You have a real gift for teaching. I watched several videos before this one and you explained it far better than anyone else. Something about how you teach resonates with how I learn I suppose. I should have come to you first because this isn't the first time I've ended up finding you to be the one who explains something perfectly. I've learned my lesson this time. I'll subscribe to you and get lesson I was looking for straight away.
Great video! I love seeing different ways people sharpen and the systems they have. I picked up a few tricks from this I will try next time I sharpen my planes, such as ensuring I count out my strokes and shifting the pressure around the plane edge to get a repeatable curve. Super new to this so lots of room to get a system that works for me. Honestly I have been using Paul Sellers method of since that worked best for me with the materials on on hand. I will say to anyone who complains about the tools used... you can do all of this with sandpaper (from re-angling the iron to final super sharp edge) but it will simply take you longer to do it, but if that is what you have use it. As you get better, or are willing to spend more money, you can buy stones and diamond plates and just save yourself more time and improve your edges.
Love your videos Matt. It feels like I've watched a thousand sharpening videos but its never really worked for me. Somehow though yours are different and I think I'm starting to get there.
Thanks to this video and a couple of others I've managed to straighten the curved factory edge on my cheap as chips Record No 4 and got it stupidly sharp. Done with a Faithful 400/1000 diamond sharpner, 10 quid honing guide and homemade strop. Made a protrusion guide block so I can do it again consistently, which is what will save you time and steel rather than being dead on the angles. Never going to do any fine furniture making but enjoy your videos a lot. The transparency and honest style is great. OK where are my Stanley chisels!
the problem is, in the long term, you'll have to reflatten the cutting edge, and the more you use the plane, the less flat your work pieces will turn out. This is over the course of several years of working and recambering/sharpening with the blade though, so for many, its negligible. Me, I just round out the very corners, to stop leaving tracks. So my preference is the opposite of Matt's. It preserves the straightness and flatness of the blade, and gives a much more accurate flat result on your work.
Lumenpraebeo I find that’s ok for smoothing planes, but I prefer a camber on jack and try planes. Also you can’t square up the edge of a board without a camber. Or if you can, I have no idea how...
Great great video. Matt showed how to create a really nice quality edge with the help of a few aids. Purist will say you don’t need aids, but they all use “tools” to get the job done. I’m all for using the best tools to produce the best results without spending all my time preparing my tools. I’d rather be cutting wood. Yes, it is great to learn to freehand all your blades but not everyone is interested in that art. And yes it is an art beyond just tool basic maintenance. I personally would like to see someone do in depth analysis under microscope to see the differences between the edge of a pure free-hander and the edge produced with aids. I think the difference would be astonishing! Again great video Matt. It’s very close to how I learned: 300/1000 diamond plate, 1000/6000 King Stone and a Strop. Seeing how precise your primary bevels are, makes me want to buy a grinder as well.
As a new woodworker, I originally thought I can save few £ on a honing guide and free hand sharpen like loads of guys do. But I could Never! Get plane irons or chisels truly sharp. I was buying old vintage tools at car boot sales etc and didn’t realise how much work they needed. But few £ on a honing guide and now I see what sharp is like, and it is consistent 😁
I am struggling to find a wide enough whet or oil stone for my No.7 plane blade. I saw your links so that I can find from Axminster. Do I really need a lapping plate and what is it for?
I am looking at getting the Stanley Sweetheart low angle jack plane. Do you sharpen that the same way with a 25 degree primary bevel and a 30 degree secondary Bevel?
It's just a jig to quickly tell the distance between the edge of your chisel or plane blade, and the mouth of your chisel guide/ holder. A given distance between the two should always give the same sharpening angle. I just use a ruler to measure, because I know that for my Stanley chisel holder, 25 mm between the mouth of the holder and the cutting edge of the chisel means a sharpening angle of 25°.
good videos, i usually learn something and i like how you start from the verry begenning, not assuming your viewers have any prior knoladge. verry friendly and step by step approch that im sure takes the intimidation out of these subjects for allot of people. I know sharpening can be challanging for many people and is something woodworkers tend to put off untill their tools are unusably dull, then get frustrated with how much work the edges need and give up before there sharp. To this point, i think making sharpening faster and easier is the way to go, so you do it more often. I think people really need to learn to sharpen by hand without jigs. i see all the time that your spending not only using jigs in the first place, but even switching jigs in the middle. fiddling with all that stuff takes allot of time and i think is discouraging to sharpening more often. you could also be spending that time taken up by setting up the jigs to get a really good edge. i know the title says "stupid sharp" but ive sharpened enough to know the edge your getting after just knocking the burr off with a 6k and on to a bit of stropping is nothing to write home about. one of the big disadvantages of using jigs is the inability to work on the back side and then go back to working the bevel. the edge needs further refinement after the burr comes off, more than just stropping will do. I know your passionate about woodworking, i encourage you to step up your sharpening game and learn to freehand.
