DIESEL HEATER for roof top tent for UNDER $150
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- How to heat your roof top tent with a diesel heater for under $150
Parts:
- Diesel heater: amzn.to/31zPnJv
- Cheaper, more powerful model diesel heater with remote: amzn.to/39q3l3J
- Tool box: amzn.to/31vwAiy
- Fuel line: amzn.to/2Uw1h5R
- Jackery: amzn.to/2n6hMGV
More details, suggestions, and notes: www.revereover...
See off_trail_expedition on Instagram: / off_trail_expedition
Addressing comments - Fuel pump, plastic tool box, return air, Buddy heater safety, does it still work?
Fuel pump: This should be at 45 degrees (fuel flow up), and not horizontal!
Plastic tool box: The plastic tool box is absolutely fine. There is no heat build up inside the tool box, and the heater itself has a plastic casing anyway. The only thing is to make sure the exhaust does not directly contact the plastic. I did a follow up video showing the temperatures: ruclips.net/video/zK9-UhRRdts/видео.html
Return air: return air will increase efficiency slightly. I did a second version of the heater based on feedback on this video that allowed for return air: ruclips.net/video/LvHJdjIwjao/видео.html
Buddy heater safety: I've had quite a few people commenting on here that Buddy heaters are catalytic heaters, so don't/can't produce CO. That is false for two reasons. The first is that Buddy heaters are NOT catalytic heaters. The second reason is that catalytic heaters can still produce CO. It's an incredibly common misconception that catalytic heaters can't/don't produce CO, but the catalyst doesn't actually change the chemical reaction at all. You have all of the same byproducts. The difference a catalyst makes is that it makes the reaction a lot more efficient. There is less propane used, therefore less oxygen used, and a much lower chance of CO being produced. That being said, the chances of CO problems with either are incredibly slim with adequate ventilation.
Does it still work?: Yes. But I gave it to a friend. I switched to a more expensive and (in my opinion) better heater. See more here: ruclips.net/video/_5S5G0maUJM/видео.html
Maybe the return air could be half from the tent and half from outside. Maybe a butterfly valve or two so you can adjust and experiment. I am thinking of replacing my center console with something like this. Good idea using a tool box. Thanks for the video!
*Install was easy **fireplace.homes** good although I personally had some difficulty with the thermostat I had. Issue was mine though, not realizing that electric heaters couldn't use oil thermostats. Tip: If you are using an external thermostat, run the power to the thermostat, not the unit. Once that was squared away it worked great.*
Great job, I never would have figured that tool box would have worked for you like that, BRILLIANT, GENIUS? BTW one of the advantages of diesel is it does not catch fire. Try this get some diesel put some diesel in a shallow bowl or glass, light a cigerette and put it out in the diesel, you can do that again and again , and nothing will happen. Don't you dare try that with gasoline.
So heres the formula, Diesel combusts; Gasoline burns, gasoline vapors or fumes EXPLODE, the fumes will actually chase you and burn.
Great video!! One suggestion for your intake for the hot air. Run another duct into your tent, this keeps snow out and helps heat already heated air- you will save massive amounts of fuel by keeping the intake as warm as possible.
Hmmm, interesting!
This I think it’s a quantum leap forward in heating your space
Mr buddy is the best quick and easy especially with the adapter hose and the cylinder refill adapter.
Also burning diesel has more emissions and more of an impact to the very thing you are trying to protect and admire NATURE.
Just my 2 cents.
You could insulate the exhaust pipe and have the the heater inside the tent and run combustion inlet, exhaust and fuel line outside to make the heater more effective. Or have the heater outside and run both inlet and outlet in to the tent. In both ways you´re not heating cold outside air but circulating the inside air makeing it more effective.
i ran into your buddy with the Hummer down by cumberland falls a few months back who said his son had the Buddy heater explode in his RTT. I'm assuming those are the pics you showed. WOW.
I'm using the buddy heater now, but when i use it i make sure i keep it in the annex down low and away from the occupants of the tent. That guy scared the daylights out of me with that story!
Yeah he sent me those pictures!
@@RevereOverland sheesh, I hope it was a fluke accident. Thanks for the video, next winter I'll give it a whirl. See ya out there on the KAT 👍
Also, having the hole box in the tent, so intake and output for heating the air is inside, is smart. It'll use a lot less fuel and electricity because it'll use already heated air instead of the cold outside air.
I was thinking the same thing or maybe run another air duct into the tent through another window or something.
@@nathanbrown5099 It's been a year or so since I wrote that comment, and this is just a quick reply without watching the vid again and stuff. I should clarify that the diesel heater has two intakes and two exhausts. One intake is the air that's to be heated and blown into the living space. The other intake is for the combustion chamber. I meant putting the intake for the heating chamber inside the tent, so you didn't have to heat up the air 40 degrees, instead of just from the inside air. The intake for the combustion chamber should be outside and suck in dryest possible air for best combustion, unless it's too cold to keep the diesel/carosene burning. The exhaust from the combustion chamber should always be outside, far away from the tent. I just want to be clear, but you probably understood this already! :D
@@LA6NPA yes I understood no confusion I understood your point I agree completely I was just agreeing.
@@nathanbrown5099 Awesome! I don't want anyone to die from carbon monoxide! :D
@@LA6NPA Tents can definitely accumulate CO2 if they are four season tents. Though it is less efficient, there are probably situations where you would also prefer to have a constant stream of fresh air forced in, but the system is flexible so both options are viable depending on your setup and comfort level routing the intake into the tent.
