Honestly, my fiance bought me a 3/8" torque wrench (the one you see here) and I've just been wanting to use it. Of course all engine internals are precisely torqued but I don't think it really matters for these random bolts you see...anyway, the way I find the torque specs is Toyota has a guide to torque specs based on the markings on the head of the bolt paired with the size (in mm) of the bolt. From that, they give you a torque spec. It's all in the FSM.
Such a good Work and so professional checking everything after it started. You stayed really calm though you were so excited, always a pleasure to watch!
Dude. You make the most comprehensive “how to” videos on RUclips. Invaluable information. Just watched your W56 series. I’m about to tackle the same job.
Having done this before with other trucks, I was literally holding my breath. It's hard to even get your fingers to turn the key over that first time, you are imagining horrible metal engine noises and chaos. I was so happy this fired up. I'm looking at my 1996 with 235 thousand miles on it, knowing this is coming for that truck. So this series is awesome.
Im glad you mentioned something about the transmission crosmember bolts. I tried taking mine off and actually stopped because I thought I was going to break the bolts.
Yeah it’s weird. They’re not cross threaded but it almost felt like a stover nut. You know, the kind that stays tight the whole way through so they can’t loosen. I think the threads must be slightly messed up, dirty, rusty, or something.
Hat off to you man! Job well done and I admire you attention to detail . Did follow your build, as I was replacing my own 1kz te 3.0 td prado cylinder head, I know the feeling of firing her up first time. You can enjoy the fruit of your labour now. You will have many more years to enjoy the truck, the 4.5 is super reliable.
Lol. I went overkill on the torquing. IMO if it's not an engine internal or drivetrain component/gear, there is no reason to torque, and I can definitely tell by "hand" when something is good n' tight...BUT I just wanted to use it! It's a nice wrench.
Awesome job and thanks for sharing the journey. You only loose about a 1/2 gallon of coolant when you disconnect the rear heater. You should keep it though. You can crank that rear heater and have cool air blasting up front, it’s independent
Thanks! My main reason for removing it is I won't have passengers often (if ever) and I'm trying to reduce failure points. If a rear heater line busts open, I can be left stranded.
@@RM_Garage Reducing failure points is always the main argument. Emergency carry qty 2 of PN# Gates 28467 you can easily bypass on the trail. Thanks for the cool videos, looking forward to more
Great content, your filming, editing and storytelling skills are getting better day after day. But if could change the background music in the beginning to a more quiet and relaxing one that would be awesome, and adding some text and animations to the video will realy help people to visualise better. I'm wating for the next project!!
Seems like it started up great, like the engine was never out and you only ran out of gas. Didn't surprise me at all, you did a great detailed job of following the manual and I even saw you torque specing parts of the extra engine bay stuff I never would. You may have followed the manual closer than the original engine builders🤣
Congrats look forward to the next steps. You said you are headed to Idaho. Just wondering what part? If you are comfortable putting that info out there
They have said that a pro isn't concerned about firing up a new engine, it's perfect. Maybe after building a dozen but how often do we do that. Yeah I'd be nervous as well. Could be the rum. Good job.
Hmm. Total price including the engine stand, odds and ends (nuts, bolts, hoses, tools, clamps, etc), and engine parts + machining, with no labor cost since I did it myself: ~4k. Keep in mind this includes things like every single gasket in the entire engine, all o-rings, sealant, idler pulley, drive belts, wiring restoration + connectors, numerous random bolts and nuts, hoses, clamps, pistons, bearings, machine work, exhaust studs, sensors, etc All in all you could probably do a low budget LS swap for the cost of rebuilding the 1FZ.
@@RM_Garage I saw you rebuild that and it was amazing. I have a 94, when I do small jobs I will end up with a few extra parts...lol. I don't know how you organized all that. I think when you rebuild you know exactly what you got. Awesome job.
I see you torque the most random bolts, how do you find the torque specs for all of that misc hardware?
Honestly, my fiance bought me a 3/8" torque wrench (the one you see here) and I've just been wanting to use it. Of course all engine internals are precisely torqued but I don't think it really matters for these random bolts you see...anyway, the way I find the torque specs is Toyota has a guide to torque specs based on the markings on the head of the bolt paired with the size (in mm) of the bolt. From that, they give you a torque spec.
It's all in the FSM.
@@RM_Garage It's so great and so enjoy when watching your 80 series built vidoes, well done!!!
By the way, what's your meaning by FSM?
@@lishihan1990 Factory Service Manual.
Such a good Work and so professional checking everything after it started.
You stayed really calm though you were so excited, always a pleasure to watch!
All those hours paid off!! So proud! 💪🏼
Congrats on successful test drive! That is a great feeling!
Thanks man!!
Dude. You make the most comprehensive “how to” videos on RUclips. Invaluable information. Just watched your W56 series. I’m about to tackle the same job.
Thanks!! Really appreciate that.
Am I the only one that SMILED when the engine started? 😂
Haha! Glad you liked it!
No I smiled instantly, too 👌
Having done this before with other trucks, I was literally holding my breath. It's hard to even get your fingers to turn the key over that first time, you are imagining horrible metal engine noises and chaos. I was so happy this fired up. I'm looking at my 1996 with 235 thousand miles on it, knowing this is coming for that truck. So this series is awesome.
