Tom, I have two Grizzl-E chargers that I installed about 2 1/2 years ago based on your recommendation and have found work every time as intended. Amazing to see how you influence the entire industry and the manufacturers make meaningful design changes and updates based on your reviews. Keep up the great work.
Great review Tom , thank you can't wait for 80A version review even if I already got GM 80A one. Gleb - well done , great job as always, proud for Torontonian company !
I ordered the 3 of the Ultimate 80amp chargers several months ago, but am having delays getting all my electrical done to get them installed. However, one thing I noticed in your video is they are shipping the unit in the same box with limited packaging. I opened my boxes to find one of the antennas was broken off which I suspect happened during shipping due to the way it is packaged. I am sure that I’m not alone with purchasing a product long before I ever get it installed so I recommend everyone open the box and inspect the physical condition after it arrives.
Glad they are offering a unit without the plug (saving the cost of the plug. So we get 48 amps at the same cost as their 40 amp plug in. Glad I've dragged my feet pulling permits.
Couple of things I’d recommend if you’re adding things to the ratings at the end in future reviews: 1) 277v support, since NACS now allows it and lots of commercial sites have 480/277 3 phase service. And 2) 44A charge rate, since 6AWG copper romex or in plastic conduit allows for 55A breaker/44A charge rate. Most AC chargers make you choose 40 or 48 amps today.
We had the 48 A Grizzl-E Ultimate 48-A EVSC installed July 18th for our Kia EV9. Plug in and instantly connects. Simplicity has it's place! Able to charge 1 to 2 x per week for everyday travel.
Thanks for sharing Tom. Maybe one thing the charger manufacturer can think of is a way to protect the item against vandalism. Maybe a thin wire forming a loop in the cable to set off an alarm or send a message on the app when cut.
Do you think any thief would be deterred by that? Most are cutting the cables to get a few $$ for drugs. They don't care about a notification going to the owner. They'll be long gone before the owner gets there, right?
Problem would be that most won't have a need for it. And, it will bring the cost up for materials and production, weight, etc. so most will pay for unnecessary things or even choose another product. Is best to get it, then assess your situation and surroundings and act accordingly. Perhaps a cage, concealment, etc.
I have the old Mini from Grizzl-e and have had 0 problems. Even though it says it is a mobile charger it has been my main piece for a long time. Now I'm moving (and buying) and want a permanently installed unit. I'm going with Grizzl-e. I currently only have an ID.4 but looking to get a 2nd EV for my wife. I think I'm going to install one with NACS for the future-proof of our home and future cars. I'll grab an adapter for a little while.
For my last job with vehicle manufacturer we did a bunch of evse testing. We tested the 15 most popular lvl2 home charging units at the time and the Grizzly units were the groups favourite. Incredibly robust.
I have the 80 amp version. Got it when they first hit the shelves. No problems with the unit. Did have an issue where it would not send data to the app. Just showed it was charging. Support was very quick and helpful. Never figured out the problem it just went away after a couple reboots. I have the old board design. Would love to get the updated board. The app I find quite useful and informative. Would love to be able to scroll along the charge curve and get time voltage and current.
It is the same board. So you have latest hardware. We are going to release very big software update next week where app functionality would be upgraded with lots of new functions
I have the classic 40 amp Grizzl E Avalanche and I am very satisfied with it. No hard wiring was needed as it plugged into a NEMA 14-50 socket. With a 9.6 kw charge, that is fast enough for me.
I am trying to make up my mind between Classic "dumb" and "smart" one. Everyone that has it loves it but some friends told me to get the dumb one....your thoughts?
A comment on the heat test. My Grizzl-E 40A charger, which is hard-wired, does get quite warm when recharging my BEV. In particular, I noticed that the metal conduit for the power supply serves as a heat-sink, since it is firmly attached to the charger enclosure. Your test setup, however, was using a cable, rather conduit, depriving the charger of this extra heat-shedding capacity, so your test may have been even more stressful than what the Ultimate charger was designed for. (And yes, I bought the Grizzl-E Smart charger, and had it installed properly, by QMerit, based, in part, on what I've learned on this channel. Cheers, Tom!)
Great review. Could you do a video on what a multiple EV home charging solution would look like? If our assumption is that at some point we will only be getting EVs, that means 2-4 EV homes when teenagers start driving. Is that even possible with current charging equipment? If we are upgrading our houses, it might make more sense to future proof panel upgrades to meet power requirements. Similarly, new construction homes might need to factor it in at some point.
One of misses that Tom mentioned, but didn’t penalize them for is missing a rear hole for power access. As he said, you get a much cleaner install with power line at rear. This product requires exposed conduit or fittings on the wall which is less attractive. Several competing chargers don’t have this problem, i.e. Tesla Wall Connector.
That's why I added my personal score at the end and averaged it with the ChargerRater. It's not practical for me to have line items for everything possible, so I take the things into consideration that aren't covered in the CR score for the final score.
Seems like newer EVSE are all going for at least 48A, which makes for faster Level 2 charging. My EV can handle that, and my HPWC can supply it, but… I have dialed it back to 40A because the breaker is only 50A, as I installed it over 13 years ago. Funny thing: at the time I thought that the 50A breaker was more than I'd ever need, since my first EVSE from Aerovironment only supplied 30A. How things change!
"Need" is a pretty strong word though. Most people only really need a 16A 240V EVSE on a 20A circuit since that would give more distance than they use every day. Every hour at 3.8kw and 4 miles per kWh gets a shade over 15 miles, or 150 miles in a 10 hour overnight charge. That isn't stopping me from running a nice fat cable for a 100 amp circuit to get dual 40 amp chargers for me though... Do want, probably don't need.
I agree about the connector. My dad has the Smart version and I struggle to use it as the connector will over heat. I have not had that on my charge point.
Make sure your receptacle, NEMA14-50, is industrial, a Hubble or Bryant industrial type, they are beefy and is not the $15 one from big box stores that is meant for appliances. Remember, they are not designed for CONTINUOUS 40AMP juice, ovens and dryers go on and off and never for eight hours. The terminals of the cheap ones are half ass and not even copper, they get loose with time also.
Hey Tom, love the channel. I’m in the market for a 48 amp charger and wondered your thoughts between this grizzl-e and the Eviqo you reviewed a couple months ago. Thanks
@@unitedchargers Cool! I won't need the 2nd unit until 2025. Can this model accommodate a 4 AWG cable? I plan on installing the first one on a 4 AWG cable with 60A breaker and later, when we get the 2nd EV, change to a 100A breaker and add the 2nd EVSE to share a maximum of 80A.
On a 100A breaker, will it dynamically share up to 80A? Automatically send more power to the EV that needs it most and, when one is full (set at 80%), send the maximum 48A to the EV that is not full yet?