I've never done this myself but I've seen people do it (on RUclips). Here's a (relatively) quick summary of what I've found: What's important is that you cool the plane blade often during the process. Just have a bowl of water next to the belt sander to dip the blade in. If you let it get too hot, the metal will soften and it won't hold it's edge. If that happens, you can fix it but you have to grind away all the softer metal so you loose a lot of metal that way. You can slow how quickly it heats up by applying les pressure on the blade. If you're careful, you can keep your fingers fairly close to the edge while grinding so you feel it immediately if it's getting hot. Don't do that if you're not 100% sure you can do it safely. If you don't do it that way, just remember that it's better to cool the blade too often than to let it soften. You can recognize the softer metal by the color: if it turns a yellow-ish hue, it's softened a little (but I think it's still usable, don't quote me on that...) but if it's turned a rather lovely shade of blue, you've got to grind the whole bevel again. As for grits, I've seen some use 150, some a little higher, some a little lower. Anything above 100 and below 300 should work fine. I've also seen a few people build jigs to keep the iron at the right angle which seems like a pretty nice idea.
A little late, but the machine itself is a Tormek (don't know the model but looks like one of the bigger ones, T7 maybe?) and the thing that holds the plane blade is the Tormek Square Edge Jig SE77 (or an older variant of it). There's loads of jigs for the Tormek to sharpen almost any kind of tool, and they even offer a 4000 grit japanese stone nowadays. They are very pricey, though.
Matt...Could you post a clear plan for the registration of the honing guide for the angles used...25 and 30...I am referring to your wooden sharpening jig...
Matt, I’ve watched all your videos and picked up quite a few tips I’m glad to say. I’ve just received a Hock plane blade and chipbreaker and was all set to sharpen the chipbreaker until I saw your advice NOT to do so as this could cause problems. Apart from saving me the bother of sharpening the chipbreaker, could you elaborate as to what problems might arise by sharpening said chipbreaker - just curious….. MVH
Just curious, but would I follow these directions for all plane types (Assuming down the road I end up with all the other kinds aside from the low angles or whatever)?
Great video. just a suggestion for you though, when you mention your previous video, have a link to it in the corner or something. makes it easier to find that video and we end up watching more of your stuff :) it might just be me, but I don't find it easy to search through videos to find the one you're referencing.
Good video. I've been laboring for a while over whether or not to get a tormek and, in particular, if it supersedes or compliments the use of water stones. Its clear from your video that its part of your sharpening toolkit. Was wondering what you see as the main advantage of the tormek - is it just speed? Would you use Tormek to help with flattening the backs of 'ly' neelsen chisels?
I have access to one, and the main thing I use it for is repairing damaged blades. Day to day honing, is faster and simpler with a set of stones. I would not try to flatten anything on a wheel, it by nature creates a curve. That is best done a large flat diamond hone.
Don't by a tormek just learn to sharpen on any stones you can find. A little inexpensive honing guide will help get you started (I used to use them) now I just freehand sharpen it's so fast to do, doesn't take up any space in my workshop and I get shaving sharp edges. Takes 15 minutes to sharpen my set of 6 bench chisels and my smoothing plane iron.
Useful info. Unlike many videos, this offers something new and useful. I learned from Paul Sellers, good stuff. But freehand sharpening only works if you do it all the time, otherwise you loose the edge. Your ability to judge the angle fades away, and there’s no point stroping an edge that isn’t already almost perfect. So unless you’re a 1920s craftsman or Paul Sellers, use a jig.
I don't know about that. the blade as it came out of the plane would take about 15 min. start to finish tops with 3 stones a strop. Less mess, less setup, longer life of the iron, and you could still use a guide if you wanted too.
