Thank you! Starting my first build and needed a refresher on finishing and materials to use. There are so many opinions on how to do things and your technique is exactly what I learned in shop class many years ago.
Matt this was a God send for me because I needed a way to do a finish in my apartment and I don't think my landlord or the fire department would like it if I used nitro. lol. Also it took a lot of searching around until I found Chris's channel.(I mentioned Chris's channel on other videos and all of the people I know that build guitars, I would like to see his channel grow) If you type anything in the you tube search about guitar finishes you run into about a 100 videos of this guy ( I think his name is Brad) just search how to do a in a finish and you will see a bunch of his videos. His videos were great but you need a garage to do his kind of finishes.
You make the most perfect instructional videos-every time you were explaining it and I started to formulate a question in my head about the process, within the next couple sentences you would address my question and answer it by chance.
Chris that is an excellent color blue I think your decision to leave it semi gloss hand rubbed looking was the right call. Great job lengthy process but worth it in my opinion.
I've used oil paint diluted with turps on picture frames, the first coat rubbed on effectively seals the grain, when the surface is wiped clean it remains in the ends of the grain 'tubes'. This first (and usually darker colour needs to dry for several days. The degree of how much is left can be controlled by how much is rubbed off. Subsequent different colours can be added - they don't interact with the grain so much - in the case of picture frames I used wax to finish bring out a nice sheen. I guess clear coat of some kind would work in a similar way. Ash wood gave very striking results due to the very high contrast of the already darker grain.. The colours can be very well defined and separated in this way. It takes experimentation.
Another fine job sir, although not one of the better flamed maple grain cards you were dealt to work with it turned out really nice and the mahogany tips for grain fill were as usual.... bar none spot on, working on one myself today and I'm pretty sure itll turn out just fine thanx again and keep stressing those fresh viva towels lol I personally don't think that can be emphasized enough when it comes to qc , well idk about the Viva part but 😜...a clean towels a happy towel 😊✌☝️
Hey Chris, so I wrote everything word by word on how to do this on my Swamp ash Telecaster. In one of the videos you mentioned to only use good sand paper and how important that is to this process. I have done 6 practice runs on scrap pieces of wood and I noticed something else that goes alone with not using cheap sand paper. I got this whole idea from you and I am not telling you how to do this type of finish I am just saying something that I noticed that made a big difference in my test runs. I found out that just like good sand paper there is a big difference in the quality of artist oil paint. I think they go by levels (they go my numbers and end in professional grade) but my best test run was with professional grade artist oil paints. I noticed a big difference I also done something a little different that you told me to do instead of putting a dark blue down and taking a cloth dampened with mineral sprits and wiping it off then coming back with a lighter blue. I took black and rubbed it into the grain and then wiped it off and did that 3 or 4 times until I saw that it was in the grain. I then came back with a dark blue and wiped it off several times until I got the finish that I liked. I want to thank for writing down the instructions for me like 3 times.lol I built a lent and dust free place to let the guitar dry with out getting any dust, lent, or anything else on the body and a way to dry the paint a little faster. I took 2 see through plastic tote boxes from Walmart and I put one on the floor and the other upside down and used weather striping to seal the totes. On the top tote I drilled a whole and put a dowel through the top tote so I could hang the guitar and then set it back on the tote on the floor. I sealed all the open areas around the hole that I cut I then sawed a square hole on each side of the tote on the bottom and glued filters over the square holes. I then took a small electric heater and had it blowing warm air through the filters. I did not leave it unattended to make sure that nothing caught on fire and it dried my test wood fast and with no dust or lent. That idea came to me on a long drive trying to think how I could make a drying booth and it worked great. The only thing that I need to do now is decide if I want the black in the grain up against the dark blue with some of the wood showing through or just cover it with the dark blue and have the black showing the beautiful grain that I got on this Swap ash tele body. Thanks a lot for everything and I have told a lot of people that build guitars about you channel.
