You have a real gift for teaching. I watched several videos before this one and you explained it far better than anyone else. Something about how you teach resonates with how I learn I suppose. I should have come to you first because this isn't the first time I've ended up finding you to be the one who explains something perfectly. I've learned my lesson this time. I'll subscribe to you and get lesson I was looking for straight away.
Thanks to this video and a couple of others I've managed to straighten the curved factory edge on my cheap as chips Record No 4 and got it stupidly sharp. Done with a Faithful 400/1000 diamond sharpner, 10 quid honing guide and homemade strop. Made a protrusion guide block so I can do it again consistently, which is what will save you time and steel rather than being dead on the angles. Never going to do any fine furniture making but enjoy your videos a lot. The transparency and honest style is great. OK where are my Stanley chisels!
Love your videos Matt. It feels like I've watched a thousand sharpening videos but its never really worked for me. Somehow though yours are different and I think I'm starting to get there.
the problem is, in the long term, you'll have to reflatten the cutting edge, and the more you use the plane, the less flat your work pieces will turn out. This is over the course of several years of working and recambering/sharpening with the blade though, so for many, its negligible. Me, I just round out the very corners, to stop leaving tracks. So my preference is the opposite of Matt's. It preserves the straightness and flatness of the blade, and gives a much more accurate flat result on your work.
Lumenpraebeo I find that’s ok for smoothing planes, but I prefer a camber on jack and try planes. Also you can’t square up the edge of a board without a camber. Or if you can, I have no idea how...
Great great video. Matt showed how to create a really nice quality edge with the help of a few aids. Purist will say you don’t need aids, but they all use “tools” to get the job done. I’m all for using the best tools to produce the best results without spending all my time preparing my tools. I’d rather be cutting wood. Yes, it is great to learn to freehand all your blades but not everyone is interested in that art. And yes it is an art beyond just tool basic maintenance. I personally would like to see someone do in depth analysis under microscope to see the differences between the edge of a pure free-hander and the edge produced with aids. I think the difference would be astonishing! Again great video Matt. It’s very close to how I learned: 300/1000 diamond plate, 1000/6000 King Stone and a Strop. Seeing how precise your primary bevels are, makes me want to buy a grinder as well.
As a new woodworker, I originally thought I can save few £ on a honing guide and free hand sharpen like loads of guys do. But I could Never! Get plane irons or chisels truly sharp. I was buying old vintage tools at car boot sales etc and didn’t realise how much work they needed. But few £ on a honing guide and now I see what sharp is like, and it is consistent 😁
Sweet! So all I need is a $150 diamond plate, a $700 Tormek, $300 in Japanese whetstones and I'll be able to get my $100 plane iron hella sharp. Really, good on you for making this but anyone in a position to have all that probably won't need a video on how to use it all. Where's a video for guys who have some sandpaper, a flat surface, a honing guide and maybe a stone or two?
I am struggling to find a wide enough whet or oil stone for my No.7 plane blade. I saw your links so that I can find from Axminster. Do I really need a lapping plate and what is it for?
1. DMT Lapping Plate (don't use it for sharpening, just for flattening waterstone) 2.Bester Imashi 1,000/6,000 Combination Waterstone 3.Lie Nielsen honing guide with long jaws 4.Cornell Double Sided leather strop 5.Axminster Brand Superfine Honing Paste Also get a stone holder or non slip mat, and a spritz bottle for water, and watch Matt's video on how to make a protrusion stop out of plywood
It's just a jig to quickly tell the distance between the edge of your chisel or plane blade, and the mouth of your chisel guide/ holder. A given distance between the two should always give the same sharpening angle. I just use a ruler to measure, because I know that for my Stanley chisel holder, 25 mm between the mouth of the holder and the cutting edge of the chisel means a sharpening angle of 25°.
What would one do if their stones aren't as wide as the plane blade besides from buying new stones. Like if you sharpen one side and then move over to the other side and sharpen again. then wouldn't the middle have had more passes than the sides?
my name is Eric Tyler when I'm sharpening my hand plane blade I'm noticing that the left side isn't sharpening as fast as the other side. I've tried to put more pressure on that side with no success. what am i doing wrong?
awesome video, as for all the old schoolies I agree it great to learn the old way to do things so we dont forget but come on! muddy waters invented electricity! (I stole that last line)
So, uh, I tried the ol' shave the hair off of your hand trick after sharpening. Well, the corner dug in ever so slightly... and I shit you not, the blade started taking a ribbon out of my hand. I saw it, just a gossamer wisp of a thing, and for a split second, I was mesmerized by the sight. I never even felt it. My hand didn't even know to bleed until a few seconds later. It wasn't deep at all, but yeah, the method gets a blade sharp as fuuuck. - (I suppose that particular blade has officially been christened).
Just curious, but would I follow these directions for all plane types (Assuming down the road I end up with all the other kinds aside from the low angles or whatever)?