Saw this when it first came out. I have an enclosed trailer that I use to haul and camp. I bought a wood stove to hear it and it just didn’t work out. So I bought one of the diesel heaters. With all those parts thrown in a bag, it as a bit overwhelming. I was gonna build a wood enclosure, then I remembered your video. Had an old toolbox similar to the one you used. The installation you described was great and helped organize my install. Can’t wait to try it out! THANK YOU!
Love it! One thing I would suggest is to move the fuel line away from the exhaust line to the other side of the air intake line. Overall, very creative! Thanks!!
Just wrap some copper tubing around the exhaust pipe & you got a water heater
They do make one that is both a water heater and air heater.
@@mwatercress got a link??? can't seem to find one!
@@HugDeeznueces I haven't used this but here is a video with an Alibaba link.ruclips.net/video/vtvy2MwbArQ/видео.html
The exhaust comes out at 451 deg F so there's quite a bit of heat to be had if you can extract it without restricting the flow.
Great idea. Morning coffee ready in a minute. 😀😂😎
SIR... YOU ARE AN ABSOLUTE GENIUS!!! It's People like you and the Ideas you share is what makes RUclips so useful and enjoyable!!
Hey man I think you may run in to water leaking problems through the handle of the toolbox. It depends on the design but water can pool in the handle recession and leak in through the holes that penetrate in to the box to secure the handle in place. I recommend adding something to the top of the lid or covering it from the rain in some way. Or put drain holes in the bottom.
Remember a CO alarm, there are 3 gaskets, one rubber and two hard, if one fails you could get combustion air in your tent. Also if you get running problems, try turning the pump 45deg (output up)
I ordered the same kit and haven’t installed it yet. As I am a diesel mechanic by trade I would recommend changing the air intake filter to something with more filtration than the included filter. If you examine it close you will notice that it’s just a piece of screen that has bigger holes than a screen in your house and isn’t really doing anything by way of protecting the internals of the combustion chamber. Mine came with the same thing and I replaced it with a little air filter from any parts store that they sell as a crankcase breather filter for an engine.
Very awesome build...neat and simple. To those going on about the exhaust melting this and that....It is a heat exchanger...not like a typical furnace where most of the heat goes out the exhaust. It is designed in such a way as to transfer much of the heat internally and then out through the vent with the aid of a fan. This is one reason they are so efficient.
I have to agree with the comments about the heater in a plastic box. Also, inlet for the the heater should be a return air from a low point in the tent. That will make the heater much more efficient than heating cold air. This is not to mention that if your tent is moderately airtight the blower in the heater is will be inefficient.
You did do a great job presenting your build.
The plastic box is absolutely fine, as long as the exhaust doesn't contact it. The heater itself has a plastic casing, and there is no heat buildup in the box! I considered a return air, but decided against it. The heater is so efficient that it runs on low all night anyway!
@@RevereOverland They look like awesome heaters. I'd like to try one out for sure!
Diese heaters are awesome. I would still use a CO detector though. A heat exchanger can crack (especially off-roading) and cause you to wake up dead!
Not a bad idea. I do think you'd smell it if the heat exchanged cracked though - diesel exhaust, unlike CO, is pretty pungent!
Revere Overland it is but if it’s burning efficiently you might not. People have died with propane and natural gas this way
@@shaweehillsworkshop4226 that's true. Since the whole unit is outside, it has a lot more oxygen than something in a tent. In addition to a broken heat exchanger, you'd have to have something block the combustion intake (like snow) for that to happen!
You would smell it. Infact that is the type heater used in big truck sleepers and from time to time you will smell diesel when starting it up. I will be going with one like that but propane for my teardrop
@@virginiaoverlander4720 which propane one are you looking at?
I just bought an old Prius, between the front seats (being pushed all the foward) to the hatch i have about 7 feet of lay down space. I can set the climate control on and gas engine will kick on 2 to 4 minutes of every hour to either kee pool the car warm or cold.
I do that with my RAV4 Hybrid AWD. Costs a $1 a night for extreme weather, hot or cold. Trouble is the earlier generations external lights stayed off the new ones don't. I am doing a paper mache mould on all front and rear lights and painting them matt black with velour on the inside to prevent scratching to stick on so that the lights are blacked out. Pain in the ass though.
What model of climate control should it be? Does engine start automaticall?
That bend *up* in the exhaust pipe under the toolbox can collect moisture. There should be a constant downward slope so water drains out.
Just got my diesel heater and tonight will be the first time Ill be using it on my minimate camper.
This is pretty nice for car camping, also pretty good when youre car breaks down and you want to be warm while looking at the snow accumulate and youre directing your own version of the shining.
Downside is a mathusion mind puzzle, batterys dont work in the cold.(final scene jack froze).
I built one into a case, fully self contained, exhaust out the back, inboard fuel tank and battery plus a charger that can plug in to keep up the battery and remote control.
Also uses 3" hi temp rugged heater hose with 3" cam and groove fittings.
Mine draws in outside air, tested it tent camping in Bryce Canyon, 8,000' low of 25⁰ Farenheit.
ruclips.net/video/q7q4E111x3c/видео.html
I see in your video you have placed your pump at horizontal . For the piston to be lubricated properly it should be angled at about 45 degrees or vertical. Also make sure that your lighter connection is very secure because if it disconnects whilst in operation the unit could overheat and destroy itself . Liked the idea of your case but I think steel or aluminum could be better . Also if the pump noise is too loud, try suspending with cable ties . I find this helps quite a lot . Ten out of ten for ingenuity though.
