I play euphonium, but I don't repair myself. I've always been fascinated with instrument repair. Getting an instrument working that has tolerances of less than a millimetre is more art than anything.
I've always wondered if a system like this might be used to remove dents from steel bicycle frame tubing. Steel is much less malleable than brass, but with a strong enough magnet and a 27.2mm ball it might work on a thin-walled steel frame.
Well, for one the magnet would stick to the bike frame! It works (kinda) on brass instruments because brass is 1) non magnetic, 2) malleable and 3) thin walled. Even then it's a bit hit and miss, the bigger the ball you can use the stronger the bond and the more effective the action, and a 27mm ball is on the small side even in this application.
You might have to go with more traditional body work methods... drill/pull/weld/fill/repaint. With vehicles you often have to get a dolly on one side to hammer against which can require drilling out spot welds and replacing if no other access is available. Suction pullers will work as long as the perimeter of the dent isn't too creased. That said, if a dent in a bike tube isn't structural better to leave alone... and even if it's non ferrous metal there are hardly any entrance points for balls to put inside unless you want to do a lot of welding or brazing .. That said... this was a fun video. I just started cleaning my coronet that I've hardly played in 40 years and after some tests to determine that what i thought was red rot turned out to be where I'd ignorantly used Brasso and stripped lacquer and was just tarnished /etched fingerprints ... is gotten me to want to work on many of the dents that predated my ownership of the instrument now that plain and lacquered brass are both quite shiny... in one hour of basic cleaning (including 40 year old food go from when i was in jr high school in the mouthpiece!!!) I discovered the sound quite improved. I intend to strip it down and do a through job when i have time... i wish my early instructors had shown us basic maintenance practices and maybe id have stuck with it longer... the bore off my mouthpiece was less than 1/2 its actual diameter with gunk! I know i got off topic but i live these videos... this is something i can enjoy that never occurred to me 40 years ago!
Art how does one control thinning of the brass or when to anneal or not? I would imagine there is some visible signs that let you know it has been worked enough.
It is very difficult to anneal because the heat burns the lacquer and melts all the solder joints. Because of this, usually annealing is only done when the instrument is already dis-assembled for an overhaul. You know you need to anneal when there are serious dents that require a lot of work or when you can feel the brass getting hard to work.
Why not cover the magnets with a felt so that it will not damage the lacquer finish? A spray adhesive will allow you to add a circle of felt that will protect the magnet and the instrument and not effect the magnetic properties. Plus it will glide over the instrument smoothly.
After 3 years I finally could have my own initial kit of MDRS.. I've been waiting for so long 😅 thanks for your videos!!!
How much it cost?
Where did you get it?
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I find it facinating to see the specialised tools for instrument repair work.
One of my all time favorite videos☺
I play euphonium, but I don't repair myself. I've always been fascinated with instrument repair. Getting an instrument working that has tolerances of less than a millimetre is more art than anything.
Good job. "Body work" is time consuming and requires: time, money, and is an art.
Fascinating! Another great video, thanks so much!!!
If only i was watching this for entertainment and not because i have to do it.
Would it help to anneal the brass first? It would be somewhat re-tempered when it is rolled out. Any lacquer would be cooked I imagine.
tnq very much ❤️
Good video, thanks!
I've always wondered if a system like this might be used to remove dents from steel bicycle frame tubing. Steel is much less malleable than brass, but with a strong enough magnet and a 27.2mm ball it might work on a thin-walled steel frame.
Well, for one the magnet would stick to the bike frame!
It works (kinda) on brass instruments because brass is 1) non magnetic, 2) malleable and 3) thin walled. Even then it's a bit hit and miss, the bigger the ball you can use the stronger the bond and the more effective the action, and a 27mm ball is on the small side even in this application.
You might have to go with more traditional body work methods... drill/pull/weld/fill/repaint. With vehicles you often have to get a dolly on one side to hammer against which can require drilling out spot welds and replacing if no other access is available. Suction pullers will work as long as the perimeter of the dent isn't too creased. That said, if a dent in a bike tube isn't structural better to leave alone... and even if it's non ferrous metal there are hardly any entrance points for balls to put inside unless you want to do a lot of welding or brazing ..
That said... this was a fun video. I just started cleaning my coronet that I've hardly played in 40 years and after some tests to determine that what i thought was red rot turned out to be where I'd ignorantly used Brasso and stripped lacquer and was just tarnished /etched fingerprints ... is gotten me to want to work on many of the dents that predated my ownership of the instrument now that plain and lacquered brass are both quite shiny... in one hour of basic cleaning (including 40 year old food go from when i was in jr high school in the mouthpiece!!!) I discovered the sound quite improved. I intend to strip it down and do a through job when i have time... i wish my early instructors had shown us basic maintenance practices and maybe id have stuck with it longer... the bore off my mouthpiece was less than 1/2 its actual diameter with gunk!
I know i got off topic but i live these videos... this is something i can enjoy that never occurred to me 40 years ago!
Can you do a video on rethreading tuba valve tube?
Art how does one control thinning of the brass or when to anneal or not? I would imagine there is some visible signs that let you know it has been worked enough.
It is very difficult to anneal because the heat burns the lacquer and melts all the solder joints. Because of this, usually annealing is only done when the instrument is already dis-assembled for an overhaul. You know you need to anneal when there are serious dents that require a lot of work or when you can feel the brass getting hard to work.
@@TheBrassandWoodwindShop Thank you Art.
That is one powerful magnet. You've got some good moxie to get that ball off. I was getting tired just watching. LOL!
I've seen people rope calves with less energy spent than wrestling against that drum head.
Wow. How long has the dent ball system been around?
I am not sure, but I think it is around 30 years.
What is the power of those magnet and can they work with trumpets, horns and trombone slides?
Thanks!
I am not sure what the power is. They do not work well on smaller tubing. They really only work well on baritones, euphoniums, sousaphones, and tubas.
Mister repair man.thumbs up !.
Wondering, how do those dents affect the sound?
JIM 🤔
❤
Why not cover the magnets with a felt so that it will not damage the lacquer finish? A spray adhesive will allow you to add a circle of felt that will protect the magnet and the instrument and not effect the magnetic properties. Plus it will glide over the instrument smoothly.
Felt will collect dirt and metal filings and scratch the instrument. I use an old drum head with trombone cream between the magnet and instrument.
Dimana harus beli magnet ini
balls are expensive