Was feeding my 13 month old while watching this earlier and he was enthralled! Kept trying to lean as far as he could in his chair attached to the table so he could see more. Keep up the good work and know how much what you do matters to the community, to anyone who watches and even to toddlers!
Thanks captain 3 years later and I learned a couple things. New to foam blaster and modding. Your videos as well as your time and efforts are much appreciated. Thank you.
Thanks for the tips, Captain. Finally getting into modding and figured you would have some good, easy to follow guides on the subject with how much tinkering you do.
You should do a guide to switching a reverse plunger tube for a not useless one. I know this would be different from blaster to blaster, but I think a general guide would be doable.
Captain Xavier one tool I don't recall seeing you use, which I personally find to be EXTREMELY useful in general, is a long flex extension for the dremel. My dremel came with a 24" extension and it makes getting into nooks, crannies, and just generally working at odd angles significantly easier. If your dremel supports a foot pedal accessory, a flex extension makes a dremel even better- and IMO it's already a contender for the gold-medal-winner of hobby tools.
There is just such a Dremel hanging from the rafters above my work bench now. It is my new favorite tool. :D I did mention it in a Q&A video...but no one actually watches those...
Captain Xavier I do watch those (and so does my wife sometimes lol, she loves the little weird bits you do at the start of some of them). Apparently I just missed the mention. I probably would have seen it if I had time to watch the mod party stream, too... but I don't right now. *sad face*
It is a recent acquisition and it makes me sooo happy! It is much lower speed but higher torque than my old one and that is perfect for Nerf work. I have been having fun with the Intros. I will run out of helmets eventually...
Thank you so much, Captain. I love modifying nerf blasters, and your videos are the videos that really help me understand what I’m doing. Little late to the party on this one, but you deserve praise nonetheless. Have a great day.
Since leaving a comment helps: Could you do a knockout brass breech? Walcom did it, but I need to see it done through your video methods to FIRMLY GRASP IT.
I repair brass instruments for a living and a jeweler's saw is great for cutting tubes. Just a small burr on the inside and that's it. Very easy to clean up.
For flaring the cut end of the brass after using a pipe cutter A trick I saw on Coatduck's channel is to use a 3/8 to 1/4 drive adapter from a socket set as sort of a mandrel, but you could use a socket as well if you had one where the narrow end would fit inside the brass and the wide end was wider than the OD of the brass. Just set the socket/adapter on a solid surface, slip the brass over it and tap it from above with your tool of choice until the desired flare is achieved. I use a rubber mallet since brass is fairly soft. Planishing hammers are cool and all, but uncommon and expensive. Needle nose pliers can work but may result in the flared end being out of round, which may not matter for a front loader, but will wreck you if you are trying to sleeve sections together to make a seal.
Maybe for the next episode could you cover how to make grips better? Like when a grip is to small and you use a maverick or nitefinder grip. Then maybe a follow up could be stock extension?
There is a type of handsaw that's used in more artful metalworking. It takes a lot of finesse and patience to use because if you put too much pressure you'll break the blade but it is a very fine saw and can definitely make those cuts in one to two passes and would require very little filing afterwards. I forget the name of the saw though
I like the beveled edge on mine when only making a dart length section. Slightly filed down so its smooth, then an interior polish from 220 through 5,000 grit, makes a nice pressure fitting on the dart and makes a satisfying pop
Thank you captain just the first two videos have helped my so much I can already tell this is going to be a great seris Keep up the amazing work have a wonderful day
One would think clamping things in a vice or making a jig for boring out the barrels to keep them perfectly straight would avoid the whole bore through issue but I've never tried to drill nerf. Just getting back into it since I found your videos. Back when I was a kid it always seemed like the Nerf toys would break in less than a week or two in some fashion. Looks like they've made a lot of progress in the last decade or so. Your videos are great and I'm finding this stuff very entertaining and educational.
Captain Xavier, i keep trying to find a planishing hammer on amazon.... i know the dart diameter is half inch....is half inch enough to flair the brass? Or is the head slightly bigger as only the first half inch or so of the tube seems to be in contact with the hammer.... either way... any other options besides amazon to check.... thank you.
Depends on how you wire it. You can go either way. You just need to make sure you get the wires right. Be sure to test it with a low voltage to make sure you get it right.
If you really want to utilize the most power from your blaster you should have a bolt with a barrel to create a full seal beech, but I guess this is good enough for beginners
Indeed. Naturally a full sealed breach has more power but is also much more difficult and has it's own downsides. This was meant as the beginner's guide. I will do a seal breach eventually.
Much helpful. Very appreciated. Thanks Capi’tan Xay I like the professional approach you take to modding versus how most just use whatever is on hand and hope for the best. Don’t you live in Virginia or Georgia? I know you’re somewhere near Drac. Wish yall were in Memphis TN where I’m at. I could use some help with all of the nerf guns and what I wish to do with them. I haven’t really found much of a community here locally. Although I haven’t searched very much but from the little I have it seems to be somewhat small. I could be and hope to be wrong though! If anyone is around this area and would like to help a modder on the up and up please let me know and we’ll link up or colab. Oh and Captain Xavier if you know of anyone around the area or outskirts of this area (tri-state Mississippi Arkansas Tennessee area) that could possibly help my son and I please holler at me. We are both heavy into the hobby but have only been modding for a couple of months now. Much love nerf fam -JJC aka MaddModz OUUUTTT lulz 😆
For cutting the brass closer to the plastic, a scroll saw with a jig might be good? it might not be any better than a dremel, but atleast its square cuts rather than circle
Captain X I want to do this to a monorail blaster because walcom said in his video that a brass breech would be great for the blasted and improve the consistency, but a saw a few comments in this video saying that this is not a good idea what do think?
