Hi, Jeff! I began watching your videos in January and started your management process by hinge cutting trees next to my field to provide some winter food and bedding which increased deer bedding next to my field (just north of Stevens Point) from 2 to 20 in just two days. In May, I installed a mock scrape and planted a curving food plot along the woods with clover and rye seed to establish a feeding pattern on half the plot. This week I planted the other half. I checked my camera and was amazed at pictures of 5 bucks ranging from a 6 to a 14. Your method is barely short of magic! Thanks for sharing!
Dave that is outstanding to hear...really excited for you! Congrats too...sounds like you are headed to a great deer season 👍 Really appreciate the feedback
Great informed / common sense dude. I plant 15 smaller plots per year. This guy does a great job explaining what many of us learn through trial and error over the years. The fun part is learning from mistakes; however, at some point, we wise up and start listening.
Jeff, your fall food plot blend, and more importantly your strategy, is SPOT ON and perfect. I've been using almost exactly the same blend, tweeking it from year to year, for a few years now. The results are amazing. I hunt in Buffalo Co. and the farmers around my place do their " normal" farming and harvesting and come mid October these annual fall plots are and absolute Magnet for the deer.!! It Totally increases the "fall herd" on my place and the amount of Mature bucks that show up....leaving their summer haunts and establishing themselves on and around my places. I feel it has a Ton to do with the fact I have amazing GREEN plots for them. I've always had, and still do, plant beans and corn but with the compliment of the lush fall greens it truly improved my hunting exponentially. You have so many great ideas, strategies and knowledge that you pass along but I truly think THIS is one of the best...and is also VERY easy to establish and do. As i'm sure you've experienced with doing these plots....they get more and better activity with each year you do them. !! Thanks again !!!
hhhh...man, great feedback! Folks just do realize the absolute power that they can harness with green. Especially in mixed ag area! It sure oats to be the only one in the area with green...and to experience the level of control that you can find. Really appreciate you taking the time to write! Can't wait to travel North to hunt this season 😉
Excellent stuff here Jeff. I would never have thought to layer or stagger the seeding like you pointed out. Great idea and always allows for new green shoots coming up. I shot my wad last fall just planting oats. The deer hammered them until that first Oct. frost and it turned brown and was no more good. Would never have thought to come right over the top of it with RYE without tilling etc. Thanks for sharing this great info.
Rye, Rye, Rye. Last year when Rye wasn't available in New Jersey for planting in August I just used wheat- but when I found some Rye seed in September I put it in right over the wheat and had a consistently green base into the Spring of this year. Great video. Cris
That's awesome to hear Cris! I would definitely use wheat as a substitute, but rye has some qualities that wheat doesn't...less descriminate for soil type, pH and soil temperature. More appropriate for a broader bad if food plotters... Always appreciate the feedback from you...I hope the vid helps a lot of food plotters out there!
Thank you Robert...I love it! It's been a while since I used it but I decided to get back to my roots ,🙂 really appreciate the feedback and I hope you can try it out!
Thanks for sharing this each year! Been planting winter rye for a while now. Everything you said is spot on. The deer literally did for the rye in the winter
I'm glad you posted this.my first plot I planted in mid Ohio just got browsed to the dirt already.im heading back with oats and brassicas this weekend to get it green again
Best of luck Steve! One of the first steps to getting great Fall plots that grow well, is to not plant Summer plots. Then you don't have h.the army waiting for the green to pop up. Thanks Steve...and I hope this stuff helps you out a lot
hey just wondering I didnt catch it in your video.how many lbs of buckwheat per acre do you use to grow for this no till.im definitely going to use this in newark this year.i have some swampy bottoms right next to the river that are just weeds that I think will be awesome for this.no clearing trees or brush.its screened with trees and brush already.i think the ground will be perfect without doing anything being next to the river it should be full of nutrients
I just put up my very first mock scrape yesterday. After watching the videos I finally did it, I hope this year on my small parcel I can have distinctive deer movement.
Do you have a "calendar"? I would love a wall option for my home/office that has planting dates along with other important whitetail dates. Could include adverts from seed formulas that you recommend on those dates.
I use a composition notebook that I picked up from Barnes & Noble. I keep track of everything that I do. Dates bushhogged, sprayed, tillled & seeded. How much fertilizer, type of fertilizer, seed. etc. I'm sure there is a market for what you are describing. I know I have thought about it. We should do a Crowdfunding.
I hope that this helps a little? ruclips.net/video/6ki2NkvMA_U/видео.html Unfortunately when it comes to anything planting related...that timing varies greatly from say southern Ohio to northern MN. I try to break down those in my vids and last articles. Same with the rut...I have rut timing videos for your state...articles too, all very searchable on RUclips or Google. Habitat activities are in that video tho...hope it makes sense!
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 Jeff, confirm that this is your suggestion on calendar of events. Facts / Assumptions. --Green-up in UP / Lower Pen and central to north WI is roughly the 5th to 10th May (approx only) --Last frost date for Green Bay, WI up to about Escanaba ranges between May 10th to May 15th (approx only) --Aug 1 is the target date for planting food plots; @Jeff, are doing something a bit different this year b/c in the past, you have a brassica + bean planing early (Aug 1) and cereal grain (Sept 1) planting staggered 1-month apart. This year, it looks like you are doing it all together. Please confirm I understood you correctly. --Buckwheat as a cover crop / green manure matures in 8 weeks. Therefore, to target Aug 1, calendar requires a buckwheat planting around the 1st or 2nd week June. Precipitation timing aside, one would have targeted June 8th for BW planting this year and July 27th to terminate (7 weeks). If the above assumptions / facts are true, can you please confirm the following calendar of events: Step 1. TERMINATE. Late May, terminate your plot with Gly. Assuming you have rye in your plot from last year, rye will be the first thing up the following spring including any seed that failed to germinate. You will need to kill this or the seeds will be viable when you are ready to plant in late Aug. In addition, a gly application will also terminate all weeds. This gives you a clean slate. Suggested application time, one week before planting Buckwheat. Step 2. AMEND. Amend Ph as needed Step 3. SPRING COVER PLANTING. 1st or 2nd week of June, plant buckwheat. (40 -55 lbs drilled or double if broadcasted. Reference: --ruraladvantage.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/attra-question-on-buckwheat-02-04.pdf-- -- this may be out of date) Step 4. FALL PLOT PLANTING. Plant last week of June or 1st week of Aug, no later than 8 weeks after buckwheat was planted. This is to avoid allowing the buckwheat to go seed. If you wait longer than 7 weeks, you may have a lot of buckwheat in your plot which may out-compete your desired fall planting. Therefore, you don't want the buckwheat to mature, go to seed. You just want BW to provide cover to suppress weeds and terminate easily, mechanical and / or chemical termination. FALL PLOT PLANTING PROCESS (you can get seed here: www.northwoodswhitetails.com/shop/) ------------4a. Fertilize ------------4b. Plant in one half: 100lbs acre of austrian winter peas, 40-50lbs an acre of oats, and 25lbs an acre of forage soybean ------------4c. Plant in second half: 6lbs an acres brassicas, 7-8 lbs of tillage radish ------------4d. Crimp with a culti-packer or roller crimper and spray gly for any weeds @ 2qts / acre) Step 5. SAVE. Labor day - Oct 1: Depending on success and pressure, apply 200 lbs an acres of Rye, critical that it is winter or cereal rye. You are using rye to "save" distressed or failing plots. Step 6. REPEAT. Repeat steps 1-5 following year. BUT, change which half of the plot you plant your brassicas. Plant where the beans, peas and oats were the previous year. Clarifying questions: #1. Have you figured out a way to get away from multiple applications of glyphosate? First to kill spring green-up and second to kill green manure + any weeds. Guys are looking at pure mechanical termination with a roller crimper and using rye (buffalo system). #2. Rye and hairy vetch are better cover crops than buckwheat. They hold more moisture and produce more nitrogen. What are your thoughts on substituting this combination for the buckwheat? Mine are as follows. (i) If you started with a clean slate, instead of timing Buckwheat maturity, you would need to time rye. I know very little about vetch. (ii) Alternately and more ideal, you top dress rye in Sept / Oct broadcasting 200lbs / acre and carry that through crimping to the following July. The only issue here is that rye will mature with viable seeds at the time of plating using this calendar. Concerns here is that they may out-compete your other items on the "buffet". #3. Have you had to bush hog after crimping? Stalk of buckwheat should just break. With a roller crimper this should especially be true. Just confirming whether your ran into any issues. #4. Has this model worked with small seeds like brassica? A heavy thatch can deter brassicas from germinating. They don't have a lot of gusto to push the thatch. As a result, they die after germination. I'd like to see pics of your results this year to gauge. Thanks in advance. #5. At what point does the thatch layer get too thick? Assume that everything is seeded with a no-till like a genesis or another. Thanks in advance Jeff. I know these are some of the questions that the guys are asking. I also know that if you can crack this, the only real equipment you need is a sprayer, a broadcast seeder and a culti-packer. Matt
Great, now i have to get rid of my tiller, and buy a cultipacker. Just kidding, I like what you are doing and is the easiest way to plant without expensive equipment. Thanks for all the knowledge.
