HOW TO: THE BEST (CHEAP) DAILY DRIVER COMBOS (JUNKYARD FORD, CHEVY & DODGE)
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
- HOW TO UPGRADE YOUR DAILY DRIVER! HOW WILD IS TOO WILD? WHEN IT COMES TO DAILY DRIVER COMBOS, THINGS LIKE IDLE QUALITY, DRIVEABILITY AND EVEN FUEL MILAGE, TO SAY NOTHING OF RELIABILITY, ALL COME INTO PLAY. A DAILY DRIVER BUILD IS A DIFFERENT ANIMAL THAN A DEDICATED PERFORMANCE MOTOR. THIS VIDEO INCLUDES BUILD UP OF A 5.0L (302) FORD, A 5.7L (350) VORTEC CHEVY AND A 5.9L (360) DODGE MAGNUM. CHECK OUT THE DYNO RESULTS OF THE COMBOS I USED TO BUILD SOMETHING SUBSTANTIALLY BETTER THAN STOCK, WHILE RETAINING ALL THE THINGS YOU LOVE ABOUT A STOCK MOTOR.
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The power band on the 360 is insane. All the power throughout the band, a lot of low end torque and an insanely durable engine. Chevy and Ford guys did hold their back as well, nice combinations
GREAT VIDEO RICHARD!!!!! I LOVE DAILY DRIVERS!!!! GREAT VIDEO AND THANKS FOR SHARING!!!!
SBC 350/XE268 for the win. This is a local go-to for budget 4x4s with big tires and 4.10-4.56 gears. You can literally blow one up in the mud on Friday, pick-N-pull a replacement on Saturday, cam swap and install on Sunday, ready for work on Monday. I know everyone gets tired of Gen1 SBC buildups.......but you can do them easily and stupid cheap if you stay away from new gucci parts.
I did not know that Gucci made engine parts! Can't wait to see the new Fall lineup! 😁
@@pookysdad4884 lmao
That Ford did really good considering the cubic inches it was giving up , I think any one of them would make a fun DD.......
GREAT VIDEO RICHARD!!! TOTALLY AWSOME VIDEO!!! TOTALLY AWESOME DAILY DRIVER BUILDS. THANKS FOR SHARING!!!! SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE!!!!
Richard, I know you've touched on it many times, but how about a video that specifically addresses back to back of two or three different cams... Stock, stage 1, stage 4 in an intercooled/boosted application making solid power... Something like 800 with a 5.3. Turn up the boost on the smaller cams to match the bigger one. Specifically address intake air temps, mass airflow, and cylinder pressure being cylinder pressure in all three. Speak to the difference in how they spool the turbo, power per psi and the trade offs in back pressure and torque converter.cheers!
I don't think the engine dyno is of much use for turbo spool or converter characteristics. That's more application specific, not even really chassis dyno territory. Weight, gear ratio, altitude, temperature etc... all affect converter and spool. I do see what you are after though and I like it!
I've always wanted to do a MPG build like take something that gets 20mpg from the factory . Port the heads or use some small chamber small runner aftermarket head , get a custom cam , up the compression use all roller lightweight valvetrain , just optimize the efficiency and see what happens try for 10mpg gain
one day I'll have the funds to do and document this
Good video with sensible street cam choices. That's what I'm looking for.
Good daily driver is 500+cid with excellent heads, mild cam and low boost. :-)
With the right gears it would work great especially for a towing rig.
And a company gas card 😝
Question, what are "excellent heads" going to do for a DD at the throttle opening and rpm experienced during daily driving. I'm trying to learn, not disputing your comment.
@@chasmilner3178 Think of an engine as an air pump. Also, think of a camshaft as the brain. Keeping this in mind lets talk 2 engine builds:
Small heads big cam? This engine "comes on the cam" at higher RPM, and low speed torque suffers with the aggressive cam timing.
Great heads small cam? The cam dictates where the engine efficiently makes power, smaller intake duration favors low RPM. The power potential and efficiency comes from great flowing heads, and will make great average power. Great heads can extend high RPM also because they can meet engine airflow demand at lower lift and shorter duration.
Richard has a video on this, I believe it is the Boss 302 vs. Chevy 302. Ford had high flow heads and a small cam, Chevy had standard okay heads and a race oriented cam. This is the basic idea anyways...