The Tesla Wall Connector's polycarbonate case has a lot of advantages in terms of avoiding condensation. I'm afraid the aluminum box is subject to condensation that can cause corrosion over time on the electrical components, particularly if mounted in a place with large temperature extremes. What I want most in a Wall Connector is a long, trouble-free service life. The aluminum case may be tough, but I don't plan to drive over my Wall Connector. I don't want it crapping out at an inopportune time. One additional point for consideration. With EVs growing in popularity, and many households becoming two or more EV households, the electrical service panels common in most houses will not have enough capacity to add multiple 60 amp charging circuits. This is why power sharing is so important going forward. It adds a lot of charging flexibility for households with two or three EVs and people coming and going at different times. For that reason, I think EVSEs that have this capability should be awarded more than one point. I don't really care if the unit has a two- or three-year warranty, which is a one-point score difference, but I care a lot whether I can install two or three of them on the same 60-amp circuit. With all of N. America going to NACS charge ports, I'm surprised you are still reviewing CCS EVSE's. They will be obsolete in only a few years. Over 50% of BEVs in N. America have NACS ports already.
i like the classic "dumb" grizzl-e. The only reason I can see to change is when I need to get a second cord I'll plan to pick up the duo. In that situation I'll be sure to look for used and preferably not smart. The only exception that I can think of is if V2L becomes an option. It makes too much sense to pass up due to our very poor grid and hurricanes here in Louisiana.
I am struggling between the smart and the "dumb" one, precisely because a friend, who has the smart one, told me to buy the "dumb" one instead. MY home is real brick, mortar, limestone and plaster and it looks like the wifi may be an issue. Then, I came across your comment and wonder if I should truly follow his advice and your preference.
@aksuarezjd ask yourself what functionality you want from a smart charger and make sure it isn't something that either your car can do on its own and if it's something you really want. I may not be able to track my car's specific electricity usage easily, but my car is able to set a delayed charge if that is my goal.
Please correct me if I am wrong but I do not like the shrink wrap. It covers the torqued bolts so after a year or so you can open the unit and check the torq. Am I missing something?
It does, and other overcurrent safeguards. And, if hardwired will comply with GFCI code regulations. The problem is that if you plug it, the unit has GFCI, but the plug, which is what the HOUSE has, is not and that is what the inspector will have an issue with. I got a 50AMP GFCI ARC protected breaker in the panel which sufficed for it.
48 amps is terrific because most EVs support it. But, does anyone know why many German made EVs such as expensive MB EQS and Audi e-Tron only support 40 amps? That’s s 20% difference in charging speed! Maybe BMW has same issue, I don’t know.
@@EpicDrew15 Yes, that's my point. Goint up to 11.5 kW is a big 20% increase. That's why I installed a 48 amp commercial charger at my condo building for owners to share.
Tom, vital info missing from your otherwise excellent L2 reviews is the ability of the EVSE to use 208v power supply (3 phase) present in most US industrial parks. Millions of us earn a living in such locations where a NEMA 14-50 (6-50) is usually 208v (instead of 240v typical in residential). The EVSE that comes with the Nissan Leaf will not function on 208v for instance.
@@DarylOster Most will specify 208-240 or 208, 240 on the spec sheet. I would proceed by assuming most do take 208, and then check the spec sheet before ordering. If it doesn't have a clear spec sheet, that's a good reason not to order.
@@charliesullivan4304 thank you for the info, i ordered the splitvolt 40a charger in 26' length NEMA 14-50 for $195. It is rated for input from 88v to 288v (the widest range i could find). It is hard to believe the Nissan L2 charger won't work on 208v.
About time Grizzl-e did a hardwired 48A & 80A versions. I’m no longer a fan of NEMA 14-50 after all the smoked cheap $10 receptacles, buy a $50 Hubbell. I wish United did a 48A/80A duo. Nice to see cable a thinner cable. That shrink wrap is a brilliant idea as most people install a EVSE and leave it. I’m sticking with Tesla Universal units for my new garage buildout and mixed multi connector (J-1772 & NACS) EV household. One app to manage everything, and Tesla will adjust the loads automatically with Tesla Dynamic Power meter. Like I need another damn wall charger TOM for all my EVs! Sure with the future proofed this for V2H upgrade capability.
FYI, not covered in the review, but they don't have a way to configure the OCPP url on this charger. I contacted their support and they said it only works with their servers, but they may support changing this in the future.
I have one of these units what are the tests you need to make if the wire size that they Supply in the cable is large enough this cable it's very hot to handle which means the wire on the cable is undersized I have sent mine back due to severe electrical loss due to heat
The 80A version had an issue where they spec'ed max AWG 4 wire for the input, but that's too small to code compliant. I'm not sure what if anything they changed in the unit, but they revised the instructions to allow AWG 3 now which is compliant. I hope Tom can give use the story on that.
Hi Tom, it was great running into you last week at evgo station. I have a question for my ev9 can I buy ChargePoint 48amp as Grizzl-e is not in the approved EV charges for JCPL program. Or you suggest some other .
THANK YOU FOR SUCH GOOD INFORMATION, COULD IT BE CONNECTED WITH A CABLE AND A NEMA 14-50 OUTLET TO A 220V SOCKET? OR CAN IT ONLY BE CONNECTED WITH DIRECT 220V CABLES? THANK YOU
Tom, are you aware of the wire size controversy regarding the Grizzl-E 80A unit? Basically 80A charging requires #3 AWG wire or larger, but the 80A unit only had lugs for maximum size of #4 AWG wire according to the manual (too small). Running 80A on #4 AWG would be a violation of NEC and wouldn't pass inspection, which is a major safety concern. I see they now claim the unit supports #3 AWG, but I'm skeptical that they just made a change on paper. Can you verify that #3 AWG wires will actually fit through the current transformer and into the lugs properly during your review? It might be tight or impossible. I don't think you should recommend it unless #3 has been proven to fit without clipping strands due to the wire size concerns. Thanks.
United Chargers told me the manual was printed incorrectly, and the logs can support #3 AWG. They have updated it for the manuals shipping with the units. I'll be using #3 AWG when I install mine in a week or so. The manual now says to use 3-4 AWG wire for 80-amps. I assume you'd use 3-AWG if using ROMEX and #4 if THHN in MC.
@@StateOfChargeWithTomMoloughney I find it hard to believe the manual misprint story, given that the PCB silkscreen also says 4 AWG, and given that they didn't clarify that immediately as a misprint when it came up in the comments on your last review.
@@StateOfChargeWithTomMoloughney Thanks. It was also printed on the board incorrectly. It would have to be #1 AWG Romex or #3 THHN to meet NEC for 80A continuous. #4 would never be allowed for 80A due to termination temperature limits (≤75ºC).
I just purchased the Grizzle E 48 amp Ultimate. I have both a 2019Chevy Volt and a 2024 Acura ZDX. My Volt charges fine but the ZDX took 11 hours to fully charge from 10%. With everything I read I expected it to get a full charge in about 8 hours. Any idea as to why it took so long?
Any word if anyone is making a cordless version of this? We need to start tranistioning to a socket only system on public L2 charges like europe. So many vandals are cutting these cords that cordless or wireless is the only way to go on public L2.
