Please hit the like button if you find this video helpful as a token of appreciation for all the effort it took to make this video and also so that this video can spread to more people. Thanks for your support!
This is the advice that i needed to make the shift from reversed Bowden tube into a direct drive setup. I already had purchased the E3D V6 hotend and a BMG extruder last year. So by the sound of the words “best upgrade i’ve ever made “ i will do exactly that. Thanks for sharing your expertise!
Just wanted to say thanks for the design. Finished building this a few weeks back using some clone parts I had kicking around and finally fitted it today (also installed Klipper last week, oddly enough). It's running on a dual Z modded Ender 3 v2 clone, so the whole thing is about as budget as it gets. Only run a couple of leveling prints so far while I dial in Z and get things squared away before tuning properly and I'm already liking the responsiveness.
@YouMakeTech - Just swung by to update. After a couple of teething problems I've got this printing reliably now, excellent piece of work. Thanks for taking the time to design and upload the modification.
thank you for this. i was reading and messing with hero me adapters for a long time before i realized i needed a whole other gantry adapter from a partner website they link. this is exactly what i was looking for without all the complexity. also great suggestion on the pancake stepper, that is something i didnt think to do and will certainly have to order.
Thanks for your comment. Glad the video was helpful. I come from the Hero Me too but wanted something simpler and ended up designing my own! Hopefully you will enjoy the simplicity and performance of this direct drive!
Thanks for your comment. I am working on a Volcano version. It will be available shortly. It is not adjustable on purpose to simplify maintenance and maximize accuracy / reapeatability (no change in airflow / z-offset even when completly disassembling/re-installing everything!)
Years after, I still think this is a must have upgrade. You can find some information about my setup + sponsored links here: www.youmaketech.com/bmg-e3d-v6-direct-drive-for-ender-3-pro-v2-cr10/
what a great video, so much so I have got my ender 3 pro printing the same set up. One thing I have noticed though, is that I also chose the same pancake stepper as in your video, but I have noticed that it is buzzing/vibrating. please can you help? ( I am running Klipper as apposed to marlin )
@@buiphuchau9804 I updated the ABL bracket to be compatible with the CR Touch. You can download the new version (v29) on Cults: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/bmg-e3d-v6-direct-drive-for-creality-ender-3-cr-10 At the bottom of this page ( www.youmaketech.com/bmg-e3d-v6-direct-drive-for-ender-3-pro-v2-cr10/ ), you can see the CR Touch installed with the new bracket. Cheers
3:33 About the graph, you have not tried running the BMG in a bowden setup and only compared the stock to the direct drive setup. Do you think it might have a similar result without a direct drive setup? Also, do you often print using PLA and PLA+? I read that I don't print higher temp filament, an all metal hotend might not be as good as one using PTFE tubing up to the nozzle. What are yout thoughts on that? Thanks for your good work.
In the video, I compare the extrusion performance between the Creality direct drive and the BMG/E3D V6 direct drive. I expect a bowden setup to be worse than a direct drive when it comes to extrusion force/non bending of the filament. I print mostly with Sunlu PLA+. I read that too, that all metal hotend are not good for PLA and result in clogging but I haven't had any clogging yet since I installed the E3D V6! I suspect issues may come from using non genuine heatbreaks. The heatbreak accounts for almost half the price of the E3D V6. A genuine heatbreak is difficult to manufacture and many clones may not meet the quality standards required to ensure troublefree extrusion.
@@YouMakeTech Yes, in my experience is better to use a ptfe tube rather than a not perfect all metal heat break. To work as expected, the inside of the all metal heat break should match the smoothness of a ptfe tube, otherwise you are buying another set of problems. GReat video btw.
I have this upgrade and it works great. But my resonance measuring show 2 peaks : 45Hz and 70Hz. You mantioned that you have such a situation on other version. I wonder if it can be coused by print the whole thing in PLA?
I don't think PLA is the issue. When you're measuring the frequencies, take a look at which parts of the printer vibrate the most. Any screws that is not tightened enough can result in a resonance! Also, try to put your printer on a heavy table, put the filament spool at another location, check the tensioning of the belts etc.
Hello, it's a nice design, thanks for sharing it. I have ordered the necessary parts to assemble it and I have downloaded the corresponding files. I would like to know if you have a volcano hotend fanduct. thank you very much, regards!!
I am curious what is the weight of the carriage after doing all those upgrades, compared to the stock one? Do you plan to install a dual Z axis to help support the additiionnal weight by the direct drive?
It adds about 300 grams to the carriage: 75 g for the Bondtech BMG + 220 g for the motor. I have not seen yet the need to install a dual axis but I found this one which looks interesting: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4243512 . To come back to the weight, I don't see it as an issue because the Y axis is heavy anyway: to move on the Y axis requires to move the bed + the part being printed.
Don't you get clogs when printing with PLA and an all-metal hot-end? The Teflon tube in the 'clone' heatbreak is to prevent clogging when printing with PLA right? I mainly print with PLA and I'm not sure if I should use the all-metal one or the one with the teflon tube in it... What is your experience?
I mostly print with PLA and never had a clog with the E3D V6 all metal heatbreak. I believe the V6 clones have a teflon tube in the heatbreak because the surface finish is not good & to reduce the cost. A good heatbreak requires precise machining / tight tolerances / very good surface finish. More info can be found here -> 3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10998/e3d-v6-original-vs-clone .
Why do you upgraded the already upgraded direct drive? What is the difference between this and the previous direct drive upgrade( I have seen your previous video how to move the stock extruder to top of the hot end)
I am constantly trying to improve my Ender 3! I try to show many alternatives (like I did for fan ducts) so you can decide which ones best suit your needs, budget & taste. The SpeedDrive V1 direct drive shown in my previous video is free and is already an improvement over the stock setup. This setup provides additional benefits due to the use of high end components: Ultra accurate extrusion and retractions => better print quality + faster print speeds are feasible due to higher volumetric flow rate + no maintenance (no need to change the PTFE tube) + higher temperatures are possible thanks to the all-metal hotend. This really pushes the Ender 3 to the next level for people who need it, but it comes at a cost: It almost doubles the price of the Ender 3!