Regarding the Chevy and the flat tappet: I would go top of the page hydraulic roller over the 224/230 flat tappet for a daily if there was any way at all I could swing the money. You will get similar or better power with better street manners. It is a significant investment though, no doubt about that.
Love this one cause im putting together a daily driver motor for my Bronco right now
Hey Richard great Video, I have a idea for a "Other Guy" Engines. For the Mopar fans: the 273 or 318. Or AMC 304 or 290 or 390.
The perfect most realistic DD to me is no loss of tq below stock convertor stall rpm(or at least below a 'stalled up' stock convertor). Cammed fo this aim they always make more HP but make a ton more average everywhere and get reasonable economy if required.
Richard I would love to see you do a Ford Cologne V6 2.9l and 4.0l and some Japanese V6's especially the Suzuki Grand Vitara 2.5l V6
Thanks Richard! This is exactly what I was looking for. Have a 347 with a stage 2 tfs cam. It's a bit much for my daily. looks like the comp cam should do nicely.
THAT'S info I can use! Cheap, reliable, streetable, but still peppy enough to keep with new Corollas and Civics, lol (but not the Type R 😂).
The best daily driver combo is cubic inches plus a mild cam and the best flowing heads you can afford.
Question: DBSSTEELER and the 5 so far that liked his comment. Why "best flowing heads you can afford" for a DD? How does head flow impact driving experience at the throttle opening and rpm under daily driving? Just trying to learn what head flow does and how much to spend for it
@@chasmilner3178
It’s pretty simple actually. Head flow is what makes power. Heads that flow very well usually allow lots of air to move even at low lift points. A mild cam with good heads will make drivable power right off idle, have plenty of vacuum and idle smooth. Cubic inches added into the mix makes things even better.
I'm running 383 with a Summit dual plane intake. A 800AVS carb. A Lunati Voodoo cam with .489 lift Afr 195 Elimantor head 15/8s headers th350 trans 3000 holeshot converter. And 3.50 gears. In a 84 Grand Prix Go's like hell and totally streetable
I had a '74 Cj5 with 355 sbc, ran a comp high energy 268h (218 @0.50duration-0.454 lift 110lsa), flat tops, idle to 5500 intake, fenderwell headers. It was my daily drive, it had wheelie problems.....other than that it got better milage than stock!
That high energy cam worked really well in my 318 as well. Got really good mileage
The Chevy/Comp 246 cam is a GREAT choice for a daily, with a stock stall. It'll run a/c and power brakes all day, and really wakes up a center bolt 350, bone stock. The XR264 Mopar cam is terrible down low. You will need a higher than stock stall. It does make really good midrange power and torque though.
Dodge upgrade/cam looked great. .. 210-224 .500 lift and 110 or 108 for the L31- Can't help but want to see a huge 400ft lb footprint from the Vortec. Ford really woke up with the Edelbrocks. Profiler makes great flowing SBF heads for about $1k /pr... one of the better deals out there.
Haven't even watched it, already thumbs up and commented. Keep killing it sir.
204 effective duration seems to be a good limit to improve power and torque over a stock cam before you have to accept a loss in torque below 3000 rpm. At 212 the torque loss would be noticeable, going by the Dodge 360 test.
Random Observations and Bits of Trivia:
Advertised duration minus 52 degrees is pretty close to effective duration.
When GM tuned up the LS1 to become an LS6, they went from 196 to 204 degrees effective duration, plus better cylinder heads and intake manifold. The better intake manifold did later show up on production LS1's, but not the better cam and heads.
The LS1 Hot Cam sold by GM is 219 effective intake duration, but fairly low lift. There are better cams out there in the same duration range, but it does add 50hp.
Interesting Test to Think About:
Run a series of cams that have the same peak lift, but increasing durations to show how the inertia ram effect increases rpm where the torque and power peaks happen.
So I've been going back through your gen VI bbc videos. The comparison between the 454 and 460 suits my needs for my 'burb tow vehicle. I want to do the mild mods you did in that video. My question is the trans. Will I need a stand alone TCM for my 4L80E when I remove the FI? Thanks for all your info and real world data, it's by far the most useful channel on RUclips for motorheads like me.
Yes you will unless you do an aftermarket efi like the Holley sniper, which is self learning, looks kind of like a carb, and can control the 4l80
Is this a 90s TBI Chevy? If so, no. You can keep the factory computer but run a traditional carb/distributor. You will need to run a Holley carb; nobody else makes the required parts. You'll need the correct throttle bracketed to connect the TV cable. You will also need a Holley Throttle Position Sensor. The Holley TPS is the same as the Chevy TPS but with a special bracket to make it work on a Holley Carb, so that'll give the computer the required info to work correctly.
