You should never use an outlet at 100% of it’s capacity over long periods of time. A regular household outlet in a house can output 15A over short periods only (we’re talking minutes here). For longer periods (hours), you should never exceed 80% of the outlet’s rating. That’s why Hyundai’s level 1 charger tops out at 12A, because that’s 80% of 15A. If the wiring in your house is old or too thin (small gauge) it could overheat and cause a house fire.
if it's ring main, I.E. the power go to ways, round homes ring main, 15A but as the power going in the two directions at the same time 15A one and 15A going the different direction way = 30A, but that's assuming a lot, the the plug socket was installed to the highest of standards? and not botched job from the start? and even if it was connected the ring main, one side may of failed, and socket drops back to, 15A, and without never knowing running only 15A, is going to be fire hazard in you wall spaces or wherever cablesare going to and from the socket? so yes, the power socket not expecting and in the case the wall look like wood?
@@dh2032 ring main is used in the UK, we don’t have that in North America. But your point is still valid, in an older house it’s very hard to know if the wiring and outlets are of good quality and correctly installed. It’s also common to have multiple outlets and fixtures that share one 15A breaker.
The Lectron EVSE at 15A would be ok on the NEMA 20A plug, with the 80% rule, but the plug tip should be permanantly horizontal to prevent it from being used in a 15A circuit, and overheating. Also dont forget there are likely other devices on a standard 15A circuit that draw current.... If Solomon is only able to use Level 1 because his home is a rental, and the landlord is unwilling to add a 240V plug, there is a device that links 2 120V branches on different phases to output 240V. That might be a solution for him, else a dryer plug adapter might be useful....
@@daveo9198The 15A plug should not have the horizontal tip because standard outlets in the US are rated to 20A, and it isn't against code to have the regular three pronged outlets for both 15A and 20A currents. The only way to be sure about which one you have is to check your breaker box.
I also have a Kona EV and I only have level 1 charging at home. Since I no longer commute on a daily basis, level 1 works great. I wait until my SOC is in the 30% to 40% range before charging, usually about once per week using the EVSE that came the car. Also, the car is set to charge only during off-peak utility rates.
In an emergency plugging into another EV may be okay but hooking a tow strap up to a gas or diesel vehicle and flat Towing on Max regen is the fastest way to charge
This video is really informative, Thank You! I think that it would be an excellent introduction to EV charging, especially for EV newbies. This should be common knowledge, but it is not good practice to run a charging cable across a sidewalk or walkway as it creates a tripping hazard. If a business is willing to provide outlets for the purposes of charging an EV, or for plugging in block heaters which is common here in Canada, they should consider installing charging posts. This is sometimes problematic as motorists often damage them when they are covered with snow, etc.
Hello Solomon I just found your winter drive video from way back, great info as I do drive from Vancouver Island to Calgary I have a GV 60 so I am always interested in new tips. I have learnt 2 good tips this video for me while travelling one I will carry an heavy extension cord two a charging cable wheel protector , as you said most motels / hotels have outside plugs , I think it would also be a good idea to have some type of flashing LED light to mark the cord over a walkway from the plug to your room so people would not trip. Thank you for a great video look forward to more .
You talked about avoiding getting water in the outlet but did not mention using an in-use outlet cover. That's much better than the silicone outlet spacer you showed.
Great video; Level 1 charging works for a ton of people. So many reviews and articles just parrot the notion that L1 is so slow and therefore useless. I have L2 now for my Chevrolet Bolt EUV but only because GM paid for a NEMA 14-50 outlet. Previously I got by just fine on L1 for my Ford Focus Electric since I rarely drive more than 30 miles per day
Wanted to add that NEMA 5-20 outlets are supplied by 12gauge wire and get a 20 amp breaker. Some households might already have 12ga & 20 amp breaker, but not the NEMA 5-20 outlet.
I tried to go with level one only when I moved for my F-150 lightning. I had a shorter commute. It worked most of the time but if I had a day where I drove a lot, I was not able to charge fast enough. Luckily I have a Tesla charger in all directions that I travel so I could use those in emergencies. In the end I had a level 2 charger installed which I am glad I did.
