I really enjoyed your video. I built a Warre hive as an feature to put in my flower garden and guess what, a swarm moved in, so I have been on a steep learning curve for the past twelve months and love any information I can find on keeping bees and Warre hives. One thing I picked up on was that you use of a plastic bag to contain your insulation and I love the idea of containing the insulation in a bag, preventing any of of it falling down into the frames. One idea I have seen on youtube it to place the insulation material in a pillow slip or something similar so that any moisture/condensation can be absorbed through the material bag into the insulation material. This also allows for mess-less changing or removal of that insulation should it become to damp.I am enjoying my bees and Warre hive and from what I have read it seems to be a much more natural way of keeping bees.
Thats awesome Ron, Free bees, can't go wrong with that. Just keep researching mate, One thing you will learn is, if you ask 10 beekeepers a question, you will get 12 different answers ! Enjoy your bees,
Great video! Adding boxes above and below makes sense. That is a great tip. I have top bars and langstroths. One day I will do a Warre to see how it goes.
Hello from California! Love this video. Am a backyard beekeeper since about 3 going on 4 years and use Warre' . Love this video and love the suggestions (honey super) and info you gave. Learned a lot. Getting ready to harvest honey and still get a little nervous - watching you handling and talking about the process really relaxed me. I definitely need to have a more structured frame. I have only the top bar and when it's time to harvest - it's a bit of a mess. They definitely don't just slide out.... the bees have often have built the comb in a kind of undulation that usually conjoins the adjacent comb at some point. I leveled the platform but they seem to like to build in a wavy pattern... maybe because their californians? :-)
Hello Isabelle, I am glad you enjoy warre beekeeping as I do, The side bars definitely make a difference, I have found though that bottom bars - not so much, You may wish to try adding side bars only first, just to add as guides, And questions, head over to our FB Page, I try to help folks as much as possible from there, Hope you has a great harvest, Keep your smoker lit, ~Mark~
I understand one of the main principles of Warre hive management is adding frameless (top bar only) boxes to the bottom for brood nest expansion, while harvesting boxes with old comb filled with honey from the top. I understand with top bar and foundation-less langstroth it is a big thing to check every week or two that they are not starting cross combing on foundationless frames or top bars, and checkerboarding already built straight combs with new frames/bars is a big help. Could you explain how is it different with Warre hive that it makes someone confident to put top bars only empty box at the very bottom of the hive and not knowing if they build it strait or not till may be 2-3 years later when that box will make it to the to[p? Or it does not matter at all because you would only harvest the whole box by crashing all combs and would never need to remove individual frames until than (e.g. to check if there is a good laying queen, if there are swarm cells, etc) ?
In a Warré hive, the principle is that you take the top box in its entirety and take out all the comb, extracting the honey (usually by crushing, cause you cannot centrifuge without a solid frame, which a traditional Warré does not have). So if they make cross comb, all that really means is extra beeswax.
Just watched . Several questions. you have a plastic bag of something you are using for insulation. Why a plastic bag and what insulation? the top you are using seems simplistic. does it work OK? Why do you use frames? Warre typically didnt.
Just curious, how do you manage to fit 9 frames in your Warre hive? And what would you say, are the beneficiaries to the bees with having a platstic bag, wich i suppose contain some sort of insulation material, in the quilt box?
I run a 32mm frame which allows 9 per box, I have had a lot of dust from wood shavings fall into the hive, so I tried the bags, Worked well for me. Every year I try something new, So far bubble wrap has worked the best...
Thank you for a lovely video, learned some nice tips, as I just started with two Warré hives. One question though. When you put your inspected boxes on the ground sideways, I see that your frames are horizontal instead of vertical. Does that not cause the foudationless frames to stick together or get damaged?
Yes I have to agree not a very clever putting brood box or honey supers sideways , every beekeeper I see store there boxes with frames vertical not horizontal especially when new comes are being built with no wire support or even fresh nectar in them , not sure why he did this , not a practice I would do , but works for him I guess.
Do you not mean.... Frames are positioned in a Cold Way :Ends are faced towards the Hive Entrance, (rather than Warm Way : Across the Hive, parallel to the Front Wall, 90 Degrees to the Entrance.) Think his DIY Frames, get used in a Langstroth-esq way. He did say he Breeds Bees more than Honey, and, Warre Boxes are lighter to lift (!) 🤔 🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝 Happy Beekeeping 2022. 🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝
My mistake... Rewatched Keep Unsupported Frames in a Vertical holding, or orientation and , not on its long Side (Horizontal) This could mean the Comb could just fall out flat in gloopy mess !) With such a large Area not being Supported... 🤔 Guess you could Run across a Wire or Two... and let the Bees make Natural Comb. I do this, using x3 Cross Wires with Langstroth Frames. Maybe do a bit in the Warre when I get it. 😎
Any one wanting to do the Warre hives learn from the start how to handle the top bars or frames , don’t turn them on there sides to view them like this guy in the video dispite him nearly lose a comb he continues to keep turning the frames sideways to look at them , people should practice what they preach in there videos.
