2x72 Grinder Belts - Which ones to Buy
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- Опубликовано: 21 ноя 2019
- It took some time to figure out which 2x72 grinder belts to purchase. These are my go to, mid - low priced range belts that can stand up with the expensive stuff.
'Scotch-Brite' - Belts. (back in stock) - amzn.to/33bxvUy
Rubber Belt Cleaner - amzn.to/2QWLpHX
2x72 Belts & other Knife Making Supplies - www.amazon.com/shop/housework...
► 2x72 Wheels ► bit.ly/3vwq3Vn
►► FACEBOOK GROUP FOR DIY BELT GRINDERS: / diybeltgrinders
Link to All Tools & Supplies I use: www.amazon.com/shop/housework
Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/shop/HouseWorkSt...
Support my Work on Patreon: / housework
Website: www.HouseWork.us 
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'Scotch-Brite' - Belts. (back in stock) - amzn.to/33bxvUy
Rubber Belt Cleaner - amzn.to/2QWLpHX
2x72 Belts & other Knife Making Supplies - www.amazon.com/shop/housework?listId=W8W9I4PY3YID
Link to All Tools & Supplies I use: www.amazon.com/shop/housework
Etsy Shop: www.etsy.com/shop/HouseWorkStudio
Support my Work on Patreon: patreon.com/housework
Website: www.HouseWork.us
Thanks for your channel, learned lots from you, keep up the great work!
Thanks for this Brian. Just the info I needed as I move up from a 1x30 to a 2x72... interesting that you feature the BG 272 grinder build in this video... I am building one myself right now... not quite ready for a revolution build yet.
Thanks for the video. I started out using belts from Combat Abrasives and they worked out pretty good. Just seemed to loose their grit quite readily or at the very least the ceramic bits wore down a little fast for my liking. Over the past 2 months though I have switched to the 3M Cubitron 984F II 36 grit ceramic belts. I profiled and beveled 3 camp choppers (1 from CPM-4V, 1 from 5160, and the last from 1084) and the belt still has grit left to spare. Now it won't 'hog' off material as if new but that is a lot of work just for one belt. I use just that belt now to knock off corners before going to a new belt. Now, they are pricey so you gotta figure if what you pay is worth what you get out of them. For me the choppers I make have 11" cutting edge, 1/4" spines and the bevel goes up about 3/4 of the way from edge to spine. So a lot of material is removed for each blade. So for me they are worth the price versus what I charge for my choppers. Have never tried the VSM belts and although they sound like they would do the job it would be hard for me to give them a try after using the Cubitron. But to each his own and what works for one man doesn't necessarily work for another.
Great video Brian! Thanks for sharing your knowledge & expertise. Cheers!
Thank you Todd for watching and commenting. 💪🏻😁
Bunch of information at once great video thank you for your time and effort!!!
Thank you!
Thanks for the info on Tru Grit. Great selection and prices.👍
This helps me a lot. I am always confused on alum,ceramic and trixact. The handle contamination is a great point. Thanks
Yeah it’s something people don’t think about. But the minute you actually do it you slap yourself in the head. Thanks for watching!
Thanks Brian. I learned a lot.
Thanks for watching, glad it was helpful! 💪🏻
Really enjoyed the video. It was quite informative. Got my sub 👍
Hell yeah! Thanks man! 👊🏻
Great information in detail! May God Bless you and your family Greatly
Thanks Fox, I really appreciate that. Happy Thanksgiving 👊🏻🔪
Who else wants to watch the Wolf project get completed?
Regardless, thanks for the videos!
Hahah. Me too. 👊🏻
enjoy your videos. thanks for sharing.
Thank you. 💪🏻
Dynabrade puts the grit markings on the front. Makes it so easy to read without taking off the belt.
Thanks
Very nice presention
Good job thanks
Thanks Don.
