To give you an idea of power output of these 4 strokes. I put a .52 4 stroke in a Wot 4. It barely got off the ground. Changed it out for an ASP 40 2 stroke, and the Wot 4 climbed vertically.
This is a very helpful video because you showed your set-up and explained what you were doing. And, joy of joys, you did it concisely! So many videos are just guys starting and running engines for half an hour but not passing on any techniques or info. If we’re to keep this hobby alive, we must share info. Well done. (I’ve just bought my first 4-stroke - a Saito 45s - and can’t wait to run it up, then mount it in a ship and go fly…)
Great engine video and well explained. Most of my fourstrokes are Saito, but I do have an OS 95v in my Great Planes Escapade 61 that runs great. I also have a brand new OS 52 Surpass fourstroke that was made in the 1990s that I bought from a model flyer who had retired. I'm still looking for the right plane for that engine, but excited at getting it run up for the first time and hearing that great sound.
What a superb instructional video- 'all the things one was afraid to ask! I'm planning to buy my first-ever 4 stroke engine ,for a big Keilkraft Falcon -(rather than electric). I felt a really large prop would keep the engine ticking over better... are there any downsides to a hefty prop, used for its flywheel effect?
@Andrew Adhere to the manufacturers recommendations for the propeller size. To big of prop (or too small) will end with a destroyed engine. Most RC fuel ⛽️ engine are close to bullet proof - they can take a beating and keep going strong - so long as you stick to running them how they recommend 👍🏽 😀
When i prime the engine i put my finger over the air intake on the carb and turn the prop by hand untill i see the fuel go Into the carb through the fuel line then turn the prop about 3 more turns.I never prime the engine using the electric starter
I recently bought my first glow model. An old hangar 9 Funtana with a never started saito 4 stroke on it. Its ready to go i just have no idea what im doing. The last thing i need is fuel and im not sure what to look for🤷♂️
@maybejoshh I've always done Cool Power glow fuel for airplanes. I've stuck with a 10-15% nitro mix and have never gone wrong with my Saito .62. Which is about 15 years old 🙃
Great Video, a few questions for you: How does the crank case and lower-end internals get lubricated on a 4-stroke? I've flown 2 strokes for years and un always wanted to venture into 4 strokes. Is the main benefit the sound, and ability to spin a larger prop which equals more thrust, but a lower top speed?
Nailed it. Yes, you'll get much more torque (i.e., power) to spin bigger and higher pitched props. The sound is just a bonus. As for lubrication, the engines are built to slef-lube, if you will. Make sure you're using the right glow fuel for smaller bore engines. There are formulas specific for 4-stroke if you are using glow.
The 4 strokes allow for some blow-by of the unburned oli past the piston to go into the crankcase itself and the valve gear, heat and vapourisation of some of the oil of course helps. There is usually a nipple fixed in the crankcase where excess oil drians off after it has done its job. Initially it was thought that less oil would be required but experience has shown that 20% oil works well and covers any lean runs. Ideally a synthetic with some castor oil works well. Have used this for 25 years.
Good video and nice coverage of what you were doing at each point. One question, why did you richen up the high speed needle when it was idling lean, rather than richening the low-speed needle?
👋🏽 @mawzthefinn 1) I always run a brand new engine SUPER rich and, 2) I don't adjust the low-speed settings when breaking-in any new engine. I trust the manufacturers default settings and leave them. After a few tanks of fuel have been run through a new engine I **may** play with the low-speed needle if I'm having trouble on idle, however, I've rarely needed to mess with the manufacturers settings. They've seemed to work well for me "as is". Perhaps I've been lucky 😁
Awesome video! I haven't tried a four-stroke yet, maybe I will with my next plane. Do you like them better than the two-strokes? Also, what all did you use to make your test stand? Looking for something simple...
@grant I'm a fan of 4-stoke because of their sound, torque, and fuel efficiency. However, you'll get more RPMs from a 2-stroke which equates to speed. I scratch built a test stand once but I usually install the engines and break them in on the plane. That's not for everyone but it's worked for me.
