How to operate / work a Hasselblad 500cm Camera Kit
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- See all of my Hasselblad eBay listings by clicking this link: goo.gl/R3ZbbY
This is some basic operation of the Hasselblad 500cm Camera with A12 magazine and 80mm C T* lens.
If you are looking for any specific Hasselblad gear email me at eBayspiritandtruth@gmail.com and let me know what you are looking for. I have a nice stock of Hasselblad equipment. It is my specialty and I have been selling Hasselblad for more than 12 years now.
I buy camera gear too if you want to sell anything. Just email me.
No wasted words, straight to the point. Thanks for the great video!
My 500cm just arrived in the mail today. This video is excellent - it really got me going in the right direction. Seems like everything is functioning as it should. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I am very glad the video helped you. Thank you for your very nice comments and I hope you have a lot of joy using your Hasselblad. Ask any questions you have here anytime or email me at the email address I supplied under the video.
Thanks for this. I viewed this a couple of times before I got my 500C/M and it benefitted me greatly when I finally bought one. I could immediately handle the camera fairly well even given a slightly different finder and a CF lens. Good stuff!
One little quirk that is unique to the Blads that needs to be mentioned is that the body's rear flaps are linked to the shutter release almost like a bulb mode. They operate independent of the leaf shutter so if you're shooting slower speeds and let go of the release too soon you can cut off your exposure and end up underexposed. You have to get in the habit of holding down the shutter until the enclosure is done.
thank you for clarifying this - I was just reading the manual which states something similar but I couldn't fully understand the logic
Hello João Alff. Sorry for the late reply. When you hold the camera button in on a hasselblad the doors will stay open as long as you hold the button but you are correct - the shutter on the lens will still cycle then close. But if you press the camera button and let go of the button fast then the rear doors should open and close all the way equally as fast. If you press the camera button and let it go fast and the rear doors stay open then your camera most likely needs a main spring repair.
Excellent and very helpful video -- helped me understand the Hassy like nothing else I've seen. Thank you.
I must need to say thank to you as I just got my first hasselblad camera (500cm) but I reli cant figure out how can use it. With your detail description I sure I can work on it.
Thanks!
Old cameras are bad ass. I love the way the f stop and shutter are locked together.
Very helpful. Just got a 500c, lenses and accessories and your video clearly explained the basics, which is exactly what I needed. 5*
Still a great tutorial. Thank you. I just bought my 500cm and now I know how to use it!
Really straight forward and easy to listen to, thank you kindly!
Hope you are enjoying your new Hasselblad. Thanks for the nice words.
You were great, not to worry about how you "sounded". Your knowledge will help countless folks I'm sure!
Reason why I am watching this and putting digital aside after 2 years shooting nothing but the best from dslr bodies and lenses. I got my eyes and heart out for a Hassy now :)
GREAT VIDEO! Very useful.
@Rinraen Hello, you have to press the shutter release button & then rotate the "BIG" crank on the side of the body to advance the film. U do NOT have to rotate the little crank each time on the magazine. U only use that little crank on the side of the mag to get the film started when you load it & then to crank the film to the end of the roll when ur done shooting. U had to of cranked the camera each time after you took a shot or else it will not let you shoot again so you should be fine.
thank you very much I recently got hooked on medium format after buying a yashica-mat, and decided to invest in a hasselblad 500elm. This video helped alot learning the basics. Thanks!
Can you share about mirror lockup mode, how to enable/disable it, and how it works properly please?
Thanks for the video, it was clear and articulate.
Thanks for the great overview. Nice to know where to find quality Hasselblad parts if I ever need them.
I haven't used a hasselblad in quite a while and this video was most helpful! Thank you very much!
Truly I have never seen a more lovely and utterly superbly executed video and what you have done through your deep synch and connect with this wonderful Rolls-Royce of cameras is first class first. I would be ever so grateful if you could guide me to get my black leather to get back it’s original deep rich black colour as it’s not a rich black any more. The chrome is great. God bless you with His Gracious Grace always. Cyrus India
Thanks for the video, very helpful. I just aquired a 501cm, can't wait to shoot and dev some 6x6!