Surely you would need to flare outwards the entrance point on the sleeper breech so when you feed a dart in it is still easier to feed / maintain a relativley high ROF without the dart catching?
I'm working on modding my nerf hammershot and also 3d printing some nerf bullets with a pointed tip and I'm gonna do the same with a longshot when I get one.
When brassing a cylinder i found that half lengthed darts or adventure force darts, even elite darts go in easier.....the off brand darts do not.... do i need to flair the brass more? Or is it just because the darts are crap.... they are some what a softer foam then the other stuff mentioned.
It would be great to know the maximum "safe" ammount of power that you could mount in a given blaster to add as much power as possible without harming internals. I mean, I totally get the fact that when you mod you exchange the blaster life for power, but in case of some of us that have a hard time buying or finding the blasters, middle ground between power and blaster surbavility would be plain amazing. Do you think this is something you can do, or maybe include it as a section in some of those great spring replacement videos? Thank you.
Only if you fail to flair the brass, load to quickly, and use old darts. These are the reasons I generally do not do brass breaches. I find the trade offs to not be worth the effort and results.
+Captain Xavier, bro I like your work but you should probably add an annotation disclaimer that people DONT do this to their breeches. I know you mention you haven't done a brass breech before but this is a terrible idea. Flairing doesn't make a difference, it's the friction that rejects the dart. You dont run into issues like reload time, dart tolerance, or any other tradeoffs if you do it right. There's a reason why no one does breeches like this, and instead do angel breeches or sleepers. you should always chamber in a larger calibre than the dart. The only part that really needs to be tightbore is the barrel.
"Nothing a man says before the word 'but' really matters" ~Benjen Stark I agree. This is definitely NOT as good as an Angel Breech or a Full Sealed Breach but I have seen (and been hit by) enough blasters with this exact setup to know that they do work and do increase power. But they are finicky as all get out. I will eventually cover proper sealed breaches and explain why they are a much better option.
I'm not sure if you read the comments, I know this is kind of a older video. But I was considering trying to Brass breech a Hammershot and some other revolver type nerf guns. I assume the process would be the same as you described here for front loaders, but was wondering if there's anything else I should keep in mind.
Yes, be careful. The walls of the cylinders may be too thin. Drill slowly can carefully. Also remember that if the seal between the plunder tube and the cylinder is weaker than the seal of the dart in the barrel, the blaster will not fire. You will also need to increase the spring considerably to be able to clear the brass barrel.
Late response but will add my $0.02 - I recently modified a Maverick, Strongarm, Disruptor, and a bunch of smart-AR front-loaders with brass however I did NOT brass the ENTIRE barrel and did not drill out the entire barrel either, instead I cut "retaining-rings" that I inserted from the front down to where it tapers originally to hold the dart against the AR. I removed the ARs from the revolvers and plugged all side air-release holes on the smart-AR systems. The rings hold the darts more securely in the barrel but not so securely as to prevent a more powerful discharge. I don't have a chronograph to measure the performance boost but it is noticeable by feel and range and especially by never having darts simply fart out of the barrel particularly on the 4th dart from the smart-AR blasters 👍 Not spring-enhancement required! The purpose was to enhance the fun for my kids without increasing difficulty of prime (a major factor for the
Ive already ipened it up and found a white box with black buttons above the trigger, the whole thing is useless, just locks. I unscrewed the lid to the box and took out all the spring loaded doodads, and the monorail works just fine(you will understand when you open it up)
So, does anyone know the performance gain of a sealed breech over this style of brass breech? I have an EAT I'm making ridiculous for no real reason. A/R is out (I know that's controversial these days), 7 kg Hard kit is in, and I am currently painting it. But what it needs is a killer breech. It's hard to find a definitive walkthrough on it though as there has been so much variation over the years. Best I can tell, I need three widths of pipe, but it's not entirely clear to me why.
A full sealed breach is significantly more powerful (and more or less requires AR removal) however, it comes at the price of a much lower rate of fire. But then so does the sleeper breach really. In both cases you have to prime a bit more slowly or the darts will crumple and jam. Honestly I don't think Either are worth they price in an EAT. They increase the risk of jam and effectively negate the blasters ability to slam fire. Brass breaches are better for things like Retaliators and Longshots than don't have slamfire anyway. In my opinion...others may disagree.
What size of brass tubing is best for mega darts? I want to design and 3d print mega sledgefire shells but I don't want to use a 3d printed barrel for them.
I would take a 17/32 and bore out the breech and then use 9/16 to bore half way down, cut off the tab and insert the prepared brass and have a barrel attachment with a 9/16 barrel that seals against the 17/32 brass
The tab on the chamber runs along the top of the dart to help prevent folding as the dart is scooped into the chamber from the magazine. The Nexus Pro and others do instead push the dart out of the magazine and seal it into a barrel similar to what you describe, but the space inside is better designed to avoid worrying about dart-folding although it does still occur with that tab missing, even with short darts.