For this specific set of components (V6 + BMG + BLTouch + 5015 fan), my mount is probably the best you can get for your Ender 3. It includes every lesson I have learned from installing dozen other mounts and fan ducts on my Ender 3. I spent countless hours optimizing it for very specific requirements that differentiate it from the competition: see more details here: www.youmaketech.com/bmg-e3d-v6-direct-drive-for-ender-3-pro-v2-cr10/ . In particular, this setup is much easier to install & service than any other mount I have tested, it makes no trade-offs and maximizes the performance of this set of components. And last but not least, it is fully documented & tested + comes with firmwares / configuration files + assembly videos & manual + print settings (in work) + technical support. Hundreds of people installed it and the feedback was 100% positive!
Hello ! I have a quick question, I own an Ender 3 and I have a SKR Mini E3 v1.2. I see that you share your firmware but I want to know if your Marlin SKR Mini E3 3.0 is compatible with mine v1.2 ? Btw, thanks for this design !
I don't think my firmware is compatible with v1.2. To build a firmware for v1.2, you need to start from BTT files ( github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/firmware/V1.2/Marlin-2.0.7.2-SKR-mini-E3-V1.2/Marlin ) and make a diff with mines with a tool like Windiff, then include all changes that seem relevant! Good luck!
Great insights! I have a stock Ender 3 with some printed upgrades. What do I need to order to get this printhead? BMG Extruder is already in the mail. So which V6 Hotend I need? 1.75mm all metall? Can you say which fans I need to build exactly the printhead you are using? Should I print the mount in PETG or PLA?
Thanks for your comment. To get the exact same setup as shown on the video, you need an E3D V6 1.75 mm, 24V Direct Drive, a BondTech BMG extruder (standard version, not mirrored), a 5015 blower fan, three M3x40 mm screws. Optionally, to make the printhead lighter, you can install a NEMA17 pancake stepper motor, 22 or 25 mm high. Also, I use a JST male to female 2 pins connector to connect the 5015 fan so it is easy to disconnect the fan when needed. You may need a stepper motor extension cable if your current cable cannot reach the top of the printer. The print head is 3d printed and available on Cults: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/bmg-e3d-v6-direct-drive-for-creality-ender-3-cr-10 . You also need to flash the firmware. You can find my configuration files & firmware on GitHub: github.com/YouMakeTech/Marlin-2.0.x_config . I printed my parts in PLA, but PETG should be fine too. Please let me know how it goes! See you soon on YouMakeTech!
@@YouMakeTech I ordered all missing parts yesterday and start printing the groundplate made of PETG. Is not as clean as PLA. I'm asking if I should print it in PLA? Which material is more suitable for this use case? I thought PETG is more rigid. I used 40% infill for the groundplate and 20% for the fan duct. For the fan duct I need supports when printing in PETG. Sorry, I'm a beginner in 3D printing so I'm happy if you can answer my questions. Have a nice weekend!
I haven't tried PTEG so it is hard for me to recommend it. Mine is in PLA, it works fine. The mount is 8mm thick by design to be rigid. All parts are designed to print support free. The fan shround does not have the correct orientation by default. It should be printed with the right side on the build plate. Hope this helps. Please let me know if you have any further question
This is what I use with Sunlu PLA+: 220 deg C nozzle temperature, 70 deg C build plate temperature, 0.2 mm layer height, 0.4 mm line width, 0.8 mm walls, 0.8 mm top/bottom thickness, 30% infill, initial fan speed of 0% and 100% fan speed at layer 3, supports disabled.
This is great. I bought it and downloaded and printed it. My question what would it take to make an extended fan mount for the V6 volcano hotend? This one is good for the standard. Thank you.
Thank you for downloading this design! I made a version for the Volcano : cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/bmg-e3d-volcano-direct-drive-for-creality-ender-3-pro-v2-cr-10
No, just send me an email, I will send you the files. You can find my email in the About section of my RUclips channel. I can't make "sales" in Cults3d like "buy one, get the second free". And you're the first person interested in using the 2 designs. Most people have only one hotend!
le E3D V6 m’intéresse pour imprimer du Nylon carbone. Je suis en train d'imprimer de l'abs a 250 en full stock et je n'ai pas de problème d'impression .. pour le moment la capricorne tient bon ,-). Avec votre version du merlin, pouvons nous monter à 300° si je prends un E3D V6 ?
Vous touchez les limites du Capricorn! Je crois que le maxi maxi c'est 260! La E3D V6 est limitée à 295 degres à cause du thermistor. Pour monter plus haut, E3D recommende d'installer un thermocouple. Avec ma version de Marlin, vous pouvez monter à 300. Pour monter plus haut, il faut changer HEATER_0_MAXTEMP dans le fichier Configuration.h
@@YouMakeTech cela pourrait etre un sujet interessant. Comment monter en température pour imprimer du Nylon carbon. La resistance semble incroyable et cela offre de réelles ouvertures a l'impression 3d !. Merci de votre réponse et votre partage. Je vais suivre votre chaine ! j'ai trouvé ca, mais ca reste compliqué ... ruclips.net/video/qXUtxt61Ae0/видео.html. Existe t'il des imprimantes pas trop chers qui montent a ces températures ?
I really want to use your BMG direct drive adapter design on ender 3v2 but I only have an inductive sensor type LJ12A3-4-Z/BX-5V diameter 12mm. can you help me to use your bmg direct drive adapter design with a 12mm inductive sensor?
Why do you absolutly want to use an inductive sensor? Why not buying a BLTouch or a clone? For me to update this design to use an inductive sensor would require hours of work + buying an inductive sensor for testing.
The strength of this design is actually a by-product of its very limited compatibility. It is specifically optimized for a set of components. The positions of the ventilator and the ABL sensors are not adjustable. This is done on purpose: to have minimal variation in performance. Always the same airflow, always the same z offset even when I take everything apart for maintenance and reassembly. I can even switch between several firmwares with exactly the same settings! Since using this design, I never had to change the z offset! There are already many (good) designs available on Thingiverse that are highly compatible with multiple ABL hotends / extruders and sensors. But IMO, their high compatibility comes at a price: compromise on performance + variability in performance after each maintenance + time it takes to get everything back in place after each maintenance due to the high number of adjustments.
I've got the same set up for my V2 and the V6 hotend is kind of loose in the BMG. I notified Bondtech and no joke the said to use electrical tape. I bought the parts a couple months ago and just recently had a chance to install or I would have returned both. They are both official parts too. I would expect this from counterfeit parts but not original. Very disappointed in Bondtech. Any ideas on how to fix? Thanks in advance.
Sorry, I don't have a solution. Mine was of impressive quality with a very tight fit. Are you sure your BMG/E3D V6 are 100% genuine parts? There are many counterfeits parts on Amazon, ebay, Banggood etc. Where did you buy your parts? Another subscriber had a similar issue (with a clone BMG) and he built the SpeedDrive version (www.thingiverse.com/thing:5086987 ). The SpeedDrive version uses a small bowdenbtube between the extruder and the hotend and therefore does not require a perfect fit. Good luck!