@shiridenovo The orange numbers are EV values. You see these on light meters & they are used with most of the Hass meter prisms. The meter prism will give you an EV value & then you can put the arrow on the lens on the EV value the meter gave you & then the EV value will give you your aperture/speed combinations for that reading. Common faults are lens speeds.Always put the lens on 1 second & fire it. The speed should be good & constant. If it starts/stops or pauses the speeds need CLA.
Yes, that is an A12 back which will shoot 12 images on a 120 roll of film. The A24 magazines shoot 220 film and will give you 24 images. Some people don't know that you can also shoot 120 film in an A24 magazine but if you do then usually you will only get 11 images on a 12 shot roll due to paper thickness which in turn affects spacing. But in a needed situation it's nice to be able to at least use 120 film in an A24 magazine.
Its a beauty. What ever you need is there.
Great tutorial!! crystal clear and very instructive... but I must say... sometimes I felt I was being intructed on how to operate an M1 carbine... ;)
@shiridenovo To clarify, you have to set the lens at f/2.8 with the shutter & aperture blades completely OPEN to check the glass on the lens. Small cleaning marks are common & affect nothing except the "value" of the lens. Look closely for fungus ( looks like spider webs ) especially towards the edges. I have people sell me glass all the time & they say it's perfect but so often there are problems when I shine the light through the glass. It happens way more often than I care to experience.
I bought a 500cm 3 months and last week a mamiya RB s and I prefer the japanese follow.
Yes, because of the metal slide that is inserted into the magazine. The camera body will not allow you to remove the magazine unless the metal slide is inserted into the magazine so that it protects the film from light.
Very important lesson I learned today. You can’t remove the back until you have the metal dark screen inserted.
Yes, as long as the metal slide is still in the magazine and the insert stays in. Do not pull out the insert with unwound exposed film on it or your images will be exposed to light and lost. Then once you have shot your last shot and you wind the film to the end - then you can then remove the insert and pull out the film. It still may be good to do all of this in the dark somewhere.
After the shooting the 12th photo;
just turn the knob/crank at the
right side of the body.
The same with EL/M and other bodies.
The mirror comes down.
The shutter will be cocked.
The shutter will be opened.
The aperture will be opened to the maximum.
The 12th exposure must be transported.
The whole camera will be blocked; exept
the A12 back.
Turn the crank of the A12 back till it runs
with res friction.
Replace the darkslide.
Open the A12 and take out the insert.
Take out the exposed roll, turn it by hand a 360 degrees.
Stick the white paper to close the roll.
Store the exposed film (not in sunlight) in a safe place.
Put the empty spool to the oppesite take up position.
Place the next film and mind the speed of the new film.
What to do with A16, A16S and A24 backs?
Almost the same after the 16th or 24 exp,osure;
just turn the crank of the A16, A16S and A24 backs.
Etc, etc.
The same to the M12. M16 and M16S backs.
Oops, pressed enter on accident....anyways. That lever attached to the shutter release is very important if you want to use the self timer, which I always do. If you don't turn that lever to "T" you won't expose your film. That lever locks the secondary shutter up during the timer so when you release the shutter button, the doors don't close on you.
probably the one he is showing here, the 500cm. they are pretty common, not the most expensive and fairly recent too, therefore usually in good condition. good luck
Why thank you Sarah. How very kind of you!
I've recently purchased a 50th Anniversary golden blue Hassleblads. Its never been out of the box since it was built. One problem I've found is that the rear curtains sometimes jams open and it either realeses itself after some time or I need to press the button on the right hand side of the camera. I've taken it to a store and they say its a simple fix but the problem is that the screws on the bottom of the camera are gold and they are too scared to undo them incase they scratch them.
your camera always nice condition and very clean. i'm the one who brought 903 swc more than 5 year ago.
@shellsx2211218 The lever beneath the crank is the mirror lock up button. You should never have to use it to make your camera work properly. That function is rarely used. The proper procedure for a Hasselblad body is this. Then the camera is cranked to the read position then the shutter doors should be completely closed. When you fire the camera they should open and close immediately ( if no lens is on the body ). Then you crank the camera to ready again & do it all over again.