Matt...Could you post a clear plan for the registration of the honing guide for the angles used...25 and 30...I am referring to your wooden sharpening jig...
Reading some of the comments on this video suggests that a point has been missed. So what if Matt has every tool at his disposal. The fact is he still knows what to do with them. He has a good pair of hands. That's a given. But in this age of You Tube "woodworkers" where some of them are just plain rubbish, it's somewhat refreshing to see someone demonstrating a technique which will be around for just as long. It's a simple fact of life, that if expertise in any field is not passed from one generation to the next, then it will be lost forever. Don't knock what he's doing. It's not what you need to do. But if you wanted to, I think this is a pretty good start.
When it comes to the ruler trick producing the micro back bevel, at what point do you need to either flatten the back? Or grind the face bevel away enough to remove the back bevel?
A Tormek T8 is nearly £600 and a linisher is £450 (Axminster Trade Ultimate Edge System). Is it worth paying the extra for the Tormek if I'm only going to use it to regrind the primary bevel? I notice the linisher will heat the blade if not regularly quenched in water.
I use a bit of broken sandstone grinding wheel, a piece of slate, both lubricated with water, and a leather strop. No jigs, just well trained hands. This will not work with high carbon steel.
He's got water stones not oil, they're softer. So if you push you run the risk of gouging your stone and having to spend a bunch of time flattening the stone again.
Yea I know what you mean. I ended up buying a kitchen knife jig to help it earn its place. Perhaps look in the local area and see if anyone needs sharpening services for chisels, knives and plane blades. We have a lot of people at come into the store where I work needing blades reground.
But if you do woodturning or if you work with hard woods with a lot of tools it pays itself, i mean, i need one and i know it's potential (my woodworking school has two t8s) and i'm really gonna get one! Of course for primary bevels it's non necessary but you sharpen everything in a perfect way till razor sharp
Tormek is over priced & redundant outdated outmoded technology since Electroplated steel grinding wheels coated with CBN (Cubic Boron Nitride) came into production for your bench grinder. 2nd in hardness only to diamond, they grind COLD for High Speed Steel & Tool Steel. You can hold your hand near the cutting edge being ground & it barely gets warm to the touch. It WONT make the corners or edge turn blue & ruin the temper of the steel the way a aluminium oxide wheel does! There’s no longer ANY need for wet grinding! Diamond wheels are still used for tungsten carbide & CBN for HSS & Tool Steel. Diamond wheels clog up with grinding swarf & then heat up & need to be “cleaned” using a aluminium oxide stick, whereas CBN doesn’t clog or get warm or need cleaning. CBN wheels will make Tormek systems redundant pieces of over priced junk you can’t give away let alone sell.
I wish someone can make a RUclips Video showing that even the western style hand planer can create the shiny mirror like finish that Japanese planer can....
I've never done this myself but I've seen people do it (on RUclips). Here's a (relatively) quick summary of what I've found: What's important is that you cool the plane blade often during the process. Just have a bowl of water next to the belt sander to dip the blade in. If you let it get too hot, the metal will soften and it won't hold it's edge. If that happens, you can fix it but you have to grind away all the softer metal so you loose a lot of metal that way. You can slow how quickly it heats up by applying les pressure on the blade. If you're careful, you can keep your fingers fairly close to the edge while grinding so you feel it immediately if it's getting hot. Don't do that if you're not 100% sure you can do it safely. If you don't do it that way, just remember that it's better to cool the blade too often than to let it soften. You can recognize the softer metal by the color: if it turns a yellow-ish hue, it's softened a little (but I think it's still usable, don't quote me on that...) but if it's turned a rather lovely shade of blue, you've got to grind the whole bevel again. As for grits, I've seen some use 150, some a little higher, some a little lower. Anything above 100 and below 300 should work fine. I've also seen a few people build jigs to keep the iron at the right angle which seems like a pretty nice idea.
There is a great "in between", between hand sharpening the coarse bevel and tormec. Use a bench grinder with the big back slow wet stone, works fine for getting that primary bevel, and they are very inexpensive (35€). You WON'T ruin the steel. The simplest wood block with an angle cut on the end works fine as a jig too. Best value solution I think.
So I started watching this series through your website, and you keep saying I talked about this in my previous videos. Which you didn't if you follow the series on your website, I quess I will see if I get to finding them in your youtube list. But I thought just to let you know you're referencing to things that are not on your website.
Hey Matt great video, I remember using the tormec during my training, just a weeee gripe noticed it in your other video as well, it's pronounced lee nielson, try and make it to one of their open days such fantastic tools :) keep up the good work!
Oh dammit I always get confused with that. Everyone says it differently I never know which pronunciation it is! I really want to come to one of their open days, it's on the list! Cheers mate
This is a good video, but I wonder how much different it would have been if the cap would have been set at £100 worth of kit? That would be a very different video and certainly more in line with many of the people checking out this video. How many people really have access to this much dosh?!