Great recommendation. I must have missed this one and wish I wouldn’t have! Thanks Jeff. Your virtual mentoring is great. I went to deer steward 2 in 2018. Great course, but your stuff enhances that exponentially!
I’d like to come up at your place and just see your plots one time brother. They look so great I’d eat in your plots myself. Great video as always brother. Be safe out there GOD BLESS.
You are very welcome Zachery and that is great to hear! I hope you enjoy the journey and make sure to check out my food plot playlist...LOTS to check out!! Really appreciate your feedback...
Food plots are definitely fun, enjoyable and challenging.Hunting in and around these areas that we've worked so hard on is fulfilling...Ive been planting them for quite a few years now, (not quite to this degree), but its starting to seem as though we are evolving into deer farmers instead of deer hunters with all this.....We shouldn't forgo the dozens of native tree's and plants that whitetails utilize year round, lose our woodsmanship and become so dependent on food plots...Some balance is always wise.
Jeff, thanks for all of the great information. I have land in the Ladysmith area so it is great to get advice for thing that work in Wisconsin. I will be plant our plots using your no till method next year. I cannot wait until the snow melts. One question that I have is what setting do you use on your seed spreader for each blend?
This may sound like a stupid question, what happens to the buckwheat the following year if im planting annuals? Do i have to mulch and replant buckwheat so i can flatten it again and spread new seed into it?
Great video Jeff. Your helping slot of hunters me include. Just wondering what pea you were using in with the oats and beans. ( Cowpeas or Austrian winter pea) . I planted sunflowers and cowpeas in the spring. I Sept I'll be layering it with rye, we'll see how it works. Again thanks for the help.
I was about to buy some seed when I saw the shipping would be 3 times the amount the seed would cost. Oh well. I was looking forward to trying the Fall Forage blend.
Hi I'm 14 years old and I'm making a kill plot this year and was wondering if iron clay cowpeas and oats would make a good mix I have access to a plow a disk and a Bush hog and a broad caster. I was wanting some good feedback from you because your really helpful thanks for a good video. Because I dont want the deer to wipe out the plot before the season starts.
Jeff...GREAT VIDEO AND EXPLANATION. Do you fertilize, or is there enough debris in the fields. If you fertilize what and when? We will be finishing up on stands today, planting as you suggested today in a couple of weeks. Thanks for all the GREAT INFORMATION and detailed visuals!!!!! Bob
You are very welcome Bob...that's great it makes sense to you! I bet you are excited to plant soon ☺️ I fertilize when I spread my rye...in about 4 weeks, and just hand broadcast it.
@@rfb7117 I have to look back at my soil test...but at that time when the brassicas are 4-6 weeks old and rain is in the forecast, I broadcast about 75#s of Urea per acre, just over the brassicas. Depending on how the oats, peas and beans look...I may not fertilize that half.
Hi Jeff, does the buckwheat contribute to creating a doe factory with the increase of summer food? Your videos are great! Thanks for all your info. Love the books too!
Any problems with doing small plots of half acre split into with Brascos blend on one side and P oats on the other? So that would be a quarter acre of each side-by-side.Just worried it’s not enough ground for the P in oats do to pressure. What’s your thoughts on splitting small acreage like that?
Great video. So I live in Northern Michigan and planted buckwheat late spring to build the soil up ( learned that trick from one of your earlier videos). I planned on tilling it up and planting oats in mid August.. it grows well but now you have me thinking I need to plant winter rye. Should I skip oats and do the layering of Rye like you mention? Thanks!
My land owner doesn’t want me to use any herbicide on my lease so what should I do?? Cut all the grass down as low as I can then over seed with buckwheat and then follow your no till plan?
Jeff, great stuff. My hunting partners and i have started impliment many of your recommendations and strategies the last two years. Will the plot strategies you discussed in this video work for small half acre plots? It would mean a 1/4 acre of the peas, beans, etc blend and 1/4 acre of brassicas. Any thoughts?
I enjoyed the video; certainly appreciate the information. Maybe I missed it, but wanted to know the general location of "this area", {where the plot is}, and when you planted it? Also, those pound number amounts, are they per each acre of size or what? I planted two small patches of buckwheat for the first time this past May in only so-so Missouri Ozark soil and it thrived beyond my expectations. The one in better soil grew to between five and six feet. The deer pretty much left it alone until it got to around four feet, then they hammered the heck out of it! About all that's left of it now in mid August is stems. I'm going to do as you suggested and overseed it with winter rye and roll the remaining stems over as partial cover. The abundant small white flowers of the buckwheat are also very good for pollinators like bees and butterflies. I'll definetly grow it again. Please keep the videos coming and good luck this coming hunting season.
Hey Jeff, I have over 60 acres in Southern Iowa , Maximum Outdoors Shot a huge buck off my back 60 acres the year before Last on film. (Nathen Lee) I Have Very heavy deer traffic I have allot of woods and bedding areas also several 110 gal in ground water holes. my bottom couple acre clover chicory plot started last year came in heavy, I planted some Whitail intitute Alpha Rack Plus on about 3 or 4 acres this year also about 1/2 acre of Chufa just for a test I put in about 4 acres total in of Whitaile institute Power Plant. the Power Plant was a Bust I was also trying to use it for a buffer strip to my fields, I think it just was over grazed and we had way too much spring rain, I need a good fall / winter Plot I was thinking of tall tine tubers and big and beasty side by side an do a comparison, but last year I planted Brassicas around my clover plots and they mowed them down before the had a chance to grow ? should I go with something else or Do you think planting more will be better and they wont mow them off or I could hot wire them ? Or what would you Suggest, Thanks Jeff Larry The Iowa Hunter,
Man Larry so much to consider...it isn't as easy as discussing on here. I hope the food plot concepts help! One huge thing is the best way to make foodplots least in the Fall, is to have zero planted during the Summer. In most of the north 1/2 of the country your summer plots aren't helping the deer herd in any way. You attract huge doe fawning numbers, those does stay and then immediately hammer your Fall and Winter plots ..which are the plots that matter most to the health of the deer herd. The first step to improved Fall plots is to get rid of Summer plots. That's the first step in reducing doe numbers too. You never want to be the person with the most deer on your land during the Summer So much to consider though...the way you hunt, your planting resources, deer numbers, neighboring food sources, etc... Sounds like a great place tho! I do not plant Summer food and expect to control the mature buck movement as well as the herd building capabilities, during the hunting season. Summer food would hurt me in more ways than one.
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 That is some good information. And that is exactly what's happening on my property this year. I have unlimited does and fawns even bedding in my clover. When I moved here last year I had no food plots. but had pictures of a lot bigger Bucks . I'm not in real big Ag country. But there are some large corn and bean fields within a 500 yrds. Might have been shooting myself in the foot. I don't like to use mineral blocks during the summer I think it contributes to chronic wasting. My nephew is a federal fish and game officer And I receive a lot of info from him on chronic wasting and problems in other States. If you ever get over this way stop stop in. The beers always cold .)
@@lbriant48 ha, thanks a lot! Don't believe the hype of CWD...lots of over reaction out there. If you take the extremist position on either side and slide to the middle you will find the truth. Maybe something to talk about Iver cold beers 🙂 good luck this season...really take a hard look at that summer food. Hope it helps you out!
@@lbriant48 I keep the weeds at Bay and make sure the plots are ready to go in the Fall. This is an outstanding method I came up with nearly 20 years ago...works great and deer don't like buckwheat that much.
Tom that cultipacker is outstanding and extremely well built! I have a # for Lincoln if you like one in the description of this video. He is great to chat with!
Wow, love the info. Been thinking of hitting a top bench on my property with clover early and later in October mowing down clover and distributing winter rye. Should I broadcast before or after I mow clover?
Before you mow. The clippings will lay on top of the seed similar to straw and hold the moisture. If you mow first you have less chance of seed contacting the soil
Jeff, Is the brassica + tillage raddish half planted on the same date as the peas, oats and beans? I thought my notes from previous years had 1st half and 2nd half plantings spread a few weeks apart.
Hi John! Peas oats and beans are planted on one 1/2...Brassica planted on the other half, at the same time. Then the rye is broadcast on top of the peas/oats/rye half only roughly 4-5 weeks after the initial planting. You can add rye to the Brassica at that time too...if there has been a Brassica crop failure due to drought or deer over consumption.