I am by no means an expert or pro. I have a day job, I don't do sharpening "all the time". Maybe I would sharpen a few blades a month max, when I am in the mood for woodworking that month? But Paul Sellers method works for me. Sharp, mirror polished edge in 10 minutes or less with mimum tools (really 3 diamond plates and leather strop on 2x4), no machines. And yes, if cutting hair on back of hand is "stupid sharp", it does get "stupid sharp" too. A guide just gets in the way. (I bought one, but haven't used for more than a year.) The point is that no higher authorities above decided that "25 deg" is the "proper" angle. As long as you are close enough it doesn't matter.
What would one do if their stones aren't as wide as the plane blade besides from buying new stones. Like if you sharpen one side and then move over to the other side and sharpen again. then wouldn't the middle have had more passes than the sides?
When I do grind, which isn't often,(not a tormek, bench grinder w norton 3x I grade and jigs) I gently push the blade to the stone with an ice cube. I dont overgrind/overheat and always finish on dmt plates but its added insurance
He's got water stones not oil, they're softer. So if you push you run the risk of gouging your stone and having to spend a bunch of time flattening the stone again.
1. DMT Lapping Plate (don't use it for sharpening, just for flattening waterstone) 2.Bester Imashi 1,000/6,000 Combination Waterstone 3.Lie Nielsen honing guide with long jaws 4.Cornell Double Sided leather strop 5.Axminster Brand Superfine Honing Paste Also get a stone holder or non slip mat, and a spritz bottle for water, and watch Matt's video on how to make a protrusion stop out of plywood
awesome video, as for all the old schoolies I agree it great to learn the old way to do things so we dont forget but come on! muddy waters invented electricity! (I stole that last line)
When it comes to the ruler trick producing the micro back bevel, at what point do you need to either flatten the back? Or grind the face bevel away enough to remove the back bevel?
A Tormek T8 is nearly £600 and a linisher is £450 (Axminster Trade Ultimate Edge System). Is it worth paying the extra for the Tormek if I'm only going to use it to regrind the primary bevel? I notice the linisher will heat the blade if not regularly quenched in water.
@@richardsinger01 Yup, very strange, indeed. I like the Chinese proverb that says, " Instead of cursing the dark , light a candle !" Ps -- Sorry for the late reply. I saw your comment just a few minutes ago.
@@garethev5866 Same apology to you as I said to Richard Singer. I got a notification from RUclips that I had a reply... And yes, they hide behind the anonymity of RUclips and criticize good people who do their best to share their ideas and expertise... I see a lot of that in comments on music videos ( in which case, it's basically bias and hate).
Hi Matt. Are the bevel angles the same for Bevel up planes like the one you use in your shoulder plane video. Also do I put a secondary bevel on my new Axminster 271 router plane??. Great vids keep em up. Thanks.
Hey Matt great video, I remember using the tormec during my training, just a weeee gripe noticed it in your other video as well, it's pronounced lee nielson, try and make it to one of their open days such fantastic tools :) keep up the good work!
Oh dammit I always get confused with that. Everyone says it differently I never know which pronunciation it is! I really want to come to one of their open days, it's on the list! Cheers mate
Reading some of the comments on this video suggests that a point has been missed. So what if Matt has every tool at his disposal. The fact is he still knows what to do with them. He has a good pair of hands. That's a given. But in this age of You Tube "woodworkers" where some of them are just plain rubbish, it's somewhat refreshing to see someone demonstrating a technique which will be around for just as long. It's a simple fact of life, that if expertise in any field is not passed from one generation to the next, then it will be lost forever. Don't knock what he's doing. It's not what you need to do. But if you wanted to, I think this is a pretty good start.
On the cheap honing guide, the projection distances are printed on the side. The Lie-Nielsen guide I am using has a little booklet that has the projection distances written inside. There are a few articles on how to make them online. Hope that helps!
When you move to the strop how do you know you're not on the hollow ground bevel versus the secondary bevel? If the secondary bevel is so narrow won't the paste squeeze out on both bevels?
Lift the blade up until you see the shadow on the end disappear! The paste is absorbed into the leather so it doesn't matter if the majority squeezes out.
It also does not really matter if you are honing both bevel (you will do the nature of leather), since the girt is fine, just don't lift the iron to high as you can round the edge over.
How would you go on to sharpen blade that needs heavy camber (like one in scrubbing plane). Especially first time when you need to form the large camber?
