Duramax serpentine belt replacement, tensioner replacement,idler pully replacement
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- Опубликовано: 11 апр 2019
- Replacing serpentine belt, tensioner and idler pully's on LMM Duramax @TruckMaster @Chevrolet @chevroletbrasil @ChevroletFC @chevroletmexico @chevroletarabia @ChevroletCanada @ChevroletArgentina @chevroletcolombia @GM-Genuine-Parts-and-ACDelco @ACDelcoArabia @acdelcophilippines @GM-Genuine-Parts-and-ACDelco @whistlindiesel
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Good job for a guy was sick thanks
Thanx brother..I muddled through lol
Thank ya sir! Helped me out a lot!
Glad 2 hear it was useful! Thanx 4 the support
Thanks for the video! I just did this on my 2500HD (LMM) a couple of days ago and figured I'd post a comment. One of my idler pulleys crapped out and froze up on me while driving down the highway, the serpentine belt kicked off, I lost power steering, power braking, and the alternator. Luckily the water pump is gear driven off the engine, something I didn't know until this happened, so no worries about overheating. I turned off all the electric stuff and was able to make it home and in the driveway with some strong armed manual steering and braking! It was a little hairy!
I started by removing the air tube that has the MAF sensor in it (only need to loosen two hose clamps), and took out the stock air filter housing assembly, which just lifts right out. I only had to loosen the top screw of the engine facing fan protector, which allowed enough access to get the top idler pulley bolt out and remove that pulley. To get enough room to get the lower idler pulley bolt out I just used a wood furring strip to pry back the fan protector blade that happens to be right in front of the bolt. Didn't have any problem getting the tensioner bolt and assembly out with the air filter assembly out of the way. I did use about a 16" or so length of chain link fence rail that I slipped over the end of the wrench to act as a cheater bar and get some extra leverage to break the bolts free. Instead of replacing the whole tensioner, I just replaced the pulley (Gates 63239). With all the money I saved by doing this myself I splurged on a serpentine belt tool set (GEARWRENCH 3680D). Made getting the new belt back on a piece of cake and well worth the money IMO!
Overall, not as bad of a job as I expected, and now that I've done it once I'll bet I could knock it out in under an hour if I had to do it again!
Min effort to get the air box and black cooler tube off. Access to tensioner from side is much easier. The inner shroud makes access from top very hard. I wore a long sleeved sweatshirt the 2nd time. Saved my arms. I was so close to taking inner shroud off permanently. It affects almost all repairs. Putting in new belt, i found using locking pliers clamped to 1 or 2 pulley bolts keeps belt from falling off while routing.
Thanks for the pliers idea
Very helpful! Thanks!
Awsome...very welcome
I agree. Stick with AC DELCO parts. Great video.
Thanx bro! Really appreciate it
I just got quoted $1200 from my local dealer, for this job. Belt 3 idler pulleys and tensioner. I’m guessing the tech just doesn’t want to do it. Well I ordered the same parts they were going to use. Total $200 ac delco.
Like you said "out with old in with new", the hard part was juggling the camera with a wrench in your hands so we may have a good view. Well done thanks for the Part Number's very help full.
Haha so true! Projects take twice as long because of it lol
Here is a tip from an old wrench still busting knuckles, when a serp belt is making a noise and you just want the noise to stop, with the engine off pour talcum powder over the grooves in the pulleys, then start the engine. The powder is made from stone and will sand off the glaze that is making the belt make noise stop, then the powder just blows away and the noise is gone. Been doing this on serp every since they came out and started making noise a year later. Good video.
I removed the airbox, the fan shroud, the fan and the inner fan shroud which I won't be putting back in. The inner fan shroud kind of sucked. I had to use a 18mm with 2 universal joints and about a 14" extension to take the bolts off the block. On the driver side I had to take out the inner fender and turbo tube to get at the last bolt. I would probably just break it off the two mounts if I were to do it again. Once that inner shroud is gone you have a ton of room to work. The lower pulley was stiff and was making a sound like a bad alternator (which I replaced thinking it was the source of the noise). It made this noise around 13-1500 rpm
I replaced the belt due to the marks on the tensioner were indicating the tensioner is at it’s most extended mark. The new belt indicates the same thing at the most extended mark. What do you recommend I check? Thank You
A picture of yours would be great. What did you need to re-locate your fuel filter? I have to remove my fender liner to get access to mine. Yours looks so convenient :)
Get a Air dog lift pump and fass filter delete. Great for your engine and easy fuel filter and water separator replace 🏁
My bottom pulley is frozen and it's a pain to get that inner fan cover off. Working on it now. Maybe you can show me something easy because it's hard getting to those 2 bolts
Great video. I have an LMM as well but I do have a question. Did you move your fuel filter to the driver side? Mine is on the passenger side.
Thanx bro. Ya relocated it up topside..super easy access
Watching this brought my night terrors back. This job sucked so damn bad. I have a dual alternator set up and 3 idler pulleys. 100$ belt alone.
Yikes..I dont evy u sir! Lol
Turners Speed Shop if you can picture a 6 foot man in the engine bay foot on the breaker for tensioner and then white knuckle pry the belt on the driver alternator. My knees were shaking lol. I did all the tricks to try and aid. Good video tho thanks for reply.
That would have made a hell of a video 🤣😂
Turners Speed Shop the language would have gotten it flagged. I made up insults that evening. 😂
Lol boy do I understand that! Been a few times I gotta turn off the camera while I invent swear words 🤣
The only other thing I would recommend is bumping the engine a few times prior to a full start. I've had the unfortunate experience of having a supercharged car that tore through belts back in the day.
Don't ever get rid of that truck
Instead of doing the entire tensioner, I only replaced the pulley on the tensioner. It was $20 compared to $60. 37 ft lbs for the pulley bolts and 18 on the pulley attached to the tensioner.
It’s not a corner cut. Bearings wear but the tension is still strong. Thanks for your advice but you obviously have no clue what you’re talking about.
I pulled a dash on a 15 explorer to do the ac core and it was easier than this belt job