As someone that has never used a paint gun, this was so helpful! I’m getting ready to paint my kitchen with SW Emerald Urethane and this was excellent info.
As a retired, professional kitchen remodeler, (IMHO), I would caution anyone spraying, 'pre-stained' oak cabinets, not to spray with water-based primers, they will eventually allow the tanins to bleed through & yellow. Use an alkyd-based primer like Zinsser BIN or something similar... Using Sherwin-Williams Emerald urethane paint is a most excellent choice for a top coat!
great video with discussion of HVLP use and +/- of differing manufacturers. I've had exceptional results using a Fuji with a turbine spray engine. Really good information. Thanks.
I’m getting ready to spray a project and the whole HVLP has been a scary experience to jump into. I know that I will eventually need that Fuji system in the $599-$1,299 range. But I would rather start slow and work my way up. The fact that you broke everything down so simply and the current price for the gun you use is $139/Amazon and you get several, etc. this makes my learning curve so much easier. I was thinking ok measure to thin, and your 2-3 second drip test makes sense. I’m literally going to copy step by step and practice spraying my primer. Then work my way up to the actual urethane paint. You just saved me lots of headaches and gave me confidence in what to use. Once you mentioned Katz-Moss I was sold because I do wood working and now I can use similar process for shooting clear, etc. Great video and informative. I don’t know if your Sherwin Williams Rep has sponsored this video. But they should at least give you a couple gallons for this tutorial. I will be sure to go to my local store and buy the Emerald now when I’m ready just because of your video. You have my permission for firearm my comments to them as well. Thanks again for simplifying this!
Thank you so much for your comment! I'm truly not here to get famous; I love learning and then teaching what I've learned. Trust me when I say that I understand your anxiety getting in to HVLP. I held off for over a year and was painting by brush and roller. It tooke me a couple weeks to really get spraying down but once I did I was kicking myself for not doing it sooner. One thing I didn't mention in the video is to use your prime coat to get everything perfect. Fill, sand, prime. Then, refill and sand again (maybe even prime again if needed). Sand really good and make sure everything is as a baby's but before painting and when you paint it will come out BEAUTIFUL
Using the same paint. So far, I tried an old airless electric sprayer (Wagner Series 200, ~1500 psi, noisy rattler), but it only streamed out without thinning, and also had trouble w/ drips off the nozzle (even after replacing the outlet check valve). An electric air-turbine spray gun ($35 Amazon) worked fairly well though slightly lumpy on large flat areas like cabinet doors (horizontal). I tried another pass on them w/ a small roller and foam brush, but even worse, leaving brush marks. Sanded down and tried a similar HVLP gun as the video (Harbor Freight) w/ 70 psig compressed air and ~10% thinning. It gave a smooth finish, but very low volume flow, akin to a rattle-can spray. OK for cabinet fronts (~2" wide boards took ~4 passes for 50% overlap), but too tedious for large areas. Tried again w/ a bit more thinning and a little better. Heating the paint first in a glass jar in the microwave ~1 min helps it flow better. I like your simple test for checking how much to thin. Agree on the need to get it wet for it to level. My cabinets were uninstalled, so could spray all surfaces horizontal, though I got so little volume that runs weren't an issue. On large side panels, I resorted to a roller since the HVLP sprayer would take too long. This paint is interesting in that when you get it on your hands, it doesn't just wash off with water but is tenacious, requiring rubbing with a scrubber, even if you clean it right away.
This was very helpful. Just a suggestion for mixing the water and paint, try a kitchen wire whisk instead of the thin stick. I’m going to get a cheap cabinet from Habitat For Humanity Restore to practice on before doing my kitchen cabinets.
I have used this product in the past. Had trouble getting a smooth to the touch finish. Others have reported the same problem. BM Advance has worked better for me. Thinking of trying Renner.