By design, North American EV charging does not account to have non-permanent output cable. Copper value of the level 2 EVSE is miserable, its not worse the work and risk to cut it off. Level 3 chargers are a quite different story though.
@@unitedchargers thank you for the reply but doesn't the j3400 standard have a socket only spec where the user brings the cable as part of the spec? I think one side was j1772 and the other is j3400. I wish it was j3400 on both sides but it's not. I remember reading a spec sheet PDF late last year that had that.
@@TheLobo91 Not in North America. They made it for Europe only. In European EVSE there is a separate additional circuit which measures leakage on the output cable, taking into consideration that output cable is removable and it can potentially leak. In North America, there is no provision for this additional circuit, so we do not monitor the leakage on the output cable. This is very important to understand that this means that output cable extension cords in North America ARE NOT SAFE TO USE! If there will be short on that extension cable or between original output cable and extension cable, it can be dangerous and can cause damage as North American charger would not detect it and would not shut off. It is unclear why authorities allow to sell those output extension cables on Amazon and other places. They must be prohibited.
Do you have any information on the Grizzl-E ultimate 48a getting its energy star rating. The pending rating in October seems to have been removed. It would be a bummer because DTE in my area will not offer a rebate unless its energy star certified
Does the app let you set a % charge that you want on the battery and then auto shut off? Or does the app let you set a time duration that you want charge and then auto shut off? My Juicebox app (now defunct) had the ability to let me set the % charge I wanted on my battery, say 80% and then shut off at that point. Are there any other chargers out there that have this ability???
Many EVs provide that functionality. A recently released Tesla OTA update allows a start or stop time. When going on a road trip, you probably want to start with 100% charge, but don’t want the battery to rest hot for hours prior to travel. This is the Tesla solution, but I haven’t tried it yet.
@@jasonrodgers8780 Jason, there are two major battery types used in EVs. The traditional high density battery type uses NMC chemistry while the other lower density type is LFP. NMC batteries get very warm when charging from 80-100% and this degredates their range. You are instructed to limit charging to 80% unless the EV will receive immediate use. For example, when going on a road trip say 8 am, my state of charge is scheduled for 98-100% at 8 am. This method avoids the battery staying hot for a long time. LFP batteries don't have this problem and you can charge them to 100% every day and leave them at high SoC over night without any degredation. Lower density often translates to less range.
Tom I installed the 48 amp Ultimate to charge my 2024 Lyriq. It connected and charged the Lyriq just fine , but only charges at 32 amps. Cadillac was all ready to walk me through their procedure to update the App for the 48 amps, until they found out that I did NOT install their Ultium charger. Now they tell me that they will not help install A 3rd party charger, so go away. Qmerit did the install, all I want is GM to tell me How to get the car to accept a 48 amp charge. I am going to contact United Charger. I was curious if you had to go Through any hoops on your Equinox?
Check the capacity at home, perhaps, since the have a sensor and test, if a 50amp breaker is perceived then it will stop at 40AMP (80%), or if the wiring is not a 6/3Cu, it will not ramp it up, or if the outlet gets hot (being a cheap one for appliances and not the beefy industrial ones like Hubble or Bryant, it will also limit the juice.
@@aksuarezjd Thanks for the suggestion. I found that the firmware on the Grizzle had a setting that limited The charge rate. (Separate from the dip switch) Once that was set, all is well.
@@johnmorrison106can you elaborate on this firmware amp limit that you are referring to? I thought there were only dip switches to change the amperage on the grizzl-e?
The website says they have Access Control on their grizzl-e connectapp? I keep seeing in different places that it doesn't have access control. I will have an EVSE at an outdoor parking space so that's important.
Are they still planning on an 80 amp Ultimate Duo? I'm running cable from my panel that should handle a 100 amp circuit so that I can do either dual chargers or one high powered dual output charger... But now that Point Guard is advertising they have a module for 12.5 and 25kw DC fast charging with bidirectional capabilities I may have to wait but that looks like vapourware so far.
I'm from Quebec and am also eager for Flo to launch the X6. They keep saying it will be "summer". If they don't launch soon, I may buy the Grizzl-e... In the past, Flo EVSE have been solid, but expensive. They claim the new units will come with a 5-year warranty.
@@Andre-cj3ec Bonjour Andre, I’m from BC but born in Quebec, I installed a Flo X5 at my daughter’s house 4 years ago and a G5 at my son’s house 3 years ago and they have operated flawlessly. I have also used Flo DC 50Kwh chargers throughout BC and the Yukon and they have never left me stranded. They are worth the premium price.
The heat shrink tubing is helpful but it's absolutely not a way to keep the wire attached if the screw holding the wire were to work loose. If it's loose enough that the heat shrink is playing a role in holding it on, it's loose enough that the contact resistance will be high and it will burn up soon. It is no substitute for the right torque holding the wire to the lug an making a good contact. Strangly, the manual doesn't spec that torque. An electrician could look it up for a similar lug, but it's strange that they don't list it.
Question about the lock security. When mounted, it looks like the back of the unit is about 2 or 3 inches away. With the screws in the corner, it looks like a tool could fit behind the unit where the screws are. Is it possible to unscrew the unit from the base while it is locked in the mount on the wall?
I want a Grizzl-E, no question, EVERYONE I know is happy with them, and is from Canada, Ohio neighbors...Yet, I can't decide between any of them. I am very well prepared with all copper wires (4-4-4-6 SER) that handles 85AMPS, my main panel is 200AMP, all new, upgraded two years ago, surge protectors, good connections, NEMA14-50 is a Hubble (industrial) so it can take abuse! So, I could even do the 80AMPS, but that is overkill. Nonetheless, some friends told me to buy the "dumb" (Classic) one, not the "smart" one because the car will have its own way of monitoring and I won't have to deal with wifi horror stories. Besides, my home is real brick, mortar, limestone and plaster walls, and the garage is far from our router in the TV Room. So...guys, any thoughts on the aforementioned?
@@StateOfChargeWithTomMoloughney 32 Amp, UL listed, $109, 3yr warranty on Amazon. There are some others, too. 32 amps is all most people need. 3 extra years of warranty for $22
I chose this charger over others because it has a physical current draw limiter via dip switches. I don't want an app to determine my max current draw. While I can set the draw from the app, the highest option is limited physically by the dip switches.
@ I want to clearly make this distinction between the two types of current limits. The unit itself allows you to set a max current draw limit via dip switches. I have mine set to 40 amps as it’s on a 50 amp breaker. If I had a 60 amp breaker, I would set it to 48 amps draw. If I had a 40 amp breaker, I’d set the hard limit to 32. Then, in the app on my phone, I can set the current draw to anything below the hard limit in one amp intervals. I could do 38 amps for example, or even 22. The reason I like this system is because of the hard limit. Many other ones only set the limit via the app. I don’t like this. I wanted a physical limit, not a logical limit set by an app.