So watching this again and wanted to share some of my experiences as I have been using lv1 for a month or so and will be adding a dedicated 240 outlet for level 2 charging at home. Regardless of if you are staying level 1 or want to add an outlet for level 2, You will want to install a dedicated circuit for it to make prevent issues with an outlet on a circuit and to make sure you are safely charging. I am in the process of recording a video that details my story as I think it is something that will be helpful to others and isn't something I've found online as of yet.
Another note: for battery life longevity, it has been shown that many shorter and smaller charge sessions is better than a few long and fast ones. Also storing your car in hot climates or garages with more than 80% is detrimental as well. Meanwhile dropping below 20% is a recipe for getting stranded if you leave it parked for a few days. Sweet spot is to keep the car between 40-80%. Given you can get 10%-15% overnight means you can totally get by on mostly level 1 charging and use a supercharger occassionally when there is road trip or a long day of driving. Charge where ever and whenever you can if going on trips.
I cannot speak for Canada, but the marked value of a standard circuit breaker in the IS represents a 3 hour limit. I would expect a continuous load of 15 amps to trip a 15 A breaker after about 3 hours. I have done this with backup systems where the charger was able to draw enough power for a long enough period to cause the outlet breaker of the generator to trip. I would be careful of pulling full rated power by design. That 80% derate is to keep things for warming up over time.
Appreciate this well made clear vid and all the comments too, I’ve been shopping for a L1 EVSE for emergencies for my Kia EV6. I just want the J1772 plug with a fuse dongle, I have plenty of outdoor rated 12ga 15A-capable extension cords, anyone sell the connector without the cord?
I totally agree with smoguli - continuous draw on a 15 or 20 amp breaker is limited to 80% of the breakers rating - ie, 20 amp breaker is limited to 16 amps continuous draw - ditto for a 15 amp breaker = 12 amps continuous draw - I believe Stage one chargers draw less than each because of safety reasons - like u have other items on the same circuit- best to go with a dedicated circuit ( no other items plugged in on the same circuit)
Actually, that's a charging cable, not a charger. The charger is built into the car. You probably know this. You are just referring to this wrong. No disrespect intended.
Always bring an extension cord with you! Your car might be farther than 10 meters away from the electrical outlet. I helped out a Hyundai EV with only his J-1772 charger. He sat for 5 hours before I arrived. Grab a Tesla to J-1772 adapter. You can use a Tesla charger, while at a brewery. 🍺
When only 120-volt outlets are available, it is indeed possible to charge your EV significantly faster using a portable Quick 220 system that can provide you with either 2.7 or 3.8 kilowatts per hour depending on the availability of NEMA 5-15 or 5-20 Outlets. The Quick 220 system is a quality, fully ETL certified charging tool that enables an EV driver to obtain faster charging in areas with little charging infrastructure. However, you must follow the included instructions to the letter for safety purposes since you're dealing with 240 volts. As such, you must sufficiently educate yourself on the basics of electricity so as to ensure your safety and the source you're plugging into! When in doubt, consult an electrician! I have successfully used my Quick 220 system at my cottage, which has an old electrical panel that cannot accommodate an additional 240-volt breaker. Using my affordable Quick 220 system, I can obtain up to 12-15 miles per hour of added range to my EV.
Question for the illiterate - is there an adapter that will plug in to a drop cord and then into my Tesla for 110v charging? I have a 2025 model Y with an generic adapter that came with the car (I assume this goes to a non-Tesla charger). Also it seems a reasonable thing to have in case of emergency. Any suggestions for cheap adapters like this? Thank you.
I’m not an expert but here are my thoughts: First, using an extension cord is not recommended for EV charging. And you will need a Tesla Mobile Connector or a Tesla Wall Connector (or any compatible EVSE) to charge your Model Y, you can’t plug the extension cord directly into the car with an “adapter”. Lastly, the J1772 to NACS adaptor (comes with the car) is for when you plug into a public non-Tesla charging station that uses the J1772 plug. Hope this helps!
