these video!
I have a 2003 alh wagon with esp.
I get 2 or 3 power assisted braking before the pedal goes hard. Vacuum will bring the assist back with some revs. I have replaced all vacumn hoses, including the one to the booster with check valve. I have fixed the vacumn pump valve into place with a hammer tap and silicon. Also refreshed both gaskets in the vacuum pump when swapping engines. I replaced the brake booster gromet. I suspect I will have to do the booster. When I pump the brake (to hard) engine off, starting while applying pressure doesn't cause it to drop at all. But when driving I have assist for the first 2-3 pumps. Should I be chasing anything else down? Or be getting ready for a booster change. Also I think you said 17-20 for suction on the check valve was good?
The higher the vacuum the better... if there is sign of oil in the fitting that the vacuum hose is attached to, the pump is not sealing correctly internally and is probably the reason for not being able to supply enough vacuum at lower rpms. If the pump checks out fine, then yes, it could be a booster issue. After engine shut off, the booster should hold vacuum for several hours. If it does not, then the check valve or the booster is faulty.
@@EXOVCDS I cannot believe it has taken me 6 months to do this. I resealed the inside of the vacuum pump with a o-Ring from a brm oil filter last night. And voila brakes return instantly. Thank you for suggesting this.
You didnt remove power from the battery?
You can do that if you want to.
I'm just wondering if that would save you from having to remove the brake sensor
@@thomaslehnart1374 I don't know what you mean.
Great video! Thank you. Thinking that my rock hard break pedal might need need a new booster. I am also going to check the vacuum lines. Annnd then an EGR delete for sh*ts and giggles! Subscribed!
Thank you for watching.
Check the booster hose, they like to crack. Also, don't delete your egr, it actually cools your combustion temps!!! O.O
I have a 2008 vw beetle. i as well changed the booster out. it was leaking air. now i put the new one back in. bled the brakes and now the breaks are hard to push. checked the suction. seems to be working good. any ideas?
Run the engine for 30 seconds... shut it off. Pop the vacuum check valve out of the booster... do you hear a loud sucking sound as it pops out? The plastic vacuum hose could have a small crack or the booster is not allowing atmospheric air into the booster on the pedal end of the booster (difference in vacuum & atmospheric pressure is what provides assist). Could also be a bad booster.
@@EXOVCDS thanks for the info. i replaced the booster the other day. what a bitch it was putting it back in. lol.
Hey man. So i replaced the master cylinder on mine and bench bled and bled all the lines. Even bled while hooked up. Pedal still soft. Here a hissing noise from the booster. When engine is off pedal is nice and firm. But once started pretty much to floor. Whats your thoughts. Im gonna say its time for a booster
Yes, probably a booster issue if pedal is firm / no air is in the system.
@@EXOVCDS do u suggest oem or aftermarket? Lol. I still dont know why i keep putting money into this thing. I love driving when it wants too work properly. After i replaced my combi valve no more check engine light. Anyways appreciate the help sir.
@@DIAMONDISKEY whichever (cost) makes sense to you (how long you will keep the car). Worst case, you install a genuine part and you still have the same problem. Sometimes the only way to know that something is bad, is to replace the part.
@@EXOVCDS yeah. Well theres not much else it could be. A bled the car even the master cylinder. Only thing i didn't do was a abs bleed. But i might just order a booster from rock auto.
@@EXOVCDS thx for your help. I ordered one today. Does the mk4 gls 2.0 need the special tool?
Muy buen dato para destrabar el perno de empuje,gracias!!
Gracias por ver
What's the long skinny plastic tube-like thing coming off of the check valve? I ask because mine wasn't connected to any tubes like this one was. Would that cause an issue ?
At what point in the video? 2:26? That's the vacuum hose that feeds vacuum to the turbo actuator solenoid, the shut off solenoid and vacuum reservoir.
@@EXOVCDS Yeah. around 2:21 you start removing it from that plastic piece I'm attempting to describe. I recently purchased and replaced the whole vacuum tube which came with an attached check valve, but I never reattached what you are removing at 2:21
@@markwitmer5498 year, make, model, engine? This video is of a VW TDI engine... 4th generation of the A platform (A4). Audi A4 is completely different... if that what you have.