@@YouMakeTech I got the Bondtech from Printed Solid an Authorized dealer and the hotend from Matter Hackers so you can never be 100% sure but I pretty confident they're legit. thanks for the help. Thats actually kinda defeats the purpose a little don't it?
I'm still knda ticked that the had the guts to recommended electrical tape on a new product. This always happens when you have project with 2 manufactures involved, They each blame the other when there's a problem. LOL
Yes, that's true: never have 2 cooks in the kitchen! So disappointing. Mine are of so good quality and they fit perfectly together... A bad lot maybe. I feel sorry for you
This rather funny I did that trick months back. But with a 3d printed mount and a V6 it worked really well. Now with my triangle labs BMG clone and v6 its a very snug fit
So I have this mount of yours for the volcano v6 and the other v6. Unfortunately I have the Chinese version and they both clogg constantly and I'm tired of messing with it. But I love your mounts. Is there a easy way to modify one of them to keep everything the same but use a stock hotend or a micro swiss?
V6 clones are junk. It is pretty sad because E3D V6 drawings are open source. But the clone manufacturers decided to cut the cost at the wrong places hence clogging... Make sure you use a sock . You can also try to replace the heatbreak by a genuine one. These 2 things alone should solve your clogging issue. Why not simply buying a genuine V6?! A V6 works reliably and is worth 60 euros IMO.You are not the first to ask for the same mount with a BMG + stock hotend. I will see what I can do and let you know
@@YouMakeTech I could get a genuine v6. But I was trying this setup to see if I wanted to go that route. But for now I need to do something. I'm sure it's the heat break because regardless if I have the volcano block or regular block with a sock on both. They both clogg within a few minutes.
The heatbreak in the clones let too much heat go up in the cold zone. It results in the filament melting too early => clogging. The genuine heatbreak is ultra thin to reduce heat transfer. Try a genuine E3d V6. You won't regret it. The genuine V6 is a reliable, high quality and time proven hotend. It has been sold more in the world than any other parts for 3d printing! A genuine E3D V6 has absolutely nothing to do with a clone!
@@YouMakeTech will do, u should get a commission check, because u just sold a genuine v6 hotend. Thanks again. But I still wouldn't mind a mount for a stock one. I have other printers.
Yes, you have to change some settings: thermistor type, steps per mm for the extruder etc. You can find the list of changes I had to make at the bottom of this page: www.youmaketech.com/e3d-v6-bmg-direct-drive-on-ender-3/
Pourquoi est-ce qu'il y a un bout de tube bowden entre le direct drive et le hotend ? Pourquoi est-ce que tout le tube de guidage n'est pas tout simplement en métal ?
Parce que le PTFE a un coefficient de friction inferieur à celui du métal, même lubrifié, donc c'est mieux. Le tube PTFE guide le filament entre la sorties de l'extrudeur et la hotend. Mais dans ce design, le PTFE n'est pas en contact avec la buse, si bien qu'il ne s'use pas ni ne dégage de fumées nocives
To use my files, you need to use Marlin 2.0.9.3 source code. If you want to use a more recent version of Marlin, you will need to start from the configuration files from Marlin and include my changes. To see the changes I made you can use Windiff and compare .h files with .DEFAULT files in github.com/YouMakeTech/Marlin-2.0.x_config .Hope this helps
Hi, with this mod, the build volume is reduced from 235x235x250 mm to 230x230x250 mm. This is because the E3D V6 hotend is bigger than the stock hotend and is thus shifted a bit forward and to the right. Note that the 235x235 mm is the dimension of the bed. The Ender 3 specification for the build volume is actually 220x220x250 mm.
no, it's possible to use the stock motor. The pancake motor makes the printhead lighter and more compact which is beneficial when using high accelerations
Unfortunately, the mount does not improve retractions. I never managed to get perfect retractions with Marlin. Only since I installed Klipper, I have clean retractions thanks to pressure advance + high acceleration
Try this to improve retractions: In klipper: max accel 3000, pressure advance 0.04. And in your slicer: Retraction distance 1mm and retraction speed 50mm/s
hey btw your stuff is kinda borked, your link in the description leads to a Bowden variant, then the STLs that links to go to the DD version, then the STLs link to the direct-drive versions page, also the page lists needing the Bowden adaptor for the BMG despite being direct drive Also, on a more personal note, A more in-depth assembly guide would be appreciated if you are now adding a pay barrier, and not to be too harsh on you, but it does feel a touch scummy to add a pay barrier upon moving to a new site, even more so as it seems to be a site which offers the option to provide files for free, especially when your guide is fairly lacking and your links often go to the incorrect location.
Hey, there are 2 versions, both of them are direct drives because the motor is mounted on the printhead. The original: www.youmaketech.com/bmg-e3d-v6-direct-drive-for-ender-3-pro-v2-cr10/ and the "SpeedDrive" version: www.youmaketech.com/bmg-e3d-v6-speeddrive-for-ender-3/ . Both of them are vey similar in terms of performance but are designed with slightly different design goals. The original version has the E3D V6 connected directly at the output of the BondTech BMG using the E3D V6 groove mount and therefore does not need the "Bowden" adapter. The assembly is relatively straightforward as can be seen at the beginning of this video but you are right: an assembly manual would make things even easier.
I moved to Cults for 2 reasons: 1) Thingiverse has many recurring bugs and is no longer maintained. Thingiverse is "free" and we get what we pay for. We can't really complain because we don't pay anything! 2) Cults offer the possibility to sell designs. My intent has never been to give away my designs for free. On Thingiverse, my designs were paid by donations of a couple of generous contributors who like the value I provide and want to support me. On Cults, everybody pays a small fee to contribute to the cost of development and to support the designer. I like the pricing of Cults because it is transparent and fair.
Regarding your last point: I personally don't see $5 as a price barrier. I think everybody who can afford a 3d printer can afford to pay $5. And it is not money wasted: 1$ goes to Cult who can pay a team of people to maintain the website and make it the best place to download 3d models over time. 4$ goes to me to cover some of the cost of running a RUclips channel and continue providing great 3d designs. Making great 3d designs takes weeks of development, testing and trial & error. Most people (me included) cannot do this at a loss for extended period of time. And I think I provide far more value than the $4 I ask for.: dedicated web page for each design, with firmware downloads for Klipper and Marlin, Bill of Materials, links to products, customer support, vibration measurements for Klipper, test & tutorial videos on RUclips.