@@shimano20154 So I looked on Tesla's website and there is an adaptor that plugs into a 3-prong drop cord - as a matter of fact, they have several that fit multiple hookups. I have never seen where it is not advised to charge with a drop cord. Can you show me that? If you are charging with a 110 connection, very little juice is drawn (it seems). I borrowed a charger from someone that is made by Tesla and it has a 20-25 foot drop chord with it. It works fine - slowly but fine. Thanks.
@@sy73326 my last reply containing links and did not seem to go through, I will reply again without links... (1) not sure what exactly is the "adapter that plugs into a 3-prong cord" you are referring to. Are you talking about the "NEMA Adapter Bundle" sold on Tesla shop? These adapters are supposed to be used with Tesla Mobile Connector, as mentioned on the description on the web page. You can't use the adapters in that bundle to connect your car to the wall outlet directly. (2) if you search for "Mobile Connector Gen 2 Owner's Manual" and on the first couple of pages (page 2 for Canadian version) it has hundreds of warning messages, and one of them indicated that you can't use the Mobile Connector with extension cords.
@@sy73326 idk why my replies are not accepted by RUclips, I will reply one last time... (1) not sure what exactly is the "adapter that plugs into a 3-prong cord" you are referring to. Are you talking about the "NEMA Adapter Bundle" sold on Tesla shop? These adapters are supposed to be used with Tesla Mobile Connector, as mentioned on the description on the web page. You can't use the adapters in that bundle to connect your car to the wall outlet directly. (2) if you search for "Mobile Connector Gen 2 Owner's Manual" and on the first couple of pages (page 2 for Canadian version) it has hundreds of warning messages, and one of them indicated that you can't use the Mobile Connector with extension cords.
The nema 5-20 IS NOT USED IN BATHS OR KITCHENS. It might look similar but it is NOT nema 5-20. It is a GFCI. It should be 20 anps in the kichen only. All others will be 15 anps
No it will trip a little above 15A. Your device can only do at most 80% due to RMS (root mean squared). AC current doesn’t move in a straight line so you’ll only get an average since it moves like a Sine Wave. If it were DC that would be a different current graph. Anyways always hire an electrician if you install these things. Don’t risk burning your house down because you didn’t know there was no buffer.
You MUST understand that continuous use MUST be 80% of the rated circuit. For example- drawing 15 amps continuously on a 15 amp circuit is DANGEROUS! It will start a fire.
evse are so cheap, wonder why they don't provide them with each car. my bolt euv came with an interchangable plug of both 120 and a nema 14-50 delivering up to 9kw. allow you to charge level 1 or 2. level 1 would work fine for us on most occasions, but having level 2 is better. i live nw of edmonton. it's within my return range in most conditions. whitecourt and spruce grove are our commuting destinations most times. your edmonton to calgary road trip grabbed my attention since it's close. now i know where i can road trip too.
The Ioniq Guy experimented with his Ioniq 5 (E-GMP) and revealed 31.5% charging losses by charging at Level 1 rates, which is criminally bad for a long-term charging solution. The manufacturers understand these large battery cars are so pitifully slow at Level 1 that they consider it to be an emergency mode only vs. a rational way to charge, but I know a lot of retirees, who drive infrequently and therefore assume this Level 1 route is cheap and easy and it still meets their minimal driving needs. If they knew it wasted 23% more of their electricity than using Level 2 and thus ultimately reduces the efficiency of their car's energy usage by ~1/4, I think they'd reconsider that choice. ruclips.net/video/AiCSnwoAs0c/видео.htmlsi=IhguTl59erD1F6Zn
My utility is about $0.10 per kwh and a 0-100% charge would be $6.00. 23% more is $7.38. It would take a whole lot of dollar-and-a-halfs to pay for a L2 charger.
@@krerickson1 the point is wasted electricity at scale. Not how much money you personally can save or not save. It's a Climate Crisis and a renewable energy challenge. Think beyond your personal wealth.
