I'm glad that you like the DW Storch. I'm a fan of Luftwaffe aircraft and have the DW Storch myself. I wanted to love the aircraft, but I don't, and won't fly mine any more. The LE slats never worked for me (could never get them to actuate consistently) and finally locked them in place. I hate the battery placement. It almost takes a contortionist wrist to snake the battery between the spars and into the nose. This plane was originally designed for an IC motor, and it shows. The biggest mechanical problem that I had was the wing-to-fuselage joint, at the wing root. The wing struts kept trying to pull the wing away from the fuselage and one wing would droop more than the other. I tried repositioning the struts a few times, but could never get the wings to stay level, without one or the other drooping. I finally used some wood screws to semi-permanently attach the wings to the fuselage. I lost my canopy many times, too, and would use a piece of clear tape, to keep the canopy from coming off. Ultimately, I was VERY unhappy with the flying characteristics of my Storch (I fly a lot of warbirds and know how to fly them). She never flew well, and never consistently from flight to flight. The worst problem was at slow speed. For a STOL aircraft, her slow-speed characteristics were terrible. I could land her fast with no problems, but if trying to do a really slow landing, she'd tip-stall with no warning. So, my Storch is only a show piece now. With all of that said, I hope that you get your Storch dialed in and running well. I'd very much like to hear your thoughts on the aircraft in later flights.
Thanks! Yeah, when I plugged the second battery in, I started hearing humming noises from the slats servos and I had no control of them! I will order new ones and get her in the air again!
Jon, you did a terrific job flying this bird - it's a tough one. Even one of the flight instructors at my club could not tame this one. I had to fish it out of the Hudson River (in NY) for the owner - his canopy was lost forever -LOL. Great Job!!!!!! 👍
Morning Jon, I just purchased this one off the ceiling at the local hobby shop, after watching and reading what other owners say about it, yes, it's a brick of wood. I'm adding forward wing root screws to secure the wings to the fuselage better, there's a joint of two pieces of ply in the trunk of the fuse half just ahead of the main spar. these long wings have a lot of torque at he root when flying and that can make them tip stall easier, also the wing slats shouldn't lift more than 4mm, more gimmick than purpose but if you're going to use them as adjustable then put them on a three position switch with the first lift at 2mm and the second lift at 4mm, if they lift too high then they cause too much turbulence over the top of the wing and it stalls quickly, the flaps can be used to help stabilize the wing when the slats are deployed, so set the first flap setting at about 30% and the second at 70% for landing but as heavy as this plane is it has to be landed non scale at a higher speed, just that this plane isn't scale weight. You can cut some of the weight by using smaller 4s packs like 2200's. the elevator & horizontal stabilizer have a lot of surface area so it can fly a bit tail heavy on the CG, not much but it's weight reduction. Vent the fuselage, there is no place designed into the fuse for air to leave and the prop will pump a lot in so back at the tail on the bottom of the fuse is a plate with two holes already in the wood just ahead of the tail wheel, I also opened the fuse covering just ahead of the rear landing gear thrust rod fastener. These are a birds nest of wires in the fuselage, I'm going to shorten up all the servo leads and route them on either side of the cockpit and forget about the folding wing, there's no scale way to set it up, the flaps contact the bay windows and will create more headache than it's worth for the appearance in the pits. So set the wings up to fly by securing the screws for the struts and rear pivot and I suggest to anybody building this plane to add the forward root to fuselage bolts/screws before covering the wing, it's hard to set the blind nut inside the wing after they are covered,,,,, An excellent job on the information and explanation in your video, thank you.
Thank you for the detailed build recommendations! Honestly, I have not flown mine since the maiden flight. She is literally hanging on the roof of our garage. After I landed from the maiden, one or both of the slat servos failed and was causing a loud hummm. I kinda lost interest in the plane since I had other much easier planes to fly. We may take her down again and replace the slat servos some time in the future. For now, she is a beautiful static model that catches family and friend's attention every time they see it.
I’m pretty sure there’s 2 versions of this kit, one with electronics and one without. We built the one with electronics. It comes as an ARF that is pre coated, it was not built from plans.
I’m pretty sure there’s 2 versions of this kit, one with electronics and one without. We built the one with electronics. It comes as an ARF that is pre coated, it was not built from plans.
