OS Engine 60 FP Glow Engine Rebuild and Test Run
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- Опубликовано: 24 фев 2024
- The O.S. Engine FP glow engine series was produced in the 1980's and early 1990's as a line of rc glow engines that were more economical to produce and thus a lower cost to consumers. The engines were also designed to be a little more user friendly in terms of starting, running and maintaining. I purchased this OS 60 FP used but it needed a little refurbishing. I took the engine completely apart and cleaned all the parts. Then I rebuilt it and mounted it on a test stand. Using Morgan glow fuel with 15% nitromethane, a Master Airscrew 12-6 propeller, and an OS No. 8 Glow Plug, the engine started right up with just a little effort. I tracked the RPM using a Hangar 9 tachometer. The engine ran great, very powerful and will be a great engine for RC Plane.
In this video I also discuss briefly the history of the OS MAX FP engines and I also briefly discuss the difference between and air bleed carburetor and a carburetor with low speed needle. All of the OS MAX FP engines came with air bleed carburetors. Hopefully this video will be helpful for those who have older RC plane engines.
I have been building, flying, crashing, modifying, and repairing radio control planes (RC Planes) for many years and enjoy sharing what I do with the radio control plane community, so I started RC Plane Tech channel for fun. I am not an expert, there are many different techniques when building radio control planes. A good way to learn about flying and building rc planes is to see what others are doing, that's what I do and that's why I like to share what I do.
Thanks for watching my channel. Hopefully you will find my videos a little interesting and perhaps fun to watch.
/ @jamesrcplanetech 
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I would say that the FP series are best engines produced by OS. I love them.
I agree, they get a bad rap for not being the highest end engine, but they are OS quality and even a lower end OS is as good as the upper end of some other brands.
My first engine was a FP-40. Ran great, and easy to adjust. I also had several of the Thunder Tiger plain bushing clones of the FP and they also were good engines.
Put it in Sig AstroHog or a Bridi Kaos. You will love it!
I too have been collecting. I have about 100 nitro engines. I do the same thing. Make them run then let them sit on the self. Oiled this time for proper long storage.... lol.
Nice!
Quick tip and saving gaskets on teardowns. Loosen the bolts / screws and do not take them out all of the way. Instead, loosen the bolts one rotation and oil the crack of the seal, using WD40 or the Marvel air oil you are using in the video. Allow the oil to soak in, allowing the gasket a chance to detach from the metal they are sticking onto.
Great video and history of the FP OS engines.
Thanks for the tip!
I used to have probably a hundred of the rcm magazines and my wife threw them out without me knowing about it lol! Needless to say I wasn't very happy about it! I've got a few extra sets of plans for the Midwest sweet stick if you ever want one cause I went to a print shop and had them to print out some from the original!
Bummer about the mags. That’s a shame. I look on eBay, sometimes you can come across ones that you are interested in. Thanks gorgeous the plan offer, appreciate it, but I have plans for the big stik 60, and a midwest Aerosport 40. At the rate zim building, not sure Ill get to those. But thanks again for the offer!
good background on FP models. Nice mounting of crashed .25
Thanks!
😊😊😊... My 1st RC plane engine, other than a l'il Cox .049 from K-Mart, was a l'il O. S. .10 FP on a German Cessna 182 from a German Hobby shop...😊😊
You are fairly close when you identify the reason why engines "get stuck" like that. The traditional oil used in glo fuels is caster oil, which is also used in the paint industry to make clear varnishes. That crosslinks (polymerises) by itself, with additives, to quickly form a solid film, but will also do that by itself over time. Modern glo fuels tend to use synthetic oils nowadays and that tends to not happen any more.
The fix in my days, when puting the engine aside for a while, was to remove the glo plug, put some automotive automatic power steering into the carb and spin the engine over to coat the insides with something that won't polymerise. Of course that means flushing the engine out later on.
Great! Thanks for the insight and tips, helps us all understand more.
Get an old cooking crock pot from a thrift store (now used for parts cleaning only), cook the dirty/caked/gummed up glow engine in the crock, filled with transmission fluid overnight .. it will come out spotless clean, and all freed up
Nice tip!
I've bought a few nib older engines and the carbs were stuck so I just heated them up with a heat gun and it fixed it! Good video!
Thanks, very helpful knowledge.
Thanks!
Generally speaking, you don’t have to balance the prop (they come new pretty closely balanced) .. line up the heavier side of the prop with piston top dead center for best results.
Single cylinder engines vibrate quite a bit by their design.
Ya, I noticed that they usually don’t need much to balance.
Man, an awesome video!!!I I started using OS engines in the 80s they are the workhorse for RC stuff far as I'm concerned or were.. if I'm not mistaken I believe my first one was a 35 Max and I don't think they were in production long. I had some 20 or 25 and had some 60s and 40s still have some of those
Right on! Ya I feel the same, OS are awesome engines and you can get them used and new still on ebay and find really nice ones, high quality.
And also, thanks!
Good video and love the test stand. I have two old OS motors that are frozen probably the same reason as yours. However watching all the stuff it took to get the motor going on the stand reminds me why it switched to electric.
Funny! Ya, glow engines are messy and finicky. There have been times at the field when my hands are covered with fuel and oil trying to get an engine running and I see the electrics zipping by. Hmmm. I do think that I will get a jet one day and that will be electric. A nice A-10…
It's a good thing it's not a K&B you are working on. Great engines, tough work horses but the exhaust port extends out over the mounting lug. Really hard to get at the screws on the exhaust side.
Interesting, I have never had a K&B.
OS still produces 2 stroke airplane engines as well as 4 stroke and car engines
Yes, thankfully they are still making really nice engines.
James I really enjoyed this series. As a former MX rider I have torn down and rebuild a few motors so this was really enjoying to watch.
Two questions:
Does the piston have rings? I did not see any and don’t remember you doing anything to compress them before putting the piston in the cylinder but then how would it
have compression?
What do you prefer IC or electric?
Note this is Flynntf, I had to establish a new account with a new name (long story).
Hi, thanks for the comment. You are right, no rings on this, many glow engines don’t have them, they just run in an inner sleeve in the head. They do make glow engines with rings that are more expensive. But the basic engines typically don’t have them.
I see the benefits electric, but prefer glow or gas engines. I like the way they run and like to tinker with them. They are messy and can be a pain at times, but I like them.
i think the fp series has the sleve bearing and the fsr max series ball bearing r is for piston ring and there was a few with fuelpump, i still got an 28 heli engine fsr max 46 and a 108 bx1
I believe so as well, the FP had the sleeve, one reason why it was economical
Merci pour cette vidéo instructive 😊
Thanks!
Bel video istruttivo e interessante, certo hai trovato i ricambi adatti e questo serve per ottenere un ottimo risultato, saluti
Thanks Marco. Hope you are well, and enjoying flying and building!
I think FP may mean Flight Performance Engines.
A stik would be great for that engine. The outerzone has multiple stik plans for download.
Yes, a great resource for plans.
Loctite/thread-lock the muffler nut (ask me why).
👍🏻
You forgot the prop washer i think.
The spinner nut has a wide base the size of a washer and flat up on the prop, I think thats ok because usually the washer is a little convex on the nut side and then there would beca space between the outer washer and prop nut I think