I agree with all you said. I attempted blending three varieties of switchgrass for screening which failed to grow like I hoped. I also found that Cave in Rock works well for an early to mid-season travel to stand border (not so much mid-December - January). I enjoy the info and work you put into the videos Jeff.
Hi George, thanks for the feedback! Definitely depends on where you live. That screen behind me is only 5' wide and doing pretty well for 1/25...with heavy wet snow and ice on it. I typically recommend 10-12' wide for screening access routes...would be perfect for that! Appreciate it...
I’m a hunter & real estate appraiser also.... I noticed you mentioned the occupation it in a previous video...no wonder you switched jobs lol...you are a certified general deer expert! You know I’m trying to schedule appointments around the weather & trail cam pix now lol... thanx!! ... if you want an apprentice holler! For real; I’m studying right now lol...also I’m an air rifle enthusiast, Texan SS .45 cal( if u haven’t; check it out)...amazingly lax law when it comes to silencing air guns & Arkansas just approved it along with some other states; I love bow hunting but 150yard silent slug/pellet shots are in my sights, holler we’ll make a vid lmao
Oh yeah I’m putting your advice to work on my lease this year brother I’m looking forward to doin it to put my plots in and a water hole mock scrape to thanks for sharing brother you don’t have to do it like you do
I wish I had done some overselling last fall of the switch we planted but came up thin. I didn't realize you could plant in the fall, but have always waited to frost seed in March. Great comments and a littler easier possibly in the fall, and then spray the following March. thanks
Frost seeded my first 25 lb bag of switchgrass yesterday...purchased from John Komp.....beautiful quality pure seed!! Seeding in north central MN.....Bertha, MN....my question is Simazime application and snow cover.....can you apply Simazine on 2-3” of melting snow pack??? I cannot find a clear answer on that one.
Sorry I got a text but yeah you don’t have to share with us but you do and I thank you for doin that brother Be safe out there and GOD BLESS you and your family Amen 🙏
Well, it''s March 1st and I'm planting. I was hoping to put my switchgrass seed on bare soil, but there's still a foot of snow on the ground. Jeff said two inches of snow is ok, hopefully 12 inches works.
Another excellent series of food plotting advice from our Professor! Thank you Jeff. My land is in upstate New York, rural, agricultural. Frost seeding question: can you simply frost seed into or onto snow at anytime of the Winter, or should I wait closer to April ( Spring around here)? Additionally, Simizine is prohibited in New York state (what else is new?). Do you have a work-a-round to get it in as early as possible this year for this Fall? Thanks so much for sharing all of you great advice. Nick
Thanks so much Jeff for sharing your wisdom. I put switch grass seed down this month and there were a number of spots of standing water due to spring melt. Can I reseed those spots in early June with success? I have learned so much from you this past year improving my 60 acre property in SE Wisconsin. God Bless you and your family!
Hey Jeff what’s best way to implement switchgrass on property that doesn’t have open soil right now (old field previously cattle pasture) spray the areas this spring/summer then frost seed next season? Or is there a faster way to implement?
Jeff, what is the simizine to water mix in a 25 gallon tank? Also why not also spray food plots with it while your out there to get a jump on food plot weed issues. Thanks
Hi Jeff, The only way to access the property we hunt is a system of new logging roads. When the temps get below freezing these roads, which are normally very muddy and wet, form a thick layer of what I call permafrost which I'm sure is not the correct term. This makes an incredible amount of noise when crushed underfoot, spooking deer for hundreds of yards. Do you have any suggestions for drying out these roads to create more silent stand access? Thanks.
Hi Jeff, I’m purchasing 23 acres in upstate NY, with my north border running behind a bunch of houses. We have a 500’ minimum for gun hunting from another residence. Would it be unwise to put my bedding along the property line behind the other properties? Then I can put the food towards the back of the property.... by watching your videos I know what I want to do, but am confused where it should be. Gun season is just a small portion of my hunting, but I do like to do it. Thanks Jeff, you’re content is so helpful.
Just curious how you prevent the switchgrass from over taking everything? I can understand that obviously it get sprayed on your plots and controlled that way, how about the other areas? Are you spraying both sides to maintain that defined switchgrass area every year?
Thanks for all the great information you share Jeff, it is appreciated. Does anyone know if switch grass can handle flooding in a stream bottom at all?
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and experience! I have always managed my properties for quail and pheasant habitat and just figured that there will "always be deer around". Your books and videos have convinced me to start learning how to manage for deer and to attract and hold big bucks on my property. Is managing for upland habitat and a quality deer herd compatible?
