How to change a wheel bearing (Don’t Remove the Spindle Hub!) Hyundai Elantra
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- Music: play.google.co...
2003 Hyundai Elantra, front wheel bearing replacement no hydraulic press needed. No helpers needed, a complete DIY job!!
Visit my website creative-mechan...
dude this video helps me A LOT!! Not only did you do a good job showing me the steps, but you introduced me to a tool I can use if I dont have access to a press!
Thanks for the video.
To add a tip for people who dont have a torch and even if you do, throw some type of lubricant on the bearing and spindle. I've used atf, wheel bearing grease, and even at our weld shop we used some "spatter spray"( which isnt even a lubricant but it worked as a lube) in the past and worked well.
I only say this because I destroyed my first bearing due to the lack of lube. Added lube to the next one and it went on easily.
Your video has helped me in more ways than one.
Was able to replace 1997 Hyundai Elantra wheel bearing, just it has a captive rotor. Just pull of the Knuckle and unbolt the Rotor turn over and using a 1" socket punched out the HUB. I let the bearing soak over night with PB Blaster and the Bearing came out pretty easy. I polished the Knuckle bearing raceway and as long as the bearing is straight (+ cold) went in easy.
thanks for posting this video may for a fairly easy install. I reuse the hub after soaking it in METAL RESCUE I had a gallon for a year never used till now I was amazed how it took the rust off with no work require just soaking in the stuff
Nice upload. I did this without the hot and cold treatment, worked out just fine. Very true about finding right cap that fits inner diameter hole, these bearings should go in relatively easy hot cold or room temp, if not, it's crooked and you must realign.
Hi, nice video! I need to replace the bearing on my daughter's 2005 Elantra next week. 2 things I am thinking of doing differently, and I'd like to know if you would caution against: 1: couldn't you just unbolt the caliper bracket only and take all that of as one unit? 2: is there a reason not to re-use the old hub? You mentioned the wear patterns on the splines of the shaft - wouldn't the splines be happier going back to their old, comfortable hub? Thanks for any comments you can share, and thanks again for the clear, concise and helpful video!
Yes
The way he removes the hub in this video, I do not recommend. That was way it was done in the old days on the old cast iron hubs that could take a beating. On these new cars made of recycled soda cans, you are just going to mangle the hub and end up with a vibration that wasn't there before, and will drive you crazy hunting for it.
I would recommend using either a shop press or on car press to press the hub out and back on. Otherwise, just get a new hub to go along with the new bearing. Just results in a much higher quality repair.
thanks for video! I did it! However, you may want to stress that when pressing in hub, the backplate must rest against the inner bearing casing. Otherwise, the hub could push out the inner bearing casing....just like it did to me. I ended up pressing it back in and bearing seems smooth enough so I guess I'm good. Luckily, if I need to do it again I know how thanks to you!
Just had the same problem, Hopefully, the bearing is ok with being pushed back together, seems to be after driving.
Did the same. Definatly worth getting the proper fitment in bearing driver sets to ensure the lip of the inner race is not the only part of the driver touching. Like Mather wiles said the inner race of the bearing can push in and be flush with the casing, which is not how it is supposed to go in. Could damage the bearing but ya I pressed it in anyways and that side is good.
Also make sure u dont press a Hyundai tuscon bearing onto a Hyundai santa fe hub spindle that the online parts places accidentally send. Then the tuscon rotor recessed holes for the 2 bolts that hold it on dont match. The santa fe hub spindle is slightly larger than the tuscon, and I didnt have much of a choice at the time so I slapped her together and drove it for 30k miles. It was unpleasant to listen to right after I put it back together and now it is annoying to the point of tearing back apart.
I, being a dummy, that's right, got the bearing in the knuckle okay and the retaining ring good. Then when I was doing the hub it pushed part 3/8" of the inner bearing out because I used the wrong disc on the inside knuckle. So I reversed the inside disc (to flat side) and carefully pushed the bearing back. When I tightened the axle nut it finished pressing the hub about 1/4". Drove it about 10 miles seems okay.
Awesome tutorial! ! Was going to do the wife's car, now Im definately going to bring it to the garage!! Thanks for saving me from setting her car on fire when I would fail miserably...