@ I’m doing it through the app on my phone. I can control the amperage in 1-amp increments up to the hard limit set inside the wall unit. It seems that it doesn’t go lower than 7 amps.
Not entirely sure how you would seal an ethernet port to the same standards as the rest of the enclosure. Perhaps they could consider incorporating power line ethernet.
@@Bryan46162 The same way the power cables get in: through a gromet. You have to terminate the cable yourself since the plug won't fit through the gromet, but that's pretty easy to do with a $20 crimping kit from Amazon and a quick RUclips tutorial video.
@@Bryan46162 OP didn’t specify indoor or outdoor, so maybe non issue. If outdoor, I installed several dozen outdoor rated APs including waterproof connectors. POE is recommended.
It depends on your use case. For the cast majority @laatu1234 is right, but if your use case is high mileage or constant high power applications like towing in a beefier vehicle like the lighting, Rivian, cyber truck, or Silverado EV especially yeah a higher amp charger will be more needed.
If people want to have a truck with a huge battery and save time on charging, what do you care? If their home can handle it, let them have 80 amp charging. It would take ages to charge a 100+kwh batter at 4.5kw. It's already about 10 hours at 10-11kw
It’s nice to have if you come back from a road trip and need to use the vehicle later in the day. 80A really is a reasonable charging rate when your battery is 120kWh++
11KW is 48A which requires a 60A line. 60A lines must be hardwired by code but even for lower current lines hardwired is safer than using a plug. If your EVSEs are outdoors they must be hardwired by code. 11KW is a nice level to have if you are driving a car. You absolutely can live with a 7.2KW EVSE if that's all your panel can support but if you can put in a 60A line you'll be happier. Tesla EVSEs have been 11KW for years. If you have a truck then an 80A EVSE would be noticeably better. That's a 100A line so it might involve a panel upgrade. A Silverado with its 200KWh battery could use more than 19.2KW but unless Chevy decides to offer dual charging ports you'll have to live with 80A.
Listen you need to talk about something that's actually important like the efficiency of the unit but who actually cares it's hanging on a wall because there are no federal regulations on these appliances efficiencies that cable that they Supply way too small it gets very hot extreme loss of energy that's a very good piece of equipment you need to talk about customer service tell me what happens when you call this company nobody answers even during business hours do they answer technical questions inside of that cable customer service is not very good these are things that are important to people the other items that you mentioned are useful for general knowledge doesn't matter
Bob our team was talking to you several times over the phone and via email. Cable thickness has nothing to do with the performance of the charger, all cables are UL certified and perform EXACTLY the same. Charger is Energy Star certified, they measure all the losses and if there have been significant losses, charger would not get Energy Star certification.
@@unitedchargersenergy star criteria are only for standby power. Loss in operation is not doesn't have any limit. And of course smaller wire cross section will lead to higher losses!
Think of it as an election valve. Like a water valve. You can turn the flow up and down as you wish. There is some loss but not a significant amount. I run my 80 amp unit at 50 amps and the cord that plugs into the car barely get warm.
Are their smart chargers that tell you how much energy you are using? We rent a room out to a college kid with a chevy Bolt, and it's hard to separate her electricity usage from ours.
Tom, I have two Grizzl-E chargers that I installed about 2 1/2 years ago based on your recommendation and have found work every time as intended. Amazing to see how you influence the entire industry and the manufacturers make meaningful design changes and updates based on your reviews. Keep up the great work.
Thanks. I have had so many companies tell me they reengineered their units to meet my standards. 😁
Still using my original Grizzl-E based on your review. It's indoors so that thick cable isn't a problem. Works as well as on day one.
I picked one up last week, hardwired 48 amp is the Goldilocks size for slow charging. Thanks for the review.
Great review Tom , thank you can't wait for 80A version review even if I already got GM 80A one.
Gleb - well done , great job as always, proud for Torontonian company !
I ordered the 3 of the Ultimate 80amp chargers several months ago, but am having delays getting all my electrical done to get them installed.
However, one thing I noticed in your video is they are shipping the unit in the same box with limited packaging. I opened my boxes to find one of the antennas was broken off which I suspect happened during shipping due to the way it is packaged.
I am sure that I’m not alone with purchasing a product long before I ever get it installed so I recommend everyone open the box and inspect the physical condition after it arrives.
Glad they are offering a unit without the plug (saving the cost of the plug. So we get 48 amps at the same cost as their 40 amp plug in. Glad I've dragged my feet pulling permits.
Couple of things I’d recommend if you’re adding things to the ratings at the end in future reviews: 1) 277v support, since NACS now allows it and lots of commercial sites have 480/277 3 phase service. And 2) 44A charge rate, since 6AWG copper romex or in plastic conduit allows for 55A breaker/44A charge rate. Most AC chargers make you choose 40 or 48 amps today.
We had the 48 A Grizzl-E Ultimate 48-A EVSC installed July 18th for our Kia EV9. Plug in and instantly connects. Simplicity has it's place! Able to charge 1 to 2 x per week for everyday travel.
Just bought an ev9 myself. Curious if it charges at the full 48amps?
K@@millyinmn3658 yes
The vehicle shows 11 kW. Charger shows 44A 250 V so full 11kW the vehicle will accept.
Thanks for sharing Tom. Maybe one thing the charger manufacturer can think of is a way to protect the item against vandalism. Maybe a thin wire forming a loop in the cable to set off an alarm or send a message on the app when cut.
Do you think any thief would be deterred by that? Most are cutting the cables to get a few $$ for drugs. They don't care about a notification going to the owner. They'll be long gone before the owner gets there, right?
@@StateOfChargeWithTomMoloughney I know right but they causes so much damage and discomfort to EV owners that anything to hinder these scum willl do.
Problem would be that most won't have a need for it. And, it will bring the cost up for materials and production, weight, etc. so most will pay for unnecessary things or even choose another product. Is best to get it, then assess your situation and surroundings and act accordingly. Perhaps a cage, concealment, etc.
I have the old Mini from Grizzl-e and have had 0 problems. Even though it says it is a mobile charger it has been my main piece for a long time. Now I'm moving (and buying) and want a permanently installed unit. I'm going with Grizzl-e. I currently only have an ID.4 but looking to get a 2nd EV for my wife. I think I'm going to install one with NACS for the future-proof of our home and future cars. I'll grab an adapter for a little while.
I have the 80A version. Works as intended with zero issues or nonsense. Can’t think of anything more I’d want/need in an EVSE.
For my last job with vehicle manufacturer we did a bunch of evse testing. We tested the 15 most popular lvl2 home charging units at the time and the Grizzly units were the groups favourite. Incredibly robust.
Thank You Everybody for All that you are doing for our Planet Earth.... Peace.. Shalom.. Salam.. Namaste
🙏🏻 😊 ✌ ☮ ❤ 🕊
I have the 80 amp version. Got it when they first hit the shelves. No problems with the unit. Did have an issue where it would not send data to the app. Just showed it was charging. Support was very quick and helpful. Never figured out the problem it just went away after a couple reboots. I have the old board design. Would love to get the updated board. The app I find quite useful and informative. Would love to be able to scroll along the charge curve and get time voltage and current.