Bought this paint in semi-gloss off-white so researching best application. Most Paint forums say not to use an HVLP air gun, just an airless gun (Graco $$$$) or "roll & tip". I first tried an old Wagner Series 200 airless electric gun (rattler), but the paint just streamed (smallest 0.4 mmD nozzle). I switched to a $35 Chinese electric fan-gun which I had used for the S-W Extreme Bond Primer. It atomized fine and little overspray or loss of paint. I did get orange-peel in places where sprayed too thick. I thought more paint would help it self-level, but didn't, probably because it dries fast and an air-sprayer speeds that. I'll sand those panels and try a 4.5" Wooster Red Feather Velour roller since those are flat with no features. Once I got the method down (low volume, repeated passes), result was a flat satin-like surface, which looks shiny at an angle. I'll see if it wet-sanded w/ 2000 grit like auto paints (too gummy?). I have a Harbor Freight HVLP gun like this video, so might try that on the next pass (more cabinets to paint).
Rent the airless sprayer and even the hoses, but buy the pistol. Not as expensive as you imagine. You don’t want broken malfunction tools. Get someone’s garage and prep for clean room status. Use flotrol in the water based finish, and lay your work out flat for the spray. You and a helper get suited up, with respirators. Go!
That's LVLP/LVHP, it would be best to have air feed to push the paint down the gun, gravity alone doesn't help so thinning is required. I gave up using those types of cheap guns (for that particular thick paint), I got a Graco Ultra with fine tips, amazing results, no thinning, so much faster, less paint dust. Maybe a 2.5mm tip would work on those guns without thinning. Don't thin paint if painting MDF, even with the best primer.
Thanks for the great video! Very informative! I bought a Graco airless to paint kitchen cabinets with and it’s absolutely horrible! I just bought an hvlp and hopefully I’ll get a good finish.
I have used Emerald Urethane for a long time. It’s good for trim not for cabinets and furniture. Try the exterior version of Duration or better yet the new Gallery Series Sherwin Williams has.
I've been hearing Gallery a lot lately. I don't want the trouble of 2k paints for what I make (not cabinets) so perhaps my next trip to SW I'll pick up a can
Excellent informative video. Please let us know which model of TCP spray gun you are using and what tip sizes for the primer, and the urethane paint. Thanks!
Chris, you make it look effortles; I've been knocking my head against the wall trying to get my Fuji MiniMite4/T75G to spray EUTE. I have thinned the paint in stages and check for sprayability of EUTE. I have thinned it down to a viscosity or 30 sec's Ford cup with a 2.0mm down to a 1.4mm air cap. I called fuji and they said I have over-thinned the mix and need to bring it back to a 50 sec ford cup time, then shoot it with a 1.8mm tip and it will shoot; NOPE it still spit like every thing else I tried. So I give up, my buddy has a compresor hvlp setup like yours and we will attempt to spray the paint thinned to 5%, bring his pressure up to 45psi and spray it thru a 1.8 tip. I'm hoping you are right
So we sprayed the Emerald tonight with mixed results. My buddy has a compressor HVLP system but only had a 2.5mm needle. He Initially tried to spray it undiluted - it would not flow, so we thinned a 1/2 Quart with 1.6 oz of water, stirred it up real well and at 45 PSI would not flow so he brought the air pressure up to 100 PSI. It sprayed with a lot of overspray but the first coat is on. You mentioned you only thinned 5% (1.6 oz per quart?) and it would not flow at 45 PSI. What is wrong with this picture? Did you leave anything out?
@tedd1091 hmmm. Something is off. A 2.5 tip is way big. I don't thin except in the winter when my shop is in the 40s. Even if you were shooting tricorn black a 2.5 would be overkill. 100psi is no bueno but it does lead me down a path... Try these... 1. Make sure the thumbscrew at the bottom of the gun near the air fitting is almost all the way open. Like electricity, this controls the "amperage" or the amount of air. The air pressure is the "voltage". Male sure thats all the way open if your air is already regulated at the gun or output of the compressor. 2. Make sure you open your paint flow control about 1/4". A good indicator is that with the air disconnected, pulling the trigger should allow paint to drip out the nozzle. 3. Check the strainer. I don't use them, I filter the paint with cheap filter funnels and bypass the strainer. A semi-clogged strainer will really restrict paint flow. 4. The trigger is either on or off. Don't try to control flow by pulling the trigger less than fully engaged...use the other settings for that. At 100psi was the gun "spitting"? If so, you've got an air leak.
