Leveling this printer is a pain in the butt, and there's no consistency between this video and what the manual says. The manual says "heat up to 70/240". Why? The manual also says to only to the Z-offset step if the nozzle is either too far away or too close to the print bed. It's all so confusing and I'm getting no consistent results. I've already made a bunch of scratches in the bed because you can't trust the leveling you've done vs. what actually goes on when you start the print.
@@ecovlies frage: wenn man den start-gcode mit "M420 S1 Z10" ergänzt hat, sollte der drucker dann vor jedem druck das bett automatisch leveln? hab das nämlich ergänzt und er druckt genauso wie vorher... ohne die korrektur im im gcode? :-/
@@gerhardsilbergasser4762 Nein, er levelt nicht jedesmal neu, sondern greift dann immer auf Deine gespeicherten Daten zurück. Dieses würde er ohne Ergänzung nicht machen....
X2 or Gpro..this is the levelling . 1) heat up bed to 70c. 2) level the 4 corners using paper (slight scratch on paper) and adjusting the bed knobs, do it carefully and evenly so as not to put a bow in the bed. 3) auto level using the screen button, save to Eeprom. 4) adjust Z=0 from the screen, the hotend will do a z probe then move over so that the nozzle is in the middle..using paper raise or lower the print head using the buttons on the screen.. slight scratch on paper, save to Eeprom. Then "Home" the printer (do not just switch off the printer after Z=0 because when you switch on again it will self test and possibly break the sensor tip) Once printing you can raise or lower the print head using up and down arrow in the baby steps menu from the screen menu. Ensure that you have the start code like this; G28 ; home all axes M420 S1 Z10; load bed Mesh The M420 on the line after G28. Personally I don't use G29 this would auto level before every print.
hi, so in wich order do you proceed now ? I try both , I don't know wich is the best , I don't know if the auto level make the Z-offset again ? or maintain ... z if it's made before ?
2 года назад+4
Based on the video, you press EEPROM twice right after the auto leveling.
@ Thanks for all your help everyone. I was pressing twice after reading our comments here, but I went back to the video and at 3:00 it looks like he pressed it twice but the first touch of EEPROM save didn’t register (probably due to him lightly touching screen etc). So he pressed it again
I have all the same questions the Orestes of you do. Would have been awesome to have an actual verbal description for soundtrack instead of the music. Or even text overlaid. The video is ambiguous in places.
I have tried leveling my X2 10 times and still can't get it to the right level. I have to baby step when the print starts to get it the right level. I don't think the e-prom is saving after auto leveling. I don't see anything happening when the e-prom button is pressed. Is there a way to totally clear the e-prom and start again?
Check your start gcode. I know it requires a line there to read the saved EPROM offset data before starting. I am away from my printer/home/shed so can't tell you the exact code. Look it up. You can find it on the USB stick that comes with the printer. It has an early version of CURA on it but the first few lines of gcode are all you need to read. EDIT NOT the gcode in the enclosed CURA software, read the lines from the gcode on the test print on the stick.
By the way, I was mistaken. On the CURA software that comes with the printer, the idiots LEFT OFF the start code line needed to read the autoleveling EPROM. You CAN however open the GCODE of the test print that is on the stick (which the made with Slic3r, not CURA oddly enough) and the code is there. You should see: G28 ; home all axes M420 S1 Z2 ; use auto-level data The G28 command by itself ignores the autolevel settings, the M420 S1 Z2 reads it.
@@BariumCobaltNitrog3n The "Z" portion of that GCODE line is the "Fade" adjustment. It "fades" the leveling mesh out over the number of layers you put there. It gives more accurate parts to have the printer stop giving all those mesh leveling commands over the entire part. The smaller the number, the faster the leveling mesh is faded out and done away with. I use a small number for a more accurate part. I have found 2 to 4 to be MORE than enough provided you do not have a print bed that looks like a washboard. 10 is way too much IMHO.
I have a question: My Z-Probe value in the firmware is -1.58 This value indicates how much higher the BL-Touch sensor is in relation to the nozzle. If I install a new nozzle, the value will probably no longer be correct. How do I make sure I get a new correct spacing value? Do I have to measure the who manually and store it in the firmware or how do I find out?
So frustrating. Set up printer this weekend per the manual. First test print I scratched the shit out of my bed. I re-level every time I turn the machine on and every time it's like I'm doing it for the first time. Frustrating.
@@MrBswoolf No solution. Now,every time I turn on my machine to print, I manually level the bed, auto-level the bed, EEPROM save, set Z-offset, EEPROM save, then load my print. At least I get great prints.