Great informative video but was wondering how to plant radishes in a plot of land with a lot of tall grass? This is my first year planting a food plot and information would be greatly appreciated.
So you're just throwing the winter rye around Labor Day and letting it grow? Not rolling or packing it? I've got about 1/3 acre I'd like to throw some seed on yet that's polluted with weeds right now. Planning to seed and spray w/ glyphosate tomorrow. Lots of 24" tall stiltgrass (easy to kill) and chickweed about the same height. No cultipacker, just a 5.5' 3 pt disc harrow, which I don't want to use and allow more weed seeds to germinate. I'll employ your tactics from this video on that small plot in 2020, but this Fall, it's kind of a last-ditch-effort. I'll likely just run over it as much as possible w/ my compact tractor.
What's the mix of radish, oats and clover in the new plot? (You didn't mention lbs/acre for radish) #? radish, 50lbs oats, 10lbs clover and 200 lbs of winter rye 4 weeks later. Also, if you're no-till drilling this, what depth? Just 1/4"? Lastly, any thoughts on triticale vs rye?
Great as usual Jeff. Regarding clovers; I keep hearing that “..if I plant now it will be good for spring”; does that mean it will sit idle in the ground and not germinate? Or does it come out immediately?
Thanks a lot Ben! It just means that it won't offer a forage for this season, but it gets its roots established and explodes in the Spring. It germinates quickly tho! By far the best time to plant clover at a time when moisture is on the increase, weeds are dying and at a time when you can use a cool season forage cover crop for deer season.
Thanks a lot Mark! I love fruit trees...especially near bowstands and on food plots. Definitely not in the woods...in deer bedding, etc. Check out this apple trees and bowhunting video...hope you like it! ruclips.net/video/i_zzYWibugQ/видео.html
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 Thanks Jeff. Pretty sure I watched this one before but will rewatch. Hunt 90 acres in Farewell,MI. All is woods and rolling,rocky ground. Have carved out a half acre food plot and a 5000 sq. ft. micro plot by my stand. Property also borders 3000 acres of public land. Would any of your strategies change? Maybe future video?
Hi Jeff! Thanks so much for the information! Im really looking forward to trying this! I have two questions. How to go about planting the buckwheat in existing pasture and what is the name of the weed killer your spraying to kill everything before broadcasting?
Hi Bass! You really want to kill that pasture land ahead of time...even before this Fall. Then next year you have mostly a dead field and your will have plenty of soil exposure to get good seed to soil contact, as well as plenty of sun hitting the ground to grow the tiny plants that germinate. 2quarts per acre of glyphosate. I seed, roll/cultipack with our Packermaxx and then spray.
Thank you Chadilac...really appreciate it! Just broadcast on top of the soil. Check out "ultinate no till" in a RUclips search. That will bring up the first video and the entire process. Hope it helps!
Jeff appreciate your videos. I have 3/4 of an acre and did not plan to divide as you are suggesting in this video. If you were going to just plant 3/4 of an acre of all the same, what would your preferred mix be? Thanks in advance.
Jeff, You talk about how each plot needs to be diverse and not plant different seed mixes in different areas. What’s the best mix for micro plots where sunlight is fair and you only have 1/10-1/8 of an acre or even smaller?
That's tough Jim...the most browse resistant and shade tolerant is layered rye. Plant 100#s about 6 weeks before your first expected frost, then 100#s more per acre 3-4 weeks later and another 100#s about 3-4 weeks after that. Check out this article...that will help you out a lot! www.whitetailhabitatsolutions.com/blog/winter-rye-layered-food-plot-progression
On the previous video a guy asked you how wide do you make your TRAIL PLOTS. You answered by saying a large plot 60-100’ wide. Then attached this video. Still wondering. What would be a typical width of a trail plot? 20’ wide or 20 yards wide?
It really depends on the amount of land you have, the amount if open space...there is no right answer. I've planted them as wide as 40 yards and as narrow as 8'.
I'm taking over 2 food plots. Would it be better to kill what's there and disc it? I've had great results with whitetail institute beets and greens and wanting to use it there instead of the clover mix that it has now.
Jeff, I’ve got a 15 acre spot in a residential area where there’s a lot of deer. I called agway and asked for cereal rye. He seemed confused and said we have winter rye cover crop seed in 50lb bags and rye grass seed. What do I need to see on the bag to ensure I’m getting the rye your using? Thanks! Chad
Why not ryegrass? Cattle graze it pretty well down here in south Louisiana and we replant it every year... also, what do you suggest for low PH soil? Red dirt sandy clay...
As always much appreciated info Jeff!! Quick question on the no til. Seed into standing buckwheat, cultipack, then spray for weeds(glyphosate). The spray doesn’t harm the germination of the new seeds?
Thank you very much JJ! That's a great question that will help a lot of other folks too. No...it does not hurt the seed in any way. Glyphosate is a post emergent, so it only attacks plants in full growth, by translocating from the tip of open, full leaf to the roots. Crush and breaking the weeds and buckwheat allows the chemical to soak directly into the stem for a very fast and effective kill. It helps the buckwheat break down fast which is a good thing, so that it does not shade the young germinated food plot plants. Again tho... Glyphosate will not harm the seeds in any way.
Whitetail Habitat Solutions Great!! I’ve learned thru many failures that understanding WHY I’m doing something and learning the “Biology” so to speak, of how it works, helps make for better success..we tried the “because that’s what you do” method to little success last year. So thanks again for taking the time sir!!
Ha, too funny Matt. No...just on brand new plots clover helps to establish the pattern of use for the first year...then you get rid of it the 2nd 😉 In particular for dozer cleared wooded plots.
Another great video Jeff! What’s your opinion After you spread the seed do you think it’s best to go over it with a roller or just a use part of a cyclone fence or mesh? Thanks Jeff
In this buckwheat just a cultipacker to smash the buckwheat. And then it depends on the seed. I like to lightly disc in seeds like peas, beans and oats, and then cultipack. And then I like to spread Brassica, clover, rye, chicory...right on top of the cultipacker cuts. Really depends on the seed
Notice you use Lift 2 cameras. I wrote a Unix bash script to change the name to the create date and file name for each file then move to a designated directory. If you use a Mac and want to keep images for a season, let me know.
Would this be a good blend for southwestern Kentucky? My property is Lin an area with large tracks of woods and not much ag. Or would you recommend a different blend? Really appreciate all your information, this is my first year owning my own property and have learned a ton of your videos.
Yes definitely Toby...the only portion that you can lose is the Nitrogen if it doesn't rain for a while. I actually add 75#s of 46-0-0 (Urea) about 4-5 weeks after initial planting, just prior to a rain...
Thanks for the info! I have tried the buckwheat in the past and I missed the window to terminate it. It seemed to be very close between useful height and gone to seed. Being a little late the buckwheat regenerated very quickly and smothered my planting which caused me to have to terminate the hole plot a second time. After fifteen years of tillage the last couple of years have made me feel like a novice with my weed battles. I terminated my plots with fly twice this year and after a month of seemingly no regrow the from the weeds I tilled in my soil amendments and planted my plots. I checked on the plots today and had to terminate 2 acres again the weeds and grasses had consumed them. I would guess I opened the seed bank upon tilling in my amendments. Lots of rye and oats this year at this point and I am going to follow the no till plan you have shared very closely this coming year in hopes of winning some of the weed battle. Thanks for your response and all of the information you share freely!
@@tobyarno4295 man those weeds are tough aren't they!? You should be able to get two kills in, during the spring. A 2-4D + gly spraying at least 4 weeks prior to buckwheat. You can then spray gly once the buckwheat seed is down. Make sure that your buckwheat is only in the ground about 7 weeks then, before seeding, cultipacking and then spraying to keep it down. That spraying is important! Winning the weed war is no joke! I look forward to hear you say you won it next year!
Hi Rene...you can get them to like brassicas easily. Check out this video! www.whitetailhabitatsolutions.com/blog/brassica-strategies-for-whitetails The Brassica combo I use is a mix of various seeds. You can add peas at 50#s per acre with a Brassica blend and 25#s beans per acre, to greatly sweeten the plot
Well done!👊 The 2019 blend will be hitting our plots this weeked! When splitting your fields, do you prefer longer strips or wider blocks? With blinds on one side, would you favor brassicas or grains closer to stands? (rotation will determine this for us in time) Thanks!
Hi Sam it depends on the location. For example where I have yours being large is to maximize space....where it skinny is to now hunt and move deer. I don't worry about the location of the rotation just because those halves peak at different times. I hope that makes sense?
Hi Jeff, I have almost 3 acres of beans that were planted back in early June. They still are only about 3-4 inches high. It's pretty sandy soil and our deer density is pretty high so would fertilizing it help at this point or should I just overseed it with a fall blend?