That’s awesome bro congrats. This engine rebuild series came out good. Can’t wait for the next modifications to the Land Cruiser
Thanks! I can't wait either
Amazing 1st start! I like how you're taking your time to bust rust and touch up those little areas that most people skip over.
Thanks! And yup, those small touches definitely added a lot of time and effort to this project.
Good Morning from Annapolis!! Great job on your big project on your baby!! I smiled with excitement, I am proud of you!
Haha, awesome!! That's why I make these videos!
Im glad you mentioned something about the transmission crosmember bolts. I tried taking mine off and actually stopped because I thought I was going to break the bolts.
Yeah it’s weird. They’re not cross threaded but it almost felt like a stover nut. You know, the kind that stays tight the whole way through so they can’t loosen.
I think the threads must be slightly messed up, dirty, rusty, or something.
Congratulations!! Nothing better than a fresh 80
Thanks! Can't wait to actually start driving it around!
Hat off to you man! Job well done and I admire you attention to detail .
Did follow your build, as I was replacing my own 1kz te 3.0 td prado cylinder head, I know the feeling of firing her up first time. You can enjoy the fruit of your labour now. You will have many more years to enjoy the truck, the 4.5 is super reliable.
Really appreciate that!!
Wow, I didn't know I would be nervous for you on first start, well done.
Haha. Thanks Joe!
Congrats, always impressed with how often you have that torque wrench in your hand.
Lol. I went overkill on the torquing. IMO if it's not an engine internal or drivetrain component/gear, there is no reason to torque, and I can definitely tell by "hand" when something is good n' tight...BUT I just wanted to use it! It's a nice wrench.
Well done sir! Happy to see her back on the road 🙏
Thanks man! Excited to see yours back on the road too!
Awesome job and thanks for sharing the journey. You only loose about a 1/2 gallon of coolant when you disconnect the rear heater. You should keep it though. You can crank that rear heater and have cool air blasting up front, it’s independent
Thanks! My main reason for removing it is I won't have passengers often (if ever) and I'm trying to reduce failure points. If a rear heater line busts open, I can be left stranded.
@@RM_Garage
Reducing failure points is always the main argument.
Emergency carry
qty 2 of PN# Gates 28467 you can easily bypass on the trail.
Thanks for the cool videos, looking forward to more
Congrats!!!!! So hyped for you!!
Thank you!
mastery of your craft. so fucking sick! need more!
Thank you!!
Great content, your filming, editing and storytelling skills are getting better day after day.
But if could change the background music in the beginning to a more quiet and relaxing one that would be awesome, and adding some text and animations to the video will realy help people to visualise better.
I'm wating for the next project!!
Thanks Willy! I really appreciate the feedback and will take that into consideration! Good looking out!
‘bout teared up on that first start mane
Great job! Congrats!
Thank you!
That's awesome job, I'm in Australia and parts so expensive for my 1996 fjz80 even gaskets, they ripping us off here,but they are nice cars
Man, that sucks!
Seems like it started up great, like the engine was never out and you only ran out of gas. Didn't surprise me at all, you did a great detailed job of following the manual and I even saw you torque specing parts of the extra engine bay stuff I never would. You may have followed the manual closer than the original engine builders🤣
Really great job on this build, thank you for posting.
Congrats look forward to the next steps.
You said you are headed to Idaho. Just wondering what part? If you are comfortable putting that info out there
Thanks! Yep, I am here now. I'll keep it vague with Southern Idaho.
They have said that a pro isn't concerned about firing up a new engine, it's perfect. Maybe after building a dozen but how often do we do that. Yeah I'd be nervous as well. Could be the rum. Good job.
Nice work 😊
Congrats!!
Now I need help with mine just blew the head gasket, can i use your garage lol
Haha, oh man. That's gonna be fun to fix.
That’s awesome! Looking forward to what you do with the rest of the truck!
Same!!
did you dyno it to see what extra the .20 over gave you?
Nope, still not broken in. I think it would be a pretty trivial gain honestly.
@@RM_Garage I'm curious to see what your mpg and torque end up at. Will you post updates as you get it broken in?
Sweet!!
How good did it feel to get it started? You’ve done some amazing work in this build.
Amazing! Thank you!!
Right on!! Good job mon…/
thanks!
What was the final cost?
Hmm. Total price including the engine stand, odds and ends (nuts, bolts, hoses, tools, clamps, etc), and engine parts + machining, with no labor cost since I did it myself: ~4k.
Keep in mind this includes things like every single gasket in the entire engine, all o-rings, sealant, idler pulley, drive belts, wiring restoration + connectors, numerous random bolts and nuts, hoses, clamps, pistons, bearings, machine work, exhaust studs, sensors, etc
All in all you could probably do a low budget LS swap for the cost of rebuilding the 1FZ.
@@RM_Garage I saw you rebuild that and it was amazing. I have a 94, when I do small jobs I will end up with a few extra parts...lol. I don't know how you organized all that. I think when you rebuild you know exactly what you got. Awesome job.
I did this and started it and there is horrible ticking noises
great video, we need more land cruiser content...🍆