You just go for it on a bench grinder. Which is about as sketchy as it sounds. But if you have decent muscle coordination you should be able to manage it. I did it with a crappy Stanley Handyman plane I picked up for a buck. It's nothing I'd do with a high end plane. You don't really need to. Rough methods and tools for rough work.
my name is Eric Tyler when I'm sharpening my hand plane blade I'm noticing that the left side isn't sharpening as fast as the other side. I've tried to put more pressure on that side with no success. what am i doing wrong?
Good work, fella. Don't know how I missed this before, and have been too terrified to get the LN62 out of the box. I'll have a crack at this later. I wonder whether the warranty covers dropping the plane blade on a concrete floor the first time you open it?
I was waiting to make a new shooting board (a la Cosman), which I started yesterday PM. Not saying I overdid it with the Titebond, but I actually ended up looking like Randy Marsh in South Park. I'm sure it'll be FINE.
How to make a protrusion stop:
ruclips.net/video/I417VVog0Bc/видео.html
Matt Estlea what kind of bench is that. Do you have plans for it?
Do you need a very specific and expensive tool for that too?
Did you release the video to get rid of the rust?
That’s the most straightforward explanation for creating a camber I’ve ever seen. We’ll done.
Hi Matt, you are a captivating speaker. We can not even blink because there is no fluff and only what is important is said.
Even though I know a lot of these things I still learn more and I refresh my knowledge.
Great tips on sharpening! Thanks Matt.
Hi Matt, thanks for this video. I spent a good few hours sharpening my grandad's plane blade; looks really good for my first attempt!
This is the best video I have seen on sharpening, and I have looked at quite a few.
You have a real gift for teaching. I watched several videos before this one and you explained it far better than anyone else. Something about how you teach resonates with how I learn I suppose. I should have come to you first because this isn't the first time I've ended up finding you to be the one who explains something perfectly. I've learned my lesson this time. I'll subscribe to you and get lesson I was looking for straight away.
I can't believe people gave this the thumbs down - his videos are f**kin ace.
Matt,well done on a comprehensive lesson,you are a natural teacher and you have now got a subscription from me
Always watching from far far noth eastern states of India, i got confident on sharpening plane, good luck, thanks alot
I find your instruction thorough and precise. I’ve become a new subscriber. Thanks man
Excellent presentation. Clear, concise and right to the point.
Great video! I love seeing different ways people sharpen and the systems they have. I picked up a few tricks from this I will try next time I sharpen my planes, such as ensuring I count out my strokes and shifting the pressure around the plane edge to get a repeatable curve. Super new to this so lots of room to get a system that works for me.
Honestly I have been using Paul Sellers method of since that worked best for me with the materials on on hand. I will say to anyone who complains about the tools used... you can do all of this with sandpaper (from re-angling the iron to final super sharp edge) but it will simply take you longer to do it, but if that is what you have use it. As you get better, or are willing to spend more money, you can buy stones and diamond plates and just save yourself more time and improve your edges.
I like how you set your bevel then dress the wheel and changing your setting. Brilliant!
I have learned so very much from your videos! Keep it up Master Matt!
Love your videos Matt. It feels like I've watched a thousand sharpening videos but its never really worked for me. Somehow though yours are different and I think I'm starting to get there.
Lovely! It's all about simplifying and making the process efficient. Best of luck and be sure to send me any questions. Cheers Ian!
Thanks to this video and a couple of others I've managed to straighten the curved factory edge on my cheap as chips Record No 4 and got it stupidly sharp. Done with a Faithful 400/1000 diamond sharpner, 10 quid honing guide and homemade strop. Made a protrusion guide block so I can do it again consistently, which is what will save you time and steel rather than being dead on the angles. Never going to do any fine furniture making but enjoy your videos a lot. The transparency and honest style is great. OK where are my Stanley chisels!
Really love your videos mate, can't wait to watch next about setting up the plane!
I swear! All this time I thought I was the Worlds best Blade sharpener! Absolutely loved this video. Well done, well done
Love your videos! Great tip to develop the camber on the plane blade, I will implement the technique next time i sharpen my blade. Stay awesome!
Glad you found it useful! Cheers Patrik!
Keep 'em coming Matt- nicely done. Thank you.
real handy tools to sharpen blade. Nice job.
Thank you so much. Crystal clear as always!
