Fixing Cub Cadet Charging System
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- We fix the charging system on our Cub Cadet RZT50 zero turn mower. The engine is a Kawasaki FR691V. Check out what we found and how easy it was to fix.
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I have been having the same problem on my LTX1050KW. Did the trouble shooting per the video and found I also had a grounding problem, cable had melted into the plastic like several others have mentioned and was a little loose. Cleaned cable and bolt, tightened everything up and good to go! Thanks for the great step by step video!
Texdan excellent job working to find the problem. Glad it it now working. Thanks for the super nice comment! ~Mr. C.
Thanks for the video. My Cub cadet wasn’t charging and pinpointed it to a bad ground for the regulator, just like what you had. I done this in under 5 minutes.
brokenmike76 that is great news. Maybe a design flaw from Kawasaki? Thank you so much for letting us know you got the mower up and running with little trouble. That means so much to us. Keep up the good work! ~Mr. C.
Hi, nice video! You did a great job explaining everything so clearly. Thanks for making this video. My cub cadet is not charging. After watching this video, I’m going to go see if I can fix it.
@Bigbamboo5150 you are very welcome. I am glad it was helpful. Did you get it going? Thanks for watching and commenting. Happy wrenching! ~Mr. C.
This was absolutely impressive! Great demeanor, knowledgeable, informative!!!
@josephcastro7609 this comment is really appreciated. It means so much to me when I hear from viewers like you. I keep a calm demeanor because I know the problem is right in front of me. Not out of sight on another floor of a building if that makes sense. Thank YOU for watching and commenting! ~Mr. C.
Excellent video. Liked how you clearly explained what you were doing and why. Kudos to the camera person for showing the wiring etc 👍👍👍
@geewilli2080 comments like this is what keeps me going. I try really hard to make the video information clear, complete, and easy to follow. Thank you so much for taking the time to let me know! The camera person says thank you! ~Mr. C.
Thanks for the tip. Mine turned out to be a broken wire. So a quick solder job fixed me up. You diagnosis helped me find the problem. I have the same symptoms.
Dave Masinick that is great news! Glad it was a simple fix. Thanks for letting us know. ~Mr. C.
Thanks man for making this video, it really helped. It motivates me to make videos, on a different subject, to help others as well.
This was a perfect step by step troubleshooting and resolution.
Curtis Houze so glad you liked it! Thanks for watching! 👍
Good solid diagnostic approach. Now I know what to do with my RZT. By the way, try to avoid hitting rocks when grass cutting-the Cub Cadet is not designed to be smashing intonrocks
A.G. M. good luck figuring it out. Thanks for watching and commenting! ~Mr. C.
It turns out my RZT, which is identical to the unit being repaired, has the same problem... a loose bolt on the regulator(rectifier). The last time I mowed, the blades stopped because the battery, which isn’t charging, couldn’t keep the electric clutch engaged. To my eternal shame and discredit, I did the stupid thing last week and bought a new battery....... ! ( hey, it worked for a while).
I have had my cub cadet mower three weeks and have had to charge it every time, thanks for the info at least I know what to check now:)
you should be able to unhook the battery while its running, and it should remain running. If not, its not charging.
Great presentation. Very clear and concise. Good Job,
@waynefought4835 thank you for such a a kind comment. I really appreciate it. ~Mr. C.
Thank you- my dad's early-2000's M48 Tank battery kept running down, and the system wouldn't charge more than a half volt even with it revved up. After watching your video, I checked the voltage regulator and it turns out that somewhere along the way, the voltage input connector had been pulled loose. I plugged back on and now we get 14 volts with the motor revved up..
@extantia that is so cool. I love hearing when someone gets a piece of equipment going and I played a small part in it. Thank you so much for sharing. It means a lot to me. Happy wrenching! ~Mr. C.
Nice Video. I'm seeing the Grounding is often the problem and the other problem is HEAT! especially on the cheaper parts on newer models.. Move the V-Regulator away from the Hot engine to the frame under the seat etc.
@David arkinian yes grounding on any charging system seems to be the culprit many of the times. I think it gets overlooked as a problem. It is my understanding the regulator rectifier is placed in the blower shroud to allow air to move across the cooling fins. When the battery is full the excess charge is dissipated as heat into the cooling fins. Have you tried mounting the regulator rectifier under the seat? If you have I would love the hear the results. Might be a good idea for future projects. Thanks for watching and commenting! ~Mr. C.