Thank you for this! I've had so much anxiety about spraying Emerald urethane because SW will not give any guidance on thinning. After reading the $700 cordless airless sprayers are failing after a few uses, I've been frustratingly hand painting everything. You stated in a comment below that you aren't thinning at all with the temp being 85° in the summer. What was the temp like in February when you made this video? I'm mixing/storing paint in a 75° conditioned space but spray in an 80°-90° unconditioned space. Just wondering if keeping my Emerald cans in the heat would be better and give me one less thing to clean.
Spraying is not difficult and when done correctly leaves a surface that can never be duplicated rolled or brushed. Buy extra paint and practice spraying so you don't ruined what you want to paint. I have thinned the SW paint but unless its white water will change the color...make it lighter so if this is a consideration keep this in mind. I have sprayed many quarts of SW Emerald urethane un-thinned with a $100 HomeRight HVLP, if you want to spend a little more get the Graco TrueCoat sprayer. You need to play with any sprayer and practice using all settings until you find what works best. I use water first to set it up then make adjustments for the paint as SW urethane is much thicker but water helps you get to final settings quicker.
Why wouldn’t you just use a Ford Cup with the correct size hole for your spray tip to check the thinness of your paint? That’s how you’re supposed to check oil based paints, so it should work for water based paints as well.
Newbie here…..used my gun to spray a custom cat litter box the wife wanted…I ended up with many small dry bits of paint spatter not a smooth surface. The wood was prepped and primed with several coats. Too much pressure?
@@TheWebbRanch Got it. I only have one, an X7, for home projects and it’s serviceable, but I guess it wouldn’t be practical for pro level work. It did great applying that Sherwin Williams Emerald paint on my cabinets thou.
@jamUSA24 these worked pretty well to for a time but it wasn't long before the pumps had to be replaced and the design on the cordless ones makes them impossible to get fully clean
@@sayinwat6768 you make a great point. My HVLPs are so easy to clean, I kid you not, I've gone "oh I need to clean my gun" only to realize I already did.
Gun looked far away, I'd spray it from 6 inches myself but you have to be good. Im a professional house painter now. But I was painting cars last year.. spraying far away helps if your slow & get runs. Thanks for the video though.
How durable will this be. ❓ I always thought cabinets were painted with 2k products. I was at an automotive paint store and a cabinet guy was using automotive paint. I saw his samples and they were flawless and durable.
Sherwin Wiliams Emerald Trim is extremely durable as evidenced by how hard it is to sand it. It also cleans up very well. With that said, I do believe 2k product to be superior for cabinetry as cabinets get handled A LOT
@@TheWebbRanch I plan on spraying mine. As hard as my wife is on things I need something that an hvlp will spray and be 2k durable. Probably an epoxy, any suggestions.
@@TheWebbRanchit sprays smooth. The cure time is ridiculous. I've many posts on forums where it breaks down from hand oils and peeling from water damage
@@TruthSeeker1988 so strange. I read my can and it stated a 1.3-1.7 tip. Luckily I had a 1.5. Sprayed beautifully out of my 50 dollar buendio amazon sprayer. I did thin it down a tad. The stuff is thick
@brysonutsler7810 it is thick. You know I've never read the can lol. I had then print the data sheet for me. I'll have to take a look at the can. Either way it sprays nice for me in the summer out of 1.8.
If it's already primed then you probably just need to give it a really light sand and spray it. To make your life easier you might want to spray the pain first before installing
I don't believe this is HVLP (?)... HVLP is defined as 10 PSI. From what I've found you are using "conventional" or "conversion"? This is part of my confusion when I first watched this video a long time ago when I was struggling. You have way more than 10 PSI, correct? I think your video says over 40 PSI.
Conversion is correct. 10psi is the target cap pressure (reduced internally from the inlet). I run 45 into the gun amd adjust to the finish on the other end. It is still considered HVLP.
