Been watching your vids for a long time, very informative. Your techniques have been used by me for over 1 year, and my knives have never been as sharp as they are now. Even a Wakizashi and Tanto that I have stropped are razor sharp. Keep the information coming. And the bushcraft information, I have used on numerous trips to different island and camped in several jungles. Thanks for the sharing of information. And I now use your techniques for butchering deer after hunts.
@@Onedayilbeok It's an evolution of the Canadian belt knife, which was used to skin reindeer and moose. It has the moon shape which is great for slicing away layers of fat, but still has a tip for opening incisions. And since bark river is known for essentially "perfecting" designs, many think that the CS is the best all-round northern hemisphere knife.
Aurora... My love... I am happy to see you with an Aurora Sir. To me have been like "the end of the road". It is an "hard to beat design" (really comfortable, "ALL PURPOSE" design) and the 3V version is like "a knife from Mars" (if compared to the others "bushcraft knives" on the market -mostly made in "O1"-). It probably will grow up on you day after day; i hope you will enjoy it (like i do). Best wishes from Italy
My 3V Bravo1.5 has a thicker and angular handle than A2 Bravo1.5. I think the angular thick handle assures stable holding better when power cut is needed. Thanks.
I agree with you completely. I honestly would not carry a knife that thick and that large to skin a whitetail deer. Which is what we hunt here mostly. My grandfather used to go from gut to cape with a pocket knife so I realise that level of blade is all that is necessary. Though sharpness is still paramount. I find drop points useful in bushcraft. Drilling starters for bow drill or friction fire and carving applications are best suited for it in my practice.
I love BRKT, but I have to agree with you. The scandi-convex grind the bushcrafter comes with is "ridiculous". It is not very sharp. The Aurora was way sharper. I had to re-profile my bushcrafter to get it to an acceptable sharpness
If you sell Bark River Knives, how do I purchase one from you? I'm wondering if the extra length of the Bravo 1.25 may offset the Aurora when batoning logs. It seems like the wider blade of the Bravo 1.25 would split the wood more and require less effort than the Aurora.
I can respect that. I hate swages, so I totally understand. Thank you for your time. I've been watching your stuff and collecting for a long time now. It was nice to have a conversation with you directly. I appreciate it very much.
woulda been nice if you shared the names of the different models of knifes. im fairly certain they are all BR blades but have no idea which model is which
First is Bravo 1, second is Aurora, third is Canadian Special I think, fourth is Gunny Bravo I think, and the last is the Bravo 1.5 field. Those are my guesses at least :)
I think the best thing to use for feather making is a pocket knife. Swiss army, case the thinner blade really works the best. I use fixed blades too, but the thin blade of a pocket knife really slices.
I prefer the 1.25lt too the aurora for bushcrafter because part of bushcraft too me is food prep and hunting and I don’t like the aurora for skinning or gutting I do like the bravo 1 probably the most though but would really like too try the bravo 1lt for multi use
Oh no way. I will be reprofiling on the stones immediately. As is your suggestion. I would also like to note the handle differences. The a2 handle is rounder and more smooth in feel. The 3v scales are more angular and larger in cross section. Also the 3v scales extend up almost touching the plunge line. The A2 scales are a bit shorter, about 3/16" away from the plunge. I will test them thoroughly and see how the angular handle feels working. I'm very used to the a2 so we'll see.
You will like Bravo for Large Stag again....so no worries...it is a large stag knife. For it's SHEER Cool factor I know you still love it. It is great knife....someday a Classic.
Almost all of 3V Bark River knives come in fatter geometry and larger edge angle than the same models in A2 from BRKT. But I know 3V takes the same geometry as A2 and is still 3 times as durable and no chippy. So I always reprofile the 3V geometry and love it. If you don't like reprofiling, you need to tolerate the dullness of 3V or the less durability of A2. Thanks.
Hello , great video's , Been forging for 38 years , and recently started using W2 tool steel for my hunters and skinner's and am getting back some impressive results from the field . What impresses me with this steel is its ability to maintain and hold a very fine edge , especially when done on water stones , which I have come to appreciate and use exclusively . Are you familiar with this steel ? Hard to get in North America , but there are sources .
as far as all around knife...hunting/camp/bushcraft I bet the gunny scandi would be one of the best. You should compare it against the bravo1 this next deer season to see how it does as a hunter. I think a lot of people would like to see a video of what you feel is a good do-all knife for that person that just wants to carry one blade for everything
i'm leaning towards a canadian special or lil'. have you had a chance to look at the lil' canadian? also, which of the two steels offered do you think is better for field duty?