@@Chamdar17 a bit late. Also I didn't know it at the time but Worker was going to be making barrels in basically the same way. The stepped design allows easier feeding because the darts first going into 9/16. This was also a time I did have a dremel and had to make do with making a brass breech with only pipe cutters. The finger left on the stock breech kept the darts in check and never had a feeding issue with that system.
I have yet to find brass that fits Mega. I'm sure it is out there somewhere. You would need 3/4 i/d. You can make barrel inserts that convert Mega to Elite. Worker makes them...that is probably easiest actually.
Captain Xavier Alrighty then, thank you anyways, I'll have to check out Worker, and thanks also for the crazy quick response. The main reason I asked is that I have twin cycloneshocks that I was thinking about modding but I wasn't sure if i wanted to attempt to brass them or just micro-fit them. I have a couple other ideas for some of my other blasters but they would be moreso experimental and probably somewhat more extensive mods
Captain Xavier ...or 60 for my twins, It looks like I'll be better off with simple internal upgrades and slight external modifications. Thanks for the advice Xavier
almost impossible, you need a seal around the dart, and a way for the magazine or belt to feed, all in all its gonna be a ton of work just to have something like a recon
Kzitold if you enjoy this you will SUPER enjoy the K26 series. You learn the history of certain blasters, how to tear them apart, little tips and tricks, what springs they can take and how to "button" them back up as Cap says
I have a question do you grease or sand inside of the brass barrel(besides flaring the end) to make it smoother for the darts to enter and exit? for me seems like the darts fit tight in the k&s brass 17/32 barrel. is that normal or should it be smoothed out? need advice.. pls help
@@CaptainXavier yea, I’ll probably need stronger parts, but i dont think they make parts for a spy gear wrist blaster, but also the spring was from a bow strike
So can I brass my hammershot cylinder using this same method just doing it 5 times? It is my first gun mod and so ive invested hours into painting alone. I dont want to mess it up now. Also just out of curiosity, do you know what size of tube it would take to do the mega darts?
@@CaptainXavier I just picked up a dual strike on eBay for 7 bucks and was morbidly curious. Do you know the tubing size? By the way, thanks for all the great tutorials and responses. Do you ever live stream and take donation? Also curious if you had an active discord chat.
If you mean the Snapfire 8 I would not try it. Revolvers do not brass well. The chamber walls are usually thin and they rarely have enough power to clear a brass barrel.
No I wish but I have a modified new snapfire the one with the pull back prime and wanted to squeeze some more power out of it but the barrel looks very thin and wanted to make sure I didn't compromise the structure of the barrel. Thanks for any advise you can offer
Each 1/32 size increment fits the previous size. So 17/32 fits and seals inside 9/16 (or 18/32) which in turn fits and seals inside 19/32. Nerf darts are 1/2 (or 16/32) which is why they fit and seal in 17/32 in barrels. So to build a sealed breach you use a 17/32 barrel nested inside a 9/16 barrel.
So, I brassed my NiteFinder's barrel and added an Ionfire's spring in addition to the stock spring and it hits pretty hard, however, whenever I load the blaster, if I push the dart in and out it makes a squishing noise, is this something that I should be concerned about or is it simply a byproduct of a modification I have or the result of not having done a mod alongside my current mods? It only happens on elite darts, waffle tips don't have this problem.
+Tyler Affolder depends on many factors. There is a max length for each tank because they have different capacities. If you go shoter than the max tou lose power. If you go over it will not clear the barrel at all. Abd before you ask, I have no idea what the max is for any tank. I have never tried.
It is possible but not with 17/32" and not for the same purpose, the only reason to put brass in a flywheel blaster is a kind of accuracy boost that I'm not entirely sure how it works, but usually it's 9/16" for that purpose as it's more of a guide not a tight fit
Creed King18 VladtheNerfNeko (Drac's friend Vlad from all of the Endwar videos) recently did a video about brassing an Artifact Red cage to get similar output to the Dr Snikkas cage.
Again, depends on the build. Style of breach, weight of spring, length of barrel, desired fps, etc. There are no easy answers. You have to do some research and some experimentation.
I know this may sound stupid but can I brass barrel a buzz bee double shot, I’m looking to just make a super modified one because I like double barreled shotguns and This is the only one I can find
1/4 what? It can't be inches. First of all they do not make PVC that small and second that would be half the size of a Nerf Dart, there is no way it would fit. Now I am curious...
Captain Xavier well mabye it’s you haven’t seen it. It’s a nice tight fit around the dart and works quite nice. I use it to singe my talon and for a better fit on darts for my k26ed firestrike
Captain Xavier I’ve used it so many times that I have cut off the part where it states the size. The reason I asked it because 17/32 brass has a 23 day ship time and I was trying to cut it down with a differnt size brass
@@air_ im thinking of using it as an emergency last resort in hvz, like a jolt on crack. Something I can use to get out of being cornered by several zombies with one triggerpull. I finished it 2 days ago, and it works surprisingly well. to be honest im mostly just doing it for shits and giggles, and its great for that
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Was feeding my 13 month old while watching this earlier and he was enthralled! Kept trying to lean as far as he could in his chair attached to the table so he could see more. Keep up the good work and know how much what you do matters to the community, to anyone who watches and even to toddlers!
Nerfinatorrr99 that makes me happy.
