That's a nice cover crop mix. Brassicas like constant wet soil. I live in Pittsburgh, PA. It rains here all the time. I like growing Hairy Vetch. Temperatures have dropped and it is showing itself again. I love cover crops that return. I also hav Alfalfa planted. There are just a (5) more days left to plant it. Barley does good in wet soil.
@@roseco581 I planted LOTS of Crimson in July and early August. I sowed it around all my featured seeds like Cauliflower and Brussels. I sowed it on the (4) corners of Rock Wool and Root Riot. I HAD a lot of Dutch White Clover until I let Creeping Charlie take it over. Creeping Charlie is great for my roses so is clover. I just came in from planting (170) Daffodil and yellow Crocus bulb. I planted it into Sunn Hemp that I got from Hoss tools in GA and Johnny's radish.and Mighty Mustard. Alfalfa is over where I am making a new rose garden. I just sowed Graffiti and Snowball Cauliflower that Hoss mentioned in his 2" this morning.
Dude, awesome work, love the editing in the first half, it was awesome!!! got a little dizzy in the second half but the content was spot on! awesome comparison and you should be able to enjoy up coming hunts sitting over them lush green carpets! cant wait to see the upcoming hunt videos!! thanks again for the great content!
outofcontrol thanks, sorry about all the dizziness. A lot of these plots are nighttime or late afternoon food sources. I have most of my stands in the cover to catch the deer hopefully walking to the food plots and so I can exit the stands without spooking the deer hopefully.
Good for you opinions are like a---- everybody has one I can’t get farm equipment to my food plot so no till is the way I go did real good last season with winter rye not rye grass adding 1 ton of Lyme to soil raising the p h then fertilizer & broadcasting seed with the earthway2750 didn’t have to spray cause was sept when we put in the plot but pretty sure won’t be the case this year gonna try buckwheat for spring time then come sept going to put in a fall/winter plot enjoy your videos keep them coming
Ty so much for your quick response I’m also going to be broadcasting switchgrass for screening purposes I was told I could frost seed so long as soil is exposed for good germanation and before spring green up to spray simizine as a pre emergence to weeds your thoughts
We tried planting switchgrass in a small area. We sprayed an area 2 times throughout the summer. The ground was completely bare, everything was dead when we seeded in early September. By October it looked good like a lawn coming in almost. The following spring which was this past spring. I over seeded it again, we sprayed 1 time in mid May before the switchgrass grows. It ended up being a stand of about 80% foxtail and other grasses and about 10-20% switchgrass. I thought it was all switchgrass until the foxtail went to seed in around August. LOL I am going to try another year of frost seeding and spraying in May before the switchgrass germinates. HOPEFULLY it works, I have had good luck no-tilling Brassicas but not switchgrass.
Unfortunately no. If your going to no till plant you need to spray to have any kind of success. If you can’t or don’t want to spray your going to need to till to have good results. If you don’t have equipment like disc or rototiller for a tractor it’s going to be hard to till an area by hand. That’s why the no till method works great for people without all that equipment.
You can use a special attachment for the tractor that crushes the stems of the plants and they die without roundup. It looks like a roller with ribs on it.
John Weir that’s called a crimper and the only way to get a complete kill is when using cover crops like winter wheat or oats etc. Grant woods on Growing Deer uses the method called the Buffalo System where drills in winter wheat into his beans in the fall before leaf drop. And in the spring he drills his soybeans into the standing wheat right before the wheat hits maturity, then crimps the wheat down and is left with organic planted soybeans. You need a cover crop like wheat that grows rapidly and suppresses weeds and will eventually die out anyway for this method to work good. I highly doubt it’s going to work by crushing down grass and weeds with the crimper, it will come back eventually. You will only stunt it a little like mowing.
mow right before they seed out, mow again about 4-6 days later. stresses them out and kills them. plant annuals and keep them planted there if youre going to use it. you can crimp kill annuals. living roots in the ground for as long as possible is best to feed the soil biology
This is a really good video and comparison. I’ve been tilling my Brassica food plots and not having great luck . Honey Hole has done great for me in the past but the last two years plots have failed I believe from a lack of rain in the first 4 weeks after planting. May try to plant winter wheat or rye there next spring and then cut that back and try your no-till method in early July, I think that would help hold moisture. 2019 is a bust for my Brassicas, thankfully still have some clover/chicory plots for the early bow season. Good work.
I am sorry to hear that, we had one dry stretch in mid July but other than that we have had plenty of rain here in southern WI. You don’t have to wait until next spring to plant the rye. If your Brassica plots aren’t too weedy you could probably broadcast the rye now or sometime in the next month but if they’re really weedy then you could wait Until mid September or early October to plant because the frost will kill off the weeds and the winter rye can germinate and grow in temperatures is low as 34° The rye will continue to grow throughout the fall and early winter if we get enough warm sunny days and then go dormant when it gets cold and if it warms back up it grows again, it’s a pretty amazing food plot saver. And it’s very very attractive to deer in the late fall early winter and then again in the spring when it greens up as soon as the snow melts.