Hello, I would like to say I have seen all your videos. That's right, all of them. I have been watching you and practicing your sharpening techniques. For that I would like to say thank you. I recently aquired a bravo -1 spear point ramp less cpm 3-v with green canvas micarta scales. It is almost zero ground but does have a small micro bevel. I will be grinding it off, as I did to my a-2 bravo -1. The handle geometry is very different from a2 to cpm3-v versions. The same as you found.
I certainly agree with you on the clip point for batoning. It's good for piercing, but somewhat counterintuitive when used as a strike point with a wooden baton. I was just curious on your thoughts. I thought it was a peculiar design for a barkie, but that's me. All the best!
Yes sir it does have the fat geometry. But not quite as bad as your example. After reprofiling it should be fine for woodcraft. But right now it has a very slight micro bevel. This is the spear point version in 3v. With some steel removed from the top of the spine it seems a bit lighter than standard blade. I'll have to weigh it for you. Do you have a spear point version? I feel it's more bushcraft oriented in design. What do you think?
Agree the pair of the dark handle Gunny Scandi with the 1.5 Bravo with iron desert wood handle would be my pick too. Does either knife, 1.5 Bravo or Gunny, come from BR with a Scandi grind that is acceptable or via special order ? Each of your knives has its own unique personality but for those unfamiliar with BK it's better to say each knife's name and avoid the phrase "this knife" for identification purposes. Thumbs up !
Maybe someone already asked - I've been away from the computer a bit - but have you seen the clip point Scandi Gunny in 3v over at Knives Ship Free? Interesting mod. Cheers
I like Scandi grind for wood jobs. I don't need a clip point for batoning at all. It looks like a very strange design to me. And strangely again they seem like having given up their ridiculously large angle to their Scandi-convex grind. I suspect they noticed their failure about their fat Scandi-convex and made a strange design to the right Scandi-convex. They cannot change the geometry to the same model because they need to take responsibility for it. They don't need to for the different model.
I don't think so. In order to split wood for a small cooking fire I like Bravo1 the best. In order to whittle out feathers to ignite I like Helle Temagami CA the best. I don't drill with a knife.
I like all you video very much. But if you can list those name of models , it would be better for all of us. Sometimes I cannot hear very clearly what you are talking. ^^
Say Heah, I like ti Scout and no Hunting, So fir a Tough Knife my Bravo 1 in 3V is one of my Fav. Knives, Infact I have (3( Bravo 1's, two in 3V and one in the A2, So yeah I could understand why a military group had it designed . ,, .
Been watching your vids for a long time, very informative. Your techniques have been used by me for over 1 year, and my knives have never been as sharp as they are now. Even a Wakizashi and Tanto that I have stropped are razor sharp. Keep the information coming. And the bushcraft information, I have used on numerous trips to different island and camped in several jungles. Thanks for the sharing of information.
And I now use your techniques for butchering deer after hunts.
The "Canadian Belt Knife": One of the best knives ever made for meat/animal processing & skinning in my opinion.
why?
@@Onedayilbeok It's an evolution of the Canadian belt knife, which was used to skin reindeer and moose. It has the moon shape which is great for slicing away layers of fat, but still has a tip for opening incisions. And since bark river is known for essentially "perfecting" designs, many think that the CS is the best all-round northern hemisphere knife.
Martin from DBK prefers the Aurora over the Bravo 1 as well.
It's martin's Aurora on the video 😁and the gunny scandi is Mickie's now
HMMMMMM!
Aurora... My love...
I am happy to see you with an Aurora Sir. To me have been like "the end of the road".
It is an "hard to beat design" (really comfortable, "ALL PURPOSE" design) and the 3V version is like "a knife from Mars" (if compared to the others "bushcraft knives" on the market -mostly made in "O1"-).
It probably will grow up on you day after day; i hope you will enjoy it (like i do).
Best wishes from Italy
This is why I like this gentleman - opinions backed by reasoning and experience,
My 3V Bravo1.5 has a thicker and angular handle than A2 Bravo1.5. I think the angular thick handle assures stable holding better when power cut is needed. Thanks.
I agree with you completely. I honestly would not carry a knife that thick and that large to skin a whitetail deer. Which is what we hunt here mostly. My grandfather used to go from gut to cape with a pocket knife so I realise that level of blade is all that is necessary. Though sharpness is still paramount. I find drop points useful in bushcraft. Drilling starters for bow drill or friction fire and carving applications are best suited for it in my practice.
From what I can see, that homemade scandi grind is the best. Can’t really tell about the handles differences so much
That's the problem with having so many knives, you can never really make up your mind wich one is the best.
I rarely ever featherstick in all the time I spend building fire and camping. I'd rather just shave tinder and use tiny twigs.