Hi Neil, you should definitely overseed with Fall food...preferably something different on each half. You are not alone...soybean plotters rarely make it to fall unless fenced or next to big ag and ag beans production. It will only get worse as weeds die, leaves come off the trees and deer are on the move. The majority of the bean plantings on clients lands I study don't make it to deer season, unfortunately. You can have a great plot still tho...good luck 🙂
Jeff what about barley instead of rye, I see its only a few degrees less cold germination tolerant than rye, but cant find if it stays green after a few freezes. I ask because I can get barley for free. Thanks
I would definite focus on greens...but which greens depends on a host of factors. Oats, peas (you can still plant 2 weeks from now depending on where you live), Brassica blends, ...and then Winter rye later for a stable base. Going into Spring. Something green...I like splitting my plots in half and planting both sides in something different. I just think there are better options 🙂
Yeah I live in upstate New York this year most of our Ag fields are empty due to water. I planted clover last fall and I have a Brassica mix And I was thinking about putting this so called forage corn in with it because I can't get ahold of the beans or peas
@@bstreeter69 that's a tough call, I personally just rely on the greens for my land...have never had the space for corn or beans. Many of my clients do and I have to be honest I do not have experience with it. I would guess it would be tough to establish at this point of the year if you have an appreciable amount of deer in the area!
Hi Jim...check out my recent food plot videos ☺️ I haven't plowed a food plot or had one plowed, ever. Since 1995. Check these two videos out... ruclips.net/video/o7uPTcEL978/видео.html ruclips.net/video/Ed1NE9V3uN4/видео.html Hope they make sense! I don't believe in plowing at all, discing only if I had to for some reason.
Dude, those days are over! Its all about no till planting now, just google it. At very first, or with a new plot, yes till it up, and make it nice and flat, after that though, drop seed, crimp it with whatever you got, cultipacker etc. then srpay, It basically acts as a much keeps in moisture, and doesnt disturb the biotics in the ground. Less work with equal or better results
Jim, you never have to till even a new plot 😉 Just to clarify...been planting plots like this more than a decade before anyone else and it works outstanding! Also chapter 12 of my 2014 food plot book. Make sure to watch the Ultimate No Till food plot planting method. Something that I developed nearly 20 years ago...and it WORKS. Hope you had a chance to check it out ☺️
I always love your videos. Super insightful and help to wrap my head around natural ways to suck in deer. I do have a couple of questions to make sure I'm tracking. So if I was to give this a go, say I plant some buckwheat about end of May, beginning of June. Then when it comes time at the end of July to plant, are you planting the half with peas, oats, and beans at the same time you're planting the other half with the brassicas or is there a gap in your timing there? I caught that you follow up the planting of peas, oats and beans with the 200#s of rye about 4 weeks after planting, but wasn't quite sure if my assumption on the brassica planting was right or not. Thanks for all you do to make hunting awesome my man!
Dusty I really appreciate the feedback and it definitely fuels my passion for getting this info out! The Brassica and oats/pea/bean combo is planted at the same time...then like you said the rye later. Hope that helps and I look forward to hearing back from you about it next year! Thanks a lot
Boy that is so tough Jesse...probably a high quality Brassica blend in my area, hands down. Then probably layered winter rye up north or in big woods areas. All depends on the plot size, neighbors, # of deer, food plots in areas, hunting pressure, soil, planting resources ..really tough call.
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 never tried a winter rye. I'm stuck on purple top turnip and daikon oilseed radish. You get a 2 for 1. They really start eating the tops off when all the crop field get picked around here, then after the ground freezes they dig up the radish and turnips when into the winter. Finished up on planting our plots last week. I'm sure liking this slow rain we have today.
@@jesseteick891 hi Jesse I really like mixes including forage turnips, radishes and various rape seeds. About 5-6 seeds all together. Been using mixes like that since 99 and have never looked back 😉 Although you can't plant them 2 years in a row in the same spot so I rotate them and plant the quality greens like in the video, on the other side of the plot. Always rotating...
It really depends on where the bedding areas are. If you have deer in dry bedding that head to food plots or food sources in the afternoon that features dry travel, then a waterhole is great! Deer don't want to travel 100 yards the opposite way of their afternoon food sources, and then double back. If the water is in their bedding, in their afternoon travel...then a waterhole wouldn't be a good choice. I hope that helps? Check out my waterhole playlist...a LOT more info and many vids there that discuss a lot more waterhole strategy.
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 last question I promise, do you no till the buckwheat too or till then plant? Already thinking about how not to screw up next year
Jeff I’m looking to add my first food plot. But seems it can be very overwhelming. I’m located in eastern Ky. Looking to plant 1-2 acres of something on my property it’s around 50 acres around 10 acres of clear cut the rest has been select cut. Joining farm has a ton of open big mature timber. And I’d like to try to put the deer on me as much as possible. I’ve watched tons of videos but can’t seem to figure out what’s the best for my area. Do you guys sell food plot mix’s ?
Got all my Northwoods seed and I’m ready to go this weekend. Two 1/2 plots in two different areas. Can’t wait. Jeff do you get your cereal grain Rye locally or from Northwoods?
Hi I'm wondering what I should plant and when down here in south Mississippi, we are on the gulf coast. Also our hunting season doesn't start till Oct 14th
Hi Aaron, John is checking...there is a shortage of peas right now. But I also rely on John's Brassica, screening blends, Switchgrass and clover blends...have for at least 7-8 years now
Hi, Jeff! I began watching your videos in January and started your management process by hinge cutting trees next to my field to provide some winter food and bedding which increased deer bedding next to my field (just north of Stevens Point) from 2 to 20 in just two days. In May, I installed a mock scrape and planted a curving food plot along the woods with clover and rye seed to establish a feeding pattern on half the plot. This week I planted the other half. I checked my camera and was amazed at pictures of 5 bucks ranging from a 6 to a 14. Your method is barely short of magic! Thanks for sharing!
Dave that is outstanding to hear...really excited for you! Congrats too...sounds like you are headed to a great deer season 👍 Really appreciate the feedback
Great informed / common sense dude. I plant 15 smaller plots per year. This guy does a great job explaining what many of us learn through trial and error over the years. The fun part is learning from mistakes; however, at some point, we wise up and start listening.
Jeff, your fall food plot blend, and more importantly your strategy, is SPOT ON and perfect. I've been using almost exactly the same blend, tweeking it from year to year, for a few years now. The results are amazing. I hunt in Buffalo Co. and the farmers around my place do their " normal" farming and harvesting and come mid October these annual fall plots are and absolute Magnet for the deer.!! It Totally increases the "fall herd" on my place and the amount of Mature bucks that show up....leaving their summer haunts and establishing themselves on and around my places. I feel it has a Ton to do with the fact I have amazing GREEN plots for them. I've always had, and still do, plant beans and corn but with the compliment of the lush fall greens it truly improved my hunting exponentially. You have so many great ideas, strategies and knowledge that you pass along but I truly think THIS is one of the best...and is also VERY easy to establish and do. As i'm sure you've experienced with doing these plots....they get more and better activity with each year you do them. !! Thanks again !!!
hhhh...man, great feedback! Folks just do realize the absolute power that they can harness with green. Especially in mixed ag area! It sure oats to be the only one in the area with green...and to experience the level of control that you can find. Really appreciate you taking the time to write! Can't wait to travel North to hunt this season 😉
Excellent stuff here Jeff. I would never have thought to layer or stagger the seeding like you pointed out. Great idea and always allows for new green shoots coming up. I shot my wad last fall just planting oats. The deer hammered them until that first Oct. frost and it turned brown and was no more good. Would never have thought to come right over the top of it with RYE without tilling etc. Thanks for sharing this great info.
Rye, Rye, Rye. Last year when Rye wasn't available in New Jersey for planting in August I just used wheat- but when I found some Rye seed in September I put it in right over the wheat and had a consistently green base into the Spring of this year. Great video. Cris
That's awesome to hear Cris! I would definitely use wheat as a substitute, but rye has some qualities that wheat doesn't...less descriminate for soil type, pH and soil temperature. More appropriate for a broader bad if food plotters...
Always appreciate the feedback from you...I hope the vid helps a lot of food plotters out there!
I really like your no till system. Its simple and clearly works very well.
Thank you Robert...I love it! It's been a while since I used it but I decided to get back to my roots ,🙂 really appreciate the feedback and I hope you can try it out!
Thanks for sharing this each year!