From my experience i had the following issues:For self timer you need the camera shutter setting on T or else the courtains will close and the compur shutter will fire after 8 sec and not expose the film. If you are using longer exposure times like 1sec, again the courtains will close before the exposure is finished and you will underexpose. You need to keep the shutter button pressed longer than 1 sec. If you have the film cassete on 1 st frame but the body has the red dot (shutter not cocked) you will lose the 1st frame when advancing/cocking shutter.
very useful no nonsense guide. thank you!
Just bought this thing, awesome awesome awesome!
Just fire the camera and then crank it back to the set position. The mirror should be down. Then take the lens and make sure you can see all the way through the lens. This will mean that the shutter is in the set position. If you cannot see all the way through the lens then simply look at the rear of the lens. You will see a slotted key chuck on the back of the lens. Take a coin and turn that key clockwise until it stops and until the shutter opens in the lens. Then mount it 2 camera.
Very helpful for new users! Thanks!
If you intend to use a digital back later then you can use any body so long as you would use a digital back that has been made to fit the V series bodies. So that is the most important part. If the digital back is made to fit the V series then it should work with any 'blad body because they all have the same exact rear mount. But I would suggest a 503cw body or a 555eld body as they were the last and newest models made.
@sollerboy I would say your light traps need to be replaced. As far as any debris on your film I would simply remove the insert from the magazine and get a can of air or use a compressor to blow out any debris from within the magazine. I have seen some magazines that were horribly dirty and all of this dirt and debris will get onto your film. I also spray windex on a paper towel and reach in and clean out the inside of the magazine then take a brush of some kind and wipe out all the dust.
It depends on the extent of the damage but after selling the gear for over 12 years now I can tell you that the only problem I have encountered is usually a main spring breaking in the bodies. It causes the rear doors of the body from opening & closing properly. Repair cost is usually around usd $150. With lenses they will sometimes have slow intermittent speeds at the 1 and 1/2 second. It means they need lube,clean,& adjust & cost is usually also around usd $150. Those R only problems I see.
Funny. One doesn't realize how it comes off to others in these videos. I never even thought about what you're mentioning here. Thanks for the note.
I didn't have any film to show them. I thought that would be understood but thank you for pointing out that it needs to go under the guides.
Really instructive video. I am buying a 500C today and that helps me a lot ! Cheers !
The 500cm is great to buy but you may have to get used to the vignetting of the image when focusing with longer focal length lenses. Some find it annoying compared to newer bodies with the gliding mirror system the problem was solved. 500cm doesnt vignette the final image but you have to get used to it when you shoot with it. They made the model for 30 years so it obviously wasnt a huge issue. Bodies with the improved gliding mirror system are the 500elx, 553elx, 555eld, 501cm, & 503cw.
My apologies for the delayed reply. I hope to reply more promptly in the future. When a lens is set to 15 this simply means that the shutter is going to open and close in 1/15th of one second. Once you fire the camera then the shutter blades on a Hasselblad lens should open and close in that 1/15th of a second ( if that is the speed it is set to ) and when the cycle is finished the shutter blades should be closed. With zero opening. There may be a mechanical problem with the lens you tried.
BY the way, these have INTERCHANGEABLE lenses, you did NOT show this, aka how the lenses come off (this is where you CAN jam things up), so wished you could have shown it.
He did not read the manual yet.
@shiridenovo Also, check lens glass by shining a flashlight through the glass & see what you see. Most NEVER do this. The only problems I ever see with a Hass are: bad lens speeds, rear doors stay open when they should close, or the magazine counter does not stop at "1." These aren't "common" but happen more than anything else. Anything else would be a very rare instance. They are very durable cameras & mostly the only problems are what I mentioned unless the camera has been abused or dropped.
Neglected to mention the importance of making sure the film leader goes between the pressure plate and the little steel flange at the edge of the pressure plate when loading the insert. The release knob is then turned to clamp the flange, holding the film leader securely. Then the insert is placed back into the magazine, the release knob is again turned, this time releasing the film leader and locking the insert into the magazine. I've bungled this once or twice, so thought I'd share it.