@@CaptainXavier he is gonna become a nerfer when he grows up
@@mrsmrsr6704 nerf child
@@hoperdoodle6293 perfect throwable weapon
Using a hacksaw to cut any blaster component will instantly turn any blaster into a Nerf RoughCut...
Can confirm, was cutting up a rampage and next thing you know there was a flash and i had a roughcut
Lol
I was cutting the t bar off my Jolt to put a keyring on, BAM RoughCut
Thanks captain 3 years later and I learned a couple things. New to foam blaster and modding. Your videos as well as your time and efforts are much appreciated. Thank you.
I learned more engineering in 16 minutes here then in my 1 whole year old school
brutal...
Sledge Striker hey I saw you on drac's vid
captain xavier is so much better than school.
Thanks for the tips, Captain. Finally getting into modding and figured you would have some good, easy to follow guides on the subject with how much tinkering you do.
You should do a guide to switching a reverse plunger tube for a not useless one. I know this would be different from blaster to blaster, but I think a general guide would be doable.
Captain Xavier one tool I don't recall seeing you use, which I personally find to be EXTREMELY useful in general, is a long flex extension for the dremel. My dremel came with a 24" extension and it makes getting into nooks, crannies, and just generally working at odd angles significantly easier. If your dremel supports a foot pedal accessory, a flex extension makes a dremel even better- and IMO it's already a contender for the gold-medal-winner of hobby tools.
There is just such a Dremel hanging from the rafters above my work bench now. It is my new favorite tool. :D I did mention it in a Q&A video...but no one actually watches those...
Captain Xavier I do watch those (and so does my wife sometimes lol, she loves the little weird bits you do at the start of some of them). Apparently I just missed the mention. I probably would have seen it if I had time to watch the mod party stream, too... but I don't right now. *sad face*
It is a recent acquisition and it makes me sooo happy! It is much lower speed but higher torque than my old one and that is perfect for Nerf work.
I have been having fun with the Intros. I will run out of helmets eventually...
Captain Xavier I just read that to my wife, and her reply was, "No. Just no. I will send him more helmets myself if I have to." I love my wife. :D
Mailing address is in the Description, tell her she can mail me all the helmets she wants! :D
Thank you so much, Captain. I love modifying nerf blasters, and your videos are the videos that really help me understand what I’m doing. Little late to the party on this one, but you deserve praise nonetheless. Have a great day.
Since leaving a comment helps: Could you do a knockout brass breech? Walcom did it, but I need to see it done through your video methods to FIRMLY GRASP IT.
I repair brass instruments for a living and a jeweler's saw is great for cutting tubes. Just a small burr on the inside and that's it. Very easy to clean up.
Cool! Thanks! I have been meaning to get one for a while now.
Love the hobbytown shoutout that’s where I get all my rc stuff
For flaring the cut end of the brass after using a pipe cutter A trick I saw on Coatduck's channel is to use a 3/8 to 1/4 drive adapter from a socket set as sort of a mandrel, but you could use a socket as well if you had one where the narrow end would fit inside the brass and the wide end was wider than the OD of the brass. Just set the socket/adapter on a solid surface, slip the brass over it and tap it from above with your tool of choice until the desired flare is achieved. I use a rubber mallet since brass is fairly soft. Planishing hammers are cool and all, but uncommon and expensive. Needle nose pliers can work but may result in the flared end being out of round, which may not matter for a front loader, but will wreck you if you are trying to sleeve sections together to make a seal.
Maybe for the next episode could you cover how to make grips better? Like when a grip is to small and you use a maverick or nitefinder grip. Then maybe a follow up could be stock extension?
You must be a big hit with the ladies
Thank you! These instructions are incredibly clear (as is the video quality). And I love picturing being instructed by Number 24!
There is a type of handsaw that's used in more artful metalworking. It takes a lot of finesse and patience to use because if you put too much pressure you'll break the blade but it is a very fine saw and can definitely make those cuts in one to two passes and would require very little filing afterwards. I forget the name of the saw though
Most likely jewelers saw.
There is two things to look forward at a Monday tag back and Monday mod tips
Thank you for doing these videos. You make it really easy to learn the craft for the beginners out there.
Great work as always. Thanks for the tips.
That is so much simpler than others I have seen. this makes me more comfortable doing them.
Do an episode on epoxy putty pleeeaaase
Brandon Cho I wouldn’t want to fight me EITHER !
I like the beveled edge on mine when only making a dart length section. Slightly filed down so its smooth, then an interior polish from 220 through 5,000 grit, makes a nice pressure fitting on the dart and makes a satisfying pop
Thank you captain just the first two videos have helped my so much I can already tell this is going to be a great seris
Keep up the amazing work have a wonderful day
One would think clamping things in a vice or making a jig for boring out the barrels to keep them perfectly straight would avoid the whole bore through issue but I've never tried to drill nerf. Just getting back into it since I found your videos.
Back when I was a kid it always seemed like the Nerf toys would break in less than a week or two in some fashion. Looks like they've made a lot of progress in the last decade or so. Your videos are great and I'm finding this stuff very entertaining and educational.
The risk with a clamp is deforming the pipe. A jig would be a much better solution.
Hey captain love your channel it would be cool if you could do integration epoxy putty and all hope you keep making awesome content
can you do an episode on air blasters? specifically back pressure tanks and how to fill the over pressure release valve with something?