Been planting winter rye for a while now. Everything you said is spot on. The deer literally did for the rye in the winter
I'm glad you posted this.my first plot I planted in mid Ohio just got browsed to the dirt already.im heading back with oats and brassicas this weekend to get it green again
Best of luck Steve! One of the first steps to getting great Fall plots that grow well, is to not plant Summer plots. Then you don't have h.the army waiting for the green to pop up. Thanks Steve...and I hope this stuff helps you out a lot
hey just wondering I didnt catch it in your video.how many lbs of buckwheat per acre do you use to grow for this no till.im definitely going to use this in newark this year.i have some swampy bottoms right next to the river that are just weeds that I think will be awesome for this.no clearing trees or brush.its screened with trees and brush already.i think the ground will be perfect without doing anything being next to the river it should be full of nutrients
I just put up my very first mock scrape yesterday. After watching the videos I finally did it, I hope this year on my small parcel I can have distinctive deer movement.
That's great to hear! Defined deer movement for any hunting - public or private - is so key! Enjoy them and I hope you added a camera nearby 🙂
Do you have a "calendar"? I would love a wall option for my home/office that has planting dates along with other important whitetail dates. Could include adverts from seed formulas that you recommend on those dates.
Anson Rinesmith agreed 100%!
Anson Rinesmith great idea!!
I use a composition notebook that I picked up from Barnes & Noble. I keep track of everything that I do. Dates bushhogged, sprayed, tillled & seeded. How much fertilizer, type of fertilizer, seed. etc. I'm sure there is a market for what you are describing. I know I have thought about it. We should do a Crowdfunding.
I hope that this helps a little?
ruclips.net/video/6ki2NkvMA_U/видео.html
Unfortunately when it comes to anything planting related...that timing varies greatly from say southern Ohio to northern MN. I try to break down those in my vids and last articles. Same with the rut...I have rut timing videos for your state...articles too, all very searchable on RUclips or Google.
Habitat activities are in that video tho...hope it makes sense!
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 Jeff, confirm that this is your suggestion on calendar of events.
Facts / Assumptions.
--Green-up in UP / Lower Pen and central to north WI is roughly the 5th to 10th May (approx only)
--Last frost date for Green Bay, WI up to about Escanaba ranges between May 10th to May 15th (approx only)
--Aug 1 is the target date for planting food plots; @Jeff, are doing something a bit different this year b/c in the past, you have a brassica + bean planing early (Aug 1) and cereal grain (Sept 1) planting staggered 1-month apart. This year, it looks like you are doing it all together. Please confirm I understood you correctly.
--Buckwheat as a cover crop / green manure matures in 8 weeks. Therefore, to target Aug 1, calendar requires a buckwheat planting around the 1st or 2nd week June. Precipitation timing aside, one would have targeted June 8th for BW planting this year and July 27th to terminate (7 weeks).
If the above assumptions / facts are true, can you please confirm the following calendar of events:
Step 1. TERMINATE. Late May, terminate your plot with Gly. Assuming you have rye in your plot from last year, rye will be the first thing up the following spring including any seed that failed to germinate. You will need to kill this or the seeds will be viable when you are ready to plant in late Aug. In addition, a gly application will also terminate all weeds. This gives you a clean slate. Suggested application time, one week before planting Buckwheat.
Step 2. AMEND. Amend Ph as needed
Step 3. SPRING COVER PLANTING. 1st or 2nd week of June, plant buckwheat. (40 -55 lbs drilled or double if broadcasted. Reference: --ruraladvantage.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/attra-question-on-buckwheat-02-04.pdf-- -- this may be out of date)
Step 4. FALL PLOT PLANTING. Plant last week of June or 1st week of Aug, no later than 8 weeks after buckwheat was planted. This is to avoid allowing the buckwheat to go seed. If you wait longer than 7 weeks, you may have a lot of buckwheat in your plot which may out-compete your desired fall planting. Therefore, you don't want the buckwheat to mature, go to seed. You just want BW to provide cover to suppress weeds and terminate easily, mechanical and / or chemical termination.
FALL PLOT PLANTING PROCESS (you can get seed here: www.northwoodswhitetails.com/shop/)
------------4a. Fertilize
------------4b. Plant in one half: 100lbs acre of austrian winter peas, 40-50lbs an acre of oats, and 25lbs an acre of forage soybean
------------4c. Plant in second half: 6lbs an acres brassicas, 7-8 lbs of tillage radish
------------4d. Crimp with a culti-packer or roller crimper and spray gly for any weeds @ 2qts / acre)
Step 5. SAVE. Labor day - Oct 1: Depending on success and pressure, apply 200 lbs an acres of Rye, critical that it is winter or cereal rye. You are using rye to "save" distressed or failing plots.
Step 6. REPEAT. Repeat steps 1-5 following year. BUT, change which half of the plot you plant your brassicas. Plant where the beans, peas and oats were the previous year.
Clarifying questions:
#1. Have you figured out a way to get away from multiple applications of glyphosate? First to kill spring green-up and second to kill green manure + any weeds. Guys are looking at pure mechanical termination with a roller crimper and using rye (buffalo system).
#2. Rye and hairy vetch are better cover crops than buckwheat. They hold more moisture and produce more nitrogen. What are your thoughts on substituting this combination for the buckwheat?
Mine are as follows. (i) If you started with a clean slate, instead of timing Buckwheat maturity, you would need to time rye. I know very little about vetch. (ii) Alternately and more ideal, you top dress rye in Sept / Oct broadcasting 200lbs / acre and carry that through crimping to the following July. The only issue here is that rye will mature with viable seeds at the time of plating using this calendar. Concerns here is that they may out-compete your other items on the "buffet".
#3. Have you had to bush hog after crimping? Stalk of buckwheat should just break. With a roller crimper this should especially be true. Just confirming whether your ran into any issues.
#4. Has this model worked with small seeds like brassica? A heavy thatch can deter brassicas from germinating. They don't have a lot of gusto to push the thatch. As a result, they die after germination. I'd like to see pics of your results this year to gauge. Thanks in advance.
#5. At what point does the thatch layer get too thick? Assume that everything is seeded with a no-till like a genesis or another.
Thanks in advance Jeff. I know these are some of the questions that the guys are asking. I also know that if you can crack this, the only real equipment you need is a sprayer, a broadcast seeder and a culti-packer.
Matt
Hey brother I’m late watching videos as usual. I’m gettin my mock scrape put in tomorrow LORD WILLING AMEN.
Great, now i have to get rid of my tiller, and buy a cultipacker. Just kidding, I like what you are doing and is the easiest way to plant without expensive equipment. Thanks for all the knowledge.
Ha, well thanks I appreciate that! Man it doesn't take much ☺️
Great recommendation. I must have missed this one and wish I wouldn’t have! Thanks Jeff. Your virtual mentoring is great. I went to deer steward 2 in 2018. Great course, but your stuff enhances that exponentially!
Fantastic video. I will be doing this as soon as there is rain forecasted.
Nice...good luck Dustin!
I’d like to come up at your place and just see your plots one time brother. They look so great I’d eat in your plots myself. Great video as always brother. Be safe out there GOD BLESS.
Great job Jeff. Gonna give the rye a try this year in my pea and oat plot.
Thank you Dave...great additional later in September for sure...hope you enjoy it!
Love the informative video. Looking 4wrd to planting plots this year. Thanks for tha video Jeff
Thanks a lot Shawn...don't you love this time of year!? I appreciate the feedback and I hope all the info helps!
Love the video. Although I wish there was one like this for central North Carolina.
Thanks for the info! Your videos have helped alot! Cant wait to plant my first food plot within the next couple of months.
You are very welcome Zachery and that is great to hear! I hope you enjoy the journey and make sure to check out my food plot playlist...LOTS to check out!! Really appreciate your feedback...
This research and experience is gold...thanks for sharing!
You are very welcome Luke...really appreciate bit and I hope it helps you a lot over the next year!
You're an extremely useful video; could not make it without ya!
Well thank you! Good luck to you
Yes brother great video as always. Be safe GOD BLESS.
Food plots are definitely fun, enjoyable and challenging.Hunting in and around these areas that we've worked so hard on is fulfilling...Ive been planting them for quite a few years now, (not quite to this degree), but its starting to seem as though we are evolving into deer farmers instead of deer hunters with all this.....We shouldn't forgo the dozens of native tree's and plants that whitetails utilize year round, lose our woodsmanship and become so dependent on food plots...Some balance is always wise.
Jeff, thanks for all of the great information. I have land in the Ladysmith area so it is great to get advice for thing that work in Wisconsin. I will be plant our plots using your no till method next year. I cannot wait until the snow melts. One question that I have is what setting do you use on your seed spreader for each blend?
This may sound like a stupid question, what happens to the buckwheat the following year if im planting annuals? Do i have to mulch and replant buckwheat so i can flatten it again and spread new seed into it?
We’ve got a 3 day buck only hunt comin in August. It was so hot last year I didn’t go. LORD willing it won’t be hot this year.
