Merci ! Cela fait quasiment 6 mois que je cherche une méthode simple et efficace autre que celle qui consiste à imprimer des cales et qui nécessitent de démonter le lit chauffant. Et bien cela fonctionne à merveille...quelques tours de pince, et le tour est joué ! Je suis passé de 1.7mm d'écart à 0.3mm. Excellent :)
Thanks for this. This was the easiest method I have found for leveling the bed on the K1. I tried the Creality method without real success. I was not going to add leveling knobs to the bed, that just seemed a step backwords. Using this method I go the level down to a range of 0.285, which the bed leveling can more easily compensate for than the 0.608 that it was before.
Doing this feels a bit wrong but at the end it's a super fast and easy method to correct the offset in the three rods. I just got my K1Max from 2.6mm variance down to 0.5mm with just a few "clicks". Thanks for the video!
Excellent! I did a 1 tooth click and got mine from .7 max range to .2 max range. I tried to go another tooth, but was just as bad as before I started...but in other direction. Clever trick. Thanks.
That mesh still has a range of .4284. The Klipper guide on setting up meshing will tell you that if the range is greater than the thickness of the line you are printing then it is ineffective. However, for small pieces (like your watch bodies) an adaptive mesh will probably do the job because the centre of you bed looks pretty close but bigger pieces will become a problem. There is a lot of discussion of heat soaking the bed (leave it at required temp for say 10 minutes) and then do tramming & meshes.
Hey thanks for the help! Since filming this I've found warming the bed up before doing anything improves the mesh. I use the adaptive mesh for and I get ranges of below 0.1mm for most the parts I print.
K1s use meshing just fine. I print at 0.12 just fine with a similar variance. I could understand if bedmeshing wasnt working right that the variance would be a problem. I am the original creator of the belt skip method described in the subreddit that this video is using. I know the klipper guide SAYS that, but if that were 100% the case then no one could really print anything because a TON of beds have variances the bigger they get and especially if they arent machined for precision. A 0.2 is good a 0.4 on a bed like that is *okay*. People on the subreddit had variances of 0.8 or more and printed just fine, issue comes into play when you are fitting parts together otherwise it did fine.
@@grrminator9292thanks for bringing this method to the community. How would I go about this method on a K1C given that it doesn’t have the lead screw collets at the bottom of the enclosure?
The noise is from the tightened belt "skipping" one tooth over in relation to the pulley and its teeith that mesh with the belt. I haven't looked closely at the specific lead screws that are used, but they likely have an indexing flat, or notch on one side to keep the pulleys from slipping.
K1 problem is the original springs, they are havy rigid, i changed the k1 springs for Ender 3 original Springs (are was hard to find), and i printed new bed knobs to use with this, they are much smoother, now I have flat mesh, basically 0 gap
Another thing that can be done is replacing the plastic bed leveling posts with either silicon or rubber posts. That's another way I've found to get the bed to be more leveled than only using the skipping method. Mine is at 3.9 and aiming for 2-2.5 after getting better rubber posts that are meant for an Ender3 and I'd recommend getting some knobs with longer screws for manual adjustments of the bed. I bought a K1 Max, then found out it was one of the worst and still is one of the most unreliable printers on the market. Too many things to replace to make the printer better, but I like the space, the internal fan for circulation and the enclosure locks in heat.
@@ThePrintableWatchCo i figured it out. thanks for your reply. The trick worked great for me, so thanks for the video saved me a headache!! ur the man!
the reality is that k1 and k1 max have thin heat bed, the most problems come from not having it aligned between the rods, look at you're edges they look like you bent them up with those pliers, reason is plate is to thin after warming up it warps either way it wants........ i tried taking it out levelling on bench while heating but after few cycles of warming up it warps the same way again...
Have you seen WattsKraken, or ZeroDotCMD's glass sub bed frame mod? I think WK has a machined aluminum plate they offer, and ZDK's youtue channel shows his glass mod for the buildplate that i'm planning to try. @@ThePrintableWatchCo
From the console on the home screen, has anyone tried the Z_TILT_ADJUST command. This is the command for the print to do what you just did manually of creality set it up. Its native to klipper but has to be enabled in the configs. Its usually done after the G28(home axis) command. If not creality needs to enable it.