Looked like an oz at least.. Please measure next time, a guess isnt helping most people. Going up to 10% May just reduce the sheen some. The hotter it is the more water it will be able to handle. I hate these thick paints.
Tritech is by far the best brand. It's spendy, but if you're painting cabinets professionally, it's worth every penny. The 25' smaller dia hose is great for smaller batches of paint. The next best option is the Apollo turbine units. Less overspray than hvlp and it will allow you to paint with small batches of catalyzed paint without waste. In a perfect world you would buy both and it would cover everything you need for painting/ finishing. 🤙🏻
![NLE Choppa - Or What ft. 41 (Orchestra Mix) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/biOFASEgSOM/mqdefault.jpg)
As someone that has never used a paint gun, this was so helpful! I’m getting ready to paint my kitchen with SW Emerald Urethane and this was excellent info.
As a retired, professional kitchen remodeler, (IMHO), I would caution anyone spraying, 'pre-stained' oak cabinets, not to spray with water-based primers, they will eventually allow the tanins to bleed through & yellow. Use an alkyd-based primer like Zinsser BIN or something similar... Using Sherwin-Williams Emerald urethane paint is a most excellent choice for a top coat!
Thanks for showing how to thin out the paint and what to look for ! It sure helped alot
Sure thing! Thanks for the support!
great video with discussion of HVLP use and +/- of differing manufacturers. I've had exceptional results using a Fuji with a turbine spray engine. Really good information. Thanks.
I’m getting ready to spray a project and the whole HVLP has been a scary experience to jump into. I know that I will eventually need that Fuji system in the $599-$1,299 range. But I would rather start slow and work my way up. The fact that you broke everything down so simply and the current price for the gun you use is $139/Amazon and you get several, etc. this makes my learning curve so much easier. I was thinking ok measure to thin, and your 2-3 second drip test makes sense. I’m literally going to copy step by step and practice spraying my primer. Then work my way up to the actual urethane paint. You just saved me lots of headaches and gave me confidence in what to use. Once you mentioned Katz-Moss I was sold because I do wood working and now I can use similar process for shooting clear, etc. Great video and informative. I don’t know if your Sherwin Williams Rep has sponsored this video. But they should at least give you a couple gallons for this tutorial. I will be sure to go to my local store and buy the Emerald now when I’m ready just because of your video. You have my permission for firearm my comments to them as well. Thanks again for simplifying this!
Thank you so much for your comment! I'm truly not here to get famous; I love learning and then teaching what I've learned. Trust me when I say that I understand your anxiety getting in to HVLP. I held off for over a year and was painting by brush and roller. It tooke me a couple weeks to really get spraying down but once I did I was kicking myself for not doing it sooner. One thing I didn't mention in the video is to use your prime coat to get everything perfect. Fill, sand, prime. Then, refill and sand again (maybe even prime again if needed). Sand really good and make sure everything is as a baby's but before painting and when you paint it will come out BEAUTIFUL
Using the same paint. So far, I tried an old airless electric sprayer (Wagner Series 200, ~1500 psi, noisy rattler), but it only streamed out without thinning, and also had trouble w/ drips off the nozzle (even after replacing the outlet check valve). An electric air-turbine spray gun ($35 Amazon) worked fairly well though slightly lumpy on large flat areas like cabinet doors (horizontal). I tried another pass on them w/ a small roller and foam brush, but even worse, leaving brush marks. Sanded down and tried a similar HVLP gun as the video (Harbor Freight) w/ 70 psig compressed air and ~10% thinning. It gave a smooth finish, but very low volume flow, akin to a rattle-can spray. OK for cabinet fronts (~2" wide boards took ~4 passes for 50% overlap), but too tedious for large areas. Tried again w/ a bit more thinning and a little better. Heating the paint first in a glass jar in the microwave ~1 min helps it flow better.
I like your simple test for checking how much to thin. Agree on the need to get it wet for it to level. My cabinets were uninstalled, so could spray all surfaces horizontal, though I got so little volume that runs weren't an issue. On large side panels, I resorted to a roller since the HVLP sprayer would take too long. This paint is interesting in that when you get it on your hands, it doesn't just wash off with water but is tenacious, requiring rubbing with a scrubber, even if you clean it right away.