Oh my gosh. After having battery charging issues and watching this I went straight to my HC Rider and looked at the voltage regulator grounding ring. It was MELTED into the plastic backing. I bought Kawasaki for the quality - funny how adding a ten cent washer behind the ring would have prevented this problem. You are the best!
P S I am so glad you found your problem and fixed it. I have not had a problem since my repair. Thank you for the kind comment also. ~Mr. C.
Thanks so much, my cub cadet LTX 1045 is doing the same thing only difference is mine is a Kohler engine and its not charging when I rev the engine. I love RUclips and people like you to help us out!!! - Rick
Happy to help. Did you figure out the problem on the Kohler? ~Mr. C
Nature's Cadence Farm
yes, with the multimeter I was able to pick up charging from the DC+ terminal on voltage regulator to the battery but when all hooked up nothing so it was between the regulator and the battery. wiggled some wires, found the 20 amp fuse pulled it, checked out but the fuse holder was packed with dead grass. Cleaned it out started, now showing that the battery is changing with test leads only on battery! :) Again thanks for the areas to check and help! :)
Great! Glad it worked out.
Thank you for your help Mr C .I will check every thing and let you know i did . THANKS RIPCORD
Many thanks, Very helpful!!
@jbloomjr you are very welcome. Thanks for watching and commenting. ~Mr. C.
Awesome diagnosis and repair!!
Twobarpsi so glad you found the content useful. This problem is the why the previous owner I bought it from was getting rid of it cheap. He kept having to charge the battery when he was done mowing and he couldn't finish his yard on one "charge". Thanks for watching and commenting! ~Mr. C.
Thanks...mary
@Mrs Furgeson you are very welcome. ~Mr. C.
Thanks for the video. I found a loose ground wire and now the battery is being charged!
Ron Winston glad you found the information useful and got the problem fixed. Thanks for letting us know! ~Mr. C.
fun stuff. get ya a nice meter and get real familiar with it. A digital AND analog meter (two meters) is what I personally prefer. 13.5 is a smidge low still to me, but that 13.8 at the end sure looked nice.
@floydd warrel that is sound advice. Thanks for sharing! ~Mr. C.
I've had the same issue on my 2010 RZT50 for years! Had the same problem with the blades not engaging as the battery would be drained towards the last part of my lawn. Watched your video and found the exact same problem, loose bolt and wire. Cleaned both bolt and wire and tightened them up. FIXED! No more recharging the battery in between mows. Thanks for the help!
Glenn Wilson So glad you were able to track down the problem. It's a good feeling when I know I have helped someone. Thanks for the nice comment. ~Mr. C.
Great walk through video! Thanks 🙏
BgJak073 so glad you liked it and found it useful. You are very welcome! ~Mr. C.
My mower has same issues, I'll try that! Thanks alot!
@Scott Hassler I hope that takes care of it. Let me know how it goes. Thanks for watching! ~Mr. C.
Amazing zero turn
@uhuugyvenk9441 I did like it. Small and fast. Thanks for watching and commenting! ~Mr. C.
Nice bit of troubleshooting and re-engineering there Mr C!
Simon B thank you! I enjoy fixing things. Hopefully nothing else breaks, but if it does...I'll be making more videos like this! ~Mr. C.
Great job brother 👏
@LewisMowersandBoats thank you so much. I really appreciate it. Thanks for watching! ~Mr. C.
very clear explination saved me a lot of time thank you
Thanks for this video, my electrical problems included the electric pto not working. I had to install another ground to the voltage regulator, after that everything works normal. Thanks again.
john worst glad things worked out for you and that I could help! ~Mr. C.
Thank you for all the good info.
R. Curran you are very welcome. Glad you liked it. If there is anything else you need help with please feel free to ask. ~Mr. C.
Great Video ! It might be helpful to point out what color wire of the Rectifier you probe,when checking if stator is delivering Voltage. Hard to see with the tight space
@JohnDoe-to2kv that is a great suggestion. I will work on that. Thank you for being kind with your constructive criticism. Too often comments carry a negative tone here and other online platforms. ~Mr. C.
