Status update on my Battery Powered Air Conditioner
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- Опубликовано: 17 сен 2024
- I took a trip down to South Florida to meet up with Stuart. Stuart is doing R&D and running the business selling my battery powered Air Conditioners. This is the unit that I run off solar in the tropics on my boat Temptress. A/C without a generator! He is well on the way to having new units available including a drop-in unit that requires no assembly or charging and a camper A/C unit that doesn't need water to cool itsself.
Check out marinedcac.com/ to see his progress, get yourself on the mailing list or to buy the Kit version which is currently available.
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Great work! Thanks to both of you. I'm looking forward to this product, both in my sailboat and in my truck camper. Boondocking/anchoring out would be much more pleasant. 👍 Be well.
Good refining the kit. Certainly better than the standard offerings.
Love watching two engineers nerding out on a tiny device! I'm patiently waiting for the final device!
Looks like you found the right person to run things. In other news, you may remember I put out the idea of using the innards of a cheap portable fridge to convert an Icebox. Well project complete. Found a sub $200 compressor driven 12/24/ac fridge and took the cover off and removed the foam. I cut a hole in the icebox to stuff the tubes through and then filled the hole with foam. I used the mounting plate on the "sled" (I think you call it) to mount the compressor to the bulkhead on the other side from the icebox. It works fine. I just have to make a beauty plate for the control panel because I am using the hole left by a speaker. I also need to insulate the top of the icebox because the people who built the boat in 1969 didn't feel that was required. I, on the other hand, want to give things the best chance of success I can. Thank you for the encouragement.
Good job
I love what you are doing! Looking forward to seeing the finished product and it would be nice not to have to run the generator while at anchor.
Why is everyone in boating not beating down your door? This product is going to help me make the case for my wife to be on the boat.😀
Mostly because we haven't taken one to a boat show yet
I know. I thought this was a silly project. It's a game changer
Good to have an update. Looking forward to the single unit one being available.
Making great progress. Both of your excitement is contagious
There is a huge need for an efficient DC air conditioning solution for over the road Big Rig trucks. I have been following Clark since his first videoon his air con system, hoping one day to be able to install it on my truck. This could be a HUGE market for you. Keep up the work... I'd pay the costs to be a test case.
Several guys have already done it. You need an air cooled version of the kit that is already available (Stuart might be able to put one together for you if you ask.
Then a BankManager and a few LiFePO4 batteries. That's really all you need.
I have this setup in my camper
Glad this is still going on. I bought two of your kits.. still on the never ending todo list :)
We all know how that goes
Have been waiting patiently for the all in one unit.
Sorry. My plate is full so I passed this project to others. I wish it would go faster as well.
I suggest you communicate with Stuart. I bet some interested buyers would get him working on it faster
@EmilyAndClark I am definitely interested. Currently have an Ecoflow Wave 2 that draws too much power. Living full-time in Bahamas and in near future Caribbean.
Say hi to Stuart. Let him know he has a buyer. It might get him out in his shop more
wish I had waited for the new one
It's not available yet so at least you had one for this summer
@@EmilyAndClark I might have to message you about the electric
Make a pre-charged version of the air cooled RV one so each side can sit on opposite sides of a little door or hatch that one side can slide through and leave only some small cut-outs in the door for refrigerant lines to pass through. Sell it with the hatch, a shelf kit for inside and outside and a weatherproof housing for the outside. All the customer needs to do is cut a hole for the hatch where you can hang the two shelves. Or have it set up for ducts like the boat one so its easy-install.
Ideally, the shelves can be mounted to the hole before the door goes in and locks the shelves in place if that makes any sense, but the door makes an easy pre-charged installation, especially since it is so small the door can be small. I live in Merritt Island, Florida and can help with small production runs of fiberglass housings and possibly other stuff like the shelf parts if needed.
You should talk to Stuart directly
MarineDCAC.com
Idea for using a heat storage component to improve defrost cycle has been reported in latest issue of PV Magazine, with the title "New defrosting tech may increase coefficient of performance of air-source heat pumps by up to 11.2%". It sounds simple enough in principle, and I'm surprised that current heat pumps don't employ such a 'heat flywheel". Maybe you guys can add that to your development plan. Open source plans may be an option for the DIY enthusiasts here.
Wouldn't that be for refrigeration not AC?
This system has no components that go below 0C
My boat runs a 120 volt 16700 btu combo heat/AC unit that easily fits inside a 20"x20"x16" box with room to spare (water cooled). This unit is made in Stuart, FL by an outfit called Tropical Marine Air Conditioning. I have a Cruise Air self contained unit. (boat is a 2011 model). They make a whole line of units from 6000 BTU up to over 30,000 BTU. It draws just over 12 amps.
Make sure to consider alternate dc voltages 48v and 24v are becoming the new marine standar
Agree with this. I'm planning a native 48volt boat and would like to have Air Conditioning and Refrigeration on 48volt.
