Some suggest the thinset should be solid under a tile. The grooves set the mortar thickness, but the air gaps in between the rows allows squishing down to perfect height and level. That means there will always be some air space left below the tiles. If the floor drops away as you go to need thicker mortar, switch to a trowel with bigger notches, to avoid excessive air space underneath. I bought new-type spacers w/ a leveler wedge (Home Depot) which pulls each tile to be flush vertically with its neighbors. First time w/ those so will see how well it works.
2:23 hope no1 drops something on that corner of the tile ... also the MOST BASIC TILING INSTRUCTION IS TO DRAW STRAIGHT LINES WITH MORTAR SO THE DAMN AIR CAN ESCAPE SO THERE'S NO VOIDS BELOW TILES .... GOD DAMN 0:59
I'm laying 16m2 of tiles tomorrow and have watched this video 5 times over so far to pick up the tips. Bought all the stuff from 0:10 earlier today. Saw some comments about people not liking the music, but I couldn't be more opposite, I love the music! For some reason every time I listen to it I get enjoyment out of the audio alone! Great video, keep up the hard work!
I was concerned with this as well.. so many corners with no mortar between the tile and floor. I guarantee they stayed that way and will have cracked corners in the future.
@@chrisluellen i wanted to comment the same but noticed that on one part of the video they actually filled the corners but yeah, their mortar pattern was random ...
Do not tile directly onto concrete. Use a decoupler. If you mortar the floor directly to the concrete and the concrete cracks, which concrete often does, the tile will crack too because there is nothing between the concrete and the tile helping to preventing it. There are many products on the market, Schulter Ditra, Mapei Mapguard 2, etc. You dont want to know the cost of having to fix a cracked tile floor.
Its not absolutely necessary but if the concrete already has hairline cracks than using ditra or at least a concrete membrance that can be painted on is best. If it was my house or job, i would paint the concrete first and put concrete fabric on top of any cracks.
I see you apply tile straight onto the thin set. when do you need to use a membrane? Were doing a small area in our kitchen (90x20inches) And arent sure which method to use as weve seen it done both ways. Thanks!
Пол можно выровнять и поднять самовыравнивающийся смесью.., от 2-х миллиметров минимально и 10 сантиметров максимально... И не надо будет мучится со слоем клея...
Do you have to level the floor before laying the tile or can you just pour extra thinset to make up for the low spots? Specifically for a laundry room. Also would you happen to know if there is a maximum depth for leveling? Like if part of your house is falling down a hill and has a 2 or 3 inch low spot is it safe to have 3 inches of thinset? The reason I'm asking is for a house that has hardwood floors and I'm trying to raise the tile to be level.
@@Terry-7 It does, i actually thought their was another YT video that i forgot to turn off that was still playing in the background, and it was just odd music also.
If you plan on replacing floor regularly in a commercial setting, underlayment fabric is beneficial for prep work followed by new tile. Otherwise if you're having humidity or floor shifting problems, then you would need underlayment.
I literally been over internet for a month now just trying to get an answer about what is the deference between white thinset and grey thinset ..imagine the deference is only the colour 😤
From what i know of, if your using a white grout its better to use a white or light color thinset, same with dark grout, that way if you miss cleaning out thinset from the grout lines itll be less visible than seeing a dark color thinset on light grout
Wouldn't leveling cement have been easier than building the huge adhesive base beneath each tile? I'm also afraid that some of the corners of some of these tiles will be fragile since they have no support underneath. But excellent video though!
Nice video despite all the criticism. Converting my garage into an ADU. The foundation is concrete and 30 years old without a single crack. I really do not see any reason to put an underlayment down. I have done tile over concrete before and just wanted a refresher course and the most important thing that I got from this video is using a long straight edge to run my tile against for a straight line. I have already placed all my tile down along straight edges that I'd drawn onto the concrete floor and made all my cuts for all my tile. I was afraid that I would lose my lines when placing the mortar down and my lines would not be straight bc they were covered up my mortar. With the straight edge in place i will be able to start both my vertical and horizontal tiles in place and the rest will follow straight. I am also using the Inline Leveling caps to insure all my tile in level.
For the tile around or underneath corners, what is the proper application of thinset? Do, you just rely on buttering the tile or still need to get thin set in the hard to reach corners of the floor?