Up in Bemidji MN here! We were thinking about burning the field then spreading the seed then doing the spraying any thoughts on that? It's an old, 5 acre field that has sat for multiple years probably 20+. We have been messing around a bit with food plots before we actually started doing research. We really want to do it right this year and we would like to put in a chunk of switchgrass for bedding and cover. Also looking at putting in a screen along the road but it's on the north side of the timber wondering if the shade from the trees would choke it out in the ditch line. Any thoughts or comments let me know big fans. Thank you
Thank you sir! Great videos! Quick question: I've got a 5acre wooded travel parcel that lies dead center in about 600 acres of ag fields. I want to screen the woods and establish a bit of thicker cover in the woods. Can I basically plant a switchgrass loop around the 3.5 acre woods...maybe 10' wide? I plan on planting some pines, ninebark, and other bushes in the woods too to keep them bedding in there.
Hi Jeff I had a failed spring no till drill switchgrass planting last spring. I suspect it was due to either the cold wet spring in 2019 or I planted too deep. My 2nd attempt involved glysophate in the early fall, followed by broadcasted switch grass on the plot in mid October. Then in Early spring we applied simazine. The plot is mostly free of weeds as of today. (June 6th). However I am not seeing much SG germination at this point. My concern is that this 2nd attempt might also fail. Theirs was a pretty solid thatch of ground. My question is whether I should continue to be patience, and replant. Or kill off the plot and start over again in the fall after removing the thatch. Thanks
Great video Jeff!! What chance would switchgrass have in being frost seeded on top of dense vegetation....say leaf litter? Do the seed end up typically getting washed down thru say oak leaf litter? I have a light canopy area of oak trees in an area I am not allowed to cut or trim... I would like to add "quick dense ground cover" to the area and my thought for area is to try switchgrass. I'd love to burn the leaf litter first, but it won't be an option with my landowner. Thanks!! TONY!
Okay so I have a question. I just acquired a property the very end the last season and cut food plots out but wanted your opinion on what to plant to draw deer to the food plots so they know they're there for hunting season? Its probably a 2 year old clear cut that I cleared about a quarter of an acre on the edge of Hardwoods and the thicket of the clear-cut.. I'm new to the food plots so was wondering how to get deer to be aware that there will be food there...oh and I'm in NC so there is a long growing season...
Great info once again Jeff!!! So is it to late to plant switch grass then for 2020's hunt season? reasoning I'm asking is, because I have one more hunting season on my property till I move and trying to get the best hunting possible this year from the property and just looking at the priorities to get my access like a ghost in the woods without blowing out my whole 10acres before I even get to stand. Thanks again Jeff like I've said before just more wisdom for the sponges.
Jeff. I sprayed last fall on a old pasture. Then went in and mowed in December pretty short. Will that work ok for frost seeding getting the seed to the soil. Then I'll spray what you recommend this spring.
Jeff, if we are plan on frost seeing switch grass, I'm assuming we need to plan ahead and have the weeds sprayed back before we go into the cooler months or can we frost seed say into a WW/WR planting and spray the last couple weeks before temps reach 58-68 degrees? Love your video tutorials
Jeff, I'm converting an old ag feild into a switchgrass pocket my concern here in west central mich is the amount of moisture we have received in the last 4 months the feild itself hasnt been able to dry properly and is mucky in some spots is this a legitimate issue if I would want to frost seed anytime soon? Love your channal and love your advise
As always great videos. Can I plant the switchgrass by simply spraying a couple of times followed by broadcasting? No equipment needed? Also, is March a good time to do so in Eastern Ohio if bypassing frost seeding? Assuming it's too late to frost seed this winter.
You just need to make sure seed gets onto the soil. Of good seed to soil contact you can definitely frost seed. Of the dead grass and thatch prohibits the seed from reaching soil then you have to prepare the seed bad to frost seed next winter...
I’m new to this. Wondering if your could clarify. You say to frost seed, the put simozein (spelling?) 3 weeks ish prior to green up, then apply round up. Wont the round up kill the switchgrass?
Hi Jeff - wondering if you cold stratify your switchgrass seed prior to planting? Specifically if planting in the spring, not pertaining to frost seeding. I'm trying to decide if I need to complete this process (stratification) on my switchgrass seeds with plans for planting in bulk this spring. Thanks in advance
Hi Tyler I never have...even my June SG did outstanding last year! Of course it was pressed into heavy soil followed by a lot of rain that was in the forecast!
Hey Jeff. Great information as always. Can I use the frostseed/simozene process over existing clover or do I need to kill the clover first to better expose the soil? Thanks in advance!
Jeff, if you drill switchgrass in the spring/summer time frame is that a waste of time for new weed competition then? I was hoping to spray weeks then a few weeks later drill switchgrass for this year.
Do I wait until the snow melts or put on the snow right now so it stratisfies ? Or will it be fine to do it mid March or April if that’s when the snow melts ? Just worried about not enough time for it to stratisfy this year.
