Hello tiler! A very good short video, perfectly explained. A long version in Spanish can be found in Ardex Seire. With Ardex X 77 the consumption per m2 is less than 2 kg. Vamos amigos! Greetings
Great videos all around. I'm a homeowner who likes to do his own research and do my own work. Since finding your channel I learned so many things that are unknown to me. Not my industry but I highly respect your work and profession. I'm looking for the best and field tested products and rely on your expertise and knowledge to install what I see is right. Thanks again - keep it going. You got a great thing going on here.
Thank you for this review. I’ve always used Ditra and it is a pain sometimes to keep going over to get full coverage. I knew ardex had something similar but never checked up on it, because I figured it would be the same. Ardex X5 is the best thin set in my opinion. I love the bond and the bucket life as well Still waiting on a video on how to make miter cuts look like a million bucks. I struggle with the measurements for some reason Best tile RUclips channel out there. Thanks again 🤙🏽
Another good one Isaac! I did an install last month at a friend's bathroom second floor townhouse and used DITRA, and had minor frustration just like you mentioned, about the tiny air holes. Some of them I just filled in the next morning when I keyed in my troweled thin set for the tiles. On top of that, after I filled in all the waffle cells with thin set and went home, the tenant's dog walked all over my thin set, and the next morning the floor looked like Neil Armstrong's foot prints all over the moon. Took an hour to scrape it all down and fill in a couple of hundred paw prints. We'll be uploading a video on that in the coming week, it was hilarious.
I like the stratamat. I like that you can see the thinset coverage underneath during installation, and I like the vent holes that make it "modified friendly"
Just finished a Ditra Xl install and that back and forth is the worst those air pockets take quite a few passes with the flat edge before you can even start combing notches. Great video as always! Gonna hit my local tom duffy for the flexbone next time
Thanks for the info on this mat! I never considered the air pocket pushing it around to fill all the pockets has just been in the work flow. Ive been using the prova flex because I liked the additional layer of mesh on the top. I really like the ardex X 5 I just started using it since my supplier got me hooked on UZIN and now never has any in stock. the X 5 is awesome and a great value. I'm going to try out the flex bone when this roll of prova flex runs out!
Great Video Isaac! I absolutely agree, I prefer the flexbone far better! And if you haven't checked it out, the floating flexbone is also a superb uncoupling/slip membrane. I was super skeptical using it, but I am impressed. I still use ditra mostly, because we use kerdi so much and I have a ton of stock on hand. Also prefer to have everything go together. Just feels more professional to me. We have recently started playing around with ardex's version of kerdi membrane. I can't tell a ton of difference, but I can tell that it seems to be some good stuff. We still use s1k or red guard over squeeze out. Corners especially. We will see how it works out, but since Ardex is cheaper for me, and we use ardex leveling compounds, patch, thinsets, and grouts 99% percent of the time, so it makes sense. I'm sure there's a reason for schluter making their product the way they did, and it works great! But the flexbone is the one to grab if you can get it locally in my opinion. Thanks for the content! I thoroughly enjoy it! 👍
Good work Isaac, I'm just missing the floor heating cable installation, so the Flexbone isn't just an uncoupling mat but a system that will integrate your floor heating as well.
Any advantage or disadvantage using this on a slab? Also I’ve watched many of your videos and while I’m not doing a DIY project I have learned what questions to ask my tile installer. So thank you for your time and devotion to the learning process!
Hi thanks for your excellent videos. I wondered what it would be like when you have to remove this floor system in the future to change the floor, have you done a video showing how to remove it? would you just have to chisel it off which would undoubtedly leave chunks out of the subfloor. Would you then have to screed the floor again and start over? I just subscribed.. Thanks Chris
crack isolation membranes are tested to ANSI 118.12, including a movement test with two rating levels,1/8" and up is high performance. is there a standard for Uncoupling Membranes to be measured to?