Ciao Sky IILAMA,! This a really nice video! You know i have at home that OS engine and also the .120! I made by myself My first 4 strokes RC engine with drawings, lathe and milling machine, the problem that i have Is that i the fuel does not arrive to the carburator! The fuel tank is completely above the engine, i think It can be a problem of compression, of the piston or to the valves, ( i think), can you suggest me a method to check if there is enough compression? at least that's enough to suck up the fuel! Thank you in Advance for your answer, a big ciao from Italy! Alberto
👋 From America! You made your own engine?! That's insane and amazing! From what I know (and have done) most all fuel tanks should be in line with the engine. Unless you have a fuel pump (which is very rare for RC) placing the tank above or below will create issues as the back pressure from the muffler isn't strong enough to get adequate fuel to the carburetor. ☝️ Someone out there add some fidelity to my claim please - or tell me I'm wrong. As for the compression, all I know is that it there should be plenty of "suction" or resistance when you attempt to rotate the engines propeller with your bare hand (Note: **DO NOT** do this with the ignition on and/or the glow plug connected). It's not the most scientific approach but it's proven to work well for me and has let me know when it's time to replace an engine casing or a piston sleeve. Also, there should be an optimal RPM that your engine runs and if it can't reach that or maintain it - odds are your compression has reduced. Hope this LONG response helps. Cheers! -aw
@@theskyllama Thank you so much for your answer! I think, from what you have said, that It Is a problem of compression: It Is not so difficult rotate the shaft with the propeller by hand!! I have to improve this!! Maybe in my future RUclips video,. Thanks a lot! Alberto
Close the needle valve completely. Then open it 2 full turns. This should make the engine run lean enough to get it stared and idle but not so rich to prevent it from starting at all. After that, I find it's usually 1/2 turns either way to fine tune the mix.
It gets lubricated by the fuel. I use a synthetic 2-stroke glow fuel (no castor). All the additives in the fuel provide all the lubrication it needs 👍🏽
Brother 61 cc engine is not enough to run a room air conditioner...but if you can find a vapour absorption type then your engineering desire can find a way out...
Most quality brand synthetic nitro fuel mixes are specifically designed for CNC built parts, which is how most fuel powered engines are build after the late 1990's. I stick with synthetic 10-15% nitro on all my glow engines.
@@theskyllama if you let the engine sit for 4 months you well be surprise how much the nitro has eaten the inside of the engine nitro is still nitro the synthetic is referring to is the oil they are using that's why nitro fuel is not cheap is because of the nitro
To give you an idea of power output of these 4 strokes. I put a .52 4 stroke in a Wot 4. It barely got off the ground. Changed it out for an ASP 40 2 stroke, and the Wot 4 climbed vertically.
4 stroke with glow plug ...no injection nozzle for a novice engineer like me this is a valuable lesson...thanks sir ...hats off
This is a very helpful video because you showed your set-up and explained what you were doing. And, joy of joys, you did it concisely!
So many videos are just guys starting and running engines for half an hour but not passing on any techniques or info.
If we’re to keep this hobby alive, we must share info. Well done.
(I’ve just bought my first 4-stroke - a Saito 45s - and can’t wait to run it up, then mount it in a ship and go fly…)
Glad it was helpful! And thank you for the kind words. Now get out there and enjoy that big sky !
Great video, i really love this 4stroke engine sound.
Same here! I'm also a huge fan of radial engines... one day. Gatta save up for that 🤑🤑
Another great video mate,Thanks for all that safety rules one must observe !
Great engine video and well explained. Most of my fourstrokes are Saito, but I do have an OS 95v in my Great Planes Escapade 61 that runs great. I also have a brand new OS 52 Surpass fourstroke that was made in the 1990s that I bought from a model flyer who had retired. I'm still looking for the right plane for that engine, but excited at getting it run up for the first time and hearing that great sound.
I've got a 15 yr old Saito .62 and an O.S. .91 that run fantastic to this day.