It is the same board. So you have latest hardware. We are going to release very big software update next week where app functionality would be upgraded with lots of new functions
@unitedchargers great to see manufacturers in the comments! Thank you!
@@unitedchargerswill this allow amp change in the app?
@@jasonrodgers8780 Yes it is already working. New update to the app coming this week with a lot of new cool features.
I have the classic 40 amp Grizzl E Avalanche and I am very satisfied with it. No hard wiring was needed as it plugged into a NEMA 14-50 socket. With a 9.6 kw charge, that is fast enough for me.
I am trying to make up my mind between Classic "dumb" and "smart" one. Everyone that has it loves it but some friends told me to get the dumb one....your thoughts?
A comment on the heat test. My Grizzl-E 40A charger, which is hard-wired, does get quite warm when recharging my BEV. In particular, I noticed that the metal conduit for the power supply serves as a heat-sink, since it is firmly attached to the charger enclosure. Your test setup, however, was using a cable, rather conduit, depriving the charger of this extra heat-shedding capacity, so your test may have been even more stressful than what the Ultimate charger was designed for.
(And yes, I bought the Grizzl-E Smart charger, and had it installed properly, by QMerit, based, in part, on what I've learned on this channel. Cheers, Tom!)
Great review. Could you do a video on what a multiple EV home charging solution would look like? If our assumption is that at some point we will only be getting EVs, that means 2-4 EV homes when teenagers start driving. Is that even possible with current charging equipment? If we are upgrading our houses, it might make more sense to future proof panel upgrades to meet power requirements. Similarly, new construction homes might need to factor it in at some point.
One of misses that Tom mentioned, but didn’t penalize them for is missing a rear hole for power access. As he said, you get a much cleaner install with power line at rear. This product requires exposed conduit or fittings on the wall which is less attractive. Several competing chargers don’t have this problem, i.e. Tesla Wall Connector.
That's why I added my personal score at the end and averaged it with the ChargerRater. It's not practical for me to have line items for everything possible, so I take the things into consideration that aren't covered in the CR score for the final score.
@@StateOfChargeWithTomMoloughney Excellent decision for evaluation.
@unitedchargers this is something you need to do.
Seems like newer EVSE are all going for at least 48A, which makes for faster Level 2 charging. My EV can handle that, and my HPWC can supply it, but… I have dialed it back to 40A because the breaker is only 50A, as I installed it over 13 years ago. Funny thing: at the time I thought that the 50A breaker was more than I'd ever need, since my first EVSE from Aerovironment only supplied 30A. How things change!
"Need" is a pretty strong word though. Most people only really need a 16A 240V EVSE on a 20A circuit since that would give more distance than they use every day. Every hour at 3.8kw and 4 miles per kWh gets a shade over 15 miles, or 150 miles in a 10 hour overnight charge.
That isn't stopping me from running a nice fat cable for a 100 amp circuit to get dual 40 amp chargers for me though... Do want, probably don't need.
Thanks Tom. Once again, thorough and informative.
I agree about the connector. My dad has the Smart version and I struggle to use it as the connector will over heat. I have not had that on my charge point.
Make sure your receptacle, NEMA14-50, is industrial, a Hubble or Bryant industrial type, they are beefy and is not the $15 one from big box stores that is meant for appliances. Remember, they are not designed for CONTINUOUS 40AMP juice, ovens and dryers go on and off and never for eight hours. The terminals of the cheap ones are half ass and not even copper, they get loose with time also.
@@aksuarezjd On the one I mentioned it was the connector on the car. He has a quality 14-50 and I direct wired mine.
Need to start making these EVSE with NACS.
Great Video Tom.
Thank you, Tom!
If I had the Grizzl-e I would be happ-e
Hey Tom, love the channel. I’m in the market for a 48 amp charger and wondered your thoughts between this grizzl-e and the Eviqo you reviewed a couple months ago. Thanks
I have a Charge Point 60 amp and i love it...
ChargePoint doesn't make a 60-amp EVSE. You must be referring to the 50-amp ChargePoint Home Flex.
I never get these comments from people telling everyone else what they have that is different from what's being shown on the video
If it had dynamic load sharing or, at least, the option to daisy chain 2 units on a circuit, I likely would have ordered it.
Load sharing is a software feature which is due to be released in Q4 of this year.
@@unitedchargers Cool! I won't need the 2nd unit until 2025. Can this model accommodate a 4 AWG cable? I plan on installing the first one on a 4 AWG cable with 60A breaker and later, when we get the 2nd EV, change to a 100A breaker and add the 2nd EVSE to share a maximum of 80A.
@@Andre-cj3ec Yes.
On a 100A breaker, will it dynamically share up to 80A? Automatically send more power to the EV that needs it most and, when one is full (set at 80%), send the maximum 48A to the EV that is not full yet?
@@unitedchargers I hope you aren't endorsing the use of 4 AWG for 100A circuit/80A charging. That's a code violation.
The Tesla Wall Connector's polycarbonate case has a lot of advantages in terms of avoiding condensation. I'm afraid the aluminum box is subject to condensation that can cause corrosion over time on the electrical components, particularly if mounted in a place with large temperature extremes. What I want most in a Wall Connector is a long, trouble-free service life. The aluminum case may be tough, but I don't plan to drive over my Wall Connector. I don't want it crapping out at an inopportune time.
One additional point for consideration. With EVs growing in popularity, and many households becoming two or more EV households, the electrical service panels common in most houses will not have enough capacity to add multiple 60 amp charging circuits. This is why power sharing is so important going forward. It adds a lot of charging flexibility for households with two or three EVs and people coming and going at different times. For that reason, I think EVSEs that have this capability should be awarded more than one point. I don't really care if the unit has a two- or three-year warranty, which is a one-point score difference, but I care a lot whether I can install two or three of them on the same 60-amp circuit.
With all of N. America going to NACS charge ports, I'm surprised you are still reviewing CCS EVSE's. They will be obsolete in only a few years. Over 50% of BEVs in N. America have NACS ports already.
i like the classic "dumb" grizzl-e. The only reason I can see to change is when I need to get a second cord I'll plan to pick up the duo. In that situation I'll be sure to look for used and preferably not smart. The only exception that I can think of is if V2L becomes an option. It makes too much sense to pass up due to our very poor grid and hurricanes here in Louisiana.
I am struggling between the smart and the "dumb" one, precisely because a friend, who has the smart one, told me to buy the "dumb" one instead. MY home is real brick, mortar, limestone and plaster and it looks like the wifi may be an issue. Then, I came across your comment and wonder if I should truly follow his advice and your preference.
@aksuarezjd ask yourself what functionality you want from a smart charger and make sure it isn't something that either your car can do on its own and if it's something you really want. I may not be able to track my car's specific electricity usage easily, but my car is able to set a delayed charge if that is my goal.