@@EXOVCDS I have a 2001 Jetta TDI (1.9)
@@markwitmer5498 ok... just wanted to be sure. Lots of people see A4 in my titles and think it's Audi related. If that small vacuum hose is not connected... I would expect turbo fault code (under boost) and engine shake when turning the engine off.
I removed mine without taking out the abs block, I just dismounted the brake booster in its place and took the parts out one by one😂
Someday... I hope to be as good as you. You should post some videos on your channel, so that I can send everyone to your channel!
@@EXOVCDS I don't want to make videos about removing brake boosters in VW/Audi, it's mostly a huge pain in the ass, therefore I watched your video so that we suffer together ;)
Hello Thomas,
My brake booster is loosing air, that I can hear it inside the car. I also have the problem with the limp mode. Do you think that because if the loosing air from brake booster ti have an influence for the vacuum created for turbo charger? I have also checked the vacuum lines and also made a check with Vdcs abd I havr charge pressure positive deviation. I have also checked the actuator and the vanes are moving. Can you give me some iddeas? Thank you
Year, make, model, engine?
I can't help if you don't reply. =(
I am sorry, for the late answer. The car is a golf 4, 1.9 tdi ALH, year 2001. The engine is running good with power until I am reaching 120 km per h and then gets limp mode.
@@r-y-k8350 you need to check the adjustment of the turbo vane actuator rod & stop screw. Also check for excessive carbon in the intake manifold.
Thank you for the advice! But do you think that the rod should be adjusted, considering that until now there where no problems with the boost? I think that maybe the vanes are not moving correctly inside the turbo, and I can not clearly see it, only if the turbo will be cleaned manually after dissasembly. Another question from my first post regarding loosing air on brake booster , do you thing that this can have an influence for the vacuum system? There is valve with one way for the hose going into the booster. Many thanks!
How to remove that white plastic in a pedal holding brake booster in a VW polo vivo please help
I would have to check the service manual... but probably the same way with a special tool (to make it easy).
You can use a screwdriver, but it is more difficult.
What the name of the too using? 😢
@noichataw4989
www.ecstuning.com/b-cta-tools-parts/vw-audi-brake-release-tool/cta1437~cta/
@noichataw4989
Yes / no... thank you?
@@EXOVCDS i found one yesterday , on amazon, special vw.
Almost same your.
Ive tried to change mastervac last time (im not very experimented) and at this step ... 🤣
Your video help a lot , now i have all steps on my mind . 👌
Do you need to bleed the abs with vag com or it bleeds with the lines?
You only need to bleed the abs unit if air got into the valve & pump circuits. Think of it like this. A long hall way with a door at the front and a door at the back... and a bunch of doors on either side of the hallway. The front door is the hydraulic line going to the abs unit. The rear door is the line going to whichever wheel. Any air that goes in the front door, will come out the back door... not affecting the abs, because those doors are closed.
Dragging came back. Have you ever experienced a booster heat shield on a mk4? Both our cars don't have it but vw lists it on the parts diagrams and I know my car has the newer revision brake booster. Debating if that steel plate bolted between the booster and master might give that tiny bit extra room I need between the rod and piston. Or do you know if heat will cause a booster to slightly press on the piston?
Edward Sessum Stubborn one... I've seen the heat shields on some, can't recall specific year & model.
Thomas EXOVCDS but do you know what too much heat in a booster could cause for symptoms. I would assume hot enough can melt things but wouldn't heat cause expansion somewhere even though part of it is in a vacuum?
Sorry, I don't know the reason for it... could very well be because of heat. As for symptoms due to heat... I don't have an engineering degree to be able to explain what could happen, sorry.
dang i need that brake booster rod disconnect tool thingy. Been screwing around with trying to get it unhooked for 2 hours now.
It can be done with a mirror and a couple of flat head screwdrivers... but yes, the tool is money well spent!
@@EXOVCDSwhats the name of this tool?