@@Artillery3D You reply to this guy and not the people with confusing problems? Why is there no confirmation when pressing save to eeprom? You pushed it twice.
When I do this the Nozzle is right on the bed and doesn’t let the paper move, but turning the knobs under the bed doesn’t seem to create any sort of space?
Don't forget to turn the bed all the way down when leveling so that the springs are under tension. I scratched my Bed to hell before. Btw the Artillery Bed ist not the Best.
Received mine today, had it up and running perfectly in 30 minutes. Auto leveling works unless you screw it up setting it up initially and/or either don't save to the EPROM correctly or don't fine tune the Z offset on the first print or don't have the correct start GCODE in your slicer. You MUST have the correct GCODE in your slicer to make the machine read the auto-leveling EPROM settings. Regular old CURA DOES NOT HAVE THIS unless you install the CURA version that came on the printer's USB stick.
Question for everyone: I bought this printer and received it. After building it, then trying to level the bed with assisted manual leveling. The extruder will go down in the middle Without the probe even coming out and goes down and is just forcing the extruder downward into the bed (I lowered it all the way down so its not making contact) and It can’t go further and the machine makes a really loud buzzing sound. It’s not being limited by anything. Please help anyone because I can’t print until it’s fixed
Almost all the people having trouble with auto-leveling are not paying attention to the start GCODE in their slicer. Regular old CURA for example does NOT have the correct start code for an X2, even the latest CURA version 5.x which is a crap omission on CURA's part. You cannot use the old X1 GCODE start profile CURA uses. It isn't that simple. The start GCODE MUST start with something like this: "G28 ; home all axes M420 S1 Z2 ; use auto-level data" That last line is what tells the printer to read the auto-offsets you stored in the EPROM when you auto-leveled the bed. You can also use the micro up and down z offset button on the control screen to fine tune it... then hit the store EPROM button. If you don't have the M420 instruction the printer WILL NOT READ THE AUTO-LEVELING data you stored. The last part of that line, "Z2", is the "Fade" instruction. This "fades" out the auto-offset dimensions over the distance shown... 2mm in this case. This prevents problems occuring in the print at higher layers. 2 is quite a fast fade and numbers up to 10 are common. 4 to 5 would be a good start if you don't know what you are doing.
2 года назад
hi, thanks for the info. where do you place, enter, modify and apply this staring GCODE. Thanks
@ In your slicer you need to find in your "Setting" screen something says "Scripts" (in Simplify3d) or in CURA it is under "Manage Printer" -> "Machine Settings"->"Start Code". Here is my start code. It will work for almost every auto-leveling printer. G28 ;Home M420 S1 Z3 ;Force printer to use auto bed leveling settings G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up G1 X5.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position G1 X5.1 Y100.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line G1 X5.4 Y100.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little G1 X5.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
This ABL is a joke! i crashed my new bed when i try to level exactly how it is described in the manual. Now i have a view scratches i dont't like - so i will order an "old school" z-endstop and deactivate this shit thing ;-( There is no need for this semi-automatic-ABL-Sensor....
Save your money and get a better printer. I have two Artillery Sidewinder X2s and both are now broken. One still under warranty and wont level the build plate at all. Second one that was a decent performer will not power on anymore. Artillery support have been totally USELESS and non responsive.
Wish I had watched this BEFORE the machine scratched up my bed!
literally this, exactly what happened to me
Leveling this printer is a pain in the butt, and there's no consistency between this video and what the manual says. The manual says "heat up to 70/240". Why? The manual also says to only to the Z-offset step if the nozzle is either too far away or too close to the print bed. It's all so confusing and I'm getting no consistent results. I've already made a bunch of scratches in the bed because you can't trust the leveling you've done vs. what actually goes on when you start the print.
Same issue !
I managed to get some good prints. But i have not a clue what this auto levelling is even physically supposed to do as mentioned.
Hast du auch im Silcer M420 S1 Z10 eingetragen?
@@ecovlies frage: wenn man den start-gcode mit "M420 S1 Z10" ergänzt hat, sollte der drucker dann vor jedem druck das bett automatisch leveln? hab das nämlich ergänzt und er druckt genauso wie vorher... ohne die korrektur im im gcode? :-/
@@gerhardsilbergasser4762 Nein, er levelt nicht jedesmal neu, sondern greift dann immer auf Deine gespeicherten Daten zurück. Dieses würde er ohne Ergänzung nicht machen....