Great advice thanks
Thanks for being awesome and making cool videos. I’m learning lots. Never mind the pronunciation police. Happy new year.
Thank you Rob, very much appreciated! Happy new year to you too!
the problem is, in the long term, you'll have to reflatten the cutting edge, and the more you use the plane, the less flat your work pieces will turn out. This is over the course of several years of working and recambering/sharpening with the blade though, so for many, its negligible. Me, I just round out the very corners, to stop leaving tracks. So my preference is the opposite of Matt's. It preserves the straightness and flatness of the blade, and gives a much more accurate flat result on your work.
Lumenpraebeo I find that’s ok for smoothing planes, but I prefer a camber on jack and try planes. Also you can’t square up the edge of a board without a camber. Or if you can, I have no idea how...
Ben Askren is a man of many skills .
LOL right..........
You may want to go look up Paul Sellers...
This guy actually has the look of a fighter unlike Ben.....
Check out Rob Cosman for real woodworking tips. 😎
New sub here, love the way you do your videos, and look forward to your next video, thanks mate
Cheers mate!
Matt, Would love to see how you flatten the backs of chisels and plane irons.
Nicely done
Hello Matt. I’ve been new at sharpening chisels and plans. I noticed the stop block with numbers on then. Do you have a video on how to make that
Great great video. Matt showed how to create a really nice quality edge with the help of a few aids.
Purist will say you don’t need aids, but they all use “tools” to get the job done. I’m all for using the best tools to produce the best results without spending all my time preparing my tools. I’d rather be cutting wood.
Yes, it is great to learn to freehand all your blades but not everyone is interested in that art. And yes it is an art beyond just tool basic maintenance.
I personally would like to see someone do in depth analysis under microscope to see the differences between the edge of a pure free-hander and the edge produced with aids. I think the difference would be astonishing!
Again great video Matt. It’s very close to how I learned: 300/1000 diamond plate, 1000/6000 King Stone and a Strop. Seeing how precise your primary bevels are, makes me want to buy a grinder as well.
excellent vids Matt, could you show us how to make that palm screwdriver please
i like the hair better lol. nice work. more power bro
Stupidly perfectionist. Very impressive. Thumbs up.
Thanks for the great tutorial. Do you have a second favorite leather strop? The one you link to is no5 available. Thanks.
As a new woodworker, I originally thought I can save few £ on a honing guide and free hand sharpen like loads of guys do. But I could Never! Get plane irons or chisels truly sharp. I was buying old vintage tools at car boot sales etc and didn’t realise how much work they needed. But few £ on a honing guide and now I see what sharp is like, and it is consistent 😁
I have no interest in any sort of wood work, but I can watch these videos for hours
Stanley make a guide with two rollers which prevents the plane iron from tipping sideways unlike the single roller type.
So I have a knife sharpening jig. We are talking mirror finishing knives. Would that be good for this?
As always a well done and very useful video, do you fancy doing another one sharpening router plane blades?
Great video. does this principle apply to. blade used in a bevel up plane?
Hi Matt great video on sharpening a plane blade very useful , how much is the lapping plate ?
I am struggling to find a wide enough whet or oil stone for my No.7 plane blade. I saw your links so that I can find from Axminster. Do I really need a lapping plate and what is it for?
I am looking at getting the Stanley Sweetheart low angle jack plane. Do you sharpen that the same way with a 25 degree primary bevel and a 30 degree secondary Bevel?
Great video, thank you for sharing!
6:43 how does this stop block made? is there a guide to know where the end of the jig goes? you mentioned someone doing a video about it? link ?
It's just a jig to quickly tell the distance between the edge of your chisel or plane blade, and the mouth of your chisel guide/ holder. A given distance between the two should always give the same sharpening angle.
I just use a ruler to measure, because I know that for my Stanley chisel holder, 25 mm between the mouth of the holder and the cutting edge of the chisel means a sharpening angle of 25°.
thanks matt usefull tips
Complimenti per i video!! Olia le pialle che sono tutte arrugginite poverine!!😜😜🤗🤗🤗🔝🔝
good videos, i usually learn something and i like how you start from the verry begenning, not assuming your viewers have any prior knoladge. verry friendly and step by step approch that im sure takes the intimidation out of these subjects for allot of people.
