My younger sister has just bought her first Corsa C and needs this job doing, and who does it bring me to, the legend himself James 🙏💪. An old Scholl great vid. Miss you mate, hope your back soon
Hey James, you really did mature into a decent mechanic in a short few years but I often wonder what toll RUclips takes out of those amateur Tubers working full time and having families. Viewers and subscribers sometimes don't realise the effort and time sacrificed behind the scenes that goes into each video. You are missed but real life is real life and hobbies are well, hobbies (until those that want to take a leap give up their day job and become full time RUclipsrs like the Mat Armstrongs of the world). Not for everyone and I know from experience that family time is important as I sacrificed mine for my passion which was football and paid for it. Maybe we'll see you again, maybe we won't but whatever happens make sure your family comes first and also supports you in whatever hobby or passion you have. All the best in whatever you are doing.
Good to see the younger generation having a go, if you don't mind here's a couple of tips... > Before you try to loosen the locknut give it a whack with two hammers, hit it from both sides at the same time, do this a couple of times quite hard. This will shock the area and should break any corrosion free so the nut will loosen easier. > The Fork tool will cause damage to the rubber gaiter (like the splits you show) so only use this if you are replacing the track rod end. If not replacing don't use the fork, just give the area where the track rod end fits into a sharp blow with a hammer while pulling up on the track rod end, this will shock the taper loose. > Apply a smear of grease to the threads before fitting the end onto the track rod. > The nut on the end of the track rod end should be tightened fully (check the correct torque), the fitting is a taper, you can't pull it in to far. > When all fitted give the nuts / threads a coat of grease or brush on some waxoil, it will make replacement a lot easier in future. > Loose the Ear rings, you'll regret them so much in future years!
thanks for the feedback, i made this video back when i was first learning about car repair and now know a lot more, All very helpful tips none the less! As for the ear rings.. i don't have many regrets and ear rings certainly wont be one of them lol
Come across ya video got do mine might have a go myself now but my jobs I try never goes as smooth always hit a brick wall then I have go off and find someone to come and help me.
Would like to make a few advisories, first of all if you are jacking a car up using a little jack like that use the jacking point, car can easily slide of the jack and this could cause the jack to puncture the floor pan, also when breaking the tie rod end from the carrier remove retaining nut fully first as if there is excessive corrosion and the joint is really worn it could spin once broken from the carrier
Useful video, but you did loosen the nut when you were nipping it up. It's only righty tighty when the nut is going away from you. Would have been useful if you had used the hammer technique on one side, even if only for demonstration purposes on a previously split ball joint. If you do have to hammer the ball joint apart, ensure the nut is flush with the end of the thread, this will give a better surface to strike with a hammer and minimise damage. Some WD40 may help too. Good idea to count the threads. If you also count the threads as you remove ball joint, you can double check it. If you use counting the ball joint turns as reference, you can replace the nut (be careful of different nut thickness if using video method) and clean the threads under the nut too. Definitely worth a thumbs up, cheers.
thanks for the video, but i think the nut at the inner tie rod should be very tightened and its better to count the turns as you taking of the tie rod end so when you put the new one back on you give it same number of turns other way the steering wheel will go off centre, thanks .
My left tie rod end is twisted at a tilted angle, I only noticed when I heard a clicking noise inside, investigated and see it tilted , seeing as it’s locked set into place , do you think there could possibly be another problem , the car drives straight, stearin is smooth,
Dig the video man, I need to buy meself a decdent trolley jack salso, i have one but it a small size it looks like a trolley jacks for hobbits. I am not sure.
Im really amazed, how can there be a 1 litre corsa? does it even make sense? I have a 1.6 engine and a 1999 model. i dont understand it, so they are going backwards?
It is called downsizing, having more with less, smaller engine with the same amount of more horsepower, but because the engine capacity is smaller the fuel consumption and emmissions are less.
My younger sister has just bought her first Corsa C and needs this job doing, and who does it bring me to, the legend himself James 🙏💪. An old Scholl great vid. Miss you mate, hope your back soon
Hey James, you really did mature into a decent mechanic in a short few years but I often wonder what toll RUclips takes out of those amateur Tubers working full time and having families. Viewers and subscribers sometimes don't realise the effort and time sacrificed behind the scenes that goes into each video.
You are missed but real life is real life and hobbies are well, hobbies (until those that want to take a leap give up their day job and become full time RUclipsrs like the Mat Armstrongs of the world). Not for everyone and I know from experience that family time is important as I sacrificed mine for my passion which was football and paid for it.
Maybe we'll see you again, maybe we won't but whatever happens make sure your family comes first and also supports you in whatever hobby or passion you have. All the best in whatever you are doing.