I would like to plant switchgrass in an old cow pasture that has grown up over the last few years. Just wondering if I need to prep the ground first before frost seeding or if I can through the seed ontop of all the dead weeds. And also we have a lot of snow here in MN not sure it will all be melted by March 1st. What would you suggest?
Hi Tesha! You really have to get the seed on soil...for great seed to soil contact. The best thing to do would be to spray or repeatedly till the area you are going to frost seed next year...and then get the seed on the soil before it snows. You want a firm seed bed. Often a spraying early in the spring and one towards the end if the summer will be enough...but the soil has to be open. BTW...hopefully it is! I love early Springs...
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 I was afraid you might say that. Was really hoping to get it in the ground this year. Tilling will be a huge chore lots of rocks in this area but end result will be worth it. Thanks so much for taking the time to respond to my comment!
Jeff, if i can get some exposed soil by this winter by tilling some old field up that has never had anything planted in it, and lime it, do you think I can frost sees this year?
It sure won't! 2-4D can injure or kill young switch and even set back mature switch...but not before germination. It is a broadleaf killer. Simazine will not hurt the switch either...also a pre emergent. I wouldn't spray either on switch after germination. I like spraying 1 pint per acre of 2-4D mixed with 2 quarts per acre of Glyphosate, and then hitting the weeds within a bed of frost seeded Switchgrass, roughly 2-4 weeks after spring green up.
Thanks Jeff this is my first year with my own property and with help from your videos I believe it can turn my property into a 5%er. I live on the eastern panhandle of West Virginia and everyone around me has the theory that if it’s brown it’s down. I haven’t found a single soul in three counties that’s interested in habitat management. It’s crazy! They have no clue what kind of hunt they are missing.
You are so welcome and man, they sure don't know what they are missing is do true! I even think my clients do not realize how much true potential that they have...I often think I have higher expectations than they do. Good luck and enjoy all of the hard work...it will be rewarded!
Thanks a million and I told my wife that my dream one day is to be in your shoes. It’s hard to find people with the passion for white tails like we have. Have a good day and god bless you and your family
Symazine is a pre-emergent and can be sprayed in a field planted with switchgrass but it needs to be applied before the weeds actually break the grounds surface. Typically 3-4 weeks before spring green up depending on where you are located. If you miss that spraying window, 2,4D can be sprayed after the weeds have emerged.
Can’t wait to screen with switchgrass! Access, food plots, and property lines!Saw another comment about Egyptian wheat, I plan to screen with EW while the switchgrass fills in while I wait. Already answered my question 👍. I love these videos Jeff thanks for everything sir!
Thanks a lot JJ...sounds great and sounds like you have some great things going on this year! Make sure to check out the Heavy Duty plot screen from John...I believe even better than EW 👍 Either way tho...great plan!
@@jjhoran1273 thanks JJ...great guy! A huge % of my clients buy their seed from him and I receive nothing but great feedback about him ☺️ enjoy...will be Spring before we know it!
Would you recommend frost seeding over a cut corn field from the fall before? I'm concerned about seed to soil contact but don't have a way to clear the debris from the field.
Why can't you do anything without chemicals. Deer hunting should be putting chemical free healthy meat on the table. With proper management you never need chemicals for anything. The outdoor world really needs to start looking at other ways to do thing with nature instead of agenst it
Because some of us don't have giant, earth ripping, moisture robbing, erosion causing, weed seed promoting tractors and other toys to continually scar the land to create a weed infested seed bed to grow Switchgrass that continually had to be mowed to set back weeds that eventually cause a garbage stand of switch or food plots. Some of us also want our efforts to be rewarded and not taken over and destroyed by weeds. These are tips for the average landowner that do not have 10s of thousands of dollars for expensive toys...or otherwise, have the resources that someone like you does.