Morning Jon, I guess all my speculation about the problems with the slats, with the slats flush my plane would tip stall if under half throttle, I tried flying slow & straight but it would wing wag and stall. I discover is that during the first part of my flying the slats were deployed about 2mm, it was very hard to control, seemed like it had very little lift/ Mine was too nose heavy on the first flight it stalled on approach to land and it bent the landing gear. Second flight with the battery back further seemed to fly better but again on approach it stalled bad and at an altitude, hit hard, broke the fuselage in half right behind the cockpit. I'll do the repairs to the fuse and I've just removed the slats to see if I can get it to fly easier, for now neither flight was fun. The plane needs to be lighter and fly easier for a recommendation from me. I might try to get a set of slats for a Draco and retro fit them to this plane but it's gotta fly better before I go to any more trouble with it.
You can actually rewire the servos; I’ve done it myself. You must open up the servo to reverse some wires inside. Just reversing the servo wires won’t work.
If it was just the ARF plane, yes I would agree! But, this kit came with all the electronics less the receiver. The kit includes the motor, ESC and all the servos plus all the wiring accessories you need to put her together. I have other ARF balsa kits of similar size that cost about $200 just for the kit but we end buying $300+ of electronics and accessories to get her in the air!
nice! great video. how did you get the wings to remain snug to the fuselage without wiggling around? i'm using a long Velcro strap adhering to of the wings taught over the canopy. i'd like to figure something better out and still keep the fold-back wings feature. ruclips.net/video/SuLNoDik3TA/видео.html
It looks like the Fi 156 B variant was fitted with a retractable leading edge slats. Well, according to Wikipedia anyway. I don't know how accurate that is!
I'm glad that you like the DW Storch. I'm a fan of Luftwaffe aircraft and have the DW Storch myself. I wanted to love the aircraft, but I don't, and won't fly mine any more. The LE slats never worked for me (could never get them to actuate consistently) and finally locked them in place. I hate the battery placement. It almost takes a contortionist wrist to snake the battery between the spars and into the nose. This plane was originally designed for an IC motor, and it shows. The biggest mechanical problem that I had was the wing-to-fuselage joint, at the wing root. The wing struts kept trying to pull the wing away from the fuselage and one wing would droop more than the other. I tried repositioning the struts a few times, but could never get the wings to stay level, without one or the other drooping. I finally used some wood screws to semi-permanently attach the wings to the fuselage. I lost my canopy many times, too, and would use a piece of clear tape, to keep the canopy from coming off. Ultimately, I was VERY unhappy with the flying characteristics of my Storch (I fly a lot of warbirds and know how to fly them). She never flew well, and never consistently from flight to flight. The worst problem was at slow speed. For a STOL aircraft, her slow-speed characteristics were terrible. I could land her fast with no problems, but if trying to do a really slow landing, she'd tip-stall with no warning. So, my Storch is only a show piece now. With all of that said, I hope that you get your Storch dialed in and running well. I'd very much like to hear your thoughts on the aircraft in later flights.
Beautiful Model! Can't wait to see you fly her again! 🤙🏼
Thanks! Yeah, when I plugged the second battery in, I started hearing humming noises from the slats servos and I had no control of them! I will order new ones and get her in the air again!
great overview of the model, will be building mine form the kit...
If at all possible, build it with dihedral. It badly needs it.
Jon, you did a terrific job flying this bird - it's a tough one. Even one of the flight instructors at my club could not tame this one. I had to fish it out of the Hudson River (in NY) for the owner - his canopy was lost forever -LOL. Great Job!!!!!! 👍
Thank you! I honestly did not have an issue flying her. I thought she flew just fine! I can’t wait to get her in the air again!
Morning Jon, I just purchased this one off the ceiling at the local hobby shop, after watching and reading what other owners say about it, yes, it's a brick of wood.
I'm adding forward wing root screws to secure the wings to the fuselage better, there's a joint of two pieces of ply in the trunk of the fuse half just ahead of the main spar.
these long wings have a lot of torque at he root when flying and that can make them tip stall easier, also the wing slats shouldn't lift more than 4mm, more gimmick than purpose but if you're going to use them as adjustable then put them on a three position switch with the first lift at 2mm and the second lift at 4mm, if they lift too high then they cause too much turbulence over the top of the wing and it stalls quickly, the flaps can be used to help stabilize the wing when the slats are deployed, so set the first flap setting at about 30% and the second at 70% for landing but as heavy as this plane is it has to be landed non scale at a higher speed, just that this plane isn't scale weight.