Look how far you have come now James from this video to today one of the best RUclipsr’s around
Good to see the younger generation having a go, if you don't mind here's a couple of tips...
>
Before you try to loosen the locknut give it a whack with two hammers, hit it from both sides at the same time, do this a couple of times quite hard. This will shock the area and should break any corrosion free so the nut will loosen easier.
>
The Fork tool will cause damage to the rubber gaiter (like the splits you show) so only use this if you are replacing the track rod end. If not replacing don't use the fork, just give the area where the track rod end fits into a sharp blow with a hammer while pulling up on the track rod end, this will shock the taper loose.
>
Apply a smear of grease to the threads before fitting the end onto the track rod.
>
The nut on the end of the track rod end should be tightened fully (check the correct torque), the fitting is a taper, you can't pull it in to far.
>
When all fitted give the nuts / threads a coat of grease or brush on some waxoil, it will make replacement a lot easier in future.
>
Loose the Ear rings, you'll regret them so much in future years!
thanks for the feedback, i made this video back when i was first learning about car repair and now know a lot more, All very helpful tips none the less! As for the ear rings.. i don't have many regrets and ear rings certainly wont be one of them lol
I do like the old Corsa C platform, it's just so cheap and easy to work on.
Come across ya video got do mine might have a go myself now but my jobs I try never goes as smooth always hit a brick wall then I have go off and find someone to come and help me.
Would like to make a few advisories, first of all if you are jacking a car up using a little jack like that use the jacking point, car can easily slide of the jack and this could cause the jack to puncture the floor pan, also when breaking the tie rod end from the carrier remove retaining nut fully first as if there is excessive corrosion and the joint is really worn it could spin once broken from the carrier
Richard Gomm noted thankyou
At the end when you were trying to tighten the locking nut a bit more you were actually loosening it! But we all make mistakes :-)
You are correct Sir, I saw that too. It's only righty tighty when tightening the nut 'away' from you, not towards you.
Top video! Make sure you make some more pal! Very helpful!!!!!!
Useful video, but you did loosen the nut when you were nipping it up. It's only righty tighty when the nut is going away from you. Would have been useful if you had used the hammer technique on one side, even if only for demonstration purposes on a previously split ball joint.
If you do have to hammer the ball joint apart, ensure the nut is flush with the end of the thread, this will give a better surface to strike with a hammer and minimise damage. Some WD40 may help too.
Good idea to count the threads. If you also count the threads as you remove ball joint, you can double check it. If you use counting the ball joint turns as reference, you can replace the nut (be careful of different nut thickness if using video method) and clean the threads under the nut too.
Definitely worth a thumbs up, cheers.
“And the tie rod ends, I’m just doing the front ones today” anyone else clock that?...😂
lol
Great Video mate, Its called a Ball joint Splitter :)
Bluudys Garage ball joint separator
thanks for the video, but i think the nut at the inner tie rod should be very tightened and its better to count the turns as you taking of the tie rod end so when you put the new one back on you give it same number of turns other way the steering wheel will go off centre, thanks .
I just gave you your 200th like on this video... Very helpful. Cheers. 👍
Hey man look I really hope your alright I’m concerned dude
Really well done video! Well played sir...
Thanks so much :)
I got to do both sides including droplings next weekend lol.. all front end sounds like its falling apart.
A piece of cardboard down to save your block pave drive. just a suggestion.
Nice easy guide thanks
My left tie rod end is twisted at a tilted angle, I only noticed when I heard a clicking noise inside, investigated and see it tilted , seeing as it’s locked set into place , do you think there could possibly be another problem , the car drives straight, stearin is smooth,
Nice one mate top job
helpful video
show how to take the front bumper off?
Dig the video man, I need to buy meself a decdent trolley jack salso, i have one but it a small size it looks like a trolley jacks for hobbits.
I am not sure.
Im really amazed, how can there be a 1 litre corsa? does it even make sense?
I have a 1.6 engine and a 1999 model. i dont understand it, so they are going backwards?
It is called downsizing, having more with less, smaller engine with the same amount of more horsepower, but because the engine capacity is smaller the fuel consumption and emmissions are less.
Don’t pull out for overtakes then. It will still get you from A to B
I have a Corsa 1.4 SRI 2011 and I need to changed the tie rod ends. Would it be done the same way as you shown in this video?
+Mark Cresswell Yep! i have made a updated video of this where i changed inner and outer tie rods, but yes the same as this video
The Savage Garage Awesome. Have you got any recommendations for where to buy some tie rod ends? Preferably online?
+Mark Cresswell Euro car parts are my most used place, wilco is usually my back up.. eBay seem to make good quality parts too
+The Savage Garage Cheers bud, thanks for the help. Liked and Subscribed 👍
Thankyou very much bud appreciate it :)
Those wheel bolts where not ever tite