Yeah I'm probably gonna do that as well, this looks like it is above my skill level n will cost me a nice amount in proper tools to get the job done.
Thank you! I was able to successfully pull the knuckle off. I could not get the retaining ring off for anything. I'm talking PB blaster, air chisel, drill, etc. I decided at this point to take the whole knuckle to a shop and let them deal with it before I started to destroy the knuckle. It cost more than I wanted, but they ended up removing the retaining ring, separating the old hub and bearing and repressing the new one. He said it was the toughest ring he ever removed. Thanks for saving me a ton of money on everything else though. Next time I may just go to a scrap yard and buy the whole knuckle, hub and bearing assembly together from an '06.
John Michalak same exact story, wow
Flathead screwdriver under on end of the ring and mine came out no problem. If its tight, try pressing the bearing into the hub as the bearing my have pushed up tight against the ring and makes it hard to get out.
Just a tip. If the CV axle splines are slightly burred like u said yours were then get a small triangular file and file the burrs down and the new hub will slide straight on
I'm doing bearings on a newer Elantra but the steps are similar. You gave some useful details that others didn't, saved me some trouble. Thanks for posting.
Thank you so much for this video! Incredible thorough and helpful. I was able to change mine thanks to you taking the time to make this video. Keep up the good work👍
I like that trick you did to remove the Tie Rod. I am definitely going to use that, and some other stuff you did too.
Many Thanks!
Great video everything I needed to know .. first time I ever did a press in bearing was on an 02 maybe 03 Elantra with no special tools so pulled the hub and took it to the Vice luckily I had the right sockets to use , was just a pita had to cut part of the race off the spindle and about 2 hours of beating the bearing outta the hub .. greeting ready to work on my gf’s veloster and this tool will definitely make lite work of the job .. thank you again for the upload :)
Damn! Now I know why I'm being charged $300 for a this job! I've done non-drive axle bearings plenty of times but never on a drive axle. Looks like (even if I wanted to tackle it) tools at Harbor Freight would cost almost as much as the labor at my mechanic's shop. Thanks for the vid bro!
about 100 bucks for the kit...pays for itself..And you get to do the other side
No
No to what?
Thank you god job
Not all cars are like this.
Thanks so much! I have the same car that needs a wheel bearing replaced. This is going to be so nice to have!
Thanks for the video! Very helpful! One question. What type of ratchet are you using when tightening up the axle nut or using the bearing removal tool? Thanks
Thanks for the video. Very good tips, but I have to say this was one of the hardest repairs I've ever done on my 2003 Santa Fe, even more so that switching a clutch on a front wheel drive Toyota. Would not recommend this repair if you don't have tons of patience.
I found a similar bearing press kit on Ebay for $54, so a bit less than Harbor's $100+.
You definitely have to be careful choosing the right adapter plate. I ruined one bearing when I was installing the hub and then had to use a Dremel to cut the race off my new hub, since I had no other way to get it off.
I had problems getting the bearing to press in straight, so I had to use a good size hammer to tap directly on the adapter plate, to keep the bearing straight. I could tell when the bearing straightened out, when the nut became loose on its own. When extreme torque was necessary, I would have to remove the adapter assembly and make sure the adapter was still mounted straight.
I had no problem removing the bearing retaining clips the first time with a medium pair of good needle nose pliers. The second time I had to replace the bearing, the clip would not come out, so I ended up drilling a hole in the clip, to be able to insert a sturdy straight pick inside the hole to get it started, then I was able to work my way around the clip, to remove it. With all the trouble it gave me I might have just cut the clip with my Dremel, if had bought new clips.
I rented the tool you used to remove the hub, but it wasn't doing anything but pushing the CV axle in. Fortunately I had an old slide hammer, axle remover that did the trick.
You will definitely need a good heavy duty extension ratchet. I had an old 3/4" drive, 3 foot long ratchet and even with that, it was hard work pressing the bearings in and out.
$97 on Ebay for 2 new hubs and bearings and then another $40 for the bearing I damaged, plus the $54 kit, so all together it was less than $200. I would have had to pay over $500 for the repair, so I will take the savings.