Thanks! I corrected the pump angle, and put the update on the website build info. I blame the crappy instructions for that one! I think the pump noise has been better since changing the angle, but I might be wrong.
@@RevereOverland yes you are definitely correct about the instructions. I now own 2 of these units, one I fitted into my motorhome and the other in my workshop. Both are working very well. Took some of your ideas when I built the workshop one . Many thanks Syd.
Built one in a Husky box a few months back and works flawless in the cold
I do use a car air filter for the intake air which helps keep dust down in the tent :)
Space the heater from the bottom of the box so the fuel line doesn’t have to exit the tool box and then right back in going from the pump to the heater. Also I’d imagine that enough heat is going to be transferred through the metal clamp holding the exhaust and melt the plastic.
The fuel pump clicking on those is a lot quieter if you don't mount them and just let them hang freely and not bumping against anything. I'm not sure if there is a mechanical reason you should mount it though. I know mine seems to work fine without being mounted. I check the connections on it though from time to time just to make sure. No adjustments needed yet.
Also, every source I've found recommends running it on full blast for about 10 to 15 minutes before turning it off. Apparently this helps burn off any soot that has formed inside. If too much soot forms inside then it eventually will fail to start until you clean it out.
I like the idea of using a toll box. Very smart idea. It keeps it simple. And you can use it anywhere.
You can buy them in a metal box that has fuel tank and pump installed on Amazon for about $130 . Has handle to carry. Just need to hookup exhaust and intake.
I like how you have it set up. Thank you for the demonstration of your diesel heater installation. .
_Dude! I Installed those heaters, and when I tell you! You have done all the DON'TS for this. Please ask I'll give the information to you and others. I want you and ALL other safe!_
Please share your wisdom!
C’mon man, don’t tease us!
_For: Bruce Swabb first I wouldn't mount to a plastic box, just go straight to and use a metal or aluminum box. The exhaust pipe gets super hot. Try to use what they give you for the exhaust pipe. The pump needs to be at 30 degrees or straight up, this is to help the air bubbles to escape into the burn unit. But the pump needs to be under the heater, as in an upward direction to the heater. The filter and pump need to be close to the fuel source, and then the filter can be mounted in any position after it has been primed. Use the 2mm ID x 4 or 6mm OD hard nylon or PTFE tubing for the fuel system. Some of these kits come with the hard nylon tubing, and if so us it. If not, and they have soft tubing, just shit can it and buy the right tubing. There a lot of reasons why and away too long to explain. That short and to the point for fuel lines. Exhaust should be at a natural downward flow and try not to use another pipe to make it longer. If you follow these simple rules, these heaters should last a very long time, plus regular maintenance. If you have any other questions, please ask, we'll keep them here and open for all to view._
@@FirstSuiGeneris thanks. Check out the website, where I have some suggested changes: www.revereoverland.com/heater
That metal exhaust tube will get VERY hot. It is secured with a metal clamp in contact and right against the plastic tool box less than 10 inches, 25 cm from the exhaust port of the heater. That can not possibly work very long without melting plastic. Great idea all the same. i doubt most people would need to modify their install after testing of using. Cheers
That tapping would rock me right to sleep , lol. That is an awesome contraption !!! I like this a lot
It's really not a bad noise. I like the white noise of the fan!
The clock on my wall is louder than the fuel pump. I have the pump suspended in air (versus mounted onto something) using zip ties/cable ties. If it is surface mounted, the sound gets transferred and somewhat amplified. Mine sounds like it is in the distance.
And the fan noise is hardly noticeable, btw.😊
I would install some C-shaped stainless steel grab handles, similar to what you might find in a boat, and mount them at each end of the box where the exhaust and intake outlets are, at the bottom of the box, so the box can be raised up and rest on the 'handles' which actually become legs. The Stanley tool box has splayed 'outposts' on each corner perfect for mounting the C-shaped handles which then form the legs..
Since it will allow mounting in different direction I would have
A. Mounted it to have the air and fuel intakes on the side so the box would sit flat.
B. Mount it in a bigger box to put a battery in with the unit.
C. Mount the fuel tank on top of the box and let it gravity feed?
Just things I would try if it were me.
Now I have to get one for my boat!
Diesel heater exhaust tubing can get up to 1500 degree F at bends and averages 400 to 600 F if restricted.
I would NEVER attach the tubing to a meltable or combustable surface. It also would not hurt to insulate it to prevent accidental burns. Find a large metal ammo box and do the same. Toss the plastic box. You will live longer.
You asked suggestions, maybe 90 degree elbows on the bottom to allow it to be flatter and put some kind of feet on the corners so it would sit flat it you set it on the ground for some reason. Awesome build and 4runners ftw
well thats an answer to a question I've been asking myself for ages!!! Excellent job and if I ever get to the point that I need to do it, I know where to come!!!
Great video! The best out there explaining a setup with diesel heater for overland use. Sounds like it has an average power draw about like a fridge, not bad. A year ago off trail expedition explained the setup but seemed pretty complicated. This shows it to be very doable. I will be making the switch away from Buddy Heater to a diesel heater for next winter.
Yeah it looks complicated when you see a box of wires and fuel lines, but it's not bad to put together! I think the draw is a little more than your average fridge overall, and will obviously vary based on temperature. I'll probably go to dual battery at some point.