How'd you make you, I filled the buzzbee ultimate blast system with hot glue worked fine, now I'm putting a air tech tank in a tri strike
@@JohnJames. I tried using hot glue with my titan for that and it blew out the hot glue during a war the next week...
@@froopty1854 I'm assuming that system is alot more complex, this one was just a small hole, If fails epoxy it is
Captain Xavier, i keep trying to find a planishing hammer on amazon.... i know the dart diameter is half inch....is half inch enough to flair the brass? Or is the head slightly bigger as only the first half inch or so of the tube seems to be in contact with the hammer.... either way... any other options besides amazon to check.... thank you.
Stampede question: Which way does the motor/engines´ red dot (forgive me for my spelling) has to vace? Up or down?
Depends on how you wire it. You can go either way. You just need to make sure you get the wires right. Be sure to test it with a low voltage to make sure you get it right.
Ok. Thanks Chaylo :D
Fantastic and thorough breakdown…thanks very much. Will a brassed breech have difficulty chambering older or misshapen darts?
Yes. You gain power at the cost of reload time and dart tolerance.
If you really want to utilize the most power from your blaster you should have a bolt with a barrel to create a full seal beech, but I guess this is good enough for beginners
Indeed. Naturally a full sealed breach has more power but is also much more difficult and has it's own downsides. This was meant as the beginner's guide. I will do a seal breach eventually.
Much helpful. Very appreciated. Thanks Capi’tan Xay
I like the professional approach you take to modding versus how most just use whatever is on hand and hope for the best. Don’t you live in Virginia or Georgia? I know you’re somewhere near Drac. Wish yall were in Memphis TN where I’m at. I could use some help with all of the nerf guns and what I wish to do with them. I haven’t really found much of a community here locally. Although I haven’t searched very much but from the little I have it seems to be somewhat small. I could be and hope to be wrong though! If anyone is around this area and would like to help a modder on the up and up please let me know and we’ll link up or colab. Oh and Captain Xavier if you know of anyone around the area or outskirts of this area (tri-state Mississippi Arkansas Tennessee area) that could possibly help my son and I please holler at me. We are both heavy into the hobby but have only been modding for a couple of months now. Much love nerf fam -JJC aka MaddModz OUUUTTT lulz 😆
For cutting the brass closer to the plastic, a scroll saw with a jig might be good? it might not be any better than a dremel, but atleast its square cuts rather than circle
Captain X I want to do this to a monorail blaster because walcom said in his video that a brass breech would be great for the blasted and improve the consistency, but a saw a few comments in this video saying that this is not a good idea what do think?
brb gonna go buy brass for my raider because that's gonna fix my cracked plunger tube right?
Surely you would need to flare outwards the entrance point on the sleeper breech so when you feed a dart in it is still easier to feed / maintain a relativley high ROF without the dart catching?
Tanksniper he did mention that at the end
I did flair it slightly...I mention it...and I do it...not sure what more you want from me here... :P
Oh captain, my captain!
Captain Xavier I love your videos
Thanks.
I'm working on modding my nerf hammershot and also 3d printing some nerf bullets with a pointed tip and I'm gonna do the same with a longshot when I get one.
When brassing a cylinder i found that half lengthed darts or adventure force darts, even elite darts go in easier.....the off brand darts do not.... do i need to flair the brass more? Or is it just because the darts are crap.... they are some what a softer foam then the other stuff mentioned.
It would be great to know the maximum "safe" ammount of power that you could mount in a given blaster to add as much power as possible without harming internals. I mean, I totally get the fact that when you mod you exchange the blaster life for power, but in case of some of us that have a hard time buying or finding the blasters, middle ground between power and blaster surbavility would be plain amazing. Do you think this is something you can do, or maybe include it as a section in some of those great spring replacement videos? Thank you.
Pretty much all the mods I do are on the safe side of the spectrum for blaster life. Any upgrade spring you can buy short of k26 and k14 will be fine.
@@CaptainXavier Thank you very much
Shouldnt you be using 9/16ths brass for the bolt? How is it going to telescope if it's being blocked by the plastic on the bolt?
That is for a seal breach. I will do a video on that eventually. This is the simpler option. Not as powerful but easier and uses much less brass.
You'll also run into feeding issues as darts wont feed cleanly into the 17/32nds with dart tooth alone. They'll bend out
Only if you fail to flair the brass, load to quickly, and use old darts. These are the reasons I generally do not do brass breaches. I find the trade offs to not be worth the effort and results.
+Captain Xavier, bro I like your work but you should probably add an annotation disclaimer that people DONT do this to their breeches. I know you mention you haven't done a brass breech before but this is a terrible idea. Flairing doesn't make a difference, it's the friction that rejects the dart. You dont run into issues like reload time, dart tolerance, or any other tradeoffs if you do it right. There's a reason why no one does breeches like this, and instead do angel breeches or sleepers. you should always chamber in a larger calibre than the dart. The only part that really needs to be tightbore is the barrel.
"Nothing a man says before the word 'but' really matters" ~Benjen Stark
I agree. This is definitely NOT as good as an Angel Breech or a Full Sealed Breach but I have seen (and been hit by) enough blasters with this exact setup to know that they do work and do increase power. But they are finicky as all get out. I will eventually cover proper sealed breaches and explain why they are a much better option.
I'm not sure if you read the comments, I know this is kind of a older video. But I was considering trying to Brass breech a Hammershot and some other revolver type nerf guns. I assume the process would be the same as you described here for front loaders, but was wondering if there's anything else I should keep in mind.
