I’ve used this paint on multiple projects and the 70+ cabinet doors in my house was the last one I did. It was AHMAZING! Yes, 30 day cure for max durability but wow, does it level out nicely when brushing on the boxes and the trim. (I used a sprayer for the doors, 3 light coats, semi gloss which looks like satin). I prep SUPER well by degloss if only (no sanding) and then the trick is that I use KILZ ADHESION as the primer and waited a full 24 hrs before topcoating. Again, I didn’t have to sand (except a very light 300+ grit in between coats to knock down and lint burs) and I have factory finish cabinets that have never chipped once in over a year. That is what I call an amazing product.
DIYer here. Painted some in-place melamine cabinet boxes yesterday with a coat of SW primer and then SW Emerald. The result was as close to a factory finish as I’ve ever been able to achieve. One additional factor is the roller that the SW store employee suggested - mohair. That’s what I’ll be using from now on. Two coats of finish paint is still needed, but this was also as close I’ve come to stopping after one coat. We painted the cabinets in our old house using Behr Marquee - there’s no comparison. SW is light years ahead.
@@beckyfred5949 They suggested the 4” mohair rollers sold at the Sherwin Williams store. They worked great. The mohair rollers from Home Depot, which I also tried, did not work quite as well.
This paint is awesome! Purchased it last year to paint cabinets and still had some left over to do some trim work. Such a great product, very smooth, cleans well and shines. I highly recommend for your cabinets, doors, and trim. Don't think you'll be upset spending a bit more for a better product. Sherwin Williams is the only paint I buy anymore.
I used it in my kitchen, still looks good 4 years later. Love Sherwin Williams products. Painting a metal car lift soon with DTM and Alkyd water base urethane. Did a test piece straight to metal and super strong. I used their super paint exterior on my house 4 years ago and any touch up I do is an exact match from the original color. Amazing, no fade over 4 years? Wow.
I’ve used this and I’ve used BEHR cabinet paint. BEHR spreads and applies easier. But EMERALD is stronger. BEHR resulted in smoother finish. With BEHR I used brush for corners and foam roller for rest. Foam roller left side streaks with EMERALD, which is a thicker paint and doesn’t apply easily. So I used a short nap roller. I’m pretty sure that using a spray gun with EMERALD would make a superb finish!
@@WatersandWilderness 40% of "127" = 50 .... 127 - 50 = 77 , minus the 10 dollar coupon = $67 .... she said she paid $47 ..... your math is off .... As for my $60 , I never used her formula , and I probably paid $57 and just said $60 rounding off ..... the MSRP for Emerald I think is around $90 (of course MSRP on anything is a crock , but yesterday I was in Lowes , and some 3/4 plywood was $81 !!!!! I used to pay $25 not long ago !!!!!! This is insane
My experience with Emerald Urethane as a painter is that is really does have one of the nicest self-levelling finishes around - preferable to Advance IMO. The one downside is overall very slow curing times.(not repaint times) Surfaces while dry to the touch - actually remain "tacky" feeling for days after painting. This may depend partly on the base, and darkness of color. Certainly if you are painting doors and frames, the doors will stick to the frames if not given adequate curing time. I'm talking like a week minimum before paint on paint contact.
@@thepaintpeople Yes for sure. We are actually in a very dry low humidity climate, and this has still been my experience with the Emerald Urethane that it's quite a slow cure. Its not a deal breaker for sure, and the finish is worth it in my opinion.
Will the tackiness go away eventually? I am on day two after and worried about the darker of the two colors still having that soft/tacky feel while the white color I used feels a lot different.
Thanks for this video. I've been telling people about this paint for a long time. Water clean up, but brushes on like oil, with the ability to keep a good wet edge to work into, and also ends up laying out like oil, with no brush marks. I use it on crown, trim, cabinets and the like. Real trick is a good brush. I you're painting trim with a $2.95 brush, stop and call a plumber. He'll do a much better job of painting your trim.
I only use Purdy brushes and get zero brush marks with this paint. I’ve given up on rollers on cabinetry as I don’t like the slight orange peel effect rollers give. But Purdy (or even Wooster) 2.5” and led sash brushes are my go to for trim and cabinetry and cutting in when I do walls.
@@Camgrad2020thank goodness - I was using a purdy high nap roller ($$) and STILL getting orange peel affect with three different paints. Glad to know it wasn’t just my skill set and happens to everyone 😅 What about an Italian look with a grout sponge? Like on a focal wall? I have enamel in beige and gray and was thinking of blending In Tavern Taupe and a little Emerald shine? (Teen room) and yes I am a little unique 😂😂
I think it would also be important to note as a con, the extended cure time for this paint. At 30 days to full hardness, that is considerable, compared to most other standard latex finishes.
i know this video is 3 years old, but thank you, it was exactly what i needed. i'm remodeling my home and was having trouble decided on paint products.
Thank you for your video. After I watched it I decided to paint all my cabinets with Emerald. I just made the mistake of using a 120 grit sandpaper. Scratches were visible. I still think is a good product. The time will say.
You have to prime cabinets with XIM. Dry fast and after light sand with 220 and clean with damp water rag. It will feel like lacker. I am a contractor for more than 30 years. I hope the tip will help you.
@@sparrow7356 OK Mr sparrow....you are right. Nothing like lacquer. But. With proper preparation and thining the paint. It will get soft enough for a nice and professional finish.. lacquer products isn't for everybody. First of all you have to have the right equipment and know how to applyed. That's why I was giving the example of hybrid paint like advance.... Thanks for the laugh. 😎
Deep and ultra deep base in this product stays soft for 2-3 days. If you paint cabinets and doors wait at least 2 days before trying to re-hang the doors.
That's the only paint that I use on cabinets. I used to use Benjamin Moore Advance but I feel the Emerald Urathane is easier to work with...great video👍
I agree , I didn't like Advance , and I saw a review and Emerald outperformed Advance agianst scratches and chemicals after curing .... Advance gets too sticky too fast , but dries slow as hell , and to hell with 16 hours to recoat .... might as well use oil
BEWARE of the Dark colors- I had a very dark color mixed in this formula. I was painting kitchen cabinets and wood work around windows in the same room. I tested this on a clean, dry , prepped surface - tested in two areas due to different wood types. The paint was applied with recommended brushes and a thin layer. It was still sticky two weeks later!!!! I returned the paint - the person at Sherwin Williams was not the same sales person I had. They explained to me that due to the dark colors having so much pigment that it will dry much slower. I was able to exchange for an oil based satin paint. I love the idea of this paint but in reality I need to use and clean my kitchen and the paint needs to be tough! I would say it might be ok on trim but If you have a busy home and love the darker colors avoid this paint.
I spray all colors in emerald even black. If it was tacky that long something was seriously wrong. Even at 40 degrees I had it dry in hours. Either there was a serious humidity problem or something was wrong with that can or the process.
Used a dark color Emerald @SherwinWilliams paint on ALL the tons of our exterior TRIM. Besides local SW never being able to actually MATCH our WINDOW/DOOR color DARK BRONZE (despite having the exact color codes from the manufacturer🙄), EMERALD FADED badly within about 2-3 years after application (even though two coats of this pudding thick paint was applied, as instructed, on primed surfaces)! NOT happy campers!
Hmmm interesting. I got "Cascades" in this paint which is close to a forest green for our front and back doors. We prepped the surface really good, cleaned it, primered the doors and then applied the paint over. The paint was still translucent after the second coat and I could see the primer shining through. I ended up doing 5 coats and I can still see some of the primer flashing through in areas. I have no idea how thats possible an its almost like the paint is just not thick enough which counteracts your point but still makes me wonder what the heck is wrong. We ended up just leaving it as a "rustic" look but I still wonder what I could have done differently. Maybe a light sanding after each coat?
Yeah this paint is weird I’ve used this paint multiple times with semi gloss and I noticed the colors that use a deep base are always the ones that remain soft and tacky and don’t dry as hard as they should. I always try to avoid using deepbase colors if I need a finish that I need to dry to hard film.
Thank you! I’ve been introduced to this and now I need more because my handyman painted some white cabinets and a piece of furniture with Glidden flat and a roller. Now I have to sand them back down and paint them with the stuff I use as a trim. I hope it works!