@@theskyllama Saito 62 is my favourite engine.
What a superb instructional video- 'all the things one was afraid to ask! I'm planning to buy my first-ever 4 stroke engine ,for a big Keilkraft Falcon -(rather than electric). I felt a really large prop would keep the engine ticking over better... are there any downsides to a hefty prop, used for its flywheel effect?
@Andrew
Adhere to the manufacturers recommendations for the propeller size. To big of prop (or too small) will end with a destroyed engine. Most RC fuel ⛽️ engine are close to bullet proof - they can take a beating and keep going strong - so long as you stick to running them how they recommend 👍🏽 😀
Did you account for the tank being on its side when you set that tank up? The vent bubble should be on the top.
I did. I had adjusted the copper tubing for the exhaust line to be pointed up 👆🏽 and out of the fuel level. Good eye 👀😁
When i prime the engine i put my finger over the air intake on the carb and turn the prop by hand untill i see the fuel go Into the carb through the fuel line then turn the prop about 3 more turns.I never prime the engine using the electric starter
That's a solid way to do it👍🏾 I've done that as well and then used the starter to turn over the engine a few times b4 connecting the glow starter.
@@theskyllama you just need to watch out for hydro lock
I put my finger in exhaust and turn the prop.
@@theskyllama its easier to start wo spinner if you change starters cone rubber so there is that small hole.
Man I love you videos! Im interested in getting into gas and you videos are the best!
Thanks! 🙂 I truly appreciate that. And getting into gas has been a great experience for me.
I recently bought my first glow model. An old hangar 9 Funtana with a never started saito 4 stroke on it. Its ready to go i just have no idea what im doing. The last thing i need is fuel and im not sure what to look for🤷♂️
@maybejoshh
I've always done Cool Power glow fuel for airplanes. I've stuck with a 10-15% nitro mix and have never gone wrong with my Saito .62. Which is about 15 years old 🙃
Great Video, a few questions for you: How does the crank case and lower-end internals get lubricated on a 4-stroke? I've flown 2 strokes for years and un always wanted to venture into 4 strokes. Is the main benefit the sound, and ability to spin a larger prop which equals more thrust, but a lower top speed?
Nailed it. Yes, you'll get much more torque (i.e., power) to spin bigger and higher pitched props. The sound is just a bonus. As for lubrication, the engines are built to slef-lube, if you will. Make sure you're using the right glow fuel for smaller bore engines. There are formulas specific for 4-stroke if you are using glow.
The 4 strokes allow for some blow-by of the unburned oli past the piston to go into the crankcase itself and the valve gear, heat and vapourisation of some of the oil of course helps. There is usually a nipple fixed in the crankcase where excess oil drians off after it has done its job.
Initially it was thought that less oil would be required but experience has shown that 20% oil works well and covers any lean runs. Ideally a synthetic with some castor oil works well. Have used this for 25 years.
So you think you get more power from a four stroke ? Moron
Good video and nice coverage of what you were doing at each point.
One question, why did you richen up the high speed needle when it was idling lean, rather than richening the low-speed needle?
👋🏽 @mawzthefinn 1) I always run a brand new engine SUPER rich and, 2) I don't adjust the low-speed settings when breaking-in any new engine. I trust the manufacturers default settings and leave them. After a few tanks of fuel have been run through a new engine I **may** play with the low-speed needle if I'm having trouble on idle, however, I've rarely needed to mess with the manufacturers settings. They've seemed to work well for me "as is". Perhaps I've been lucky 😁
Awesome video! I haven't tried a four-stroke yet, maybe I will with my next plane. Do you like them better than the two-strokes? Also, what all did you use to make your test stand? Looking for something simple...
@grant
I'm a fan of 4-stoke because of their sound, torque, and fuel efficiency. However, you'll get more RPMs from a 2-stroke which equates to speed. I scratch built a test stand once but I usually install the engines and break them in on the plane. That's not for everyone but it's worked for me.