Just my thoughts on using chemicals in general... No chemicals is kind of the "in" thing...but unfortunately really not practical for nearly all food plotters or deer habitat planters. It severely limits you for what you plant and it is nearly impossible to plant quality forages or habitat improvements that actually work to help your herd and hunt. It is kind of a fad right now by a lot of folks online who have very little practical knowledge about food plotting...or experience that is. If I couldn't plant food plots on private land with chemicals I would honestly just purely hunt public land. We had a lease for 4 years we just dropped last year...not totally the reason...but the fact that we couldn't use chemicals made food plotting a waste of time with limited equipment. It sounds good on paper and so eco friendly but it is not practical for 99% of food plotters. I stand for opposite of just feel good practices...I crave effective results per resources spent. I am not ashamed to use them 🙂 And both my herd management, the herd and my hunting success is better off for it. After analyzing and then prescribing food plot programs for nearly 1000 clients in 26 states and then doing it myself since 95...that is what I have experienced. Over and over again. Sorry to sound so harsh, and I think it is important to limit chemicals when you can, but conserving soil, soil moisture, limited tillage, erosion control, building soil and soil nutrients, quality forages and quality herds based in those quality forages in the Fall...are all goals I want to accomplish with or without chemicals. So much to balance...not just chemical use. Just like the farmers around here who are my neighbors...the bulk of them use chemicals and understand the big picture. The Summer buckwheat/Fall quality food combo is a great option-maybe the best for limiting chemicals AND allowing food plotters to efficiently plant high powered, small foodnplots. BUT, you still want to control weeds either once or twice per year. When you do not use chemicals at all, even with that combo...your efforts can lead to some pretty poor plots that really don't have enough power or efficiency to help during the Fall. It's tough and without chemicals food plots can be a waste of time...I've seen that okay out true in every way that you can plant a plot - for decades. I'm with you on limiting chemicals, but it just isn't practical unless using big tractors, drills and crimpers. Even then you are very limited for forage and planting varieties. For example if a neighbor of mine was using that system for 20 acres of food plots next door on 200 acres, I feel I could control the daylight movement with chemicals and 3 acres of plots on my land. There just wouldn't be enough diversity next door...I could throw the deer on their land after dark. So far, far less fuel, thousands of dollars less in fertilizer and seed costs, and tens of thousands less needed in equipment...with much higher results. Oh...and a LOT less time spent. It's a balance of all...but high powered and small can often be worth several times larger and average. And so much less resources of time and money spent. That's what I work with my clients a lot on...the most bang for their resources spent. Chemicals are NOT the only concern or balance to weigh. So many resources and levels of effectiveness or efficiency to consider.
Andrew, first of all let me make something TOTALLY CLEAR to you, which I'm sure Jeff will confirm, DEER BASICALLY DON'T EAT SWITCHGRASS !!! So no need to worry about having "chemical free" deer to eat. Switchgrass is a very "unique" and kinda difficult thing to plant, compared to everything else we plant for deer management. And using chemical a couple times one year and possibly once the second year to perfectly establish a switchgrass stand that could last 10 years is pretty darn insignificant in the scope of things.!!! Jeff, your suggestions/advice on the "process" to establish switchgrass are very much in line with many of the other very experienced advisors. The Only thing I might add Jeff would be to make sure people understand just how simazine works but more importantly how it can hurt you if put on to late. Simazine does last in the soil for 60 days and if conditions make it where you have to apply it to close to the soil temps reaching germination time it can really hurt you. That kinda happened in northwest WI last year with all the late snow. Anyway, thanks foe all the great input as always.!!!!
@@davidtpierce I fully understand my comment was lost on low intelligent level around there I will not be watch anymore. I have a degree in deer biology and ranch management so don't get in over your head
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I agree with all you said. I attempted blending three varieties of switchgrass for screening which failed to grow like I hoped. I also found that Cave in Rock works well for an early to mid-season travel to stand border (not so much mid-December - January). I enjoy the info and work you put into the videos Jeff.
Hi George, thanks for the feedback! Definitely depends on where you live. That screen behind me is only 5' wide and doing pretty well for 1/25...with heavy wet snow and ice on it. I typically recommend 10-12' wide for screening access routes...would be perfect for that! Appreciate it...
Another awesome video. Thanks for all the great advice, best channel around.👍👍
The video I was hoping you'd create! Thank you for sharing your expertise with us. It is greatly appreciated.
I’m a hunter & real estate appraiser also.... I noticed you mentioned the occupation it in a previous video...no wonder you switched jobs lol...you are a certified general deer expert! You know I’m trying to schedule appointments around the weather & trail cam pix now lol... thanx!! ... if you want an apprentice holler! For real; I’m studying right now lol...also I’m an air rifle enthusiast, Texan SS .45 cal( if u haven’t; check it out)...amazingly lax law when it comes to silencing air guns & Arkansas just approved it along with some other states; I love bow hunting but 150yard silent slug/pellet shots are in my sights, holler we’ll make a vid lmao
Gonna try and frost seed Cave in rock this year with your technique. Seeding tomorrow here in Upstate NY. Thanks for the great videos.
Awesome video Jeff!!! nozzle
Oh yeah I’m putting your advice to work on my lease this year brother I’m looking forward to doin it to put my plots in and a water hole mock scrape to thanks for sharing brother you don’t have to do it like you do
Man you are very welcome Randle! Really hope it helps and I look forward to hearing about it from you ☺️
Love this video so much valuable information thanks jeff
I wish I had done some overselling last fall of the switch we planted but came up thin. I didn't realize you could plant in the fall, but have always waited to frost seed in March. Great comments and a littler easier possibly in the fall, and then spray the following March.
thanks
Can’t wait to get my new earth way spreader to work!!!
Morning brother I pray your day goes great Amen 🙏
Morning Randle thank you so much...traveling with family to visit my mom ☺️ Have a great day yourself!