I cringed at "painted some white cabinets and a piece of furniture with Glidden flat." I always recommend a satin at the very least, but semi-gloss is most common (easier to clean and more durable). I used to sell/mix Glidden paint and...yeah, the kind I dealt with was as thin as water.
After several years of Pro Classic latex on my kitchen cabinets, I am now going to Emerald urethane for durability. Used it on other projects and love the durability. What do you guys recommend for the process??? (Cleaning, primer, ...etc.) thank you
This is a product that definitely needs to be sprayed every time I’ve used it with a brush or roller. It requires at least three coats. The bleedthrough is ridiculous. I do agree that is a good thing and is extremely durable. I just wish it covered better.
My son and I are painters and we have been doing kitchens and trim/casing and doors for years. At the behest of our SW rep we did two large cabinet and shiplap jobs with the emerald. The white Swiss coffee worked well and had a beautiful finish...the dark colors(the new look in kitchen undercabinets) are terrible...cure time is extensive..weeks before fully hardened. SW knows this. Last week with SW reps on hand at the shop we tested out the water based lacquer black undercabinets...did not go well. SW said the black formula was off and we will shoot the cabinets again.... if going with water based we have had years of good results with Pro Classic....both the latex and oil., B Moore Advance and IMPERVO. Airless we use a 312 tip for most production. On the lower price scale we have been using Pittsburgh paramount one coat and the results are phenomenal. PARAMOUNT is truly a near One Coat product, especially if you have to brush or role you cabinets and trim.
I recently used the emerald urethane for cabinets and trim in the ultra deep bases.The dark green for cabinets dried fast no issues and the black on the trim turned out great I’m thinking they changed the formula for the darker bases.I experienced no tackiness it set up fast.I was worried about reading about problems with the darker bases but turned out great.I think the semi gloss looks much better then the satin.I’m a painter in Chicago I’ve used a lot of the satin,it’s smooth looking but not to the touch like the semigloss
Well lemme hop in my truck and drive cross country to san diego to get some..😜 Thats the last place I used DE paints anyway. So sick of swiss coffee i was
Used this to paint our kitchen cabinets and they look wonderful. We followed directions and it worked well and we definitely recommend it :) Always depends on what cabinets and the environment of course so one opinion/experience doesnt work for everyone. We were wondering how long we had to wait before we used our stove. We arent touching the cabinets, are not putting doors back on or drawers back in, just giving it time and being careful. But wondering about our stove insert being against the cabinets and while it doesnt get hot, there is still heat around. So should we wait for a couple days? A week? Or more? Thank you :)
Did you get an answer to this question? I have the same question. About to do our cabinets, walls, doors and trim. I'm wondering ho along to wait afterwards before being able to put all the cabinet doors and drawers back on and the doors to all the rooms. What was your experince? Thank you
I had MAJOR issues with the high hide white base in satin. Not a bad lot because it was 2 different stores and purchased 3 months apart. Applied really nice (mostly over double primed FJP or MDF which had been more that adequately prepped) and had a subtle sheen you'd expect from satin but to the touch it felt like chalk paint - literally rough and chalky. Worse than if I'd used a flat latex. To rule out user/compatability error I experimented with a brush, roller and my minimite 5 over different primers and all the same results. Something with the HHW base and maybe just in that sheen as I have no issues with the deep tint base - beautiful results. Also noticed that it separates in the can very, very quickly. I'm typically an Advance user but wanted to try something that had a little better hang for brush and roller jobs or projects where I had a lot of edges and corners (ex 6 panel doors in a remodel where the customer doesn't want me spraying) where Advance can be a challenge. Not touching this stuff again until SW acknowledges it and fixes it.....which in their world means releasing the fixed product as a "new" product and upping the price 20%.....
We will be doing a series of videos that compare all the different types of cabinet paint. Our comparisons will focus on, coverage, scratch resistance, adhesion and slef leveling properties. Stay tuned!
I would say that it's probably the base itself. Emerald Urethane used to be manufactured in Extra White, but I believe it's been completely replaced by HHW. It may work better if you ask for some white tint to be added. If that doesn't resolve it, have you tried Proclassic? I sell that one often, and it comes in latex, oil, and a hybrid (which would likely be closest to ETU). Both homeowners and painters have given me great feedback on it.
Same issue here with the satin. Sprayed 6 doors, added Floetrol for the last one since the paint wouldn't lay out good. That door turned out smooth as silk, but all were really flat for a satin. To make matters worst, the color was Black Fox. I'm going to run one with a semi gloss and hope for improvement.
well, they haven't fixed the issue with the satin yet. I am going over another painters satin hhw from 3 months ago and It's amazing how flat the finish is and how it feels like 1200 grit sandpaper. so odd.
I noticed the same thing after using the Urethane Satin HHW. When running my hand over the surface, I was shocked at how course it was. I've been using Snap Dry in satin for quite some time for interior doors, and never noticed this problem.
I had same issues. Painted some time and doors with extra white colour and finish feels chaulky. Prefer pro classic 2 alkyd smooth finish. Both were in Satin.
I’m glad I found your channel, I am learning many things about paints. We bought the top of the line paint from Home Depot to paint a 114 year old house in Maine, the paint is not holding as it claimed. In the interior we are using the Aura from Benjamin Moore, so happy with it
Yep Behr paint sucks. Let's see what's wrong with it. It can't deal with bathroom cleaners not even in satin it will discolor fairly easily. It's not very scuff resistant even in semi-gloss on the trim. The ceiling paint they make is not flat enough. The Behr outdoor paint even in semi-gloss easily grows mildew and stains easily. If you can't tell I have used a lot of Behr products.
@@thepaintpeople Benjamin Moore waterborne ceiling paint dead flat. Benjamin Moore regal select. I'm going to try Benjamin Moore Aura next. I also want to try cabinet coat for trim. I also don't like PPG timeless it almost looks like plastic.
What are your thoughts for using this on a table top? Not sure this was a good choice, but I had the paint left over from a cabinet remodel. I sanded the table, then applied 2 coats of Bin Shelac based Primer, sanding between cots. Then applied 3 coats of the Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel, again lightly sanding between coats. I applied the paint with a Fuji Mini Mite 4 HVLP sprayer. This is where I think I might be going down a bad path. To get it to spray decent I thinned it as follows: Paint 62%. Floetrol 20%, Water 17%. Now I am doubting whether this was a good idea.
Great for tables. No reduction needed. Airless sprayer with a fine finish tip. It’s a urethane so it takes a bit longer to current to maximum hardness, about 20 days. Cheers.
I just walked out of my local SW dealer and he recommended this product...Also said i would not need a primer going over some oak, polyeurathane finished cabinets. Anyone confirm this. Would be a game changer is so. I have a huge kitchen to do.
Can I really use this directly over oil paint? I have almost a full gallon left over from professional painters at my house. I want to paint my laundry room cabinets myself but they were previously painted with oil based paint. SW employees said I could use it over oil with no primer, but the SW 800 number said you must use a primer with this before painting over oil. I’m confused.
Okay. I have a HUGE project to do. Can I use this on furniture? Am I supposed to use a primer paint before? And do you seal this with a wax? I’m so new to this. Please help! TIA
We had our kids’ bedrooms painted with this and the smell will not go away! Does that mean they should not be in the room until it dissipates completely? Never had this problem before.
I've been in the process of remodeling my garage. It's coming up on 60 yrs of age and it showed. I've done my best with drywall repair, new window, spray foam insulation around doors, and 3 coats of kilz primer on the walls. This will be a functional workspace when finished, wood working projects, auto maintenance, etc. With SW having a 30% off sale this weekend would you recommend this for wall paint over anything else? Thanks.