This was very helpful. Just a suggestion for mixing the water and paint, try a kitchen wire whisk instead of the thin stick. I’m going to get a cheap cabinet from Habitat For Humanity Restore to practice on before doing my kitchen cabinets.
I have used this product in the past. Had trouble getting a smooth to the touch finish. Others have reported the same problem. BM Advance has worked better for me. Thinking of trying Renner.
Were you getting specs all over?
Amazing tutorial. I've been a diy guy tinkering and no longer care for the Graco Handheld.
I have two. I wish I had that $1200 back :( thanks for the kind words!
Bought this paint in semi-gloss off-white so researching best application. Most Paint forums say not to use an HVLP air gun, just an airless gun (Graco $$$$) or "roll & tip". I first tried an old Wagner Series 200 airless electric gun (rattler), but the paint just streamed (smallest 0.4 mmD nozzle). I switched to a $35 Chinese electric fan-gun which I had used for the S-W Extreme Bond Primer.
It atomized fine and little overspray or loss of paint. I did get orange-peel in places where sprayed too thick. I thought more paint would help it self-level, but didn't, probably because it dries fast and an air-sprayer speeds that. I'll sand those panels and try a 4.5" Wooster Red Feather Velour roller since those are flat with no features. Once I got the method down (low volume, repeated passes), result was a flat satin-like surface, which looks shiny at an angle. I'll see if it wet-sanded w/ 2000 grit like auto paints (too gummy?). I have a Harbor Freight HVLP gun like this video, so might try that on the next pass (more cabinets to paint).
Rent the airless sprayer and even the hoses, but buy the pistol. Not as expensive as you imagine. You don’t want broken malfunction tools. Get someone’s garage and prep for clean room status. Use flotrol in the water based finish, and lay your work out flat for the spray. You and a helper get suited up, with respirators. Go!
That's LVLP/LVHP, it would be best to have air feed to push the paint down the gun, gravity alone doesn't help so thinning is required. I gave up using those types of cheap guns (for that particular thick paint), I got a Graco Ultra with fine tips, amazing results, no thinning, so much faster, less paint dust.
Maybe a 2.5mm tip would work on those guns without thinning.
Don't thin paint if painting MDF, even with the best primer.
It self levels amazingly
Thanks for the great video! Very informative! I bought a Graco airless to paint kitchen cabinets with and it’s absolutely horrible! I just bought an hvlp and hopefully I’ll get a good finish.
We have two and I agree. They are awful
Thanks for the info. Very informative. What temperature do you think that paint was at when you were doing the drip test?
I have used Emerald Urethane for a long time. It’s good for trim not for cabinets and furniture. Try the exterior version of Duration or better yet the new Gallery Series Sherwin Williams has.
I've been hearing Gallery a lot lately. I don't want the trouble of 2k paints for what I make (not cabinets) so perhaps my next trip to SW I'll pick up a can
thanks for video
Excellent informative video. Please let us know which model of TCP spray gun you are using and what tip sizes for the primer, and the urethane paint. Thanks!
Hello what psi are you running?? Great video thanks for the info
Chris, you make it look effortles; I've been knocking my head against the wall trying to get my Fuji MiniMite4/T75G to spray EUTE. I have thinned the paint in stages and check for sprayability of EUTE. I have thinned it down to a viscosity or 30 sec's Ford cup with a 2.0mm down to a 1.4mm air cap. I called fuji and they said I have over-thinned the mix and need to bring it back to a 50 sec ford cup time, then shoot it with a 1.8mm tip and it will shoot; NOPE it still spit like every thing else I tried. So I give up, my buddy has a compresor hvlp setup like yours and we will attempt to spray the paint thinned to 5%, bring his pressure up to 45psi and spray it thru a 1.8 tip. I'm hoping you are right
Well all I can say is that I literally do this all day lol
Thanks for the comment and I'm sure you'll have great luck!!
