That pos fast idle threw p0505 which is idle air control malfunction. So like many or some of you I went and bought a China iacv off of Amazon. Replaced it and it idled even worst. Put the original back on and it idled slightly better than with the new one. Idle still surged from 11-1400 rpm. No vacuum leaks and coolant is bled. So finally came across an article on how to diagnose if the fast idle valve is bad. You basically remove intake tube and inside the throttle body there is a hole up top for the iacv and bottom hole for the fast idle valve. When the car is cold out your finger over the lower hole, you should feel suction. When the car is warmed up there should no longer be any suction from that lower hole. If your car is still surging, put your finger over the lower hole again. If the idle stops surging and goes back to normal then the fast idle valve is stuck open, allowing air into the intake even when it’s warmed up causing the surge. Removed the valve and you guessed it, the oring was loose. I just tighten it. Didn’t clean it or anything. Put it back and the idle was perfect. No more CEL.
Kao, great result fixing your high idle issue. Does this "Fast Idle Valve" plague the V-6 Accord or just 4 cylinder ones ? Your nice write up / comment didn't specify. All the best - David
Man ur a boss i had my accord coupe in my friends house 4 six months we cleaned the IACV, changed the map sensor, purged the coolant. Damn i am so happy. So props to you my man. Love from Spain!
Just so people are aware if they come by. This only works on older Hondas/Acuras. Anything 2003 and up does not have a fast idle valve. As anything newer than 2003 is fly by wire and sensors, and controled by the computer. But decent video thank you!
Well, I had already scratched all the hair off of my head trying to figure out why I kept going 40 mph in my Acura tl without giving it any gas. Well my hair can grow back now thanks to you! Thank you a bunch!
Wow, you rock, You're a great mechanic. My 01 Honda Civic EX (bought new) has developed an oscillation at idle (rev up & down) when cold, usually tapping the brake stops it (idle completely normal when engine at operating temp). Either way, I've rebuilt 2 engines in the past, a 401 Riviera, and a 350 Skylark so know a little about engines, but this Honda is such a mystery to me and I'm at a loss to figure out this issue. I was very impressed with your tutorial and will definitely start with your approach. If you ever move to Santa Fe, I would definitely let you service my vehicles! Best!
I was a Ford person now I’m turned Honda I had a 1995 civic and sold it and regretted it and now bought a 1990 integra with the b18b1 in it with some issues and some freinkenstein stuff this video helped one issue.
I would suggest inspecting the O rings as well. One of mine was plasticized and two others were frayed. You can roll the dice on parts from a junkyard, but best of luck getting the large O ring that sits on top of the "air side" (the first end that he opens in the video). In the end, I replaced my frayed O rings with ones from a junkyard and had to order the large round one from a Honda dealership.
Pro tip, use something plastic and flat to turn the FIFV so you remove the chance of chipping it. Less stress trying to be super delicate with it when you turn as a metal screw driver can really mess it up with no effort.
Excellent tip! It solved the idling problem on my Civic 93! Did realized the reason the plastic cap losens out.... the O-ring of the plastic cap, next to the thread, with time hardens up (looses friction with aluminum body) and with engine vibration allows to unscrew eventually again. Replace with a NEW O-ring!
Hi men I cleaned my throttle body and map sensor on 2009 mdx after that check engine light comes on and the rpm bounce at the end when I press the brake pedal also the rpm jump up and down when I release the gas pedal. I relearned the tps by scanner and did the idle procedure but still the problem is not solved. Any advice please and thank you
Hi I have a question I have a 98 Honda Civic DX and I got it smogged and it passed after my smog it started idling high. It only idles high when in park as soon as you put it in drive it sounds better I don’t have an rpm gauge on my model car thanks in advance.
@@mprism7985 makes since my 98 ek coupe was insanely fun after the annoying idle surge was gone but have had 2 vehicles since than and now have a bad ass truck all.anojt the hustle.
My b20 swap eg is having an issue. When it’s cold and go to start it, you have to crank it and then it will catch fuel and start up. Starter sounds good. It’s also idling at 1k-1100. Is that normal? I fixed an air leak and it dropped to 800 but now it’s back to 1k
My 90 Accord has the surging problem but only from a cold start and only lasts 2 mins then back to approx 700-800 RPM, is this like your problem or was it always surging regardless of engine temp (meaning would happen not just at cold start)?
Thanks man, took it off cleaned it re tighten it and it’s running normal again! Now for some reason whenever I stop giving it gas it acts as if it’s going to stall but then goes back to normal.
Wait that little plunger thing that has a spring is not supposed to come out? Because I did this and both the plunger thing and white plastic with slits came out
Hi thanks for the video it will be a big help one thing I would suggest though is to not use Loctite on plastic I did one time and the Loctite destroyed the plastic I believe there is a special Loctite just for plastic thanks again
Thank you for the video, my car is having the exact same problem and your video is the first one I've seen that addresses those exact symptoms. Surging / fluctuating idle when cold, excessively high idle when hot. I was wondering, based on your experience, if you think something similar could be causing the same issue with my car. It's a 1987 Ford Crown Victoria, with the 5.0L engine. Thank you again, and keep up the good work.
Well air leaks will always do crazy things to idle , I think your car has a stepper idle motor , there a bit different , I’m not the most experienced with American cars, but make sure it’s not leaking then try to unplug the idle motor and see if it goes smoother. Wish I could help more but I haven’t worked in any like that ever.
Hey was wondering if these could just plain go bad? When I plug the hole in the throttle body, idle goes back to normal. Would like to add also that I replaced tps and that fixed the idle surge, but bow it idles at 1800 rpms in neutral. Took the fitv apart cleaned it put it back together seemed in pretty good shape, hadn't even backed out at all.