I have this system for my RTT / annex room for two years and it work great no more dealing with condensation produce by previously mr.buddy heater. I just build a leg frame from PVC (no enclosure box) so the the heater box does not get overheated then I put it in under my jeep. Run the output + return airduct pipe and the control display in the annex room. So the whole system does not sit or touching the body of vehicle, this way I'm barely hear the fuel pump ticking noise and a humming from the blower motor. On the side note: You're going to get dry roasted like a roasted peanut inside your RTT with this heater next to you :-) it get really hot even in the lowest setting. That's why I put mine in the annex room. Oh those fuel pump it work better on 45 degree angle, not horizontal......
It's interesting you say that about the fuel pump. Someone else said to mount vertically. The instructions specifically say to mount horizontally! It's good to hear these heat really well. I've been second guessing not putting a return air in, but it sounds as though it's not really needed.
Wouldn’t you want the air intake to be routed to the tent as well? That way you are circulating the tent air through the heater and not heating the outside air for a little more efficiency. I guess I think of it as a home heating system supply and return air.
That’s something I seriously considered, because it will increase efficiency. I like the idea of pulling in fresh air too though. What I’ll probably do is add a quick connect/disconnect to both ends in the future, and try it out.
@@RevereOverland I opted for a hybrid solution: my return air feeds into a large box (on the front of the trailer) with open floor for venting and fresh air. In theory, the return air will mix with the fresh outside air and I'm hoping that will give me a good mix of both, although the coldest temps I expect to encounter are freezing or a little below. In a really cold climate, return air alone would probably be better IMO.
I tried and mine gave an over heat error code. In short, I don’t think it likes using recirculated air.
Actually no you want it to draw in cool air, which will cool the electronic circuit system in the unit. Plus you would want fresh air, not reheated stagnant air circulating in your bunk.
The literally trivial amount of diesel saved by recirculating the heated tent air isn’t worth it given the thermal efficiency of diesel in terms of therms per gram of diesel and it offsets the risks or combustion inversion where diesel fumes and potentially diesel exhaust get vented into the tent should you have an ignition problem or fueling problem. Heating 32deg F air to 72deg F air is trivial, the “efficiency” savings are not worth it.
I have a diesel heater and it is great. The noise from the fuel pump was driving me crazy as it was mounted to the floor of my trailer- i saw on a RUclips video to hang the fuel pump freestanding, so I hung it from a couple of cable ties as an experiment----- all most soundless! I now have it hung from a couple hanger springs.
That's an interesting idea. I thought about putting mine in some sound insulation.
@@RevereOverland -did that and it was about the same noise level-I guess it was mounted to something solid? My hat off to whoever came up with the free mount.
THANK YOU!! This video really helped me and has saved me a lot of time and effort. I have a converted enclosed cargo trailer. I WAS going to build a large cabinet inside the camper one section of which would be for the diesel heater. Thank god I saw your video first. That pump would drive me crazy. Tick, tick, tick, no thank you. It never occurred to me to mount the heater outside and duct the heat in. I did an AC with ducting in and out so why not a heater? Brilliant!! For now I am using electric. Propane is useless due to condensation and multiple other reason which you clearly explained. I will feed off your design and build one like this for next winter mounting it externally on the trailer hitch bar. THANK YOU AGAIN.
My clock on the wall is louder than the fuel pump. I have the pump suspended by zip ties so that the sound(tick tick tick) is not transmitted to anything solid. It sounds like it is in the distance, and the fan is hardly noticeable.
@@patrickbodine6010 Thank you for the info, duly noted. However this video caused me to walk around my little home and check out suitable spots. Even if the noise from the fuel pump is not as bad as I thought mounting it outside is still a really good idea. I have a rear ramp and it is going on there. Perfect location. When the ramp goes down it will clear the ground easily and the possible diesel smell plus tick tick is now outside. Can you tell me how much diesel the tank holds and how long that typically lasts for?
@@izifaddag8221 there is, literally, no diesel smell. As long as the exhaust is not able to get into your living enclosure, you should not experience any odors. Initially, when you start up the heater for the first time, there may be a slight odor that will pass from the unit itself. The fan noise is really minimal, and the heater just sips fuel. In my area, which is out in the country, non-taxed fuel is readily available for around $2.20/gal. Plus/minus a few cents. I have not run the heater at full speed because my house would get too hot. So, I run it at the not absolute minimum but low and it keeps my place real comfy. Fuel usage, overnight, running at the 1.4 setting, is approximately 1 1/2 liters.
I never run it over 3.0. It is suggested that after running the heater at or near minimum, you run it at 3.0 or so for about 15 minutes to burn off any possible carbon build up.
My heater came with a bad pump, but the seller refunded me $20 and the replacement was $12. 😉
Replacement parts are available from ebay, and are inexpensive. I would not hesitate to buy another one if I had a need.
@@izifaddag8221 I have a 5 gallon diesel fuel container with the hose coming out of the pour nozzle. That way no water can get in and I dont need to drill any holes. If/when I need to fill it up, I just use a small clamp to keep fuel from flowing and using a funnel, pour in the fuel. Easy stuff! K.I.S.S. Not using the tank that came with the heater. 5 liters, I think. Just look to see where the best place to install it. Mine is located above the wheel well on the inside fender with the exhaust going one way &the intake air, the other. Best of luck!🙂
the stiff fuel line is actually provided for a specific reason. the flexible rubber line absorbes some of the pulses from the fuel pump.. using rubber fuel line after the fuel pump will decrease efficiency and eventually cause major carbonization of the chamber (experience speaking - i own 3 heaters ) up to the fuel pump is ok . other than that .. awesome build..