So we sprayed the Emerald tonight with mixed results. My buddy has a compressor HVLP system but only had a 2.5mm needle. He Initially tried to spray it undiluted - it would not flow, so we thinned a 1/2 Quart with 1.6 oz of water, stirred it up real well and at 45 PSI would not flow so he brought the air pressure up to 100 PSI. It sprayed with a lot of overspray but the first coat is on. You mentioned you only thinned 5% (1.6 oz per quart?) and it would not flow at 45 PSI. What is wrong with this picture? Did you leave anything out?
@tedd1091 hmmm. Something is off. A 2.5 tip is way big. I don't thin except in the winter when my shop is in the 40s. Even if you were shooting tricorn black a 2.5 would be overkill. 100psi is no bueno but it does lead me down a path...
Try these...
1. Make sure the thumbscrew at the bottom of the gun near the air fitting is almost all the way open. Like electricity, this controls the "amperage" or the amount of air. The air pressure is the "voltage". Male sure thats all the way open if your air is already regulated at the gun or output of the compressor.
2. Make sure you open your paint flow control about 1/4". A good indicator is that with the air disconnected, pulling the trigger should allow paint to drip out the nozzle.
3. Check the strainer. I don't use them, I filter the paint with cheap filter funnels and bypass the strainer. A semi-clogged strainer will really restrict paint flow.
4. The trigger is either on or off. Don't try to control flow by pulling the trigger less than fully engaged...use the other settings for that.
At 100psi was the gun "spitting"? If so, you've got an air leak.
Chris, what spray gun are you using?
Thank you for this! I've had so much anxiety about spraying Emerald urethane because SW will not give any guidance on thinning. After reading the $700 cordless airless sprayers are failing after a few uses, I've been frustratingly hand painting everything.
You stated in a comment below that you aren't thinning at all with the temp being 85° in the summer. What was the temp like in February when you made this video? I'm mixing/storing paint in a 75° conditioned space but spray in an 80°-90° unconditioned space. Just wondering if keeping my Emerald cans in the heat would be better and give me one less thing to clean.
In February we were in the high 40s to high 50s. You can do this! And you won't be sorry you did. This will make your life so much easier.
P.s. we have Two of those 700 guns and they are CRAP
Spraying is not difficult and when done correctly leaves a surface that can never be duplicated rolled or brushed. Buy extra paint and practice spraying so you don't ruined what you want to paint. I have thinned the SW paint but unless its white water will change the color...make it lighter so if this is a consideration keep this in mind. I have sprayed many quarts of SW Emerald urethane un-thinned with a $100 HomeRight HVLP, if you want to spend a little more get the Graco TrueCoat sprayer. You need to play with any sprayer and practice using all settings until you find what works best. I use water first to set it up then make adjustments for the paint as SW urethane is much thicker but water helps you get to final settings quicker.
Why wouldn’t you just use a Ford Cup with the correct size hole for your spray tip to check the thinness of your paint? That’s how you’re supposed to check oil based paints, so it should work for water based paints as well.
I have one but honestly this is faster and one less thing to clean
Newbie here…..used my gun to spray a custom cat litter box the wife wanted…I ended up with many small dry bits of paint spatter not a smooth surface. The wood was prepped and primed with several coats. Too much pressure?
Sounds like maybe you didn't spray a thick enough coat. What tip were you using?
Would XIM latex extender be better to use for a thinner as opposed to water?
The I've never tried it. Good ol' H2O seems to work fine.
Just use a Graco paint sprayer with one of their TrueAirless nozzle and you’re good to go. No thinning needed with that particular pint.
I have 3. I don't really care for them.
@@TheWebbRanch Got it. I only have one, an X7, for home projects and it’s serviceable, but I guess it wouldn’t be practical for pro level work. It did great applying that Sherwin Williams Emerald paint on my cabinets thou.
@jamUSA24 these worked pretty well to for a time but it wasn't long before the pumps had to be replaced and the design on the cordless ones makes them impossible to get fully clean
@@TheWebbRanch that’s what I figured. Good for the DYI, but not for pro level demands.
@@sayinwat6768 you make a great point. My HVLPs are so easy to clean, I kid you not, I've gone "oh I need to clean my gun" only to realize I already did.