High idle is just too much air getting past the throttle body. So any leak will do it. Also I have seen completely bad idle controll valves and fast idle valves. You could make a block off plate for the fast idle valve.
Have 98 honda civic ex why is my rpm so low when idle whenever I STOP. It's like my car about to stall. It only happen when car is warm or hot. When cold engine or weather cold my rpm is normal at 1000 rpm doesn't go low when stop while idle. What causing this?
What about a 2011 Accord 4CYL? Dude I’m going crazy trying to figure out how to resolve my high idle. RPMs are acting crazy. Idle is around 1500. I sightly cleaned the throttle body, but nobody can verify if I have an IACV or EACV in the 8th Gen accord A/T. I looked around my TB but didn’t want to fully remove cuz I do not know how to do the Idle relearn procedure nor do I have an HDS to reset. Help 😅
Im not shure ab to tite that valve cus wen i turn on my 99 prelude automatic it starts with very low rpm .. some peope says at the time you adjust the valve doit completlly then turn back 1 and half way back so no to tite .. so that makes the car starts normal with notmal rpm ....
I got a 96 civic dx with a swapped motor (b16a2) my idle surges at 4k I’ve tighten it but it just keeps surging really high. I’ve clean iac, I also adjusted the screw on the top also but no change. I would try using the lock right but if I have to go back and take it I don’t want to break the plastic bc I can’t find the thermovalve anywhere. Please help
The only way a motor can surge is with air coming in, you probably have a big intake manifold leak. They spraying break cleaner on any possible leak areas. Common leaks are found on vacuum ports, or throttle body gasket and interior o rings, I’ve even seen the break booster leak. Just check everything
I got a question for everyone so my engine sounds like it runs good but then the intake sounds like normal and then tutu of air and then runs normal again and I’ve noticed the rmp was at 8 8.5 rmp up down slow what you think it can be ?
Ihave a 96 ITR & it has a rpm surge… the surge would be from 1000- 1500 rpm I changed the iacv & now it idles pretty high 2500 & it surges up n down higher now… idont have that fitv on my engine what can the issue be?
If you buy an old Honda, I just did just change your IAC valve, your fast idle valve and your EGR valve. A couple other parts should be changed as well too. 30 years old Just change them.
Hey buddy thanks for the video! Just a quick question though... My idle is only high on cold starts where it idles around 2800 then will bounce until it reaches operating temperature. So would you suggest still doing this before I go to the IACV? If you could write back that would be awesome! Thanks
Would that cause a miss got a 94 Integra just stated to miss 2 days ago only does it mid pedal if I floor it. It won't do it did a full tune up and completely new dist. No codes but check lite comes on while driven. Has the 1.8 nonVTEC
Well, mid petal miss might be a area in the tune, could just be as simple as a tps calibration. But if it just started doing it and it didn’t do it when you got it tuned originally, then I would say one of your sensors is giving the ECU different information, Could be a failed sensor
@@GearheadsAutofab it started doing it then I did the tuneup. The dist. I got 4 months ago new from car quest. I'm thinking tps has a dead spot. But then I saw where if it gets over rev it could have messed up the dizzy. I noticed the cars rev limiter it don't work I hit 8000 and it wanted to keep goin
I started to have idle surged issues after replacing my headgasket. It's like revving really high and not sure where to start? check for leak in the cooling system while its revving up to 3500 rpm? check vac leak??
Try just getting the air bubbles out of the system, get it up to temp , make sure both upper and lower hoses are hot then let cool all the way down , then top off . There’s other things but that’s the most common after a head gasket
My 99 prelide automatic in coold season starts with very low rpm starts wit no problem but low rpm i have to press the gas pedal for 40 seconds like 1500 rpm to 1900 rpm to keep my engine working other ways my car stalls very bad .. can you give me an idea wath can i do and check or replace? I clean that valve still do the same just in coold season like this in north carolina .. thanks..
Try starting the car , then unplugging the idle controll and see if it’s the same. The computer is programmed to control your idle up higher with a colder coolant temp. So it’s possible you have a bad temp sensor. But try the unplug thing and get back to me.
My 1992 honda accord idles around 650-700 rpm, but it almost dies when I put it in drive or reverse. Thoughts? I already cleaned iacv and adjust this fast iacv
Could be part of it, but you probably either have an exhaust leak or some other way that areas getting into the intake manifold cause that is a very high idle.
Hey man. I have a 98 Honda Civic. I notice it idles fine but when it gets hot it idles super high. Today it was around 100 degrees, and I was having a hard time even stopping the car because the idle was so high. Im curious if you think this is an area I should try first?
i know you have a lot on your plate man I just wanted to ask. I just swapped a jdm b20b high comp in a 99 integra. When i started it the idle is surging 2k-3k up and down and i swapped over my b18b1 crank pulley and belts and the alternator belt fits but im having an issue with the ac and ps belt.
So i have a 2001 crv b20z and sometimes after driving around I go to start it up and it struggles to start and then it starts chuggs and idles super low then bounces up and idles normal. Do you think it could be excess oil from the pcv falling into one of the intake holes? causing it to sputter. Ive cleaned the iacv and this but i might clwan this again and maybe lube it.
By chugging does is feel like missfires? Or just super low idle ? And does it smoke while this is happening. And to answer your question it’s probably not pcv, but you could pop it off and vent to atmosphere and see if it changes.
I have a 93 civic dx 1.5 and I’m having bounce between 1k-1.5krpms. It only does this when the car is at temp. And fans kick on. I’ve done the thermal valve. I’ve done the IACV I’ve checked leaks, tps, bled coolant for at least 3 fans cycles I’m running skunk2 intake with oem purge, throttle,
I have a 93 Del Sol right now same problem, and It got better when I verified cAm timing it was off 6 deg. Also maybe try getting the idle down to like 700......you got a hard one .....good luck!