L1 also costs the inconvenience of not always waking up each morning to a full battery. L1 for most households still requires second gas car for days needing lots of driving. L2 install can be cheap if your breaker panel is close to your parking / charging spot. I only spent ~$60 on supplies at the hardware store. Plenty of L2 evse's available for under $150.@@krerickson1
You are loosing so much efficiency of the power using L1 power vs installing an L2 home charger using a 40-48amp connection @ 240V = 9.6-11.5kW. Get rid of that L1 connection ASAP as it should only really be used for emergency trickle charging on the road
DO NOT CHARGE AT 15A on a 15A circuit. There's are reason why stock chargers at set at 12A. Circuits are supposed to be used at 80%. If you used a 15A circuit at 100% for an extended period of time it will melt the wires in your house without tripping the breaker. Also advise agains using that silicone spacer. Outlets fail and burn when they are loose or not inserted properly due to higher contact resistance.
This is true in North America (the NEC specifies an 80% limit for any continuous load on a circuit - higher spikes are permitted but anything that draws current continuously like a space heater or EV charger must be limited to 80%, so 12A on a typical 15A circuit). This is not necessarily true in other countries. Here in Australia there is no 80% rule and you can continuously draw the full rated capacity of a circuit (and manufacturer-provided EVSEs will default to using 100% of the circuit’s capacity, unlike in America).
I’m so glad that you are posting again on a regular basis. Keep it up!
You should never use an outlet at 100% of it’s capacity over long periods of time. A regular household outlet in a house can output 15A over short periods only (we’re talking minutes here). For longer periods (hours), you should never exceed 80% of the outlet’s rating. That’s why Hyundai’s level 1 charger tops out at 12A, because that’s 80% of 15A. If the wiring in your house is old or too thin (small gauge) it could overheat and cause a house fire.
I totally agree! The product that this video sponsors may be dangerous to some people. 12A is a much safer limit for basic level 1.
if it's ring main, I.E. the power go to ways, round homes ring main, 15A but as the power going in the two directions at the same time 15A one and 15A going the different direction way = 30A, but that's assuming a lot, the the plug socket was installed to the highest of standards? and not botched job from the start? and even if it was connected the ring main, one side may of failed, and socket drops back to, 15A, and without never knowing running only 15A, is going to be fire hazard in you wall spaces or wherever cablesare going to and from the socket? so yes, the power socket not expecting and in the case the wall look like wood?
@@dh2032 ring main is used in the UK, we don’t have that in North America. But your point is still valid, in an older house it’s very hard to know if the wiring and outlets are of good quality and correctly installed. It’s also common to have multiple outlets and fixtures that share one 15A breaker.
The Lectron EVSE at 15A would be ok on the NEMA 20A plug, with the 80% rule, but the plug tip should be permanantly horizontal to prevent it from being used in a 15A circuit, and overheating. Also dont forget there are likely other devices on a standard 15A circuit that draw current.... If Solomon is only able to use Level 1 because his home is a rental, and the landlord is unwilling to add a 240V plug, there is a device that links 2 120V branches on different phases to output 240V. That might be a solution for him, else a dryer plug adapter might be useful....
@@daveo9198The 15A plug should not have the horizontal tip because standard outlets in the US are rated to 20A, and it isn't against code to have the regular three pronged outlets for both 15A and 20A currents. The only way to be sure about which one you have is to check your breaker box.
I also have a Kona EV and I only have level 1 charging at home. Since I no longer commute on a daily basis, level 1 works great. I wait until my SOC is in the 30% to 40% range before charging, usually about once per week using the EVSE that came the car. Also, the car is set to charge only during off-peak utility rates.
In an emergency plugging into another EV may be okay but hooking a tow strap up to a gas or diesel vehicle and flat Towing on Max regen is the fastest way to charge
This video is really informative, Thank You! I think that it would be an excellent introduction to EV charging, especially for EV newbies. This should be common knowledge, but it is not good practice to run a charging cable across a sidewalk or walkway as it creates a tripping hazard. If a business is willing to provide outlets for the purposes of charging an EV, or for plugging in block heaters which is common here in Canada, they should consider installing charging posts. This is sometimes problematic as motorists often damage them when they are covered with snow, etc.
Thank you Solomon. This is great information and good guidance on the trade offs of different charging (EVSE) options.
This was both insightful and helpful. Delivered in such a nice and composed manner.