Asked a friend to pull up his web access. Looks like creality did not enable console functionality. It is accessible if you root it, but this voids your warranty.
@@Deathwarror01idk how rooting it could void the warranty, since creality offers root account access on their current firmware, even with no changes or modifications at all. Flashing stock klipper may change things a bit, but again, it should be pretty straightforward to reflash the stock firmware if needed. As far as the K1 series, I think they all have a single stepper motor driving all three leadscrews via a shared belt. Hence the necessity to have it skip teeth on the belt to get it flat.
@@ChristopherGoggans Yep you are right on that it has one z motor. Just pulled up an image of the board. I was thinking this was at triple Z setup. Still not sure why I got recommended this from the youtube algorithm. Seeing that this is one z motor port, this is probably the best way to adjust it. At least the least intrusive into the machine. For the rooting part, rooting would be used to install a custom firmware to allow access to the printers instruction console not the SSH console. Some manufacturers have the hardware set a fuse would be blown which sets a flag telling the manufacturer that the device has been rooted. I doubt creality would have an issue with this. This was more common back in the earlier days before some of the lawsuits. The manufacturers wouldnt cover devices like phones under warranty if it was rooted.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
this is the best method!!! i have done it but as no one as actually made a video of it many ppl are doubtful that such a simple method could work.
Glad it helped!
Merci ! Cela fait quasiment 6 mois que je cherche une méthode simple et efficace autre que celle qui consiste à imprimer des cales et qui nécessitent de démonter le lit chauffant. Et bien cela fonctionne à merveille...quelques tours de pince, et le tour est joué ! Je suis passé de 1.7mm d'écart à 0.3mm. Excellent :)
Thanks for this. This was the easiest method I have found for leveling the bed on the K1. I tried the Creality method without real success. I was not going to add leveling knobs to the bed, that just seemed a step backwords. Using this method I go the level down to a range of 0.285, which the bed leveling can more easily compensate for than the 0.608 that it was before.
That’s a great improvement! Happy printing!
Doing this feels a bit wrong but at the end it's a super fast and easy method to correct the offset in the three rods. I just got my K1Max from 2.6mm variance down to 0.5mm with just a few "clicks".
Thanks for the video!
Thanks, hope it's helped!
Excellent! I did a 1 tooth click and got mine from .7 max range to .2 max range. I tried to go another tooth, but was just as bad as before I started...but in other direction. Clever trick. Thanks.
Me fue exelente con este metodo, muchas gracias! espero mas personas encuentren este video. ajustar cama k1
Please do not use plyers!!. It is easier to just put a small L-torx wrench in the silver collar at the bottom and give it a nudge till it clicks.
I added knobs with springs and got in nearly perfect
Oh god, after 1.5 year finally they discovered how to partly lvl bed. Now you can trim 4 plastic mounts under bed to make even 4 corners of bed
That mesh still has a range of .4284. The Klipper guide on setting up meshing will tell you that if the range is greater than the thickness of the line you are printing then it is ineffective. However, for small pieces (like your watch bodies) an adaptive mesh will probably do the job because the centre of you bed looks pretty close but bigger pieces will become a problem. There is a lot of discussion of heat soaking the bed (leave it at required temp for say 10 minutes) and then do tramming & meshes.
Hey thanks for the help! Since filming this I've found warming the bed up before doing anything improves the mesh. I use the adaptive mesh for and I get ranges of below 0.1mm for most the parts I print.
K1s use meshing just fine.
I print at 0.12 just fine with a similar variance. I could understand if bedmeshing wasnt working right that the variance would be a problem. I am the original creator of the belt skip method described in the subreddit that this video is using.
I know the klipper guide SAYS that, but if that were 100% the case then no one could really print anything because a TON of beds have variances the bigger they get and especially if they arent machined for precision. A 0.2 is good a 0.4 on a bed like that is *okay*.
People on the subreddit had variances of 0.8 or more and printed just fine, issue comes into play when you are fitting parts together otherwise it did fine.
@@grrminator9292thanks for bringing this method to the community. How would I go about this method on a K1C given that it doesn’t have the lead screw collets at the bottom of the enclosure?
@@ryanmagee718 I would use a cloth or something to grip the screw.
How do you lower the rear though? The front left worked wonders but the rear needs lowering too!