Frost seeded my first 25 lb bag of switchgrass yesterday...purchased from John Komp.....beautiful quality pure seed!! Seeding in north central MN.....Bertha, MN....my question is Simazime application and snow cover.....can you apply Simazine on 2-3” of melting snow pack??? I cannot find a clear answer on that one.
Sorry I got a text but yeah you don’t have to share with us but you do and I thank you for doin that brother Be safe out there and GOD BLESS you and your family Amen 🙏
Thanks Randle...really means a lot! Have a great weekend brother 👍
Well, it''s March 1st and I'm planting. I was hoping to put my switchgrass seed on bare soil, but there's still a foot of snow on the ground. Jeff said two inches of snow is ok, hopefully 12 inches works.
Another excellent series of food plotting advice from our Professor! Thank you Jeff. My land is in upstate New York, rural, agricultural. Frost seeding question: can you simply frost seed into or onto snow at anytime of the Winter, or should I wait closer to April ( Spring around here)? Additionally, Simizine is prohibited in New York state (what else is new?). Do you have a work-a-round to get it in as early as possible this year for this Fall? Thanks so much for sharing all of you great advice. Nick
Thanks so much Jeff for sharing your wisdom. I put switch grass seed down this month and there were a number of spots of standing water due to spring melt. Can I reseed those spots in early June with success? I have learned so much from you this past year improving my 60 acre property in SE Wisconsin. God Bless you and your family!
Hey Jeff what’s best way to implement switchgrass on property that doesn’t have open soil right now (old field previously cattle pasture) spray the areas this spring/summer then frost seed next season? Or is there a faster way to implement?
Jeff, what is the simizine to water mix in a 25 gallon tank? Also why not also spray food plots with it while your out there to get a jump on food plot weed issues. Thanks
Hi Jeff,
The only way to access the property we hunt is a system of new logging roads. When the temps get below freezing these roads, which are normally very muddy and wet, form a thick layer of what I call permafrost which I'm sure is not the correct term. This makes an incredible amount of noise when crushed underfoot, spooking deer for hundreds of yards. Do you have any suggestions for drying out these roads to create more silent stand access? Thanks.
So do you need bare soil to plant the switch grass or plant spray and spray again
Jeff which setting do you recommend for the 2750 spreader with cave in rock?
Hi Jeff, I’m purchasing 23 acres in upstate NY, with my north border running behind a bunch of houses. We have a 500’ minimum for gun hunting from another residence. Would it be unwise to put my bedding along the property line behind the other properties? Then I can put the food towards the back of the property.... by watching your videos I know what I want to do, but am confused where it should be. Gun season is just a small portion of my hunting, but I do like to do it. Thanks Jeff, you’re content is so helpful.
Just curious how you prevent the switchgrass from over taking everything? I can understand that obviously it get sprayed on your plots and controlled that way, how about the other areas? Are you spraying both sides to maintain that defined switchgrass area every year?
I'm curious as well
Thanks for all the great information you share Jeff, it is appreciated. Does anyone know if switch grass can handle flooding in a stream bottom at all?
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and experience! I have always managed my properties for quail and pheasant habitat and just figured that there will "always be deer around". Your books and videos have convinced me to start learning how to manage for deer and to attract and hold big bucks on my property.
Is managing for upland habitat and a quality deer herd compatible?
Up in Bemidji MN here! We were thinking about burning the field then spreading the seed then doing the spraying any thoughts on that? It's an old, 5 acre field that has sat for multiple years probably 20+. We have been messing around a bit with food plots before we actually started doing research. We really want to do it right this year and we would like to put in a chunk of switchgrass for bedding and cover. Also looking at putting in a screen along the road but it's on the north side of the timber wondering if the shade from the trees would choke it out in the ditch line. Any thoughts or comments let me know big fans. Thank you
Thank you sir! Great videos! Quick question: I've got a 5acre wooded travel parcel that lies dead center in about 600 acres of ag fields. I want to screen the woods and establish a bit of thicker cover in the woods. Can I basically plant a switchgrass loop around the 3.5 acre woods...maybe 10' wide? I plan on planting some pines, ninebark, and other bushes in the woods too to keep them bedding in there.
Hi Jeff
I had a failed spring no till drill switchgrass planting last spring. I suspect it was due to either the cold wet spring in 2019 or I planted too deep. My 2nd attempt involved glysophate in the early fall, followed by broadcasted switch grass on the plot in mid October. Then in Early spring we applied simazine. The plot is mostly free of weeds as of today. (June 6th). However I am not seeing much SG germination at this point. My concern is that this 2nd attempt might also fail. Theirs was a pretty solid thatch of ground. My question is whether I should continue to be patience, and replant. Or kill off the plot and start over again in the fall after removing the thatch. Thanks
Great video Jeff!! What chance would switchgrass have in being frost seeded on top of dense vegetation....say leaf litter? Do the seed end up typically getting washed down thru say oak leaf litter? I have a light canopy area of oak trees in an area I am not allowed to cut or trim... I would like to add "quick dense ground cover" to the area and my thought for area is to try switchgrass. I'd love to burn the leaf litter first, but it won't be an option with my landowner. Thanks!! TONY!