I got one awhile back. I really enjoy it. I put mine in my wood shop. Small shop. Yet it's in my shop with the exhaust outside, it would still find it's way in. So I took an copper 3/4 pipe and put it over the roof line with making the top take a long curve pointing down. Keep rain and snow out. Then another problem came up. Those heaters are no different then an vehicle. Water comes out of the pipe. So as what you are doing with an tent and where the exhaust pipe you have two things to look out for. 1 the exhaust. 2 water coming out of the exhaust pipe. I put an tee on my exhaust pipe and ran it down to get rid of the water so that the exhaust can run up freely. One more thing. When you first buy one and get it. With the unit by itself fully together. Check to see if the fan is rubbing on the casing. If so very carefully take the top off. Take some light sandpaper or an knife and carefully go around the fan edges to get rid of the rubbing without putting the fan out of balance. Take care.
The exhaust is something I’m definitely going to work on. Right now, mine angles up, then goes down. There’s no way for condensation to escape.
@@RevereOverland my pipe that goes over my roof top is just about a full length of copper pipe. Before I put an tee in it so the water has an Escape and let the exhaust out, mine would with the curve be blocked by the water. That's at the highest point. So it has a lot that comes out. Not just a little. Yet I'm very impressed with the heater. I really enjoy it. Also the lights for my little shops are all on solar. 12 volt system. Yes starting it and shutting it down takes extra energy. The glow plug. Yet at night with the lights on and on only 3 batteries system, I can run it for hours with no problems. Like I said, I'm very impressed. Take care.
This is by far your coolest most creative educational video! You send data that's brand-new to my brain. And I don't see anybody else doing this whatsoever. I've always wanted to do something like this. And I think that it's amazing that you took the time to figure it all out and make it actually happen!
Thank you! A lot of credit has to go to Mike from @off_trail_expedition though!
@@RevereOverland No really, thank you, I'm sure other people have thought of this but to take the time to build on camera and test on camera is a high level of extra work and I appreciate you.
Sorry if someone already said this but I think that an air intake filiter with a right angle to prevent water and particulate being introduced would be a wise addition.
Nice run through and build, about to do the same inside an alloy tread plate chilly bin which is mounted to my box camp trailer as the tent 👍is mounted to that. I camp all year round in New Zealand and this will just add a little comfort on really cold night.
Good Review, just made one myself and it works great. it is nice to have a small section of clear tubing for the fuel so you can see the fuel flowing when priming. The instructions I received said the fuel pump needs to be mounted at 15 - 35 degrees, I also noticed a name brand reference the same angle as well. Great build. Grab an extra controller as a backup cause mine has already died after the first couple uses.
I have the same diesel heater and I would suggest getting a 1 inch wide strip of fiberglass insulation and wrap it around the exhaust chamber near the plastic of the toolbox because that pipe will get too hot and you have a bracket on the hot pipe screwed into the toolbox it will melt their also I did not see the muffler on the end of the tailpipe you may want to put the muffler on and it will be quieter operation also my portable power system has a solar panel if your jackery has a solar panel to charge up during the day good video have a nice day
I’ve put a webasto in a van before but I’m thinking about going back to a truck with tent on top. Was thinking of ways to do this and started researching. voila! Here it is. Thanks! Subscribed! I might even put a splitter in the warm air hose and run air to tent and to bed/ shell of truck for my dogs in winter.
The kit I bought and linked comes with a splitter so you can send the heat to two places!
@@RevereOverland thanks!! Youda man!
I think I would mount the heater in a cheap cooler for better sound insulation as that would keep me awake. Great product and review.
That's not a bad idea at all, to reduce the tapping from the fuel pump. I like the fan noise though, since it's a good white noise.
you should have mounted the heater higher in the box so you could run a 90 elbow and vent the exhaust out the side. the intake can stay in the box, you could also fit a small tank inside the box too and have everything inside worst case by a larger box. you can also get a remote for that display
Ha! Well, this leaves me feeling conflicted! I couldn't decide between fitting a heater inside my Landy or on the roof rack (making holes for exhaust and intake vs one larger hole for the air out). It took a while before I decided the roof rack would be best (would work when I get my roof tent added, and in the meantime saves space and will work with my side tent). Took me a while to brainstorm how to do it. Bought a big, waterproof Stanley toolbox. Was just checking a few videos to get some reassurance on the install, and here you are! Almost exactly what I had in mind, with very few differences. I'm disappointed I'm not being as original as I thought, but really feeling more confident now I've seen you do it! Fantastic work - thanks a lot!
you can put a two ways splitter at the hot air coming out and run one hose to the tent and one to a restroom tent.
Blower is quite relaxing - but I'd enclose the pump better to remove as much noise as possible. Great build!
Yeah I’m thinking about how to reduce the noise from it in V2
Have you considered making the warm air flow into a recycling system? You might want to run a line from the inside of your tent/trailer/camper to the outside cold air inlet and the the unit air outlet line to the tent. If you place them on opposite or top and bottom areas of the tent you will be warming the internal air and so use less fuel as the air going from the tent to the unit air inlet will be warmer than outside air. If you are concerned with a CO2 buildup just make a "y" connector on the cold air inlet with a small filter to add small amounts of O2 from outside.
I have considered it. Check out Friday’s video to see why I don’t think it’s necessary!
Insulation on the heat pipe from tool box to tent. Good chance yoh lose some heat there.
Once you figure out how much 12v power wire you need reduce it down or better yet make a connection port from outside the tool box (weather resistant) and inside the tool box. Plug it into power outside the tool box.