Well, I made my decision on a paint color for my kitchen cabinets and I chose to go with the Emerald. I get to my local Sherwin Williams and they say "We can Only do very light shades of Green if you want a Satin finish." Umm, No..I searched for months on my exact color of Green in satin finish and They Can't do it. Ridiculous!! Now I have no choice but to drive 40 minutes to my closest Ace Hardware for the Number One Choice Benjamin Moores Advance..because I CAN GET ANY COLOR & FINISH I WANT 😊
This is good paint but Kelly Moore has an eurathane trim enamel that dries much harder when it cures it is way more durable. I own a painting company and have used many gallons of both products. Sherwin told me have addrothe issues of it not being hard enough
Hey folks... A quick couple of questions. I am using the Emerald product on two sets of bedroom furniture, both are stained with a top coat..... 1. Any recommendations on the need or suggestion of a primer? 2. I will be spraying this. I spray anything I can!!! Can this product be sprayed through an HVLP automobile type sprayer w/ compressor. I also have a graco truecoat pro 2 handheld or a commercial grade graco 5 gallon sprayer... I prefer the handheld units. So suggestions on which tip to use? 3. Does this spray like a latex paint, oil, or urethane top coat? That would narrow my issues down quickly!!! Thank you in advance, Wes
I started my project and need more in a deep base. Waiting almost a year and they still don’t have it. I liked the results but going to have to use and re do with another product. I can’t wait forever. I was thinking BM Advancc might be comparable or is there anything else? Kind of disappointing I can’t get this product when I debated the price and went for it to just get burned.
I really like the look of low sheen. If I use the satin will it still clean as well as semi-gloss? What should I use for Primer over old 1950's wood stained doors? Thanks
I have used this on cabinets, with a 1/4" roller and "GOOD" brush, and it is awesome! For the primer? Old cabinets in my customer's 1998 mobile home, after using TSP for cleaning, I used Zinsser's B.I.N. Shelac primer. Sticks to everything and seals everything. Customer bought new "Diamond" cabinets to replace the lower cabinets and build a new island. I painted the old uppers with this paint (In a Satin finish) and can't tell the difference between the old an new.
@thepaintpeople Our painters typically use urethane semi gloss for all trim. Would the urethane semi gloss be comparable to a regular satin finish? I like the satin finish more, but I’ve heard different things about the urethane semi gloss in satin being too dull?? I need help!!
I'm disappointed in how gritty the High Hide White Urethane satin feels after it's been sprayed on. When I mentioned this to the manager at the SW store, I could tell he thought I was imagining it. It's a very disappointing product. I haven't used the semi-gloss yet, but I'm looking forward to trying it someday and seeing if it's any better (even though I prefer the look of a satin).
I purchased to paint my hitched cabinets. I am rolling and brushing the bases and will spray the drawers and doors. I am finding this VERY difficult to work with. Haven’t tested in sprayer yet.
You need a latex extender like M-1 to brush and roll. I dilute it about 10%, still with limited working time. It is my favorite spraying finish product on the market.
Brush the cabinets??? No Cut what is necessary and immediately roll it as close as possible with a 4inch 3/16 mohair small roller or either a foam roller, if doing it by hand. Have a spare board or peice of sheet rock to roll the roller on first till its not so heavy in the roller until you get practice being able to spread it on. The last thing you want to do is load up your little roller and not have enough room on the cabinets to spread it to where its not too much if you want a decent finish.
I have used it...good paint....dry time drove me crazy......Question: Of all the Sherwin -Williams paints...which acrylic would be the best and most durable for cabinets ?
@@K_njie Emerald Urathane on cabinet doors with roller: about 3 to 4 hours to dry on a hot sunny day. When I paint Behr Dynasty..I can do the second coat in 10 to 15 minutes. Almost dries too fast.
@@K_njie I used the Behr Marquee for about the past 8 years. I just switched last year to the Behr Dynasty because it is a step up from Marquee. It does dry pretty fast. The Emerald Urathayne is more durable...but the Dynasty and Marqee are durable enough. Urathayne to me is like a combination of acrylic and oil base paint. Behr is all acrylic.
Can this be used on a dresser or nightstand? I really love the color Greek Villa but I’m so confused on if I can use SW on certain furniture pieces or what primer/top coat can go with Emerald enamel.
Yes you can! Stix is my go to primer if I'm not sure what kind of surface I'm dealing with but there are others, and for a top coat, most people use a water-based polyurethane.
It's largely up to you. If it's a product you love to work with, why not? The only things are: it only comes in shinier finishes, and you won't need the added durability/washability when it's a surface all the way up your wall! haha
If there's no paint on it already, no. If it's just the bare metal I'd recommend a product called DTM, or direct to metal paint. It's more of an industrial product so it only comes in gallons or 5 gals and if your not going to need that much you might need something else like all surface enamel with a primer like kem kromic. I've only been mentioning Sherwin Williams products as well, there are others that would work.
I bought an Unfinished Pine Interior Door Slab from Home Depot. It seems to have no discernible knotty. Can you recommend the best primer and paint? I prefer water-based products for low VOC. Thanks
@@thepaintpeople Thanks for the recommendation. Check with my local bm store and they don't carry the Advance/Scuff-x. Do you have any recommendation on similar products from Sherwin? Thanks
You can use the Water based primer first then apply the Emerald Urethane or even the Pro Classic. If you wanted a 100% water based top coat then use the the Standard Emerald line or the Duration line from SW.
Emerald is crap I been painting for a long time I've used everything emerald stays soft for about a week before it starts getting hard that's y I switched to pro classic
I absolutely love this paint, however, my painters did not cover my new tile floor and they dripped the paint on the tile and the floor is ruined. I can't get this paint off the floor.
What do you feel is the best cabinet paint? As far as self leveling, open time, and hardness/durability? What’s the holy grail? I haven’t tried breakthrough yet, because of the formula change.
I only use emerald now also. Alot of people won't try other products and just swear what they use is best. Plenty of people that used lacquers have switched to emerald. It is a great product
Both are great products. Emerald Urethane will dry faster and Advance has better self leveling properties. It's a tough choice but I would lean towards Advance. Cheers!
Really I don’t understand. lacquer and emerald are two deferent coatings. I’m guessing that maybe you have a dark color island probably a green which is popular now and want to use lacquer to finish the woodwork. Emerald has a horrible cure time and I would switch to Benjamin Moore command paint.
That dry time thing iswhat Ive been sweating. Sherwin is hassling me to try it. My pro classic price for the whole job. Im considering it. Have you sent it through the airless? If so.. tip size and thoughts? Thanks for this review
Pro classic is junk. There are many better enamels out there. Emerald may work but the second you get a dark color good luck. Try bm command. If spraying use a 310 or a 308 tip for dark colors.
@@mattbradley2603 Question of the day. What's not junk these days? Paint has only gotten worse in the 38 years I have been doing it. God forbid you want an actual bright white trim paint. The only one I know of is ppg advantage 900 interior exterior. Far as the Emerald enamel goes I'm partially into the job. I pre sprayed a stack of baseboards with a 310 ff in the airless. Worked very nice. Doors and casings installed and those are all brushed and look solid. I also cut and rolled 6 bathroom ceilings with the Emerald. So far looks good and it just took some is unnecessary roughness. The electrician mounted all of the fartfans proud of the drywall and somehow there is no way to access how he mounted them (tight building brought back from the dead over 120 years old) so I had to grind away portions of the housing and the ribbing on the plastic slip over cover.. sparks flyin everywhere and when I was done the blackness brushed off with a dustbrush. Main complaint about the paint in this thread... it aint true white. None of sherwin Williams paints are. It does appear to be true semi gloss though. I have Emerald satin on the bath walls and Matte Emerald in the rest of the common areas. It all works out.
This product vs valspar cabinet enamel? Ive seen a bunch of people ooh and ah over the Benjamin Moore paint...but locally I have a lowes, PPG amd Sherwin Williams...
I did a "stick test" with Valspar Cab Paint .... seems to dry pretty hard , not bad ..... I've been using Emerald on some cabs and liking it , definitely levels out well .... advance sucks , hard to use , slow recoat time , might as well use oil , gets tacky fast , I think Emerald is better ..... I have not painted with Valspar Cab Paint , just did a stick test ..... dried pretty hard , not bad , but I have not used it
Thanks so much for this info! It’s super helpful. We’re currently doing kitchen renovations and are painting in 2 days! Yay. With the typical oil based paints used for cabinets, we planned on moving out while they paint BUT when I spoke with Sherwin William’s they said this paint would be more tolerable for still living in the home. You mentioned however that the smell is different and not really enjoyable. Would you live in your home for 6 days while they paint or get a hotel? Your advice is greatly appreciate.