This is actually a 24v system with a boost converter. It would run more efficiently at 24v
We can get a 48v compressor as well
Great info
Amazing certainly of interest to RVS
It seems like the air-cooled version is basically a pure DC mini-split (mini mini-split?). Very cool, literally and figuratively speaking.
I can see a big market for this if you can fit it in a standard form factor for an RV roof-top unit. You may have to increase the capacity to about 15,000 BTU but I don't see that as being an insurmountable issue. Keep the good stuff coming.
The rooftop unit sucks in my opinion. High center of gravity and essentially a window shaker. We might do that but the split version is so much better for campers. The compressor becomes virtually silent when mounted under the camper.
See my video on ac in my camper.
@@EmilyAndClark I don't disagree with anything you said, it's just that removing the factory A/C leaves a big hole in the roof and a "basement" mounted unit takes precious storage space. Sometimes you can sell something that is not the ideal solution but works for lots of folks.
Yes. I have to admit my camper still has the AC AC on the roof installed. I just haven't gotten around to removing it.
Hi Clark, I love the idea for mini split system. Can’t wait to see the finished product or Oder a test unit. I’m curious what is the expected average power consumption?
The split version is available now
Go through my channel there are videos about the prototype on my boat Temptress and a 3 part of me installing one on a friends boat.
No reason no to buy one today
It's the all in one box unit and the camper air cooled unit that are in development
I am interested for sure. There are many DC split system on Amazon and aliexpress right now but they are all too large. I just want a small DC unit to cool my V berth at night.
Power consumption per BTU is everything unless you want to run a generator.
@@EmilyAndClark I have a stinkpot Trawler. I dont want to make you sailor guys angry in the anchorage by running my generator all night.. so I need a small efficient AC for the V berth for my 920AH of lithium :)
This will do it. I run one on Temptress every summer night in the tropics. Off solar.
For us Canadian live-a-boards, any possibility of adding a reversing valve for heat pump use? I find my 120V marine heat pump works fantastically down to about freezing, below which I have to switch to the diesel heater. I'm assuming this would similarly work down to about freezing with an appropriate reversing valve and correctly programed thermostat
Yep that option is in the plans
I love seeing this progress. Would this new be able to use a closed loop with an heat exchanger on the hull? Thank you
Could but I'm not a fan of keel coolers. The water pump doesn't use much power and growth is more manageable.
But get the kit version today and use any condenser you like in place of the one in the kit
@@EmilyAndClark ill wait till you get it fine tuned
Air cooled would be good for trailer boats too as on a trailer able boat if you don't have a self priming water pump you lose prime when you take the boat out of the water and even sometimes when on plane.
Yes I've had several requests. I was surprised as I think water cooling is so much easier to install but the "camper" version can certainly go in a boat
Very Cool! Glad to see this is coming back to life! Really like the chart showing power consumption and BTU. Does the total wattage include the water pump?
Yes. I believe it does but you should check with Stuart to be certain
This is going to be a dumb question...sorry, I'm a mechanic, not an engineer.
I assume the boat version uses thru hulls for the cooling water intake and return. Here is the dumb question:
The top layer of the sea water has been heated by the sun all day, but 4 feet below the surface the temperature and heat load is much lower. Is there any thought about this or thinking about a coil that can be lowered over the side to take advantage of the lower temp water 4 or more feet below the surface?
Well, I DID say it was going to be dumb.
Sometimes that happens but most of the time the water column is about the same to a reasonable depth
But mostly it's a question about good enough. Before this unit you needed a generator no matter what you did.
This device can run off batteries and solar panels with surface water.
So it just doesn't matter
Very interesting technology, I'd love for my teardrop but it's pricey at $2500 to $3000 my camper only cost $6k to build...
Yes the compressor we use that has these crazy high efficiency costs like 1000 alone.
@@EmilyAndClark completely understand but it’s awesome you guys are trying to innovate!!
Did I miss it? I did not see info as to power consumption...
I have a video with power consumption but the best is Stuarts power report on the webpage. MarineDCAC.com
I need a new coaxial condenser for my 16,000 btu unit. Any ideas on where to source one?
You would likely need two of ours to handle that much heat. Beyond that I don't know
Great video on the update Clark. When do you estimate the air to air unit to be available. I want one for my 16’ camp lite trailer.
I think contacting Stuart with that question might encourage him to work faster
@@EmilyAndClark contact # ?
You should find that at MarineDCAC.com
Please give some thought to creating a universal components unit/ kit. Think of all the things needed on every live aboard boat that are universal, nothing changes no matter the boat and doesn't require recharge more than once a year. Perhaps a solar power supply, with a boat A/C, with a... marine radio, with some kind of efficient cooking element, with a GPS, with an AIS, with SOS, a bell, a whistle, a smoke detector, WIFI, phone chargers, USB ports, navigation system and screen, weather component, speedometer?, boat depth gauge?, wind meter? bilge pump? Alarms?. My thought is that there are things that EVERY boat has to buy and they all usually buy the same ones. Be able to buy the entire "Car Dash Board" with one product. Call it the Boat Dash Board or something. So instead of trying to find each and every component you need, it is all there. And make it easily serviceable. If the wind gauge display breaks, just unscrew the gauge, pull the plug and insert the new one.