Hi Matt. Are the bevel angles the same for Bevel up planes like the one you use in your shoulder plane video. Also do I put a secondary bevel on my new Axminster 271 router plane??. Great vids keep em up. Thanks.
Good video. I've been laboring for a while over whether or not to get a tormek and, in particular, if it supersedes or compliments the use of water stones. Its clear from your video that its part of your sharpening toolkit. Was wondering what you see as the main advantage of the tormek - is it just speed? Would you use Tormek to help with flattening the backs of 'ly' neelsen chisels?
I have access to one, and the main thing I use it for is repairing damaged blades. Day to day honing, is faster and simpler with a set of stones. I would not try to flatten anything on a wheel, it by nature creates a curve. That is best done a large flat diamond hone.
Don't by a tormek just learn to sharpen on any stones you can find. A little inexpensive honing guide will help get you started (I used to use them) now I just freehand sharpen it's so fast to do, doesn't take up any space in my workshop and I get shaving sharp edges. Takes 15 minutes to sharpen my set of 6 bench chisels and my smoothing plane iron.
How would you go on to sharpen blade that needs heavy camber (like one in scrubbing plane). Especially first time when you need to form the large camber?
You just go for it on a bench grinder. Which is about as sketchy as it sounds. But if you have decent muscle coordination you should be able to manage it. I did it with a crappy Stanley Handyman plane I picked up for a buck. It's nothing I'd do with a high end plane. You don't really need to. Rough methods and tools for rough work.
When you move to the strop how do you know you're not on the hollow ground bevel versus the secondary bevel? If the secondary bevel is so narrow won't the paste squeeze out on both bevels?
Lift the blade up until you see the shadow on the end disappear! The paste is absorbed into the leather so it doesn't matter if the majority squeezes out.
It also does not really matter if you are honing both bevel (you will do the nature of leather), since the girt is fine, just don't lift the iron to high as you can round the edge over.
Excuse...stupidly fast...but that does not quite work...Appreciate the time you have put in Matt...Clearly shows in all your work...I am just finishing up what I would call a huge slab table...spalted alder...8 feet by 42 inches...about 2 inches thick...My 5 year old grandson and I planned the 3 slabs down to what I considered a good enough level...I could not imagine all the dust had I used a sander...Thank you
A little late, but the machine itself is a Tormek (don't know the model but looks like one of the bigger ones, T7 maybe?) and the thing that holds the plane blade is the Tormek Square Edge Jig SE77 (or an older variant of it). There's loads of jigs for the Tormek to sharpen almost any kind of tool, and they even offer a 4000 grit japanese stone nowadays. They are very pricey, though.
Really enjoy your video, but please for the love of God its pronounced Lee Neelsen!! From Wikipedia "In the late 1970s, Thomas Lie-Nielsen (pronounced "Lee-Neelsen"[2]) worked for Garry Chin's company, Garrett Wade. In 1981, Garrett Wade's supplier of an adapted Stanley #95 edge trimming block plane, Ken Wisner, was ready to leave the business, so Lie-Nielsen acquired the tooling, plans and components necessary for producing the #95.[3]" Keep up the great work!
Garrrghhhh I always confuse myself with it! Everyone bloody says it differently! The next batch of videos I film will have the correct pronunciation. Cheers!
Tormek's new flat blade an chisel holder is designed to put a beautiful consistent camber or straight edge. The new jig has two screws at one end that allow custom camber setting! It is a great new jig from the jig masters at tormek. This is the link to the new chisel jig from tormek the se 77. ruclips.net/video/Bfd-xzOF5sc/видео.html
Haven't used a King Waterstone before so I can only vouch for the Bester unfortunately. I think my next purchase is going to be a 3000/8000 combination from Ohishi because It's what a lot of folks recommend.
Tormek suck, I have one and the supporting bar was made from regular steel with nickel coating, needless to say the bar rusted, after 12 months, obviously a design fault, Tormek released a Stainless version of the bar and made you pay $150 for this even though the original steel bar was not suitable for the job.
It is a blue model, was not happy such an expensive machine $700+ then had to spend another $150 to replace a faulty designed part, it is a good machine but this part should have been upgraded for free as it was an oversight in manufacturing.
Sure did, they were not interested (Typical Australian distributor), therefore I never recommended their machine to anyone, I now use the WorkSharp WS3000 to get the initial grind, then to the wet-stone, My Tormek sit's in a box, BTW great informative videos keep them coming
When it's all completely uniform again! Have a quick look at my previous video on sharpening chisels. I do close ups on what the bevel should look like after re-grinding.