Wait you said this valve is coolant controlled? I ask because while doing a job on my b18b1 i nicked a coolant hose that was attached to the intake somewhere so i ended up substituting that hose with one i think might be a bit bigger then what was on it. Would thay cause this valve to go haywire as well and cause high idle?
Yes there’s like a thermostat in there that closes off the air way as it gets hot. But changing the hose size will mot effect it. But if there’s any air in your system it tends to get trapped in those lines and can cause idle surge .
@@GearheadsAutofabthanks a lot for responding dude. That would make sense as the job I did was a head gasket so I had to take a lot of things apart. So you think air could of gotten into the system when I had all the lines and radiator take. Off? It's a weird idle issue that I've never seen before. On first start up it idles very high but as I drive it, it's fine until I switch into neutral to stop and then it goes back up into a high rpm and once I come to a complete stop the idle will drop to normal speed. Then sometimes (not every time) after driving for a while and I come to a complete stop my idle will drop drastically to like 500rpm and sometimes it will even stall out. And when I turn on my AC it keeps the idle up to a simi normal level. It's the weirdest idle problem I have ever seen.
What happens if you don’t have one of those and it’s a deleted. I’m having idle surge and I’ve cleaned IACV and checked hoses for holes or cracks and nothing. What else could it be ?
i have the same issue sort of , i have a 02 rsx base im working on , weird idle , cold it’ll crank up to 2k drops down to 1500 for a couple secs then drops to 1100 , once fully warmed up put into gear and drive off bumps up to 2k and it’ll stay that way. always had p0505 i cleaned iacv ended up getting worse , swapped a 04 throttle body on and cleaned it up (obviously) but im back to square one. i had some other issues like pcv , 02 sensor , p1077 runners , fixed that stuff now im stuck with idle any help ? ik rsx doesn’t have the fast idle valve
also wanna put out there i checked for vacuum leaks and i don’t seem to have any but also when i put my hand over my throttle body it won’t die , it’ll drop really low , could this be a small vacuum leak ? where could it be. the car is completely stock i bought it with this problem for cheap thinking it was a simple iac fix
I have an "88 accord with 54K miles. Idles terrible when in drive, idle goes down if I put it in neutral. Does this sound like the problem you addressed here? TX, Paul
Usually those two things are pretty unrelated. I suppose it depends on what kind of car it is. Maybe just make sure you don’t have a new air leak after moving things around to do the battery.
I purchased a new one cause i bought a civic with the end piece broken (fitv) and cause the idle drove me crazy going up and down. After insalling the new one and running the hose it still idles up and down, any ideas to is causing this headache? Thanks in advance
Ya there is a few things, I would check your tps calibration.......if the tps reads less than 0 percent the computer some times tries to hunt for idle. With key on engine off check voltage to the center wire on the tps it needs to read at least .44-.50 volts closed.
95 Del Sol running almost perfect, great response, slightly high idle after cleaning the Map Sensor and throttle plate... I noticed when I stop at a stop sign or go to park the idle slightly goes up and down a few times then settles. I also notice if I turn a light on our press on the breaks or raise or lower the windows it also settles immediately. Is this normal?
Well the brakes take vacuum from the manifold so it would bring the idle down just slightly and the windows take electric load from the alternator the can change things slightly. However it’s should compensate for that in the computer. Do you still have a small issue some where. Either a slight intake manifold leak or bad fast idle valve.
@@GearheadsAutofab Okay, I'll start with the Fast Idle Valve... Thanks!! P.s. yes a little... and it doesn't always do it either... some days it doesn't do it...
@@GearheadsAutofab I learned from another video to disconnect the battery for 30 minutes to reset the computer. That definitely slowed down the idle.... About 980 rpm right now with a very slight up and down surge only after driving for a while then stopping. And it only lasts for a few to 5 surges then stops by itself. And sometimes it doesn't do it at all. I am going to buy a gasket for the FITV, clean it and make sure it's tightened. I tightened it about 2 1/2 years ago and it helped a lot too. I have a feeling that's what's causing this.... So we'll see. Both easy fixes... I cleaned the AICV again yesterday. I may replace that if these things don't work. And check for bubbles in Radiator etc... Thanks for the help!
Hey man good day . I got this problem with my legend.. I turned it all the way down an I still have the problem. The car idles at 2k rpm.. an after a while it goes up an down. 2k - 1100.. On the plastic thing that you have to screw in. The o ring was hard an it broke. I replaced it with a small rubber one.. an I still get the same problem.. can you help?
Only thing that make a car idle high is getting too much air in to the manifold, so you need to do a smoke test or some type of leak test, you will either find a leak, or you will need to adjust the Idle screw on the face of the throttle body. Hope this helps
Any vacuum leak will do it, smoke test or “breAk clean test, to make sure there’s no leaks. Also if your tps is out of calibration it can cause it as well.
I just built a D15b non vtec, I’ve replaced all hoses, new throttle body doesn’t have FITV on it, new injectors and spark plug wires. My Honda Idles fine till it gets warm, after it’s warm it idle surges when I press the breaks and only when I press the breaks??? Booster and brake master cylinder are new as are ALL sensors and gaskets. I cannot find the problem any ideas would be great, no vacuum leaks so I’m kinda going crazy jaja thanks
make sure your new tps is calibrated correctly .45v or higher closed and 4.4ish open. If that’s good try replacing the I’ve way valve hose that goes to the break booster.