Yes, be careful. The walls of the cylinders may be too thin. Drill slowly can carefully. Also remember that if the seal between the plunder tube and the cylinder is weaker than the seal of the dart in the barrel, the blaster will not fire. You will also need to increase the spring considerably to be able to clear the brass barrel.
Late response but will add my $0.02 - I recently modified a Maverick, Strongarm, Disruptor, and a bunch of smart-AR front-loaders with brass however I did NOT brass the ENTIRE barrel and did not drill out the entire barrel either, instead I cut "retaining-rings" that I inserted from the front down to where it tapers originally to hold the dart against the AR. I removed the ARs from the revolvers and plugged all side air-release holes on the smart-AR systems. The rings hold the darts more securely in the barrel but not so securely as to prevent a more powerful discharge. I don't have a chronograph to measure the performance boost but it is noticeable by feel and range and especially by never having darts simply fart out of the barrel particularly on the 4th dart from the smart-AR blasters 👍 Not spring-enhancement required! The purpose was to enhance the fun for my kids without increasing difficulty of prime (a major factor for the
can i brass the barrel and keep the AR so i don't break it from dry firing on accident?
Yes, as long as you build it in such a way that the AR still get pressed when you load it.
okay thank you!
Is ant murder going to be a thing in this series?
Until the poison sets in and they all die...yes...until then...I will do it manually!
Translation - "Until the genocide kicks in, individual murder will have to suffice."
Well brassing a magazine breach was much less complicated then I thought
Wait till you see what it takes to do a full sealed breach...
Can't wait til next Monday I love this series being a novice modder it saves a bit of research
I did this to my bigshock, but with a sharpie that fits a nerf dart nicely.
Nice!
A sharpie?
Did you really use a permanent marker as a barrel?
Great vid. I take it you have ants or other small creepy crawlers in your garage? "Murder!!!" lol. Keep up the good work. TkEZ»UK
Just got mt hands on a monorail, would like to see an in depth mod guide once you get on. Kmart ships, so pretty much anybody can have one shipped
I threw cash at Beret (literally) at the mod party and got one. He cleared out a store and had extras with him.
Ive already ipened it up and found a white box with black buttons above the trigger, the whole thing is useless, just locks. I unscrewed the lid to the box and took out all the spring loaded doodads, and the monorail works just fine(you will understand when you open it up)
I wonder if captain is now one of the top on the modding leaderboard...
Gods I hope not...that would be a bad sign for the Mod community...
Captain Xavier it wouldn't be bad at all you are a great modder and a great Nerfer.
I think it was supposed to be funny but you can’t be sure on the internet
So do you add brass to the whole length of the breach or just insert enough brass to fit a dart?
+Nicholas Kast I use a dart length usually. More than that is a waste unless you have a ram rod and that sliws reliad too much.
Thanks :) I'm a big fan of yours.
I know from personal experience, ALWAYS use the proper protection (or as we call it in the automotive industry PPE)
Are you putting 17/32 brass to retaliator breech? I try to do with 9/16 and it’s much harder.
One more thing, can you use a catch spring for the switch shot ex3
To do what?
@@CaptainXavier to upgrade the catch spring
Long shot is simple all you need is to go to the plunger tube and cut the supports everything comes out except for the dart supports
So, does anyone know the performance gain of a sealed breech over this style of brass breech?
I have an EAT I'm making ridiculous for no real reason. A/R is out (I know that's controversial these days), 7 kg Hard kit is in, and I am currently painting it. But what it needs is a killer breech. It's hard to find a definitive walkthrough on it though as there has been so much variation over the years. Best I can tell, I need three widths of pipe, but it's not entirely clear to me why.
A full sealed breach is significantly more powerful (and more or less requires AR removal) however, it comes at the price of a much lower rate of fire. But then so does the sleeper breach really. In both cases you have to prime a bit more slowly or the darts will crumple and jam. Honestly I don't think Either are worth they price in an EAT. They increase the risk of jam and effectively negate the blasters ability to slam fire. Brass breaches are better for things like Retaliators and Longshots than don't have slamfire anyway.
In my opinion...others may disagree.
To make a brass barrel work do you need a breach?
No. You can just muzzle load and it will give you better performance.
What size of brass tubing is best for mega darts? I want to design and 3d print mega sledgefire shells but I don't want to use a 3d printed barrel for them.
It needs to have a 3/4 inside diameter so I would assume 25/32 ?
I would take a 17/32 and bore out the breech and then use 9/16 to bore half way down, cut off the tab and insert the prepared brass and have a barrel attachment with a 9/16 barrel that seals against the 17/32 brass
The tab on the chamber runs along the top of the dart to help prevent folding as the dart is scooped into the chamber from the magazine. The Nexus Pro and others do instead push the dart out of the magazine and seal it into a barrel similar to what you describe, but the space inside is better designed to avoid worrying about dart-folding although it does still occur with that tab missing, even with short darts.
@@Chamdar17 a bit late. Also I didn't know it at the time but Worker was going to be making barrels in basically the same way. The stepped design allows easier feeding because the darts first going into 9/16. This was also a time I did have a dremel and had to make do with making a brass breech with only pipe cutters. The finger left on the stock breech kept the darts in check and never had a feeding issue with that system.
nice video
what size brass pipe would you use for a MEGA blaster? Or if you were going to mod a MEGA to shoot micros what would be the "best" way to go about it?