X2 or Gpro..this is the levelling . 1) heat up bed to 70c. 2) level the 4 corners using paper (slight scratch on paper) and adjusting the bed knobs, do it carefully and evenly so as not to put a bow in the bed. 3) auto level using the screen button, save to Eeprom. 4) adjust Z=0 from the screen, the hotend will do a z probe then move over so that the nozzle is in the middle..using paper raise or lower the print head using the buttons on the screen.. slight scratch on paper, save to Eeprom. Then "Home" the printer (do not just switch off the printer after Z=0 because when you switch on again it will self test and possibly break the sensor tip) Once printing you can raise or lower the print head using up and down arrow in the baby steps menu from the screen menu.
Ensure that you have the start code like this;
G28 ; home all axes
M420 S1 Z10; load bed Mesh
The M420 on the line after G28.
Personally I don't use G29 this would auto level before every print.
Thank you ver much, good manual.
This is the answer I was looking for. Thank you very much for posting.
Great explanation thanks.
1:49 Aren't we supposed to EEPROM SAVE right after the z=0 leveling as well? Because that's how it's described in the manual.
hi, so in wich order do you proceed now ? I try both , I don't know wich is the best , I don't know if the auto level make the Z-offset again ? or maintain ... z if it's made before ?
Based on the video, you press EEPROM twice right after the auto leveling.
@ Hi, I think that if we do again Z=0 to check the position saved , it make a reset of the Z position no ?
@ Thanks for all your help everyone. I was pressing twice after reading our comments here, but I went back to the video and at 3:00 it looks like he pressed it twice but the first touch of EEPROM save didn’t register (probably due to him lightly touching screen etc). So he pressed it again
I have all the same questions the Orestes of you do. Would have been awesome to have an actual verbal description for soundtrack instead of the music. Or even text overlaid. The video is ambiguous in places.
I have tried leveling my X2 10 times and still can't get it to the right level. I have to baby step when the print starts to get it the right level. I don't think the e-prom is saving after auto leveling. I don't see anything happening when the e-prom button is pressed. Is there a way to totally clear the e-prom and start again?
Check your start gcode. I know it requires a line there to read the saved EPROM offset data before starting. I am away from my printer/home/shed so can't tell you the exact code. Look it up. You can find it on the USB stick that comes with the printer. It has an early version of CURA on it but the first few lines of gcode are all you need to read. EDIT NOT the gcode in the enclosed CURA software, read the lines from the gcode on the test print on the stick.
By the way, I was mistaken. On the CURA software that comes with the printer, the idiots LEFT OFF the start code line needed to read the autoleveling EPROM. You CAN however open the GCODE of the test print that is on the stick (which the made with Slic3r, not CURA oddly enough) and the code is there. You should see:
G28 ; home all axes
M420 S1 Z2 ; use auto-level data
The G28 command by itself ignores the autolevel settings, the M420 S1 Z2 reads it.
@@tvideo1189 my manual says z10 instead of z2, what does that number do?
@@BariumCobaltNitrog3n The "Z" portion of that GCODE line is the "Fade" adjustment. It "fades" the leveling mesh out over the number of layers you put there. It gives more accurate parts to have the printer stop giving all those mesh leveling commands over the entire part. The smaller the number, the faster the leveling mesh is faded out and done away with. I use a small number for a more accurate part. I have found 2 to 4 to be MORE than enough provided you do not have a print bed that looks like a washboard. 10 is way too much IMHO.
@@tvideo1189 Good to know thanks!
I have a question:
My Z-Probe value in the firmware is -1.58
This value indicates how much higher the BL-Touch sensor is in relation to the nozzle.
If I install a new nozzle, the value will probably no longer be correct. How do I make sure I get a new correct spacing value? Do I have to measure the who manually and store it in the firmware or how do I find out?
Did exactly the same. Print start scraping the bed... G420 S1 is on ... So frustrating.
Nice m8!
should i use G420 on my Gcode?
after you auto leval the printer... how often should you now re do this procedure ?
So frustrating. Set up printer this weekend per the manual. First test print I scratched the shit out of my bed. I re-level every time I turn the machine on and every time it's like I'm doing it for the first time. Frustrating.
So is mine Do you have a solution meanwhile?
@@MrBswoolf No solution. Now,every time I turn on my machine to print, I manually level the bed, auto-level the bed, EEPROM save, set Z-offset, EEPROM save, then load my print. At least I get great prints.
@@Xy0ud0ntkn0wmeX What a mess. Thx.
Thanks. Nice tutorial.
Hope can help you a lot!^^
@@Artillery3D You reply to this guy and not the people with confusing problems? Why is there no confirmation when pressing save to eeprom? You pushed it twice.