Isaac, one thing an older tiler told me while I was on a job painting was that he says Durock is great for floors, but said Hardiebacker always cracks. This guy was not a hack and knew mudding and the like, and of course warned me I should definitely thinset and screw it down. He just said for whatever reason Hardiebacker always cracks at the sheet outlines like you describe, but with Durock he didn't have that problem, he warned me about that when I asked him some tiling questions. My sort of theory is that Durock/Wonderboard because it's little pieces of rocks glued together, ends up being a sort of sacrificial layer that's meant to break down and thus uncouple the floor somewhat? Whereas Hardie's rigidity works against it.
I just used redguard in my bath, fleece on both sides. Caught me by surprise, did my other bath last year with Ditra. Comment when one or the other fails!
Hey Isaac. Love your videos. How does the cost compare to ditra matt. Also have you ever used the redguard matt? And if so what do you think about it? We use it over all our wood subfloors. I personality like it. It seems to bond well if properly installed but I've never tested it as you do your products.
I love it when you need to use a membrane. It "breathes" which allows for a modified mortar, which is way easier to purchase. Have you seen easy mat? Curious as to how that is
I've always wondered how 3/4" dry pack floor w/anti-fracture(majority of my floors) holds up to stresses compared to uncoupling membranes. I mean, I wouldnt be mad if you made a test rig..😜
All those uncoupling membranes only to address minor expansion/contraction of wood subfloors, but not flex. Dry-pack gives pretty much same level of uncoupling that those uncoupling matts do, but being thick layer of sand it’s low compression resistance may act as tiny flex absorbing buffer, which those membranes don’t have being too thin. The only benefit they offer lower thickness but floor flex has to be addressed first.
intresting, don't think ardex sell this in the uk, but there's an identical product called flexbone in the tile shops made by Bal, i don't think the two companies are linked, Bal adhesives and grouts are different but this uncoupling mat looks identical, tho i never took to much notice because i don't trust Bal products, but if ardex is branding it and put there name behind it should be safe to try. apparently the bal mat is breathable so can go over uncured screed, tho it seems in the sSates nobody worries about screed drying times, it can also be used fully floating with no thinset bed between mat and subfloor? which doesn't really seem right, suppose the idea is if your using a mat over a flow screed with gypsum, most new builds seem to be using this now, there's little point fully bedding it down with thinset and its probably safer to fully uncouple with a floating mat
Issac, what is the cost of the flexbone compared to ditra? And where can it be bought? Is it installed the same as far as modified thin set to bond to subfloor and unmodified over the top?
Hey Isaac, have you tried Ardex UI 720 Flexbone? It's an uncoupling membrane also but you dont adhere it to the sub-floor, it floats. It's not much more expensive either, what do you think? Installs would be so much faster.
Never used bone. your key point of Schluter ditra leaving air pockets in the thinset is crucial its What causes the tile to go wonky later after install. So bad to the point I started and all skim over ditra with a wetter dry pack or screeding mix prior to tile install. Never fails
That's the problem 3×5 sheets. My company I work for 18+ years always uses hardi in 4×8 sheets and never problems. I think the roll out mats came into play for high rise buildings
He's a good tile guy but it seems most of his videos are hawking one product or another. I use the basics and they always work well, all this new stuff and "SYSTEMS" coming out are EXPENSIVE and have not really been proven over 10-15 years. I don't see a need to use all this stuff. Nothing lasts forever, remodel jobs these days will only be around for maybe 5-7 years and people are ripping it out and getting new anyway.
paul disposable? Been renovating entire properties for 15 years. Can count my complaints on one hand. Never used uncoupling membrane and don’t see the need. I keep doing what I’m doing and I continue to get work without any advertising. I watch these videos as a break from my BUSY life, I remodel 6-7 homes a year, the whole house. If you do the work right, it will last a long time, not forever. I don’t have any worries.
Isaac Ostrom thanks for clarifying I think it’s important to know. My house was built before pro flex or it’s popularity got down here and I have cracks on my concrete slab at all the corners.