@@HighlineGuitars I am starting next week I am on the road right now but I will take a video and if you are on fb I will send you the video of my drying booth I hope you have fb because I have no idea how to put a picture on you tube. What did you think about the different quality of oil paints? I also have started to use a very soft tooth brush to get the dark color in the grain it works better. I knew that I had to do a lot of tests on scrap wood to learn and make sure I did not mess up my body. So I have done a lot of sanding. I know you said that you don't think it makes a differences past 220. I have been going to 400 but it might just be in my mind. I have learned a lot and I owe all of it to you for coming up with this finish that someone can do in an apartment. I googled artist oil paint finish guitars and clicked on images. You might get a kick out of this It was all you and your videoI don't know where you got it but I can tell you that not many people are doing it and you should be proud of showing this cool way to finish guitars. I really thank you for answering all the questions and I would of had to fill the beautiful grain with that pink crap and use acrylic paint.
It looks great and not overly difficult, just time consuming. How important is the Pumice part of the process. It seems the wet sanding would work in the same way in filling the grain. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for the instructional videos, and I am following your process on a J bass. I am a little confused however, as I cannot see where the boiled linseed oil has come into the process.
Would this process be the same if I replaced the paint with a wood stain or leather dye instead? And would it be the same trick to touch up sand throughs?
I'm a woodworker that also knows automotive paints. The best finish would be an automotive clear coat sprayed with a hvlp touch up gun. The product is use is able to be polished in a mere 4 hours. I don't understand why guitar painters aren't using anything but automotive clear coats.
nice work! are you going to continue the series and finish the guitar? or was the purpose of this series to just demonstrate the hand-rubbed guitar finish? I would personally love to see the continuation of your progress on the guitar, as well as the finished product.
Great video, very informative! i am working on a swirl guitar, and am having issues with the oil paint not drying. would i be able to mix japan dryer with my oil paints and still be able to hydro dip? and if so, will that help to dry the paints faster once diped?
Ive done a few swirls and would say (as a guess) to not use japan dryer but simply use mineral spirits to get the paint to a thinner consistency. It's got to be almost perfect when you swirl.I experimented on many small objects before I figured it out.
Thank you so much for your part 2 video! I was pleasantly surprised how nice the 50/50 mix and sanding process felt after finishing. Even though its partly polyeurethane, it still felt like natural wood. My problem is sand through like you talk about in this video. It’s sort of all over and has greatly reduced the saturation and over all color of the wood stain. I tried to fix it like you demonstrated in this video, but it left a sticky mess on top of the built up 50/50 layers and didn’t really penetrate into the wood. Two questions: 1. Is japan dryer the “secret” here to get it to penetrate the wood/built up layers? 2. Do I do another 50/50 mix layer or two before sealing it with my clear coat?
@@kelleyreece9520 No, I don't. I normally make videos about what I'm currently working on and I haven't had a sand through issue in years. I may have to do it on purpose just to make a video.
Hi Chris! Love your very informative and well presented vids. One question regarding Minwax Wipe on Poly: Can it be used over Rustoleum Metallic enamel? Thanks!!!
In your other wipe on poly video you use sanding sealer…seems it would save some time in the early stages. Can you comment on which method you prefer or the differences in the finished product? Starting with Sanding sealer vs building the entire finish with poly.
I prefer using sanding sealer first, followed by the wipe on polyurethane. This allows you to apply a few coats of the sanding sealer which you can quickly level sand before applying the wipe on polyurethane. The result is fewer coats which cure faster and harder.
I don't know why he said anything about the Linseed you don't need it and he did not use it I think he was saying that he was using either the Japan drier or the mineral sprits in its place but that is a guess.
I noticed that you didn't sand back after applying the oil paint. I have a flame maple top explorer coming and was thinking of using my oil paints for the top as well. I love how yours turned out but was wondering if oil paint hides the flame maple more than other dyes? Yours turned out excellent.
If you thin the oil paint with mineral spirits or BLO, it soaks in like stain which can enhance the grain. Alway test on scrap to get the ratio what you want.