I love BRKT, but I have to agree with you. The scandi-convex grind the bushcrafter comes with is "ridiculous". It is not very sharp. The Aurora was way sharper. I had to re-profile my bushcrafter to get it to an acceptable sharpness
If you sell Bark River Knives, how do I purchase one from you?
I'm wondering if the extra length of the Bravo 1.25 may offset the Aurora when batoning logs. It seems like the wider blade of the Bravo 1.25 would split the wood more and require less effort than the Aurora.
I ended up selling my Bravo-1 and bought a Bravo 1.5. feels better, imo. Might have to try an aurora in 3v. How is the rust resistance?
I can respect that. I hate swages, so I totally understand. Thank you for your time. I've been watching your stuff and collecting for a long time now. It was nice to have a conversation with you directly. I appreciate it very much.
woulda been nice if you shared the names of the different models of knifes. im fairly certain they are all BR blades but have no idea which model is which
First is Bravo 1, second is Aurora, third is Canadian Special I think, fourth is Gunny Bravo I think, and the last is the Bravo 1.5 field. Those are my guesses at least :)
His three favorites in this video are now The Fox River LT CPM 3V, the Aurora LT - CPM 3V, and the Canadian Special - CPM 3V
@@yugen I think, instead of the Gunny Bravo it's the Gunny Hunter...??
hi, i am really enjoying all of your videos
I think the best thing to use for feather making is a pocket knife. Swiss army, case the thinner blade really works the best. I use fixed blades too, but the thin blade of a pocket knife really slices.
Love your videos. As a beginning bushcrafter, it would be nice to have the knife models in the about. :)
I'd go for Scandi grind when feathering or any other wood work.
I prefer the 1.25lt too the aurora for bushcrafter because part of bushcraft too me is food prep and hunting and I don’t like the aurora for skinning or gutting I do like the bravo 1 probably the most though but would really like too try the bravo 1lt for multi use
There is no cure for knife addiction... it's always about the "next one"!
Hello!
What is name o the second knife (with a brown handle))
This knife is at on the 42 second.
Thank you!
That knife is Bark River Aurora. Its sharp tip design is for drilling. Thanks.
@@virtuovice Thanks!
Oh no way. I will be reprofiling on the stones immediately. As is your suggestion. I would also like to note the handle differences. The a2 handle is rounder and more smooth in feel. The 3v scales are more angular and larger in cross section. Also the 3v scales extend up almost touching the plunge line. The A2 scales are a bit shorter, about 3/16" away from the plunge. I will test them thoroughly and see how the angular handle feels working. I'm very used to the a2 so we'll see.
Love it. You make me want to buy more knives.
You will like Bravo for Large Stag again....so no worries...it is a large stag knife. For it's SHEER Cool factor I know you still love it. It is great knife....someday a Classic.
I like your videos, Brovo1lt still my favorite
I enjoy your Bark River videos. :)
as the Japanese did you ever do a comparison between the steel made in Japan and made in the west, for example ZDP 189 to s30v or the other
about 60 knives.
Almost all of 3V Bark River knives come in fatter geometry and larger edge angle than the same models in A2 from BRKT. But I know 3V takes the same geometry as A2 and is still 3 times as durable and no chippy. So I always reprofile the 3V geometry and love it. If you don't like reprofiling, you need to tolerate the dullness of 3V or the less durability of A2. Thanks.
Hello , great video's , Been forging for 38 years , and recently started using W2 tool steel for my hunters and skinner's and am getting back some impressive results from the field . What impresses me with this steel is its ability to maintain and hold a very fine edge , especially when done on water stones , which I have come to appreciate and use exclusively . Are you familiar with this steel ? Hard to get in North America , but there are sources .
as far as all around knife...hunting/camp/bushcraft I bet the gunny scandi would be one of the best. You should compare it against the bravo1 this next deer season to see how it does as a hunter. I think a lot of people would like to see a video of what you feel is a good do-all knife for that person that just wants to carry one blade for everything
i'm leaning towards a canadian special or lil'. have you had a chance to look at the lil' canadian?
also, which of the two steels offered do you think is better for field duty?
Hello, I would like to say I have seen all your videos. That's right, all of them. I have been watching you and practicing your sharpening techniques. For that I would like to say thank you. I recently aquired a bravo -1 spear point ramp less cpm 3-v with green canvas micarta scales. It is almost zero ground but does have a small micro bevel. I will be grinding it off, as I did to my a-2 bravo -1. The handle geometry is very different from a2 to cpm3-v versions. The same as you found.
I think 3V is semi stainless like D2. It is pretty rust resistant. Thanks.
I certainly agree with you on the clip point for batoning. It's good for piercing, but somewhat counterintuitive when used as a strike point with a wooden baton. I was just curious on your thoughts. I thought it was a peculiar design for a barkie, but that's me. All the best!