@@garydavidh9511 Another disposable tile guy. I wonder who you follow. hmmm. And these systems are not that expensive when factoring the labor involved. Sorry, I misunderstood and I apologize for being presumptive, 5-7 years sounds disposable to me but good for you you are successful. I have been doing residential remodeling for close to 20 years now myself and have for the past 8 years been getting my hands wet in the tile trade. I am BUSY as well and I really enjoy these videos and find them quite useful even if I don't agree with everything being said. I welcome advancements in building technologies. This past year I have used Ditra Mat, Ditra Heat, Stratamat, Permat, Hardibacker, Duroc, Wedi, Hydroban and others . Each job and client, for me, is unique and has different needs and budjets. Some are flipping homes, some are first home buyers of an aging housing stock or brand new homes in need of some custom work, some are taking over the family home that's been in the family for generations, and some want to update and plan to stay in the house for another 20 years. Locally, we have homes that range in age from 150 years to 1 year so having experience with a variety of materials is really useful. And I quite agree with you, if the work is done right, it will last. If you have time, please check out my facebook page, Carpentry in VT. I'd appreciate your feedback and am interested in seeing your work as well. Thanks
Been fixing 35 years and tbh i just dont get Ditra matting. I have literally used it a handful of times and thats only because its been specified. On two occasions and following correct fixing methods two ditra jobs have failed on me. The mat just did dont adhere to the subfloor. Never again. I am a massive fan of fibre cement boards and have fixed, quite literally many many hundreds of floors without one single failure. Working in London where there are loads of fixers, square metre price has become very very tight. Quite simply i cannot cost in expensive matting systems, and for me anyhow, i can supply and fix cement fibre boards quicker, and more importantly cheaper, per square metre.
In UK what's weird is they seemingly spec/allow tile direct to particle board subfloors without underlayment. How often do you see it actually fail this way if you use one of those magic mortars? They even spec direct to hardwood floors, which we don't do in USA as well. Mapei I think has one mortar, I think.... Ultralite C2, that we also have in US and the UK spec sheet says hardwood floors are OK and I think single layer subfloors as well.
I use a bonding agent on plywood before the ditra or a leveling compound. 2 coats an hour apart. The first one soaks in and dries super quick second takes longer to dry. I feel sorry for the guy that ever has to take it up.
Use Schluter All Set or Laticrete 254. It'll stick. And how you can put down CBU's according to manufactuerers spec faster than roll out matting is puzzling. We can have dogbone rolling out while you are still carrying 300 square feet of CBU's into the house. The material savings of CBU's is gone when compared to the labor savings of installing uncoupling mats
Don’t ardex sell Ardex FBM in the states. It’s the extra strong mortar for Ditra or this the. I use Ditra. Here we are supposed to uncouple once you have floorheating and tiles bigger than 60x60cm. This is on a heavly reinforced cement subfloor.
Without question this is a better uncoupling and it’s not even close. Schluter has some nice finish options with their metals but their shower system, Kerdi board, fabric, Ditra, and Ditra heat are awful. I’ve literally installed all of their products in hundreds of bathrooms and I will be omitting virtually their entire product line.
The reason the crack came up into the tile with the Hardiebacker is because the seams weren't taped and mudded. Also, the board was installed without any gaps in between. So, yeah, that, and the fact that they didn't tape the seams is why the tile cracked. I'd also be willing to bet that there's no thinset under the Hardiebacker, as well. Hack job
This seems silly to me. Wouldn't fleece cause it to bond too tightly to the subfloor? That kind of negates the whole point of doing an uncoupling membrane... What testing or prior experiences have been done to prove it works? This video just seems like a shallow, out of the blue promo video for a new product that hit the market. No thanks.
Bonds too tightl? Are you one of those floating tile floor installers like some other guy on youtube? The point is for the fleece to bond with the subfloor while the dogbone layer bonds to the tile. Lateral movement is taken up by the flexible nature of the top layer. It works very well. If you are adverse to advancements in tiling materials then why are you using thinbed mortar and CBU's? And it's not that expensive when compared to istallation of CBU's.