Great series. Thanks so much. Did I understand you to say, in episode 1 or 2, that this would work equally well over a water-based dye? I've got Stew-Mac's ColorTone water/alcohol dye. Thanks for taking time to answer our questions.
Yes, this techniques will work fine over water-based dye. You might want to seal in the dye with some rattle can polyurethane or shellac to keep the color from lifting.
Is there any way to seal in stain other than rattle can spray? I am finding the sprays lift the stain as well and I can't avoid drips. Thanks for this video; very inspiring.
What is this poly mix like on the neck, will it get sticky over time? I am about to finish one and that has a sealer on it and need to finish it. What do you recommend? B
Sir, in one video you said you hung it up for an hour or so before adding another coat. In this video you said 3 to 4 hours before adding more coats. Which would be better ? And then how long after the coats of wipe on poly do you wait before polishing/buffing ?
One question, I did oil finish on my guitar, i rubbed it on, so my question is, is there any way to do a paint job on it since the oil penetrates deep into the wood, so I'm not sure if paint will stick.. Is there any way??
This is just from research you can do some sanding and then take wood grain filler (I have seen a guy use this pink paste that turns white when it drys) then sand that and you can use acrylic paint or a die I don't think the oil paint would work. This is just from hours and hours and did I mention hours of research I did on guitar finishes. I see you asked 3 months ago did you try it yet?
You can't mix acrylic paint into an oil-based polyurethane. The two aren't compatible. The best way I know of to get a vintage blonde finish would be to spray the guitar with ReRanch Blonde and clear coat with their nitrocellulose lacquer.
Thanks!...I was pretty sure that the acrylic paint wouldn't work with the oil based poly...Larry Mutz used acrylic paint mixed in Minwax Polycrylic and got a very nice vintage blonde.
Turned out beautiful!! My next project I'm going to use up some oil paint I have sitting in my "tickle trunk". I hope mine turns out as nice as yours... Yes, yes... patience IS a virtue... (that I severely lack.... LOL) :) ⬇ ...Thank You... \m/, ,\m/
In terms of performance, there really isn't. However, by mixing your own, you can vary the ratio of poly to mineral spirits to suit your needs. You can also add some boiled linseed oil to slow the drying for a loner working time.
So I’ve used the pthalo blue and an ivory black to create a dark sunburst effect. I’ve finally got it about right and am letting it dry (with the help of Japan dry). Is it safe when dry to just start using wipe on poly?... or do I need some type of wood sealer?
How did you get a sun burst look using this method and what kind of wood did you use? If you reply I would like to see that I can give you my face book I would love to do a berry burst like on the the 2019 Gibson LP's
As you can see in the video, yes it did bleed into the Mahogany. I wasn't too concerned about it for this build, but on others, I have masked off the Mahogany before tinting the top. Masking with good quality tape works great and leaves a sharp line. Once the artist oil has dried, it stays dry and doesn't bleed when the oil-based top coat is applied.
Thanks! I noticed it towards the end of the video after I wrote the comment. I wasn't sure if it was a reflection or wood discoloration. I'm itching to start my first build and this method looks very promising.
The linseed oil is a component of the oil paint. Presumable the Japan solvent/accelerator acts like alkyd artist's medium to speed drying time. In that case the linseed oil really isn't a factor.
Oil-based polyurethane lends a warm amber hue to the wood. Water-based polyurethane by itself doesn't. To get that warm amber hue with water-based polyurethane would require tinting it with a few drops of Transtint Honey Amber.
Chris, great videos as usual, but the intro and outro music are far too loud relative to your voice. I am getting 'the look' from swmbo every time a vid starts or ends. (I don't think you need those, actually, but that opinion is probably due to the look I'm getting.)
Видеоклипы
![[BLACKSWAN] ‘Roll Up’ Official Music Video](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ulvCwyKrwqw/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you! Starting my first build and needed a refresher on finishing and materials to use. There are so many opinions on how to do things and your technique is exactly what I learned in shop class many years ago.