It really depends on your personal tolerance, I'd say. The fumes won't be harmful, and will only smell in the immediate areas that are being painted, while it's drying. Keep the windows open where you can!
I lived in my house after painting my entire kitchen with SW Emerald privilege green, and only could smell it slightly when I went into the kitchen first thing in the AM. My wife never could smell anything, so I wouldn't worry about any smell. Besides........play doh really isn't a bad smell lol.
@@dawnd7332 It remains rather soft at first so be careful. After about 3 weeks, it turns rock hard and gets harder as it ages. If you do have to touch up, and you have applied the paint with a brush and roller, it touches up easily and leaves no mark. Scroll down to Penut's comment and you will find comments by me explaining exactly how to apply this paint. If you follow my directions, you will be very pleased with the results. I painted my wife's entire kitchen two coats with a quart and a half of paint. If you need any more help, feel free to email me. Many pros hate this paint because it is very thin and will run on vertical surfaces if not applied properly.
@@jimb3457 I’d like to see what you’re recommendations are, but I can’t seem to find your explanation on how to apply this paint anywhere in these comments. I’m going to paint wood trim and cabinets. I have a cheap ($30) Krause & Beck airless sprayer from Harbor Freight, I’m hoping I’ll be able to use it with the SW emerald ute.
Do you need to sand between coats of this paint? My project started with bare poplar and birch plywood. I first primed with 3 coats of SW wood primer (sanding all 3 coats), So far I've done 1 top coat of emerald, but will do at least one more top coat of emerald.
@@soldier4christsoldier4chri90 I ended up having to build my bench cabinet in place due to my small area, which meant I had to attach from the front side of the cabinet. Because I had already primed the boards twice before installation with the wood primer from SW, I essentially had to prime it again to cover the minwax wood filler I used to cover my bolt holes (great stuff btw). Then, it took only 2 coats of the enamel paint with a 6" roller with 1/4" nap to get the nice coverage and finish. I dry brushed each coat with a 2" nylon bristle brush after rolling to get a smoother texture. Totally happy with the results.
Not even close to oil based paints... In fact. It feels like a watered down acrylic paint with some glue as the hardener. In fact. I'd bet that's exactly what it is. It is the pinnacle of Super Ultra Premium!!!
@@norsemendanes9622 Also an SW employee. I've always been told that it could go over water or oil-based paints. What causes Emerald Urethane to be problematic when used over an oil-based paint?
@@morganharney409 it says it "can" but I sold 10 gals to a contractor and he went over oil based on some cabinets and it failed terribly it was cracking and peeling within 1 week and we had to refund and give him all new paint, and all of it was ASE oil hand tinted with the BAC 🤦♂️
I’ve used this paint on multiple projects and the 70+ cabinet doors in my house was the last one I did. It was AHMAZING! Yes, 30 day cure for max durability but wow, does it level out nicely when brushing on the boxes and the trim. (I used a sprayer for the doors, 3 light coats, semi gloss which looks like satin). I prep SUPER well by degloss if only (no sanding) and then the trick is that I use KILZ ADHESION as the primer and waited a full 24 hrs before topcoating. Again, I didn’t have to sand (except a very light 300+ grit in between coats to knock down and lint burs) and I have factory finish cabinets that have never chipped once in over a year. That is what I call an amazing product.
I feel like any decent paint would hold up that well with as good a prep-job as you did, lol!
@@amberslilrose3954no
DIYer here. Painted some in-place melamine cabinet boxes yesterday with a coat of SW primer and then SW Emerald. The result was as close to a factory finish as I’ve ever been able to achieve. One additional factor is the roller that the SW store employee suggested - mohair. That’s what I’ll be using from now on. Two coats of finish paint is still needed, but this was also as close I’ve come to stopping after one coat. We painted the cabinets in our old house using Behr Marquee - there’s no comparison. SW is light years ahead.
Hey Mike, thanks for sharing your tips! Glad it worked out for you!
What rollers were suggested? Getting ready to refinish a bedroom set. Thanks.
@@beckyfred5949 They suggested the 4” mohair rollers sold at the Sherwin Williams store. They worked great. The mohair rollers from Home Depot, which I also tried, did not work quite as well.
This paint is awesome! Purchased it last year to paint cabinets and still had some left over to do some trim work. Such a great product, very smooth, cleans well and shines. I highly recommend for your cabinets, doors, and trim. Don't think you'll be upset spending a bit more for a better product. Sherwin Williams is the only paint I buy anymore.
Did you use a primer? If you did what did you use? Thanks!
@@dawnd7332you have to use primer first I use zinsser before two coats sanding 240 before spraying two coats
I used it in my kitchen, still looks good 4 years later. Love Sherwin Williams products. Painting a metal car lift soon with DTM and Alkyd water base urethane. Did a test piece straight to metal and super strong. I used their super paint exterior on my house 4 years ago and any touch up I do is an exact match from the original color. Amazing, no fade over 4 years? Wow.
I’ve used this and I’ve used BEHR cabinet paint. BEHR spreads and applies easier. But EMERALD is stronger. BEHR resulted in smoother finish. With BEHR I used brush for corners and foam roller for rest. Foam roller left side streaks with EMERALD, which is a thicker paint and doesn’t apply easily. So I used a short nap roller. I’m pretty sure that using a spray gun with EMERALD would make a superb finish!
This paint goes on sale quite often. I was able to get it at 40% off plus an added $10 off coupon. This made it only $47 per gallon. That's a steal.
it sure is .... I paid $60
@@shure46 @ would make the regular price about $127.00
@@WatersandWilderness 40% of "127" = 50 .... 127 - 50 = 77 , minus the 10 dollar coupon = $67 .... she said she paid $47 ..... your math is off .... As for my $60 , I never used her formula , and I probably paid $57 and just said $60 rounding off ..... the MSRP for Emerald I think is around $90 (of course MSRP on anything is a crock , but yesterday I was in Lowes , and some 3/4 plywood was $81 !!!!! I used to pay $25 not long ago !!!!!! This is insane
My experience with Emerald Urethane as a painter is that is really does have one of the nicest self-levelling finishes around - preferable to Advance IMO. The one downside is overall very slow curing times.(not repaint times) Surfaces while dry to the touch - actually remain "tacky" feeling for days after painting. This may depend partly on the base, and darkness of color. Certainly if you are painting doors and frames, the doors will stick to the frames if not given adequate curing time. I'm talking like a week minimum before paint on paint contact.
Also, moisture and humidity can play a big role with those drying times as well. It's great to hear you had an otherwise great experience!
@@thepaintpeople Yes for sure. We are actually in a very dry low humidity climate, and this has still been my experience with the Emerald Urethane that it's quite a slow cure. Its not a deal breaker for sure, and the finish is worth it in my opinion.
Will the tackiness go away eventually? I am on day two after and worried about the darker of the two colors still having that soft/tacky feel while the white color I used feels a lot different.
I sprayed a kitchen with dark base cabinets, and white uppers, and I managed to coat each 3 times, and sand in between coats over about 8 hours.
Most paints take up to a week to fully cure given proper temperatures, humidity etc
Thanks for this video. I've been telling people about this paint for a long time. Water clean up, but brushes on like oil, with the ability to keep a good wet edge to work into, and also ends up laying out like oil, with no brush marks. I use it on crown, trim, cabinets and the like. Real trick is a good brush. I you're painting trim with a $2.95 brush, stop and call a plumber. He'll do a much better job of painting your trim.
Which brush do you use?
"... stop and call a plumber." lol. very, very funny and apt! still lol'ing ;)
I only use Purdy brushes and get zero brush marks with this paint. I’ve given up on rollers on cabinetry as I don’t like the slight orange peel effect rollers give. But Purdy (or even Wooster) 2.5” and led sash brushes are my go to for trim and cabinetry and cutting in when I do walls.
