Steve was too humble here and didn't want it to look like an ad, but he's selling the completes on his website. If you were like me a year ago, a $399 "skateboard" sounds crazy, but let me break it down so you better understand why he is actually not charging much for his time and inventory management. SoulBoardiy Adam 32 with griptape applied $220 Hollow Axle Carver CX Trucks $108 Riptide Bushings $14 Riptide pivot cups $14 G-Bomb bushings $27 Mounting hardware $5 65mm wheels from reputable company $40 Total = $428 (before shipping charges on a couple items) Now that's before actually countersinking the bolts, drilling out the pivot cups, and potentially damaging your components doing that. He's selling them for less than you could do it yourself. I know because I just bought a lot of this stuff from Status a few weeks ago. If you like the size of the board he has, I think you'd be crazy to build it out yourself versus getting it assembled.
@skimchaser8837 Well, since he figured out there's not enough margin and isn't going to sell them anymore, you tell me why he's doing all that. Either you are implying he's doing it to share the love, or perhaps you are a fifteen year old with a child labor sewn Che Guevara t-shirt that is suspicious of anyone that tries to conduct a business. No need to make others guess when you could just come out and say the reason you believe.
Excellent tutorial! I order my Riptide WFB 96a pivot cups, as soon as I order the trucks. Additional tips? When tightening the nut on kingpins that are too long to set to flush, tighten them until you can't turn the streetside washer by hand anymore, then an additional 3/4 - 1 full turn. If that's too loose for your weight? Get a higher durometer(harder) bushing and vice versa if it's too tight. Also, axle nut tightness! So many people get this wrong because they don't understand how bearings are designed. 1) Be sure to add the washers and a spacer for vertical support. 2) Tighten the nut all the way and then back it off until the wheel spins completely free! Tighten and loosen in tiny increments until the wheel will not wiggle back and forth horizontally along the axle. It should still wiggle a little as the bearing cages are now free but NOT from side to side and the wheels still spin easily. BOTH, too loose causing excessive horizontal movement OR too tight, will impede performance and prematurely wear out your bearings. If they are too tight and the wheel does not spin freely? It's because the groove which acts as a track for the ball bearings in the inner sleeve is being compressed up against the side of the ball, causing friction. As you continue riding, the bearing will wear out to size until it's no longer rubbing up against that groove. The bearing never actually becomes "broken in" as many people believe, now it's actually just broken becasue it was overtightened from the start. Those parts are machined to exact precision tolerances. There is no flash or excessive materiel that needs to be worn off for optimum performance. They roll at their best when brand new and that's just the engineering science of it. All the best and thanks for all the awesome surfskate videos! Yours are the best, by far and I think your 70mm 78a Surfskate Love wheels are easily the best wheels for surfskate riding! 😎🤙
Some people may not know that if you buy a Carver complete, you are getting inferior trucks. On a carver complete, you'll get unpainted trucks with heavier axles and kingpins. Buying the trucks separately in a painted version gives you a lighter more corrosion resistant truck with hollow axles and kingpin.
Steve I love your videos so much, it inspired me to get a surf skate. I was lucky to acquire a Carver 33 inch board with C7 trucks. I really felt like I was getting the flow down when it jackknifed on me. I'm not entirely sure why, I believe I was going too slow and my front foot crept too far forward. Now I am very concerned about wheel biting and jack knifing on this thing. I tightened it up a bit but now it still feels kinda sketchy but doesn't pump nicely anymore lol. If you have any info or a place to point me for different bushing set ups, or how to exactly dial in a C7 to avoid jack knifing, that would be amazing
When it comes to cutting grip tape for bolts in the first section it's useful to have an actual crafting (xacto or whatever) knife. The box cutter handle is awkward.