@@YouMakeTech in hindsight a barrier was a poor choice of wording, my main complaint in the price point was that links went to the incorrect places but it appears you have since corrected this which is appreciated, the only other thing I could think of that this upgrade could benefit from to further justify the price for the files is an in depth guide either in writing on the blog page for the upgrade or as its own video, while a video may be more helpful a written one with pictures would likely be easier to maintain with any modifications which may occur And I would like to apologize if I sounded combative with my initial comment, I do believe that projects can warrant a small fee for the end user, my main gripe was that as of my writing there were a few significant mistakes(primarily with the incorrect links) which I can live with in a free project, but in a paid one feel unacceptable, because, as you said, you get what you pay for
French god damit, I am German! I can not stand your accent! Good video though =) On question though. Right now I use a PTFE tube all the way up to the nozzle (it is better if you print PLA and PETG to use a PTFE tube in my opinion). But I do not have any way to prevent the tube inside from pushing upwards. How can I solve that problem ? Right now the PTFE tube is slightly longer and I push on it to create a seal with the heater block when screwing it in. But this solution is not comftable.
We have been Lied to 🤔 Bondtech Dual gear extruder is in Real Life : Bad News. Their gears are eccentric, the dual drive gears have a V poor mesh and their piss poor needle bearings wiggle all over the place Simple venerable Mk8 extruder simply makes better extrusion flows... and consequently prints. BUT Creality has so Eff'd up the Mk8 design that it uses on it's products. that now Many view this extruder design as Bad. When in reality it's Creality that 's too cheap to be believed .. Bad! I'm appalled by all the Nifty DIY /Advanced Extruders that Unbelievably... Rely /Reuse/Recycle the Crap Quality Bondtech dual drive gear parts. No fools quite like 3d Printer fools ...it seems. Shame on Us.
You deleted your thingiverse files and now you are chargin 5 euros for the files. GL with that. There are many adaptors on there and Im not gonna pay you 5 euros for it.
Yes I did. Thingiverse is broken and no longer maintained. Search is broken, counters are broken, download all files is broken. No support, no update. Thingiverse is "free" and does not make money therefore we get what we pay for... I no longer want to contribute to that by bringing traffic there. I don't want to store files and information on unsecured and unmaintained servers, with no humans to talk to. I contacted their support twice and never got a reply... Regarding the 2nd point: I decided to not give away my designs for free and ask people to contribute a bit to the cost of development. It take weeks of development and tests to create a good design. I think it is fair. I don't see why I should release something free to others at a cost to me. I have absolutely no problem if you prefer a free alternative. You are free. But let me ask: what is wrong with paying a small contribution to support a channel or a maker? I mean do you want the entire world to be financed by ads?! Do you want everything "free" and have hidden cost everywhere? GL with that
@@YouMakeTechIf thingiverse doesnt work for you there are more platforms. I would be more than happy to contribute something to you for something digital(stl) after printing it and seeing if it works. Giving 5 euros for something that might not work and is something "copy pasteable" is not for me
This is a direct drive like no others. It has been designed with very specific requirements. For example: it is non adjustable to simplify maintenance, the PTFE tube is only 37 mm long to get very responsive extrusion, cable management is included, the motor is perpendicular to the X axis to absorb vibrations due to retractions... It is very rigid to allow high accelerations in Klipper. See more details at www.youmaketech.com/bmg-e3d-v6-direct-drive-for-ender-3-pro-v2-cr10/ . It has been designed after having tried dozen other designs and improved based on this experience. If you plan to upgrade your Ender 3 with E3D V6 + Bondtech BMG + BLTouch, you should definitely try it. Just download it and try, if you are not 100% satisfied, I give your money back.
Thanks for clarifying your concerns. They are valid. I added a 30 day money back guarantee to all my 3d files on Cults: "100% secure payment with PayPal or Credit Card When you place an order, you will receive a full working version. If you are not satisfied with the product, then let me know by within 30 calendar days of purchase, and I will give you a full refund." Hope this addresses your concerns and I am looking forward to counting you as a customer and supporter!
![[Устарело] Гайд по доработке Ender-3/CR-10/Aquila](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ozurs525QfU/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Устарело] Гайд по доработке Ender-3/CR-10/Aquila](/img/tr.png)
Please hit the like button if you find this video helpful as a token of appreciation for all the effort it took to make this video and also so that this video can spread to more people. Thanks for your support!
This is the advice that i needed to make the shift from reversed Bowden tube into a direct drive setup. I already had purchased the E3D V6 hotend and a BMG extruder last year. So by the sound of the words “best upgrade i’ve ever made “ i will do exactly that.
Thanks for sharing your expertise!
Just wanted to say thanks for the design. Finished building this a few weeks back using some clone parts I had kicking around and finally fitted it today (also installed Klipper last week, oddly enough). It's running on a dual Z modded Ender 3 v2 clone, so the whole thing is about as budget as it gets.
Only run a couple of leveling prints so far while I dial in Z and get things squared away before tuning properly and I'm already liking the responsiveness.
@YouMakeTech - Just swung by to update. After a couple of teething problems I've got this printing reliably now, excellent piece of work. Thanks for taking the time to design and upload the modification.
Thank You so much! You have the best project for Ender 3 and BMG+E3D V6.
thank you for this. i was reading and messing with hero me adapters for a long time before i realized i needed a whole other gantry adapter from a partner website they link. this is exactly what i was looking for without all the complexity. also great suggestion on the pancake stepper, that is something i didnt think to do and will certainly have to order.
Thanks for your comment. Glad the video was helpful. I come from the Hero Me too but wanted something simpler and ended up designing my own! Hopefully you will enjoy the simplicity and performance of this direct drive!
Amazing job!
I would greatly appreciate a video detailing the firmware download and configuration changes. I can't make this work to save my life.
Yes, it is on my plan. I thought the topic was already covered by other channels...
Great video!!!
Good job. I have a vulcano block, do you have any solution with nozzle cooling.?
Yes, I use this: www.printables.com/model/334404-bmg-e3d-volcano-direct-drive-for-creality-ender-3p
Looks great, but doesn't appear to support the Volcano version :( ?? Need to be able to adjust part cooling fan height.
Thanks for your comment. I am working on a Volcano version. It will be available shortly. It is not adjustable on purpose to simplify maintenance and maximize accuracy / reapeatability (no change in airflow / z-offset even when completly disassembling/re-installing everything!)