@@Camgrad2020thank goodness - I was using a purdy high nap roller ($$) and STILL getting orange peel affect with three different paints. Glad to know it wasn’t just my skill set and happens to everyone 😅
What about an Italian look with a grout sponge? Like on a focal wall? I have enamel in beige and gray and was thinking of blending In Tavern Taupe and a little Emerald shine? (Teen room) and yes I am a little unique 😂😂
I think it would also be important to note as a con, the extended cure time for this paint. At 30 days to full hardness, that is considerable, compared to most other standard latex finishes.
The paint isn't planning on running away from the home, is it?
@@OOpSjm What? Lol.
Thats fair but ive found regal select takes a couple weeks to harden as well
i know this video is 3 years old, but thank you, it was exactly what i needed. i'm remodeling my home and was having trouble decided on paint products.
Love this product. Painted my bead board backsplash with it in Pure White. It's finish is fantastic.
Thank you for your video. After I watched it I decided to paint all my cabinets with Emerald. I just made the mistake of using a 120 grit sandpaper. Scratches were visible. I still think is a good product. The time will say.
Definitely is. Yeah that a rough grit sandpaper for a good finish
220 is the coarsest you should go. 320 give a really nice surface.
300 is recommended between coats to give tooth to next coat .Final coat needs no sanding .
You have to prime cabinets with XIM. Dry fast and after light sand with 220 and clean with damp water rag. It will feel like lacker.
I am a contractor for more than 30 years.
I hope the tip will help you.
Thanks for the tip!
Hahahaha it will feel like lacquer 🤣🤣 not even close, this paint doesn't have a nice finish like other brands, no way
@@sparrow7356
OK Mr sparrow....you are right.
Nothing like lacquer.
But. With proper preparation and thining the paint. It will get soft enough for a nice and professional finish.. lacquer products isn't for everybody. First of all you have to have the right equipment and know how to applyed.
That's why I was giving the example of hybrid paint like advance....
Thanks for the laugh. 😎
Do you recommend this product on kitchen cabinets?
I heard you should use Sherwin Williams Extreme Bond Primer
This paint made me look good! I painted my daughter's built-ins with this, and I ended up with a VERY smooth finish.
And here I thought there was no paint that could make ME look good lol.
Deep and ultra deep base in this product stays soft for 2-3 days. If you paint cabinets and doors wait at least 2 days before trying to re-hang the doors.
@suburban me: Thanks for the advice.
Sure appreciate the informative videos, thank you so much for doing them
It's our pleasure! Thanks a lot
That's the only paint that I use on cabinets. I used to use Benjamin Moore Advance but I feel the Emerald Urathane is easier to work with...great video👍
Glad to hear that! It's a really nice product!
I agree , I didn't like Advance , and I saw a review and Emerald outperformed Advance agianst scratches and chemicals after curing .... Advance gets too sticky too fast , but dries slow as hell , and to hell with 16 hours to recoat .... might as well use oil
Same here, I use it on all my trim, baseboards and cabinet work. Great product and well worth the money.
Sal do you need to out a top coat on this paint for cabinets? And what would that be?
No need... that is the top coat
your videos give me so much confidence while redoing my condo! thank you!!
BEWARE of the Dark colors- I had a very dark color mixed in this formula. I was painting kitchen cabinets and wood work around windows in the same room. I tested this on a clean, dry , prepped surface - tested in two areas due to different wood types. The paint was applied with recommended brushes and a thin layer. It was still sticky two weeks later!!!! I returned the paint - the person at Sherwin Williams was not the same sales person I had. They explained to me that due to the dark colors having so much pigment that it will dry much slower. I was able to exchange for an oil based satin paint. I love the idea of this paint but in reality I need to use and clean my kitchen and the paint needs to be tough! I would say it might be ok on trim but If you have a busy home and love the darker colors avoid this paint.
Yes with some paint, dark colours can remain tacky. Humidity also plays a big factor in the drying process. Thanks for sharing.
I spray all colors in emerald even black. If it was tacky that long something was seriously wrong. Even at 40 degrees I had it dry in hours. Either there was a serious humidity problem or something was wrong with that can or the process.
Used a dark color Emerald @SherwinWilliams paint on ALL the tons of our exterior TRIM.
Besides local SW never being able to actually MATCH our WINDOW/DOOR color DARK BRONZE (despite having the exact color codes from the manufacturer🙄), EMERALD FADED badly within about 2-3 years after application (even though two coats of this pudding thick paint was applied, as instructed, on primed surfaces)! NOT happy campers!
Hmmm interesting. I got "Cascades" in this paint which is close to a forest green for our front and back doors. We prepped the surface really good, cleaned it, primered the doors and then applied the paint over. The paint was still translucent after the second coat and I could see the primer shining through. I ended up doing 5 coats and I can still see some of the primer flashing through in areas. I have no idea how thats possible an its almost like the paint is just not thick enough which counteracts your point but still makes me wonder what the heck is wrong. We ended up just leaving it as a "rustic" look but I still wonder what I could have done differently. Maybe a light sanding after each coat?
Yeah this paint is weird I’ve used this paint multiple times with semi gloss and I noticed the colors that use a deep base are always the ones that remain soft and tacky and don’t dry as hard as they should. I always try to avoid using deepbase colors if I need a finish that I need to dry to hard film.
Thank you, Just picked up a gallon for my baseboards, getting ready to get after it......many thx
Glad I could help Tyler!
Thank you! I’ve been introduced to this and now I need more because my handyman painted some white cabinets and a piece of furniture with Glidden flat and a roller. Now I have to sand them back down and paint them with the stuff I use as a trim. I hope it works!
I cringed at "painted some white cabinets and a piece of furniture with Glidden flat." I always recommend a satin at the very least, but semi-gloss is most common (easier to clean and more durable). I used to sell/mix Glidden paint and...yeah, the kind I dealt with was as thin as water.
Which primer do you recommend with this painting thanks you
After several years of Pro Classic latex on my kitchen cabinets, I am now going to Emerald urethane for durability. Used it on other projects and love the durability. What do you guys recommend for the process??? (Cleaning, primer, ...etc.) thank you
This is a product that definitely needs to be sprayed every time I’ve used it with a brush or roller. It requires at least three coats. The bleedthrough is ridiculous. I do agree that is a good thing and is extremely durable. I just wish it covered better.
My son and I are painters and we have been doing kitchens and trim/casing and doors for years. At the behest of our SW rep we did two large cabinet and shiplap jobs with the emerald. The white Swiss coffee worked well and had a beautiful finish...the dark colors(the new look in kitchen undercabinets) are terrible...cure time is extensive..weeks before fully hardened. SW knows this. Last week with SW reps on hand at the shop we tested out the water based lacquer black undercabinets...did not go well. SW said the black formula was off and we will shoot the cabinets again.... if going with water based we have had years of good results with Pro Classic....both the latex and oil., B Moore Advance and IMPERVO. Airless we use a 312 tip for most production. On the lower price scale we have been using Pittsburgh paramount one coat and the results are phenomenal. PARAMOUNT is truly a near One Coat product, especially if you have to brush or role you cabinets and trim.
I recently used the emerald urethane for cabinets and trim in the ultra deep bases.The dark green for cabinets dried fast no issues and the black on the trim turned out great I’m thinking they changed the formula for the darker bases.I experienced no tackiness it set up fast.I was worried about reading about problems with the darker bases but turned out great.I think the semi gloss looks much better then the satin.I’m a painter in Chicago I’ve used a lot of the satin,it’s smooth looking but not to the touch like the semigloss
Nothing beats DUNN-EDWARDS Aristoshield!!!!
Well lemme hop in my truck and drive cross country to san diego to get some..😜
Thats the last place I used DE paints anyway.