If the concrete is new then you should put some type of underlay to avoid tile cracks in the future. If your concrete is 7+ years old and you are redoing the flooring, you only need underlay if the concrete has cracks. If it looks good then no underlay required. Usually. 😉
My slab is 40 years old.. and has some minor cracks.. someone told me I can use red guard over the cracks covering 3 times the width of the tile and I should be OK. But I am a bit nervous.. what do you think?
Unless your home is 50 years old like mine and there are no cracks or other issues underneath the existing flooring. It's ok to place tile directly on concrete, methinks.
if the mortar is set evenly on each tile with no empty spaces the tile will not crack I seen on the video they left empty spaces under the tile when setting it I'm assuming thats what the membrane you suggest is for
Video does not discuss any details specific to concrete, you should change the title. Is the concrete cured, crack control, levelling or what thinset to use are all examples of useful info that should be in a video with this title. People could run into major problems without knowing more details.
This has to be some of the worst tile laying I've ever seen. To start with, at 0:57 you can see the thinset was combed in swirls, which is NOT what the NTCA recommends, as it will lead to voids. Second, the tile is being drowned in thinset - if you need to comb the backbutter you just put on, you've put on waaaaaaay too much. You can see at 1:47 the tile is just floating over the substrate. What a mess.
It was really challenging to pay attention to the instruction because of all the background noise. Since you did a voice over, maybe you could just remove the soundtrack of the unnecessary noise? It would be so helpful. Thank you.
Majority of these videos never touch on the subject of uneven cement floor. What to do if cement floor rises half an inch here and there type of scenario. If you’re going to do a tile setting video, then why talk about if floor rises just a tad and the ways to correct it. Geez 🙄
Thank you. No-nonsense approach to explaining how to lay floor tiles.
Awesome. I have a lot of floor prep before installing.
This video really needs more credit...excellent content !
Done wrong but informative 🤔
This was good. Nice job. I have a ton of work to do with ceramic coming up. After I’m done with them I should be a master by the time I’m done
Sounds like the voiceover was done during a volleyball game at the beach~
Some suggest the thinset should be solid under a tile. The grooves set the mortar thickness, but the air gaps in between the rows allows squishing down to perfect height and level. That means there will always be some air space left below the tiles. If the floor drops away as you go to need thicker mortar, switch to a trowel with bigger notches, to avoid excessive air space underneath. I bought new-type spacers w/ a leveler wedge (Home Depot) which pulls each tile to be flush vertically with its neighbors. First time w/ those so will see how well it works.
2:23 hope no1 drops something on that corner of the tile ... also the MOST BASIC TILING INSTRUCTION IS TO DRAW STRAIGHT LINES WITH MORTAR SO THE DAMN AIR CAN ESCAPE SO THERE'S NO VOIDS BELOW TILES .... GOD DAMN 0:59
I'm laying 16m2 of tiles tomorrow and have watched this video 5 times over so far to pick up the tips. Bought all the stuff from 0:10 earlier today.
Saw some comments about people not liking the music, but I couldn't be more opposite, I love the music! For some reason every time I listen to it I get enjoyment out of the audio alone! Great video, keep up the hard work!
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This is the best floor tiling video on the tube
This is THE BEST video -- thanks for taking the time to explain in detail what to do!!
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Best video I've found so far for a simple refresher on technique. That being said, wanna come help with my house? 😂
Didn't use ditra before tiling?
Absolutely a tutorial that makes everything clear without wasting time.
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You really gonna leave voids under the corners like that? Just asking for a broken tile
I was about to ask the same thing
Yeah they gonna have lots of cracking.
Lol
Looks like he back fills them towards the end of the video?
I know!
brilliant Video everything i need to know in only 5 mins
At 2:11, do you realize how many air pockets are under your tiles along the edges. Major weak spots. Or do you fill those pockets in?
Is a moisture barrier needed on that concrete or no?
@@jasonzupke1474 yes, eather way IT could break
jason, I noticed that as well. Lots of cracked tiles in the future!!!
I was concerned with this as well.. so many corners with no mortar between the tile and floor. I guarantee they stayed that way and will have cracked corners in the future.
@@chrisluellen i wanted to comment the same but noticed that on one part of the video they actually filled the corners but yeah, their mortar pattern was random ...