So then, what's your thoughts around a triple bevel on a plane blade? The guys in the workshop have been at each other's throats over this one. We have three camps, No.1 says it's nonsense, No.2 says it's a must and No.3 says only on certain types of plane. They'll listen to you. Put this on to bed would you? Cheers, Mx
i like your cambering technique, similar to rob cossmans but more detailed. being a dedicated freehand sharpener i will have to see if i can hold an accurate secondary bevel and apply pressure consistantly to those points. so far i just round the corners on my smoothing plane as paul sellers suggests, and leave the rest of the edge flat with no microbevel. I generally dont like exagerated claims or titles like "stupid sharp" unless someones going to back it up with non subjective tests. a little arm hair shaving isnt going to cut it. show it splitting some hairs or do a string cutting test against a controll (feather carbon steel double edged razor blade is a common "super sharp" controll) and i will be impressed. Otherwise im guessing its just a usable edge, nothing special. also what you are calling the cap iron is actually the lever cap, the cap iron is another (probably more correct) term for the chip breaker.
hello Matt, if i grinde a chisel or a planeblade on a tormac at 25 and then go to the guide and set it at 30 degr like you do its not ok. the tormac grinder at 25 deg is 30/31degr on de H guide ? I set my bevelbox on it on the grinder and yes 30 degr . the degr guide is not write at the tormac i grind at 20 degr and then on the bevelbox i have 25. strange ....if i grinde at 25 with degr guide and go to my prot stop at 30 i do not have a sec bevel but a start over again grinding? IF I GRINDE FLAT ON THE DIAMOND STONES AT25 AND GO TO MY PROTSTOP AT 30 THEN ITS OK . IS THERE A DEFR FLAT OR HOLLOW GRIND ANGLE GUIDE? SORRY FOR MY ENGLISH.
How to make a protrusion stop:
ruclips.net/video/I417VVog0Bc/видео.html
Matt Estlea what kind of bench is that. Do you have plans for it?
Do you need a very specific and expensive tool for that too?
Did you release the video to get rid of the rust?
That’s the most straightforward explanation for creating a camber I’ve ever seen. We’ll done.
Hi Matt, you are a captivating speaker. We can not even blink because there is no fluff and only what is important is said.
This is the best video I have seen on sharpening, and I have looked at quite a few.
I can't believe people gave this the thumbs down - his videos are f**kin ace.
You have a real gift for teaching. I watched several videos before this one and you explained it far better than anyone else. Something about how you teach resonates with how I learn I suppose. I should have come to you first because this isn't the first time I've ended up finding you to be the one who explains something perfectly. I've learned my lesson this time. I'll subscribe to you and get lesson I was looking for straight away.
Thanks to this video and a couple of others I've managed to straighten the curved factory edge on my cheap as chips Record No 4 and got it stupidly sharp. Done with a Faithful 400/1000 diamond sharpner, 10 quid honing guide and homemade strop. Made a protrusion guide block so I can do it again consistently, which is what will save you time and steel rather than being dead on the angles. Never going to do any fine furniture making but enjoy your videos a lot. The transparency and honest style is great. OK where are my Stanley chisels!
I swear! All this time I thought I was the Worlds best Blade sharpener! Absolutely loved this video. Well done, well done
I like how you set your bevel then dress the wheel and changing your setting. Brilliant!
Matt,well done on a comprehensive lesson,you are a natural teacher and you have now got a subscription from me
Love your videos Matt. It feels like I've watched a thousand sharpening videos but its never really worked for me. Somehow though yours are different and I think I'm starting to get there.
Lovely! It's all about simplifying and making the process efficient. Best of luck and be sure to send me any questions. Cheers Ian!
Ben Askren is a man of many skills .
LOL right..........
You may want to go look up Paul Sellers...
This guy actually has the look of a fighter unlike Ben.....
Check out Rob Cosman for real woodworking tips. 😎
I find your instruction thorough and precise. I’ve become a new subscriber. Thanks man
Really love your videos mate, can't wait to watch next about setting up the plane!
Great advice thanks
the problem is, in the long term, you'll have to reflatten the cutting edge, and the more you use the plane, the less flat your work pieces will turn out. This is over the course of several years of working and recambering/sharpening with the blade though, so for many, its negligible. Me, I just round out the very corners, to stop leaving tracks. So my preference is the opposite of Matt's. It preserves the straightness and flatness of the blade, and gives a much more accurate flat result on your work.
Lumenpraebeo I find that’s ok for smoothing planes, but I prefer a camber on jack and try planes. Also you can’t square up the edge of a board without a camber. Or if you can, I have no idea how...
Thank you so much. Crystal clear as always!
Matt, Would love to see how you flatten the backs of chisels and plane irons.
I have no interest in any sort of wood work, but I can watch these videos for hours
Love your videos! Great tip to develop the camber on the plane blade, I will implement the technique next time i sharpen my blade. Stay awesome!
Glad you found it useful! Cheers Patrik!
Great great video. Matt showed how to create a really nice quality edge with the help of a few aids.
Purist will say you don’t need aids, but they all use “tools” to get the job done. I’m all for using the best tools to produce the best results without spending all my time preparing my tools. I’d rather be cutting wood.