@@garydavidh9511 I will tell you from experience, don't use it and you will learn the hard way that in the long run it is cheaper than doing the floor over.
Are you paid at all bu ardex? Flexbone. I think its in ethical to not explain that your paid by the company to talk about it on RUclips… why not be honest atleast if its a good product… Let us know Big fan of channle btw you have had some great educational videos
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Hello tiler! A very good short video, perfectly explained. A long version in Spanish can be found in Ardex Seire. With Ardex X 77 the consumption per m2 is less than 2 kg. Vamos amigos! Greetings
Great video! Love the ending of your videos about people getting into the trades. Awesome !!
Great videos all around. I'm a homeowner who likes to do his own research and do my own work. Since finding your channel I learned so many things that are unknown to me. Not my industry but I highly respect your work and profession. I'm looking for the best and field tested products and rely on your expertise and knowledge to install what I see is right. Thanks again - keep it going. You got a great thing going on here.
Thank you for this review.
I’ve always used Ditra and it is a pain sometimes to keep going over to get full coverage. I knew ardex had something similar but never checked up on it, because I figured it would be the same.
Ardex X5 is the best thin set in my opinion. I love the bond and the bucket life as well
Still waiting on a video on how to make miter cuts look like a million bucks. I struggle with the measurements for some reason
Best tile RUclips channel out there. Thanks again 🤙🏽
Another good one Isaac! I did an install last month at a friend's bathroom second floor townhouse and used DITRA, and had minor frustration just like you mentioned, about the tiny air holes. Some of them I just filled in the next morning when I keyed in my troweled thin set for the tiles. On top of that, after I filled in all the waffle cells with thin set and went home, the tenant's dog walked all over my thin set, and the next morning the floor looked like Neil Armstrong's foot prints all over the moon. Took an hour to scrape it all down and fill in a couple of hundred paw prints. We'll be uploading a video on that in the coming week, it was hilarious.
Looks like a good product...Thanks for posting Issac.
I like the stratamat.
I like that you can see the thinset coverage underneath during installation, and I like the vent holes that make it "modified friendly"
Marshal Downs flex bone is modified friendly. Ardex as far as I know doesn’t make an unmodified
Miss the longer install & remodel vids....hoping for another “series” with a 3 part vid sometime soon😉
Just finished a Ditra Xl install and that back and forth is the worst those air pockets take quite a few passes with the flat edge before you can even start combing notches. Great video as always! Gonna hit my local tom duffy for the flexbone next time
Your work looks excellent
Those stairs looked awesome
Thanks for your knowledge and unbiased opinion on product
Thanks for the info on this mat! I never considered the air pocket pushing it around to fill all the pockets has just been in the work flow. Ive been using the prova flex because I liked the additional layer of mesh on the top. I really like the ardex X 5 I just started using it since my supplier got me hooked on UZIN and now never has any in stock. the X 5 is awesome and a great value. I'm going to try out the flex bone when this roll of prova flex runs out!
Great Video Isaac! I absolutely agree, I prefer the flexbone far better! And if you haven't checked it out, the floating flexbone is also a superb uncoupling/slip membrane. I was super skeptical using it, but I am impressed.
I still use ditra mostly, because we use kerdi so much and I have a ton of stock on hand. Also prefer to have everything go together. Just feels more professional to me. We have recently started playing around with ardex's version of kerdi membrane. I can't tell a ton of difference, but I can tell that it seems to be some good stuff. We still use s1k or red guard over squeeze out. Corners especially. We will see how it works out, but since Ardex is cheaper for me, and we use ardex leveling compounds, patch, thinsets, and grouts 99% percent of the time, so it makes sense. I'm sure there's a reason for schluter making their product the way they did, and it works great! But the flexbone is the one to grab if you can get it locally in my opinion.