Pretty cool and compact setup. I'm not sure if you know but they make these as unit in an enclosure complete with fuel tank so you can avoid all that work.
that style of heater is fantastic. we have them in very heavy equipment 90 ton cranes, and they will run the operator out. didnt think of looking on amazon for one. dont even want to tell you how much we paided for the last one....im getting one for my moteehome
I really love the way you used a stanley tool box for it, bloody brilliant, i am about to fit one on my boat and have been thinking about installing it outside as they can be noisey, this is an idea i think i may take up.
I mounted my diesel heater in a caravan and a 5KW heater is way big enough.....with the fuel pump I mounted it using cable ties so the pump is suspended and not fixed, much more quiet now. I would assume a 2KW heater is ample for a RTT? You can actually now buy the heaters in their own portable box, so that the heater just goes on the floor and the heat is ducted to the tent. On you tube there is a comparison between the $1000+ units and the bay specials and they are basically the same in construction.
Advise against using anything other than the supplied PE fuel line on the suction side of your fuel pump. Suction line needs to be hard lining to prevent liner collapse, ruining pulse dosage volume, running rich or lean, not spot on fuel/air mix.
i would add a heat shield between the fuel line and hot exhaust line for an added air gap
There is a freestanding model with tank etc in a case
BRILLIANT you just simplified my problem.
A name or a link would be pretty cool info to share along with your statement.
rogue109 Google is your friend.
@@rogue109 www.amazon.ca/Durable-Fuel-Heater-Truck-Diesel/dp/B07YWT98KD/ref=asc_df_B07YWT98KD/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=335210432629&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4610480312513396277&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001147&hvtargid=pla-857669843417&psc=1
Yes and if you use it outside you could pop it in a larger cheap tool chest and route the ex and air intake insulate and pop in some vents.
Very informative video. Been anxious to start overlanding and after watching a few of your videos, I think you are the right person to help me get my feet wet. Subscribed! Please keep being honest and unbiased when you're reviewing products, I know that'll be hard to do when companies start giving you free products to review as you get more popular.
Thanks! Enjoy the trails, it's a great experience!
For others that might be interested, you can buy this heater (probably for the same DIY build costs) that comes in a 1 package unit. built into its own portable case.
Yeah I have a couple of them linked on my website. They didn’t work for me, but could be a much easier solution for others.
Great little project!
We're running one for our off road trailer. We have ours mounted in a slightly larger rolling tool box. It's big enough to hold the heater and a smaller fuel tank that I bought.
We pump the hot air into our annex (mostly for our puppy), but of course, hot air goes up, so the tent stays nice and warm. I used some flexible metal tubing to extend the output.
If you look right here:
ruclips.net/video/DKy00tYNdh8/видео.html
You can see it sitting on the side (left side as you look at the video) of the trailer with the tubing running to the annex...
It doesn't look so cold in that video, but that blue water container on the trailer had a 2 inch layer of ice on the insides..... we ended up putting it in the annex in front of the heater for a while to melt the ice.
It would be nice to have a return line, but the logistics gets complicated.
We've used ours down to 12 degrees F, and with it mostly idling, it kept the tent at 65 or so without issue. If I crank it up, it would exceed 85F or higher without issue.
The little 5 liter tank will run about 10 hours or so.
We used it for a few days there, and had ZERO moisture in the tent.
I have been thanking of this also, im a mechanic for a living and we have the same heaters on lots of our buses that i work on. what has made me kinda hesitate is the ones we have get really hot with the exhaust and unit its self. they also have a really strong odor from the exhaust. the ones we have are Webasto Diesel heaters, there around 1000 dollars with really nice remotes and thermostats. I could use one of them but was also thanking about the cheap china ones also. let us know how it works over night ! if the plastic box holds up. i may just do this also.
The exhaust gets pretty hot, and melted a cheap plastic tote I had it sitting on. It hasn't caused a problem with the tool box, but it also doesn't directly contact the tool box. The case of the heater itself is a similar plastic to the tool box I used, so it should be ok in there! There's definitely a smell when you first start it up, but I couldn't smell it after a while - I still ordered an extension for the exhaust to get it away.
Nice work. You made it look easy. 👍 But thank goodness these now come as an All-In-One unit. I'm seen one with a fuel tank on top (seems to be the more popular choice), or one at the side. These new units make it even easier. Just plug n play.
Really good idea.
Maybe use a aluminium box. And I would put the exhaust further away. I think whit so short pipe you will smell the gases. And I see that you mounted the exhaust on same side as the "fresh air" input side. Wouldn't it suck diesel fumes and exhaust in? In a aluminium cargo box you probably can insulate around the diesel pump, then it wouldn't be so disturbing and noisy.
Don't misunderstand me. Lovely idea!
I’m already planning the next build, and an aluminum box is on the list (see the website for details. The exhaust comes out the opposite side from the air in. The smell isn’t bad, but I have an extension anyway, just to get the exhaust away like you suggested!
Hi I've not got time to read the 220 or more comments.
But my comments would be. You should use rigid line between pump and heater, why not use copper brake pipe.
Second is utilize the little screw/accessories containers on the top as cable access and storage for the control panel and 12v accessory outlet. That way you can keep the box closed all the time.
Third
With a permanent 12v feed to the box install a 12v socket for other accessories like lights USB outs.
4 install fuel tank in a tool box. Or in a gerry can holder that way you can remove easily to utilise as a fuel can and or to simplify filling the fuel tank
5 with any fuel can or container that is designed to carry fuel it is normally sealed so a breather required
Great suggestions! I have details of the update on my website - I’m planning an all-in-one with the fuel tank self contained.
@@RevereOverland hi
I'm in the process of installing a kit in a van. I have a large flight case I might use as a basis.