I have yet to find brass that fits Mega. I'm sure it is out there somewhere. You would need 3/4 i/d. You can make barrel inserts that convert Mega to Elite. Worker makes them...that is probably easiest actually.
Captain Xavier
Alrighty then, thank you anyways, I'll have to check out Worker, and thanks also for the crazy quick response.
The main reason I asked is that I have twin cycloneshocks that I was thinking about modding but I wasn't sure if i wanted to attempt to brass them or just micro-fit them.
I have a couple other ideas for some of my other blasters but they would be moreso experimental and probably somewhat more extensive mods
The Worker convertors are cool because they are removable. But not cheap. They are $5 each so $30 for a full Cyclone Shock.
Captain Xavier ...or 60 for my twins, It looks like I'll be better off with simple internal upgrades and slight external modifications.
Thanks for the advice Xavier
You are welcome.
Hey, guess who also used a hacksaw to cut brass. Albeit a really long time ago. It was pretty annoying.
Hey do you think it is possible to take the cylinder out of a maverick and make it a magazine fed blaster
almost impossible, you need a seal around the dart, and a way for the magazine or belt to feed, all in all its gonna be a ton of work just to have something like a recon
Alex's Custom guns i just want a mag fed pistol with no stock attachments
Arno the Fox the rebelle stryfe re shell
Or the BuzzBee Champion.
Would brassing the barrels on a smart AR gun make it worse due to the need to keep the AR's?
Not if you put in a string enough spring.
Captain Xavier Right. I'm just not yet comfortable doing springs yet.
Guess I should start watching your "Can it take a K26."
Kzitold if you enjoy this you will SUPER enjoy the K26 series. You learn the history of certain blasters, how to tear them apart, little tips and tricks, what springs they can take and how to "button" them back up as Cap says
I have a question do you grease or sand inside of the brass barrel(besides flaring the end) to make it smoother for the darts to enter and exit? for me seems like the darts fit tight in the k&s brass 17/32 barrel. is that normal or should it be smoothed out? need advice.. pls help
I do not do either.
Amazing
as for better tools for cutting the brass for a breech, jeweler's saw and/or tin snips
Question, do you need a more powerful spring if you are going to do a brass barrel?
Usually, yes.
@@CaptainXavier ah, that is going to be a problem, last time i put in a more powerful spring one of the parts broke
@@KitsuneEX-oo8pj then you put in too powerful of a spring. Or you need to get stronger parts.
@@CaptainXavier yea, I’ll probably need stronger parts, but i dont think they make parts for a spy gear wrist blaster, but also the spring was from a bow strike
Awesome
So can I brass my hammershot cylinder using this same method just doing it 5 times? It is my first gun mod and so ive invested hours into painting alone. I dont want to mess it up now. Also just out of curiosity, do you know what size of tube it would take to do the mega darts?
You can. But it is tricky and you do run the risk of ruining the cylinder or that it won't have enough power to even clear the barrel.
@@CaptainXavier I just picked up a dual strike on eBay for 7 bucks and was morbidly curious. Do you know the tubing size? By the way, thanks for all the great tutorials and responses. Do you ever live stream and take donation? Also curious if you had an active discord chat.
Mega is 3/4 inside diameter I believe. I have a Patreon. I rarely stream. I do not have an active discord.
thanks for help
if you had an Immortal Longstrike kit would you only need to brass the barrel?
To determine what is "needed" you must first define a goal.
a Long strike that hits like a truck but is still a springer,
Then yes, you will probably need to build a full brass breach and use half darts.
Is this possible with a snapfire. The barrel looks very small and I don't want to break my blaster
If you mean the Snapfire 8 I would not try it. Revolvers do not brass well. The chamber walls are usually thin and they rarely have enough power to clear a brass barrel.
No I wish but I have a modified new snapfire the one with the pull back prime and wanted to squeeze some more power out of it but the barrel looks very thin and wanted to make sure I didn't compromise the structure of the barrel. Thanks for any advise you can offer
Captain Xavier Maybe he/she means the small, jolt-like pistol known as the snapfire or a sharpfire.
You can try...but again you run the risk of actually losing power if you cannot up the spring enough to clear the barrel.
But then I have successfully brassed jolts so...probably? But the increase is going to be maybe 5 ft?
How do i make a full sealed brass breach everything past the effective barrel is to big to fit 17/32 brass
Each 1/32 size increment fits the previous size. So 17/32 fits and seals inside 9/16 (or 18/32) which in turn fits and seals inside 19/32. Nerf darts are 1/2 (or 16/32) which is why they fit and seal in 17/32 in barrels.
So to build a sealed breach you use a 17/32 barrel nested inside a 9/16 barrel.
i like your medieval helmet
Nice!
So, I brassed my NiteFinder's barrel and added an Ionfire's spring in addition to the stock spring and it hits pretty hard, however, whenever I load the blaster, if I push the dart in and out it makes a squishing noise, is this something that I should be concerned about or is it simply a byproduct of a modification I have or the result of not having done a mod alongside my current mods? It only happens on elite darts, waffle tips don't have this problem.
Huh...doesn't sound like an issue.
Is there any difference in using Copper vs Brass piping???
Yes. Color of the metal, thickness of the metal, softness of the metal, weight of the metal. But functionally? No idea, I have never used copper.