Okay so I have a question. I just acquired a property the very end the last season and cut food plots out but wanted your opinion on what to plant to draw deer to the food plots so they know they're there for hunting season? Its probably a 2 year old clear cut that I cleared about a quarter of an acre on the edge of Hardwoods and the thicket of the clear-cut.. I'm new to the food plots so was wondering how to get deer to be aware that there will be food there...oh and I'm in NC so there is a long growing season...
Could you frost seed switchgrass in March/April in mn. Then plant sorghum into it when soil gets warm enough for that seed?
Great info once again Jeff!!! So is it to late to plant switch grass then for 2020's hunt season? reasoning I'm asking is, because I have one more hunting season on my property till I move and trying to get the best hunting possible this year from the property and just looking at the priorities to get my access like a ghost in the woods without blowing out my whole 10acres before I even get to stand. Thanks again Jeff like I've said before just more wisdom for the sponges.
You ever plant shawnee switchgrass? It's selected from cave in rock but supposed to stand up better. My first year stand looks good so far
Jeff. I sprayed last fall on a old pasture. Then went in and mowed in December pretty short. Will that work ok for frost seeding getting the seed to the soil. Then I'll spray what you recommend this spring.
Jeff, if we are plan on frost seeing switch grass, I'm assuming we need to plan ahead and have the weeds sprayed back before we go into the cooler months or can we frost seed say into a WW/WR planting and spray the last couple weeks before temps reach 58-68 degrees? Love your video tutorials
Thank you for sharing information with us. Where is a good place to purchase switch grass and how much is it per pound?
Jeff, I'm converting an old ag feild into a switchgrass pocket my concern here in west central mich is the amount of moisture we have received in the last 4 months the feild itself hasnt been able to dry properly and is mucky in some spots is this a legitimate issue if I would want to frost seed anytime soon? Love your channal and love your advise
Off topic, but what time of year do the deer feed on the woody browse. Seems like late season it's all gone I'm I right on this.
Can you frost seed switchgrass into one of your no till plantings from the previous year and see success ? Into your brassica plots?
I hope to have a use for switch grass one day Jeff! Thanks again for some daily whitetail wisdom... Huge fan, Charles Thayer....
As always great videos. Can I plant the switchgrass by simply spraying a couple of times followed by broadcasting? No equipment needed? Also, is March a good time to do so in Eastern Ohio if bypassing frost seeding? Assuming it's too late to frost seed this winter.
Could you frost seed into an existing fallow grass field with pre-emergent spray , or would you need to till and wait until following year ??
You just need to make sure seed gets onto the soil. Of good seed to soil contact you can definitely frost seed. Of the dead grass and thatch prohibits the seed from reaching soil then you have to prepare the seed bad to frost seed next winter...
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 Do you recommend frost seeding with drill into thatch?
I’m new to this. Wondering if your could clarify. You say to frost seed, the put simozein (spelling?) 3 weeks ish prior to green up, then apply round up. Wont the round up kill the switchgrass?
Would you recommend whitetail institutes conceal or eagle seeds forage fence
Jeff- I have clover in the area that I frost seeding switchgrass. Will the 2-4D handle the clover or should I add some triclopyr to the mix?
Jeff,
Did you say that you spray simazine over top of the switch the next spring?
Hi Jeff - wondering if you cold stratify your switchgrass seed prior to planting? Specifically if planting in the spring, not pertaining to frost seeding. I'm trying to decide if I need to complete this process (stratification) on my switchgrass seeds with plans for planting in bulk this spring. Thanks in advance
Hi Tyler I never have...even my June SG did outstanding last year! Of course it was pressed into heavy soil followed by a lot of rain that was in the forecast!
Thanks for the info Jeff ,What variety of switchgrass would you recommend for central alberta?
Hey Jeff. Great information as always. Can I use the frostseed/simozene process over existing clover or do I need to kill the clover first to better expose the soil? Thanks in advance!
What did you find out
Jeff, if you drill switchgrass in the spring/summer time frame is that a waste of time for new weed competition then? I was hoping to spray weeks then a few weeks later drill switchgrass for this year.
To be clear, if I have an area to frost seed (grass field), it should have been killed with roundup last year?
IF A FROST SEED SWITCHGRASS IN OCTOBER AND I HAVE TO BURN MY CRP IN APRLIL OF THE NEXT YEAR WILL IT HURT MY NEW PLANTING OF SWITCHGRASS
Do I wait until the snow melts or put on the snow right now so it stratisfies ?