Do some research on converting a 350 powered truck from TBI to carb. The process is the same but you'll find more info.
It's a gen VI 454, MPI.
I think if your not towing heavy loads compression gives the biggest bang for the buck in chasing mpg. Small block 350? ho 305 heads give way more mpg than 76cc heads.
Bring on the 300I6
All these combos would work well, allow more cam with a close ratio six speed transmission. Maybe not so much for stop and go , but if you love rowing gears these combos would be much more effective than they look.
You forgot to flip the pistons on the dodge for that extra 50hp!
I didn't!! 😝
Uncle Tony probably smirked at that 😏.
Still waiting for the piston flip and magnum turbo.!
It's not "full race" without the piston flip!
Don't get smart alright!
You look like a typical RUclips goose without any technical qualification going for a gotcha moment.
So now I've got that off my chest, NightWhatever, the joke is on you and here's why:
That 'mod' is straight out of the Mopar Service bulletins for drag racers from the 1970s (It may even have made its way into an SA publication from the 1970s I skimmed through in a secondhand bookshop awhile ago).
IIRC, It applied to street engines wanting to turn street-strip but still use stock cast pistons - specifically the type that had .0005" clearance on the skirt with steel expansion/contraction limiting plates cast in.
The service bulletins in part were aimed specifically for those that had limited budget and wanted more power. Those bulletins recommended camshafts, heads, intakes, cheap oil pump mods and worked out combinations so a guy didn't have to trial and error stuff. There were other bulletins for hard core racers.
I respect Frieberger & Dulcich 'an all but calling out UT on this was a bridge too far me because UT was reiterating factory technical data for racers. In the 1970s the factory actually dyno tested this stuff because it knew hot rodders couldn't.
As an aside, in the days before affordable aluminum heads Dulcich did a lot of testing on big block Mopar smog heads and found the ports responded with far less grinding than 915s and 906 heads. Despite the consensus, big block Mopar smog heads are actually quite a lot better better than the pre smog heads because you didn't have to spend much time on them to get them to flow compared to the early ones from the 1967 onwards. I don't hear many shouting Dulcich down.
In my view it's a bit rich for Steve & David calling out UT on this I'm afraid. To me they seemed a bit under the weather that day so I wouldn't be reading too much into their character assassination of UT.
I too would like to see the effect of it but not on a Magnum but on a pre Magnum since the bulletins were from the 1970s.
Congratulations on your channel. It's excellent. Do you have an opinion on Rhoads lifters or other high-bleed rate lifters, and if such lifters were used in these tests, would they raise the low-rpm torque dip usefully, while maintaining the rest of the torque curve and overall engine reliability?
I still think a complete Aviator engine is a really good bang for the buck. Completely bone stock, you have a Wap aluminum block, 03+ tumble port head castings and the same camshafts as the terminator cobra, 10:1 compression, and a dual runner manifold that does okay down at low revs as well as carrying power out to 6500rpms no problem. Best of all, they are $250 all day long.
What are the bottom set of lines on the graph, data with everything stock?
Ha, ha, I thought we'd get to see the Nova ripping down the street with a puffer on a 3.0 4-cyl., Scotty Kilmer style! ;)
Scotty Kilmer doesn't like modified cars, he always tells us to leave 'em stock. How boring.
Right on
Daily driver big blocks next!
Daily driver dyno pulls really need to start at a lower RPM than 2,500 since off idle power matters and highway RPM is going to be below 3,000 . Related to this, the 292 Chevy inline 6 dyno pulls started past the 1,600 stock max torque. A loaded truck starting from a stop with an automatic needs this 1,600 pull.
no one runs wot at 1600 rpm
@@richardholdener1727 How about 1/4 and half throttle at 1600? With BSFC. I think you'd be the first car magazine guy to EVER try this.