So sick of swiss coffee i was
Used this to paint our kitchen cabinets and they look wonderful. We followed directions and it worked well and we definitely recommend it :) Always depends on what cabinets and the environment of course so one opinion/experience doesnt work for everyone. We were wondering how long we had to wait before we used our stove. We arent touching the cabinets, are not putting doors back on or drawers back in, just giving it time and being careful. But wondering about our stove insert being against the cabinets and while it doesnt get hot, there is still heat around. So should we wait for a couple days? A week? Or more? Thank you :)
Did you get an answer to this question? I have the same question. About to do our cabinets, walls, doors and trim. I'm wondering ho along to wait afterwards before being able to put all the cabinet doors and drawers back on and the doors to all the rooms. What was your experince? Thank you
I had MAJOR issues with the high hide white base in satin. Not a bad lot because it was 2 different stores and purchased 3 months apart. Applied really nice (mostly over double primed FJP or MDF which had been more that adequately prepped) and had a subtle sheen you'd expect from satin but to the touch it felt like chalk paint - literally rough and chalky. Worse than if I'd used a flat latex. To rule out user/compatability error I experimented with a brush, roller and my minimite 5 over different primers and all the same results. Something with the HHW base and maybe just in that sheen as I have no issues with the deep tint base - beautiful results. Also noticed that it separates in the can very, very quickly.
I'm typically an Advance user but wanted to try something that had a little better hang for brush and roller jobs or projects where I had a lot of edges and corners (ex 6 panel doors in a remodel where the customer doesn't want me spraying) where Advance can be a challenge. Not touching this stuff again until SW acknowledges it and fixes it.....which in their world means releasing the fixed product as a "new" product and upping the price 20%.....
We will be doing a series of videos that compare all the different types of cabinet paint. Our comparisons will focus on, coverage, scratch resistance, adhesion and slef leveling properties. Stay tuned!
I would say that it's probably the base itself. Emerald Urethane used to be manufactured in Extra White, but I believe it's been completely replaced by HHW. It may work better if you ask for some white tint to be added. If that doesn't resolve it, have you tried Proclassic? I sell that one often, and it comes in latex, oil, and a hybrid (which would likely be closest to ETU). Both homeowners and painters have given me great feedback on it.
Same issue here with the satin. Sprayed 6 doors, added Floetrol for the last one since the paint wouldn't lay out good. That door turned out smooth as silk, but all were really flat for a satin. To make matters worst, the color was Black Fox. I'm going to run one with a semi gloss and hope for improvement.
well, they haven't fixed the issue with the satin yet. I am going over another painters satin hhw from 3 months ago and It's amazing how flat the finish is and how it feels like 1200 grit sandpaper. so odd.
I noticed the same thing after using the Urethane Satin HHW. When running my hand over the surface, I was shocked at how course it was. I've been using Snap Dry in satin for quite some time for interior doors, and never noticed this problem.
I really like it in general. It looks great HOWEVER, the SATIN although it looks nice finished FEELS like 220 grit.
I had same issues. Painted some time and doors with extra white colour and finish feels chaulky. Prefer pro classic 2 alkyd smooth finish. Both were in Satin.
we use it on all our trim, doors, baseboards and cabinet work.
Awesome! What sorts of projects do you typically work on? Residential or commercial?
@@thepaintpeople Residential, Interior/ Exterior and cabinets. Specializing in Graco jet roll Exteriors.
I’m glad I found your channel, I am learning many things about paints. We bought the top of the line paint from Home Depot to paint a 114 year old house in Maine, the paint is not holding as it claimed. In the interior we are using the Aura from Benjamin Moore, so happy with it
So glad you found a product that works for you! We're glad to help!
Yeah I used Home Depot paint myself and it was horrible so I switch to aura myself and I never looked back
Yep Behr paint sucks. Let's see what's wrong with it. It can't deal with bathroom cleaners not even in satin it will discolor fairly easily. It's not very scuff resistant even in semi-gloss on the trim. The ceiling paint they make is not flat enough. The Behr outdoor paint even in semi-gloss easily grows mildew and stains easily. If you can't tell I have used a lot of Behr products.
Just out of curiosity, which product to you end up finding success with?
@@thepaintpeople Benjamin Moore waterborne ceiling paint dead flat. Benjamin Moore regal select. I'm going to try Benjamin Moore Aura next. I also want to try cabinet coat for trim.
I also don't like PPG timeless it almost looks like plastic.
Other reviewers both pros and dyi claim SW satin has a rough finish like flat paint. Anyone else find that result?
Great video. Would you recommend spraying few coats of water based polyurethane on top as final coats for better protection?
I use it all the time and it cures totally in about 30.days..
30 DAYS???? "Ain't nobody got time for that"
Yeah and make sure to not touch the surface for a long time either cause it’s gonna scratch and mar like butter...
It’s hard after 7 days. I love it!
What are your thoughts for using this on a table top? Not sure this was a good choice, but I had the paint left over from a cabinet remodel. I sanded the table, then applied 2 coats of Bin Shelac based Primer, sanding between cots. Then applied 3 coats of the Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel, again lightly sanding between coats. I applied the paint with a Fuji Mini Mite 4 HVLP sprayer. This is where I think I might be going down a bad path. To get it to spray decent I thinned it as follows: Paint 62%. Floetrol 20%, Water 17%. Now I am doubting whether this was a good idea.
Great for tables. No reduction needed. Airless sprayer with a fine finish tip. It’s a urethane so it takes a bit longer to current to maximum hardness, about 20 days. Cheers.
I just walked out of my local SW dealer and he recommended this product...Also said i would not need a primer going over some oak, polyeurathane finished cabinets. Anyone confirm this. Would be a game changer is so. I have a huge kitchen to do.
Can I really use this directly over oil paint? I have almost a full gallon left over from professional painters at my house. I want to paint my laundry room cabinets myself but they were previously painted with oil based paint. SW employees said I could use it over oil with no primer, but the SW 800 number said you must use a primer with this before painting over oil. I’m confused.
Do I have to sand the trim before spraying? The trim already has existing paint. And the trim is in good condition. Thanks
Try Dulux floor polyurethane enamel on trimIt is water based and durable.
Okay. I have a HUGE project to do. Can I use this on furniture? Am I supposed to use a primer paint before? And do you seal this with a wax? I’m so new to this. Please help! TIA
We had our kids’ bedrooms painted with this and the smell will not go away! Does that mean they should not be in the room until it dissipates completely? Never had this problem before.
If you were going to spray this would you recommend a hvlp sprayer or airless?
Airless with a fine finish tip, sprays great.
I've been in the process of remodeling my garage. It's coming up on 60 yrs of age and it showed. I've done my best with drywall repair, new window, spray foam insulation around doors, and 3 coats of kilz primer on the walls. This will be a functional workspace when finished, wood working projects, auto maintenance, etc. With SW having a 30% off sale this weekend would you recommend this for wall paint over anything else? Thanks.
All the major brands are having a big sale in the month of September. Can't go wrong with SW.
I contacted the company because it doesn’t say on the can, but it takes 30 days to cure.
Well, I made my decision on a paint color for my kitchen cabinets and I chose to go with the Emerald. I get to my local Sherwin Williams and they say "We can Only do very light shades of Green if you want a Satin finish." Umm, No..I searched for months on my exact color of Green in satin finish and They Can't do it. Ridiculous!! Now I have no choice but to drive 40 minutes to my closest Ace Hardware for the Number One Choice Benjamin Moores Advance..because I CAN GET ANY COLOR & FINISH I WANT 😊
We do what we have to do!
@@thepaintpeople Exactly 😊
This is good paint but Kelly Moore has an eurathane trim enamel that dries much harder when it cures it is way more durable. I own a painting company and have used many gallons of both products. Sherwin told me have addrothe issues of it not being hard enough
Thanks for sharing your experience Micheal!
Hey folks... A quick couple of questions. I am using the Emerald product on two sets of bedroom furniture, both are stained with a top coat.....
1. Any recommendations on the need or suggestion of a primer?
2. I will be spraying this. I spray anything I can!!! Can this product be sprayed through an HVLP automobile type sprayer w/ compressor. I also have a graco truecoat pro 2 handheld or a commercial grade graco 5 gallon sprayer... I prefer the handheld units. So suggestions on which tip to use?
3. Does this spray like a latex paint, oil, or urethane top coat? That would narrow my issues down quickly!!!
Thank you in advance, Wes
Amazing paint
Glad you like! :)
I started my project and need more in a deep base. Waiting almost a year and they still don’t have it. I liked the results but going to have to use and re do with another product. I can’t wait forever. I was thinking BM Advancc might be comparable or is there anything else? Kind of disappointing I can’t get this product when I debated the price and went for it to just get burned.