Here we go, the Volcano version is here! cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/bmg-e3d-volcano-direct-drive-for-creality-ender-3-pro-v2-cr-10
Do you have sponsored links? You've kinda sold me with the data points!
Years after, I still think this is a must have upgrade. You can find some information about my setup + sponsored links here: www.youmaketech.com/bmg-e3d-v6-direct-drive-for-ender-3-pro-v2-cr10/
what a great video, so much so I have got my ender 3 pro printing the same set up. One thing I have noticed though, is that I also chose the same pancake stepper as in your video, but I have noticed that it is buzzing/vibrating. please can you help? ( I am running Klipper as apposed to marlin )
almost exactly what I need, but now I have a CR_Touch, not the old Bl touch and its bracket needs to be modified a little.
Will work shortly to adapt the design to be compatible with the CRTouch. Need to find one, they are out of stock almost everywhere
FYI I found a CRTouch on Amazon and will update the design this week such that it becomes compatible with BLTouch & CRTouch. I keep you posted
@@YouMakeTech thank you very very much ^^. Waiting for this and more videos from you.
@@buiphuchau9804 I updated the ABL bracket to be compatible with the CR Touch. You can download the new version (v29) on Cults: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/bmg-e3d-v6-direct-drive-for-creality-ender-3-cr-10
At the bottom of this page ( www.youmaketech.com/bmg-e3d-v6-direct-drive-for-ender-3-pro-v2-cr10/ ), you can see the CR Touch installed with the new bracket. Cheers
@@YouMakeTech I am dowloading now. Thank you very much. ^^.
Very good !
Un grand merci pour cette vidéo très constructive.
3:33 About the graph, you have not tried running the BMG in a bowden setup and only compared the stock to the direct drive setup. Do you think it might have a similar result without a direct drive setup? Also, do you often print using PLA and PLA+? I read that I don't print higher temp filament, an all metal hotend might not be as good as one using PTFE tubing up to the nozzle. What are yout thoughts on that? Thanks for your good work.
In the video, I compare the extrusion performance between the Creality direct drive and the BMG/E3D V6 direct drive. I expect a bowden setup to be worse than a direct drive when it comes to extrusion force/non bending of the filament. I print mostly with Sunlu PLA+. I read that too, that all metal hotend are not good for PLA and result in clogging but I haven't had any clogging yet since I installed the E3D V6! I suspect issues may come from using non genuine heatbreaks. The heatbreak accounts for almost half the price of the E3D V6. A genuine heatbreak is difficult to manufacture and many clones may not meet the quality standards required to ensure troublefree extrusion.
@@YouMakeTech Yes, in my experience is better to use a ptfe tube rather than a not perfect all metal heat break. To work as expected, the inside of the all metal heat break should match the smoothness of a ptfe tube, otherwise you are buying another set of problems. GReat video btw.
Thanks so much for guide! i just want to ask, what to change,if i have the ender 3 printer, not V2/pro? the firmware you listed and guide is for V2
1:07 i though my eye flicker on me LUL
2:09 stop it lol
5:09 stop squeezing the screw driver lol
I have this upgrade and it works great. But my resonance measuring show 2 peaks : 45Hz and 70Hz. You mantioned that you have such a situation on other version. I wonder if it can be coused by print the whole thing in PLA?
I don't think PLA is the issue. When you're measuring the frequencies, take a look at which parts of the printer vibrate the most. Any screws that is not tightened enough can result in a resonance! Also, try to put your printer on a heavy table, put the filament spool at another location, check the tensioning of the belts etc.
Hello, it's a nice design, thanks for sharing it. I have ordered the necessary parts to assemble it and I have downloaded the corresponding files. I would like to know if you have a volcano hotend fanduct. thank you very much, regards!!
I am curious what is the weight of the carriage after doing all those upgrades, compared to the stock one? Do you plan to install a dual Z axis to help support the additiionnal weight by the direct drive?
It adds about 300 grams to the carriage: 75 g for the Bondtech BMG + 220 g for the motor. I have not seen yet the need to install a dual axis but I found this one which looks interesting: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4243512 . To come back to the weight, I don't see it as an issue because the Y axis is heavy anyway: to move on the Y axis requires to move the bed + the part being printed.
Don't you get clogs when printing with PLA and an all-metal hot-end? The Teflon tube in the 'clone' heatbreak is to prevent clogging when printing with PLA right? I mainly print with PLA and I'm not sure if I should use the all-metal one or the one with the teflon tube in it... What is your experience?
I mostly print with PLA and never had a clog with the E3D V6 all metal heatbreak. I believe the V6 clones have a teflon tube in the heatbreak because the surface finish is not good & to reduce the cost. A good heatbreak requires precise machining / tight tolerances / very good surface finish. More info can be found here -> 3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10998/e3d-v6-original-vs-clone .
Why do you upgraded the already upgraded direct drive? What is the difference between this and the previous direct drive upgrade( I have seen your previous video how to move the stock extruder to top of the hot end)
I am constantly trying to improve my Ender 3! I try to show many alternatives (like I did for fan ducts) so you can decide which ones best suit your needs, budget & taste.
The SpeedDrive V1 direct drive shown in my previous video is free and is already an improvement over the stock setup. This setup provides additional benefits due to the use of high end components: Ultra accurate extrusion and retractions => better print quality + faster print speeds are feasible due to higher volumetric flow rate + no maintenance (no need to change the PTFE tube) + higher temperatures are possible thanks to the all-metal hotend. This really pushes the Ender 3 to the next level for people who need it, but it comes at a cost: It almost doubles the price of the Ender 3!
@@YouMakeTech Appart from original partts how this mount compares to the old one regarding use ans reliability?
For this specific set of components (V6 + BMG + BLTouch + 5015 fan), my mount is probably the best you can get for your Ender 3. It includes every lesson I have learned from installing dozen other mounts and fan ducts on my Ender 3. I spent countless hours optimizing it for very specific requirements that differentiate it from the competition: see more details here: www.youmaketech.com/bmg-e3d-v6-direct-drive-for-ender-3-pro-v2-cr10/ . In particular, this setup is much easier to install & service than any other mount I have tested, it makes no trade-offs and maximizes the performance of this set of components. And last but not least, it is fully documented & tested + comes with firmwares / configuration files + assembly videos & manual + print settings (in work) + technical support. Hundreds of people installed it and the feedback was 100% positive!
Hello !