@@GearheadsAutofab I also had the tps set to 0.48V @ CT (Closed Throttle) 4.5V @ WOT (Wide Open Throttle) but it was still surging, only when applying the break at temp. Then I moved the tps to a little over .5 and the surge went away but eventually came back. So either way for sure its not the tps, Ive set it back now to the 0.48 and its still doing it TPS,MAP,IACV,IAT, are all new same with every sensor in the car.. The only thing I can think of at the time was, I changed the water pump and belt,injectors and the plugs and wires, then it went to surging, Ive bled the coolant so there are no bubbles in the radiator
Been there done this lol Just pulled my 1990 accord lx out of my buddy land parked for three years replaced fuel pump amd fuel sensor in tank started right up no smoke quiet running smooth not bad for a 30 year old car. my cat back exhaust system just arrived today so im stoaked gonna run like a raped ape now. Inspection next and plates ....
i have b20 crv gen.1 automatic trans, the problem is prior i cleaned the iacv and throttle body the idle is just fine and smooth at 750rpm. That right after i clean the iacv and throttle body and installed it, the rpm goea 2000 and goes down to 1700 if ac kick in. What possible causes of high idle of my crv? it givese me a lot of headache. Hope you can help me bro.
Yes, the only thing that will cause that is a big vacuum leak, you may need to check the throttle body gasket and any hoses that you disconnected. You can get a can of break clean and spray it Around any possible leak areas, of the trans for goes down you’ll know there is a leak in that area.
Hello im having high idle issues with my rsx. Basically put back the prb and stock ecu on the car and did the relearn procedure. Iacv is less than a year and i dont think i have vacuum leak. Whatelse do you think could cause it?
@bhadz100 - Surging is usually caused by TOO MUCH " Air " or Weak AICV or dirty Throttle Body or Dirty FITV or Vacuum Leaks. FITV adjustments should " Always " be LAST in my book. Here are the steps that you should take, when you have surging issues! First, you must see Throttle Body or Clean Throttle Body and check for Air Leakages. Second, you need to check your Vacuum / Air Leakages. Third, Clean or Replace your AICV.... Fourth, last but NOT least, " Adjust " your FITV... NOTE: I DO NOT recommend adjusting FITV... I would CLEAN it first, but NOT Adjusting it! Adjusting it would be the LAST thing on the List, since the function of FITV is just adding " extra " Air to your Throttle Body / Mixture! I also like to add another NOTE.... You might want to replace the FITV rather than " adjusting " it since it rely on the " Coolant " to " OPEN / CLOSED " during Hot / Cold. But remember, this is YOUR LAST Option, if ALL ABOVE failed!
Jordan Bronson thanks for the response. Turns out it was the TB cable too tight. Cam angle was 15 degrees on idle instead of 0. Loosen it a bit and fixed the issue.
I'm having the same issue with idle fluctuations 1500- 3000 rpm. I will be cleaning the throttle body and replace the AICV. I hope it takes care of the issue.
Can’t remember for sure but it’s usually attached to the throttle body, I know your manifold is different with the mpfi setup but if it’s there it will be under the black intake hat thing
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That pos fast idle threw p0505 which is idle air control malfunction. So like many or some of you I went and bought a China iacv off of Amazon. Replaced it and it idled even worst. Put the original back on and it idled slightly better than with the new one. Idle still surged from 11-1400 rpm. No vacuum leaks and coolant is bled. So finally came across an article on how to diagnose if the fast idle valve is bad. You basically remove intake tube and inside the throttle body there is a hole up top for the iacv and bottom hole for the fast idle valve. When the car is cold out your finger over the lower hole, you should feel suction. When the car is warmed up there should no longer be any suction from that lower hole. If your car is still surging, put your finger over the lower hole again. If the idle stops surging and goes back to normal then the fast idle valve is stuck open, allowing air into the intake even when it’s warmed up causing the surge. Removed the valve and you guessed it, the oring was loose. I just tighten it. Didn’t clean it or anything. Put it back and the idle was perfect. No more CEL.
Kao, great result fixing your high idle issue.
Does this "Fast Idle Valve" plague the V-6 Accord or just 4 cylinder ones ?
Your nice write up / comment didn't specify.
All the best - David
Man ur a boss i had my accord coupe in my friends house 4 six months we cleaned the IACV, changed the map sensor, purged the coolant. Damn i am so happy. So props to you my man. Love from Spain!
Just so people are aware if they come by. This only works on older Hondas/Acuras. Anything 2003 and up does not have a fast idle valve. As anything newer than 2003 is fly by wire and sensors, and controled by the computer. But decent video thank you!
Thank you brother. Solves an issue that bugged me, owe you a beer!
I owe him a 12 pack hahaha of leffe or some belgian brew
Well, I had already scratched all the hair off of my head trying to figure out why I kept going 40 mph in my Acura tl without giving it any gas. Well my hair can grow back now thanks to you! Thank you a bunch!
Your video saved me alot of money man, it worked 100% . The plastic piece was backed almost completely off.
Glad to help !
Wow, you rock, You're a great mechanic. My 01 Honda Civic EX (bought new) has developed an oscillation at idle (rev up & down) when cold, usually tapping the brake stops it (idle completely normal when engine at operating temp). Either way, I've rebuilt 2 engines in the past, a 401 Riviera, and a 350 Skylark so know a little about engines, but this Honda is such a mystery to me and I'm at a loss to figure out this issue. I was very impressed with your tutorial and will definitely start with your approach. If you ever move to Santa Fe, I would definitely let you service my vehicles! Best!
Thank you for this video, I just purchased a 93 civic ex for my son, this is his first car.
Glad it helped ......let me know if you have any other Honda questions 👌😁
Helped me solve my problem. Thanks man!!
Thanks man! My car was idling at 3500 and this fix it!
😮wow brother fix my headache appreciated thanks God bless you bro 😊
I was a Ford person now I’m turned Honda I had a 1995 civic and sold it and regretted it and now bought a 1990 integra with the b18b1 in it with some issues and some freinkenstein stuff this video helped one issue.