Thank to Gavin Conti for what he is bringing to this channel. I know the channel is called Surfskate Love, but it may be cool to one day make a video on an LDP setup like the Pantheon Supersonic. Surfskates and LDP share a lot in common - turny high-angle front trucks, shallower rear truck angles, unusually loose front bushings, and the ability to pump the board forward. One of your favorite trucks, the Carver CX, is almost closer to an LDP setup than a true surf trainer.
As someone who comes from a street skating pov, I like it when my board is all scratched up and banged up. It adds character lol. Squeaky trucks do drive me crazy though so I’ll be checking out those pivot cups
If you don't want bubble on the grip tape where u install the hardware. Just use a countersink drill bit, lightly run through the holes. For jam hardware it most likely due to installed nut with with different thread pitch. Skateboard hardware and normal machine screws hardware don't match. Some might get mix up for whatever reason.
i have a longboard with rkp trucks and a 21" wheelbase and i have a 18" stand width. I use the waterborne adapter but it feels very sluggish and i have a lot of trouble learning how to ride it since im just starting out. Any tips on this? should i be looking for a different deck or is the one i have fine? im also having trouble finding good foot positioning since it feels way to easy to put all thr weight on the heel side.
Great vid as ever. I have a slide Neme pro- it was the first surfskate i bought. I love the trucks but would like a deck with a longer wheelbase. Can you forsee any problems with putting my slide trucks on a longer board (37/38")? cheers!
Yep. My experience is that the Slide truck doesn't work well on wider wheelbases. I don't like their Neme Pro at all, for example. The longer your deck, the worse it pumps.
Steve was too humble here and didn't want it to look like an ad, but he's selling the completes on his website. If you were like me a year ago, a $399 "skateboard" sounds crazy, but let me break it down so you better understand why he is actually not charging much for his time and inventory management.
SoulBoardiy Adam 32 with griptape applied $220
Hollow Axle Carver CX Trucks $108
Riptide Bushings $14
Riptide pivot cups $14
G-Bomb bushings $27
Mounting hardware $5
65mm wheels from reputable company $40
Total = $428 (before shipping charges on a couple items)
Now that's before actually countersinking the bolts, drilling out the pivot cups, and potentially damaging your components doing that. He's selling them for less than you could do it yourself. I know because I just bought a lot of this stuff from Status a few weeks ago. If you like the size of the board he has, I think you'd be crazy to build it out yourself versus getting it assembled.
You ain't lying, my friend! And much appreciated!
@skimchaser8837 Well, since he figured out there's not enough margin and isn't going to sell them anymore, you tell me why he's doing all that. Either you are implying he's doing it to share the love, or perhaps you are a fifteen year old with a child labor sewn Che Guevara t-shirt that is suspicious of anyone that tries to conduct a business. No need to make others guess when you could just come out and say the reason you believe.
It's good to see you again,dude.
Nice video.
Some people are going to find this really useful! Good job! Have a good one.
Excellent tutorial! I order my Riptide WFB 96a pivot cups, as soon as I order the trucks. Additional tips? When tightening the nut on kingpins that are too long to set to flush, tighten them until you can't turn the streetside washer by hand anymore, then an additional 3/4 - 1 full turn. If that's too loose for your weight? Get a higher durometer(harder) bushing and vice versa if it's too tight. Also, axle nut tightness! So many people get this wrong because they don't understand how bearings are designed. 1) Be sure to add the washers and a spacer for vertical support. 2) Tighten the nut all the way and then back it off until the wheel spins completely free! Tighten and loosen in tiny increments until the wheel will not wiggle back and forth horizontally along the axle. It should still wiggle a little as the bearing cages are now free but NOT from side to side and the wheels still spin easily. BOTH, too loose causing excessive horizontal movement OR too tight, will impede performance and prematurely wear out your bearings. If they are too tight and the wheel does not spin freely? It's because the groove which acts as a track for the ball bearings in the inner sleeve is being compressed up against the side of the ball, causing friction. As you continue riding, the bearing will wear out to size until it's no longer rubbing up against that groove. The bearing never actually becomes "broken in" as many people believe, now it's actually just broken becasue it was overtightened from the start. Those parts are machined to exact precision tolerances. There is no flash or excessive materiel that needs to be worn off for optimum performance. They roll at their best when brand new and that's just the engineering science of it. All the best and thanks for all the awesome surfskate videos! Yours are the best, by far and I think your 70mm 78a Surfskate Love wheels are easily the best wheels for surfskate riding! 😎🤙
Some people may not know that if you buy a Carver complete, you are getting inferior trucks. On a carver complete, you'll get unpainted trucks with heavier axles and kingpins. Buying the trucks separately in a painted version gives you a lighter more corrosion resistant truck with hollow axles and kingpin.