@noichataw4989
www.ecstuning.com/b-cta-tools-parts/vw-audi-brake-release-tool/cta1437~cta/
@noichataw4989
Yes / no... thank you?
hi enjoy your videos and i have question i have 2007 vw passat and the problem is that the brake pedal return berry slowly like 10 second what could be a problem ?
thanks
I'm not sure, sorry. Is it just the pedal or are the brakes also applied / not releasing right away? Could be a problem with the brake booster or stiff brake pedal linkage.
@@EXOVCDS brakes also applied / not releasing right away i install a spring in the pedal for temporary and work but not perfect
the booster has spring inside to return the pedal ?
thanks for the reply
@@johntopline Is there any change if you disconnect vacuum from the booster?
When I found the plastic retainer shit on the brake booster end I was like goddammnit I'm going to have to pop this off aren't I. Better check Thomas EXOVCDS video...
Time to go make another "custom vw tool" goddammit...
The service manual lists all tools required... $35USD will get you as many service manuals as you need (that you can download in a 24hr period) in pdf form.
erwin.vw.com/erwin/
The only two tools I need are my two bare hands to rip shitty volkswagens apart
Hey pal, is it inevitable to have some oil in the booster vacuum line? I test my check valve and it does work properly, but it still let some oil fumes go inside the brake booster (i tested it with a hand vacuum pump).
It's impossible for oil fumes to go / get into the booster... most likely your brake master cylinder is leaking brake fluid into the booster.
@@EXOVCDS mmm then could have been the previous master cylinder that was leaking, and the brake fluid remained there. Good thing i alaready replace the master cylinder.
I got the tool and I know where it goes I just can't make the ball pop from the plastic, it's a 08 passat
Just yank that shit really quick
Hi on my 2011 vw jetta tdi there is a whooshing sound when I release the brake pedal, any idea what it could be?
Post a video on your channel so that I can see & hear what is happening.
@@EXOVCDS it's now posted
master what is the name of push rod removing tool?
vw.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDetail.aspx?itemId=5950042
Hello I have got quite the problem, 2003 Vw Jetta TDI ALH, I have replaced the Brake Booster and the plastic Retainer or Vw calls it mounting, anyway can't get it in tried everything booster loose and all that good stuff, before that I broke one, so this is the second one, cost me $23,13 Canadian, yet we bleeded the brakes and ABS but still had no fluid coming to the Back, we had fluid coming from the front but not to the back, and after that we gave up for a bit, then tried again, no fluid coming from the Master Cylinder, and of course matters got worse that mounting as I told in the beginning broke with bleeding and driving to test how much it brakes, so please give me some Professional Feed Back, I'm working with a Vw specialist and we together can't figure it out, open to feed back but only from professional Vw mechanics please!!!
HumbleMechanic is was a Professional VW mechanic... check with him.
I work at a specialty shop like your mechanic. Odds are that he knows more than I do. I'm still at work... I'll get back to you once I am at home later tonight. Post a video on your channel of the plastic piece you are talking about and what was done.... so I can see / understand better.
Thomas EXOVCDS thank you very much I'm happy you replied so soon, my car has been at a stand still for more then a month now. My parents get upset because I have to drive my brothers car all the time, and so far nothing has solved my problems, yet I still love my Vw tho.
excellent video. good gob.thank you,
Thank you.
What were the symptoms that lead the booster to be changed? My friends VR6 jetta has dragging rear brakes. We're planning on changing the booster. We did calipers already. When we bleed or re bleed they go back to normal for 5 mins of driving. Thanks Tom.
We've seen two issues with boosters in the past... noisy (hissing sound) and dragging brakes (not allowing the master to return fully).
Hey man thanks for video question , do u need to set up booster road? 9r just get new one and throw it in? My old booster came apart when i pulled so wasn't able to rake a measure or something
Should not need adjusting, if I remember correctly.
Cool thanks men!! I checked like 10 times and there is no way how to adjust anyways , thanks a lot
When disconnecting the brake light switch at least what I had to do on my 04 Jetta TDI BEW you have to turn it 15-20 degrees counter clockwise other wise if won't come out that easily.