Made in wide strips then cut to final width. There are times the printing alignment will not allow all info on every narrower strip.
watched you videos before, subscribed a while ago, your machine i think is the best on the market, to say its bullet proof is a understatement, that machine will survive anything plus a lot more . Two hp is fine, speed variator is a bonus ,forward and reverse is the icing on the cake. I am based in the uk and sold abrasive belt machines for twenty years ,half inch wide dynafile, up to 90 inch wide throughfeed machines, half horsepower up to 80 horse power for powergrinders. Plus i saw a lot of home made and modified machines along the way, some to bad to mention, some brilliant, dedicated to one process or application. Most machines i see are good but possibly running too slow, they cut ok but are nowhere near the 32 meters per second recommend by the manufactures, but they work well and when using scothbrite or working plastics are adequate. you talked about 80% for steel what is that in meters per second, my reason for asking is that i have run belts up to 40 meters per second with good results, the 3m rep frowned and refrained from comment,the highter speed you can run the better the abrasive will preform. Colour of belts scotchbrite use a colour system to make it easy to use ,brown coarse, blue medium, red fine, and white very fine. Most manufacturers dont publish belt speeds, i think it is because so many people make a machine, from whatever they have at home or can purchase off the internet. belt speed doesnt come into the equation, if they have a two speed motor then that is a bonus for them. When fine polishing as you have forward and reverse, have you tried reversing a old belt using the back face of the belt like a barbers strap, a company in birmingham did this on a ten headed Loser centerless machine polishing golf shafts at a rate of 20 pieces per min. the old belt burnished the shaft and gave it a brightness that their quality people were looking for, a alternative was to use a cork belt, they run better wet but if you dont have a wet machine, put the belt in a bucket of warm water for a few mins spin it up and it will remain damp and flexible for a while. Sorry if it sounds like a mini rant, its not meant to be it is a pleasure to see a machine to the standard and flexibility of yours, if i ever get back to the states , i would love to have a play on your machine, it will do all i want it to do. With belt grades my choice is with 3m start with a300 80# a160 120# a30 800# then a old belt reversed and used to burnish, happy grinding Lawrence Ogden.
whats the purpose of changing the rotation direction of the belt?
Hey Brian,
Thank you for the VSM recommendation. I'm from Germany so I will give them a try as soon as my belt grinder is finished. Do you have recommendations on belt speed? What do you use for profiling with those 36 grit ceramic belts? As far as I read the high sfpm are only needed for low grit grinding and the speed is lowered with increasing grits to reduce heat.
I know this is a Really old video....but i see the Table on the Drill-press is on Backwards!
Rounded part of table goes towards the Column/Post.
Super helpful man, thanks! May I ask what type of flexible light you have there on your 2x72? I am looking for something just like it.
Yeah, I basically do the same to start, but i tried the Trizact structured ceramics, they are good, but the edges are too rough for the bevels i like to do, so I buy the Trizact gator belts... One thing you might wanna keep in mind, you are doing full flat grinds, so turning the blade doesn't make a difference, but if you were ever to want precise bevel & ricasso lines, that probably wouldn't work... You might wanna try cork belts too, they also leave a nice finish. I started buying the aluminium oxide 1000-2000(even if I use a trizact A6{2500} I come back to the 2000 grit, hit it on the buffer with some flintz and it's almost a mirror, no handsanding... I think the reason some belts don't have grit size on them, is because how they are cut, i notice that too & it drives me crazy... Hope all is well, take it easy...
Dave! As always you’re a wealth of info. I’ll look into cork belts, I just built a soft platen and it’s helping a lot. I had some issues getting the flat grinds even. Kitchen knives are really tough. But it’s what I want to make. So here we are. Lol. Thanks again Dave. I’m trying to decide what profile to cut out for our A-2 Collab. 👊🏻
Hey Brian, keep up the nice products man, then everyone can be a knifemaker...
Haha! It seems that way some times. Good news is the grinders can be used for more than just knives. I think every workshop should have one. ⚡️⚡️⚡️
Brian do you use the rubber cleaner on the Scotch Brights? And thank you for walking through the belts you use and how and when you use them. Helped me a lot.
Excellent video on all the types of belts, where to purchase, and what order to use them on the 2 x 72 grinder. Beautiful job designing the House/works 2 x 72 grinder. Love your channel.
Thanks Ron. I really appreciate that man. 🙌🏻
I notice that the tape on the belt seam tends to dry-rot over time. Are some belts less prone to this than others?