Yes, it is great to learn to freehand all your blades but not everyone is interested in that art. And yes it is an art beyond just tool basic maintenance.
I personally would like to see someone do in depth analysis under microscope to see the differences between the edge of a pure free-hander and the edge produced with aids. I think the difference would be astonishing!
Again great video Matt. It’s very close to how I learned: 300/1000 diamond plate, 1000/6000 King Stone and a Strop. Seeing how precise your primary bevels are, makes me want to buy a grinder as well.
Thanks for being awesome and making cool videos. I’m learning lots. Never mind the pronunciation police. Happy new year.
Thank you Rob, very much appreciated! Happy new year to you too!
As a new woodworker, I originally thought I can save few £ on a honing guide and free hand sharpen like loads of guys do. But I could Never! Get plane irons or chisels truly sharp. I was buying old vintage tools at car boot sales etc and didn’t realise how much work they needed. But few £ on a honing guide and now I see what sharp is like, and it is consistent 😁
Stupidly perfectionist. Very impressive. Thumbs up.
i like the hair better lol. nice work. more power bro
excellent vids Matt, could you show us how to make that palm screwdriver please
The things you end up watching mid splif.
Great video, thank you for sharing!
thanks matt usefull tips
for his age he sure knows alot, wonder who was the master who taught him? cool vids!
He went to school for this, I think it mentions it in some descriptions.
Even though I know a lot of these things I still learn more and I refresh my knowledge.
Great tips on sharpening! Thanks Matt.
Thanks for the great tutorial. Do you have a second favorite leather strop? The one you link to is no5 available. Thanks.
thank you kindly! Cheers.
What if I don't have a grinder?
Sweet! So all I need is a $150 diamond plate, a $700 Tormek, $300 in Japanese whetstones and I'll be able to get my $100 plane iron hella sharp.
Really, good on you for making this but anyone in a position to have all that probably won't need a video on how to use it all.
Where's a video for guys who have some sandpaper, a flat surface, a honing guide and maybe a stone or two?
I am struggling to find a wide enough whet or oil stone for my No.7 plane blade. I saw your links so that I can find from Axminster. Do I really need a lapping plate and what is it for?
What are the exact brands and specifications of: 1. Diamond stone. 2. Waterstone. 3.Blade guide. 4. Strop 5. Paste. and if it's anything else. Thanks.
1. DMT Lapping Plate (don't use it for sharpening, just for flattening waterstone)
2.Bester Imashi 1,000/6,000 Combination Waterstone
3.Lie Nielsen honing guide with long jaws
4.Cornell Double Sided leather strop
5.Axminster Brand Superfine Honing Paste
Also get a stone holder or non slip mat, and a spritz bottle for water, and watch Matt's video on how to make a protrusion stop out of plywood
6:43 how does this stop block made? is there a guide to know where the end of the jig goes? you mentioned someone doing a video about it? link ?
It's just a jig to quickly tell the distance between the edge of your chisel or plane blade, and the mouth of your chisel guide/ holder. A given distance between the two should always give the same sharpening angle.
I just use a ruler to measure, because I know that for my Stanley chisel holder, 25 mm between the mouth of the holder and the cutting edge of the chisel means a sharpening angle of 25°.
What would one do if their stones aren't as wide as the plane blade besides from buying new stones. Like if you sharpen one side and then move over to the other side and sharpen again. then wouldn't the middle have had more passes than the sides?
my name is Eric Tyler when I'm sharpening my hand plane blade I'm noticing that the left side isn't sharpening as fast as the other side. I've tried to put more pressure on that side with no success. what am i doing wrong?
awesome video, as for all the old schoolies I agree it great to learn the old way to do things so we dont forget but come on! muddy waters invented electricity! (I stole that last line)
As always a well done and very useful video, do you fancy doing another one sharpening router plane blades?
So, uh, I tried the ol' shave the hair off of your hand trick after sharpening. Well, the corner dug in ever so slightly... and I shit you not, the blade started taking a ribbon out of my hand.
I saw it, just a gossamer wisp of a thing, and for a split second, I was mesmerized by the sight. I never even felt it. My hand didn't even know to bleed until a few seconds later.
It wasn't deep at all, but yeah, the method gets a blade sharp as fuuuck. - (I suppose that particular blade has officially been christened).
What do you coat the blades and your tools with to stop them from rusting? Just WD 40?
great videos
What do you do if you’ve watched this video AFTER you’ve contaminated the fine side of your stone?
Man! Too profesional. Over the top for me that only have a roughly 380 stone, hahaha.
But, nice work.
Just check out Paul Sellers for plane sharpening, a much sharper job with more experience and a lot less money involved ;-)
Just curious, but would I follow these directions for all plane types (Assuming down the road I end up with all the other kinds aside from the low angles or whatever)?