Hello Solomon I just found your winter drive video from way back, great info as I do drive from Vancouver Island to Calgary I have a GV 60 so I am always interested in new tips. I have learnt 2 good tips this video for me while travelling one I will carry an heavy extension cord two a charging cable wheel protector , as you said most motels / hotels have outside plugs , I think it would also be a good idea to have some type of flashing LED light to mark the cord over a walkway from the plug to your room so people would not trip. Thank you for a great video look forward to more .
This is great! Love the detailed information about the pros and cons!
You talked about avoiding getting water in the outlet but did not mention using an in-use outlet cover. That's much better than the silicone outlet spacer you showed.
It’s not really a charger in your vehicle. It’s called an inverter and converts AC into DC for your battery. Really enjoyed your video. Thanks!
Great video; Level 1 charging works for a ton of people. So many reviews and articles just parrot the notion that L1 is so slow and therefore useless. I have L2 now for my Chevrolet Bolt EUV but only because GM paid for a NEMA 14-50 outlet. Previously I got by just fine on L1 for my Ford Focus Electric since I rarely drive more than 30 miles per day
Wanted to add that NEMA 5-20 outlets are supplied by 12gauge wire and get a 20 amp breaker. Some households might already have 12ga & 20 amp breaker, but not the NEMA 5-20 outlet.
Those are the only outlets you should use the full 1.8kw charging capability of the lectron charger he showed
Keep making these good videos.
Fantastic Video, I Understood Everything. You Gave A Reason to the EV Charging Madness! Thank You!
Thank you! I am getting a PHEV soon and this video was quite informative and helpful!
Many thanks for all those very useful information and tips.
I tried to go with level one only when I moved for my F-150 lightning. I had a shorter commute. It worked most of the time but if I had a day where I drove a lot, I was not able to charge fast enough. Luckily I have a Tesla charger in all directions that I travel so I could use those in emergencies. In the end I had a level 2 charger installed which I am glad I did.
So watching this again and wanted to share some of my experiences as I have been using lv1 for a month or so and will be adding a dedicated 240 outlet for level 2 charging at home.
Regardless of if you are staying level 1 or want to add an outlet for level 2, You will want to install a dedicated circuit for it to make prevent issues with an outlet on a circuit and to make sure you are safely charging.
I am in the process of recording a video that details my story as I think it is something that will be helpful to others and isn't something I've found online as of yet.
Nicely done
Another note: for battery life longevity, it has been shown that many shorter and smaller charge sessions is better than a few long and fast ones. Also storing your car in hot climates or garages with more than 80% is detrimental as well. Meanwhile dropping below 20% is a recipe for getting stranded if you leave it parked for a few days.
Sweet spot is to keep the car between 40-80%. Given you can get 10%-15% overnight means you can totally get by on mostly level 1 charging and use a supercharger occassionally when there is road trip or a long day of driving. Charge where ever and whenever you can if going on trips.
thank you, very helpful, many miles to you on your journey
Great information. Thank you.
I cannot speak for Canada, but the marked value of a standard circuit breaker in the IS represents a 3 hour limit. I would expect a continuous load of 15 amps to trip a 15 A breaker after about 3 hours. I have done this with backup systems where the charger was able to draw enough power for a long enough period to cause the outlet breaker of the generator to trip. I would be careful of pulling full rated power by design. That 80% derate is to keep things for warming up over time.
I use Level 1 every day and have had no issues with my 2024. Excellent video btw...I watched this in its entirety😊thats a first for me!
Very helpful video.
Appreciate this well made clear vid and all the comments too, I’ve been shopping for a L1 EVSE for emergencies for my Kia EV6. I just want the J1772 plug with a fuse dongle, I have plenty of outdoor rated 12ga 15A-capable extension cords, anyone sell the connector without the cord?
I totally agree with smoguli - continuous draw on a 15 or 20 amp breaker is limited to 80% of the breakers rating - ie, 20 amp breaker is limited to 16 amps continuous draw - ditto for a 15 amp breaker = 12 amps continuous draw - I believe Stage one chargers draw less than each because of safety reasons - like u have other items on the same circuit- best to go with a dedicated circuit ( no other items plugged in on the same circuit)
And with more efficient EVs like the Aptera (if they can even start building them) Level 1 Charging may be good for 99% of everyday use.
europe also has 380v and 3 phase allowing for 11kWH AC charging in selected cars
should we worry about rain, snow or moisture? I see that you just went straight for it without hesitation, is it pretty safe? thanks
Actually, that's a charging cable, not a charger. The charger is built into the car. You probably know this. You are just referring to this wrong. No disrespect intended.