Hello, the cost of a 500cm depends on condition and age. The price ranges from $400 for ugly to $2000 for perfect. The average price is probably somewhere around $700 to $800 for the lens, body, and magazine but like anything else prices vary. I would suggest a 501cm kit or if that costs to much and you shoot on a tripod always then a 500elx body, lens, and magazine. The 500elx camera has all features of a newer 501cm but the elx has TTL capability too but heavier. Very inexpensive bodies.
Fabulous Hasselblad high-detail. God bless you. I own a lovely 1986 500 C/M and want to get the black leather to get its original jet black look. What do I use on the leather? Cyrus
Hey thanks for the nice words. Fantastic that we've done business together. Hope your 903swc has served you well.
you do not need the darkslide to load film. Only if you're changing backs mid-roll
Thanks a LOT! Could you elaborate a little more on the viewfinders? Types and applications?
question: if the shutter button remains depressed the curtain will stay open. However, if even if you do that, the aperture rings on the lens should close first right? So i guess a good habit is to hold the shutter button at least slightly longer than the slowest shutter speed.
Jeff but I'm going to reply now for the sake of others who may also have this question. Everything depends on your budget & the functions you desire. Someone with a low budget & who mostly shoots on tripod should buy a 500elx. It offers TTL plus has the gliding mirror system so there is no vignetting of the image when focusing. They are dirt cheap relatively speaking. The 501cm and 503cw would be what to get it you have a good budget. 500cm was made from late 60's to 90's so know the age.
Thank you.
Great video, thanks
Because the Hasselblad is THAT special.
Seriously, it's because I have to take shots of my cameras to put them up for sale online so I don't want to get a bunch of fingerprints on them. I take a lot of big close up photos of what I sell and any fingerprints will be very pronounced. It just saves me a lot of time.
I just got one and the waist level finder won’t pop up. It’s very tight on one side. I’ve tried messing with it to try to align it back.no luck. I may just get a prism finder.
Hasselblad...mechanical works of art.
Unfortunately, the camera WILL fire if the dark slide (film sheath) is only very slightly pulled out.. Yes! When The sheath is pulled out by only 1/8" approximately the camera will fire, giving the impression all is well. Obviously, this is much more of a problem than the camera not firing at all, because your pictures come out blank (black). Just as it is possible to not notice when the sheath is all the way in... it is hardly more noticeable that it is STILL THERE, but sticking out by just enough to allow firing, and fool you that everything is OK.
I hope this helps.
+effyleven So, in other words, taking it completely out is the best way to go, rather than leaving it partly in. This can be done on some of the Crown Graphic Graflex cameras, but apparently not on these Hasselblads.
Derrick Tyson Dead right, Derrick! With the traditional film-shooting Hassy, it is good to develop the discipline of pulling out the film sheath completely every time, and putting it somewhere separate from the camera. Now, it happens that it is sized almost perfectly for tucking in the back pocket, but this itself is NOT a good storage place. Reason? You sit down for a coffee break, and the darn thing gets BENT in there.... (which fact has no doubt been a useful revenue source to the company, selling us new ones!) Alternatively, you can store the sheath in the breast pocket of your shirt... but that's best if the pocket can be buttoned closed, to stop the thing falling out when you bend over.
Best of all is to invest in the most recent version of the Hassy film back/magazine. It has a rigid black plastic pocket built onto the rear face, where the film sheath can be stored safe, secure, and instantly to hand.
I hope this helps. Best wishes from UK.
Hello!, can you make a video explaining how you unload the camera?
So..........I"m in LOVE with this camera. Are they still making them? Where can I buy one?
any videos of using these cameras w/ a CFV digital back? If so, please post one
Sorry for the stupid question, but I was told that you need to rotate the film manually after taking the shot, as Hassel doesn't do it automatically. I've just sent a film to a friend to get it developed. And I'm already upset...
Well thank you for the nice words!
Great video! If it were all so 'simple' we wouldn't be watching you.
Do u know where i could get one of those now? would love to have one.
Thanks for the vid. Makes me see what to think about when I'm gonna buy one of these. Needs to be perfect if I want to purchase one.
sander meindertsma Thanks for the nice comments. If I can help you with your purchase do let me know.
ally helpful, thank you.
i am having a lot of problems with my shutters. i have to press the lever below the crank in order to get my shutters to work - is that normal?