I have a quick question, I own an Ender 3 and I have a SKR Mini E3 v1.2. I see that you share your firmware but I want to know if your Marlin SKR Mini E3 3.0 is compatible with mine v1.2 ?
Btw, thanks for this design !
I don't think my firmware is compatible with v1.2. To build a firmware for v1.2, you need to start from BTT files ( github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/firmware/V1.2/Marlin-2.0.7.2-SKR-mini-E3-V1.2/Marlin ) and make a diff with mines with a tool like Windiff, then include all changes that seem relevant! Good luck!
Great insights!
I have a stock Ender 3 with some printed upgrades. What do I need to order to get this printhead?
BMG Extruder is already in the mail. So which V6 Hotend I need? 1.75mm all metall?
Can you say which fans I need to build exactly the printhead you are using?
Should I print the mount in PETG or PLA?
Thanks for your comment. To get the exact same setup as shown on the video, you need an E3D V6 1.75 mm, 24V Direct Drive, a BondTech BMG extruder (standard version, not mirrored), a 5015 blower fan, three M3x40 mm screws. Optionally, to make the printhead lighter, you can install a NEMA17 pancake stepper motor, 22 or 25 mm high. Also, I use a JST male to female 2 pins connector to connect the 5015 fan so it is easy to disconnect the fan when needed. You may need a stepper motor extension cable if your current cable cannot reach the top of the printer. The print head is 3d printed and available on Cults: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/bmg-e3d-v6-direct-drive-for-creality-ender-3-cr-10 . You also need to flash the firmware. You can find my configuration files & firmware on GitHub: github.com/YouMakeTech/Marlin-2.0.x_config .
I printed my parts in PLA, but PETG should be fine too. Please let me know how it goes! See you soon on YouMakeTech!
@@YouMakeTech I ordered all missing parts yesterday and start printing the groundplate made of PETG. Is not as clean as PLA. I'm asking if I should print it in PLA? Which material is more suitable for this use case?
I thought PETG is more rigid. I used 40% infill for the groundplate and 20% for the fan duct. For the fan duct I need supports when printing in PETG.
Sorry, I'm a beginner in 3D printing so I'm happy if you can answer my questions.
Have a nice weekend!
I haven't tried PTEG so it is hard for me to recommend it. Mine is in PLA, it works fine. The mount is 8mm thick by design to be rigid. All parts are designed to print support free. The fan shround does not have the correct orientation by default. It should be printed with the right side on the build plate. Hope this helps. Please let me know if you have any further question
@@YouMakeTech thanks! What's your infill and the rest of the printsettings with PLA?
This is what I use with Sunlu PLA+: 220 deg C nozzle temperature, 70 deg C build plate temperature, 0.2 mm layer height, 0.4 mm line width, 0.8 mm walls, 0.8 mm top/bottom thickness, 30% infill, initial fan speed of 0% and 100% fan speed at layer 3, supports disabled.
This is great. I bought it and downloaded and printed it. My question what would it take to make an extended fan mount for the V6 volcano hotend? This one is good for the standard. Thank you.
Thank you for downloading this design! I made a version for the Volcano : cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/bmg-e3d-volcano-direct-drive-for-creality-ender-3-pro-v2-cr-10
@@YouMakeTech do I have to buy this one also?
No, just send me an email, I will send you the files. You can find my email in the About section of my RUclips channel. I can't make "sales" in Cults3d like "buy one, get the second free". And you're the first person interested in using the 2 designs. Most people have only one hotend!
You made a version for Ender 3 with the Creality V4.2.7 Board but not for Ender 5. Can I use the Ender 3 files for the Ender 5 with a V4.2.7 Board?
le E3D V6 m’intéresse pour imprimer du Nylon carbone. Je suis en train d'imprimer de l'abs a 250 en full stock et je n'ai pas de problème d'impression .. pour le moment la capricorne tient bon ,-). Avec votre version du merlin, pouvons nous monter à 300° si je prends un E3D V6 ?
Vous touchez les limites du Capricorn! Je crois que le maxi maxi c'est 260! La E3D V6 est limitée à 295 degres à cause du thermistor. Pour monter plus haut, E3D recommende d'installer un thermocouple. Avec ma version de Marlin, vous pouvez monter à 300. Pour monter plus haut, il faut changer HEATER_0_MAXTEMP dans le fichier Configuration.h
@@YouMakeTech cela pourrait etre un sujet interessant. Comment monter en température pour imprimer du Nylon carbon. La resistance semble incroyable et cela offre de réelles ouvertures a l'impression 3d !. Merci de votre réponse et votre partage. Je vais suivre votre chaine ! j'ai trouvé ca, mais ca reste compliqué ... ruclips.net/video/qXUtxt61Ae0/видео.html. Existe t'il des imprimantes pas trop chers qui montent a ces températures ?
I really want to use your BMG direct drive adapter design on ender 3v2 but I only have an inductive sensor type LJ12A3-4-Z/BX-5V diameter 12mm. can you help me to use your bmg direct drive adapter design with a 12mm inductive sensor?
Why do you absolutly want to use an inductive sensor? Why not buying a BLTouch or a clone? For me to update this design to use an inductive sensor would require hours of work + buying an inductive sensor for testing.
The strength of this design is actually a by-product of its very limited compatibility. It is specifically optimized for a set of components. The positions of the ventilator and the ABL sensors are not adjustable. This is done on purpose: to have minimal variation in performance. Always the same airflow, always the same z offset even when I take everything apart for maintenance and reassembly. I can even switch between several firmwares with exactly the same settings! Since using this design, I never had to change the z offset! There are already many (good) designs available on Thingiverse that are highly compatible with multiple ABL hotends / extruders and sensors. But IMO, their high compatibility comes at a price: compromise on performance + variability in performance after each maintenance + time it takes to get everything back in place after each maintenance due to the high number of adjustments.
I've got the same set up for my V2 and the V6 hotend is kind of loose in the BMG. I notified Bondtech and no joke the said to use electrical tape. I bought the parts a couple months ago and just recently had a chance to install or I would have returned both. They are both official parts too. I would expect this from counterfeit parts but not original. Very disappointed in Bondtech. Any ideas on how to fix? Thanks in advance.
Sorry, I don't have a solution. Mine was of impressive quality with a very tight fit. Are you sure your BMG/E3D V6 are 100% genuine parts? There are many counterfeits parts on Amazon, ebay, Banggood etc. Where did you buy your parts? Another subscriber had a similar issue (with a clone BMG) and he built the SpeedDrive version (www.thingiverse.com/thing:5086987 ). The SpeedDrive version uses a small bowdenbtube between the extruder and the hotend and therefore does not require a perfect fit. Good luck!