Great video Jeff. Your helping slot of hunters me include. Just wondering what pea you were using in with the oats and beans. ( Cowpeas or Austrian winter pea) . I planted sunflowers and cowpeas in the spring. I Sept I'll be layering it with rye, we'll see how it works. Again thanks for the help.
Thank you very much! I use forage peas...too cheap to buy Austrian ☺️
I was about to buy some seed when I saw the shipping would be 3 times the amount the seed would cost. Oh well. I was looking forward to trying the Fall Forage blend.
Hi I'm 14 years old and I'm making a kill plot this year and was wondering if iron clay cowpeas and oats would make a good mix I have access to a plow a disk and a Bush hog and a broad caster. I was wanting some good feedback from you because your really helpful thanks for a good video. Because I dont want the deer to wipe out the plot before the season starts.
Jeff...GREAT VIDEO AND EXPLANATION. Do you fertilize, or is there enough debris in the fields. If you fertilize what and when?
We will be finishing up on stands today, planting as you suggested today in a couple of weeks.
Thanks for all the GREAT INFORMATION and detailed visuals!!!!!
Bob
You are very welcome Bob...that's great it makes sense to you! I bet you are excited to plant soon ☺️ I fertilize when I spread my rye...in about 4 weeks, and just hand broadcast it.
Urea on the Brassica, and 0-17-17 on the beans....what do you use and how much.
thanks
@@rfb7117 I have to look back at my soil test...but at that time when the brassicas are 4-6 weeks old and rain is in the forecast, I broadcast about 75#s of Urea per acre, just over the brassicas. Depending on how the oats, peas and beans look...I may not fertilize that half.
Thanks......
What's the purpose of Urea vs just regular fertilizer recommended in soil test?
Hi Jeff, does the buckwheat contribute to creating a doe factory with the increase of summer food? Your videos are great! Thanks for all your info. Love the books too!
Thanks for the great video with so much good info
Thank you Curtis I hope that it helps!
Any problems with doing small plots of half acre split into with Brascos blend on one side and P oats on the other? So that would be a quarter acre of each side-by-side.Just worried it’s not enough ground for the P in oats do to pressure. What’s your thoughts on splitting small acreage like that?
Great video. So I live in Northern Michigan and planted buckwheat late spring to build the soil up ( learned that trick from one of your earlier videos). I planned on tilling it up and planting oats in mid August.. it grows well but now you have me thinking I need to plant winter rye. Should I skip oats and do the layering of Rye like you mention? Thanks!
Cool where in n mi, fire lake area here.
Cadillac
@@travisc8598 nice up on m66 here north of lake city. 2 months until season starts crazy
Live in north Carolina piedmont what would be the 3 times here for following your method first spray second spray third spray and planting buckwheat
Excellent video Jeff!
My land owner doesn’t want me to use any herbicide on my lease so what should I do??
Cut all the grass down as low as I can then over seed with buckwheat and then follow your no till plan?
Jeff, great stuff. My hunting partners and i have started impliment many of your recommendations and strategies the last two years. Will the plot strategies you discussed in this video work for small half acre plots? It would mean a 1/4 acre of the peas, beans, etc blend and 1/4 acre of brassicas. Any thoughts?
I enjoyed the video; certainly appreciate the information. Maybe I missed it, but wanted to know the general location of "this area", {where the plot is}, and when you planted it? Also, those pound number amounts, are they per each acre of size or what? I planted two small patches of buckwheat for the first time this past May in only so-so Missouri Ozark soil and it thrived beyond my expectations. The one in better soil grew to between five and six feet. The deer pretty much left it alone until it got to around four feet, then they hammered the heck out of it! About all that's left of it now in mid August is stems. I'm going to do as you suggested and overseed it with winter rye and roll the remaining stems over as partial cover. The abundant small white flowers of the buckwheat are also very good for pollinators like bees and butterflies. I'll definetly grow it again. Please keep the videos coming and good luck this coming hunting season.
Hey Jeff,
I have over 60 acres in Southern Iowa , Maximum Outdoors Shot a huge buck off my back 60 acres the year before Last on film. (Nathen Lee) I Have Very heavy deer traffic I have allot of woods and bedding areas also several 110 gal in ground water holes. my bottom couple acre clover chicory plot started last year came in heavy, I planted some Whitail intitute Alpha Rack Plus on about 3 or 4 acres this year also about 1/2 acre of Chufa just for a test I put in about 4 acres total in of Whitaile institute Power Plant. the Power Plant was a Bust I was also trying to use it for a buffer strip to my fields, I think it just was over grazed and we had way too much spring rain, I need a good fall / winter Plot
I was thinking of tall tine tubers and big and beasty side by side an do a comparison, but last year I planted Brassicas around my clover plots and they mowed them down before the had a chance to grow ? should I go with something else or Do you think planting more will be better and they wont mow them off or I could hot wire them ? Or what would you Suggest,
Thanks Jeff
Larry
The Iowa Hunter,
Man Larry so much to consider...it isn't as easy as discussing on here. I hope the food plot concepts help!
One huge thing is the best way to make foodplots least in the Fall, is to have zero planted during the Summer. In most of the north 1/2 of the country your summer plots aren't helping the deer herd in any way. You attract huge doe fawning numbers, those does stay and then immediately hammer your Fall and Winter plots ..which are the plots that matter most to the health of the deer herd. The first step to improved Fall plots is to get rid of Summer plots. That's the first step in reducing doe numbers too. You never want to be the person with the most deer on your land during the Summer
So much to consider though...the way you hunt, your planting resources, deer numbers, neighboring food sources, etc...
Sounds like a great place tho! I do not plant Summer food and expect to control the mature buck movement as well as the herd building capabilities, during the hunting season. Summer food would hurt me in more ways than one.
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 That is some good information. And that is exactly what's happening on my property this year. I have unlimited does and fawns even bedding in my clover. When I moved here last year I had no food plots. but had pictures of a lot bigger Bucks . I'm not in real big Ag country. But there are some large corn and bean fields within a 500 yrds. Might have been shooting myself in the foot.
I don't like to use mineral blocks during the summer I think it contributes to chronic wasting. My nephew is a federal fish and game officer And I receive a lot of info from him on chronic wasting and problems in other States. If you ever get over this way stop stop in. The beers always cold .)
@@lbriant48 ha, thanks a lot! Don't believe the hype of CWD...lots of over reaction out there. If you take the extremist position on either side and slide to the middle you will find the truth. Maybe something to talk about Iver cold beers 🙂 good luck this season...really take a hard look at that summer food. Hope it helps you out!
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 So then what do I do take out my summer food and plant in switch grass Or let the weeds habit until fall ?
@@lbriant48 I keep the weeds at Bay and make sure the plots are ready to go in the Fall.
This is an outstanding method I came up with nearly 20 years ago...works great and deer don't like buckwheat that much.
Looks like a quailty product i'd love to try but i can't see paying $30 for shipping for a 4lb bag
Of course...that is really high!
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 i looked theres cheaper options but not on his website, and i could get him on the phone
As usual great video jeff does that atv cultipacker work nice for you
Tom that cultipacker is outstanding and extremely well built! I have a # for Lincoln if you like one in the description of this video. He is great to chat with!
Wow, love the info. Been thinking of hitting a top bench on my property with clover early and later in October mowing down clover and distributing winter rye. Should I broadcast before or after I mow clover?
Before you mow. The clippings will lay on top of the seed similar to straw and hold the moisture. If you mow first you have less chance of seed contacting the soil
Best video yet!!!! Very nice...
Thank you very much I appreciate that! Always trying as best as we can 🙂
Jeff,
Is the brassica + tillage raddish half planted on the same date as the peas, oats and beans? I thought my notes from previous years had 1st half and 2nd half plantings spread a few weeks apart.
Hi John! Peas oats and beans are planted on one 1/2...Brassica planted on the other half, at the same time. Then the rye is broadcast on top of the peas/oats/rye half only roughly 4-5 weeks after the initial planting. You can add rye to the Brassica at that time too...if there has been a Brassica crop failure due to drought or deer over consumption.
I always enjoy what you have to say about food plots! What would you recommend in mostly AG country in SE Indiana
Thanks Isaac...I would try this same blend but with a later planting window...more like mid August. Something green tho for sure 😉
Great informative video but was wondering how to plant radishes in a plot of land with a lot of tall grass? This is my first year planting a food plot and information would be greatly appreciated.
So you're just throwing the winter rye around Labor Day and letting it grow? Not rolling or packing it? I've got about 1/3 acre I'd like to throw some seed on yet that's polluted with weeds right now. Planning to seed and spray w/ glyphosate tomorrow. Lots of 24" tall stiltgrass (easy to kill) and chickweed about the same height. No cultipacker, just a 5.5' 3 pt disc harrow, which I don't want to use and allow more weed seeds to germinate. I'll employ your tactics from this video on that small plot in 2020, but this Fall, it's kind of a last-ditch-effort. I'll likely just run over it as much as possible w/ my compact tractor.