Thank you very well explained and great topic for some guy like me who thinks he could do this 🤔
Great video ! Is it easier to chance the whole hub instead of just the bearing?
Hi! Can I get information (brand, source, price) your bearing replacement(installation) tool?
I will follow this guide for my 2013 Elantra. Awesome tutorial!
I looked for that awesome ratchet you were using but couldn't find one could you send a link or description on it, please. Enjoyed the video great info.
Wera 05133862001 8002 C Koloss All Inclusive Set with 1/2" Drive, 5Piece www.amazon.com/dp/B005MONJSE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_K8ETA9KAGF9PTZETRN7Y?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Good video and I like that press you used is that for hub bearings? I've always used my big stand up Hydraulic press.
Do you happen to still have a link to the hub adapter tool kit? I know it’s been a several years. Thank you! Great video!
How does the hub puller work? You show the nut in the center pushing against the CV axle. It should just push the CV axle out. How does it pull the hub?
Hi have you ever had to do a bearing on a Tiburon 1997 elantra....? the hub has some bolts and nuts holding the two pieces together and I think the nuts and bolts has to be removed first to get the bearing out and also to replace the wheel lugs, but I can't get the bolts and nuts out and I don't see a youtube video on this specific vehicle.....any ideas??? thanks Frank
Great best practices! Thank you for sharing!
Excellent, excellent video. Very detailed and very helpful. Thank you, looking forward to more content.
The actual name of the Harbor Freight tool used to pull the bearing is by Maddox, Font Wheel Bearing Adapters. The tool used to pull the hub was part of the Maddox, 9 Way 5lbs. Slide Hammer puller set.
It would take like 6 hours to pull that bearing with a slide hammer
The puller you need is part of the slide hammer kit.
Good info thanks. You have wrong battery for ryobi impact you need the larger capacity whuch will last all day.
Hahahahaha, I had been using the lithium battery all morning and it’s was on the charger when I filmed this. I like that the new tools are backwards compatible with old style batteries
It's easy to strip a bearing with special tools worth $$$, it's like paying a mechanic to do the job and more expensive. Please provide a video with simple, basic tools, this way my 12 year old can do it.
No
Do you have a video of cv axle replacement for 2006 hyundai Sonata (passenger side)?
Gr8 quality video, I'm about to try it, Thank you so much!
Heating the knuckle will make the ID smaller. Using dry ice on the knuckle with make the ID larger. The metal shrinks into itself.
What is the tool called you used to remove and reinstall the bearing? I can’t find it on harbor freight
i could not find the hub adapter kit yet it looks vary handy to have at hand
Is it dangerous to re-use the old hub? People recommend using a new one. Mine is free rust and 154 K miles only.
Trying to find a video for 2001 Tiburon. This looks more complex than the others I've watched regarding suspension elements. Tie rod & control arm.. Is this job nearly identical to my Tib?
Nice Video.Helped a lot. Why do you have to remove the sway bar link?
I had to remove it to make it easier, but I guess you could try it with the link on.
How did you get the dust shield on after pressing in the hub? I was under the impression you have to pull the hub out of the bearing/knuckle in order to replace the dust shield.
I watched the video again with sound and found the answer myself.
My passenger side cover rotted completely away and I was waiting for a bearing to go bad before replacing it.
Great video, thanks!!
Yeeaahhh, I'm halfway stuck trying to get the hub off. I've gotten it between 1/8 and 1/4 of the way off and the bolt that presses against the spindle literally stripped out. Seriously considering just buying an entire knuckle/spindle assembly off fleabay and replacing the whole thing. Any suggestions?
Helped me out for sure! Thanks man!
Awesome video man. Saved me $$$. Thanks a lot!
Great video, beats the other videos where they use hydraulic presses or a lot of sledge hammers to get the job done. Q: i messed up the thread on the long bolt used to compress, do you know where to get another one at? you mentioned it was hard to replace.
Grangier I think 🤔 where I got mine
How long it took to replace the wheel bearing assembly?
Is this the same for the 2003 hyundai sonata?
Instead of taking the brake caliper off and then the caliper carrier, you should just take out the carrier bolts and then the whole lot will come off in one go.