Finally I fixed my idle, thanks so much man!
I would suggest inspecting the O rings as well. One of mine was plasticized and two others were frayed. You can roll the dice on parts from a junkyard, but best of luck getting the large O ring that sits on top of the "air side" (the first end that he opens in the video). In the end, I replaced my frayed O rings with ones from a junkyard and had to order the large round one from a Honda dealership.
Pro tip, use something plastic and flat to turn the FIFV so you remove the chance of chipping it. Less stress trying to be super delicate with it when you turn as a metal screw driver can really mess it up with no effort.
Thanks for the quick lesson. Im gonna do it tomorrow on my CRV!
chill intro and outro music too!
Hope it helps 😁
What is the name of that valve ?
@@invain143 Are you talking about the Fast idle control valve or the idle air control valve? Those are the two I know about.
Truthguy73 what year is your CR-V and did this fix work?
awesome info. Thanks for making video!
Hey man thanks it fixed my idle on my b20 90 integra
Sweet !! Glad it helped
You doing very good job 👍👍👍👍👍
Mine was totally backed off and just bouncing around in there issue fixed now thanks man I subbed!
yeeee
Does the other side of that piece you took off have other gaskets that need to be replaced as well , the other side not the plunger side like O rings
Thanks this helped alot it took me 3 months to figure this out 👍👍👍
Excellent tip! It solved the idling problem on my Civic 93! Did realized the reason the plastic cap losens out.... the O-ring of the plastic cap, next to the thread, with time hardens up (looses friction with aluminum body) and with engine vibration allows to unscrew eventually again. Replace with a NEW O-ring!
Good tip! I usually put a touch of loc tite on it to stop it from backing out.
Once removed can this be cleaned out with brake cleaner before re assembly?
Hi men I cleaned my throttle body and map sensor on 2009 mdx after that check engine light comes on and the rpm bounce at the end when I press the brake pedal also the rpm jump up and down when I release the gas pedal. I relearned the tps by scanner and did the idle procedure but still the problem is not solved. Any advice please and thank you
So I have a 94 Del Sol si (d16y8 sohc) should I still tighten it down as much as shown? Or above that?
Hi I have a question I have a 98 Honda Civic DX and I got it smogged and it passed after my smog it started idling high. It only idles high when in park as soon as you put it in drive it sounds better I don’t have an rpm gauge on my model car thanks in advance.
I'm gonna try this, My 96 integra aggressively rev's from like 1-2,500k any time I start it till it warms up, Have been trying all kinds of stuff
Gonna feed the algorithm to get you more eyes. Thanks for your help.
Just got a honda on trade that was surging the rpms thank u so much bro
lol same here bro, got a lude in a trade and it bounces alot
@@mprism7985 makes since my 98 ek coupe was insanely fun after the annoying idle surge was gone but have had 2 vehicles since than and now have a bad ass truck all.anojt the hustle.
My b20 swap eg is having an issue. When it’s cold and go to start it, you have to crank it and then it will catch fuel and start up. Starter sounds good. It’s also idling at 1k-1100. Is that normal? I fixed an air leak and it dropped to 800 but now it’s back to 1k
Thank you so much😊
Nice work! Do you have a fix for a 2004 Accord 2.4L 4 cyl doing the same thing?
My 90 Accord has the surging problem but only from a cold start and only lasts 2 mins then back to approx 700-800 RPM, is this like your problem or was it always surging regardless of engine temp (meaning would happen not just at cold start)?
Thanks man, took it off cleaned it re tighten it and it’s running normal again! Now for some reason whenever I stop giving it gas it acts as if it’s going to stall but then goes back to normal.
did you fix it?
did u fix it?
i like his watch. which brand is it please?
I need some help with my k20 because it’s got a surging idle and it also bucks like a horse when you try to take off and just shuts down
I have a 2017 Honda Accord and my car idle up to 2 going up and down when parked. What you think is the issue ?
Is the red locktite suitable for plastics ?
Thanks man i just swamped a bseries into my civic and thought it was so weird it surge idle to 3and 4k rpm
Wait that little plunger thing that has a spring is not supposed to come out? Because I did this and both the plunger thing and white plastic with slits came out
Hi thanks for the video it will be a big help one thing I would suggest though is to not use Loctite on plastic I did one time and the Loctite destroyed the plastic I believe there is a special Loctite just for plastic thanks again
Good insight, just any thing that helps it not back out 😊👌
If I cleaned it and it still surges should I replace it?
My 96 honda accord fluctuates up and down and over heated while leaking. I've cleaned the IAC and it stopped for a while now started again. I'm lost
Awesome!!! 🤩💯👏👏👏
A million Love bro....
Dude thank you
If my EVAP on top of my intake manifold doesn't fix my 5k rpm, then I know this will. Thank you 💯
I will check this out first on my 1998 Honda Odyssey idles up and down when stopping at a red light and has stalled many times as well
Thank you for the video, my car is having the exact same problem and your video is the first one I've seen that addresses those exact symptoms. Surging / fluctuating idle when cold, excessively high idle when hot. I was wondering, based on your experience, if you think something similar could be causing the same issue with my car. It's a 1987 Ford Crown Victoria, with the 5.0L engine. Thank you again, and keep up the good work.
Well air leaks will always do crazy things to idle , I think your car has a stepper idle motor , there a bit different , I’m not the most experienced with American cars, but make sure it’s not leaking then try to unplug the idle motor and see if it goes smoother. Wish I could help more but I haven’t worked in any like that ever.
Hey was wondering if these could just plain go bad? When I plug the hole in the throttle body, idle goes back to normal. Would like to add also that I replaced tps and that fixed the idle surge, but bow it idles at 1800 rpms in neutral. Took the fitv apart cleaned it put it back together seemed in pretty good shape, hadn't even backed out at all.