Thank you for the informative videos! You never mentioned what to do with the Boiled Linseed Oil.
The finish looks excellent. The mahogany on the back and sides look incredible. Very good series.
Beautiful color choice. Excellent process for the application.
Thank you for sharing.
I love that color blue
Thanks again for the detailed account of this. Such a valuable series and well worth the investment of time.
Matt this was a God send for me because I needed a way to do a finish in my apartment and I don't think my landlord or the fire department would like it if I used nitro. lol. Also it took a lot of searching around until I found Chris's channel.(I mentioned Chris's channel on other videos and all of the people I know that build guitars, I would like to see his channel grow) If you type anything in the you tube search about guitar finishes you run into about a 100 videos of this guy ( I think his name is Brad) just search how to do a in a finish and you will see a bunch of his videos. His videos were great but you need a garage to do his kind of finishes.
I love the finish. It looks so natural and expensive...Great job...
soo nice work... a lot of inspiration for my builds!!! thanks
You make the most perfect instructional videos-every time you were explaining it and I started to formulate a question in my head about the process, within the next couple sentences you would address my question and answer it by chance.
He is the Bob Ross of guitar builds.
Great video! I sometimes use an ionizer in the room to keep the dust ant lint out of the air. Czheers.
Fantastic! I am going to try this on my next build!
Chris that is an excellent color blue I think your decision to leave it semi gloss hand rubbed looking was the right call. Great job lengthy process but worth it in my opinion.
Right on Chris.Plus no mess from spraying !
I've used oil paint diluted with turps on picture frames, the first coat rubbed on effectively seals the grain, when the surface is wiped clean it remains in the ends of the grain 'tubes'. This first (and usually darker colour needs to dry for several days. The degree of how much is left can be controlled by how much is rubbed off.
Subsequent different colours can be added - they don't interact with the grain so much - in the case of picture frames I used wax to finish bring out a nice sheen. I guess clear coat of some kind would work in a similar way. Ash wood gave very striking results due to the very high contrast of the already darker grain.. The colours can be very well defined and separated in this way. It takes experimentation.
Where and when does the boiled linseed oil come into play?
Another fine job sir, although not one of the better flamed maple grain cards you were dealt to work with it turned out really nice and the mahogany tips for grain fill were as usual.... bar none spot on, working on one myself today and I'm pretty sure itll turn out just fine thanx again and keep stressing those fresh viva towels lol I personally don't think that can be emphasized enough when it comes to qc , well idk about the Viva part but 😜...a clean towels a happy towel 😊✌☝️
Gorgeous!
Thank you so much. I know how I’m doing next build!
I'm going to use this technique for finishing my humidor boxes.
This guy is the bob Ross of guitar paintings
great video again !! :)
Hey Chris, so I wrote everything word by word on how to do this on my Swamp ash Telecaster. In one of the videos you mentioned to only use good sand paper and how important that is to this process. I have done 6 practice runs on scrap pieces of wood and I noticed something else that goes alone with not using cheap sand paper. I got this whole idea from you and I am not telling you how to do this type of finish I am just saying something that I noticed that made a big difference in my test runs. I found out that just like good sand paper there is a big difference in the quality of artist oil paint. I think they go by levels (they go my numbers and end in professional grade) but my best test run was with professional grade artist oil paints. I noticed a big difference I also done something a little different that you told me to do instead of putting a dark blue down and taking a cloth dampened with mineral sprits and wiping it off then coming back with a lighter blue. I took black and rubbed it into the grain and then wiped it off and did that 3 or 4 times until I saw that it was in the grain. I then came back with a dark blue and wiped it off several times until I got the finish that I liked. I want to thank for writing down the instructions for me like 3 times.lol I built a lent and dust free place to let the guitar dry with out getting any dust, lent, or anything else on the body and a way to dry the paint a little faster. I took 2 see through plastic tote boxes from Walmart and I put one on the floor and the other upside down and used weather striping to seal the totes. On the top tote I drilled a whole and put a dowel through the top tote so I could hang the guitar and then set it back on the tote on the floor. I sealed all the open areas around the hole that I cut I then sawed a square hole on each side of the tote on the bottom and glued filters over the square holes. I then took a small electric heater and had it blowing warm air through the filters. I did not leave it unattended to make sure that nothing caught on fire and it dried my test wood fast and with no dust or lent. That idea came to me on a long drive trying to think how I could make a drying booth and it worked great. The only thing that I need to do now is decide if I want the black in the grain up against the dark blue with some of the wood showing through or just cover it with the dark blue and have the black showing the beautiful grain that I got on this Swap ash tele body. Thanks a lot for everything and I have told a lot of people that build guitars about you channel.