Wow, I didn't know that!
Probably the batch different? As this new double hollow painted trucks just release not long ago.
@WIZY_SurfskateD. I think their completes will offer the painted ones in the future, but for now, the completes come with the inferior trucks.
@@funkingitup1805 even I have not find any complete that suit me. I wouldn't mind if there's a big clearance discount Lol.
I got my cx separately & they are unpainted with solid kingpins. This was about 3 years ago, so likely the new ones have the hollow KP.
Steve I love your videos so much, it inspired me to get a surf skate. I was lucky to acquire a Carver 33 inch board with C7 trucks. I really felt like I was getting the flow down when it jackknifed on me. I'm not entirely sure why, I believe I was going too slow and my front foot crept too far forward. Now I am very concerned about wheel biting and jack knifing on this thing. I tightened it up a bit but now it still feels kinda sketchy but doesn't pump nicely anymore lol. If you have any info or a place to point me for different bushing set ups, or how to exactly dial in a C7 to avoid jack knifing, that would be amazing
When it comes to cutting grip tape for bolts in the first section it's useful to have an actual crafting (xacto or whatever) knife. The box cutter handle is awkward.
Thank to Gavin Conti for what he is bringing to this channel. I know the channel is called Surfskate Love, but it may be cool to one day make a video on an LDP setup like the Pantheon Supersonic. Surfskates and LDP share a lot in common - turny high-angle front trucks, shallower rear truck angles, unusually loose front bushings, and the ability to pump the board forward. One of your favorite trucks, the Carver CX, is almost closer to an LDP setup than a true surf trainer.
As someone who comes from a street skating pov, I like it when my board is all scratched up and banged up. It adds character lol. Squeaky trucks do drive me crazy though so I’ll be checking out those pivot cups
If you don't want bubble on the grip tape where u install the hardware. Just use a countersink drill bit, lightly run through the holes. For jam hardware it most likely due to installed nut with with different thread pitch. Skateboard hardware and normal machine screws hardware don't match. Some might get mix up for whatever reason.
Do you know how heavy this complete is? And maybe even a soulboardy deck? :D If it is too much effort don't bother, but else I would love to know!
i have a longboard with rkp trucks and a 21" wheelbase and i have a 18" stand width. I use the waterborne adapter but it feels very sluggish and i have a lot of trouble learning how to ride it since im just starting out. Any tips on this? should i be looking for a different deck or is the one i have fine? im also having trouble finding good foot positioning since it feels way to easy to put all thr weight on the heel side.
Great vid as ever. I have a slide Neme pro- it was the first surfskate i bought. I love the trucks but would like a deck with a longer wheelbase. Can you forsee any problems with putting my slide trucks on a longer board (37/38")? cheers!
Yep. My experience is that the Slide truck doesn't work well on wider wheelbases. I don't like their Neme Pro at all, for example. The longer your deck, the worse it pumps.
Good one, never thought about getting the pivot cup out like this!
Sir, How about the speed rings ? . Thanks for this nice video :)
No need for speed rings with built-in bearings!
surfskate.love/shop/surfskate-wheel-bearings/gbomb-steel-wheel-bearings/
@@SurfskateLove Thank you so much Sir 🙏🕊
*Great video!*
🤙🏽🤟🏽🤙🏽