Please correct me if I am wrong but I do not like the shrink wrap. It covers the torqued bolts so after a year or so you can open the unit and check the torq. Am I missing something?
They hold them in place so they won't loosen. You don't need to use them if you prefer not to
Hi, Great Video!
Does the Grizzl-E have GFCI protection? If its mounted outside does it require GFCI protected circuit breaker?
It does, and other overcurrent safeguards. And, if hardwired will comply with GFCI code regulations. The problem is that if you plug it, the unit has GFCI, but the plug, which is what the HOUSE has, is not and that is what the inspector will have an issue with. I got a 50AMP GFCI ARC protected breaker in the panel which sufficed for it.
48 amps is terrific because most EVs support it. But, does anyone know why many German made EVs such as expensive MB EQS and Audi e-Tron only support 40 amps? That’s s 20% difference in charging speed! Maybe BMW has same issue, I don’t know.
@@EpicDrew15 Yes, that's my point. Goint up to 11.5 kW is a big 20% increase. That's why I installed a 48 amp commercial charger at my condo building for owners to share.
Tom, vital info missing from your otherwise excellent L2 reviews is the ability of the EVSE to use 208v power supply (3 phase) present in most US industrial parks. Millions of us earn a living in such locations where a NEMA 14-50 (6-50) is usually 208v (instead of 240v typical in residential). The EVSE that comes with the Nissan Leaf will not function on 208v for instance.
All our EVSE work either from 208 commercial or 240 volts home power.
@@DarylOster Most will specify 208-240 or 208, 240 on the spec sheet. I would proceed by assuming most do take 208, and then check the spec sheet before ordering. If it doesn't have a clear spec sheet, that's a good reason not to order.
@@charliesullivan4304 thank you for the info, i ordered the splitvolt 40a charger in 26' length NEMA 14-50 for $195. It is rated for input from 88v to 288v (the widest range i could find). It is hard to believe the Nissan L2 charger won't work on 208v.
@@DarylOster I don't think that splitvolt unit is safety certified. I would not trust it.
About time Grizzl-e did a hardwired 48A & 80A versions. I’m no longer a fan of NEMA 14-50 after all the smoked cheap $10 receptacles, buy a $50 Hubbell. I wish United did a 48A/80A duo. Nice to see cable a thinner cable. That shrink wrap is a brilliant idea as most people install a EVSE and leave it. I’m sticking with Tesla Universal units for my new garage buildout and mixed multi connector (J-1772 & NACS) EV household. One app to manage everything, and Tesla will adjust the loads automatically with Tesla Dynamic Power meter.
Like I need another damn wall charger TOM for all my EVs! Sure with the future proofed this for V2H upgrade capability.
I called them and asked about a dual charger 80A. No guarantees, but I suspect they are considering it...
Elaborate on V2H regarding the charger in the video?
Could you update the OCPP compliance to 2 ratings. 1 point for OCPP 1.6 and 2 for OCPP 2.0.1?
FYI, not covered in the review, but they don't have a way to configure the OCPP url on this charger. I contacted their support and they said it only works with their servers, but they may support changing this in the future.
@@KellyCampbellPHL on their website they have a whole definition on how to change your OCPP server. The mini, ultimate, and smart are all supported
Tom - When are you going to review the EVDuty?
Wish it was available in white for use outdoors in the south.
I'll ask if that's coming.
@@StateOfChargeWithTomMoloughney Its coming :)
Extended warranty dropped to $100. good news.
I have one of these units what are the tests you need to make if the wire size that they Supply in the cable is large enough this cable it's very hot to handle which means the wire on the cable is undersized I have sent mine back due to severe electrical loss due to heat
The 80A version had an issue where they spec'ed max AWG 4 wire for the input, but that's too small to code compliant. I'm not sure what if anything they changed in the unit, but they revised the instructions to allow AWG 3 now which is compliant. I hope Tom can give use the story on that.
is there anything at around 250 so my energy rebate will pay for it?
Don't use aluminum wire and expanding and contracting cable isn't problem. The set screws don't back out.
Hi Tom, it was great running into you last week at evgo station. I have a question for my ev9 can I buy ChargePoint 48amp as Grizzl-e is not in the approved EV charges for JCPL program. Or you suggest some other .
THANK YOU FOR SUCH GOOD INFORMATION, COULD IT BE CONNECTED
WITH A CABLE AND A NEMA 14-50 OUTLET TO A 220V SOCKET?
OR CAN IT ONLY BE CONNECTED WITH DIRECT 220V CABLES?
THANK YOU
Both
Question, since you have 600 chargers and tested them all, which one is the one you decided to keep is your main one?
Is having WiFi necessary with this or other Grizzl-E units?
Get the classic "dumb" one, is super good, I did not want to use my wifi anyway.
I wonder if using locate would be a good idea to help prevent the screw on the lugs from backing out?
Tom, are you aware of the wire size controversy regarding the Grizzl-E 80A unit? Basically 80A charging requires #3 AWG wire or larger, but the 80A unit only had lugs for maximum size of #4 AWG wire according to the manual (too small). Running 80A on #4 AWG would be a violation of NEC and wouldn't pass inspection, which is a major safety concern. I see they now claim the unit supports #3 AWG, but I'm skeptical that they just made a change on paper. Can you verify that #3 AWG wires will actually fit through the current transformer and into the lugs properly during your review? It might be tight or impossible. I don't think you should recommend it unless #3 has been proven to fit without clipping strands due to the wire size concerns. Thanks.
United Chargers told me the manual was printed incorrectly, and the logs can support #3 AWG. They have updated it for the manuals shipping with the units. I'll be using #3 AWG when I install mine in a week or so. The manual now says to use 3-4 AWG wire for 80-amps. I assume you'd use 3-AWG if using ROMEX and #4 if THHN in MC.
@@StateOfChargeWithTomMoloughney I find it hard to believe the manual misprint story, given that the PCB silkscreen also says 4 AWG, and given that they didn't clarify that immediately as a misprint when it came up in the comments on your last review.
@@StateOfChargeWithTomMoloughney Thanks. It was also printed on the board incorrectly. It would have to be #1 AWG Romex or #3 THHN to meet NEC for 80A continuous. #4 would never be allowed for 80A due to termination temperature limits (≤75ºC).
I just purchased the Grizzle E 48 amp Ultimate. I have both a 2019Chevy Volt and a 2024 Acura ZDX. My Volt charges fine but the ZDX took 11 hours to fully charge from 10%. With everything I read I expected it to get a full charge in about 8 hours. Any idea as to why it took so long?
Hey tom. Just received my A2Z chademo ccs adapter and had success on my local public chargers. How's your experience?
Any word if anyone is making a cordless version of this? We need to start tranistioning to a socket only system on public L2 charges like europe. So many vandals are cutting these cords that cordless or wireless is the only way to go on public L2.
By design, North American EV charging does not account to have non-permanent output cable. Copper value of the level 2 EVSE is miserable, its not worse the work and risk to cut it off. Level 3 chargers are a quite different story though.