Yes, counterclockwise to remove as can be seen in the video at 5:35
A more professional DIY switch replacement video can be seen here:
ruclips.net/video/xCLh3Jccaao/видео.html
Did you get a new headlamp? Looks like a bare emitter or an aspheric lens ... much better either way!
Same Coast HL7 headlamp... a new one. The old one lasted a bit over a year. I still have to return it to see if it qualifies for warranty repair / replacement.
I NEARLY sent you my last H602W when I got the new H603W, but the wife gave to a neighbor. In any case, they are on sale right now if you get sick of dealing with alkalines, and want many more lumens with longer runtimes. www.zebralight.com/H602w-18650-XM-L2-Flood-Headlamp-Neutral-White_p_115.html
***** Cool headlamp / flashlight combination!
Hi Thomas, I've heard that the booster rod release tool doesn't work on some models; specifically any VW/ Audi vehicles of the year 2008 and below. Is this true to your knowledge? I have an Audi A3 8P 2008.5 2.0T (TSI) and need to replay the ATE branded brake booster. Thanks so much!
Different years / generations / models may very well need a different tool. The A4 / mk4 in this video uses the tool as shown in this video. I'm not sure about your Audi A3... I'd have to see what the manual says.
@@EXOVCDS Okay, I'll take a deeper look into it. I'm have trouble finding information on doing this particular repair. Thank you very much for the quick reply!
This is the tool in this video:
vw.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDetail.aspx?itemId=5950042
Service info lists this tool for your car:
vw.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDetail.aspx?itemId=26450042
Thanks for the video, do you if this brake booster has electronic stability? I need to replace my booster on my 03 Golf TDI AlH and when I went to buy the booster he said there were two options and one had electronic stability and the other didnt...I got the non electronic one because it was alot cheaper. I think I made the right choice but I'm not sure
ESP / Electronic Stability Program is part of the ABS system (where applicable)... there's an ESP button that can be pushed to turn the system off (when it is not wanted). If you do not have an ESP button then you do not have ESP.
@@EXOVCDS I looked and I have a ESP button but I press it and nothing happens. If I install a booster without the electronic stability control feature will everything work normally accept when the press the button nothing will happen? Would the booster still fit in normally?
@@BlackDomeJerome To be honest, I don't know what the actual difference between the boosters is... aside from part number. You can compare the boosters before you remove yours. Compare the engine side of the boosters and the pedal / attachment side of the boosters. Pushing ESP should turn on a light in the dash... indicating that ESP has been turned off.
@@EXOVCDS I went ahead and just got the one with the electronic stability just to be safe. Thanks for your help, appreciate it 👍
@@EXOVCDS another question I have is, what about that tube that goes into fluid reservoir for the clutch. Does the clutch have to be bled?
ı ve got it.thomas.great work.thx a lot body.
Thank you for watching!
Hey thomas! did you had to adjust the new booster rod to its spec before installing it?
+Qaib_back_yard I think the only thing I needed to adjust was the brake light switch position.
+Thomas EXOVCDS Ok thanks!
Is it true that you need to drop the engine on a 1.8t to get the booster off?
I don't know... I haven't had to replace one before. The 1.8T does have less room around the booster, so it could be true. I would have to check a service manual to find out.
thanks for the video its going to help out a lot. quick question, i have a 02 gti and when i am coming to a complete stop and once it reaches 5 to 10 mph i can feel/hear a loud grinding noise on the brake pedal and it only does this at that speed when slowing down, it feels normal at any other speed and when its not moving. any input would be appreciated
Pull the wheels and have a look at the brakes.
Thomas EXOVCDS thanks for the reply, i already looked at the pads and rotors and they look good, also it seems like the noise is coming from the brake booster or master cylinder. once the car comes to a complete stop, brakes are normal again
Cesar N Weird.
Thomas EXOVCDS yea its really weird i might have to take it to a mechanic 😕 oh well thanks for the replies ☺
Is the tool needed to remove the brake booster? Or is there a way around it?
The tool makes it easier... less chance of breaking something.
Hi I have a 99 golf IV 1.4 petrol manual.