Love your videos!
I like a good drop point skinner
Yes sir it does have the fat geometry. But not quite as bad as your example. After reprofiling it should be fine for woodcraft. But right now it has a very slight micro bevel. This is the spear point version in 3v. With some steel removed from the top of the spine it seems a bit lighter than standard blade. I'll have to weigh it for you. Do you have a spear point version? I feel it's more bushcraft oriented in design. What do you think?
Its blade is short. I highly suspect it was reground from Gunny Scandi stock.
Have you ever tried the Squad Leader, best batoning knife.
Agree the pair of the dark handle Gunny Scandi with the 1.5 Bravo with iron desert wood handle would be my pick too. Does either knife, 1.5 Bravo or Gunny, come from BR with a Scandi grind that is acceptable or via special order ? Each of your knives has its own unique personality but for those unfamiliar with BK it's better to say each knife's name and avoid the phrase "this knife" for identification purposes. Thumbs up !
I showed Bravo1 in bamboo and Bravo1.5 in Desert Ironwood.
Great knife 5-sum. What is the model name of second longest knife? It looks like a good piercing blade.
What are the other knives shown in this video?
Aurora, Bravo1.5, Canadian Special, Gunny Scandi, all from Bark River.
Wako, is that Enzo Camper sheath you are using with Aurora on this video?
+ferizB Yes, it is.
Good work.
@Mettlemane his is made of bamboo handles with A2 tool steel blade
Nice one sir
The wood is very soft pine.
Maybe someone already asked - I've been away from the computer a bit - but have you seen the clip point Scandi Gunny in 3v over at Knives Ship Free? Interesting mod. Cheers
Is that a bravo2 or bravo1.5 at top?
How many of those knives are dbks now
What is the bravo 1 made of ?
I figured out that anything a Bravo1 can do a Gunny can do the same or better. It feels better in hand and has less cutting resistance...
I like Scandi grind for wood jobs. I don't need a clip point for batoning at all. It looks like a very strange design to me. And strangely again they seem like having given up their ridiculously large angle to their Scandi-convex grind. I suspect they noticed their failure about their fat Scandi-convex and made a strange design to the right Scandi-convex. They cannot change the geometry to the same model because they need to take responsibility for it. They don't need to for the different model.
So you like the Aurora the best as a Bushcraft knife?
I don't think so. In order to split wood for a small cooking fire I like Bravo1 the best. In order to whittle out feathers to ignite I like Helle Temagami CA the best. I don't drill with a knife.
It is made of A2. 3V Bravo1 has very fat geometry and one ounce heavier than A2 one. So I don't like 3V for Bravo1.
At last...someone who isn’t worshiping Bark Rivers Bravo 1.
As good as the Bravo 1 is I am a great believer in truly handmade knives.
are you willing to sell some of your bravo knives?
What do you do for a living man i wish i had all those knives
I think you mean the Aurora. With the compass symbol on the blade.
Thought you loved the Bravo 1?
Different tools for different jobs is ok.
Did you put a custom grind on that Gunny Scandi?
I raised the bevel and flattened it.
virtuovice I wonder if Bark River would do this for me
Kasumi 3/8k combi stone is selling for $60 here. It is not famous though.
You should try a bark river kephart!
Is the 4th knife a gunny?
That's Gunny Scandi whose bevel I flattened myself.
I like all you video very much. But if you can list those name of models , it would be better for all of us. Sometimes I cannot hear very clearly what you are talking. ^^
+Li-Ping Chou Aurora, Canadian Special, Gunny Scandi, Bravo1.5.
シカハンターさんだ〜！
I'd be happy with one Bark River knife no need to compare for me cause all I would have is one LOL😅😉....it would be the best Bark river I owned ROFL😂
give us the names of the scandi knife and the ling bushcraft you love. looks like aurora
7:25 gunny scandi
You're CRAZY!
I personally don't like the spear point design aesthetically.
Good god have a lot of knives
No from blade thicknes!
The bravo 1 was designed for combat ready recon marines, naturally there a better bushcraft style knives.
Or so the story goes 😏
Too stout, grip is too slick-may want to put a file to it...
However-I EDC mine in S35VN on a horizontal sheath just fine 😎
Bush craft is what you do in the woods, survival is what you do at home.
Say Heah, I like ti Scout and no Hunting, So fir a Tough Knife my Bravo 1 in 3V is one of my Fav. Knives, Infact I have (3( Bravo 1's, two in 3V and one in the A2, So yeah I could understand why a military group had it designed . ,, .
your not crazy the canadian is a great
Your Crazy .. heh
What Do You Think You Are Great Samurai Warrior!?LoL! OK DanielSon !
No English)))
Not crazy......at all.