Thank you sir
You’re welcome
You also used the bearing tool to install the bearing into the hub assembly yet you drove the spindle into the bearing with the impact wrench possibly damaging the inner race.
I don’t see race
Sorry I meant you didn't use the proper backing plate on the bearing in a race when you install the spindles you just put the cap on the back that's possibly damaging the inner race
Possibly, but not definitely. Been driving that beater for 6 years since this repair
that was a great video, I have a question for you. I have a 2000 hyundai elantra and the front right wheel bearing is pretty bad. I bought a new wheel hub assembly and wheel bearings. Does the wheel bearing have to be pressed in ?
Great video great information! Thanks much
This is probably a dumb question BUT: I did the bearing on the back wheel of my son's Nissan Versa and it was soooo much less complicated. Is it because the Nissan was front wheel drive vs. the Hyundai is front wheel drive?? My other son's Hyundai Accent front wheel bearing needs replacement, but after watching this I'm very intimidated.
Most cars are front wheel drive, and changing a drive bearing is usually harder. That’s why the back is easier,
my question is, I have a vibration while driving but if I'm coasting "no stress" the vibration go away I change mounts about a month a go and still happen so my next option is axle or bearings maybe hub
Sounds like ur CV axle. Bad Wheel bearings would continue to make noise even coasting.
Either way your going to want to change both of them at the same time. These vehicles are impossible to save wheel bearings when pressing out the hub/spindle( autozone called it a hub spindle) I spent 30$ on a new wheel bearing at autozone, and then just reused the hub spindle, but u will have to use a cutoff wheel to take off the inner race of the wheel bearing which will be stuck over the hub spindle. CV axles maybe about 120$ and at that same time I would suggest replacing the cv axle/ transmission seal. It is very easy and cheap to replace and you will have peace of mind knowing you have a new seal with a new cv axle( which is usually recommended when replacing one you replace the seal as well). You will lose some atf fluid and will want to replace that too.... sounds like a lot of stuff but if you do it yourself you'll save over 500$ in labor and have the knowledge and tools to do not just one vehicle but many others.
1. The sway bar was under tension because of the unequal suspension - lowered wheel. Put the jack under the lowered, empty wheel arm, and raise it util it equals the other side. Then the sway bar is not under tension anymore.
2. Pressing out the spindle like that (breaking the bearing) can damage the spindle mating surface.
3. I would not heat up treated steel like that.
4. That CV axle nut didn't come with a washer? Also I think it needs to be a new nut.
Me not care, me make car go, we still drive car 5 years later, car have no issue
I stopped when I got to the hub puller as I thought it was supposed to go all the down to the hub face but I see yours sticks up to. My kit came with a slam hammer too, wonder why? This method looks a lot easier and no banging that hammer
The slide hammer is just another way of doing the same job as the wrench. My hub puller from autozone only hit the lip of the ring on the hub face which sticks up. Went to wrench onnit and the cv axle just pushed out. Ended up taking a 4lb hammer to it on the backside( shock/strut assembly removed) and it came off after about 5 min of medium to light blows tapping around in a circle.
Good job
Thanks for the video. Very detailed.
Where can I get that ridiculous breaker bar socket wrench.
Thanks for not telling us the size of the wrenches needed.
If I have to tell you that…. You probably shouldn’t attempt this job
Good video, thanks!
Thank you!!!
great video. very understanding.
I see R&R has changed a whole lot since last time I changed FWB on my first 1968 Ply. Baracuda. Gonna definitely gonna take to dealer. Wish you could add prices of garage and dealers, would make a well rounded video. Hope I don't sound like a assistant. Just saying. Otherwise Great video. Thanks man!! Not gonna do it in the hot Texas sun 4 sure. Only a idiot would.
Turn the knuckle to give you more room for taking off the ball joint nut. Like when you turned it to put the retaining ring in, so much more room lol
Alexander Cabral when life gives you lemons
it helped me for sure !
The magnetic side of the wheel bearing is to the engine , the backside of the knuckle.