When I was waitting for the trafic up hill, my foot felt that brake pedal went about half centemeter more down then it setled. after 2 days I noticed a loss of about 3 millimeters in the pedal when I put my foot behind the pedal and pull it up. the problem is that my rear brake lights are all the times on even when the car is locked because of the 3 millimeters.
No leaks and fluid is nearly on max level.
does it mean my brakebooster is bad now?
any urgent action? I can put a tape though, but what worse can happen?
Thanks for any advice you could give
Reposition the brake light switch so that the lights go off when the pedal is not pressed. As long as the brake pedal feel firm (when pushed) and there is no "excessive" pedal free play... it should be ok.
To adjust the brake pedal switch. Press the brake pedal with one hand as far as it will go. With your other hand, pull the tip of the brake light switch out as far as it will go (and let go of the brake light switch tip). Slowly release the brake pedal and let it come to rest against the brake light switch. Do not pull up on the pedal, just let it go. The stop lights should now work correctly again.
Thank you, that solved the issue!
You need a new a new brake light switch if your brake lights are always on. I had that issue on my touareg and it's easy to change
I only need to replace the brake booster hose (that connects it to the engine), do I need to purge the brakes or something or can I simply swap the hose?
Since it is just a vacuum hose... simply remove it and install the new one. Pump the pedal before removing the hose... to vent the vacuum in the booster for easier removal (might still need a bit of effort).
Thomas EXOVCDS Thank you. My pedal always goes hard soon after I turn the engine off. Even without pumping it. My mechanic insists that it's normal but I find it really odd
No... should hold vacuum.
Could be due to a crack in the plastic vacuum hose. If it's a diesel engine, make sure that the vacuum pump is producing good vacuum.
Thomas EXOVCDS Thank you, the vacuum hose has been ordered and will be replaced tomorrow. I'm hoping it'll fix it
Thomas EXOVCDS I just replaced my vacuum pump and broke the plastic nipple on the vacuum to brake booster line (that’s where I tested the vacuum on the new pump). I ordered a new line that includes the part for the broken nipple. Do I need to also order a new brake booster grommet (grommet where the line plugs into)?
Do you know if there is an adjustment between the master and booster for freeplay? I'm a tiny bit out of adjustment somehow where on a hot day I get a tiny bit of drag that lifting up on the pedal releases it. The pedal is all the way up but this lift apparently slightly flexes the mount for the pedal. Thanks for any help.
On the mk4 / A4? The tip of the pushrod in the booster (master cylinder side) might have a threaded adjustment tip. You might be able to pull the master cylinder away from the booster with the lines attached to have a look.
Nothing was adjustable. Ended up replacing the master AGAIN and it solved it. So it was a defective master. Go figure :\
Edward Sessum Thanks for the update!
I have problem with my Audi 1999 a6 quattro the 2.8 the steering wheel is to hard to turn what I can check
Power steering fluid & drive belt.
Okay, but when open the hydraulic fluid tank was boiling
If you have air in the system, it will look like it is boiling. Check the level when the engine & power steering fluid are cold (the next morning). If the fluid level is LOW, add fluid. If the fluid level is OK, you might have a problem with the feed line to the pump. Is the pump making noise?
Yesterday I have little leakin on the little hose to the pump and I change the hose after that the steering wheel is hard to turn
What is the line that feeds
Hi Thomas. I am just wonderring how could I test brake booster properly? I have an Audi A4 B6 with a bit custom upgraded 1.8 turbo engine. Basically brakes are working fine when I drive in vacuum but once I accelerate and press brake straight a way after turbo is boosted then brakes are so hard as engine wouldn't be running if you know what I mean. I found that non-return check valve was faulty but even after replacing it it is same. So is it possible that due to faulty non return check valve I have ruined a brake booster's diafragm with 22psi turbo boost? Thanks
I think the check valve(s) might not be able to handle the boost... if the booster were bad, I would suspect a hard pedal even when not under boost. You might have to find a beefy / performance check valve. Some booster vacuum pipes (on some cars) have small nipples that feed other vacuum operated components. If your vehicle has a small nipple that you can attach a vacuum hose to, check for positive pressure "after" the check valve... it sounds like that is what is happening (as you already suspect), but it would confirm things 100%. If you have pressure there, then the check valve is no good. If the booster were leaking, you would usually hear that inside the car.