Great job great detailed explanations. Thanks
dude thank you so much i wasted my money on a new regulator and it didnt fix it i was pissed did all the checks still came back to that stupid regulator never thought to check the ground hell it was burned beyond recon i used a amp ground wire and grounded it to the frame get 13.5 even with both lights burning now hell i couldnt get 12 2 with them off before hell im a auto technician but lawnmowers are foreign to me my cousins husband gave me this thing ltx1050kw its basically the same motor as what you have on yours mine is just 23 hp instead of 24 but same set up i do really appreciate it i fixed mine in the dark lol, love my flood light i bought
Krys Moon no problem, glad I could help. ~Mr. C
Thanks for this video!
Brad B you are very welcome. Glad to help. ~Mr. C.
that was my problem too on a cub cadet ...made a wire from the screw on voltage regulator to a ground on the frame and it charges good now
Tim Spur glad you were able to find a simple fix too. Hopefully Cub Cadet is watching and changes their design flaw. Thanks for watching! 🤗
yeah they should ground those better
Mr C I found my problem with my zero turn.It turned out to be my fuse holder . it got wet plus it was old .Thanks again for the help .trying to learn all i can.Thanks Ripcord
Ripcord congrats man! Great job troubleshooting! So glad I could help! 👊
Outstanding!!!
@supertrucker1356 thank you! So glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching! ~Mr. C.
THANK YOU...not the same model...but it WORKED
Debbie Bolding GREAT! Glad I could help. ~Mr. C.
I appreciate your teaching but I wish that I could get a closer view of the parts you are testing and where the meter lines are connected to. Again, great video and get on teaching. Thanks
David Ruiz thank you for the kind words. I understand your frustration. If I still had it I would shoot another video with better angles but I sold it. If there is anything I can help with please feel free to ask. ~Mr. C.
Great demo. Especially the check of the regular rectifier during operation. Some people have some sort of special electronic checker. Most people have a digital meter. Not too bad on the camera work either.
nomad1187 as an electrician I find a multimeter to be the easiest tool for me to use. I will tell Squeaker (my daughter... the sometimes camera man) you like the camera work. Thanks for watching! ~Mr. C.
Nice fix bro!
your drive idler in bangin around like mine. thats the racket mine makes. good video thanks
Dennis Lee even with it banging around... it still seems to work fine. Thanks for watching! ~Mr. C.
I have a RTZ50 as well, which I bought second hand, which had been having the exact same problem. Mine would require charging to start, and as I was cutting the grass, the battery voltage was decaying. My electric pto has a safety feature that when you shift into reverse, the pto stops. So the battery voltage continued to decay, to the point that if I had to shift into reverse, the pto would not restart on shifting into forward, because the voltage had dropped below the minimum pick up voltage of the pto, (12vDC). I couldn't figure it out...until I watched your tutorial on fixing Cub Cadet Charging system...I found a similar problem with the ground wire off the voltage regulator must have gotten quite hot, as it had melted the other end of the ground wire into the plastic casting through which it was attached to the chassis ground, and in doing so, wire ring connector recessed enough to not be making good contact. Re-measured voltage output to battery, now 14.4 volts....better than before, and fingers crossed, but thank you so much for walking through the troubleshooting steps on this. Great Job!!!!!
Scott Bolger you are very welcome. Keep up the good work! ~Mr. C
Great video, learned a lot about voltage regulators thanks.
fubar2014 glad you liked the video! ~Mr. C.
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Good job
Robert Yearian thanks for watching! ~Mr. C.
Good job. Keep making videos
Walter B thanks for subbing! Mr. C. has more of these videos coming. Stay tuned to his "Maintenance Corner" playlist! 😋
Just plain excellent. Sure helped me. Thanks
Appreciate the video Arians 54" cute help alot mine had the same problem.
Brad Sellers thanks for watching. Were you able to repair yours? 😊
This really helped me- thank you!
Kimberley O'Connell wonderful! So glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching! 😉
@@NaturesCadenceFarm 12.86 at battery while running full throttle??
I was going to do a video on how to change the POT switch since my local dealer were ass-holes about it. Key is taking off the steering wheel to get the process started.
floydd warrel that would be great to see a video on changing the switch. Please let us know if you do, we will check it out. Thanks for watching and letting us know. ~Mr. C.