@@YouMakeTech I got the Bondtech from Printed Solid an Authorized dealer and the hotend from Matter Hackers so you can never be 100% sure but I pretty confident they're legit. thanks for the help. Thats actually kinda defeats the purpose a little don't it?
I'm still knda ticked that the had the guts to recommended electrical tape on a new product. This always happens when you have project with 2 manufactures involved, They each blame the other when there's a problem. LOL
Yes, that's true: never have 2 cooks in the kitchen! So disappointing. Mine are of so good quality and they fit perfectly together... A bad lot maybe. I feel sorry for you
This rather funny I did that trick months back. But with a 3d printed mount and a V6 it worked really well. Now with my triangle labs BMG clone and v6 its a very snug fit
So I have this mount of yours for the volcano v6 and the other v6. Unfortunately I have the Chinese version and they both clogg constantly and I'm tired of messing with it. But I love your mounts. Is there a easy way to modify one of them to keep everything the same but use a stock hotend or a micro swiss?
V6 clones are junk. It is pretty sad because E3D V6 drawings are open source. But the clone manufacturers decided to cut the cost at the wrong places hence clogging... Make sure you use a sock . You can also try to replace the heatbreak by a genuine one. These 2 things alone should solve your clogging issue. Why not simply buying a genuine V6?! A V6 works reliably and is worth 60 euros IMO.You are not the first to ask for the same mount with a BMG + stock hotend. I will see what I can do and let you know
@@YouMakeTech I could get a genuine v6. But I was trying this setup to see if I wanted to go that route. But for now I need to do something. I'm sure it's the heat break because regardless if I have the volcano block or regular block with a sock on both. They both clogg within a few minutes.
The heatbreak in the clones let too much heat go up in the cold zone. It results in the filament melting too early => clogging. The genuine heatbreak is ultra thin to reduce heat transfer. Try a genuine E3d V6. You won't regret it. The genuine V6 is a reliable, high quality and time proven hotend. It has been sold more in the world than any other parts for 3d printing! A genuine E3D V6 has absolutely nothing to do with a clone!
@@YouMakeTech will do, u should get a commission check, because u just sold a genuine v6 hotend. Thanks again. But I still wouldn't mind a mount for a stock one. I have other printers.
Glad you decided to try a genuine E3D V6! Please let me know how it goes!
To use this on a cr10 will i have to make any changes to my firmware ? mine is already set up to use bltouch
Yes, you have to change some settings: thermistor type, steps per mm for the extruder etc. You can find the list of changes I had to make at the bottom of this page: www.youmaketech.com/e3d-v6-bmg-direct-drive-on-ender-3/
@@YouMakeTech Awesome thanks for the info
Do you own flsun super racer?
Pourquoi est-ce qu'il y a un bout de tube bowden entre le direct drive et le hotend ? Pourquoi est-ce que tout le tube de guidage n'est pas tout simplement en métal ?
Parce que le PTFE a un coefficient de friction inferieur à celui du métal, même lubrifié, donc c'est mieux. Le tube PTFE guide le filament entre la sorties de l'extrudeur et la hotend. Mais dans ce design, le PTFE n'est pas en contact avec la buse, si bien qu'il ne s'use pas ni ne dégage de fumées nocives
@@YouMakeTech Merci !
Bonjour auriez-vous des liens pour acheter un Direct Drive pour une Ender 3 Pro aussi ? cela m’intéresse beaucoup merci
Interesting!
Great video. Can it work on ender 3?
Thank you. Yes it can work on an Ender 3
What is your best 3d printer upgrade so far? Please let me know in the comments!
Bmo dragonfly hotend bmg clone, linear rails
@@deathcube2006 Thanks for your comment. I need to give a try to the Dragonfly hotend
better springs for the ender 3 heat bet, and bmg clone
Best upgrade has to be bltouch and a direct drive
you can achieve good results by switching heartbreaks, i am using Slice Engineering Copperhead Heat Break, you dont have to swap hotend
Hello friend!
unable to compile marlin with the specified files. Would you help me?
To use my files, you need to use Marlin 2.0.9.3 source code. If you want to use a more recent version of Marlin, you will need to start from the configuration files from Marlin and include my changes. To see the changes I made you can use Windiff and compare .h files with .DEFAULT files in github.com/YouMakeTech/Marlin-2.0.x_config .Hope this helps
podria compartir los STL de los soportes?? xfa
what is the max speed you get when print with quality with this mod?
150mm/s at 3000mm/s2 accel. You can see my print settings here: www.youmaketech.com/klipper-print-settings/
Hi, does this mod lose any print space on the x and y axis?
Hi, with this mod, the build volume is reduced from 235x235x250 mm to 230x230x250 mm. This is because the E3D V6 hotend is bigger than the stock hotend and is thus shifted a bit forward and to the right. Note that the 235x235 mm is the dimension of the bed. The Ender 3 specification for the build volume is actually 220x220x250 mm.
@@YouMakeTech Alright, thanks!
Love your videos
are you no longer sharing on thingiverse
No, I moved to Cults 3D at the end of last year: cults3d.com/en/users/YouMakeTech
Hello. Its this required pancake motor?
no, it's possible to use the stock motor. The pancake motor makes the printhead lighter and more compact which is beneficial when using high accelerations
@@YouMakeTech thank You. I have step motor LDO-42STH25-1004AC NEMA17. Its god choice?
@@sebiks75 👍
no love for ender3V2??
The Ender 3 V2 is very similar to the Ender 3 Pro. All this information remains valid for the V2.
Does anyone think that he looks exactly like Merlin in Kingsman?
It's me! But don't tell anyone I do 3d printing in my spare time ! 🤣
Keep in mind his config files are set to French for obvious reasons.
Thank you. I have fixed this now. Sorry about that
I have ender 3 v2 and a BMG clone and v6 clone I have a diferentymount I hive de hero me gen 5 mount and my retraction sucks
Unfortunately, the mount does not improve retractions. I never managed to get perfect retractions with Marlin. Only since I installed Klipper, I have clean retractions thanks to pressure advance + high acceleration
@@YouMakeTechI'm using klipper my self no marlin
I don't have pressure advance yet I need to learn about that
Try this to improve retractions: In klipper: max accel 3000, pressure advance 0.04. And in your slicer: Retraction distance 1mm and retraction speed 50mm/s
Pressure advance and accel is what really improved retractions for me
hey btw your stuff is kinda borked, your link in the description leads to a Bowden variant, then the STLs that links to go to the DD version, then the STLs link to the direct-drive versions page, also the page lists needing the Bowden adaptor for the BMG despite being direct drive
Also, on a more personal note, A more in-depth assembly guide would be appreciated if you are now adding a pay barrier, and not to be too harsh on you, but it does feel a touch scummy to add a pay barrier upon moving to a new site, even more so as it seems to be a site which offers the option to provide files for free, especially when your guide is fairly lacking and your links often go to the incorrect location.