High idle is just too much air getting past the throttle body. So any leak will do it. Also I have seen completely bad idle controll valves and fast idle valves. You could make a block off plate for the fast idle valve.
Where can I find that lock right stuff at? Great video, I made the mistake and bought a new IAC. But hey the new one is installed 👍🏽
Nice explanation; Obligatory Liked and Sub’d! 👍▶️
Have 98 honda civic ex why is my rpm so low when idle whenever I STOP. It's like my car about to stall. It only happen when car is warm or hot. When cold engine or weather cold my rpm is normal at 1000 rpm doesn't go low when stop while idle. What causing this?
What about a 2011 Accord 4CYL? Dude I’m going crazy trying to figure out how to resolve my high idle. RPMs are acting crazy. Idle is around 1500. I sightly cleaned the throttle body, but nobody can verify if I have an IACV or EACV in the 8th Gen accord A/T. I looked around my TB but didn’t want to fully remove cuz I do not know how to do the Idle relearn procedure nor do I have an HDS to reset. Help 😅
Only video that is for solving that issue
My civic fluctuating right now will try to see if it works.
Thanks
Im not shure ab to tite that valve cus wen i turn on my 99 prelude automatic it starts with very low rpm .. some peope says at the time you adjust the valve doit completlly then turn back 1 and half way back so no to tite .. so that makes the car starts normal with notmal rpm ....
I got a 96 civic dx with a swapped motor (b16a2) my idle surges at 4k I’ve tighten it but it just keeps surging really high. I’ve clean iac, I also adjusted the screw on the top also but no change. I would try using the lock right but if I have to go back and take it I don’t want to break the plastic bc I can’t find the thermovalve anywhere. Please help
The only way a motor can surge is with air coming in, you probably have a big intake manifold leak. They spraying break cleaner on any possible leak areas. Common leaks are found on vacuum ports, or throttle body gasket and interior o rings, I’ve even seen the break booster leak. Just check everything
I got a question for everyone so my engine sounds like it runs good but then the intake sounds like normal and then tutu of air and then runs normal again and I’ve noticed the rmp was at 8 8.5 rmp up down slow what you think it can be ?
Ihave a 96 ITR & it has a rpm surge… the surge would be from 1000- 1500 rpm I changed the iacv & now it idles pretty high 2500 & it surges up n down higher now… idont have that fitv on my engine what can the issue be?
If you buy an old Honda, I just did just change your IAC valve, your fast idle valve and your EGR valve. A couple other parts should be changed as well too. 30 years old Just change them.
Thanks dude mine was actually loose on the inside
Hey buddy thanks for the video! Just a quick question though... My idle is only high on cold starts where it idles around 2800 then will bounce until it reaches operating temperature. So would you suggest still doing this before I go to the IACV? If you could write back that would be awesome! Thanks
Yes try this first, it’s almost never a bad idle control. High idle is normal cold but 2800 is more than normal.
Does coolant come out when you remove this?
Would that cause a miss got a 94 Integra just stated to miss 2 days ago only does it mid pedal if I floor it. It won't do it did a full tune up and completely new dist. No codes but check lite comes on while driven. Has the 1.8 nonVTEC
Well, mid petal miss might be a area in the tune, could just be as simple as a tps calibration. But if it just started doing it and it didn’t do it when you got it tuned originally, then I would say one of your sensors is giving the ECU different information, Could be a failed sensor
@@GearheadsAutofab it started doing it then I did the tuneup. The dist. I got 4 months ago new from car quest. I'm thinking tps has a dead spot. But then I saw where if it gets over rev it could have messed up the dizzy. I noticed the cars rev limiter it don't work I hit 8000 and it wanted to keep goin
I started to have idle surged issues after replacing my headgasket. It's like revving really high and not sure where to start? check for leak in the cooling system while its revving up to 3500 rpm? check vac leak??
Try just getting the air bubbles out of the system, get it up to temp , make sure both upper and lower hoses are hot then let cool all the way down , then top off . There’s other things but that’s the most common after a head gasket
Thanks much
My 99 prelide automatic in coold season starts with very low rpm starts wit no problem but low rpm i have to press the gas pedal for 40 seconds like 1500 rpm to 1900 rpm to keep my engine working other ways my car stalls very bad .. can you give me an idea wath can i do and check or replace? I clean that valve still do the same just in coold season like this in north carolina .. thanks..
Try starting the car , then unplugging the idle controll and see if it’s the same. The computer is programmed to control your idle up higher with a colder coolant temp. So it’s possible you have a bad temp sensor. But try the unplug thing and get back to me.
My 1992 honda accord idles around 650-700 rpm, but it almost dies when I put it in drive or reverse. Thoughts? I already cleaned iacv and adjust this fast iacv
Any updates? Did you fix it? Have the same issue on my 91, I’m planning to replace iacv this weekend
your transmission is going out
93 del bro. 2700 rpm on start up til warm. this may be it?? if not any suggestions
thanks
Could be part of it, but you probably either have an exhaust leak or some other way that areas getting into the intake manifold cause that is a very high idle.
Hey man. I have a 98 Honda Civic. I notice it idles fine but when it gets hot it idles super high. Today it was around 100 degrees, and I was having a hard time even stopping the car because the idle was so high. Im curious if you think this is an area I should try first?
Yes, try this first because it moves the amount of air that bypasses the throttle body based on a thermostatic switch.
i know you have a lot on your plate man I just wanted to ask. I just swapped a jdm b20b high comp in a 99 integra. When i started it the idle is surging 2k-3k up and down and i swapped over my b18b1 crank pulley and belts and the alternator belt fits but im having an issue with the ac and ps belt.