Way too much work for this retired guy
@@EmilyAndClark I'll probably build a cabinet like that with a lot of it. I have bought most of the components. I just need to install. I have to repair a 20 inch hole in the bottom first. lol.
Would it be reasonable to build a variant with a through-hull condenser a'la vitrifrigo's hull-mounted condenser (e.g. keelcooler50). This might reduce the number of moving parts and possibly maintenance. I'm not sure if it is capable of sinking enough heat though.
That's generally called a keel cooler. It would save the water pump but would destroy sales as no one would want to install one and it would absolutely require opening the system
But buying the kit version and swapping the titanium condenser for a keep cooler might work for you.
My DC powered cruiseusa air conditioner uses a water cooled heat exchanger. I can’t imagine doing it any other way.
Why no reversing valve? Seems some market is being left on the table by not addressing seasonal needs.
It's certainly coming. We don't actually see it as much of an issue once the base unit works
It's being considered in all design decisions so it should fit later
@@EmilyAndClark Huzzah! But calling it a DCHP might be a bit confusing (wink)
Yes product naming is always an issue for me.
At least for the american market we call them all ac even if they can run reverse cycle.
There are so many DC options available for much cheaper from China. I had a DC air conditioner 5 years ago from china 600bucks delivered. Variable speed compressor and digital control as well. Seems a little late and expensive.
Compare the power consumption.
@@EmilyAndClark extremely efficient, what's the eer rating of your unit? I'm not sure what you're claiming to be your breakthrough as far as efficiency.
I'm not sure about seer. The COP of my compressor is 8.3 I think. What I've found from China claims 3 but I don't trust Chinese claims.
@@EmilyAndClark might benefit from using a higher efficiency refrigerant as well. A little harder to work with but if the units are a pre-charged it's a win
Yea. I'd always wanted to use hydrocarbon but the whole leaking on a boat and going boom thing kept me from experimenting with that.
Do you have one in mind? Especially if it's available without a license. We don't have one yet
Whay type of refrigerant will they use? Just thinking of availability if we ever need to add any.
R134a.
@EmilyAndClark so something everyone can get at a local automotive parts store, awesome
Is it just me, or is there a loud tinny buzzing sound in the audio?
That's the AC units actually running on the table.
You stated the supply and return air backwards. The return air is the warmer air.
Yep
unit from china , 800$
Compare the power consumption.
It is subcool, not supercool.
Yep
Interesting. Why do you reverse supply and return terms from normal HVAC? Supply is the conditioned air and return is room air "returning" to the AC unit. Also subcooling is the correct term for the liquid line side of the refrigerant system, not super cooling. Super heat is the temp of the suction line. Super as the temp is above the temp that the refrigerant changes state. Sub cooling is the temp of the liquid line below the temp that the refrigerant changes state. Sub is for lower. Super is for over. These are semantic issues, but why not use the standard HVAC language that techs and engineers use? I am a retired HVAC designer from both the residential and commercial world. Currently I have an 8,000 btu/hr Midea window AC unit on my 44' motorsailer. It cools the entire salon & captains stateroom after the sun sets. It is 120 volts AC so I run on my Victron inverter. It runs overnight on my 1350 amp hour flooded liquid battery bank. It is variable speed so it regulates temp as you are discussing. For now it is aircooled. It is rated at 16 seer. It maxes out at 850 watts and dilas back to about 150 watts once the space gets to the setpoint. Fan only is 10-30 watts. Very quiet and comfortable. I have two 12 volt fans installed to help circulate the cool air throughout the cabins. When I am alone on the boat I sleep in the salon with the cabin door closed. This cuts the consumption overnight by about half.
8,000 btu/hr is basically useless when the Florida sun is shining, but as soon as the sun sets the AC works great. Daytime heat is tolerable when you get a good nights comfy rest.
Also, I plan to add LifePo4 batteries. I am considering a bank manager as I have a couple of 100ahr LifePo4 batteries sitting in my garage. Once the 12 flooded lead acid 6 volt batteries die we will go 100% LifePo4. Prices continue to drop :)
Going full LI isn't really the best idea. Lead has some advantages. Having at least a starter battery in lead makes the system better in my opinion.
Yes, in addition to the 12 6 volt golf cart batteries I also have a 12 volt starter battery that's separate. I can combine it or not by a switch. Separate alternators as well.
You can actually use starter batteries in parallel with li the BankManager system with no switch or VSR. As long as you never fully discharge the linthe lead is protected from discharging. So it doesn't cycle