Love your videos. What I like is that you guys do not pretend to be top notch mechanics but you do cover all the basics of getting a car running. I will for sure keep following you guys.
Just found this site, and as a semi-retired body man/mechanic/shop owner, I can relate to this type of endevor. I subscribed and look forward to upcoming vids. BTW, I own a 2023 Charger RT Daytona. Not bragging ( much!), just say'n. I'm 69 and live just walking distance from Northeast Philadelphia, PA. Stay focused and power through the tough times.
The usual way water gets into the trans is through the radiator if the trans cooler in the bottom rusts out. So, this is not a defect in the trans itself. Also, check that the carb AT shift lever is not in a pushed back position. Also, there are two band adjustments and one of them can be done without dropping the trans pan since it is on the side of the case.
"23" is the hard top , "29" is the special roof, in this case the fixed window SE style. What amazes me is that a 318 was put in place of a 400. But a 73 uses a different K member for small blocks and big blocks. So either they modified the K member, switched K members to a small block version, or used some kind of conversion motor mounts that, as far as I know don't exist.
Wow, are you clueless! It's basically the same k- frame. You just have to use the proper motor mounts. I think on big block motors the mounts might have to be swapped from one side to the other though. Try to believe me because I have done it in the past. The last time I did this, I put a 440 in place of a 360 on a 79 Dodge Magnum, and the only change I had to do was switch the oil pan from a c- body pan to a b-body pan on the 440. And you must be making the mistake of thinking about the slant 6 k-frame. That's the k- frame swap people think they have to do but really it's just the mounting on the driver side of the k- frame that needs to be modified.
@@mr.b2107 I'm just going by the Mopar Bible. 72 and older small block and big block K member is the same in B bodies. But 73 to 79, or 81 if you count R body sedans, the small block and big block K members are different. You can see the difference. There are plenty of pictures out there showing the difference. But you can HORSE a big block in a small block car but the engine will be crooked. I will keep an open mind about what you said about swapping the motor mounts (spool type of course) side to side to make it fit. Big block K members go for about 800 dollars around here. Small block K members go for around 200 rust free. Also, I think a C body pan will fit in a B body car, but not the other way around. The C body pan is used in A bodies sometime when converting the to big blocks. A c body needs a pan with a big notch for the steering arm or idler arm.. I forget which. I know I can only turn my 68 300 one way since I used the wrong pan. I was clueless that day.
Great content! Listen, if you've ever watched Sleeperdude 's or Polebarn Garage's channel you'd see that, yes indeed Rock Auto does have a great selection of parts but their parts numbers are wrong on many obscure parts and their brake parts for a lot of 60-70s cars are never correct. I've had better experiences with O Rileys but having them ordering my parts. That way I don't lose money if the parts are wrong. Keep up the great videos!
The weak spot of the small block Mopar of this era is the timing cover. Water passes through it. The passages may rot out and leak water into the engine or on the ground. If it leaks on to the ground it is easy to discover, but not if it leaks into the engine.
I have had many many small block mopars and have Never had that problem of coolant leaking inside of the motor from the timing cover. To me that point you made, really was not worth being made. I have even never heard of that.
@@mr.b2107 It is a big problem. I had one leak in the engine and a different one leak to the outside. The early iron timing covers don't have the problem. Just the aluminum timing cover cars (all mine). The point where aluminum meets iron ( cover meets block) is more prone to galvanic action because of dissimilar metals. But the timing cover to water pump is aluminum to aluminum so it should be less eaten away. The reason people are looking for reproduction timing covers is because of water passage rot and leaks. Welding rod to fill in the eaten up material the machining it flat again is part of the Mopar man's burden. Oh, both my rotted timing covers were used on cars with the correct antifreeze. But they were the original covers and were 30 years old when they leaked. Oh, the one that leaked inside (71 Fury 360) also showed corrosion to the outside, and the one that leaked outside (73 340) also showed corrosion to the inside. So, I replaced rather than have them welded and repaired.
You should have a 904 or a 727 trans. Appears you have water in your trans. Check for any metal grit or shavings in the pan. Your reverse gear might be toast.
You did a good job cleaning it up and on the wheels. I have experience with those same wheels. Can I ask what size tires you got for the front and back? Those prices were better than I expected. When you go to Pep Boys , the quote a low price but that price is conditional on you getting mounting and balancing at a marked up price.
@@TnTcreationz I would have gone taller on the fronts. I like 225 70 and 235 70 on my car but those are 15 inch wheels. I have some 14x6 and 215 75 14 is pretty easy to find still. 235 70 14 is rather hard to find.
If you're still getting water in the trans, The radiator tank must have a leak. Changing the trans will just result in the same condition in the new one. You need a radiator.
Using that brake booster and master cylinder was genius. I would have done the same thing.
Love your videos. What I like is that you guys do not pretend to be top notch mechanics but you do cover all the basics of getting a car running. I will for sure keep following you guys.