Awesome bro 👍
I received a new X2 today and it will not home correctly. It goes way to far to the side and just grinds. What can I do?
My printer collides with the print bed. Called the hotline, but everyone is on vacation. I want a printer to print, not to tinker with.
Then you bought the wrong printer, I'm sorry
When I do this the Nozzle is right on the bed and doesn’t let the paper move, but turning the knobs under the bed doesn’t seem to create any sort of space?
z=0 then up arrow a few times and save.
I cant have any service support from Turkey dealer
I followed the video, NOT the manual and got perfect results.
Don't forget to turn the bed all the way down when leveling so that the springs are under tension.
I scratched my Bed to hell before.
Btw the Artillery Bed ist not the Best.
I want to return this. What a headache I've had with it.
Hello, friend, please contact support team to know more details, here is the link: desk.zoho.com/portal/evnovo/home
Received mine today, had it up and running perfectly in 30 minutes. Auto leveling works unless you screw it up setting it up initially and/or either don't save to the EPROM correctly or don't fine tune the Z offset on the first print or don't have the correct start GCODE in your slicer. You MUST have the correct GCODE in your slicer to make the machine read the auto-leveling EPROM settings. Regular old CURA DOES NOT HAVE THIS unless you install the CURA version that came on the printer's USB stick.
perfect 👍
Tantos problemas, como me arrepiento de haber comprado está basura
I should have watched this first. Now I have benchy scrapped on my bed
Question for everyone: I bought this printer and received it. After building it, then trying to level the bed with assisted manual leveling. The extruder will go down in the middle Without the probe even coming out and goes down and is just forcing the extruder downward into the bed (I lowered it all the way down so its not making contact) and It can’t go further and the machine makes a really loud buzzing sound. It’s not being limited by anything. Please help anyone because I can’t print until it’s fixed
I would say hit up artillery/elegoo directly, they have super good and helpful customer service. Give them a call.
@@scottfavaro892 forget it. I fixed it myself
@@Joeyfordayz2301 how did you fix it?
@@scottfavaro892 it was just an incorrect cable reading on the bottom connection
@@Joeyfordayz2301 good to know, glad you figured it out by
my finger is too big for this screen lol
Almost all the people having trouble with auto-leveling are not paying attention to the start GCODE in their slicer. Regular old CURA for example does NOT have the correct start code for an X2, even the latest CURA version 5.x which is a crap omission on CURA's part. You cannot use the old X1 GCODE start profile CURA uses. It isn't that simple. The start GCODE MUST start with something like this:
"G28 ; home all axes
M420 S1 Z2 ; use auto-level data"
That last line is what tells the printer to read the auto-offsets you stored in the EPROM when you auto-leveled the bed. You can also use the micro up and down z offset button on the control screen to fine tune it... then hit the store EPROM button. If you don't have the M420 instruction the printer WILL NOT READ THE AUTO-LEVELING data you stored. The last part of that line, "Z2", is the "Fade" instruction. This "fades" out the auto-offset dimensions over the distance shown... 2mm in this case. This prevents problems occuring in the print at higher layers. 2 is quite a fast fade and numbers up to 10 are common. 4 to 5 would be a good start if you don't know what you are doing.
hi, thanks for the info. where do you place, enter, modify and apply this staring GCODE. Thanks
@ In your slicer you need to find in your "Setting" screen something says "Scripts" (in Simplify3d) or in CURA it is under "Manage Printer" -> "Machine Settings"->"Start Code". Here is my start code. It will work for almost every auto-leveling printer.
G28 ;Home
M420 S1 Z3 ;Force printer to use auto bed leveling settings
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
G1 X5.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position
G1 X5.1 Y100.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line
G1 X5.4 Y100.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little
G1 X5.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
@@tvideo1189 thanks man. I'll try this
@ so , did it work?
@@Hanzi2u it did, thank you all!
Just got one and I love it 😎👍💪
This ABL is a joke! i crashed my new bed when i try to level exactly how it is described in the manual. Now i have a view scratches i dont't like - so i will order an "old school" z-endstop and deactivate this shit thing ;-( There is no need for this semi-automatic-ABL-Sensor....
Hi ! Could you describe how you did to change the BLTOUCH for a z inductive sensor? did you have to change the firmware?
Lots and lots of button pushing without any explanation - almost totally useless - damn annoying noise identifying as music - very unprofessional
Hi, we will notice it in next video, thanks for your suggestion.
Save your money and get a better printer. I have two Artillery Sidewinder X2s and both are now broken. One still under warranty and wont level the build plate at all. Second one that was a decent performer will not power on anymore. Artillery support have been totally USELESS and non responsive.