@@NaturesCadenceFarm I'm actuially still waiting for the switch from the parts place. I have since gotten one mail order on my own and finished the job. For others though, steering wheel bolt comes off and there are two screws under there holding the housing plastic down and 4 screws around the cockpit housing , if you will. The rest is gently unlatching the interlocking plastic pieces and the switch panel back then gets exposed. I could do a video as time permits later. Really, electrical issues are the mowers downside.
Floydd warrel glad to hear you got it going fairly easy. Thanks for letting everyone know the process. Very helpful! ~Mr. C.
@@NaturesCadenceFarm well, of course we know the blade wont engage without the proper power. Low battery can cause it, but then one needs to figure why teh battery was low to begin with, hence this video you have here.
I found the connector from the stator was disconnected..I taped the heck out of it, and now the engine starts immediately, but the kill switch on the key quit working, I took the connector off the key switch, cleaned up with contact cleaner and compressed air, and still I have to manually kill the engine..??
I'll just have to make a kill switch I guess...
Maybe the relay? I do have the Schematic for my 1019...
@mike lunsford that is great news about the stator connector. I believe the key switch just grounds the ignition coil out to ground. Sounds like you are on the right track to stop your engine. ~Mr. C.
Good info good diag skills.
Retrogamer1010 thank you very much. ~Mr. C.
Added new voltage regulator fuses keeps blowing, any ideas what else it could be? Battery holding 12.6 and everything is is in tact.
@MIXMCX the only thing I can think of is look for chaffing on wires. They can be very sneaky. Look closely. Let me know what you find. I would love to hear what happened. Thanks for watching. ~Mr. C.
Please make a vid on how to use the volt meter because I'm a complete moron with mine
@supertrucker1356 that is an excellent idea! I will see what I can do. I am working on a Wright Stander ZK at the moment. When I get done with that I will put together a multimeter video. Thanks for the idea. ~Mr. C.
Ok, so I guess my new regulator rectifier is bad too since I'm getting like 3 volts with the engine on and at full throttle. I also took a reading at the battery at full throttle and it's slightly lower than turned off 12.46 instead of 12.49. The stator volts are at 41 volts so it's good. Going to order me another 2 regulators from different companies and try again. I have no idea what it is if they also "appear" bad.
Patrick Dezenzio that is an interesting problem. It sounds like you still have a ground issue. Try jumping the metal case of the regulator to the engine frame with any kind of wire. I hope this helps. Let me know how it goes. ~ Mr. C.
I think the problem is the cat in the motor😂
@jameswright5867 lol, could be. Cats can be persnickety. Thanks for watching! Happy wrenching. ~Mr. C.
Having a similar problem with my kholar motor... and i dont see where there is a ground wire... am i correct on figuring to put a ground from the rectifer to ground ?
Tony Gatto I would say yes if it is mounted into plastic like this one. It will not hurt to go ahead and ground the case of the rectifier though. Doing so might lower the chance of problems in the future. Good luck. ~Mr. C.
what is the regulator is over charging (output of 18 volts"?)
@mopar man either the regulator rectifier has failed or the battery has a shorted cell or something making the regulator think it needs to have a higher output. Could be bad connections on the charging circuit wires or battery cables causing a high resistance. Do you need to jump start the mower when you start it? See the link below for a new regulator rectifier. ~Mr. C.
FR691V regulator rectifier: amzn.to/3oWiIhh
i have a cub cadet zt1 it cranks like it about to start then stops. i replaced spark plugs, fuel filter, oil change. hoping something was just clogged but not the problem i spray starter fluid in the carb and about 2/4 times i can get it to turn over and it will run for hours after that as soon as i turn it off same problem. i figured either the solenoid or the alternator. any suggestions?
Kalim Huncholee13 sounds like you have been busy trying to get the mower going for a while. That stinks. Given the situation you described I would lean towards the choke not closing enough or at all. The reason I say this is because you can get her to hit with ether but never without. The one I have needs a touch of choke every time I start it hot or cold. I hope this helps. If not, let me know. Either the viewers or I will do our best to get you back cutting that grass. Good luck. ~Mr. C.