Thomas EXOVCDS I was thinking the same, Thanks for confirmation pal! :-)
I have attached a boost gauge to that nipple and noticed that it shows nice stable vacumm when turbo is under boost but brake pedal still hard so I am thinking about brake booster replacement just a bit scared that it won't help 😁
Vaidotas Vilutis Is the nipple before or after the check valve? Engine off, does it still show vacuum? If it shows vacuum, the pedal should be easy to press. Hmmm
Yeah misterious... nipple is on the brake booster side of valve and air flow is from booster to engine, backwards is totaly closed. I will check after work what it shows when engine is off. I think that brakes suppossed to be even better when idle because I drove a van yesterday which had a very sensitive brakes to compare with my Audi's, but my colleague said that van's brakes are just normal and not impressive at all.. for me it was like sport brakes after my Audi :(
Hello Thomas.What is the type of gloves with you work.
Black Nitrile Gloves by:
www.performanceradiator.com/
ruclips.net/video/YeeriHIV-f4/видео.html
Have you ever had to replace the clip the booster attaches in?
In the pedal? No... it should just pop out & in (probably easier with the pedal out of the cluster), I could be wrong.
Alright, just was wondering if someone trying to do it without the tool for a while with screwdrivers and all could possibly mess it up. Went to my local european specialist which was my last shot at finding out my brake dragging when its hot under the hood and they couldnt figure it out neither. :\
I replaced the power booster and it still has no boost. What can be causing the problem?
Is the vacuum pump OK? Is the vacuum check valve in the vacuum tube going to the booster OK?
A lot of people in the mk4 vw community talk about removing the break booster lines? Is there any positive or negative to removing, or keeping this system?
+Justin Ormsby I'm not sure what they mean... the brake booster needs vacuum lines to operate.
Ok I was curious because people do this thing called the "break booster mod" and maybe i'm confused but the diy posts include removing the whole system it seems.
Justin Ormsby Have you got a link to a forum post?
jettajunkie.com/vw-jetta/showthread.php?14741-DIY-MKIV-GTI-GLI-1.8T-PCV-Delete-Catch-Can-Install-amp-Brake-Booster-Mod
I think they're just changing the hose to direct it or something.
Justin Ormsby Posting your initial question under one of my "TDI" videos didn't help me with what you were asking. Now that I see the forum post about "PCV delete", it makes a little more sense.
No, the booster vacuum source is NOT eliminated. It is just rerouted directly from the intake manifold to the booster. If the line / vacuum source were completely eliminated, you would have a HARD brake pedal and you would not be able to stop the car quickly.
Not all state laws allow for a PCV delete / catch can installation / emission tampering... it can actually cause you to get a fine at your next inspection.
Oil vapor / smell will still be present under the hood (will come out of
the little air filter that can be seen above the booster), so installing this to get away from an oil smell, is just a cheaper way to try and fix the actual issue.
If it's something you wish to do, sure, go ahead... if done correctly, it will not interfere with engine performance, won't set a check engine light and might not cause any oil smell to get into the car.
Can you reuse the clamp on the vacuum pump hose ? I saw you jammed it and it released ?
You can reuse it yes. It usually just pulls off as is.... don't pull too hard.
And to release this clamp you need to squeeze it ? My vacuum pump is leaking air from the "pipe" it wiggle around causing my vacuum to be lower as it should. I ordered new pump and gathering info before the job. Couple months ago I replaced vacuum pump in other car it was easy here looks also but only this clamp. I thought I need to cut it to release. First will try to pull it of without doing anything to it.
Yes, it should have a clamp that you can "squeeze to open"... squeeze the clamp to lock it again. If it is NOT a reusable clamp, just cut it and install a worm gear clamp.
