That’s the best explanation of timing being 180 degrees out that I’ve seen. I didn’t realize that both valves would be open on cylinder number 1 when timing was 180 degrees out. I also like where you pointed out that even though the distributor gear was in the proper position with the cam gear, you can still rotate (bump) the distributor until the distributor drive engages.
FANTASTIC VIDEO. Simple to the point. And also a great way of indexing the distributor/oil pump shaft, which to me is the biggest pain to drop in. Rarely have I ever been lucky enough for that to line up and drop into place first time.
My Haynes book says dont turn the crankshaft without distributor in. 1987 5.7 liter chevy g20v. Can I just turn crank the engine with the bar and it will seat in automatically?
Just to say he sets it at 30* because that's total timing assuming you have no timing gun and also a very nice balancer Setting it to 0* is how to get the engine to start, needs more advanced after startup
I have a 350 snd I took the number 1 plug Snd turned the engine till it blew air out and the valves both were closed then kept turning the balancer till it hit zero and installed the distributor to point at 1 but still no start .what am I doing wrong
check crank case pully or balenser fo tdc mark this put on at the factory every eng should have tdc on somthing if its off very much it will not start if starts you are close you need a timming light to see exactly where it firing you do not leave it at tdc most eng run better a few deg before tdc i set up on 4 deg before tdc that desides when it fires the rotor deside where it fires (which plug) the points go open at TDC that starts current flow in coil thru condenser causing coil to generate high voltage spark all this happens very fast,(LOL)
I'm working on a 1974 Ford F100 302 engine. Im having problems with it not going past 35mph. i have done a vacuum test & timing as well. but still won't go past 35mph
you need a fireing order for your eng to see where each plug wire goes its like clock #6 wire is in 1 oclock spot lift top off dist rotor will be pointing at 1 oclock position if you eng will start and idle you real close you can loosen the bolt that holds dist down if you have deg marks all you need to conn timing light to #6 hold it over crankcase pully see where its flashing mine calls for 4 deg before tdc you slowly rotate dist while watching flash stop rotation on #4 tightion dist bolt
BOYS&girls ever used a kleenex/paper towel?, take a piece of paper towel put in #1 plug hole(b carful) Crank engine compression will blow piece of towel out of plug bore,line up timing mark tdc to pointer SBC dist rotates clockwise 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2, most sbc the #1 is around11/12 o clock on cap...pls ck. Hope this helps.
That’s the best explanation of timing being 180 degrees out that I’ve seen. I didn’t realize that both valves would be open on cylinder number 1 when timing was 180 degrees out. I also like where you pointed out that even though the distributor gear was in the proper position with the cam gear, you can still rotate (bump) the distributor until the distributor drive engages.
FANTASTIC VIDEO. Simple to the point. And also a great way of indexing the distributor/oil pump shaft, which to me is the biggest pain to drop in. Rarely have I ever been lucky enough for that to line up and drop into place first time.
Pat is THE BEST 👌.
Why not 0 to 0 on balancer and pointer and drop distributor in so that the rotor button is pointed at number 1 cylinder?
Because the distributer could be 180 if they put it on the exhaust stroke.
My Haynes book says dont turn the crankshaft without distributor in. 1987 5.7 liter chevy g20v. Can I just turn crank the engine with the bar and it will seat in automatically?
Yes by hand
thanks for the video for me the part at 1:36 was super helpful for me ensuring I was on the compression stroke. thanks
yeah,
Nice video. Very clear.
very useful video, thankyou
So if mine calls for 5 degrees btdc , do I set it a 5 then drop the distributor in? Or set a 0 then set timing?
Can you explain how to find TDC on a 3 cylinder diesel, that has no marks on the pulley.
great work.thanks
Ok set it 180 off and let’s see the flames.
Will this work for a non distributor system? I have a Ford 4.2l v6.it uses a camshaft synchroniser and sensor..
Just to say he sets it at 30* because that's total timing assuming you have no timing gun and also a very nice balancer
Setting it to 0* is how to get the engine to start, needs more advanced after startup
Awesome..
why is he installing dizzy at 30 degrees?
I have a 350 snd I took the number 1 plug Snd turned the engine till it blew air out and the valves both were closed then kept turning the balancer till it hit zero and installed the distributor to point at 1 but still no start .what am I doing wrong
Hey did you ever figure out what was wrong I’m running into the same problem now ?
Hi my name is Alex I have an 89 Ford Mustang Fox body we put a 349 crate it's boarded it's performance how can I get it on right timing help
check crank case pully or balenser fo tdc mark this put on at the factory every eng should have tdc on somthing if its off very much it will not start if starts you are close you need a timming light to see exactly where it firing you do not leave it at tdc most eng run better a few deg before tdc i set up on 4 deg before tdc that desides when it fires the rotor deside where it fires (which plug) the points go open at TDC that starts current flow in coil thru condenser causing coil to generate high voltage spark all this happens very fast,(LOL)
Why set to 30* and not 0*
I'm working on a 1974 Ford F100 302 engine. Im having problems with it not going past 35mph. i have done a vacuum test & timing as well. but still won't go past 35mph
Because it runs bad or the engine runs good but something is limiting it?
Awesome!!!!
So... Click-start Click-start Click-start...feel finger presser? Seems like there's a step or several missing.
What a terrible video. At no point does it show how to verify actual TDC. The title should have been "How to Fit a Distributor".
Lets see how you do a Jeep Cherokee XJ 4.0 with a set distributor
43 years working on cars all my life never heard of "split overlap", is that one of the 57 genders ?
Only heard it called Overlap for the last55 years of my life.
im 88 started tinkering eng at 10 yrs old 5 horse outboard never run into overlap ?????????
What do you mean by setting to number 1 on distributor?
#1 piston
The distributor facing number one
you need a fireing order for your eng to see where each plug wire goes its like clock #6 wire is in 1 oclock spot lift top off dist rotor will be pointing at 1 oclock position if you eng will start and idle you real close you can loosen the bolt that holds dist down if you have deg marks all you need to conn timing light to #6 hold it over crankcase pully see where its flashing mine calls for 4 deg before tdc you slowly rotate dist while watching flash stop rotation on #4 tightion dist bolt
why 30 as apposed to say 12 degrees?
His timing marks are set on degrees 10 degrees = 4
30 degrees = 12
@@bentleycoupe7969 wtf... lol.. 30 degrees btdc is 30 degrees btdc...
@@bentleycoupe7969 lmao WAdafuq, ok why 30° btdc as opposed to 0°tdc?¿
??
Wow
2 ups for a 4 stroke
Dude!! Can I borrow a pen?
BOYS&girls ever used a kleenex/paper towel?, take a piece of paper towel put in #1 plug hole(b carful)
Crank engine compression will blow piece of towel out of plug bore,line up timing mark tdc to pointer
SBC dist rotates clockwise
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2, most sbc
the #1 is around11/12 o clock on cap...pls ck. Hope this helps.
This was too quick for me
Ya if your balancer is correct lol
Lektrik caws goon put holelotta peepols outa jobs
Dude English please.