Check with your vehicle manufacturer there should be on the C pillar or below behind the mudflap be a ventilation grill or access. Thus you should be able to direct heated air into the vehicle as well through that grating. Saves cutting a hole in the roof or leaving a window open.
Also when installing a permanent feed into a Jerry can the feed should go in from the top then a capillary tube soldered or brazed in that terminates in one corner of the can and about 5mm from the bottom. Preferably with a 30 or 45 degree angle. Thus there is a void at the bottom of the tank for any debris and rubbish or water to collect. Tilt the can by using a couple of washers in the opposite corners to ensure the majority of usable fuel is scavenged
That fuel line is intended to be hard nylon 2mm bore. The fuel pump should NOT be mounted horizontally and is not strong enough to pump the volume of fuel in the flexible hose [for long]. Check John McK 47's extensive diesel heater testing - in particular video #11.
Pretty slick setup, but Ive been using the Buddy heater for several years with very little issues. They key to lower the condensation is pletty of air flow. I use a couple USB fans to circulate the air. I do like the idea of a thermostat, but I dont like the idea of carrying a tank of diesel around. Good to have another option though. Thanks for sharing!
Yeah I've used my Buddy heater with no problems other than the condensation. The diesel tank takes up a lot less space than the equivalent propane for the Buddy heater, although diesel is a lot nastier to have in the vehicle!
@@RevereOverland Im already using a 11lb propane for cooking and hot water heater so it just makes sense to stick with propane, but I really like the thermostat feature.. Definitely worth thinking about!
@@krover01 yeah if you're already taking a large propane cylinder, you're set. I was using the 1lb tanks, and would go through around three a night when running the buddy all night.
This is amazing !!
how come I’ve never heard of this before ??
I do most of my camping in the southeast USA -Mississippi, Alabama, Louisiana etc.
cheers and thank you for the great informative video!! 👍🏼
At least camping on the roof protects you from ground bears but if you where here you would have a problem with the drop bears! Furious little buggers.
Put Vegemite in your diesel. That way the smell of the exhaust scares them off.
Bears clime really fast on anything the smells and sound of the pump be more help
@@RevereOverland where can I get this and how do I use it?
Yeah the savage Koalas are as big as a dog, you don't one of them dropping on you.
My approach would use the engine compartment and or underneath the car. A sheet metal box is easy to have fabricated for the under carriage. An insulated dryer hose up to the tent and bob’s your uncle. If need be, the receiver hitch is also a good mount point for items like this.
That's what I love about this unit - there are so many options that work for everyone!
That Stanley case seems great for the price. I think those pelican knock off cases at Harbor Freight might be a more permanent solution. I should like this for my furnace-less T@g camper.
Would have to make a similar fuel cell too... install a small jerry can with a barbed shut off and away you go
That is the same bunk heater that is used in semi trucks,there placed under the bed in the sleeper. The ones used in semi trucks are called Webasto/ Espar.
Great idea mounting the diesel heater inside a toolbox to make it portable!
seet pinapple socks i think i might use one of these but I feel like the big buddy space heater will put off more heat... I lose heat fast in my current situation so its important I can replenish it quickly.
I like your idea! I just mounted one of these nearly identical units in my little teardrop camper, and here is what I discovered: I manually primed the fuel line a little too much when I first started learning how it works, and it did drip 'overflow' fuel from the combustion inlet port so I mounted mine in a way that would allow for draining away from the vehicle 'just in case'. Also, I opted for the rotary dial type thermostat because it looked way less complicated to operate. I agree the unit is efficient both in terms of operation and value. I can run mine for about 24 hours non stop at low setting on the supplied fuel tank. Great producd in my opinion. Thanks!
I have wondered how the dial thermostat does. I’m also not sure about the automatic priming from the digital thermostat - does it stop when the fuel reaches, or does it go for a preset amount of time?
The efficiency is great. For 24 hours of heat, you’d go through so much propane!
Can you share what you did on your camper?
@@brianabston4280 Basically I built toolbox about five feet wide and three feet high with a top that slopes up 45 degrees to allow for some decreased wind resistance. After that, it was pretty simple to screw things into place. The biggest problem I've had is keeping the fuel line primed but thats not a technical issue with the heater, it's more about how I want to travel with the fuel tank.
I like what you did. The only thing I did differently was to store the power input in one of the top compartment of the toolbox and I out the controller in the other. This allowed me to keep everything cleaner inside the box. I also mounted a breaker to the box instead of the fuse.
I like that idea. For my V2 I am putting a plug in the side.
Dewalt Tough cases are AMAZING use those ones. great setup.
Pretty nice heater. I bet it doesnt use much diesel either. Diesel fuel has more btu of energy than gasoline in the same volume. I have a trailer that it would be nice to install all of that underneath it. I have heard of diesel heaters but thought they would have no thermostat, be gravity fed for fuel, and the worst... belch exhaust gas into the heated space like a torpedo heater. Nice bit of kit as you Brits say. Thanks.
I installed one in my 5th wheel and love it! Way cheeper than propane! I like how you did yours👍
Thank you for posting this video. It was really informative and you put everything in perspective. I currently dont have a roof top tent but it's something I'm looking into purchasing within the next 3 years. Thank you again. I really learned alot. I was blown away from fires caused by these propane heater, but most of all how dangerous the fumes they generate.
ruclips.net/video/XVsfXuq1KFA/видео.html
Put the air intake from the tent
Will dry all your cloths etc .
Put a leisure battery in the car and run a split charge relay on it so it charges when u drive .