What's the mix of radish, oats and clover in the new plot? (You didn't mention lbs/acre for radish) #? radish, 50lbs oats, 10lbs clover and 200 lbs of winter rye 4 weeks later. Also, if you're no-till drilling this, what depth? Just 1/4"? Lastly, any thoughts on triticale vs rye?
Great as usual Jeff. Regarding clovers; I keep hearing that “..if I plant now it will be good for spring”; does that mean it will sit idle in the ground and not germinate? Or does it come out immediately?
Thanks a lot Ben! It just means that it won't offer a forage for this season, but it gets its roots established and explodes in the Spring. It germinates quickly tho! By far the best time to plant clover at a time when moisture is on the increase, weeds are dying and at a time when you can use a cool season forage cover crop for deer season.
Great videos Jeff! Look forward to them. Wondering if you ever use or recommend fruit trees?
Thanks a lot Mark! I love fruit trees...especially near bowstands and on food plots. Definitely not in the woods...in deer bedding, etc. Check out this apple trees and bowhunting video...hope you like it!
ruclips.net/video/i_zzYWibugQ/видео.html
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 Thanks Jeff. Pretty sure I watched this one before but will rewatch. Hunt 90 acres in Farewell,MI. All is woods and rolling,rocky ground. Have carved out a half acre food plot and a 5000 sq. ft. micro plot by my stand. Property also borders 3000 acres of public land. Would any of your strategies change? Maybe future video?
Hi Jeff! Thanks so much for the information! Im really looking forward to trying this! I have two questions. How to go about planting the buckwheat in existing pasture and what is the name of the weed killer your spraying to kill everything before broadcasting?
Hi Bass! You really want to kill that pasture land ahead of time...even before this Fall. Then next year you have mostly a dead field and your will have plenty of soil exposure to get good seed to soil contact, as well as plenty of sun hitting the ground to grow the tiny plants that germinate.
2quarts per acre of glyphosate. I seed, roll/cultipack with our Packermaxx and then spray.
Thanks Jeff!
How did you plant the buckwheat in june? Broadcasted over dirt or do you need to till to establish buckwheat? You rock by the way!
Thank you Chadilac...really appreciate it! Just broadcast on top of the soil. Check out "ultinate no till" in a RUclips search. That will bring up the first video and the entire process. Hope it helps!
Jeff appreciate your videos. I have 3/4 of an acre and did not plan to divide as you are suggesting in this video. If you were going to just plant 3/4 of an acre of all the same, what would your preferred mix be? Thanks in advance.
Awesome blend! Do you top seed rye over the brassica as well as the peas and oats? Thanks!
Thanks a lot G lock! Just the oats, peas and beans half...unless the Brassica did not grow or was overbrowsed.
Whitetail Habitat Solutions Gotcha. Thank you for the feedback. Seed is ping in the ground next weekend here in NY!
Jeff,
You talk about how each plot needs to be diverse and not plant different seed mixes in different areas. What’s the best mix for micro plots where sunlight is fair and you only have 1/10-1/8 of an acre or even smaller?
That's tough Jim...the most browse resistant and shade tolerant is layered rye. Plant 100#s about 6 weeks before your first expected frost, then 100#s more per acre 3-4 weeks later and another 100#s about 3-4 weeks after that.
Check out this article...that will help you out a lot! www.whitetailhabitatsolutions.com/blog/winter-rye-layered-food-plot-progression
On the previous video a guy asked you how wide do you make your TRAIL PLOTS. You answered by saying a large plot 60-100’ wide. Then attached this video. Still wondering. What would be a typical width of a trail plot? 20’ wide or 20 yards wide?
It really depends on the amount of land you have, the amount if open space...there is no right answer. I've planted them as wide as 40 yards and as narrow as 8'.
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 thanks.
Awesome video great info.. what would u recommend adding to a small clover plot with out killing it.wana leave the clover there
I'm taking over 2 food plots. Would it be better to kill what's there and disc it? I've had great results with whitetail institute beets and greens and wanting to use it there instead of the clover mix that it has now.
Jeff,
I’ve got a 15 acre spot in a residential area where there’s a lot of deer. I called agway and asked for cereal rye. He seemed confused and said we have winter rye cover crop seed in 50lb bags and rye grass seed. What do I need to see on the bag to ensure I’m getting the rye your using?
Thanks!
Chad
I know you wasn't asking me, but the winter rye, cereal rye, grain rye are all the same. If you see the word grass after rye run away.
I’d just like to see the deer tracks in your plots.
Why not ryegrass? Cattle graze it pretty well down here in south Louisiana and we replant it every year... also, what do you suggest for low PH soil? Red dirt sandy clay...
As always much appreciated info Jeff!! Quick question on the no til. Seed into standing buckwheat, cultipack, then spray for weeds(glyphosate). The spray doesn’t harm the germination of the new seeds?
Thank you very much JJ! That's a great question that will help a lot of other folks too. No...it does not hurt the seed in any way. Glyphosate is a post emergent, so it only attacks plants in full growth, by translocating from the tip of open, full leaf to the roots. Crush and breaking the weeds and buckwheat allows the chemical to soak directly into the stem for a very fast and effective kill. It helps the buckwheat break down fast which is a good thing, so that it does not shade the young germinated food plot plants. Again tho... Glyphosate will not harm the seeds in any way.
Whitetail Habitat Solutions Great!! I’ve learned thru many failures that understanding WHY I’m doing something and learning the “Biology” so to speak, of how it works, helps make for better success..we tried the “because that’s what you do” method to little success last year. So thanks again for taking the time sir!!
Jeff Sturgis using clover?!? What has happened?? Jokes aside...does your new property have less ag around it to feed the deer during the summer?
Ha, too funny Matt. No...just on brand new plots clover helps to establish the pattern of use for the first year...then you get rid of it the 2nd 😉 In particular for dozer cleared wooded plots.
So you put your seed down in the buckwheat and then knock it down and put the glyphosate down with the seed already on the ground?
What would be good for swamp land and area with lots of cove with saw grass
Would this blend and dates apply to northern mn, as in 1 hour south of fort Francis Canada??
If I can't do the Buckwheat in the spring, can I seed the Oats/Peas/Beans into the old grass in the field, culti-pack, then spray?
Another great video Jeff! What’s your opinion After you spread the seed do you think it’s best to go over it with a roller or just a use part of a cyclone fence or mesh? Thanks Jeff
In this buckwheat just a cultipacker to smash the buckwheat. And then it depends on the seed. I like to lightly disc in seeds like peas, beans and oats, and then cultipack. And then I like to spread Brassica, clover, rye, chicory...right on top of the cultipacker cuts. Really depends on the seed
Thansk
@@outdoorfamilytraditions9352 sure thing!
Notice you use Lift 2 cameras. I wrote a Unix bash script to change the name to the create date and file name for each file then move to a designated directory. If you use a Mac and want to keep images for a season, let me know.
Would this be a good blend for southwestern Kentucky? My property is Lin an area with large tracks of woods and not much ag. Or would you recommend a different blend? Really appreciate all your information, this is my first year owning my own property and have learned a ton of your videos.
I have to ask what about fertilizer? Throw it in and leave it on top of the ground?
Yes definitely Toby...the only portion that you can lose is the Nitrogen if it doesn't rain for a while. I actually add 75#s of 46-0-0 (Urea) about 4-5 weeks after initial planting, just prior to a rain...
Thanks for the info! I have tried the buckwheat in the past and I missed the window to terminate it. It seemed to be very close between useful height and gone to seed. Being a little late the buckwheat regenerated very quickly and smothered my planting which caused me to have to terminate the hole plot a second time. After fifteen years of tillage the last couple of years have made me feel like a novice with my weed battles. I terminated my plots with fly twice this year and after a month of seemingly no regrow the from the weeds I tilled in my soil amendments and planted my plots. I checked on the plots today and had to terminate 2 acres again the weeds and grasses had consumed them. I would guess I opened the seed bank upon tilling in my amendments. Lots of rye and oats this year at this point and I am going to follow the no till plan you have shared very closely this coming year in hopes of winning some of the weed battle. Thanks for your response and all of the information you share freely!
@@tobyarno4295 man those weeds are tough aren't they!? You should be able to get two kills in, during the spring. A 2-4D + gly spraying at least 4 weeks prior to buckwheat. You can then spray gly once the buckwheat seed is down. Make sure that your buckwheat is only in the ground about 7 weeks then, before seeding, cultipacking and then spraying to keep it down. That spraying is important! Winning the weed war is no joke! I look forward to hear you say you won it next year!
What peas do you use and is the Brassica mix more than Turnips and Radishes? Deer in my area do not like Turnips and Radishes.