Always bring an extension cord with you! Your car might be farther than 10 meters away from the electrical outlet.
I helped out a Hyundai EV with only his J-1772 charger. He sat for 5 hours before I arrived.
Grab a Tesla to J-1772 adapter. You can use a Tesla charger, while at a brewery. 🍺
How much $ does it cause to charge on Level 1 at home?
When only 120-volt outlets are available, it is indeed possible to charge your EV significantly faster using a portable Quick 220 system that can provide you with either 2.7 or 3.8 kilowatts per hour depending on the availability of NEMA 5-15 or 5-20 Outlets.
The Quick 220 system is a quality, fully ETL certified charging tool that enables an EV driver to obtain faster charging in areas with little charging infrastructure.
However, you must follow the included instructions to the letter for safety purposes since you're dealing with 240 volts.
As such, you must sufficiently educate yourself on the basics of electricity so as to ensure your safety and the source you're plugging into!
When in doubt, consult an electrician!
I have successfully used my Quick 220 system at my cottage, which has an old electrical panel that cannot accommodate an additional 240-volt breaker.
Using my affordable Quick 220 system, I can obtain up to 12-15 miles per hour of added range to my EV.
Question for the illiterate - is there an adapter that will plug in to a drop cord and then into my Tesla for 110v charging? I have a 2025 model Y with an generic adapter that came with the car (I assume this goes to a non-Tesla charger). Also it seems a reasonable thing to have in case of emergency. Any suggestions for cheap adapters like this? Thank you.
I’m not an expert but here are my thoughts: First, using an extension cord is not recommended for EV charging. And you will need a Tesla Mobile Connector or a Tesla Wall Connector (or any compatible EVSE) to charge your Model Y, you can’t plug the extension cord directly into the car with an “adapter”. Lastly, the J1772 to NACS adaptor (comes with the car) is for when you plug into a public non-Tesla charging station that uses the J1772 plug. Hope this helps!
@@shimano20154 So I looked on Tesla's website and there is an adaptor that plugs into a 3-prong drop cord - as a matter of fact, they have several that fit multiple hookups. I have never seen where it is not advised to charge with a drop cord. Can you show me that? If you are charging with a 110 connection, very little juice is drawn (it seems). I borrowed a charger from someone that is made by Tesla and it has a 20-25 foot drop chord with it. It works fine - slowly but fine. Thanks.
@@sy73326 my last reply containing links and did not seem to go through, I will reply again without links... (1) not sure what exactly is the "adapter that plugs into a 3-prong cord" you are referring to. Are you talking about the "NEMA Adapter Bundle" sold on Tesla shop? These adapters are supposed to be used with Tesla Mobile Connector, as mentioned on the description on the web page. You can't use the adapters in that bundle to connect your car to the wall outlet directly. (2) if you search for "Mobile Connector Gen 2 Owner's Manual" and on the first couple of pages (page 2 for Canadian version) it has hundreds of warning messages, and one of them indicated that you can't use the Mobile Connector with extension cords.
@@sy73326 idk why my replies are not accepted by RUclips, I will reply one last time... (1) not sure what exactly is the "adapter that plugs into a 3-prong cord" you are referring to. Are you talking about the "NEMA Adapter Bundle" sold on Tesla shop? These adapters are supposed to be used with Tesla Mobile Connector, as mentioned on the description on the web page. You can't use the adapters in that bundle to connect your car to the wall outlet directly. (2) if you search for "Mobile Connector Gen 2 Owner's Manual" and on the first couple of pages (page 2 for Canadian version) it has hundreds of warning messages, and one of them indicated that you can't use the Mobile Connector with extension cords.
@ I have not seen that but I will go back and look. Thank you
Recommended to only charge to 80% of battery capacity. Perhaps for long trips 100% is okay from time to time.
did he say bela bela?