I know sharpening can be challanging for many people and is something woodworkers tend to put off untill their tools are unusably dull, then get frustrated with how much work the edges need and give up before there sharp. To this point, i think making sharpening faster and easier is the way to go, so you do it more often. I think people really need to learn to sharpen by hand without jigs. i see all the time that your spending not only using jigs in the first place, but even switching jigs in the middle. fiddling with all that stuff takes allot of time and i think is discouraging to sharpening more often.
you could also be spending that time taken up by setting up the jigs to get a really good edge. i know the title says "stupid sharp" but ive sharpened enough to know the edge your getting after just knocking the burr off with a 6k and on to a bit of stropping is nothing to write home about. one of the big disadvantages of using jigs is the inability to work on the back side and then go back to working the bevel. the edge needs further refinement after the burr comes off, more than just stropping will do.
I know your passionate about woodworking, i encourage you to step up your sharpening game and learn to freehand.
Can I use a sanding belt to make primary bevel 30 degrees ? If so, what belt grit would be ok to use please ? 🙏 thank you.
I've never done this myself but I've seen people do it (on RUclips). Here's a (relatively) quick summary of what I've found: What's important is that you cool the plane blade often during the process. Just have a bowl of water next to the belt sander to dip the blade in. If you let it get too hot, the metal will soften and it won't hold it's edge. If that happens, you can fix it but you have to grind away all the softer metal so you loose a lot of metal that way. You can slow how quickly it heats up by applying les pressure on the blade. If you're careful, you can keep your fingers fairly close to the edge while grinding so you feel it immediately if it's getting hot. Don't do that if you're not 100% sure you can do it safely. If you don't do it that way, just remember that it's better to cool the blade too often than to let it soften. You can recognize the softer metal by the color: if it turns a yellow-ish hue, it's softened a little (but I think it's still usable, don't quote me on that...) but if it's turned a rather lovely shade of blue, you've got to grind the whole bevel again. As for grits, I've seen some use 150, some a little higher, some a little lower. Anything above 100 and below 300 should work fine. I've also seen a few people build jigs to keep the iron at the right angle which seems like a pretty nice idea.
I’ve not seen a chip breaker which is flat and sharpened. Is that an American or Canadian version?
What do you coat the blades and your tools with to stop them from rusting? Just WD 40?
Could you please tell me the tools you used at 3:56 to 5:40 I want to buy them, thanks
A little late, but the machine itself is a Tormek (don't know the model but looks like one of the bigger ones, T7 maybe?) and the thing that holds the plane blade is the Tormek Square Edge Jig SE77 (or an older variant of it). There's loads of jigs for the Tormek to sharpen almost any kind of tool, and they even offer a 4000 grit japanese stone nowadays. They are very pricey, though.
@@juhaloukaja5078 thank you, appreciate the response.
Matt, I saw your Tormek, which model do you use? is the 8 better than the 4?
Great video!
What is this door knob looking screwdriver you use to tighten sharpener ?
Hot take: plane with an inverted curve so you take out more on edges and less in the center
Matt...Could you post a clear plan for the registration of the honing guide for the angles used...25 and 30...I am referring to your wooden sharpening jig...
Here you go mate :)
ruclips.net/video/I417VVog0Bc/видео.html
Matt, I’ve watched all your videos and picked up quite a few tips I’m glad to say.
I’ve just received a Hock plane blade and chipbreaker and was all set to sharpen the chipbreaker until I saw your advice NOT to do so as this could cause problems. Apart from saving me the bother of sharpening the chipbreaker, could you elaborate as to what problems might arise by sharpening said chipbreaker - just curious…..
MVH
for his age he sure knows alot, wonder who was the master who taught him? cool vids!
He went to school for this, I think it mentions it in some descriptions.
Just curious, but would I follow these directions for all plane types (Assuming down the road I end up with all the other kinds aside from the low angles or whatever)?
thankyou
Hi Matt, can you please tell me where I can get the screw driver you used to tighten the
Lie Nielsen honing guide from. Thanks.
its from lee-valley (if you google it they've got them - or highland woodworking)
Great video. just a suggestion for you though, when you mention your previous video, have a link to it in the corner or something. makes it easier to find that video and we end up watching more of your stuff :)
it might just be me, but I don't find it easy to search through videos to find the one you're referencing.
thank you kindly! Cheers.
What is the point of a primary bevel?