My printer has an allan key hole in that thing so I don't even need a plier. Gonna try that now.
What causes the click noise? And why you didnt unscrew the collar and move it? Just curious thanks
The noise is from the tightened belt "skipping" one tooth over in relation to the pulley and its teeith that mesh with the belt. I haven't looked closely at the specific lead screws that are used, but they likely have an indexing flat, or notch on one side to keep the pulleys from slipping.
Muito obrigado. Fui de 1.200 para 0.180.
K1 problem is the original springs, they are havy rigid, i changed the k1 springs for Ender 3 original Springs (are was hard to find), and i printed new bed knobs to use with this, they are much smoother, now I have flat mesh, basically 0 gap
Hi how can i do this ok my k1 se there is no colar like on yours
Thanks for you video.
Is there any risk to damage the belt with this method ?
If you were doing this several times a week yes, but if it was only once, definitely not.
@djscolio thank you. I did it one time and then added some spacers on the bed fixing points. Perfect now.
I dont have that left menu on creality print or the top one ?? any ideas
Tienes que hacer Root a tu impresora,
Check your printer ip adress and type it in to your browser. Boom
I dont get a click when I try , the threaded shaft just turns !
Did you home all axis first?
Another thing that can be done is replacing the plastic bed leveling posts with either silicon or rubber posts. That's another way I've found to get the bed to be more leveled than only using the skipping method. Mine is at 3.9 and aiming for 2-2.5 after getting better rubber posts that are meant for an Ender3 and I'd recommend getting some knobs with longer screws for manual adjustments of the bed.
I bought a K1 Max, then found out it was one of the worst and still is one of the most unreliable printers on the market. Too many things to replace to make the printer better, but I like the space, the internal fan for circulation and the enclosure locks in heat.
my motors dont seem to lock after i home everything
Thats odd. Are you sure you’ve homed the z axis as well as x-y? Does the toolhead move?
@@ThePrintableWatchCo i figured it out. thanks for your reply.
The trick worked great for me, so thanks for the video saved me a headache!!
ur the man!
How much does each click move the bed?
Em torno de 0.350
the reality is that k1 and k1 max have thin heat bed, the most problems come from not having it aligned between the rods, look at you're edges they look like you bent them up with those pliers, reason is plate is to thin after warming up it warps either way it wants........ i tried taking it out levelling on bench while heating but after few cycles of warming up it warps the same way again...
I've been looking for a milled aluminium bed mod but can't really find anything. Have you had much luck with modding the print bed?
@@ThePrintableWatchCo voron 350
Have you seen WattsKraken, or ZeroDotCMD's glass sub bed frame mod? I think WK has a machined aluminum plate they offer, and ZDK's youtue channel shows his glass mod for the buildplate that i'm planning to try. @@ThePrintableWatchCo
From the console on the home screen, has anyone tried the Z_TILT_ADJUST command. This is the command for the print to do what you just did manually of creality set it up. Its native to klipper but has to be enabled in the configs. Its usually done after the G28(home axis) command. If not creality needs to enable it.
Asked a friend to pull up his web access. Looks like creality did not enable console functionality. It is accessible if you root it, but this voids your warranty.
@@Deathwarror01idk how rooting it could void the warranty, since creality offers root account access on their current firmware, even with no changes or modifications at all.
Flashing stock klipper may change things a bit, but again, it should be pretty straightforward to reflash the stock firmware if needed.
As far as the K1 series, I think they all have a single stepper motor driving all three leadscrews via a shared belt. Hence the necessity to have it skip teeth on the belt to get it flat.
@@ChristopherGoggans Yep you are right on that it has one z motor. Just pulled up an image of the board. I was thinking this was at triple Z setup. Still not sure why I got recommended this from the youtube algorithm. Seeing that this is one z motor port, this is probably the best way to adjust it. At least the least intrusive into the machine.
For the rooting part, rooting would be used to install a custom firmware to allow access to the printers instruction console not the SSH console. Some manufacturers have the hardware set a fuse would be blown which sets a flag telling the manufacturer that the device has been rooted. I doubt creality would have an issue with this. This was more common back in the earlier days before some of the lawsuits. The manufacturers wouldnt cover devices like phones under warranty if it was rooted.