Will do thanks. Just from curiosity you probably noticed/fixed it not once. Vacuum pump "pipe" don't know how to properly name it, but the part of the pump where you connect the hose is loose and vacuum is escaping :(. I saw people glued it and changed the whole hose to more flexible. But I decided to buy new pump and leave oem hose. It's sad that they didn't fix it and new pump looks exactly the same and after some time it will also get loose because of engine vibration. I think my turbo isn't working properly also because of vacuum pump, lately I noticed engine shake when I turn it off. And after checking everything I found that there is vacuum leak and this part which shuts air (don't know name) doesn't work. When I wiggle the hose from the vacuum pump it works.
I have seen JB Weld used to secure a loose fitting. You should have minimum 17" HG of vacuum at components that need vacuum... the pump should easily produce 20"+HG
I have a MKV GTI and am experienced a hissing noise inside the car from the brake pedal. I suspect it's the brake booster and might replace it but I was wondering if I can just replace a gasket or something instead of buying a whole new brake booster and replacing it?
I don't think it is as easy as just a gasket / seal... I have not yet come across a hissing MkV booster, so I can not comment on what the fix is, sorry.
anyone know what the name of that tool is to remove the ball from the brake pedal?
I bought it direct from the dealer website:
vw.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDetail.aspx?itemId=5950042
Was that helpful?
@@EXOVCDS it was for me, thanks!
You're welcome! Thank you for watching my videos & reading my comment replies!
Thanks !
Thank you for watching!
What was the customer complaint?
I think is was a soft / low pedal.
Is it the same process for the 2.0 8v gas engine?
Yes.
Even BMW M3 now comes SMG only here in the US AFAIK. Sacreligious!!!
What years did the ALH power the tdi?
'99 to mid 2003 (North America)... might have run longer in other countries.
Goog video.Thanks
Thank you for watching!
Thanks..
+john davis Thank you for watching!
Como se llama el útil para sacar el vástago del pedal?
T10006A
vw.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDetail.aspx?itemId=5950042
Thomas EXOVCDS 👍
Thomas EXOVCDS thank you
Gemelo Ruiz r
My mom use 5 spd manual on VW Rabbit
Justin Vancouver Most new cars no-longer come with manual transmission... I like stick shift transmissions.
oh :(
+Thomas EXOVCDS You're mean ;)
Where did you get the two pronged pry bar that you used around 2:10?
Mine is a snap-on set... this is similar:
www.amazon.com/Panel-Removal-Notch-Chrome-Prying/dp/B00FGER9FO/
Thomas EXOVCDS Thanks! I was searching all over, but I didn't think it was a trim removal tool.
Thanks for posting this video. It was priceless when I removed the booster in my car. That little vacuum hose took me 10 minutes to pry off with a screwdriver, so those pry bars are high up on my wishlist.
They are worth having.. . I use them for a whole bunch of stuff! =)
Never understood why German manufacturers like Torx and Allen head bolts so much. Maybe you could shed some light on that Thomas?
Could not tell you... I have come across many stripped samples of each over the years. Although, usually due to the previous person working on it. With the right fitting bits they usually don't put up a fight.
Seeing a lot of newer Ford products lately that have E-Torx head and regular Torx bolts as well. Techs are getting pissy because they have to buy new tools.
StopDropandLOL It's because they use power tools for assembly at the factory. The Torx bits especially fit into the bolt heads quicker with less attention on the part of the workers. They won't strip if the right sized bit is used.
Who cares about the techs/consumer!!! What about the robots!!! #RobotLivesMatter
@@EXOVCDS Torx and Allen are a far cry better than heads like Phillip's which, by design, force the tool out of the head while applying pressure. A well fitting torx or allen tool will take a lot of torque and they stay put in the head.
cracks in the vacuumhose at 2:27 is often the reason for reduced braking power
Yes, it can also affect egr performance... I have a video about that.
Can anybody help me to find the tool used at 6 min mark? Greatly appreciate
vw.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDetail.aspx?itemId=5950042
So was that what you needed?
Thomas EXOVCDS, thank you, keep it up this really helped me
No need for the tool btw, 1 screwdriver is all you need.
Whatever works.
hi
If you have a question... ask. I'm not a mind reader. 🙂
6:00
Thank you for watching!