Good video. I've been laboring for a while over whether or not to get a tormek and, in particular, if it supersedes or compliments the use of water stones. Its clear from your video that its part of your sharpening toolkit. Was wondering what you see as the main advantage of the tormek - is it just speed? Would you use Tormek to help with flattening the backs of 'ly' neelsen chisels?
I have access to one, and the main thing I use it for is repairing damaged blades. Day to day honing, is faster and simpler with a set of stones. I would not try to flatten anything on a wheel, it by nature creates a curve. That is best done a large flat diamond hone.
Don't by a tormek just learn to sharpen on any stones you can find. A little inexpensive honing guide will help get you started (I used to use them) now I just freehand sharpen it's so fast to do, doesn't take up any space in my workshop and I get shaving sharp edges. Takes 15 minutes to sharpen my set of 6 bench chisels and my smoothing plane iron.
Useful info. Unlike many videos, this offers something new and useful. I learned from Paul Sellers, good stuff. But freehand sharpening only works if you do it all the time, otherwise you loose the edge. Your ability to judge the angle fades away, and there’s no point stroping an edge that isn’t already almost perfect. So unless you’re a 1920s craftsman or Paul Sellers, use a jig.
I don't know about that. the blade as it came out of the plane would take about 15 min. start to finish tops with 3 stones a strop. Less mess, less setup, longer life of the iron, and you could still use a guide if you wanted too.
I am by no means an expert or pro. I have a day job, I don't do sharpening "all the time". Maybe I would sharpen a few blades a month max, when I am in the mood for woodworking that month? But Paul Sellers method works for me. Sharp, mirror polished edge in 10 minutes or less with mimum tools (really 3 diamond plates and leather strop on 2x4), no machines. And yes, if cutting hair on back of hand is "stupid sharp", it does get "stupid sharp" too. A guide just gets in the way. (I bought one, but haven't used for more than a year.) The point is that no higher authorities above decided that "25 deg" is the "proper" angle. As long as you are close enough it doesn't matter.
What would one do if their stones aren't as wide as the plane blade besides from buying new stones. Like if you sharpen one side and then move over to the other side and sharpen again. then wouldn't the middle have had more passes than the sides?
When I do grind, which isn't often,(not a tormek, bench grinder w norton 3x I grade and jigs) I gently push the blade to the stone with an ice cube. I dont overgrind/overheat and always finish on dmt plates but its added insurance
thanks
great videos
8:42--Pulling the blade on the flat stone creates a burr. Pushing the blade on the flat stone prevents the forming of a burr.
He's got water stones not oil, they're softer. So if you push you run the risk of gouging your stone and having to spend a bunch of time flattening the stone again.
do the roundness of the wheel affect the blade?it will have a slope ?
2 years late but it does leave a hollow grind. still a damn fine edge though
is this the same for a jack plane iron?
What are the exact brands and specifications of: 1. Diamond stone. 2. Waterstone. 3.Blade guide. 4. Strop 5. Paste. and if it's anything else. Thanks.
1. DMT Lapping Plate (don't use it for sharpening, just for flattening waterstone)
2.Bester Imashi 1,000/6,000 Combination Waterstone
3.Lie Nielsen honing guide with long jaws
4.Cornell Double Sided leather strop
5.Axminster Brand Superfine Honing Paste
Also get a stone holder or non slip mat, and a spritz bottle for water, and watch Matt's video on how to make a protrusion stop out of plywood
What's the name of that paste?
awesome video, as for all the old schoolies I agree it great to learn the old way to do things so we dont forget but come on! muddy waters invented electricity! (I stole that last line)
What if I don't have a grinder?
When it comes to the ruler trick producing the micro back bevel, at what point do you need to either flatten the back? Or grind the face bevel away enough to remove the back bevel?
A Tormek T8 is nearly £600 and a linisher is £450 (Axminster Trade Ultimate Edge System). Is it worth paying the extra for the Tormek if I'm only going to use it to regrind the primary bevel? I notice the linisher will heat the blade if not regularly quenched in water.
lever cap to undo the breaker and the blade?
Generally speaking, I've noticed that once one person posts a negative comment, many others will follow suit--and vice versa !
Adel Keryakos yes, often making exactly the same comment. Strange, isn’t it?
It makes em brave
@@richardsinger01
Yup, very strange, indeed. I like the Chinese proverb that says, " Instead of cursing the dark , light a candle !"
Ps -- Sorry for the late reply. I saw your comment just a few minutes ago.