The only thing is no handles. I have Rheumatoid arthritis in the hands and am looking for size and type that will allow me to work them as comfortably as possible. Do you know where there are free plans for building boxes and frames?
You can put handles on www.warre.biobees.com/ if you concerned the advantages of the Warre are the reduced weight compared to Langstroth might be beneficial for you.
Warre hives and boxes are noticeably less weight than langstroths, but probably the best hive design for people with limited strength or mobility would be a top bar hive. You never have to lift a box of any kind, and only have to deal with the weight of an individual bar and its comb. There are no 'standard' sizes that you are locked into, so you can set one up that is as large or as small as you can manage. You can also find frame lifters at bee supply stores and online that will help you grasp and lift individual bars or frames more easily.
I have to point out that you are the very first person I've seen use old tires for your hive stands! May I ask why you use them? My first thought is that they may not be stable, particularly in high winds.
They would be a problem if I produced honey. The weight would definitely be an issue, But as I only breed bees, And there is never any real weight in the hives, I have no problems, I have been using these for 4 years now, They are free, They do not rot, They act as a solar accumulator in winter to help warm the hives, Generally a major win for my operation.
@@BlackSheepApiaries The affordability/availability aspect had already occurred to me (you can pick them from abandoned lots not far from here), but I hadn't considered the thermal aspect. Good point, especially for a climate like yours. Thanks for sharing!
[Wohreih] ? Really?? The french "Warré" is pronounced with [ah] like [A]lberta (not Ohlbertoh) or [A]merica (not Ohmericoh) and with a short é like in [e]dge, [e]ngaged - not like [eeeeeh]. The double rr is for short, sharper 'r' like in e[rr]or. So its W[ah]rrrr[é] - not like you pronounce it : [Wohreih] (your pronounciations is : "bollocks" ;) )
I really enjoyed your video. I built a Warre hive as an feature to put in my flower garden and guess what, a swarm moved in, so I have been on a steep learning curve for the past twelve months and love any information I can find on keeping bees and Warre hives. One thing I picked up on was that you use of a plastic bag to contain your insulation and I love the idea of containing the insulation in a bag, preventing any of of it falling down into the frames. One idea I have seen on youtube it to place the insulation material in a pillow slip or something similar so that any moisture/condensation can be absorbed through the material bag into the insulation material. This also allows for mess-less changing or removal of that insulation should it become to damp.I am enjoying my bees and Warre hive and from what I have read it seems to be a much more natural way of keeping bees.
Thats awesome Ron,
Free bees, can't go wrong with that.
Just keep researching mate,
One thing you will learn is, if you ask 10 beekeepers a question,
you will get 12 different answers !
Enjoy your bees,
Great video! Adding boxes above and below makes sense. That is a great tip. I have top bars and langstroths. One day I will do a Warre to see how it goes.
Lovely yield. Enjoy the birds singing in the background.
Me too,
Might steal your idea of putting stuff up on tires.
Hello from California! Love this video. Am a backyard beekeeper since about 3 going on 4 years and use Warre' . Love this video and love the suggestions (honey super) and info you gave. Learned a lot. Getting ready to harvest honey and still get a little nervous - watching you handling and talking about the process really relaxed me. I definitely need to have a more structured frame. I have only the top bar and when it's time to harvest - it's a bit of a mess. They definitely don't just slide out.... the bees have often have built the comb in a kind of undulation that usually conjoins the adjacent comb at some point. I leveled the platform but they seem to like to build in a wavy pattern... maybe because their californians? :-)
Hello Isabelle,
I am glad you enjoy warre beekeeping as I do,
The side bars definitely make a difference,
I have found though that bottom bars - not so much,
You may wish to try adding side bars only first, just to add as guides,
And questions, head over to our FB Page,
I try to help folks as much as possible from there,
Hope you has a great harvest,
Keep your smoker lit,
~Mark~
I understand one of the main principles of Warre hive management is adding frameless (top bar only) boxes to the bottom for brood nest expansion, while harvesting boxes with old comb filled with honey from the top. I understand with top bar and foundation-less langstroth it is a big thing to check every week or two that they are not starting cross combing on foundationless frames or top bars, and checkerboarding already built straight combs with new frames/bars is a big help.
Could you explain how is it different with Warre hive that it makes someone confident to put top bars only empty box at the very bottom of the hive and not knowing if they build it strait or not till may be 2-3 years later when that box will make it to the to[p? Or it does not matter at all because you would only harvest the whole box by crashing all combs and would never need to remove individual frames until than (e.g. to check if there is a good laying queen, if there are swarm cells, etc) ?
In a Warré hive, the principle is that you take the top box in its entirety and take out all the comb, extracting the honey (usually by crushing, cause you cannot centrifuge without a solid frame, which a traditional Warré does not have). So if they make cross comb, all that really means is extra beeswax.