You might have a vacuum leak, and belts should fit , the blocks the same height. I’d need to see it on this type of problem.
I'm loving the DC strut bar, old school.
Holy shit awesome dude. Fixed it in seconds. Thanks!
Nice ! Glad to help !
Useful vid for me, but don't use loctite/threadlock on plastic, it will eat it away.
So i have a 2001 crv b20z and sometimes after driving around I go to start it up and it struggles to start and then it starts chuggs and idles super low then bounces up and idles normal. Do you think it could be excess oil from the pcv falling into one of the intake holes? causing it to sputter. Ive cleaned the iacv and this but i might clwan this again and maybe lube it.
By chugging does is feel like missfires? Or just super low idle ? And does it smoke while this is happening. And to answer your question it’s probably not pcv, but you could pop it off and vent to atmosphere and see if it changes.
I have a 93 civic dx 1.5 and I’m having bounce between 1k-1.5krpms. It only does this when the car is at temp. And fans kick on. I’ve done the thermal valve. I’ve done the IACV I’ve checked leaks, tps, bled coolant for at least 3 fans cycles I’m running skunk2 intake with oem purge, throttle,
I have a 93 Del Sol right now same problem, and It got better when I verified cAm timing it was off 6 deg. Also maybe try getting the idle down to like 700......you got a hard one .....good luck!
Do u know if the f23 motor has one of these? I’ve looked and didn’t see anything like this on mine
On the f series ones there usually not located on the throttle body, and not all models have them.
Where is that part on a 2004 CR-V? Mine has fluctuating rpms and I just cleaned the idle control valve
Wait you said this valve is coolant controlled? I ask because while doing a job on my b18b1 i nicked a coolant hose that was attached to the intake somewhere so i ended up substituting that hose with one i think might be a bit bigger then what was on it.
Would thay cause this valve to go haywire as well and cause high idle?
Yes there’s like a thermostat in there that closes off the air way as it gets hot. But changing the hose size will mot effect it. But if there’s any air in your system it tends to get trapped in those lines and can cause idle surge .
@@GearheadsAutofabthanks a lot for responding dude. That would make sense as the job I did was a head gasket so I had to take a lot of things apart. So you think air could of gotten into the system when I had all the lines and radiator take. Off?
It's a weird idle issue that I've never seen before.
On first start up it idles very high but as I drive it, it's fine until I switch into neutral to stop and then it goes back up into a high rpm and once I come to a complete stop the idle will drop to normal speed.
Then sometimes (not every time) after driving for a while and I come to a complete stop my idle will drop drastically to like 500rpm and sometimes it will even stall out.
And when I turn on my AC it keeps the idle up to a simi normal level.
It's the weirdest idle problem I have ever seen.
What happens if you don’t have one of those and it’s a deleted. I’m having idle surge and I’ve cleaned IACV and checked hoses for holes or cracks and nothing. What else could it be ?
Check the tps calibration, center wire should read about 0.44 v closed and 4.5 v open.
i have the same issue sort of , i have a 02 rsx base im working on , weird idle , cold it’ll crank up to 2k drops down to 1500 for a couple secs then drops to 1100 , once fully warmed up put into gear and drive off bumps up to 2k and it’ll stay that way. always had p0505 i cleaned iacv ended up getting worse , swapped a 04 throttle body on and cleaned it up (obviously) but im back to square one. i had some other issues like pcv , 02 sensor , p1077 runners , fixed that stuff now im stuck with idle any help ? ik rsx doesn’t have the fast idle valve
also wanna put out there i checked for vacuum leaks and i don’t seem to have any but also when i put my hand over my throttle body it won’t die , it’ll drop really low , could this be a small vacuum leak ? where could it be. the car is completely stock i bought it with this problem for cheap thinking it was a simple iac fix
If it didn’t die , It’s getting air from some where so definitely a leak, you could smoke test it
I have an "88 accord with 54K miles. Idles terrible when in drive, idle goes down if I put it in neutral. Does this sound like the problem you addressed here? TX, Paul
No that sounds like a different problem, how is the idle ? Is is surging or low or like in even ?
my car started idling really high and then going back to normal after I replace the battery. What do you suggest I keep an eye out for?
Usually those two things are pretty unrelated. I suppose it depends on what kind of car it is. Maybe just make sure you don’t have a new air leak after moving things around to do the battery.
I purchased a new one cause i bought a civic with the end piece broken (fitv) and cause the idle drove me crazy going up and down. After insalling the new one and running the hose it still idles up and down, any ideas to is causing this headache? Thanks in advance
Ya there is a few things, I would check your tps calibration.......if the tps reads less than 0 percent the computer some times tries to hunt for idle. With key on engine off check voltage to the center wire on the tps it needs to read at least .44-.50 volts closed.
@@GearheadsAutofab havent done that yet, ill give it a try today thank you for the information!
95 Del Sol running almost perfect, great response, slightly high idle after cleaning the Map Sensor and throttle plate...
I noticed when I stop at a stop sign or go to park the idle slightly goes up and down a few times then settles. I also notice if I turn a light on our press on the breaks or raise or lower the windows it also settles immediately. Is this normal?
Well the brakes take vacuum from the manifold so it would bring the idle down just slightly and the windows take electric load from the alternator the can change things slightly. However it’s should compensate for that in the computer. Do you still have a small issue some where. Either a slight intake manifold leak or bad fast idle valve.
@@GearheadsAutofab Okay, I'll start with the Fast Idle Valve... Thanks!! P.s. yes a little... and it doesn't always do it either... some days it doesn't do it...