Just found this site, and as a semi-retired body man/mechanic/shop owner, I can relate to this type of endevor. I subscribed and look forward to upcoming vids. BTW, I own a 2023 Charger RT Daytona. Not bragging ( much!), just say'n. I'm 69 and live just walking distance from Northeast Philadelphia, PA. Stay focused and power through the tough times.
The usual way water gets into the trans is through the radiator if the trans cooler in the bottom rusts out. So, this is not a defect in the trans itself.
Also, check that the carb AT shift lever is not in a pushed back position.
Also, there are two band adjustments and one of them can be done without dropping the trans pan since it is on the side of the case.
Good progress, buys. I have a 73 Charger Rallye so I can relate.
rock auto guys there's a wait but never had a problem getting parts from them
yes and you get the fridge magnets!!!
I got a collection of them
"23" is the hard top , "29" is the special roof, in this case the fixed window SE style.
What amazes me is that a 318 was put in place of a 400. But a 73 uses a different K member for small blocks and big blocks. So either they modified the K member, switched K members to a small block version, or used some kind of conversion motor mounts that, as far as I know don't exist.
Wow, are you clueless! It's basically the same k- frame. You just have to use the proper motor mounts. I think on big block motors the mounts might have to be swapped from one side to the other though.
Try to believe me because I have done it in the past.
The last time I did this, I put a 440 in place of a 360 on a 79 Dodge Magnum, and the only change I had to do was switch the oil pan from a c- body pan to a b-body pan on the 440.
And you must be making the mistake of thinking about the slant 6 k-frame. That's the k- frame swap people think they have to do but really it's just the mounting on the driver side of the k- frame that needs to be modified.
@@mr.b2107 I'm just going by the Mopar Bible. 72 and older small block and big block K member is the same in B bodies. But 73 to 79, or 81 if you count R body sedans, the small block and big block K members are different. You can see the difference. There are plenty of pictures out there showing the difference. But you can HORSE a big block in a small block car but the engine will be crooked.
I will keep an open mind about what you said about swapping the motor mounts (spool type of course) side to side to make it fit.
Big block K members go for about 800 dollars around here. Small block K members go for around 200 rust free.
Also, I think a C body pan will fit in a B body car, but not the other way around. The C body pan is used in A bodies sometime when converting the to big blocks. A c body needs a pan with a big notch for the steering arm or idler arm.. I forget which. I know I can only turn my 68 300 one way since I used the wrong pan. I was clueless that day.
Great content! Listen, if you've ever watched Sleeperdude 's or Polebarn Garage's channel you'd see that, yes indeed Rock Auto does have a great selection of parts but their parts numbers are wrong on many obscure parts and their brake parts for a lot of 60-70s cars are never correct. I've had better experiences with O Rileys but having them ordering my parts. That way I don't lose money if the parts are wrong. Keep up the great videos!
Great video lads. Really enjoyed it. Subscribed.
The weak spot of the small block Mopar of this era is the timing cover. Water passes through it. The passages may rot out and leak water into the engine or on the ground. If it leaks on to the ground it is easy to discover, but not if it leaks into the engine.
I have had many many small block mopars and have Never had that problem of coolant leaking inside of the motor from the timing cover. To me that point you made, really was not worth being made. I have even never heard of that.
@@mr.b2107 It is a big problem. I had one leak in the engine and a different one leak to the outside. The early iron timing covers don't have the problem. Just the aluminum timing cover cars (all mine).
The point where aluminum meets iron ( cover meets block) is more prone to galvanic action because of dissimilar metals. But the timing cover to water pump is aluminum to aluminum so it should be less eaten away.
The reason people are looking for reproduction timing covers is because of water passage rot and leaks. Welding rod to fill in the eaten up material the machining it flat again is part of the Mopar man's burden.
Oh, both my rotted timing covers were used on cars with the correct antifreeze. But they were the original covers and were 30 years old when they leaked. Oh, the one that leaked inside (71 Fury 360) also showed corrosion to the outside, and the one that leaked outside (73 340) also showed corrosion to the inside. So, I replaced rather than have them welded and repaired.
You should have a 904 or a 727 trans. Appears you have water in your trans. Check for any metal grit or shavings in the pan. Your reverse gear might be toast.
You did a good job cleaning it up and on the wheels. I have experience with those same wheels. Can I ask what size tires you got for the front and back? Those prices were better than I expected. When you go to Pep Boys , the quote a low price but that price is conditional on you getting mounting and balancing at a marked up price.
The fronts are 205/70r14 and the rears are 225/70r14
@@TnTcreationz I would have gone taller on the fronts. I like 225 70 and 235 70 on my car but those are 15 inch wheels. I have some 14x6 and 215 75 14 is pretty easy to find still. 235 70 14 is rather hard to find.
If you're still getting water in the trans, The radiator tank must have a leak. Changing the trans will just result in the same condition in the new one. You need a radiator.
The timeing needs turned the other direction
Slowly but surely u can fix that charger again. or maybe restore it to its former glory I guess??
That a car
Talk to much!
too