@@garethev5866
Same apology to you as I said to Richard Singer. I got a notification from RUclips that I had a reply...
And yes, they hide behind the anonymity of RUclips and criticize good people who do their best to share their ideas and expertise... I see a lot of that in comments on music videos ( in which case, it's basically bias and hate).
Hi Matt. Are the bevel angles the same for Bevel up planes like the one you use in your shoulder plane video. Also do I put a secondary bevel on my new Axminster 271 router plane??. Great vids keep em up. Thanks.
Hey Matt great video, I remember using the tormec during my training, just a weeee gripe noticed it in your other video as well, it's pronounced lee nielson, try and make it to one of their open days such fantastic tools :) keep up the good work!
Oh dammit I always get confused with that. Everyone says it differently I never know which pronunciation it is! I really want to come to one of their open days, it's on the list! Cheers mate
tomatos
Tomaaaartoes!
Aye... it be tomaaarrghtoes.
☠
What diamond stone are you using for flattening your water stones?
Pretty sure his good ones are made by DMT (diamond manufacturing
How can I be sure that the blade and the side is 90 degrees? I use a tormek and sharpening stone with honing guide
Reading some of the comments on this video suggests that a point has been missed. So what if Matt has every tool at his disposal. The fact is he still knows what to do with them. He has a good pair of hands. That's a given. But in this age of You Tube "woodworkers" where some of them are just plain rubbish, it's somewhat refreshing to see someone demonstrating a technique which will be around for just as long.
It's a simple fact of life, that if expertise in any field is not passed from one generation to the next, then it will be lost forever. Don't knock what he's doing. It's not what you need to do. But if you wanted to, I think this is a pretty good start.
Do you have the specs for the jig you made to set the angle?
On the cheap honing guide, the projection distances are printed on the side. The Lie-Nielsen guide I am using has a little booklet that has the projection distances written inside. There are a few articles on how to make them online. Hope that helps!
Just did a video on it Paul:
ruclips.net/video/I417VVog0Bc/видео.html
When you move to the strop how do you know you're not on the hollow ground bevel versus the secondary bevel? If the secondary bevel is so narrow won't the paste squeeze out on both bevels?
Lift the blade up until you see the shadow on the end disappear! The paste is absorbed into the leather so it doesn't matter if the majority squeezes out.
Thank you.
It also does not really matter if you are honing both bevel (you will do the nature of leather), since the girt is fine, just don't lift the iron to high as you can round the edge over.
where did you get that screw driver?!
Lie- neilson i bet, $199.99 plus tax.
How would you go on to sharpen blade that needs heavy camber (like one in scrubbing plane). Especially first time when you need to form the large camber?
Davorin Ruševljan look up Paul sellers video
You just go for it on a bench grinder. Which is about as sketchy as it sounds. But if you have decent muscle coordination you should be able to manage it. I did it with a crappy Stanley Handyman plane I picked up for a buck. It's nothing I'd do with a high end plane. You don't really need to. Rough methods and tools for rough work.
What do you do if you’ve watched this video AFTER you’ve contaminated the fine side of your stone?
my name is Eric Tyler when I'm sharpening my hand plane blade I'm noticing that the left side isn't sharpening as fast as the other side. I've tried to put more pressure on that side with no success. what am i doing wrong?
Why do you need a secondary bevel?
So you don't spend your life sharpening.
Heya Matt, great stuff, thanks for sharing! How much would such sharpening set cost? 1000/6000 stone + flattening stone?
where i live about 120€ for the stone and diamond flattening stone
@@darioranft9148 thanks for the answer!
What is that siren sounding noise that keeps going off in the background?
Oi! You got a loicense for 'at plane blade??
Good work, fella. Don't know how I missed this before, and have been too terrified to get the LN62 out of the box. I'll have a crack at this later. I wonder whether the warranty covers dropping the plane blade on a concrete floor the first time you open it?
You still haven’t used it?! You won’t be able to put it down once you get started. Hope the hangover has worn off by now!
I was waiting to make a new shooting board (a la Cosman), which I started yesterday PM. Not saying I overdid it with the Titebond, but I actually ended up looking like Randy Marsh in South Park. I'm sure it'll be FINE.
😂😂
would make a good video showing how you would look after your tools such as getting the rust of them as you said in the video you would make a video
Nice video Matt, shame about the neg comments.