Hi Rene...you can get them to like brassicas easily. Check out this video!
www.whitetailhabitatsolutions.com/blog/brassica-strategies-for-whitetails
The Brassica combo I use is a mix of various seeds. You can add peas at 50#s per acre with a Brassica blend and 25#s beans per acre, to greatly sweeten the plot
Can I put lime down with a tiller? We raise chickens for Tyson and it's currently being used?
I just coat the ground with lime...has always worked great. Sometimes have tilled it in...some times not.
Well done!👊 The 2019 blend will be hitting our plots this weeked! When splitting your fields, do you prefer longer strips or wider blocks? With blinds on one side, would you favor brassicas or grains closer to stands? (rotation will determine this for us in time) Thanks!
Hi Sam it depends on the location. For example where I have yours being large is to maximize space....where it skinny is to now hunt and move deer. I don't worry about the location of the rotation just because those halves peak at different times. I hope that makes sense?
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 Sounds good. We will be experimenting with it to see how it goes. Thanks for the reply!👍
If i did a mix that has winter rye, clover oats, tillage radish would that work in a small plot or would there be better variety of plants
Hi Jeff, I have almost 3 acres of beans that were planted back in early June. They still are only about 3-4 inches high. It's pretty sandy soil and our deer density is pretty high so would fertilizing it help at this point or should I just overseed it with a fall blend?
Hi Neil, you should definitely overseed with Fall food...preferably something different on each half. You are not alone...soybean plotters rarely make it to fall unless fenced or next to big ag and ag beans production. It will only get worse as weeds die, leaves come off the trees and deer are on the move. The majority of the bean plantings on clients lands I study don't make it to deer season, unfortunately. You can have a great plot still tho...good luck 🙂
A I understand it, you sow your seed blend, then roll over the buckwheat, then glysophosphate. Is your seed blend roundup ready?
Jeff what about barley instead of rye, I see its only a few degrees less cold germination tolerant than rye, but cant find if it stays green after a few freezes. I ask because I can get barley for free. Thanks
You said to NOT mix peas/beans with rye, only oats. Why? Thanks!
Just very light oats...or none at all.
I'm taking out the oats this year too. You add rye about 4 to 6 weeks later at a very heavy rate...200#s+
This may be a stupid question, but what brand/type soybean you use. I live in thumb of Michigan
Not a stupid question at all...just the cheapest soybean the feed mill has...typically some variety of forage soybean.
So how big is that food plot in total size combined?
Do you plant cow peas or winter peas in this mix? Thanks.
How would you adjust these rates if I were to seed with a no till drill?
Is there anything wrong with planting forage corn this time of year because I can't get my hands on beans or peas soon enough?
I would definite focus on greens...but which greens depends on a host of factors. Oats, peas (you can still plant 2 weeks from now depending on where you live), Brassica blends, ...and then Winter rye later for a stable base. Going into Spring. Something green...I like splitting my plots in half and planting both sides in something different.
I just think there are better options 🙂
Yeah I live in upstate New York this year most of our Ag fields are empty due to water. I planted clover last fall and I have a Brassica mix And I was thinking about putting this so called forage corn in with it because I can't get ahold of the beans or peas
@@bstreeter69 that's a tough call, I personally just rely on the greens for my land...have never had the space for corn or beans. Many of my clients do and I have to be honest I do not have experience with it. I would guess it would be tough to establish at this point of the year if you have an appreciable amount of deer in the area!
Hey Jeff I noticed you are putting out seed but have not turned over the ground yet. Did you come back later and plow it in?
Hi Jim...check out my recent food plot videos ☺️ I haven't plowed a food plot or had one plowed, ever. Since 1995. Check these two videos out...
ruclips.net/video/o7uPTcEL978/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/Ed1NE9V3uN4/видео.html
Hope they make sense! I don't believe in plowing at all, discing only if I had to for some reason.
Dude, those days are over! Its all about no till planting now, just google it. At very first, or with a new plot, yes till it up, and make it nice and flat, after that though, drop seed, crimp it with whatever you got, cultipacker etc. then srpay, It basically acts as a much keeps in moisture, and doesnt disturb the biotics in the ground. Less work with equal or better results
Jim, you never have to till even a new plot 😉 Just to clarify...been planting plots like this more than a decade before anyone else and it works outstanding! Also chapter 12 of my 2014 food plot book. Make sure to watch the Ultimate No Till food plot planting method. Something that I developed nearly 20 years ago...and it WORKS. Hope you had a chance to check it out ☺️
I always love your videos. Super insightful and help to wrap my head around natural ways to suck in deer. I do have a couple of questions to make sure I'm tracking. So if I was to give this a go, say I plant some buckwheat about end of May, beginning of June. Then when it comes time at the end of July to plant, are you planting the half with peas, oats, and beans at the same time you're planting the other half with the brassicas or is there a gap in your timing there? I caught that you follow up the planting of peas, oats and beans with the 200#s of rye about 4 weeks after planting, but wasn't quite sure if my assumption on the brassica planting was right or not. Thanks for all you do to make hunting awesome my man!
Dusty I really appreciate the feedback and it definitely fuels my passion for getting this info out! The Brassica and oats/pea/bean combo is planted at the same time...then like you said the rye later. Hope that helps and I look forward to hearing back from you about it next year! Thanks a lot
Hi Jeff. If you had to choose one seed to plant what would it be?
Boy that is so tough Jesse...probably a high quality Brassica blend in my area, hands down. Then probably layered winter rye up north or in big woods areas. All depends on the plot size, neighbors, # of deer, food plots in areas, hunting pressure, soil, planting resources ..really tough call.
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 never tried a winter rye. I'm stuck on purple top turnip and daikon oilseed radish. You get a 2 for 1. They really start eating the tops off when all the crop field get picked around here, then after the ground freezes they dig up the radish and turnips when into the winter. Finished up on planting our plots last week. I'm sure liking this slow rain we have today.
@@jesseteick891 hi Jesse I really like mixes including forage turnips, radishes and various rape seeds. About 5-6 seeds all together. Been using mixes like that since 99 and have never looked back 😉 Although you can't plant them 2 years in a row in the same spot so I rotate them and plant the quality greens like in the video, on the other side of the plot. Always rotating...
Great info Jeff, Thanks again
You are very welcome...hope it all made sense!
Hey Jeff are you seeding before you apply Round up or after?
Hey Jeff should I have a waterhole even if I have streams running down the sides of my property?
It really depends on where the bedding areas are. If you have deer in dry bedding that head to food plots or food sources in the afternoon that features dry travel, then a waterhole is great! Deer don't want to travel 100 yards the opposite way of their afternoon food sources, and then double back.
If the water is in their bedding, in their afternoon travel...then a waterhole wouldn't be a good choice. I hope that helps? Check out my waterhole playlist...a LOT more info and many vids there that discuss a lot more waterhole strategy.
Is there a certain type or brand of winter rye that you use?
Hi Jonathan..."no", it is really all the same. Winter Rye, Fall Rye, Rye Grain...whatever the local feed mill has.
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 thanks, kind of what I fugured, I'm still new to all this food plotting
@@jonathananderson4204 good question tho...a lot of people ask that question!
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 last question I promise, do you no till the buckwheat too or till then plant? Already thinking about how not to screw up next year
Whitetail Habitat Solutions l
Jeff,u make reference to I think u say pea breakers,what is that?no one has heard of it
Ha, I'm not sure what that is either? I probably mumbled or something 🙂 Do you know at what timing it was?
Jeff I’m looking to add my first food plot. But seems it can be very overwhelming. I’m located in eastern Ky. Looking to plant 1-2 acres of something on my property it’s around 50 acres around 10 acres of clear cut the rest has been select cut. Joining farm has a ton of open big mature timber. And I’d like to try to put the deer on me as much as possible. I’ve watched tons of videos but can’t seem to figure out what’s the best for my area. Do you guys sell food plot mix’s ?
Where do you purchase your seed mix from?
Jeff, the dead debris doesn’t cause an issue when you go to seed the winter rye at Labor Day?
Got all my Northwoods seed and I’m ready to go this weekend. Two 1/2 plots in two different areas. Can’t wait. Jeff do you get your cereal grain Rye locally or from Northwoods?
That's great Donald...I get mine from John but I pick it up. Sometimes locally tho...
Hi I'm wondering what I should plant and when down here in south Mississippi, we are on the gulf coast. Also our hunting season doesn't start till Oct 14th
Wheres the best place to buy seed ,in a short amount of time,
Usually your local co-op or feed store
Does that seed company sell your personal blend?
Hi Aaron, John is checking...there is a shortage of peas right now. But I also rely on John's Brassica, screening blends, Switchgrass and clover blends...have for at least 7-8 years now