The zero turn mower sounds like it needs a tune up with new plugs, new filters and new oil change.
carl cappy that's a great idea for another video! We did do one about changing the oil, check out our playlist for Mr. C's Maintenance Corner! Stay tuned! 🙋
Hello, I need help" I bought Cub Cadet IntelliPower XT1 LT42, last Oct, now giving me trouble and stop running after 10 to 12 min. and won't start till 2 to 3 days in rest, battery show 12.6v and if start then shows 13.45, and when it stops and try to start it shows 9.5v. Is my battery bad or Alternator or something else? please help me out. Thanks.
Raja kumar that is interesting. Sounds like it is not charging while the mower is running. As you stated it could be a battery with a shorted cell. Batteries can be tested at many auto parts stores. The charging system voltage checks should be similar.. Also check grounds and connections. Hope this helps. ~Mr. C.
@@NaturesCadenceFarm Thanks for the tip, unfortunately, I replace the battery and try, even with a battery charger brick, but no luck. I just hand over to the Cub Cadet repair center, lets see what they say?
Raja kumar I would love to hear what they say. ~Mr. C.
Good Morning I have a zero turn with a kohler twin cam ohv .I have a new batt in it .had it running a min then it quiet . tried to start it nothing happened . checked all saftey system to make sure every thing was off .checked fuse . it was burnt . changed fuse .tried to start it again nothing .acts like a dead batt.HELP.
Ripcord that sounds like a very strange and unfortunate set of circumstances. The blown fuse indicates a high current situation in the starter solenoid / safety circuit. I would check for a chaffed or cracked wire. As far as the not turning over issue the starter solenoid is not getting voltage. The circuit that feeds it comes from that fuse that is blown. If I had to guess I would say the fuse is blown again. Things to check: shorted solenoid, clutch switch, pto switch, seat switch, neutral position switches for handles. I hope this helps. Good Luck! ~Mr. C
My rzt just turns over a few times then the battery dies. So frustrating
Mason Hines I understand just how frustrating that is. It would be very difficult to preform these tests with a dead battery and the engine not running. Does your battery hold a charge from a battery charger? Thanks for watching! ~Mr. C.
@@NaturesCadenceFarm it doesn't seem like it, but then again I'm not too familiar with troubleshooting this thing lol, it even turns over slow with my jump box on it. Thanks for the reply boss!
Mason Hines The easiest thing to check is the electrical connections for the battery, solenoid, and starter. Don't forget about the grounds like the connection to the chassis or engine and the starter mount. It could be the valve lash is out of tolerance causing the compression release to not function. The compression release could have failed too. I found this video (thank you 577 Jersey Customs Adventures) that should help explain the process. If you have any other questions please feel free to ask. ~Mr. C.
ruclips.net/video/GXXIolrz2Bs/видео.html
@@NaturesCadenceFarm that's awesome! Thank you so much man I appreciate you
POS Bought the 54" rtzl brand new 2018 for $2800. it has 68hrs. Has trouble starting. Have to pour a little gas to the carburetor. Blades are too thin and wear out fast.
Control arms are out of alignment even after adjusting them. I just spent 2 hours trying to fix this issue to no avail. The springs attached to the arms are incredibly hard to put back on. First you must attach a heavy gauge spring with a really small opening to a hook which is almost impossible to reach due to the small opening to install. I got it hooked ONE time using a coat hanger to find that it is 2" below the hole for the bolt. Again the gauge of the spring is too hard to stretch. there is no way to leverage. I gave up and now have no mower.
The spark plugs and oil filter are hard to reach as well.
Very poor engineering and design.
Go with a different brand and save yourself a lot of time, money, and stress!!!
Default Name I agree, I am not impressed with the engineering on mine either but it makes for good youtube videos because everyone has the same problems I have :) . Thanks for sharing your experience. ~Mr. C.
Awesome diagnosis and repair!!
Twobarpsi so glad you found the content useful. This problem is the why the previous owner I bought it from was getting rid of it cheap. He kept having to charge the battery when he was done mowing and he couldn't finish his yard on one "charge". Thanks for watching and commenting! ~Mr. C.
Awesome diagnosis and repair!!
Twobarpsi so glad you found the content useful. This problem is the why the previous owner I bought it from was getting rid of it cheap. He kept having to charge the battery when he was done mowing and he couldn't finish his yard on one "charge". Thanks for watching and commenting! ~Mr. C.