The nema 5-20 IS NOT USED IN BATHS OR KITCHENS. It might look similar but it is NOT nema 5-20. It is a GFCI. It should be 20 anps in the kichen only. All others will be 15 anps
FYI at 12:20 - circuit breakers have built in 20% buffer, so a 15A breaker actually trips when a bit more than 12A is drawn.
No it will trip a little above 15A. Your device can only do at most 80% due to RMS (root mean squared). AC current doesn’t move in a straight line so you’ll only get an average since it moves like a Sine Wave. If it were DC that would be a different current graph. Anyways always hire an electrician if you install these things. Don’t risk burning your house down because you didn’t know there was no buffer.
You MUST understand that continuous use MUST be 80% of the rated circuit. For example- drawing 15 amps continuously on a 15 amp circuit is DANGEROUS! It will start a fire.
evse are so cheap, wonder why they don't provide them with each car.
my bolt euv came with an interchangable plug of both 120 and a nema 14-50 delivering up to 9kw.
allow you to charge level 1 or 2.
level 1 would work fine for us on most occasions, but having level 2 is better.
i live nw of edmonton.
it's within my return range in most conditions.
whitecourt and spruce grove are our commuting destinations most times.
your edmonton to calgary road trip grabbed my attention since it's close.
now i know where i can road trip too.
3:04 "DC fast charging (or level 3 charging)" No! Stop that! 🤣
Level one does use more energy than Level two; my observation.
The Ioniq Guy experimented with his Ioniq 5 (E-GMP) and revealed 31.5% charging losses by charging at Level 1 rates, which is criminally bad for a long-term charging solution. The manufacturers understand these large battery cars are so pitifully slow at Level 1 that they consider it to be an emergency mode only vs. a rational way to charge, but I know a lot of retirees, who drive infrequently and therefore assume this Level 1 route is cheap and easy and it still meets their minimal driving needs. If they knew it wasted 23% more of their electricity than using Level 2 and thus ultimately reduces the efficiency of their car's energy usage by ~1/4, I think they'd reconsider that choice.
ruclips.net/video/AiCSnwoAs0c/видео.htmlsi=IhguTl59erD1F6Zn
My utility is about $0.10 per kwh and a 0-100% charge would be $6.00. 23% more is $7.38. It would take a whole lot of dollar-and-a-halfs to pay for a L2 charger.
@@krerickson1 the point is wasted electricity at scale. Not how much money you personally can save or not save. It's a Climate Crisis and a renewable energy challenge. Think beyond your personal wealth.
L1 also costs the inconvenience of not always waking up each morning to a full battery. L1 for most households still requires second gas car for days needing lots of driving.
L2 install can be cheap if your breaker panel is close to your parking / charging spot. I only spent ~$60 on supplies at the hardware store. Plenty of L2 evse's available for under $150.@@krerickson1
You are loosing so much efficiency of the power using L1 power vs installing an L2 home charger using a 40-48amp connection @ 240V = 9.6-11.5kW. Get rid of that L1 connection ASAP as it should only really be used for emergency trickle charging on the road
What do you mean by "lose efficiency"?
I appreciate your video. Very informative. With being said, F*ck this EV sh*t. Too many drawbacks. Thanks again. Great video.
Thank you for being SO clear and concise. This was very helpful.
DO NOT CHARGE AT 15A on a 15A circuit. There's are reason why stock chargers at set at 12A. Circuits are supposed to be used at 80%. If you used a 15A circuit at 100% for an extended period of time it will melt the wires in your house without tripping the breaker. Also advise agains using that silicone spacer. Outlets fail and burn when they are loose or not inserted properly due to higher contact resistance.
Nonsense
This is true in North America (the NEC specifies an 80% limit for any continuous load on a circuit - higher spikes are permitted but anything that draws current continuously like a space heater or EV charger must be limited to 80%, so 12A on a typical 15A circuit).
This is not necessarily true in other countries. Here in Australia there is no 80% rule and you can continuously draw the full rated capacity of a circuit (and manufacturer-provided EVSEs will default to using 100% of the circuit’s capacity, unlike in America).