Ciao Sky IILAMA,! This a really nice video! You know i have at home that OS engine and also the .120! I made by myself My first 4 strokes RC engine with drawings, lathe and milling machine, the problem that i have Is that i the fuel does not arrive to the carburator! The fuel tank is completely above the engine, i think It can be a problem of compression, of the piston or to the valves, ( i think), can you suggest me a method to check if there is enough compression? at least that's enough to suck up the fuel! Thank you in Advance for your answer, a big ciao from Italy! Alberto
👋 From America! You made your own engine?! That's insane and amazing! From what I know (and have done) most all fuel tanks should be in line with the engine. Unless you have a fuel pump (which is very rare for RC) placing the tank above or below will create issues as the back pressure from the muffler isn't strong enough to get adequate fuel to the carburetor.
☝️ Someone out there add some fidelity to my claim please - or tell me I'm wrong.
As for the compression, all I know is that it there should be plenty of "suction" or resistance when you attempt to rotate the engines propeller with your bare hand (Note: **DO NOT** do this with the ignition on and/or the glow plug connected). It's not the most scientific approach but it's proven to work well for me and has let me know when it's time to replace an engine casing or a piston sleeve. Also, there should be an optimal RPM that your engine runs and if it can't reach that or maintain it - odds are your compression has reduced.
Hope this LONG response helps. Cheers! -aw
@@theskyllama Thank you so much for your answer! I think, from what you have said, that It Is a problem of compression: It Is not so difficult rotate the shaft with the propeller by hand!! I have to improve this!! Maybe in my future RUclips video,. Thanks a lot! Alberto
"I believe its a 30"..... You didn't see the "30" stamped on the crankcase?
In the moment of recording the video, I hadn't looked at the engine in detail. I just mounted the engine and hit record... "Well do it live!!" 😂
When you adjust the high speed needle, what’s the base line? Do you start with the valve all the way closed or open?
Close the needle valve completely. Then open it 2 full turns. This should make the engine run lean enough to get it stared and idle but not so rich to prevent it from starting at all. After that, I find it's usually 1/2 turns either way to fine tune the mix.
Does it have oil in the crankcase or lubrication via the fuel?
It gets lubricated by the fuel. I use a synthetic 2-stroke glow fuel (no castor). All the additives in the fuel provide all the lubrication it needs 👍🏽
Can I run car ac compressor through 61cc rc plane engine
I want to make small room air conditioner
Ali, I have no idea if that will work. If it does, let us know 👍🏽
Brother 61 cc engine is not enough to run a room air conditioner...but if you can find a vapour absorption type then your engineering desire can find a way out...
Can you get a nose cone for it SL?
Sure can. You just need to figure out the shaft size. There are tons of spinners/nose cones out there to choose from
No it’s against the law
Can you fit a clutch to this engine
Maybe a mini clutch? If you have the CNC equipment to do that, let me know! That'd be awesome
No it’s against the law
Talk about over the top ,just mount it hook up push rod to throttĺe lever connect fuel lines glow plug flip it
I *was* going to do that, but I wanted to have a setup where I could remotely operate the engine during testing. It wasn't hard to set up.
Very good. ी वांटेड
i dont like nitro because it eats the engine so i use castor oil and methanol as the fuel that combo doesnt eat the engine parts
Most quality brand synthetic nitro fuel mixes are specifically designed for CNC built parts, which is how most fuel powered engines are build after the late 1990's. I stick with synthetic 10-15% nitro on all my glow engines.
@@theskyllama if you let the engine sit for 4 months you well be surprise how much the nitro has eaten the inside of the engine nitro is still nitro the synthetic is referring to is the oil they are using that's why nitro fuel is not cheap is because of the nitro
@@crunchied8 that's why if I let my engines sit idle for longer than 3 months I put an after-run lubricant in the crankcase to neutralize it/store it.
Nitro does not eat the engine, the alcohol if left in the engine attracts water which form rust, stop bithing and just fly
😡😡😡😡you just dont know nothing
I only claim to know a little 😆