I miss those years, more than anything! Time should have an option, to be able to go back! I don't care about the future, because I know their plans is to make things worse, I care about the past, where things where still normal and beautiful!
Why do not simply to take recurved knive like bark river recurve? If you put the knife not under 90 degree to wood but 70-80, than you enlarge spear point and it becomes thinner and curve still gives your good control over. Like † vs ł I prefer recurved knives therefore. Bark river recurve 3v is my favorite. Difficult to sharp, but looks and does better :) Sorry for my bad English. Thank you.
I don't think you get fatter curls with the more obtuse convex because you have to apply extra downward force (i.e. tangential to the cutting plane). I think that, on the contrary, one could make the argument that having the blade supported against the wood means feathersticking is easier, since you do not have to exert counter-force as much to fight gravity and prevent the knife from biting in too deep, and the knife direction may be more stabilized by the extra point of contact. The amount of forward force (for slicing off a curl) that you apply shouldn't be affected much (for a given edge angle), excepting a little extra drag from more of the edge in contact with the wood. I think the issue is simply the larger angle. The bravo 1 wants to bite in deeper, which means fatter curls, and which also means you need to apply more force because you have a larger wedge biting in at a deeper angle, so more force is needed to split the wood. Once the knife bites, that second point of contact for the convex edge disappears or diminishes - whether, for a similar angle, it provides extra resistance over a flat grind is debatable (wider, so more splitting force required, but less material in contact...in my experience, convex, even when a slightly larger angle, feels like it glides through wood more easily than a scandi).
"The angle to hold is the edge geometry" - his is exactly the same. The only difference is that the grind is convex instead of flat and doesn't bite as deep. His grind is a scandi convex. This makes thinner feathers because the cut is shallow, less material is removed.
I was thinking about passing my knives to my daughter who is lefty. She will not able to use my hybrid grind knives properly. Of course if a lefty person ever needs my grind, he/she only needs to make the grinds reversed. Thanks.
I have the same Pekka Puukko that I ordered after I saw your initial video, but it took nearly a year to get it. ISame leather sheath, but all black. I also received the optional kydex sheath. It's a great knife. I also bought the Brisa Enzo Camper. I've used it to start many campfires with great success. Do you still use yours?
I'm not sure I understand. Why would a left handed person need two knives, while a right handed only a hybrid grind? Why couldn't the left handed person just reverse geometry on their knife (make the right side of the blade flat and the left side convexed)? That is, if they are purely left handed. My problem is that I am somewhat mixed dominant, tend to do use both hands so need symmetrical geometry.
Its easier to control the angle with a scandi when feather sticking because the angle to hold is the edge geometry so i must disagree with you my friend. the idea behind feather sticks is to make THIN shavings...
I'm a recent convert - It's painful, but watch it again. A large radius convex is easier to control. Look age the thinness of his first 2 feathers compared to the Puukko which starts thin but bites later and goes deep.
In my experience...a convex edge bevel is more difficult to feather stick with than a flat scandi...PERIOD. convex bites deeper. the reason is geometry works is because the edge thats against the wood is the flat SCANDI side of the edge bevel haha...not the convex
another excellent video. Very well illustrated. Thanks for sharing.
This feels like a kitchen ASMR video :-)
WooHoo! My Elmax Trapper will arrive tomorrow - I can't wait to slightly convex the scandi! Thanks, Doc. Happy hunting!
Wonderful information for the beginning knife maker. thank you for your knowledge.
It's almost like a mix between a chisel grind and a scandi grind. very nice idea!
Yes. After the chip restoration its bevel gets a bit more convex and tougher. I like it very much to make fire. Thanks.
I miss those years, more than anything! Time should have an option, to be able to go back! I don't care about the future, because I know their plans is to make things worse, I care about the past, where things where still normal and beautiful!
Why do not simply to take recurved knive like bark river recurve? If you put the knife not under 90 degree to wood but 70-80, than you enlarge spear point and it becomes thinner and curve still gives your good control over. Like † vs ł
I prefer recurved knives therefore. Bark river recurve 3v is my favorite. Difficult to sharp, but looks and does better :)
Sorry for my bad English. Thank you.
I don't think you get fatter curls with the more obtuse convex because you have to apply extra downward force (i.e. tangential to the cutting plane). I think that, on the contrary, one could make the argument that having the blade supported against the wood means feathersticking is easier, since you do not have to exert counter-force as much to fight gravity and prevent the knife from biting in too deep, and the knife direction may be more stabilized by the extra point of contact. The amount of forward force (for slicing off a curl) that you apply shouldn't be affected much (for a given edge angle), excepting a little extra drag from more of the edge in contact with the wood. I think the issue is simply the larger angle. The bravo 1 wants to bite in deeper, which means fatter curls, and which also means you need to apply more force because you have a larger wedge biting in at a deeper angle, so more force is needed to split the wood. Once the knife bites, that second point of contact for the convex edge disappears or diminishes - whether, for a similar angle, it provides extra resistance over a flat grind is debatable (wider, so more splitting force required, but less material in contact...in my experience, convex, even when a slightly larger angle, feels like it glides through wood more easily than a scandi).
"The angle to hold is the edge geometry" - his is exactly the same. The only difference is that the grind is convex instead of flat and doesn't bite as deep. His grind is a scandi convex. This makes thinner feathers because the cut is shallow, less material is removed.
It is Pekka Tuominen custom knife.
I was thinking about passing my knives to my daughter who is lefty. She will not able to use my hybrid grind knives properly. Of course if a lefty person ever needs my grind, he/she only needs to make the grinds reversed. Thanks.
Who makes that Puukko knife? Very nice!
Great discussion points Wako. What is the name of the high scandi grind knife?
In your estimation: Which is the best “Hunting Knife model”. And then “Grind”.....(In “one” sentence!). Please Dumb it Down for me! Thanks!!
I have the same Pekka Puukko that I ordered after I saw your initial video, but it took nearly a year to get it. ISame leather sheath, but all black. I also received the optional kydex sheath. It's a great knife. I also bought the Brisa Enzo Camper. I've used it to start many campfires with great success. Do you still use yours?
I'm not sure I understand. Why would a left handed person need two knives, while a right handed only a hybrid grind? Why couldn't the left handed person just reverse geometry on their knife (make the right side of the blade flat and the left side convexed)? That is, if they are purely left handed.
My problem is that I am somewhat mixed dominant, tend to do use both hands so need symmetrical geometry.
sharpen both edges of the blade with different grinds?
Its easier to control the angle with a scandi when feather sticking because the angle to hold is the edge geometry so i must disagree with you my friend. the idea behind feather sticks is to make THIN shavings...
I'm a recent convert - It's painful, but watch it again. A large radius convex is easier to control. Look age the thinness of his first 2 feathers compared to the Puukko which starts thin but bites later and goes deep.
Absolutely wrong! Scandi is the worst for feathers.
In my experience...a convex edge bevel is more difficult to feather stick with than a flat scandi...PERIOD. convex bites deeper. the reason is geometry works is because the edge thats against the wood is the flat SCANDI side of the edge bevel haha...not the convex
more clearly..., only water
alot of Americans are wondering about radiation from fukushima. have you checked if you all are getting any radiation? great video