You can cut some of the weight by using smaller 4s packs like 2200's.
the elevator & horizontal stabilizer have a lot of surface area so it can fly a bit tail heavy on the CG, not much but it's weight reduction.
Vent the fuselage, there is no place designed into the fuse for air to leave and the prop will pump a lot in so back at the tail on the bottom of the fuse is a plate with two holes already in the wood just ahead of the tail wheel, I also opened the fuse covering just ahead of the rear landing gear thrust rod fastener.
These are a birds nest of wires in the fuselage, I'm going to shorten up all the servo leads and route them on either side of the cockpit and forget about the folding wing, there's no scale way to set it up, the flaps contact the bay windows and will create more headache than it's worth for the appearance in the pits.
So set the wings up to fly by securing the screws for the struts and rear pivot and I suggest to anybody building this plane to add the forward root to fuselage bolts/screws before covering the wing, it's hard to set the blind nut inside the wing after they are covered,,,,,
An excellent job on the information and explanation in your video, thank you.
Thank you for the detailed build recommendations! Honestly, I have not flown mine since the maiden flight. She is literally hanging on the roof of our garage. After I landed from the maiden, one or both of the slat servos failed and was causing a loud hummm. I kinda lost interest in the plane since I had other much easier planes to fly. We may take her down again and replace the slat servos some time in the future. For now, she is a beautiful static model that catches family and friend's attention every time they see it.
Jon, were the servos provided in the kit, and was yours an ARF or stick kit?
@@JonsRC
I’m pretty sure there’s 2 versions of this kit, one with electronics and one without. We built the one with electronics. It comes as an ARF that is pre coated, it was not built from plans.
I’m pretty sure there’s 2 versions of this kit, one with electronics and one without. We built the one with electronics. It comes as an ARF that is pre coated, it was not built from plans.
The manufacturers usually supply the cheapest electrics they can, mine are all Hitec HS 55's @@JonsRC
Morning Jon, I guess all my speculation about the problems with the slats, with the slats flush my plane would tip stall if under half throttle, I tried flying slow & straight but it would wing wag and stall.
I discover is that during the first part of my flying the slats were deployed about 2mm, it was very hard to control, seemed like it had very little lift/
Mine was too nose heavy on the first flight it stalled on approach to land and it bent the landing gear.
Second flight with the battery back further seemed to fly better but again on approach it stalled bad and at an altitude, hit hard, broke the fuselage in half right behind the cockpit.
I'll do the repairs to the fuse and I've just removed the slats to see if I can get it to fly easier,
for now neither flight was fun.
The plane needs to be lighter and fly easier for a recommendation from me.
I might try to get a set of slats for a Draco and retro fit them to this plane but it's gotta fly better before I go to any more trouble with it.
You can actually rewire the servos; I’ve done it myself. You must open up the servo to reverse some wires inside. Just reversing the servo wires won’t work.
Directions for reversing a servo can be found on the Flite Test site.
Search for: Flite test how to reverse a servo.
Did ya find the canooy?
It took me and four other RC pilots 20 mins to find a green and clear canopy in a field of tall dry grass but we found it! 😀
On the original airplane there actually was mechanical flaparones. From half flaps and down.
You can get servos that are reversed. That is what you need for flaps.
$600 for a tiny arf is crazy
If it was just the ARF plane, yes I would agree! But, this kit came with all the electronics less the receiver. The kit includes the motor, ESC and all the servos plus all the wiring accessories you need to put her together. I have other ARF balsa kits of similar size that cost about $200 just for the kit but we end buying $300+ of electronics and accessories to get her in the air!
@@JonsRCi didnt realize that. They should put pnp on their website then. Seeing arf makes me think its just the airframe
nice! great video. how did you get the wings to remain snug to the fuselage without wiggling around? i'm using a long Velcro strap adhering to of the wings taught over the canopy. i'd like to figure something better out and still keep the fold-back wings feature.
ruclips.net/video/SuLNoDik3TA/видео.html
The real Storch had fixed leading edge slats. Why do model makers make them adjustable for no obvious benefits.
It looks like the Fi 156 B variant was fitted with a retractable leading edge slats. Well, according to Wikipedia anyway. I don't know how accurate that is!
Total waste of time and money