Matt...Could you post a clear plan for the registration of the honing guide for the angles used...25 and 30...I am referring to your wooden sharpening jig...
Here you go mate :)
ruclips.net/video/I417VVog0Bc/видео.html
Reading some of the comments on this video suggests that a point has been missed. So what if Matt has every tool at his disposal. The fact is he still knows what to do with them. He has a good pair of hands. That's a given. But in this age of You Tube "woodworkers" where some of them are just plain rubbish, it's somewhat refreshing to see someone demonstrating a technique which will be around for just as long.
It's a simple fact of life, that if expertise in any field is not passed from one generation to the next, then it will be lost forever. Don't knock what he's doing. It's not what you need to do. But if you wanted to, I think this is a pretty good start.
would make a good video showing how you would look after your tools such as getting the rust of them as you said in the video you would make a video
Hi Matt great video on sharpening a plane blade very useful , how much is the lapping plate ?
Great video. does this principle apply to. blade used in a bevel up plane?
Matt, I saw your Tormek, which model do you use? is the 8 better than the 4?
When it comes to the ruler trick producing the micro back bevel, at what point do you need to either flatten the back? Or grind the face bevel away enough to remove the back bevel?
A Tormek T8 is nearly £600 and a linisher is £450 (Axminster Trade Ultimate Edge System). Is it worth paying the extra for the Tormek if I'm only going to use it to regrind the primary bevel? I notice the linisher will heat the blade if not regularly quenched in water.
I use a bit of broken sandstone grinding wheel, a piece of slate, both lubricated with water, and a leather strop. No jigs, just well trained hands. This will not work with high carbon steel.
8:42--Pulling the blade on the flat stone creates a burr. Pushing the blade on the flat stone prevents the forming of a burr.
He's got water stones not oil, they're softer. So if you push you run the risk of gouging your stone and having to spend a bunch of time flattening the stone again.
I too own a Tormek, but am finding it an awfully expensive and space-consuming tool if only used for primary bevels.
Yea I know what you mean. I ended up buying a kitchen knife jig to help it earn its place. Perhaps look in the local area and see if anyone needs sharpening services for chisels, knives and plane blades. We have a lot of people at come into the store where I work needing blades reground.
But if you do woodturning or if you work with hard woods with a lot of tools it pays itself, i mean, i need one and i know it's potential (my woodworking school has two t8s) and i'm really gonna get one! Of course for primary bevels it's non necessary but you sharpen everything in a perfect way till razor sharp
Tormek is over priced & redundant outdated outmoded technology since Electroplated steel grinding wheels coated with CBN (Cubic Boron Nitride) came into production for your bench grinder. 2nd in hardness only to diamond, they grind COLD for High Speed Steel & Tool Steel. You can hold your hand near the cutting edge being ground & it barely gets warm to the touch. It WONT make the corners or edge turn blue & ruin the temper of the steel the way a aluminium oxide wheel does!
There’s no longer ANY need for wet grinding!
Diamond wheels are still used for tungsten carbide & CBN for HSS & Tool Steel.
Diamond wheels clog up with grinding swarf & then heat up & need to be “cleaned” using a aluminium oxide stick, whereas CBN doesn’t clog or get warm or need cleaning.
CBN wheels will make Tormek systems redundant pieces of over priced junk you can’t give away let alone sell.
Great video!
What is this door knob looking screwdriver you use to tighten sharpener ?
I wish someone can make a RUclips Video showing that even the western style hand planer can create the shiny mirror like finish that Japanese planer can....
What is the point of a primary bevel?
So sharpening my chisel blades on the macadam in my driveway is a bad thing? I dunno...I only need to use a 3lb mallet to getem to cut! G>
Can I use a sanding belt to make primary bevel 30 degrees ? If so, what belt grit would be ok to use please ? 🙏 thank you.
I've never done this myself but I've seen people do it (on RUclips). Here's a (relatively) quick summary of what I've found: What's important is that you cool the plane blade often during the process. Just have a bowl of water next to the belt sander to dip the blade in. If you let it get too hot, the metal will soften and it won't hold it's edge. If that happens, you can fix it but you have to grind away all the softer metal so you loose a lot of metal that way. You can slow how quickly it heats up by applying les pressure on the blade. If you're careful, you can keep your fingers fairly close to the edge while grinding so you feel it immediately if it's getting hot. Don't do that if you're not 100% sure you can do it safely. If you don't do it that way, just remember that it's better to cool the blade too often than to let it soften. You can recognize the softer metal by the color: if it turns a yellow-ish hue, it's softened a little (but I think it's still usable, don't quote me on that...) but if it's turned a rather lovely shade of blue, you've got to grind the whole bevel again. As for grits, I've seen some use 150, some a little higher, some a little lower. Anything above 100 and below 300 should work fine. I've also seen a few people build jigs to keep the iron at the right angle which seems like a pretty nice idea.