The one thing they should try to improve on these heaters is the fuel pump. The ticking tends to bother a lot of people unless it is mounted far enough away from the interior that you can't hear it. If someone made a quieter pump I'm sure that a lot of people would gladly pay for an upgrade. We're building a 4-season cargo trailer conversion this summer & this is what we're planning to use for the heating system. Buddy Heaters make too much condensation & a propane furnace is a lot more expensive & not nearly as compact. Your idea for plumbing it into a tent was pretty ingenious.
If you suspend the pump using zip ties it is apparently a LOT quieter.
I have this Diesel heater installed in my Motorhome, It’s awesome. But what an amazing idea you came up with, Do use something like this and actually make it portable.
Absolutely the better way to go. I had the propane unit and it was not good for my situation.
Maybe spin box so you can access from inside the tent if raining. Also some make shift cage w cover so you can work on it in the elements without damaging anything and extra roof for snow load. Great video thanks, I’m going to try to make something this summer.
I will definitely be putting it the other way around so the exhaust is away from the tent opening! If I had thought about it, I’d drill the hole for the wiring on the side facing the tent.
Great idea and such a simple solution to keeping my tent warm I didn't like the gas heater because of the fumes and great DIY idea's and instructions very neat
These heaters where orginally designed for semi truck sleeper cabs, so trucks could save fuel. Instead of idling a semi truck's diesel engine all night long burning roughly 1 to 1.5 gal an hour for 10 plus hours, We use these heaters which will use 1gal of fuel in 10hrs. I have an Espar 2.2KW airtronic D2 heater, which is digitally controlled, has outside temperature sensor, inside temperature sensor, cardon monoxide gas detector, and smoke detector. I preset my cab temperature and off to bed i go. My professional unit costs about 1200 usd. And is permanently mounted under my bunk.
The Amazon unit you got there is a decent basic diesel heater. Just make sure you have enough ventilation around the unit, to it doesn't over heat and burn up the circuit board.
Also these units need to be maintained and cleaned periodically so they work properly, the combustion chamber does carbon up with soot from the diesel full, theres little injection holes that get gunked up over time..
I've been using my bunk heater for 6yrs now every spring I pull it a part and clean the combustion chamber, and I replace the fuel filter. It is recommended to periodically turn it on and run it for 30 mins during the off season to keep it working good.
Awesome video, just a little hint theres a fully self contained diesel heater for roughly 170 bucks on Amazon. Just put fuel in its tank, hook up a 12v power supply and fire it up.
Ha! I have literally been doing tons of research on these and even have a couple in my Amazon shopping cart. Super excited about this idea.
Do it! They're really warm.
Revere Overland Yep! I was comparing it to the buddy heater and for the money, I feel like this makes a ton of sense. Long term, it’s much more fuel efficient too so there will be savings down the road on fuel (plus the convenience of being able to refill at a gas station). Great video as always!
@@AllThingsOverlanding right! With the propane heater I'd easily go through at least $5 a night. With diesel, $5 will get you several nights.
@@RevereOverland Just wondering how much fuel does it consume per night?? Thinking about converting my camping trailer to a Diesel heater to help conserve the propane for cooking, fridge/freezer and water heater. I ate through 2.5-30lb propane tanks in 1 week while elk hunting in Wyoming in teen degree weather. The diesel heater would also be a nice primary way to heat the trailer while still retaining the propane for backup. Great video and cool way to make the whole system portable!!!
eddiemoto250 my 5kw unit consumes about 1 quart/liter per night. You can adjust the fuel flow which increases or decreases fuel consumption, of course.
I bought an “all-in-one” unit for my teardrop camper. The advantage is that it’s all assembled and ready to rock. The biggest disadvantage is that the all-in-one has no fuel filter and there isn’t much room to install a filter. I ended up with a funnel with filter that I dump the fuel through when refilling. In hindsight, I’d buy the decomposed kit like this and just build it in a box of some sort.
Hi, At first sorry for my bad english. I like your Videos very much. It is better to install the pump with the output 15-30 degrees up, because to have better lubrication and to avoid the risk of dry running at great heights. If you camp in the mountains where the air is thinner.
Greetings from Berlin,Germany. Steppe
not a bad idea for a portable option. if leaving it mounted you may want to consider metal tool box. temp change, UV light, impacts from birds or branches may not hold up long.
grommet for were the wires exit the box and change over to an Anderson plug instead of ciggy plug better connection and can handle more current
its a nogo on the plastic box . diesel exhaust is really hot
The plastic box is fine, as long as the exhaust doesn't contact it. There is no heat buildup in the box. Besides, the heater itself is in a plastic casing!
Yes , the Exaust IS in contact with the plastic box .
@@marksommers6764 I appreciate that the bracket and screw that are holding the exhaust can conduct heat, but assure you that it is not enough to be a problem.
@@RevereOverland out of intrest u got a link to that power bank you have in this video?
@@cgzsqueek1984 yup - the link is the Jackery in the description.
You could put some dynamat inside of your toolbox and see if that reduces the noise even further.
How would that handle the heat?
@@RevereOverland I don't have real life experience with this kind of use but the specs are the following : Material performance is optimized for temperature ranges between 14°F and 140°F (- 10°C to +60°C). Material can withstand temperature extremes between -65°F and +300°F (-54°C to +149°C) and is highly resistant to aging
Also look into www.amazon.com/Noico-deadening-Automotive-Insulation-dampening/dp/B01KZ5X7KO
They also make dynamat for under the vehicle hood/engine compartment which should be fine.
That's a great little project! Excited to see how it holds up!
Thanks. I'm looking forward to putting it to use some more!