Lots of good info here. I'd love to see a photo of your drying booth.
@@HighlineGuitars I am starting next week I am on the road right now but I will take a video and if you are on fb I will send you the video of my drying booth I hope you have fb because I have no idea how to put a picture on you tube. What did you think about the different quality of oil paints? I also have started to use a very soft tooth brush to get the dark color in the grain it works better. I knew that I had to do a lot of tests on scrap wood to learn and make sure I did not mess up my body. So I have done a lot of sanding. I know you said that you don't think it makes a differences past 220. I have been going to 400 but it might just be in my mind. I have learned a lot and I owe all of it to you for coming up with this finish that someone can do in an apartment. I googled artist oil paint finish guitars and clicked on images. You might get a kick out of this It was all you and your videoI don't know where you got it but I can tell you that not many people are doing it and you should be proud of showing this cool way to finish guitars. I really thank you for answering all the questions and I would of had to fill the beautiful grain with that pink crap and use acrylic paint.
@@waynebrown1394 You can message me with photos and video on FB at facebook.com/highlineguitars/
Thank you so much man, you opened my mind lol
Thanks for this
It looks great and not overly difficult, just time consuming. How important is the Pumice part of the process. It seems the wet sanding would work in the same way in filling the grain. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for the instructional videos, and I am following your process on a J bass. I am a little confused however, as I cannot see where the boiled linseed oil has come into the process.
What happened with the boiled linseed oil? You showed it a few videos back and just never used it again.
What are your thinning ratios on the initial coats. It's beautiful.
Would this process be the same if I replaced the paint with a wood stain or leather dye instead? And would it be the same trick to touch up sand throughs?
i'll give it a try.
After sweating on this guitar after a show would I be able to clean it with my regular guitar polish?
I'm a woodworker that also knows automotive paints. The best finish would be an automotive clear coat sprayed with a hvlp touch up gun. The product is use is able to be polished in a mere 4 hours. I don't understand why guitar painters aren't using anything but automotive clear coats.
Many guitar painters do use automotive finishes. I don't for one main reason: isocyanate.
nice work! are you going to continue the series and finish the guitar? or was the purpose of this series to just demonstrate the hand-rubbed guitar finish? I would personally love to see the continuation of your progress on the guitar, as well as the finished product.
Great video, very informative! i am working on a swirl guitar, and am having issues with the oil paint not drying. would i be able to mix japan dryer with my oil paints and still be able to hydro dip? and if so, will that help to dry the paints faster once diped?
Ive done a few swirls and would say (as a guess) to not use japan dryer but simply use mineral spirits to get the paint to a thinner consistency. It's got to be almost perfect when you swirl.I experimented on many small objects before I figured it out.
Thank you so much for your part 2 video! I was pleasantly surprised how nice the 50/50 mix and sanding process felt after finishing. Even though its partly polyeurethane, it still felt like natural wood.
My problem is sand through like you talk about in this video. It’s sort of all over and has greatly reduced the saturation and over all color of the wood stain. I tried to fix it like you demonstrated in this video, but it left a sticky mess on top of the built up 50/50 layers and didn’t really penetrate into the wood. Two questions: 1. Is japan dryer the “secret” here to get it to penetrate the wood/built up layers? 2. Do I do another 50/50 mix layer or two before sealing it with my clear coat?