@@unitedchargers thank you for the reply but doesn't the j3400 standard have a socket only spec where the user brings the cable as part of the spec? I think one side was j1772 and the other is j3400. I wish it was j3400 on both sides but it's not. I remember reading a spec sheet PDF late last year that had that.
@@TheLobo91 Not in North America. They made it for Europe only. In European EVSE there is a separate additional circuit which measures leakage on the output cable, taking into consideration that output cable is removable and it can potentially leak. In North America, there is no provision for this additional circuit, so we do not monitor the leakage on the output cable. This is very important to understand that this means that output cable extension cords in North America ARE NOT SAFE TO USE! If there will be short on that extension cable or between original output cable and extension cable, it can be dangerous and can cause damage as North American charger would not detect it and would not shut off. It is unclear why authorities allow to sell those output extension cables on Amazon and other places. They must be prohibited.
@@unitedchargers a consideration I never thought of, thanks!
@@unitedchargers j3400 is not yet officially ratified as a standard, but it is specific to North America.
Do you have any information on the Grizzl-E ultimate 48a getting its energy star rating. The pending rating in October seems to have been removed. It would be a bummer because DTE in my area will not offer a rebate unless its energy star certified
Does the app let you set a % charge that you want on the battery and then auto shut off? Or does the app let you set a time duration that you want charge and then auto shut off? My Juicebox app (now defunct) had the ability to let me set the % charge I wanted on my battery, say 80% and then shut off at that point. Are there any other chargers out there that have this ability???
Tom, I believe J3400 allows for the use of Mennekes connector and BYO cables for public charging in the USA. Or am I wrong? Thanks!
Tom, are there any chargers that can be programmed, the night before, to finish charging by a certain time the following day?
Many EVs provide that functionality. A recently released Tesla OTA update allows a start or stop time.
When going on a road trip, you probably want to start with 100% charge, but don’t want the battery to rest hot for hours prior to travel. This is the Tesla solution, but I haven’t tried it yet.
Not within the app - at least not yet, but many EVs allow you to set that in the car.
@@johnpoldo8817can you elaborate on "rest hot" in your example? EV newbie here
@@jasonrodgers8780 Jason, there are two major battery types used in EVs. The traditional high density battery type uses NMC chemistry while the other lower density type is LFP. NMC batteries get very warm when charging from 80-100% and this degredates their range. You are instructed to limit charging to 80% unless the EV will receive immediate use. For example, when going on a road trip say 8 am, my state of charge is scheduled for 98-100% at 8 am. This method avoids the battery staying hot for a long time.
LFP batteries don't have this problem and you can charge them to 100% every day and leave them at high SoC over night without any degredation. Lower density often translates to less range.
Tom
I installed the 48 amp Ultimate to charge my 2024 Lyriq.
It connected and charged the Lyriq just fine , but only charges at 32 amps.
Cadillac was all ready to walk me through their procedure to update the
App for the 48 amps, until they found out that I did NOT install their
Ultium charger. Now they tell me that they will not help install
A 3rd party charger, so go away.
Qmerit did the install, all I want is GM to tell me
How to get the car to accept a 48 amp charge.
I am going to contact United Charger. I was curious if you had to go
Through any hoops on your Equinox?
Check the capacity at home, perhaps, since the have a sensor and test, if a 50amp breaker is perceived then it will stop at 40AMP (80%), or if the wiring is not a 6/3Cu, it will not ramp it up, or if the outlet gets hot (being a cheap one for appliances and not the beefy industrial ones like Hubble or Bryant, it will also limit the juice.
@@aksuarezjd
Thanks for the suggestion.
I found that the firmware on the Grizzle had a setting that limited
The charge rate. (Separate from the dip switch)
Once that was set, all is well.
@@johnmorrison106can you elaborate on this firmware amp limit that you are referring to? I thought there were only dip switches to change the amperage on the grizzl-e?
The website says they have Access Control on their grizzl-e connectapp? I keep seeing in different places that it doesn't have access control.
I will have an EVSE at an outdoor parking space so that's important.
Any word on the 80amp review?
Messed up that it costs more to buy a Canadian-made product in Canada than the US (once adjusted for currency, it is $50 CAD higher in Canada)…
Are they still planning on an 80 amp Ultimate Duo? I'm running cable from my panel that should handle a 100 amp circuit so that I can do either dual chargers or one high powered dual output charger...
But now that Point Guard is advertising they have a module for 12.5 and 25kw DC fast charging with bidirectional capabilities I may have to wait but that looks like vapourware so far.
Having a tesla. You are showing the other kind. Do I ou have one charger that will work. Thanks
Too bad the dip switches don't support a 44A option for use with 6 AWG copper NM-B.
I don't know of any charger that does
Emporia supports 44A (select 55A as the breaker size in the app). They specifically added this a few months back after customer requests.
Are you going to test the new Flo home X6 (12 KWh) & X8 (19.2 KWh) smart chargers in daisy chain configurations?
Yep
I'm from Quebec and am also eager for Flo to launch the X6. They keep saying it will be "summer". If they don't launch soon, I may buy the Grizzl-e... In the past, Flo EVSE have been solid, but expensive. They claim the new units will come with a 5-year warranty.
@@StateOfChargeWithTomMoloughney Great, I have a 4 car garage and would love to see a daisy chain setup .
@@Andre-cj3ec Bonjour Andre, I’m from BC but born in Quebec, I installed a Flo X5 at my daughter’s house 4 years ago and a G5 at my son’s house 3 years ago and they have operated flawlessly. I have also used Flo DC 50Kwh chargers throughout BC and the Yukon and they have never left me stranded. They are worth the premium price.
The heat shrink tubing is helpful but it's absolutely not a way to keep the wire attached if the screw holding the wire were to work loose. If it's loose enough that the heat shrink is playing a role in holding it on, it's loose enough that the contact resistance will be high and it will burn up soon.
It is no substitute for the right torque holding the wire to the lug an making a good contact. Strangly, the manual doesn't spec that torque. An electrician could look it up for a similar lug, but it's strange that they don't list it.
45 inch pounds. That’s what the lugs spec.
@@TheLazyCarrot The manual says 20 inch pounds, which seems way too low for the size of wires involved here. That appears to be a concerning mistake.
@@TechnicalLee I think that's for the lugs to the unit, not the wires in the lugs
@@StateOfChargeWithTomMoloughney which underscores the importance of Grizzl-E making both specs clear in the manual.
@@StateOfChargeWithTomMoloughney Says 20 inch pounds for both though.
Question about the lock security. When mounted, it looks like the back of the unit is about 2 or 3 inches away. With the screws in the corner, it looks like a tool could fit behind the unit where the screws are.
Is it possible to unscrew the unit from the base while it is locked in the mount on the wall?
The back of the unit is about 1" from the wall. No, you cannot access the screws at all.