Thanks for the content! I thoroughly enjoy it! 👍
Good work Isaac, I'm just missing the floor heating cable installation, so the Flexbone isn't just an uncoupling mat but a system that will integrate your floor heating as well.
Their newer flexbone has adhesive mesh backing. No need to adhere it with thinset anymore. Its awesome!
Any advantage or disadvantage using this on a slab? Also I’ve watched many of your videos and while I’m not doing a DIY project I have learned what questions to ask my tile installer. So thank you for your time and devotion to the learning process!
Very cool. Is there a heat mat version?
Thanks for sharing!
Hi thanks for your excellent videos. I wondered what it would be like when you have to remove this floor system in the future to change the floor, have you done a video showing how to remove it? would you just have to chisel it off which would undoubtedly leave chunks out of the subfloor. Would you then have to screed the floor again and start over?
I just subscribed..
Thanks Chris
crack isolation membranes are tested to ANSI 118.12, including a movement test with two rating levels,1/8" and up is high performance. is there a standard for Uncoupling Membranes to be measured to?
Ive used fexbone for years.. I do prefer it over ditra.. also ardex makes a glue to install it instead of using motar..
Isaac, one thing an older tiler told me while I was on a job painting was that he says Durock is great for floors, but said Hardiebacker always cracks. This guy was not a hack and knew mudding and the like, and of course warned me I should definitely thinset and screw it down. He just said for whatever reason Hardiebacker always cracks at the sheet outlines like you describe, but with Durock he didn't have that problem, he warned me about that when I asked him some tiling questions. My sort of theory is that Durock/Wonderboard because it's little pieces of rocks glued together, ends up being a sort of sacrificial layer that's meant to break down and thus uncouple the floor somewhat? Whereas Hardie's rigidity works against it.
Durock is wrapped on both sides with fiberglass mesh. That is a big advantage in crack resistance
I just used redguard in my bath, fleece on both sides. Caught me by surprise, did my other bath last year with Ditra. Comment when one or the other fails!
That’s almost all I use is Ardex x5 it’s a great full coverage mortar ...!!!! And x77 is absolutely crazy also
Flex bone rocks!
Hey Isaac. Love your videos. How does the cost compare to ditra matt. Also have you ever used the redguard matt? And if so what do you think about it? We use it over all our wood subfloors. I personality like it. It seems to bond well if properly installed but I've never tested it as you do your products.
I love it when you need to use a membrane. It "breathes" which allows for a modified mortar, which is way easier to purchase. Have you seen easy mat? Curious as to how that is
What are your thoughts on the ARDEX FL grout? Is it worth pursuing/using or no? Any info is appreciated *
I've always wondered how 3/4" dry pack floor w/anti-fracture(majority of my floors) holds up to stresses compared to uncoupling membranes. I mean, I wouldnt be mad if you made a test rig..😜
All those uncoupling membranes only to address minor expansion/contraction of wood subfloors, but not flex. Dry-pack gives pretty much same level of uncoupling that those uncoupling matts do, but being thick layer of sand it’s low compression resistance may act as tiny flex absorbing buffer, which those membranes don’t have being too thin. The only benefit they offer lower thickness but floor flex has to be addressed first.
That thickness is a no-go today because of transition height
@@wallacegrommet9343 Lol, drop the floor bud.
intresting, don't think ardex sell this in the uk, but there's an identical product called flexbone in the tile shops made by Bal, i don't think the two companies are linked, Bal adhesives and grouts are different but this uncoupling mat looks identical, tho i never took to much notice because i don't trust Bal products, but if ardex is branding it and put there name behind it should be safe to try. apparently the bal mat is breathable so can go over uncured screed, tho it seems in the sSates nobody worries about screed drying times, it can also be used fully floating with no thinset bed between mat and subfloor? which doesn't really seem right, suppose the idea is if your using a mat over a flow screed with gypsum, most new builds seem to be using this now, there's little point fully bedding it down with thinset and its probably safer to fully uncouple with a floating mat
Issac, what is the cost of the flexbone compared to ditra? And where can it be bought? Is it installed the same as far as modified thin set to bond to subfloor and unmodified over the top?