Japan dry may help with penetration, but it's really used to dramatically speed up drying time. You can do additional layers if you want to.
Highline Guitars okay good to know. Well, do you have any other advice or a video about fixing sand through issues?
@@kelleyreece9520 No, I don't. I normally make videos about what I'm currently working on and I haven't had a sand through issue in years. I may have to do it on purpose just to make a video.
Hi Chris!
Love your very informative and well presented vids. One question regarding Minwax Wipe on Poly:
Can it be used over Rustoleum Metallic enamel? Thanks!!!
Not sure. You'll have to test on some scrap first.
In your other wipe on poly video you use sanding sealer…seems it would save some time in the early stages. Can you comment on which method you prefer or the differences in the finished product? Starting with Sanding sealer vs building the entire finish with poly.
I prefer using sanding sealer first, followed by the wipe on polyurethane. This allows you to apply a few coats of the sanding sealer which you can quickly level sand before applying the wipe on polyurethane. The result is fewer coats which cure faster and harder.
Great video, thank you! Can I use a hard oil on top of the oil paint to finish the guitar?
If by hard oil you mean boiled linseed or polymerized tung oil, yes you can.
Would you please explain the introduction of boiled linseed oil in video one of this series as you never mentioned it again throughout the process?
I don't know why he said anything about the Linseed you don't need it and he did not use it I think he was saying that he was using either the Japan drier or the mineral sprits in its place but that is a guess.
I noticed that you didn't sand back after applying the oil paint. I have a flame maple top explorer coming and was thinking of using my oil paints for the top as well. I love how yours turned out but was wondering if oil paint hides the flame maple more than other dyes? Yours turned out excellent.
If you thin the oil paint with mineral spirits or BLO, it soaks in like stain which can enhance the grain. Alway test on scrap to get the ratio what you want.
Great series. Thanks so much. Did I understand you to say, in episode 1 or 2, that this would work equally well over a water-based dye? I've got Stew-Mac's ColorTone water/alcohol dye. Thanks for taking time to answer our questions.
Yes, this techniques will work fine over water-based dye. You might want to seal in the dye with some rattle can polyurethane or shellac to keep the color from lifting.
Is there any way to seal in stain other than rattle can spray? I am finding the sprays lift the stain as well and I can't avoid drips. Thanks for this video; very inspiring.
What is this poly mix like on the neck, will it get sticky over time? I am about to finish one and that has a sealer on it and need to finish it. What do you recommend?
B
Sir, in one video you said you hung it up for an hour or so before adding another coat. In this video you said 3 to 4 hours before adding more coats. Which would be better ? And then how long after the coats of wipe on poly do you wait before polishing/buffing ?
Excellent job! I am wondering, what is the best coat to put on guitar after such process to get a rather thick and extremely shiny gloss?
If you want a really thick, super hard glossy clear coat, try Solarez UV Cured Gloss Polyester resin. ruclips.net/video/xgSYSdou7Eo/видео.html
Highline Guitars Yes, but thats resign. What about other materials liki lacquer or smth like this?
One question, I did oil finish on my guitar, i rubbed it on, so my question is, is there any way to do a paint job on it since the oil penetrates deep into the wood, so I'm not sure if paint will stick.. Is there any way??
This is just from research you can do some sanding and then take wood grain filler (I have seen a guy use this pink paste that turns white when it drys) then sand that and you can use acrylic paint or a die I don't think the oil paint would work. This is just from hours and hours and did I mention hours of research I did on guitar finishes. I see you asked 3 months ago did you try it yet?
could you use this technique, and also paint(with acrylics) a picture onto the guitar? would it smudge the art, or had a reaction to the mixture?
The only way to know for sure is to test on scrap before committing to your guitar.
@@HighlineGuitars Okay, thanks for the reply.