I want a Grizzl-E, no question, EVERYONE I know is happy with them, and is from Canada, Ohio neighbors...Yet, I can't decide between any of them. I am very well prepared with all copper wires (4-4-4-6 SER) that handles 85AMPS, my main panel is 200AMP, all new, upgraded two years ago, surge protectors, good connections, NEMA14-50 is a Hubble (industrial) so it can take abuse! So, I could even do the 80AMPS, but that is overkill.
Nonetheless, some friends told me to buy the "dumb" (Classic) one, not the "smart" one because the car will have its own way of monitoring and I won't have to deal with wifi horror stories. Besides, my home is real brick, mortar, limestone and plaster walls, and the garage is far from our router in the TV Room. So...guys, any thoughts on the aforementioned?
I'm guessing they are killing off the plug in 40Amp versions. They have been out of stock for a long time now.
No, they are going to continue to sell it. I think it was a parts supply issue
Does it have power sharing so I can have two chargers that can communicate with each other and still draw no more than 48A?
Not natively. But you could use a 3rd party software that allows that.
Level 2 "chargers" (actually, just a glorified extension cord with a NACS plug) are on Amazon and elsewhere for around $100 now.
What about those?
None of those can deliver 48-amps or are safety-certified. They are low-power, cheaply made junk if they only cost $100.
@@StateOfChargeWithTomMoloughney 32 Amp, UL listed, $109, 3yr warranty on Amazon. There are some others, too.
32 amps is all most people need. 3 extra years of warranty for $22
@@tomtillmancan you post any examples/links/names?
Does anyone make one evsc that has two cables out and power share
This company does. It's called the Grizzl-e Duo and I've already reviewed it here.
Yep have it and been working perfectly for 2.5 years.the grizzle duo
@@StateOfChargeWithTomMoloughney thank you Tom
So where is the 80amp review??? You said a week….it’s been a month.
Sorry, I've been really backed up with other work. Getting to it
@@StateOfChargeWithTomMoloughney No worries. Just wondering. Thanks for the update.
Looks like the 5 year warranty is now $100 per their website..
Nice, but I do not need something that powerful. Have a 40 amp circuit - enough for me. Nice charger though.
I chose this charger over others because it has a physical current draw limiter via dip switches. I don't want an app to determine my max current draw.
While I can set the draw from the app, the highest option is limited physically by the dip switches.
What do you mean you can set the draw via the app?
@ I want to clearly make this distinction between the two types of current limits.
The unit itself allows you to set a max current draw limit via dip switches. I have mine set to 40 amps as it’s on a 50 amp breaker. If I had a 60 amp breaker, I would set it to 48 amps draw. If I had a 40 amp breaker, I’d set the hard limit to 32.
Then, in the app on my phone, I can set the current draw to anything below the hard limit in one amp intervals. I could do 38 amps for example, or even 22.
The reason I like this system is because of the hard limit. Many other ones only set the limit via the app. I don’t like this. I wanted a physical limit, not a logical limit set by an app.
@@takenusername I thought the Grizzl-e app doesn't allow for amp settings? Are you doing this through your vehicles charging app?
@ I’m doing it through the app on my phone. I can control the amperage in 1-amp increments up to the hard limit set inside the wall unit. It seems that it doesn’t go lower than 7 amps.
@@takenusername grizzl-e app?
I wish these EV chargers were able to be connected with ethernet instead of WiFi.
Autel MaxiCharge has an ethernet port in it.
An easy solution for any charger is to add a low cost access point or router ($30) at Ethernet cable near charger and use WiFi.
Not entirely sure how you would seal an ethernet port to the same standards as the rest of the enclosure. Perhaps they could consider incorporating power line ethernet.
@@Bryan46162 The same way the power cables get in: through a gromet. You have to terminate the cable yourself since the plug won't fit through the gromet, but that's pretty easy to do with a $20 crimping kit from Amazon and a quick RUclips tutorial video.
@@Bryan46162 OP didn’t specify indoor or outdoor, so maybe non issue. If outdoor, I installed several dozen outdoor rated APs including waterproof connectors. POE is recommended.
Your heat test is flawed and you should measure the heat of the charge port under high ambient temperature. The pins are what triggers the derating.
Not only the pins, but the unit itself
I think ppl. in the USA do not need this powerful home chargers. 11kW is enough and normally 4.5 kW charging power is sufficient.
So Rivians are 106-141kWh packs, at 4.5kW that would take 23.55555-31.33333 hours to charge. 4.5kW rate won’t work here in N.America
It depends on your use case. For the cast majority @laatu1234 is right, but if your use case is high mileage or constant high power applications like towing in a beefier vehicle like the lighting, Rivian, cyber truck, or Silverado EV especially yeah a higher amp charger will be more needed.
If people want to have a truck with a huge battery and save time on charging, what do you care? If their home can handle it, let them have 80 amp charging. It would take ages to charge a 100+kwh batter at 4.5kw. It's already about 10 hours at 10-11kw
It’s nice to have if you come back from a road trip and need to use the vehicle later in the day. 80A really is a reasonable charging rate when your battery is 120kWh++
11KW is 48A which requires a 60A line. 60A lines must be hardwired by code but even for lower current lines hardwired is safer than using a plug. If your EVSEs are outdoors they must be hardwired by code.
11KW is a nice level to have if you are driving a car. You absolutely can live with a 7.2KW EVSE if that's all your panel can support but if you can put in a 60A line you'll be happier. Tesla EVSEs have been 11KW for years.
If you have a truck then an 80A EVSE would be noticeably better. That's a 100A line so it might involve a panel upgrade. A Silverado with its 200KWh battery could use more than 19.2KW but unless Chevy decides to offer dual charging ports you'll have to live with 80A.
Listen you need to talk about something that's actually important like the efficiency of the unit but who actually cares it's hanging on a wall because there are no federal regulations on these appliances efficiencies that cable that they Supply way too small it gets very hot extreme loss of energy that's a very good piece of equipment you need to talk about customer service tell me what happens when you call this company nobody answers even during business hours do they answer technical questions inside of that cable customer service is not very good these are things that are important to people the other items that you mentioned are useful for general knowledge doesn't matter
Bob our team was talking to you several times over the phone and via email. Cable thickness has nothing to do with the performance of the charger, all cables are UL certified and perform EXACTLY the same. Charger is Energy Star certified, they measure all the losses and if there have been significant losses, charger would not get Energy Star certification.
@@unitedchargersenergy star criteria are only for standby power. Loss in operation is not doesn't have any limit. And of course smaller wire cross section will lead to higher losses!
@@charliesullivan4304 Not correct, energy star for EVSE measures with load and without load.
@@unitedchargers it measures both, but the criteria are only without load.
Think of it as an election valve. Like a water valve. You can turn the flow up and down as you wish. There is some loss but not a significant amount. I run my 80 amp unit at 50 amps and the cord that plugs into the car barely get warm.
Are their smart chargers that tell you how much energy you are using? We rent a room out to a college kid with a chevy Bolt, and it's hard to separate her electricity usage from ours.
Yes, you can see in the app how much energy was used. It stores all of the charge recordings