Looking to redo cabinets and this is highly recommended. Only issue is pretty scarce to get right now. What’s a comparable BM or Behr line? Semi gloss
Benjamin Moore Advance!
I really like the look of low sheen. If I use the satin will it still clean as well as semi-gloss? What should I use for Primer over old 1950's wood stained doors? Thanks
I have used this on cabinets, with a 1/4" roller and "GOOD" brush, and it is awesome! For the primer? Old cabinets in my customer's 1998 mobile home, after using TSP for cleaning, I used Zinsser's B.I.N. Shelac primer. Sticks to everything and seals everything. Customer bought new "Diamond" cabinets to replace the lower cabinets and build a new island. I painted the old uppers with this paint (In a Satin finish) and can't tell the difference between the old an new.
I have a gallon of this stuff and plan to paint a bathroom vanity with it. Should i put a polyurathane top coat on it?
@thepaintpeople
Our painters typically use urethane semi gloss for all trim. Would the urethane semi gloss be comparable to a regular satin finish? I like the satin finish more, but I’ve heard different things about the urethane semi gloss in satin being too dull?? I need help!!
Hi Bailie, the semi gloss is shinier than satin.
I'm disappointed in how gritty the High Hide White Urethane satin feels after it's been sprayed on. When I mentioned this to the manager at the SW store, I could tell he thought I was imagining it. It's a very disappointing product. I haven't used the semi-gloss yet, but I'm looking forward to trying it someday and seeing if it's any better (even though I prefer the look of a satin).
I purchased to paint my hitched cabinets. I am rolling and brushing the bases and will spray the drawers and doors. I am finding this VERY difficult to work with. Haven’t tested in sprayer yet.
You need a latex extender like M-1 to brush and roll. I dilute it about 10%, still with limited working time. It is my favorite spraying finish product on the market.
Which brush type works best to paint cabinets with this paint streaks
Brush the cabinets??? No
Cut what is necessary and immediately roll it as close as possible with a 4inch 3/16 mohair small roller or either a foam roller, if doing it by hand. Have a spare board or peice of sheet rock to roll the roller on first till its not so heavy in the roller until you get practice being able to spread it on. The last thing you want to do is load up your little roller and not have enough room on the cabinets to spread it to where its not too much if you want a decent finish.
I have used it...good paint....dry time drove me crazy......Question: Of all the Sherwin -Williams paints...which acrylic would be the best and most durable for cabinets ?
what was the dry time on it?
@@K_njie Emerald Urathane on cabinet doors with roller: about 3 to 4 hours to dry on a hot sunny day. When I paint Behr Dynasty..I can do the second coat in 10 to 15 minutes. Almost dries too fast.
Thanks for the answer. anothr question, what is similar or close to SW emerald urathane? I'm about to use Behr Marquee for my kitchen cabinets.
@@K_njie I used the Behr Marquee for about the past 8 years. I just switched last year to the Behr Dynasty because it is a step up from Marquee. It does dry pretty fast. The Emerald Urathayne is more durable...but the Dynasty and Marqee are durable enough. Urathayne to me is like a combination of acrylic and oil base paint. Behr is all acrylic.
does behr have a similar product to SW Emerald Urathane?
Can this be used on a dresser or nightstand? I really love the color Greek Villa but I’m so confused on if I can use SW on certain furniture pieces or what primer/top coat can go with Emerald enamel.
Yes you can! Stix is my go to primer if I'm not sure what kind of surface I'm dealing with but there are others, and for a top coat, most people use a water-based polyurethane.
I’m a sw fan but fell in love with Ben advanced. How does this compare?
I have more experience with Benjamin Moore Advanced and it is great on Cabinets, very wipeable, which a lot of people love.
Would this be overkill for something like crown molding?
It's largely up to you. If it's a product you love to work with, why not? The only things are: it only comes in shinier finishes, and you won't need the added durability/washability when it's a surface all the way up your wall! haha
Can't be thinned and can only be sprayed with airless sprayer.
Sprayed it multiple times with a turbine HVLP and thinned it every time.
Thanks Jimmy. I was just going by the directions on the can. It's good to know you can thin and spray with HVLP. I'll give it a shot.
Thin down with water?
i was sold this paint to use on the body of my brick house. Is this appropriate paint
Can this be sprayed with an hvlp sprayer?
Can you use it on countertops?
What’s your preference? This paint or go with Benjamin more advance in Tricorn black?
Hard to say but I've had more experience with Tricorn Black.
I’m trying to avoid finger prints on the black. Does this paint accomplish this without effecting paint
Can we use on top of 2k urethane?
When painting wood furniture is it best to use a brush or roller with this paint?
roller
Hello 👋 I just commented on another video asking the same question 😂 Can you use this paint over Kilz oil primer?
Absolutely!
Can this be used over a water-based primer?
Can this paint be used to paint furniture?
Can you air spray both the recommended primer and this SW Urethane paint? I have an airless Titan spray painter. If so, what tip should I use? Thx
You can’t go wrong with the 310 for doors & trim
I am painting a mural on a shipping crate 40ft x 9 ft. Would this paint be the right choice?
If there's no paint on it already, no. If it's just the bare metal I'd recommend a product called DTM, or direct to metal paint. It's more of an industrial product so it only comes in gallons or 5 gals and if your not going to need that much you might need something else like all surface enamel with a primer like kem kromic. I've only been mentioning Sherwin Williams products as well, there are others that would work.
I bought an Unfinished Pine Interior Door Slab from Home Depot. It seems to have no discernible knotty. Can you recommend the best primer and paint? I prefer water-based products for low VOC. Thanks
I would recommend Fresh Start primer from Benjamin Moore and for the top-coat I would go with Advance or Scuff-X.
@@thepaintpeople Thanks for the recommendation. Check with my local bm store and they don't carry the Advance/Scuff-x. Do you have any recommendation on similar products from Sherwin? Thanks
Go with the Multi-purpose primer and Emerald urethane. Great products!!!
@@thepaintpeople Cool. So to work with Emerald urethane, the primer should be water-based or oil-based?
You can use the Water based primer first then apply the Emerald Urethane or even the Pro Classic. If you wanted a 100% water based top coat then use the the Standard Emerald line or the Duration line from SW.
Emerald is crap I been painting for a long time I've used everything emerald stays soft for about a week before it starts getting hard that's y I switched to pro classic
You ever looked at the labels on pro classic and emerald side by side 🤔
...please educate yourself on coating science before making such ridiculous and misleading statements...
According to several websites and painters, it’s suppose to dry in 4 hours and cure faster. You didn’t fine that to be true huh?
@@antedwards05 it's drys in about 4 hours but it stays soft for about a week
@@antedwards05 I find pro classic is a lot better that's what I use on my cabinets and trim now and it's a lot better price
I absolutely love this paint, however, my painters did not cover my new tile floor and they dripped the paint on the tile and the floor is ruined. I can't get this paint off the floor.
And you won’t unfortunately. Will have to regrout
Try hand sanitizer! I got paint off our tile floor with it.
What do you feel is the best cabinet paint? As far as self leveling, open time, and hardness/durability? What’s the holy grail? I haven’t tried breakthrough yet, because of the formula change.
BM Advanced
I only use the SW Emerald urethane Cabinets, trim and baseboards, great results every time. My customers love the results.
I only use emerald now also. Alot of people won't try other products and just swear what they use is best. Plenty of people that used lacquers have switched to emerald. It is a great product
emerald vs benjamin moore advance . Which one for cabinets? I am thinking i will spray with an airless and fine tip
Both are great products. Emerald Urethane will dry faster and Advance has better self leveling properties. It's a tough choice but I would lean towards Advance. Cheers!
Emerald urethane is also a self-leveling paint. Sw employee.
100% its self leveling. Fantastic product!
Much better and more affordable is the Sherwin Williams "Pro Industrial" Urethane and it dries faster than the Emerald.
I’m using this paint in “Uncertain Gray” on my kitchen cabinets, what color do you recommend for the walls 🤔 🙏
Rock candy 👍🏻
Does this paint yellow over time?