Have you tried the 1" scalloped AO belts on your wooden handles? They keep you from messing up in tight curves.
Not a knife guy, but I appreciate your presentation
Thanks Len. I appreciate that. Hope you’re doing great. Happy Thanksgiving. 👊🏻
Thanks a million. A guy can piss away a lot of money trying to get decent belts.
Yeah a guy can. I know I did! 😂
Good video man. Quick question, i'm trying to get into knife sharpening and quite a few videos mention that all you need is a #120, #400 and a leather strob. How many knives can i sharpen with such a rotation before i need to replace my belts?
Depends what state they are in but. I bet you could get 40 knifes with a 120 if your gentle and don’t force it.
There are a number of different standards for abrasives, and they are not exactly compatible. Further, it is not just the average grit that needs to meet standards, the distribution curve that describes the range of grit sizes and their proportions is important. A good abrasive will leave all the lines the same whereas others will put very deep grooves in an otherwise consistently finer surface and others will be all over the place - i would assume we have all been there.
Two possible reasons for the lack of grit size markings may be that either the manufacturers wish to ensure that you understand what you are getting by making you look up the specification for the product, or the products don't pass the standards and the manufacturers wish to avoid legal action.
Al203 is a ceramic. What kind of ceramic is the media?
For what its worth, if you ever had a tube of silicone caulk on the shelf and it got old and hard. Break it out of the tube, it makes an excellent belt cleaner.
Oh man that's an excellent tip!!
Did you try it out? 😀
Oooh! I don’t usually have silicone but I use polyurethane that dries like a nice silicone. Might just squirt out something into a mold…
yeah dude. its A2. a low alloy steel with a tiny bit of chromium carbide in it. ofc it grinds like butter on that belt. it would. stuff grinds like butter without power tools, by hand, too. most basic cutlery stainless steels would be twice as hard to grind. forget about some high alloy high speed bs.
Right on man. Thanks
have you tried the 24 grit "necro reaper" belts yet? I've heard good things about them
I haven't but I have heard good things.
I have a question : I can only find vsm xk870 here in Europe for my sander size, what's the difference ?
Do you know the length and width in MM of the VSM xk870?
Have you used combat abrasives belts before?
I haven’t but I have heard they are good. Is that what you use?
@@HouseMadeUS no I haven't gotten any belts yet. I'm still in the process of building my grinder and trying to find the best bag for buck at to purchase some. I have my treadmill motor and have to buy my rectifier and speed controller that you built in a previous video. I'm also most likely going to copy your build but for the main tube and platen arm will be using a hitch reciever and solid hitch I found for scrap.
Was just curious if you have used them yet.
Thanks for all the great info you have. Really appreciate it!
Yeah man, go VSM. From my experience they are the best bang for the buck. Good luck my friend and send some pics to brian@housework.us I’m putting together a compilation vid of all the grinders people have made.
@@HouseMadeUS will do. I just got a welder and need to set it up and see if the bottle I got has gas in it etc. Also need to cut a hole and weld my burner onto my forge. Trying to get into blacksmithing and knife making but it's cold in manitoba canada so not always easy/fun to go out in the garage with no heat haha
Ian Moster
Are zirconia belts even worth buying anymore?
We use them for non ferrous materials.
@@HouseMadeUS so they’re worth having around? Found some on marketplace 80 grit. Wasn’t sure if it was worth it for bevels or wood
What about zirconium belts?
Sure you can use those too. I use them for wood sometimes.
I am a knifemaker too and I am planning to buy a belt grinder. I just want to know which one is more efficient between zirconium and ceramic for hogging off steel... Reply awaited please
Why do people frown on scotch brite belts?
Not sure. I really love the finish.
This guy sound like Walter sorels
I'd take that as a compliment. They both rock, and are very helpful to the community.
THANKS FOR THIS DEMO!!! WHY DO MOST KNIFEMAKERS GRIND WITH THE CUTTING EDGE FORWARD??!!!...
If you're creating an edge it's better to look down at that edge while grinding. However I have done it both ways and almost prefer the edge to be away from me while I grind.