Did you use the same ardex on the risers? And have you tried the ardex glue instead of mortar?
Do you use modified or unmodified to adhere the flex bone to plywood? My floor is half self leveling cement and the rest of the plywood is primed
I’ll try the flex bone next time
Hey Isaac, have you tried Ardex UI 720 Flexbone? It's an uncoupling membrane also but you dont adhere it to the sub-floor, it floats. It's not much more expensive either, what do you think? Installs would be so much faster.
thanks isaac
Does ardex have the same warranties as schluter?
With Flexbone your meant to butter the mat first then serate also back butter the tiles too.
Never used bone. your key point of Schluter ditra leaving air pockets in the thinset is crucial its What causes the tile to go wonky later after install. So bad to the point I started and all skim over ditra with a wetter dry pack or screeding mix prior to tile install. Never fails
Yeah the flexbone doesn't leave air pockets and it's pretty stout I got faith in it
I'd love to see you use ardex with heating in a shower and bathroom. Please help an older woman out!!! Thank you so much!
That's the problem 3×5 sheets. My company I work for 18+ years always uses hardi in 4×8 sheets and never problems. I think the roll out mats came into play for high rise buildings
Is it soundproof?
Rapid mat is another fantastic system produced by the same company and quicker and stronger on the install
Flexbone is a strong product. fabric on the bottom is better imo and also easier to fill...what's not to like.
Is this an unsponsored review? Just curious and want to clarify.
He's a good tile guy but it seems most of his videos are hawking one product or another. I use the basics and they always work well, all this new stuff and "SYSTEMS" coming out are EXPENSIVE and have not really been proven over 10-15 years. I don't see a need to use all this stuff. Nothing lasts forever, remodel jobs these days will only be around for maybe 5-7 years and people are ripping it out and getting new anyway.
paul disposable? Been renovating entire properties for 15 years. Can count my complaints on one hand. Never used uncoupling membrane and don’t see the need. I keep doing what I’m doing and I continue to get work without any advertising. I watch these videos as a break from my BUSY life, I remodel 6-7 homes a year, the whole house. If you do the work right, it will last a long time, not forever. I don’t have any worries.
Isaac Ostrom thanks for clarifying I think it’s important to know. My house was built before pro flex or it’s popularity got down here and I have cracks on my concrete slab at all the corners.
@@garydavidh9511 Another disposable tile guy. I wonder who you follow. hmmm. And these systems are not that expensive when factoring the labor involved.
Sorry, I misunderstood and I apologize for being presumptive, 5-7 years sounds disposable to me but good for you you are successful. I have been doing residential remodeling for close to 20 years now myself and have for the past 8 years been getting my hands wet in the tile trade. I am BUSY as well and I really enjoy these videos and find them quite useful even if I don't agree with everything being said. I welcome advancements in building technologies. This past year I have used Ditra Mat, Ditra Heat, Stratamat, Permat, Hardibacker, Duroc, Wedi, Hydroban and others . Each job and client, for me, is unique and has different needs and budjets. Some are flipping homes, some are first home buyers of an aging housing stock or brand new homes in need of some custom work, some are taking over the family home that's been in the family for generations, and some want to update and plan to stay in the house for another 20 years. Locally, we have homes that range in age from 150 years to 1 year so having experience with a variety of materials is really useful. And I quite agree with you, if the work is done right, it will last. If you have time, please check out my facebook page, Carpentry in VT. I'd appreciate your feedback and am interested in seeing your work as well. Thanks
Gary David H actually most of them have been proven for 20 plus years.