If I buy a hasselblad body and lens separately, how do I ensure that I can mount the lens safely without messing up with one being cocked and the other not? Thanks.
...thanks so much for this. it really helps!
however, i have a problem that i am hoping you could help out with. i decided to run a roll twice for double exposures; however, after winding it the film back out, the second time around, there is tape from the film roll that is partially on the film plane of the magazine (and the problem is) i am not able to take the mag out of the back compartment.
do you know how i can solve this?
thanks in advance!
its ok about how you sounded it doesnt really matter, but the funny thing was every time you said "your camera is defective!"
Hey Mike, I am a Fujfilm X Pro1 user and I am looking forward to buying a Hasselblad but I am confused. Please explain the differences between Hasselblad 500cm, 503cw, 503cx, 50el. I don't know if there are other such Hasselblad models available :D
How to shoot longer than 1 sec and bulk? And what is the button between "Syncro" and "Compur" used for?
question, is it safe to take out the magazine back while there is still film in it?
Looks very nice.
On the lens you have a Synchro and a Compur setting. How do I switch this button and what is the difference? Is the Synchro for when a sync cable is attached to the lesn?
Hassle. Funny. This camera makes you appreciate photography. It makes people "slow down" and consider their shot. This isn't a microwave society type of camera. It's for people who want to think and appreciate their photography one frame at a time instead of rapping off a 100 digital shots and digging out that one good one. Shooting film makes you a better photographer. You're held more accountable & many appreciate it and are going back to it.
I hunt for them all over the United States. I also have many former buyers that will write to me and sell their gear to me. I've been doing this for so long now that I have all kinds of contacts regarding Hasselblad.
Is a must to wer gloves when shooting with a haselblad?
B&H photo sells a lot of 120 film. Just google their website and then do a search there for "120 film."
Hi, is there a trick to remove spirit bubble level? It locked when I put it on, and it won't come off.
nice channel📸
@sollerboy Also, clean all over the insert and remove any debris from it with a brush of some sort. Back to your light leak. If you are seeing streaks on your film in any way you can know that 99% of the time the light traps need to be changed in your magazine. If you want to send your magazine to me I can replace them for you with factory traps for $40 but you have to pay shipping both ways. You can make homemade traps yourself it you want to try and do it. Email me for tips.
Is the magazine half of the body sealed from light when you take it off?
Are there many places to repair if needed? Also, worst case scenario, what would be the cost if something broke?
Thanks.
@alexisgc33 No, sorry, but I have a CFV digital back being sold on eBay right now. Just type in "Hasselblad CFV 16 megapixel" at eBay you should see it under the seller name Spiritandtruth. Go check it out.
You forgot to show how you rate the film on the camera for those of use who’ve never used one
You should have demonstrated the loading procedure with a roll of film. It's a little tricky and that are a couple mistakes you can make. Also, it is possible (and often easier) to reload without pulling off the magazine. (But, only if the dark slide is inserted with the flange toward the front). Otherwise, not a bad instructional vid.
John Burgeson Thanks for your comments. I definitely could have done a better job. This was a spur of the moment venture. After I watched it - I was not very happy with it and intended to do it over. I didn't think I sounded very friendly and that's not the kind of person I want portrayed because I do love people. But this one started immediately getting a fair amount of hits that I just left it up as it is.
Thanks for very helpful video) I have question to ask, does hasselblad use battery to work?
You probably already received an answer. No, the 500C does not use batteries of any sort, just your flash unit. Bulky, heavy, but truly outstanding machines.
Hello, where are you located? Are you in the United States? If your rear doors are staying open after you fire the camera then this usually means you need a main spring. The cost for this repair in the United States is usually somewhere around $125 to $200 depending on who does it. Unfortunately, many times you can buy a different 500c body for this amount. Is the focusing screen of your camera held in by two clips or by 4 screws? If there are two clips then your camera is really a 500cm.
You fail to say the film is loaded into the spool in the back backwards because many beginners shoot their first film the wrong way round and get no pictures.