Random question, but may
I ask where I could get PETG pipe?
thanks.
Hardware stores...or the internet?
No, like specific stores? I'm from the midwest :P
I am on the West Coast so oddly enough I am not familiar with the stores in the Midwest.
thank you for this i have a freind who is strating to mod and instead of having to teach him this i can link the vid :)
how much barrel would you suggest for an air blaster. titan etc
+Tyler Affolder depends on many factors. There is a max length for each tank because they have different capacities. If you go shoter than the max tou lose power. If you go over it will not clear the barrel at all. Abd before you ask, I have no idea what the max is for any tank. I have never tried.
Do you know the size brass barrel that a nerf mega dart will fit?
Does it have to be brass for any reason? Would 1/2" ID cpvc work just as good, or any other material?
Those will work for making new barrels but are generally too thick to fit inside the existing barrel. Brass works so well because it is so thin.
Awesome, thanks
just asking but can u brass a fly wheel blaster or is just for springers?
It is possible but not with 17/32" and not for the same purpose, the only reason to put brass in a flywheel blaster is a kind of accuracy boost that I'm not entirely sure how it works, but usually it's 9/16" for that purpose as it's more of a guide not a tight fit
Sen Kanashimi thanks man
I thought you used 5/8 brass to brass flywheels
I'm not sure there's a particular correct diameter, I've heard 9/16 more at least around my area
Creed King18 VladtheNerfNeko (Drac's friend Vlad from all of the Endwar videos) recently did a video about brassing an Artifact Red cage to get similar output to the Dr Snikkas cage.
Ive heard using a 9 16th barrel is better and to use 17 32nd just for the breach. Its this true?
It depends on the build. For long barreled sealed breaches that is sometimes better. For a single shot brass barrel, no.
@@CaptainXavier what about brass breaching something like the modulus longstrike?
Again, depends on the build. Style of breach, weight of spring, length of barrel, desired fps, etc. There are no easy answers. You have to do some research and some experimentation.
@@CaptainXavier ah i see. Thank you for your help
Where can I find a brass barrel for the rapidstrike?
can you use a 1/2 inch drill bit?
No. 1/2 is the size of the inside of the brass. You need a bit the size of the outside, which is 17/32
How do you type the name of the brass size? im trying to find some on the internet.
17/32
I know this may sound stupid but can I brass barrel a buzz bee double shot, I’m looking to just make a super modified one because I like double barreled shotguns and This is the only one I can find
I honestly don't know. Those blasters are very weak. It is work a try though.
@@CaptainXavier ok they are only ten bucks so if a break it I can always buy a new one for dirt cheap
@@CaptainXavier I guess I would have to add a stronger spring and then a stronger cord, and after that I could take advantage of the brass barrel
@@william2glaser227 absolutely. A better double barrel shot gun (if you can find one) is the X-Shot Eliminator. That thing is a beast.
@@CaptainXavier I’ll look
Can u brass the barrel without removing the ar
If you can figure out how to ensure that the AR gets pressed, maybe. But you really need all the power you can get to clear a brass breach.
Will 1/4 suffice as a substitute for the 17/32 (i know you respond and just praying you see this)
1/4in? No...not even a little. Nerf Darts are 1/2 in.
Captain Xavier hm thanks. I had a 1/4 in pvc pipe that fit quit snug and was wondering if it transferred over
1/4 what? It can't be inches. First of all they do not make PVC that small and second that would be half the size of a Nerf Dart, there is no way it would fit. Now I am curious...
Captain Xavier well mabye it’s you haven’t seen it. It’s a nice tight fit around the dart and works quite nice. I use it to singe my talon and for a better fit on darts for my k26ed firestrike
Captain Xavier I’ve used it so many times that I have cut off the part where it states the size. The reason I asked it because 17/32 brass has a 23 day ship time and I was trying to cut it down with a differnt size brass
I got a stampede, longstrike, BLUE nitefinder, and a hailfire thrifting today (all one store) for only $14
Can you direct me to the source that you acquired that hammer if you remember?
Goodwill
Aaaahhhhh brass pipe is so expensive in Denmark a 12" piece is like $13 on Amazon and eBay and I haven't been able to find it locally yet
Ask your local hardware store if they can order it in
And if so does it reduce the life of the switch shot ex3
Yes
@@CaptainXavier by how much
Does it reduce the life
Could you make a soldering tutorial?
I could...but trust me, I am not an expert. There are much MUCH better tutorials already out there.
I want to try it on a doublestrike
i am currently in the process of brass barreling a modified barrelstrike, its just as agonizing as it sounds
Dan Meuse I see it as unnecessary but it still seems pretty cool. Good luck!
@@air_ im thinking of using it as an emergency last resort in hvz, like a jolt on crack. Something I can use to get out of being cornered by several zombies with one triggerpull. I finished it 2 days ago, and it works surprisingly well. to be honest im mostly just doing it for shits and giggles, and its great for that
A slag hammer works for flaring barrels as well :) at least the hammer I got from harbor freight
Reamer might be a good tool for to wider a pipe. Plumbers use it for their job.
If I close my eyes it sounds like a nerf 101 audiobook recorded by Marvin the Martian. Definitely not a bad thing 👌
Why do you not want John to cut brass with your band saw?
Because it does not have a metal cutting blade on it and now it is so dull it barely cuts wood.
Sounds like John owes you a blade.