Just watched . Several questions. you have a plastic bag of something you are using for insulation. Why a plastic bag and what insulation? the top you are using seems simplistic. does it work OK? Why do you use frames? Warre typically didnt.
Doing some research on Warre hives. Just subbed to your channel!
Welcome,
Hows the winter treating you ?
This may help also,
facebook.com/BlackSheepApiaries
Just curious, how do you manage to fit 9 frames in your Warre hive? And what would you say, are the beneficiaries to the bees with having a platstic bag, wich i suppose contain some sort of insulation material, in the quilt box?
I run a 32mm frame which allows 9 per box,
I have had a lot of dust from wood shavings fall into the hive, so I tried the bags,
Worked well for me.
Every year I try something new,
So far bubble wrap has worked the best...
Thank you for a lovely video, learned some nice tips, as I just started with two Warré hives. One question though. When you put your inspected boxes on the ground sideways, I see that your frames are horizontal instead of vertical. Does that not cause the foudationless frames to stick together or get damaged?
Yes I have to agree not a very clever putting brood box or honey supers sideways , every beekeeper I see store there boxes with frames vertical not horizontal especially when new comes are being built with no wire support or even fresh nectar in them , not sure why he did this , not a practice I would do , but works for him I guess.
Do you not mean....
Frames are positioned in a Cold Way :Ends are faced towards the Hive Entrance, (rather than Warm Way : Across the Hive, parallel to the Front Wall, 90 Degrees to the Entrance.) Think his DIY Frames, get used in a Langstroth-esq way. He did say he Breeds Bees more than Honey, and, Warre Boxes are lighter to lift (!) 🤔
🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝
Happy Beekeeping 2022.
🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝
My mistake... Rewatched
Keep Unsupported Frames in a Vertical holding, or orientation and , not on its long Side (Horizontal)
This could mean the Comb could just fall out flat in gloopy mess !) With such a large Area not being Supported... 🤔
Guess you could Run across a Wire or Two... and let the Bees make Natural Comb.
I do this, using x3 Cross Wires with Langstroth Frames. Maybe do a bit in the Warre when I get it. 😎
Any one wanting to do the Warre hives learn from the start how to handle the top bars or frames , don’t turn them on there sides to view them like this guy in the video dispite him nearly lose a comb he continues to keep turning the frames sideways to look at them , people should practice what they preach in there videos.
Bash, crash, bump, rattle.
Thankfully I am not a bee.
The only thing is no handles. I have Rheumatoid arthritis in the hands and am looking for size and type that will allow me to work them as comfortably as possible. Do you know where there are free plans for building boxes and frames?
i suggest you look at a long langstroth hive
I agree, B|
Thank you
You can put handles on www.warre.biobees.com/ if you concerned the advantages of the Warre are the reduced weight compared to Langstroth might be beneficial for you.
Warre hives and boxes are noticeably less weight than langstroths, but probably the best hive design for people with limited strength or mobility would be a top bar hive. You never have to lift a box of any kind, and only have to deal with the weight of an individual bar and its comb. There are no 'standard' sizes that you are locked into, so you can set one up that is as large or as small as you can manage. You can also find frame lifters at bee supply stores and online that will help you grasp and lift individual bars or frames more easily.
Drone comb doesn’t mean they’re thinking about swarming in the near future. Bees always want a certain percentage of drone comb.
I guess I am kinda off topic but do anyone know a good site to watch newly released tv shows online?
@Joel Eugene Lately I have been using Flixzone. Just search on google for it :)
@Joel Eugene i watch on Flixzone. Just search on google for it :)
I have to point out that you are the very first person I've seen use old tires for your hive stands! May I ask why you use them? My first thought is that they may not be stable, particularly in high winds.
They would be a problem if I produced honey.
The weight would definitely be an issue,
But as I only breed bees,
And there is never any real weight in the hives,
I have no problems,
I have been using these for 4 years now,
They are free,
They do not rot,
They act as a solar accumulator in winter to help warm the hives,
Generally a major win for my operation.
@@BlackSheepApiaries The affordability/availability aspect had already occurred to me (you can pick them from abandoned lots not far from here), but I hadn't considered the thermal aspect. Good point, especially for a climate like yours. Thanks for sharing!
@@BlackSheepApiaries The thermal aspect is genius black absorption at the base so it rises genius :)
@@fishmanfairclough7530 it simply works......
Old tyres are used a lot in French apiaries. Very common sight.
Where do you get those Warre frames? They have framing on 4 sides like langstroth.
I make them,
I also use side bars only,
I enjoy experimenting.....
Yeah I use the one with side frames a major improvement from a single frame.
[Wohreih] ? Really?? The french "Warré" is pronounced with [ah] like [A]lberta (not Ohlbertoh) or [A]merica (not Ohmericoh) and with a short é like in [e]dge, [e]ngaged - not like [eeeeeh]. The double rr is for short, sharper 'r' like in e[rr]or. So its W[ah]rrrr[é] - not like you pronounce it : [Wohreih] (your pronounciations is : "bollocks" ;) )