Been fixing 35 years and tbh i just dont get Ditra matting. I have literally used it a handful of times and thats only because its been specified. On two occasions and following correct fixing methods two ditra jobs have failed on me. The mat just did dont adhere to the subfloor. Never again. I am a massive fan of fibre cement boards and have fixed, quite literally many many hundreds of floors without one single failure. Working in London where there are loads of fixers, square metre price has become very very tight. Quite simply i cannot cost in expensive matting systems, and for me anyhow, i can supply and fix cement fibre boards quicker, and more importantly cheaper, per square metre.
In UK what's weird is they seemingly spec/allow tile direct to particle board subfloors without underlayment. How often do you see it actually fail this way if you use one of those magic mortars? They even spec direct to hardwood floors, which we don't do in USA as well. Mapei I think has one mortar, I think.... Ultralite C2, that we also have in US and the UK spec sheet says hardwood floors are OK and I think single layer subfloors as well.
I use a bonding agent on plywood before the ditra or a leveling compound. 2 coats an hour apart. The first one soaks in and dries super quick second takes longer to dry. I feel sorry for the guy that ever has to take it up.
Use Schluter All Set or Laticrete 254. It'll stick. And how you can put down CBU's according to manufactuerers spec faster than roll out matting is puzzling. We can have dogbone rolling out while you are still carrying 300 square feet of CBU's into the house. The material savings of CBU's is gone when compared to the labor savings of installing uncoupling mats
Bonding agents seem to get completely overlooked in the US tile trades
Nice video. Correct, remove the 2nd will
Don’t ardex sell Ardex FBM in the states. It’s the extra strong mortar for Ditra or this the. I use Ditra. Here we are supposed to uncouple once you have floorheating and tiles bigger than 60x60cm. This is on a heavly reinforced cement subfloor.
Without question this is a better uncoupling and it’s not even close. Schluter has some nice finish options with their metals but their shower system, Kerdi board, fabric, Ditra, and Ditra heat are awful. I’ve literally installed all of their products in hundreds of bathrooms and I will be omitting virtually their entire product line.
The reason the crack came up into the tile with the Hardiebacker is because the seams weren't taped and mudded. Also, the board was installed without any gaps in between. So, yeah, that, and the fact that they didn't tape the seams is why the tile cracked. I'd also be willing to bet that there's no thinset under the Hardiebacker, as well.
Hack job
Is tbis designed to be laid directly on wood subfloors?
As long as the subfloor is rated for tile as far as deflection is concerned, you can use a wide variety of substrates
@@coreylawler4034 sonit will take the pmace of hardi backer or any concrete board?
So it*
@@dannynorth194 yes. It replaces cement backer board on floors
You need to burn then comb, you can do wet, or burn first and then come back next day. Anyways, you have to burn then comb. 🤙🏻
Burn then comb❓ A Cody'sLab reference❓
For those of you don't get the reference:
ruclips.net/video/DF-Mll0gxaA/видео.html
You never answered the question or shown any proof that it works
Look 2 posts above yours. Tile Guru
This seems silly to me. Wouldn't fleece cause it to bond too tightly to the subfloor? That kind of negates the whole point of doing an uncoupling membrane... What testing or prior experiences have been done to prove it works? This video just seems like a shallow, out of the blue promo video for a new product that hit the market. No thanks.
exactly, just another expensive SYSTEM
I believe that the fleece will break free of the plastic and allow for movement.
Bonds too tightl? Are you one of those floating tile floor installers like some other guy on youtube? The point is for the fleece to bond with the subfloor while the dogbone layer bonds to the tile. Lateral movement is taken up by the flexible nature of the top layer. It works very well. If you are adverse to advancements in tiling materials then why are you using thinbed mortar and CBU's? And it's not that expensive when compared to istallation of CBU's.
@@travisk5589 That is exactly what happens and it is designed to do.
@@garydavidh9511 I will tell you from experience, don't use it and you will learn the hard way that in the long run it is cheaper than doing the floor over.
Are you paid at all bu ardex? Flexbone. I think its in ethical to not explain that your paid by the company to talk about it on RUclips… why not be honest atleast if its a good product…
Let us know
Big fan of channle btw you have had some great educational videos