Hey, there are 2 versions, both of them are direct drives because the motor is mounted on the printhead. The original: www.youmaketech.com/bmg-e3d-v6-direct-drive-for-ender-3-pro-v2-cr10/ and the "SpeedDrive" version: www.youmaketech.com/bmg-e3d-v6-speeddrive-for-ender-3/ . Both of them are vey similar in terms of performance but are designed with slightly different design goals. The original version has the E3D V6 connected directly at the output of the BondTech BMG using the E3D V6 groove mount and therefore does not need the "Bowden" adapter. The assembly is relatively straightforward as can be seen at the beginning of this video but you are right: an assembly manual would make things even easier.
I moved to Cults for 2 reasons: 1) Thingiverse has many recurring bugs and is no longer maintained. Thingiverse is "free" and we get what we pay for. We can't really complain because we don't pay anything! 2) Cults offer the possibility to sell designs. My intent has never been to give away my designs for free. On Thingiverse, my designs were paid by donations of a couple of generous contributors who like the value I provide and want to support me. On Cults, everybody pays a small fee to contribute to the cost of development and to support the designer. I like the pricing of Cults because it is transparent and fair.
Regarding your last point: I personally don't see $5 as a price barrier. I think everybody who can afford a 3d printer can afford to pay $5. And it is not money wasted: 1$ goes to Cult who can pay a team of people to maintain the website and make it the best place to download 3d models over time. 4$ goes to me to cover some of the cost of running a RUclips channel and continue providing great 3d designs. Making great 3d designs takes weeks of development, testing and trial & error. Most people (me included) cannot do this at a loss for extended period of time. And I think I provide far more value than the $4 I ask for.: dedicated web page for each design, with firmware downloads for Klipper and Marlin, Bill of Materials, links to products, customer support, vibration measurements for Klipper, test & tutorial videos on RUclips.
@@YouMakeTech in hindsight a barrier was a poor choice of wording, my main complaint in the price point was that links went to the incorrect places but it appears you have since corrected this which is appreciated, the only other thing I could think of that this upgrade could benefit from to further justify the price for the files is an in depth guide either in writing on the blog page for the upgrade or as its own video, while a video may be more helpful a written one with pictures would likely be easier to maintain with any modifications which may occur
And I would like to apologize if I sounded combative with my initial comment, I do believe that projects can warrant a small fee for the end user, my main gripe was that as of my writing there were a few significant mistakes(primarily with the incorrect links) which I can live with in a free project, but in a paid one feel unacceptable, because, as you said, you get what you pay for
French god damit, I am German! I can not stand your accent! Good video though =)
On question though. Right now I use a PTFE tube all the way up to the nozzle (it is better if you print PLA and PETG to use a PTFE tube in my opinion). But I do not have any way to prevent the tube inside from pushing upwards. How can I solve that problem ? Right now the PTFE tube is slightly longer and I push on it to create a seal with the heater block when screwing it in. But this solution is not comftable.
We have been Lied to 🤔 Bondtech Dual gear extruder is in Real Life : Bad News.
Their gears are eccentric, the dual drive gears have a V poor mesh and their piss poor needle bearings wiggle all over the place
Simple venerable Mk8 extruder simply makes better extrusion flows... and consequently prints.
BUT Creality has so Eff'd up the Mk8 design that it uses on it's products.
that now Many view this extruder design as Bad.
When in reality it's Creality that 's too cheap to be believed .. Bad!
I'm appalled by all the Nifty DIY /Advanced Extruders that Unbelievably... Rely /Reuse/Recycle the Crap Quality Bondtech dual drive gear parts.
No fools quite like 3d Printer fools ...it seems.
Shame on Us.
L'accent tho 😅
The "french touch" !
You deleted your thingiverse files and now you are chargin 5 euros for the files. GL with that. There are many adaptors on there and Im not gonna pay you 5 euros for it.
Yes I did. Thingiverse is broken and no longer maintained. Search is broken, counters are broken, download all files is broken. No support, no update. Thingiverse is "free" and does not make money therefore we get what we pay for... I no longer want to contribute to that by bringing traffic there. I don't want to store files and information on unsecured and unmaintained servers, with no humans to talk to. I contacted their support twice and never got a reply... Regarding the 2nd point: I decided to not give away my designs for free and ask people to contribute a bit to the cost of development. It take weeks of development and tests to create a good design. I think it is fair. I don't see why I should release something free to others at a cost to me. I have absolutely no problem if you prefer a free alternative. You are free. But let me ask: what is wrong with paying a small contribution to support a channel or a maker? I mean do you want the entire world to be financed by ads?! Do you want everything "free" and have hidden cost everywhere? GL with that
@@YouMakeTechIf thingiverse doesnt work for you there are more platforms. I would be more than happy to contribute something to you for something digital(stl) after printing it and seeing if it works. Giving 5 euros for something that might not work and is something "copy pasteable" is not for me
This is a direct drive like no others. It has been designed with very specific requirements. For example: it is non adjustable to simplify maintenance, the PTFE tube is only 37 mm long to get very responsive extrusion, cable management is included, the motor is perpendicular to the X axis to absorb vibrations due to retractions... It is very rigid to allow high accelerations in Klipper. See more details at www.youmaketech.com/bmg-e3d-v6-direct-drive-for-ender-3-pro-v2-cr10/ . It has been designed after having tried dozen other designs and improved based on this experience. If you plan to upgrade your Ender 3 with E3D V6 + Bondtech BMG + BLTouch, you should definitely try it. Just download it and try, if you are not 100% satisfied, I give your money back.
Thanks for clarifying your concerns. They are valid. I added a 30 day money back guarantee to all my 3d files on Cults: "100% secure payment with PayPal or Credit Card
When you place an order, you will receive a full working version. If you are not satisfied with the product, then let me know by within 30 calendar days of purchase, and I will give you a full refund."
Hope this addresses your concerns and I am looking forward to counting you as a customer and supporter!