Well there fun little cars so I hope you get it fixed 👌😎
@@GearheadsAutofab I learned from another video to disconnect the battery for 30 minutes to reset the computer. That definitely slowed down the idle.... About 980 rpm right now with a very slight up and down surge only after driving for a while then stopping. And it only lasts for a few to 5 surges then stops by itself. And sometimes it doesn't do it at all. I am going to buy a gasket for the FITV, clean it and make sure it's tightened. I tightened it about 2 1/2 years ago and it helped a lot too. I have a feeling that's what's causing this.... So we'll see. Both easy fixes... I cleaned the AICV again yesterday. I may replace that if these things don't work. And check for bubbles in Radiator etc... Thanks for the help!
What is the equivalent part on an 06 rsx base model?
No evidence really , you just have a air leak
That Honda idle vid was good. You guys located in Los Angeles? Need help with this idling issue, can't get my Accord to act right... Help
We are in Texas. But look up import auto pros there a good shop. 😎👌
Hey man good day . I got this problem with my legend.. I turned it all the way down an I still have the problem.
The car idles at 2k rpm.. an after a while it goes up an down. 2k - 1100..
On the plastic thing that you have to screw in. The o ring was hard an it broke. I replaced it with a small rubber one.. an I still get the same problem.. can you help?
Only thing that make a car idle high is getting too much air in to the manifold, so you need to do a smoke test or some type of leak test, you will either find a leak, or you will need to adjust the Idle screw on the face of the throttle body.
Hope this helps
Is this the same fix for the code P1077?
Hey mate I have a b16a2 cleaned IACV and just now did this and nothing has helped, have anything else it could be?
Any vacuum leak will do it, smoke test or “breAk clean test, to make sure there’s no leaks. Also if your tps is out of calibration it can cause it as well.
I just built a D15b non vtec, I’ve replaced all hoses, new throttle body doesn’t have FITV on it, new injectors and spark plug wires. My Honda Idles fine till it gets warm, after it’s warm it idle surges when I press the breaks and only when I press the breaks??? Booster and brake master cylinder are new as are ALL sensors and gaskets. I cannot find the problem any ideas would be great, no vacuum leaks so I’m kinda going crazy jaja thanks
make sure your new tps is calibrated correctly .45v or higher closed and 4.4ish open. If that’s good try replacing the I’ve way valve hose that goes to the break booster.
@@GearheadsAutofab I also had the tps set to 0.48V @ CT (Closed Throttle)
4.5V @ WOT (Wide Open Throttle) but it was still surging, only when applying the break at temp. Then I moved the tps to a little over .5 and the surge went away but eventually came back. So either way for sure its not the tps, Ive set it back now to the 0.48 and its still doing it TPS,MAP,IACV,IAT, are all new same with every sensor in the car.. The only thing I can think of at the time was, I changed the water pump and belt,injectors and the plugs and wires, then it went to surging, Ive bled the coolant so there are no bubbles in the radiator
Been there done this lol
Just pulled my 1990 accord lx out of my buddy land parked for three years replaced fuel pump amd fuel sensor in tank started right up no smoke quiet running smooth not bad for a 30 year old car. my cat back exhaust system just arrived today so im stoaked gonna run like a raped ape now. Inspection next and plates ....
i have b20 crv gen.1 automatic trans, the problem is prior i cleaned the iacv and throttle body the idle is just fine and smooth at 750rpm. That right after i clean the iacv and throttle body and installed it, the rpm goea 2000 and goes down to 1700 if ac kick in. What possible causes of high idle of my crv? it givese me a lot of headache. Hope you can help me bro.
Yes, the only thing that will cause that is a big vacuum leak, you may need to check the throttle body gasket and any hoses that you disconnected. You can get a can of break clean and spray it Around any possible leak areas, of the trans for goes down you’ll know there is a leak in that area.
Tanks
I have the idle up and down and what about smoking
Can it cause a surge?
Hello im having high idle issues with my rsx. Basically put back the prb and stock ecu on the car and did the relearn procedure. Iacv is less than a year and i dont think i have vacuum leak. Whatelse do you think could cause it?
@bhadz100 - Surging is usually caused by TOO MUCH " Air " or Weak AICV or dirty Throttle Body or Dirty FITV or Vacuum Leaks. FITV adjustments should " Always " be LAST in my book. Here are the steps that you should take, when you have surging issues! First, you must see Throttle Body or Clean Throttle Body and check for Air Leakages. Second, you need to check your Vacuum / Air Leakages. Third, Clean or Replace your AICV.... Fourth, last but NOT least, " Adjust " your FITV... NOTE: I DO NOT recommend adjusting FITV... I would CLEAN it first, but NOT Adjusting it! Adjusting it would be the LAST thing on the List, since the function of FITV is just adding " extra " Air to your Throttle Body / Mixture! I also like to add another NOTE.... You might want to replace the FITV rather than " adjusting " it since it rely on the " Coolant " to " OPEN / CLOSED " during Hot / Cold. But remember, this is YOUR LAST Option, if ALL ABOVE failed!
Jordan Bronson thanks for the response. Turns out it was the TB cable too tight. Cam angle was 15 degrees on idle instead of 0. Loosen it a bit and fixed the issue.
@@bhadz100 - Ah... OK the Throttle Cable opening the Throttle Plate causing too much Air :D
I'm having the same issue with idle fluctuations 1500- 3000 rpm. I will be cleaning the throttle body and replace the AICV. I hope it takes care of the issue.
Does the fitv leak coolant from the entire system or just whats in the valve itself? I have the exact same car and motor
Please help. Thinking of doing New tps sensor and iacv
Mine idles high up to like 3k when cold
Does a 1988 honda crx dx have a fast idle valve?
Can’t remember for sure but it’s usually attached to the throttle body, I know your manifold is different with the mpfi setup but if it’s there it will be under the black intake hat thing