Great video! Straight to the point
easy to understand video.... great job
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Voids under tiles and no expansion joints
Should my concrete be treated with a sealant prior to laying down tile?
Great video. Subscribed.
Do not tile directly onto concrete. Use a decoupler. If you mortar the floor directly to the concrete and the concrete cracks, which concrete often does, the tile will crack too because there is nothing between the concrete and the tile helping to preventing it. There are many products on the market, Schulter Ditra, Mapei Mapguard 2, etc. You dont want to know the cost of having to fix a cracked tile floor.
I want to know the cost of fixing the cracked tile.... j/k! Thanks for the input.
Very impressive video
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Much respect! I thought you needed cement board or some sort of sub flooring cover over concrete. If the slab cracks the tile will too right?
Correct. I know it’s 5 months later but for the future viewer use a decoupler on new concrete because the cracks will shoot up through your tile.
What if the house is 20 years old? Ditra needed?
Thank you for this informative video
Very nice tiles design
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Do you need to use a sub floor on concrete?
I guess they funny answer questions
Its not absolutely necessary but if the concrete already has hairline cracks than using ditra or at least a concrete membrance that can be painted on is best. If it was my house or job, i would paint the concrete first and put concrete fabric on top of any cracks.
Where can I find some of that Ivory Snow A$$? (5:12)
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Do I have to use spacers for this size tiles ? My tiles are 12” x 24“.
If I don’t use a spacers, will I be able to apply grout?
use spacers. they're cheap.
I see you apply tile straight onto the thin set. when do you need to use a membrane? Were doing a small area in our kitchen (90x20inches) And arent sure which method to use as weve seen it done both ways. Thanks!
I would always use Schluter Ditra uncoupling mat!
2:51 I’m sure that was on the set of Bangbros before. 😂
Nice video
Do i need to add grout sealer after the grout?
No need you should be good
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Good job!
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Very helpful thank you
Did you need to place anything underneath the tiles ?
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Пол можно выровнять и поднять самовыравнивающийся смесью.., от 2-х миллиметров минимально и 10 сантиметров максимально... И не надо будет мучится со слоем клея...
Excellent job sir good updat
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Needs a decoupling membrane, back butter all over the tile. Don’t leave voids.
Well, I had some Bostik Porcelain Mate Cement laying around. Can I use it to fill a 2x3x3 inches hole in the wall?
Do you have to level the floor before laying the tile or can you just pour extra thinset to make up for the low spots?
Specifically for a laundry room.
Also would you happen to know if there is a maximum depth for leveling? Like if part of your house is falling down a hill and has a 2 or 3 inch low spot is it safe to have 3 inches of thinset? The reason I'm asking is for a house that has hardwood floors and I'm trying to raise the tile to be level.
You should firstly level the floor and avoid thinset.
@@huzaifazafar5310 My friend ended up going with laminate but thanks!
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Why are all the tile edges empty? With no thinset
U dont want thinset in edges you put grout
@@kylemiles9156 no, if you look at 1:49 1:50, 2:47 there is a substantial part of tile without adhesive.
I know the grout lines must be clean
@@luckystrike656 oh i see what u mean yes there are gaps or voids improper back buttering...
@@kylemiles9156 exactly. And look at 2:50 and 4:04 4:09 how thick is the thinset. Its like he is doing tiles over cement mix...
NICE
Great instructions. The music is a bit distracting, though.
Yes, the music really makes this video hard to watch.
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@@Terry-7 It does, i actually thought their was another YT video that i forgot to turn off that was still playing in the background, and it was just odd music also.
Dont you need underlayment fabric? Also, tile before cabinets?
No
detra?
I’d like an answer to this question too.
If you plan on replacing floor regularly in a commercial setting, underlayment fabric is beneficial for prep work followed by new tile. Otherwise if you're having humidity or floor shifting problems, then you would need underlayment.
depends on the concrete but I would say yes it's always recommended.
What kind of tile is that?
How did you determine the high-point of the floor?