Oil-base polyurethane. Is there a chance that the finish will yellowed with the aged and turn the blue into green?
No. The poly I use doesn't turn yellow.
Is it possible to use wipe on poly mixed with mineral spirit instead of polyurethane?
Yes
...or could you have created a tinted coat using the acrylic paint mixed in the oil-based polyurethane? I'm trying to do a vintage blonde finish.
You can't mix acrylic paint into an oil-based polyurethane. The two aren't compatible. The best way I know of to get a vintage blonde finish would be to spray the guitar with ReRanch Blonde and clear coat with their nitrocellulose lacquer.
Thanks!...I was pretty sure that the acrylic paint wouldn't work with the oil based poly...Larry Mutz used acrylic paint mixed in Minwax Polycrylic and got a very nice vintage blonde.
Is this mixture of polyurethane and mineral spirits pretty much the same this as what is in a polyurethane wipe on finish?
Yes, it is very similar.
Turned out beautiful!! My next project I'm going to use up some oil paint I have sitting in my "tickle trunk". I hope mine turns out as nice as yours... Yes, yes... patience IS a virtue... (that I severely lack.... LOL) :)
⬇ ...Thank You... \m/, ,\m/
What is a tickle trunk?
I wonder if there is any difference at all between your 50-50 mixture of poly/mineral spirits vs the commercial product called: Wipe-on Poly ?
In terms of performance, there really isn't. However, by mixing your own, you can vary the ratio of poly to mineral spirits to suit your needs. You can also add some boiled linseed oil to slow the drying for a loner working time.
@@HighlineGuitars - Thank you
I didn't get when the boiled linseed oil was used.
So I’ve used the pthalo blue and an ivory black to create a dark sunburst effect. I’ve finally got it about right and am letting it dry (with the help of Japan dry). Is it safe when dry to just start using wipe on poly?... or do I need some type of wood sealer?
Just Slingin yes, it’s safe to apply wipe poly once the oil paint is dry. You don’t need to seal it.
Highline Guitars thanks so much! Your videos have been a great learning experience!
How did you get a sun burst look using this method and what kind of wood did you use? If you reply I would like to see that I can give you my face book I would love to do a berry burst like on the the 2019 Gibson LP's
Did some of the blue bleed through to the mahogany? If so, did you figure out how to prevent that?
As you can see in the video, yes it did bleed into the Mahogany. I wasn't too concerned about it for this build, but on others, I have masked off the Mahogany before tinting the top. Masking with good quality tape works great and leaves a sharp line. Once the artist oil has dried, it stays dry and doesn't bleed when the oil-based top coat is applied.
Thanks! I noticed it towards the end of the video after I wrote the comment. I wasn't sure if it was a reflection or wood discoloration. I'm itching to start my first build and this method looks very promising.
where was the lindseed oil?
Lol. I was wondering that too. Apparently you don't need much, just a mere mention at the beginning.
The linseed oil is a component of the oil paint. Presumable the Japan solvent/accelerator acts like alkyd artist's medium to speed drying time. In that case the linseed oil really isn't a factor.
Chris, could you have used a water-based polyurethane thinned with water and gotten a similar result?
Oil-based polyurethane lends a warm amber hue to the wood. Water-based polyurethane by itself doesn't. To get that warm amber hue with water-based polyurethane would require tinting it with a few drops of Transtint Honey Amber.
Thanks, Chris!
Chris, great videos as usual, but the intro and outro music are far too loud relative to your voice. I am getting 'the look' from swmbo every time a vid starts or ends. (I don't think you need those, actually, but that opinion is probably due to the look I'm getting.)
100amplifiers yup...same here😂🎶🦐
Is the Polyurethane catalized?
No.
This is the same mix of 50% poli and 50% turpentine
To much work and time for me. I'll stick with nitro.
Make sure you have good health insurance.
how did you keep the blue dye from bleeding Into the back wood?
The glue used to laminate the top to the back acts as a barrier, which prevents the dye from bleeding. Also, precise application is important as well.