Yes it will but not much to notice over time. You won’t be able to touch up though after a year or so.
Can I or should I spray lacquer after I’m done painting with emerald please let me know ?
I think you are talking about a clear varnish. Nope, not necessary.
Really I don’t understand. lacquer and emerald are two deferent coatings. I’m guessing that maybe you have a dark color island probably a green which is popular now and want to use lacquer to finish the woodwork. Emerald has a horrible cure time and I would switch to Benjamin Moore command paint.
Can this paint over heavy stained somewhat shined stain on kitchen cabinets?
Yes, use a stain covering primer and 2 coats of emarald.
That dry time thing iswhat Ive been sweating. Sherwin is hassling me to try it. My pro classic price for the whole job. Im considering it.
Have you sent it through the airless?
If so.. tip size and thoughts?
Thanks for this review
I switched from pro classic to emerald urethane. Much better. Sprays great in my 440. Just picked up an hvlp to start using on cabinets
Pro classic is junk. There are many better enamels out there. Emerald may work but the second you get a dark color good luck. Try bm command. If spraying use a 310 or a 308 tip for dark colors.
@@mattbradley2603
Question of the day. What's not junk these days?
Paint has only gotten worse in the 38 years I have been doing it. God forbid you want an actual bright white trim paint. The only one I know of is ppg advantage 900 interior exterior.
Far as the Emerald enamel goes I'm partially into the job. I pre sprayed a stack of baseboards with a 310 ff in the airless. Worked very nice. Doors and casings installed and those are all brushed and look solid. I also cut and rolled 6 bathroom ceilings with the Emerald. So far looks good and it just took some is unnecessary roughness. The electrician mounted all of the fartfans proud of the drywall and somehow there is no way to access how he mounted them (tight building brought back from the dead over 120 years old) so I had to grind away portions of the housing and the ribbing on the plastic slip over cover.. sparks flyin everywhere and when I was done the blackness brushed off with a dustbrush.
Main complaint about the paint in this thread... it aint true white. None of sherwin Williams paints are.
It does appear to be true semi gloss though. I have Emerald satin on the bath walls and Matte Emerald in the rest of the common areas. It all works out.
Do not use latex paint on your cabinets...
Use colored lacquer
Nah, Use Pigmented Epoxy!
Daleon... lacquer is garbage. Can't brush or roll it. Can't touch it up. Brittle. Ambers. Ketchup will mar it. Almost all paints are a better option.
How does this compare to the lowes version?
It's the same I believe?
This product vs valspar cabinet enamel? Ive seen a bunch of people ooh and ah over the Benjamin Moore paint...but locally I have a lowes, PPG amd Sherwin Williams...
Where are you located? We will look into the Valspar Cabinet Enamel.
I did a "stick test" with Valspar Cab Paint .... seems to dry pretty hard , not bad ..... I've been using Emerald on some cabs and liking it , definitely levels out well .... advance sucks , hard to use , slow recoat time , might as well use oil , gets tacky fast , I think Emerald is better ..... I have not painted with Valspar Cab Paint , just did a stick test ..... dried pretty hard , not bad , but I have not used it
Which primer do you recommend to go with this paint for kitchen cabinets?
Go with the Extreme Bond Primer from Sherwin Williams.
Thanks. Compare to Benjamin Moore Advance, which one is better for painting kitchen cabinets? I'm not a professional painter, just a DIYer.
I would use the Advance
@Small Business Defense wrong. Extreme bond is an alkyd primer.
@@lin-bf3we EMERALD !!!!!!
Do you out a top coat on this paint for cabinets?
Not necessary. Emerald Urethane is all you need.
Thanks so much for this info! It’s super helpful. We’re currently doing kitchen renovations and are painting in 2 days! Yay. With the typical oil based paints used for cabinets, we planned on moving out while they paint BUT when I spoke with Sherwin William’s they said this paint would be more tolerable for still living in the home. You mentioned however that the smell is different and not really enjoyable. Would you live in your home for 6 days while they paint or get a hotel? Your advice is greatly appreciate.
It really depends on your personal tolerance, I'd say. The fumes won't be harmful, and will only smell in the immediate areas that are being painted, while it's drying. Keep the windows open where you can!
I lived in my house after painting my entire kitchen with SW Emerald privilege green, and only could smell it slightly when I went into the kitchen first thing in the AM. My wife never could smell anything, so I wouldn't worry about any smell. Besides........play doh really isn't a bad smell lol.
@@jimb3457 do you mind telling me how the paint has held up? Afraid to do all this work only to have chipped cabinets in a year.
@@dawnd7332 It remains rather soft at first so be careful. After about 3 weeks, it turns rock hard and gets harder as it ages. If you do have to touch up, and you have applied the paint with a brush and roller, it touches up easily and leaves no mark. Scroll down to Penut's comment and you will find comments by me explaining exactly how to apply this paint. If you follow my directions, you will be very pleased with the results. I painted my wife's entire kitchen two coats with a quart and a half of paint. If you need any more help, feel free to email me. Many pros hate this paint because it is very thin and will run on vertical surfaces if not applied properly.
@@jimb3457 I’d like to see what you’re recommendations are, but I can’t seem to find your explanation on how to apply this paint anywhere in these comments. I’m going to paint wood trim and cabinets. I have a cheap ($30) Krause & Beck airless sprayer from Harbor Freight, I’m hoping I’ll be able to use it with the SW emerald ute.
Can you use on cabinets that are not solid wood?
Yes! Use the extreme bond primer by Sherwin Williams first.
Thank you!
Can you distress cabinets with the Emerald?
It can be done, yes.
Can you tell me the name of the purple paint in the background? Please
It's actually gray owl illuminated with purple lighting! haha
How can you cut it to spray with ?
No need to thin it with airless gun.
Can I use a Wagner paint sprayer to apply this?
Absolutely!
@@thepaintpeople thank you! Can you recommend a model home depot may carry please?
Please, compare it with BM advance, that’s all we want to know….
Here's my review of Advance so you can compare John: ruclips.net/video/m5pNUWP3APA/видео.html
Can this paint be thinned with water for spraying?
Use water or Flotrol.
dont thinned
I have this paint in tricorn black on my doors and they are chipping! This paint was over $200 for this project and I'm so upset.
Sorry to hear that Shada. By chance, was this painted overtop another paint? Did you use a primer?
@@thepaintpeople it was painted on factory white doors that I sanded and primed
Do you need to sand between coats of this paint? My project started with bare poplar and birch plywood. I first primed with 3 coats of SW wood primer (sanding all 3 coats), So far I've done 1 top coat of emerald, but will do at least one more top coat of emerald.
Please update your experience with this product I have a similar project in mind.
@@soldier4christsoldier4chri90
I ended up having to build my bench cabinet in place due to my small area, which meant I had to attach from the front side of the cabinet. Because I had already primed the boards twice before installation with the wood primer from SW, I essentially had to prime it again to cover the minwax wood filler I used to cover my bolt holes (great stuff btw).
Then, it took only 2 coats of the enamel paint with a 6" roller with 1/4" nap to get the nice coverage and finish. I dry brushed each coat with a 2" nylon bristle brush after rolling to get a smoother texture. Totally happy with the results.
Not even close to oil based paints... In fact. It feels like a watered down acrylic paint with some glue as the hardener. In fact. I'd bet that's exactly what it is. It is the pinnacle of Super Ultra Premium!!!
Pros and cons to oil. Nice to have options!
Can you paint over oil base with it?
Technically yes, but I would at least clean and buff the surface to help with adhesion. Also, go with the semi-gloss over satin.
Don't paint over an oil base with it, it will fail. SW employee here.
@@norsemendanes9622 Also an SW employee. I've always been told that it could go over water or oil-based paints. What causes Emerald Urethane to be problematic when used over an oil-based paint?
@@morganharney409 it says it "can" but I sold 10 gals to a contractor and he went over oil based on some cabinets and it failed terribly it was cracking and peeling within 1 week and we had to refund and give him all new paint, and all of it was ASE oil hand tinted with the BAC 🤦♂️
No