There is a great "in between", between hand sharpening the coarse bevel and tormec. Use a bench grinder with the big back slow wet stone, works fine for getting that primary bevel, and they are very inexpensive (35€). You WON'T ruin the steel. The simplest wood block with an angle cut on the end works fine as a jig too. Best value solution I think.
That stone is eating steel as I've never seen before!
So I started watching this series through your website, and you keep saying I talked about this in my previous videos. Which you didn't if you follow the series on your website, I quess I will see if I get to finding them in your youtube list. But I thought just to let you know you're referencing to things that are not on your website.
Hey Matt great video, I remember using the tormec during my training, just a weeee gripe noticed it in your other video as well, it's pronounced lee nielson, try and make it to one of their open days such fantastic tools :) keep up the good work!
Oh dammit I always get confused with that. Everyone says it differently I never know which pronunciation it is! I really want to come to one of their open days, it's on the list! Cheers mate
tomatos
Tomaaaartoes!
Aye... it be tomaaarrghtoes.
☠
This is a good video, but I wonder how much different it would have been if the cap would have been set at £100 worth of kit? That would be a very different video and certainly more in line with many of the people checking out this video. How many people really have access to this much dosh?!
Hi Matt. Are the bevel angles the same for Bevel up planes like the one you use in your shoulder plane video. Also do I put a secondary bevel on my new Axminster 271 router plane??. Great vids keep em up. Thanks.
Did you say FORTY FIVE MINUTES to regrind the primary bevel???
Good video. I've been laboring for a while over whether or not to get a tormek and, in particular, if it supersedes or compliments the use of water stones. Its clear from your video that its part of your sharpening toolkit. Was wondering what you see as the main advantage of the tormek - is it just speed? Would you use Tormek to help with flattening the backs of 'ly' neelsen chisels?
I have access to one, and the main thing I use it for is repairing damaged blades. Day to day honing, is faster and simpler with a set of stones. I would not try to flatten anything on a wheel, it by nature creates a curve. That is best done a large flat diamond hone.
Don't by a tormek just learn to sharpen on any stones you can find. A little inexpensive honing guide will help get you started (I used to use them) now I just freehand sharpen it's so fast to do, doesn't take up any space in my workshop and I get shaving sharp edges. Takes 15 minutes to sharpen my set of 6 bench chisels and my smoothing plane iron.
Has anyone used a record wet whee ????l, looking to get one next week
VERY USEFUL
Better than Rob Cosman, there I said it.
do the roundness of the wheel affect the blade?it will have a slope ?
2 years late but it does leave a hollow grind. still a damn fine edge though
What's the name of that paste?
What is that siren sounding noise that keeps going off in the background?
Oi! You got a loicense for 'at plane blade??
How would you go on to sharpen blade that needs heavy camber (like one in scrubbing plane). Especially first time when you need to form the large camber?
Davorin Ruševljan look up Paul sellers video
You just go for it on a bench grinder. Which is about as sketchy as it sounds. But if you have decent muscle coordination you should be able to manage it. I did it with a crappy Stanley Handyman plane I picked up for a buck. It's nothing I'd do with a high end plane. You don't really need to. Rough methods and tools for rough work.
When you move to the strop how do you know you're not on the hollow ground bevel versus the secondary bevel? If the secondary bevel is so narrow won't the paste squeeze out on both bevels?
Lift the blade up until you see the shadow on the end disappear! The paste is absorbed into the leather so it doesn't matter if the majority squeezes out.
Thank you.
It also does not really matter if you are honing both bevel (you will do the nature of leather), since the girt is fine, just don't lift the iron to high as you can round the edge over.
Excuse...stupidly fast...but that does not quite work...Appreciate the time you have put in Matt...Clearly shows in all your work...I am just finishing up what I would call a huge slab table...spalted alder...8 feet by 42 inches...about 2 inches thick...My 5 year old grandson and I planned the 3 slabs down to what I considered a good enough level...I could not imagine all the dust had I used a sander...Thank you
04:52 Holy cow! There's a jig for straightening out the stone. I never saw doing it that way..
08:00 Always *drag* - never push. Right?
I hear camber, and I keep expecting Canberra.
Could you please tell me the tools you used at 3:56 to 5:40 I want to buy them, thanks
A little late, but the machine itself is a Tormek (don't know the model but looks like one of the bigger ones, T7 maybe?) and the thing that holds the plane blade is the Tormek Square Edge Jig SE77 (or an older variant of it). There's loads of jigs for the Tormek to sharpen almost any kind of tool, and they even offer a 4000 grit japanese stone nowadays. They are very pricey, though.
@@juhaloukaja5078 thank you, appreciate the response.
Won’t your steel/diamond lapping plate rust?
No. They are nickel plated I think.
Sammy BlackChow .....Thanks, you are correct. They are heavily nickel plated. 👍
I hate when i overheat my tool!
