I love that your class was able to see that even someone of your calibre even has failures and you didn't let it bother you. That in and of itself is a priceless lesson to learn.
You can also overheat the edge of the knife when machine sharpening (especially with a single-speed belt sander), which can cause wrinkles. And I know this because I have tested a few knives that I overheated well sharpening. It's why I got a Tormek.
I second that observation. Abrasives like flap disks can mess with the heat treat too I've noticed on slimmer knives/dagers if a lot of material is being removed. That's more for the stock removal guys than the forgers.
@@CagedSUPERMAN i find the heat issues with higher grits on my 2x42 is a little faster than yours at 3590rpm and its heats steel up depending on the thickness at higher grits. Some of it is i am a bit more careful at the bevel as I want it to look a certain way as i don't like the bevel going up 90% of the blade. however, its kinda moot as my Tormek is water cooled, it does not heat the blade up above room temperature (or whatever the water is) plus...it has the added advantage of I don't have to put on PPE to use it.
i wish you were here in CT im gonna go to matt parkinsons next year dragons breath forge counldnt do it this summer love your work and videos mr knight Mark
Perfect the audio is fixed I can actually hear it now sweet I love this video I’m going to join the ABS i want to be a mastersmith one day I’ve been making blades for offically 1 year this week
Any chance there will be a Forged series on this? I really want to learn more about heat treating, etc. But just a forge and maybe a toaster oven. Not using a heat treat oven, etc.
No. The supervising Master Smith will signal the applicant when the ninety (90) degree angle has been reached. Failure on the part of the applicant to stop his bend immediately when signaled to do so by the Master Smith administering the test exposes the tester to risk of test failure, as any blade damage occurring during a continued bend after that point will disqualify the blade. The blade is allowed to crack at the edge on bending but not beyond approximately one third (1/3rd) the width of the blade, leaving two thirds (2/3rds) of the blade intact. However, if any part of the blade chips or any part of the blade or tang breaks off, the applicant fails. The Master Smith shall determine if the extent or location of the fracture line is acceptable. The decision of the Master Smith is final. EDIT: that's from the November 2019 Rulebook
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
I love that your class was able to see that even someone of your calibre even has failures and you didn't let it bother you. That in and of itself is a priceless lesson to learn.
Thank you! Everyone fails at some point - but not everyone tries again!
@@JasonKnightMS
thats some yoda level zen stuff. great channel!!!'
Priceless information thank you Jason for sharing and taking the time to help us, awesome 🎉 fan for life
It was an amazing class. Thank you for all your help!!
Hey Josh. Thanks. I enjoyed having you in my shop for this class.
Yes! Thank you for the reupload
As always thank you brother!!!!
Absolutely amazing...the bend those blades tolerate...WOW.
my hands are sweaty just watching!
You can also overheat the edge of the knife when machine sharpening (especially with a single-speed belt sander), which can cause wrinkles. And I know this because I have tested a few knives that I overheated well sharpening. It's why I got a Tormek.
I second that observation. Abrasives like flap disks can mess with the heat treat too I've noticed on slimmer knives/dagers if a lot of material is being removed. That's more for the stock removal guys than the forgers.
I have a 3400rpm grinder currently, but learned how to sharpen on it without overheating the edge
@@CagedSUPERMAN i find the heat issues with higher grits on my 2x42 is a little faster than yours at 3590rpm and its heats steel up depending on the thickness at higher grits. Some of it is i am a bit more careful at the bevel as I want it to look a certain way as i don't like the bevel going up 90% of the blade. however, its kinda moot as my Tormek is water cooled, it does not heat the blade up above room temperature (or whatever the water is) plus...it has the added advantage of I don't have to put on PPE to use it.
Awesome
Really cool Sir thanks 👏👍
Fun!
Great information thanks for the tips!!!
Hey brother! Always!
Wow, I was getting nervous!
Hahaha so much fun to had, I can't wait to do my Journeyman test. Going to have to figure out how since I can't get into the USA now🤔🤔🤔
i wish you were here in CT im gonna go to matt parkinsons next year dragons breath forge counldnt do it this summer love your work and videos mr knight Mark
Great stuff as usual! What was your tempering protocol on those blades? And thoughts on differential heat treating to pass this test?
Perfect the audio is fixed I can actually hear it now sweet I love this video I’m going to join the ABS i want to be a mastersmith one day I’ve been making blades for offically 1 year this week
Glad we could get the audio fixed! Congrats on your year anniversary
@@JasonKnightMS thank you
Forged in fire but useful and without pointless shock value lol
Brigham you are now famous!!! How do you feel about that mate?
This is a very useful video!
Can I ask what steel was used in this test?
Knowing Jason.... Probably 80CRV2
80CrV2
Forgive me for asking this question mr. Jason, I know that you like 80CRV2 AND W2 but I was wondering what your thoughts were on 52100?
Great stuff!
don't apologize for asking
Sir, I was wondering if there is a place I could find a list of bladesmiths in my neck of the woods in Georgia?
www.americanbladesmith.org/#
Any chance there will be a Forged series on this? I really want to learn more about heat treating, etc. But just a forge and maybe a toaster oven. Not using a heat treat oven, etc.
@6:26 - Safety Sally forgot his 'safety' glasses. LOL - I saw a guy lose both eyes when the end of the rope snapped back like a cobra.
pic or it didnt happen
It’s not heat treated wrong it’s just we used the wrong blade thickness for the heat treat we did
To pass does the blade need to go back straight after you bent it 90 degrees?
No.
The supervising Master Smith will signal the applicant when the ninety (90) degree angle has
been reached. Failure on the part of the applicant to stop his bend immediately when
signaled to do so by the Master Smith administering the test exposes the tester to risk of test
failure, as any blade damage occurring during a continued bend after that point will
disqualify the blade. The blade is allowed to crack at the edge on bending but not beyond
approximately one third (1/3rd) the width of the blade, leaving two thirds (2/3rds) of the blade
intact. However, if any part of the blade chips or any part of the blade or tang breaks off,
the applicant fails. The Master Smith shall determine if the extent or location of the fracture
line is acceptable. The decision of the Master Smith is final.
EDIT: that's from the November 2019 Rulebook
@@CNYKnifeNerd awesome thanks mang
Only quench the edge and you'll have very good edge performance but you'll be able to bend it as much as you want without it breaking
Brother n law did well!