Gun looked far away, I'd spray it from 6 inches myself but you have to be good. Im a professional house painter now. But I was painting cars last year.. spraying far away helps if your slow & get runs. Thanks for the video though.
How durable will this be. ❓ I always thought cabinets were painted with 2k products. I was at an automotive paint store and a cabinet guy was using automotive paint. I saw his samples and they were flawless and durable.
Sherwin Wiliams Emerald Trim is extremely durable as evidenced by how hard it is to sand it. It also cleans up very well. With that said, I do believe 2k product to be superior for cabinetry as cabinets get handled A LOT
@@TheWebbRanch I plan on spraying mine. As hard as my wife is on things I need something that an hvlp will spray and be 2k durable. Probably an epoxy, any suggestions.
@@TheWebbRanchit sprays smooth. The cure time is ridiculous. I've many posts on forums where it breaks down from hand oils and peeling from water damage
Would you have thinned the paint if you had a 2.0 tip? I have the 2.0 and am about to spray tomorrow
I'd only put like a ounce per 10 oz's. I sprayed with a 2.2 after thinning. Not good! lol
@@TruthSeeker1988 so strange. I read my can and it stated a 1.3-1.7 tip. Luckily I had a 1.5. Sprayed beautifully out of my 50 dollar buendio amazon sprayer. I did thin it down a tad. The stuff is thick
Not that it's hot here (over 85 in my shop) I don't have to thin it at all with the 1.8
*now
@brysonutsler7810 it is thick. You know I've never read the can lol. I had then print the data sheet for me. I'll have to take a look at the can. Either way it sprays nice for me in the summer out of 1.8.
I like to use equal parts thinner and water
Hmm. Sounds problematic. Do you have a video of doing this?
I'm finishing a basement room with primed MDF trim. I'm going to spray it white. What do you recommend for prep and paint?
If it's already primed then you probably just need to give it a really light sand and spray it. To make your life easier you might want to spray the pain first before installing
@@TheWebbRanch What do you recommend for filling nail holes, etc?
@quick65filly I use drydex but even joint compound will work in a pinch.
Do you sand in-between coats?
Yes. I generally sand with 220 on the primer and first paint coat. Nothing crazy, just a once over. Then 300 for the next two coats.
What gun nozzle size are you using for the Emerald?
I am shooting in this video with a 1.8 tip.
Have you tried a 2.0 tip??
Do you have a link for the TCL hplv sprayer?
Here you go amzn.to/3A4MIcW
I don't believe this is HVLP (?)... HVLP is defined as 10 PSI. From what I've found you are using "conventional" or "conversion"? This is part of my confusion when I first watched this video a long time ago when I was struggling.
You have way more than 10 PSI, correct? I think your video says over 40 PSI.
Conversion is correct. 10psi is the target cap pressure (reduced internally from the inlet). I run 45 into the gun amd adjust to the finish on the other end. It is still considered HVLP.
What is HVLP?
Hi volume, low pressure. This refers to the amount of air used in the spraying process.
Kliz is not good primer use something like Insl-x
Thompson Betty White Maria Robinson Scott
Looked like an oz at least.. Please measure next time, a guess isnt helping most people. Going up to 10% May just reduce the sheen some. The hotter it is the more water it will be able to handle. I hate these thick paints.
As a man who's poured tens of thousands of 1oz shots. That was not quite an Oz. It was more than half tho.
@@darrene.vonbraun4421 ok, would just be nice to know specifics.. it is hard to tell until you got a lot of experience
Use a airless and You'll Nut, yourself compared to hvlp! Straight jizzarouski!
Do you recommend one? I have two cordless gracos and one large scale Graco but I hate them all
Tritech is by far the best brand. It's spendy, but if you're painting cabinets professionally, it's worth every penny. The 25' smaller dia hose is great for smaller batches of paint. The next best option is the Apollo turbine units. Less overspray than hvlp and it will allow you to paint with small batches of catalyzed paint without waste. In a perfect world you would buy both and it would cover everything you need for painting/ finishing. 🤙🏻