Heya Matt, great stuff, thanks for sharing! How much would such sharpening set cost? 1000/6000 stone + flattening stone?
where i live about 120€ for the stone and diamond flattening stone
@@darioranft9148 thanks for the answer!
Really enjoy your video, but please for the love of God its pronounced Lee Neelsen!! From Wikipedia "In the late 1970s, Thomas Lie-Nielsen (pronounced "Lee-Neelsen"[2]) worked for Garry Chin's company, Garrett Wade. In 1981, Garrett Wade's supplier of an adapted Stanley #95 edge trimming block plane, Ken Wisner, was ready to leave the business, so Lie-Nielsen acquired the tooling, plans and components necessary for producing the #95.[3]"
Keep up the great work!
Garrrghhhh I always confuse myself with it! Everyone bloody says it differently! The next batch of videos I film will have the correct pronunciation. Cheers!
Lol I hope I didnt come across as an ass, your videos are awesome. Looking forward to the next one.
No not at all! I work in a tool store where everyone says it differently, hence why I get confused. Cheers mate
I bet your a real hoot to go to the pub with.
What degree is this bevel
Tormek's new flat blade an chisel holder is designed to put a beautiful consistent camber or straight edge. The new jig has two screws at one end that allow custom camber setting! It is a great new jig from the jig masters at tormek. This is the link to the new chisel jig from tormek the se 77.
ruclips.net/video/Bfd-xzOF5sc/видео.html
Use Rob Cosman's process.
Hi Matt. What do you find better in a Bester stone over a King stone?
Haven't used a King Waterstone before so I can only vouch for the Bester unfortunately. I think my next purchase is going to be a 3000/8000 combination from Ohishi because It's what a lot of folks recommend.
Tormek suck, I have one and the supporting bar was made from regular steel with nickel coating, needless to say the bar rusted, after 12 months, obviously a design fault, Tormek released a Stainless version of the bar and made you pay $150 for this even though the original steel bar was not suitable for the job.
Never had an issue with the new ones rusting. Did you have an older model? One of the green ones for example.
It is a blue model, was not happy such an expensive machine $700+ then had to spend another $150 to replace a faulty designed part, it is a good machine but this part should have been upgraded for free as it was an oversight in manufacturing.
Yea that is a bit crap isn’t it? Did you kick up a fuss with Tormek directly? I agree that it is a failure on their part
Sure did, they were not interested (Typical Australian distributor), therefore I never recommended their machine to anyone, I now use the WorkSharp WS3000 to get the initial grind, then to the wet-stone, My Tormek sit's in a box, BTW great informative videos keep them coming
Zane H did you keep lube and/or wax on the original bar?
When you regrind the bevel how do you know when to stop.
When it's all completely uniform again! Have a quick look at my previous video on sharpening chisels. I do close ups on what the bevel should look like after re-grinding.
You stop when you have completely removed the old micro-bevel from the sharpening stones.
You stop when there is nothing left to grind.
So then, what's your thoughts around a triple bevel on a plane blade? The guys in the workshop have been at each other's throats over this one. We have three camps, No.1 says it's nonsense, No.2 says it's a must and No.3 says only on certain types of plane. They'll listen to you. Put this on to bed would you?
Cheers, Mx
i like your cambering technique, similar to rob cossmans but more detailed. being a dedicated freehand sharpener i will have to see if i can hold an accurate secondary bevel and apply pressure consistantly to those points. so far i just round the corners on my smoothing plane as paul sellers suggests, and leave the rest of the edge flat with no microbevel.
I generally dont like exagerated claims or titles like "stupid sharp" unless someones going to back it up with non subjective tests. a little arm hair shaving isnt going to cut it. show it splitting some hairs or do a string cutting test against a controll (feather carbon steel double edged razor blade is a common "super sharp" controll) and i will be impressed. Otherwise im guessing its just a usable edge, nothing special.
also what you are calling the cap iron is actually the lever cap, the cap iron is another (probably more correct) term for the chip breaker.
The day im not anal about my tool edges is the day i am on the wrong side of the grass..
dadygee I
And by this time Paul sellers has done 5 blades
Scary fast...
hello Matt,
if i grinde a chisel or a planeblade on a tormac at 25 and then go to the guide and set it at 30 degr like you do its not ok.
the tormac grinder at 25 deg is 30/31degr on de H guide ? I set my bevelbox on it on the grinder and yes 30 degr .
the degr guide is not write at the tormac i grind at 20 degr and then on the bevelbox i have 25.
strange ....if i grinde at 25 with degr guide and go to my prot stop at 30 i do not have a sec bevel but a start over again grinding?
IF I GRINDE FLAT ON THE DIAMOND STONES AT25 AND GO TO MY PROTSTOP AT 30 THEN ITS OK .
IS THERE A DEFR FLAT OR HOLLOW GRIND ANGLE GUIDE?
SORRY FOR MY ENGLISH.