Love the intro
I have a bone stock 95 GT 5.0 5 speed (convertible) daily and I'd love to do some budget mods that have enough gains to make it worth messing with it. I'm a Chevy guy I know how the different level power combos on carbed SBC but that's easy. I will say in comparison to modern performance or warmed over street machines it's not fast (my old 350hpish pickup would walk it no problem) even stock but it feels it runs fast enough to be amusing on the street I attribute it to being a smaller car and the 5 speed, for a 3" stroke engine it actually seems to shine the most in the mid range TQ but falls off in the upper roms so I rarely ring it out to 5500/6k its not worth the abuse on a 150k engine plus it doesn't feel happy up there seems to have faint but unsettling vibrations my old tierd 355 snc sings up there smooth as silk. Any suggestions to get noticable cheap power gains. I also don't dare to tear off the emissions with all this EPA crap going on where it was my deceased mom's car that's rust free from being garaged in winters when she was alive. In Maine if you just have cats your all set and secretly empty cats will get you by. The only thing I've done is install 10 series fauxmasters but with 4 cats it's still pretty tame. I do plan on gutting at least the 2 furthest back cats maybe all when I get a chance to use my buddy's lift,but being a daily I don't want it to obnoxious.
Vortec 350 add carb and intake
Explorer/mountaineer 5.0 add carb and intake
Magnum 360 5.9 add carb and intake
come on, they at least need mild cams
Agreed! Come on! 😂
@@richardholdener1727 especially the Magnum engines with the ridiculously small stock cam!! I like them all and play with the aforementioned engines, and have my roots as a foxbody guy and still have and enjoy build and running my fox. I like the GM's as well. Although for todays cheap budget engine that should get more love, pound for pound the 360 Magnum rocks!
@@erikturner5073 Not to mention the 318/340/360 sounds so damn good
@@madmod yeah but the 340 is not or considered in the realm of todays budget brawler build. Honestly the 340 is out of reach for most and with the 360, the 340 is kinda an afterthought unless your building a correct classic vehicle that came with a 340.
I wish he had used exhaust manifolds and a full exhaust. That seems like "daily driver" stuff to me. I realize that is is easier for the shop using their usual dyno headers. Also, were we to assume that these engines were to be used in a truck to tow the race car? Or in a car to drive to work?
stock manifolds will just make less power
@@richardholdener1727 Well, you are making it sound like the manifolds and full exhaust and legal mufflers would not change the results of the tests, just lessen them.
Stock manifolds and Exhaust and Mufflers may well make the benefits of the cam changes eliminated entirely, especially for the 2000-3000 rpm range. Suppose I'm in my 360 Magnum equipped 95 Dodge Ram 2500 and it is pulling my car trailer with a car on it up and down the Tejon Pass... Then I commute in it to work 5 days a week.... These dyno tests, by their very definition, don't have any relevance to daily driving. How much daily driving is at zero vacuum full throttle open conditions? We just pretend that full throttle at 3000 rpm dyno comparisons imply 1/4 to 1/2 throttle 10-16 manifold vacuum driveabilty because we have no easy, quick way to accurately test such things. I have an elderly Mopar buddy with an original, stock 73 Charger SE with a 400 Magnum (AFB swapped). He asks what bolt on parts can improve his driving experience.
I tell him the truth... There is NOTHING he can bolt on that can improve his experience. No head swap, no cam swap. I personally would recommend adding a crossover to his dual exhaust. But that's it. Maybe fuel injection, Maybe. But it would take forever for it to be worth the money. And that is for a car he just drives to cars and coffee. He could put in 4.10 gears for that.
"How about a 3/8 inch stoker crank, 9.5 to 1 CR, Aluminum heads, RPM Intake?" you may say. Ok that is a great package, but it relies on a complete engine reconfiguration so it is not a "bolt on".
I like your idea to test changes to make to a non race car. But you should be specific as to which car or truck and whether it is for cruise night puttering around, or commuting, or towing. And, for the latter two cases, your conclusion is going to be "Leave it stock." for most people.
Wise man says, "Two types of motor, race motor and the one that gets you there as cheap as possible."
On that note, brake specific fuel consumption would be interesting.
If you like that sort of thing😆
I like how you think.... on the subject of motors...
I got a 6L bus engine you think you could tweak one of those
Good vacuum and tq.. any leads on a 351 with GT40/P heads? Would fit in this category.
@@hondatech5000 no, even the gt40o heads chole the 351w. Yes it would be a great daily driver but its not going to make the others cry!
Other wise stock 351 sufferes with the gt40p heads. Lower intake cant flow enough. So you just get the effect of a smaller head
@@cameronf2758 exactly. Good tq'y low end cruiser though
So your Chevy motor to start with was a 727 block L05 short block with 12.3cc dish pistons and basically a Melling TBI flat tappet cam (something like 182/188 | .420/.428 | 115LSA) with Vortec heads?