😂. Right below the flux capacitor
@@CreativeMechanic yeah it's for the ABS sensor... but mine didn't have ABS, 2002 GLS, but it has the lines and the little sensor in the knucle, strange?
Maybe not, the new one was the same on either side so the old one was weird? I really need those pliers for the other wheel :-) where did you get them?
what kind of bearing press kit did you use? the prices seem to range from $80.00 - no name chinese to $500.00 - OTC brand
harbour freight never mind
You must be in California. I'm in Ohio and my car is a rusted mess. I got the hub off but the bearing is seized in there. I'm going to have to take it to a machine shop and have it pressed out. What a PITA!!
Bama
Great video thanks
Hey man great video! What was the the long ratchet you used throuout the video called?
wera kollos ratchet hammer... its a bullet proof ratchet
What’s that long ratchet you gots name brand
Wera koloss
How the hell did you put the snap ring on so easily for the life of me I can't the ring to stay on anything
This pliers you using to put the retaining clip ring back on was from Harbor Freight?
Yes sir
@@CreativeMechanic yea I ground them a little so they would fit better they were $3.99 :-)
I came here to see how to change a wheel bearing and left flabbergasted by the lack of rust. Are you sure it is a 13 years old Hyundai?
haha, yes I'm sure the front end of the vehicle has been in a few accidents, so Im guessing these parts were replaced before it got to me.
my 00 elantra is pretty much rust free except the front left fender behind the wheel well,they make their own steel so maybe its formulated differently than other automakers
what's the size of the axle nut..!!??
I think I used 1-1/4 socket,
did anyone have to do an alignment after this job??
Yes
do you get a grinding sound when your baring is going out??
nope.. but as long as your pulling the outer bearing out keep going
Soooooo good
Your hub goes into your bearings so why would they both be cold that makes no sense
The bearings are being driven into an extremely hot hub, there is heat transfer taking place and heating up the frozen bearings. So by the time you get to the hub there is enough temperature difference between the two to give extra clearance
You took the spindle off anyways, what is the point of this click bait
😂 you try completely removing it and driving and pushing the bearing in
thank you sir for a great video on how to not get into a world of shit thanks again
I got my bearing pressed on the hub so that’s wrong ? I see you didn’t do that
I'm essentially pressing the bearing on as well. I'm using a kit from harbor freight because most don't have a hydraulic press at home.
Why do you say “Don’t remove the hun,” and you remove the hub in the video?
Hope you removed the grease on the rotors from your hands before you were done, other then that great job. I like using a press, less work....
You didn't have to take the caliper apart
You do to get the brake dust shield off
@@CreativeMechanic yes I forgot about that.
Fatal Mistake at 57 seconds. It's not Inch Pounds , it's Ft. Pounds.
57 seconds we were taking things apart
No heat
Pb BLASTER
All heat
Wow I replaced a wheel bearing on an f150 4X4.. not nearly this complicated.
You did make difficulty u did extra work that do not need...
......... most people take the hub off so I’m happy
Says the person
who only has a Mexican speed wrench in his toolbox!
? Burn ?
Get a Milwaukee gun and fast charger so worth it! Nice job otherwise
He removed he hub!!!!!
What size axel nut?
I think it was 27 mm but I can’t remember
terrible car design, I just replaced a pressed bearing on my 2009 Elantra. Throw away cars for sure
Snapon wants about $500 for the wheel bearing press tool
Harbor freight
I HOT ASTRO PNEUMATIC WHEEL BEARING PRESS FOR $90 ON AMAZON WORKS GREAT.
um.mm dont you have to bleed brakes if remove calipers roters brakes .....full in fo please your hand was in front of alot of parts i believe u called the rotoers caliperes at one point..so do we not have to keeo air out calip[ers brakelines bleed brakes for caleprer rotores bearings????
never took any brake lines off, so as long as the system stays closed, no need to bleed air.
Lol
Yes unless you put in air (compressing caliper piston) none we have be removed so no need to bleed
DITTO!!
140-160 INCH pounds??? Ru kidding me?
Dude that looks like a pain in the balls. You need like $500 in equipment
jober
?? What ??
Looks like you removed the hub lol
It comes out
0:40 140-160 inch lbs.... I call bullshit
I called your mom