A.B Crew 16 Lines 4D Laser Level this tool can help you find high-point
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or you apply a leveling compound and your concrete floor will be level and avoid all that
I literally been over internet for a month now just trying to get an answer about what is the deference between white thinset and grey thinset ..imagine the deference is only the colour 😤
From what i know of, if your using a white grout its better to use a white or light color thinset, same with dark grout, that way if you miss cleaning out thinset from the grout lines itll be less visible than seeing a dark color thinset on light grout
So the cheering wasnt in my head... This is good
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Wouldn't leveling cement have been easier than building the huge adhesive base beneath each tile? I'm also afraid that some of the corners of some of these tiles will be fragile since they have no support underneath. But excellent video though!
Leveling cement doesn’t stick or level as well as doing the cement coat and the adhesive seperately
How can we cut ties without a saw?🙊
Painstakingly
How long for the thinset to dry with the tile on the concrete?
1 or 2 days.
Nice video despite all the criticism. Converting my garage into an ADU. The foundation is concrete and 30 years old without a single crack. I really do not see any reason to put an underlayment down. I have done tile over concrete before and just wanted a refresher course and the most important thing that I got from this video is using a long straight edge to run my tile against for a straight line. I have already placed all my tile down along straight edges that I'd drawn onto the concrete floor and made all my cuts for all my tile. I was afraid that I would lose my lines when placing the mortar down and my lines would not be straight bc they were covered up my mortar. With the straight edge in place i will be able to start both my vertical and horizontal tiles in place and the rest will follow straight. I am also using the Inline Leveling caps to insure all my tile in level.
For the tile around or underneath corners, what is the proper application of thinset? Do, you just rely on buttering the tile or still need to get thin set in the hard to reach corners of the floor?
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If the concrete is new then you should put some type of underlay to avoid tile cracks in the future. If your concrete is 7+ years old and you are redoing the flooring, you only need underlay if the concrete has cracks. If it looks good then no underlay required. Usually. 😉
My slab is 40 years old.. and has some minor cracks.. someone told me I can use red guard over the cracks covering 3 times the width of the tile and I should be OK. But I am a bit nervous.. what do you think?
Redguard should have instructions on how to do that. I know you can do it with Mapei's waterproof and their fiberglass tape.@@mikes.3192
No primer ?
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Sharp
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To a regular person, it looks perfect; however, it is not installed correctly. You need an uncoupling membrane installed on the concrete first.
Here’s what I want to know? How did the Roman’s successfully manage to tile concrete that lasted 2000 years without access to Ditra?
@@mikebonello7494 They forgot to watch RUclips videos!
You need a crack control membrane underneath
Unless your home is 50 years old like mine and there are no cracks or other issues underneath the existing flooring. It's ok to place tile directly on concrete, methinks.
if the mortar is set evenly on each tile with no empty spaces the tile will not crack I seen on the video they left empty spaces under the tile when setting it I'm assuming thats what the membrane you suggest is for
Do you use thinset to bond membrane to concrete?
Save
Video does not discuss any details specific to concrete, you should change the title. Is the concrete cured, crack control, levelling or what thinset to use are all examples of useful info that should be in a video with this title. People could run into major problems without knowing more details.
5:02 who has old cheese cloth sitting around?
Usually people who bake
Instructions unclear. Now i got peanut butter under the tiles instead of mortar and mayonnaise in the tile spaces
Here because I’m too broke to pay 7000 for someone to do it so maybe I can give it a try 😂
That's a lot of thinset
You went from thin set to mastic.
Is it pronounced " go to" or " godew"
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This has to be some of the worst tile laying I've ever seen. To start with, at 0:57 you can see the thinset was combed in swirls, which is NOT what the NTCA recommends, as it will lead to voids. Second, the tile is being drowned in thinset - if you need to comb the backbutter you just put on, you've put on waaaaaaay too much. You can see at 1:47 the tile is just floating over the substrate.
What a mess.
It was really challenging to pay attention to the instruction because of all the background noise. Since you did a voice over, maybe you could just remove the soundtrack of the unnecessary noise? It would be so helpful. Thank you.
😂😂
A lot of these tiles will be drumy
Simple math replaces silly midline technique.
I wouldn’t take advice from this guy on how to clean a trowel let alone lay tile.
Majority of these videos never touch on the subject of uneven cement floor. What to do if cement floor rises half an inch here and there type of scenario. If you’re going to do a tile setting video, then why talk about if floor rises just a tad and the ways to correct it. Geez 🙄
Most distracting music ever
Pointless music and whooping, had to turn off half way through.
No need for the background music
Too much work. I will get a man to do it.
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