Or will it be fine to do it mid March or April if that’s when the snow melts ? Just worried about not enough time for it to stratisfy this year.
What about Alamo Switchgrass, it is supposed to be taller than cave-n-rock?
If I get switchgrass started on my parcel will it affect the farmer in any way and will it take over?
I would like to plant switchgrass in an old cow pasture that has grown up over the last few years. Just wondering if I need to prep the ground first before frost seeding or if I can through the seed ontop of all the dead weeds. And also we have a lot of snow here in MN not sure it will all be melted by March 1st. What would you suggest?
Hi Tesha! You really have to get the seed on soil...for great seed to soil contact. The best thing to do would be to spray or repeatedly till the area you are going to frost seed next year...and then get the seed on the soil before it snows. You want a firm seed bed. Often a spraying early in the spring and one towards the end if the summer will be enough...but the soil has to be open. BTW...hopefully it is! I love early Springs...
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 I was afraid you might say that. Was really hoping to get it in the ground this year. Tilling will be a huge chore lots of rocks in this area but end result will be worth it. Thanks so much for taking the time to respond to my comment!
I'll give it a shot. Hoping it works
Jeff, if i can get some exposed soil by this winter by tilling some old field up that has never had anything planted in it, and lime it, do you think I can frost sees this year?
Jeff, you answered this in a comment below. Thanks!
-Adam Fox
Can you frost seed switchgrass in the middle of a Woods
What setting do you use on an earthway 2750 for 8-10 lbs per acre?
Hi Tony! Right around 1.5 to 1.75.
Can I seed on top of the snow or wait until it melts?
If i frost seed now wont the simazine and 24D hurt the switch grass if a spray before spring green up?
It sure won't! 2-4D can injure or kill young switch and even set back mature switch...but not before germination. It is a broadleaf killer. Simazine will not hurt the switch either...also a pre emergent. I wouldn't spray either on switch after germination. I like spraying 1 pint per acre of 2-4D mixed with 2 quarts per acre of Glyphosate, and then hitting the weeds within a bed of frost seeded Switchgrass, roughly 2-4 weeks after spring green up.
Thanks Jeff this is my first year with my own property and with help from your videos I believe it can turn my property into a 5%er. I live on the eastern panhandle of West Virginia and everyone around me has the theory that if it’s brown it’s down. I haven’t found a single soul in three counties that’s interested in habitat management. It’s crazy! They have no clue what kind of hunt they are missing.
You are so welcome and man, they sure don't know what they are missing is do true! I even think my clients do not realize how much true potential that they have...I often think I have higher expectations than they do. Good luck and enjoy all of the hard work...it will be rewarded!
Thanks a million and I told my wife that my dream one day is to be in your shoes. It’s hard to find people with the passion for white tails like we have. Have a good day and god bless you and your family
@@marshalllaw6541 and now there are 3!!!
In the second year when you spray these simazeen do you spray it on the switch grass?
Symazine is a pre-emergent and can be sprayed in a field planted with switchgrass but it needs to be applied before the weeds actually break the grounds surface. Typically 3-4 weeks before spring green up depending on where you are located. If you miss that spraying window, 2,4D can be sprayed after the weeds have emerged.
Can’t wait to screen with switchgrass! Access, food plots, and property lines!Saw another comment about Egyptian wheat, I plan to screen with EW while the switchgrass fills in while I wait. Already answered my question 👍. I love these videos Jeff thanks for everything sir!
Thanks a lot JJ...sounds great and sounds like you have some great things going on this year! Make sure to check out the Heavy Duty plot screen from John...I believe even better than EW 👍 Either way tho...great plan!
Whitetail Habitat Solutions
For sure, I plan on getting with him for the plot seed as well 👍👍👍
@@jjhoran1273 thanks JJ...great guy! A huge % of my clients buy their seed from him and I receive nothing but great feedback about him ☺️ enjoy...will be Spring before we know it!
Do you need to burn switchgrass to maintain it? How have you maintained your plantings?
Does switchgrass require full sun?
What brand off switch grass
Hi Chad! Cave In Rock and I get mine from John Komp and www.northwoodswhitetails.com
how much sun does switchgrass need?
Great question! Full sun...at least 6-8 hours. That's what actually kills it or stunts it...lack of sub, typically due to the shade from weeds.
Hey Jeff, thanks for the great videos ! Can I buy the seed from Northwoods Whitetail locally (S.E. MN) or is it easiest to order online?
Hello Jeff, my question is what brand n source for Buckwheat ,planing to smother weeds n no till for fall.
Best to order online as of now. thanks
@@craigbureau4576
we will have 50 pounds of buckwheat available in Feb
thanks
Will cave in rock grow in northern Wisconsin?
Yes
we grow it in Upper Michigan with great results.