Hey Richard have you ever tried the bootlegger flat tappet cams ? I'm buying the smallest one for a 350 and advancing it 4 degreesbwith the timing sprocket for a truck 72 c20 I was wondering how well you'd think it would do with 3.73 or should i keep it 4.10 forstreet / strip and daily droving and a 700r4 I saw your article on the hydraulic roller version
I put a similar motor in my 75 Camaro (Stock 6cyl). I got a 98 Vortec 5.7L from a truck that has the roller cam. Didn't change anything internally in the engine. I put a dual plane intake and a Edelbrock AVS2 650 and long tube headers. I would like to upgrade the cam at some point. Suggestions on Cam?
Anything bigger than the stock Vortec cam is going to need springs and that means stud boss machining on any Vortec head. As far as size cam once that’s done no need to run a cam with more lift than the heads can use. Voters run out of breath around .530 - .535 lift. I’d suggest a Comp hydraulic roller, either 08-422-8 or 08-423-8 and run 1.6 roller rockers to get extra lift close to the Vortec maximum. Those cams are 218/224 | .495/ .502 | 110LSA and 224/230 | .502/ .510 | 110LSA. With 1.6 rockers they go to .528/ .535 and .537/ .544 respectively.
Meant to say valve guides, but stud bosses would still need a trim to accommodate guide plates
Can you address mpg, since this is for a daily driver?
we don't test mpg
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The chevy motor should have been an L98 or a ZZ4 motor. Something with at least a roller camshaft.
they needed to be stock-oh wait....they were
Hey Richard any chance youd have performance parts laying around for a 5.9 magnum im currently building on a budget thanks
NO MAGNUM PARTS
@@richardholdener1727 it was worth a shot thank you sir
@@Kaska806hello sir,I have two sets of headers both new and old,and a K&N cold air intake kit if interested
What spring are you using for the 268 cam on the vortec heads
I'd went with a 351w!!! Why give up 1/2 " more stroke!! Nearly an inch more connecting rod! The only reason 302s are around is if the 351 won't fit!!
Can you take a hydraulic flat tappet cam and use Solid roller lifters or run a cam for the Chevy that is a 520 lift 114 degree lobe separation solid roller for the street because of having a fear of hydraulic lifters ?
No you cannot use roller lifters on a flat tappet cam they are tapered and shaped differently for a reason
I put a ht383e in my 96 pickup. I was left wanting more power. I also put a 4l80e to replace the 4l60e. Everything else is stock besides replacing the poppet valve injection with the ac Delco multi port. What can I upgrade to get more at not so Huge price?
Gameplay- what’s the budget? Put a plate under the carb 🍼
Nevermind……… I see the Multiport. Might want want to switch to some Holley setup
Richard, why did you cough, after you said Ford?
Richard what would a good daily driver cam be for a 347 Ford with efi and an automatic?
XE274HR
AMC 360 PLEASE
Will that cam work good for a 351w also?
yes
Which year explorer
Hi,I have a Mexican sbc 4 bolt main,two piece rear main seal. With vortec heads, will a 1785 camshaft fit this combination?
you need to check p-v
What readily available aluminum heads would you recommend on that sbc with dished pistons and a 268 cam?
lots of good choices
@@richardholdener1727 trick flow 23 195 62cc. Would compression be to high with a thinner head gasket.. would gains be similar to the Vortec head swap you did on that dished short block
More camshaft!
Does a gen 5 and gen 6 454s have the same pistons and just different heads?
different pistons too
First one o
"motor, motor, motor, chevy, chevy, motor, motor, motor"...
1
Personally I blame squirrels
nice combos. Be good to see edelbrock & or trickflow 190 heads on the dodge. Asking for a friend
One for the average guy, very good
I guess my idea of a daily driver is quite different. A beater truck engine would be along those lines, something I am throwing together to sell. However people messing around with all the chevy and Ford engines means my engines are cheap and easier to find, especially when people pull them out to go slower with a chevy transplant since my engines don't like to go over 6000 rpm with stock heads.
That first vortec cam would be nice for the trucks I have with those engines. The problem with those is the guides and springs limit you without work, I have the second one in a 400 with those heads and its a pooch compared to my Pontiacs. But thats ok.. its getting an LS.