Should I break up the ground at all before frost seeding?
no
spraying glyphosate in the fall is much better
Is it possible/recommended to frost seed winter rye??
Would you recommend frost seeding over a cut corn field from the fall before? I'm concerned about seed to soil contact but don't have a way to clear the debris from the field.
Why can't you do anything without chemicals. Deer hunting should be putting chemical free healthy meat on the table. With proper management you never need chemicals for anything. The outdoor world really needs to start looking at other ways to do thing with nature instead of agenst it
Because some of us don't have giant, earth ripping, moisture robbing, erosion causing, weed seed promoting tractors and other toys to continually scar the land to create a weed infested seed bed to grow Switchgrass that continually had to be mowed to set back weeds that eventually cause a garbage stand of switch or food plots. Some of us also want our efforts to be rewarded and not taken over and destroyed by weeds. These are tips for the average landowner that do not have 10s of thousands of dollars for expensive toys...or otherwise, have the resources that someone like you does.
Just my thoughts on using chemicals in general...
No chemicals is kind of the "in" thing...but unfortunately really not practical for nearly all food plotters or deer habitat planters. It severely limits you for what you plant and it is nearly impossible to plant quality forages or habitat improvements that actually work to help your herd and hunt. It is kind of a fad right now by a lot of folks online who have very little practical knowledge about food plotting...or experience that is. If I couldn't plant food plots on private land with chemicals I would honestly just purely hunt public land. We had a lease for 4 years we just dropped last year...not totally the reason...but the fact that we couldn't use chemicals made food plotting a waste of time with limited equipment. It sounds good on paper and so eco friendly but it is not practical for 99% of food plotters. I stand for opposite of just feel good practices...I crave effective results per resources spent.
I am not ashamed to use them 🙂 And both my herd management, the herd and my hunting success is better off for it. After analyzing and then prescribing food plot programs for nearly 1000 clients in 26 states and then doing it myself since 95...that is what I have experienced. Over and over again. Sorry to sound so harsh, and I think it is important to limit chemicals when you can, but conserving soil, soil moisture, limited tillage, erosion control, building soil and soil nutrients, quality forages and quality herds based in those quality forages in the Fall...are all goals I want to accomplish with or without chemicals. So much to balance...not just chemical use. Just like the farmers around here who are my neighbors...the bulk of them use chemicals and understand the big picture.
The Summer buckwheat/Fall quality food combo is a great option-maybe the best for limiting chemicals AND allowing food plotters to efficiently plant high powered, small foodnplots. BUT, you still want to control weeds either once or twice per year. When you do not use chemicals at all, even with that combo...your efforts can lead to some pretty poor plots that really don't have enough power or efficiency to help during the Fall. It's tough and without chemicals food plots can be a waste of time...I've seen that okay out true in every way that you can plant a plot - for decades.
I'm with you on limiting chemicals, but it just isn't practical unless using big tractors, drills and crimpers. Even then you are very limited for forage and planting varieties. For example if a neighbor of mine was using that system for 20 acres of food plots next door on 200 acres, I feel I could control the daylight movement with chemicals and 3 acres of plots on my land. There just wouldn't be enough diversity next door...I could throw the deer on their land after dark. So far, far less fuel, thousands of dollars less in fertilizer and seed costs, and tens of thousands less needed in equipment...with much higher results. Oh...and a LOT less time spent. It's a balance of all...but high powered and small can often be worth several times larger and average. And so much less resources of time and money spent. That's what I work with my clients a lot on...the most bang for their resources spent. Chemicals are NOT the only concern or balance to weigh. So many resources and levels of effectiveness or efficiency to consider.
I don't even own a tractor don't have any use for one I use the right livestock for the job at the right time to manage weeds brush and grass.
Andrew, first of all let me make something TOTALLY CLEAR to you, which I'm sure Jeff will confirm, DEER BASICALLY DON'T EAT SWITCHGRASS !!! So no need to worry about having "chemical free" deer to eat. Switchgrass is a very "unique" and kinda difficult thing to plant, compared to everything else we plant for deer management. And using chemical a couple times one year and possibly once the second year to perfectly establish a switchgrass stand that could last 10 years is pretty darn insignificant in the scope of things.!!! Jeff, your suggestions/advice on the "process" to establish switchgrass are very much in line with many of the other very experienced advisors. The Only thing I might add Jeff would be to make sure people understand just how simazine works but more importantly how it can hurt you if put on to late. Simazine does last in the soil for 60 days and if conditions make it where you have to apply it to close to the soil temps reaching germination time it can really hurt you. That kinda happened in northwest WI last year with all the late snow. Anyway, thanks foe all the great input as always.!!!!
@@davidtpierce I fully understand my comment was lost on low intelligent level around there I will not be watch anymore. I have a degree in deer biology and ranch management so don't get in over your head