I’m surprised you had trouble most people I’ve spoken with regarding cave&rock switchgrass expressed how easy it was to get it going probably takes about 2 years from time it was planted I deal with north woods whitetail for my seed owner John komp always finds the time to answer your phone calls he is great to deal also you get what you paid for no fillers that’s probably why you had trouble just a guess but ty for getting back to me
Last year I got involved trying to improve the habitat on my land for whitetail deer own approximately 60 acres In upstate ny Catskills region added boxblinds added new trails to travel too& from stand locations hinge cutting mock scrapes 3/4 of an acre foodplot & lastly 2 110 gal waterholes for the deer however bear sometimes 2& 3at a time come to drink & believe it or not bath in them no KIDDING short of shooting them don’t know how to get rid of them & I don’t want to relocate the holes to much work afraid same result only in another location do you have any ideas they are in my opinion dictating my buck/deer movement according to what my cameras have been showing so yes I have quite the situation on my hands lol
Paul Mellone that’s interesting don’t have that bear problem down here. You could try cutting 55 gallon barrels in half. That’s all we have done for waterholes. They are on the small side, but the deer are drinking from them. They only evaporate if they are exposed to a lot of sun. Some of them we haven’t even buried and the deer still drink from them. But if you have bears you should probably dig them in.
@@wisconsinwhitetail9744 there exists the practice of using glyphosate to kill off non gmo crops like oats and wheat prior to harvest, thus assuring a consistent dryness across the crop.
Just a thought, it would be helpful if you described the timeline of lime,fertilizer, seed,etc.... good stuff though. im sticking to no till (i hope) how many pounds of brassicas do u plant / acre? how much area does one brassica plant typically take up?
I didn’t lime or fertilize either of the plots. We have planted stuff there in the past and it grew fine so the ph is ok. 1 Brassica plant if given enough room and grown in the perfect conditions can easily get knee high or taller and it’s main stem with get as big or bigger than your finger. Their leaves can also get over a foot long and sometimes larger. I rarely plant Brassicas straight, I usually mix with beans or winter rye or wheat. But strait Brassicas I believe 4 lbs per half acre is about right.
@@wisconsinwhitetail9744 thanks brother. I have honey hole, fall winter spring, trophy clover and tall tine tubers. Looking to plant honey hole, tubers and fall winter spring for fall. im going no till, sure hope it works.
WW, nice vid. I live in western PA. I have no tilled brassicas a few times over the last couple of years. Last week I planted half my purple top turnip plots no till (mowed, Roundup 2 weeks later, then plant 1 week later) and half after tilling. All plots got roughly 20-20-80 units of fertilizer per acre. In the past, I feel like the no till plots did OK. The germination percentage was just less, so the stand wasn't as thick. Increasing the seeding rate and timing with rain can help this. I will let you know how it goes this year.
How would you approach the no till method into an existing stand of clover? Was wanting to switch to brassicas and winter rye this fall. Love the vids thanks for all the info
I haven’t done a planting like that yet. I too was also thinking about converting one of my clover plots into Brassicas this fall. I was thinking about doing a heavy spray because clover is very Glyphosate hardy. Mix double the recommended. Then waiting a week for it to die then plant. It’s fine if some clover comes back with the Brassicas but you don’t want to much, otherwise the brassicas won’t do well. You could even seed some more clover in and it will come back next spring and summer if you want to. I will probably make a video like this later this summer.
No. I would assume that Egyptian wheat would germinate similarly to rye or wheat. Sorghum is a bigger seed and might need more coverage of weeds grass etc.
When you cultipack the weeds then spray the glysophate doesnt kill the seeds when they germinate? I'm guessing the spray Is a post emergent? And if it's in tall grass can u do they same thing?
Yes it’s a post emergent herbicide, it won’t affect the germination at all. Unfortunately no till planting Brassicas Doesn’t work the best in any length of grass. I have tried in a 2 locations this year where there was long and short grass and we didn’t get that good of germination and growth. Those videos will be coming out soon. I think the grass has to high of a stem count for the seeds to reach the soil and germinate. Basically the more grass you have in an area when no tilling the poor germination you will have. But soybeans work great in grass, for beans the more grassy the better because they are supposed to be at least an inch deep but the grass covering them up acts like being covered. Beans, unlike Brassica seeds have more energy built up in the seed and therefore can germinate just fine and push through the sod mat and will grow great.
@@wisconsinwhitetail9744 so starting off the no till for fall plots I could either till and broadcast buckwheat and beans then in the fall broadcast brassicas and all that stuff into the beans and wheat then pack and spray?
Matthew Smith I haven’t tried the buckwheat no till method yet. I will probably try that next year in a few spots. If you want to do the buckwheat no till Planting then I would recommend watching some of Jeff Sturgis’s videos on Whitetail Habitat Solutions on no till planting into buckwheat.
Great clip. Thanks. Have you ever considered using goats to browse through your weed problems? They are really great in cleaning up all weed species and leave done really good fertiliser behind. Just a thought for your consideration. Thanks again.
That’s an interesting suggestion. I am sure that would somewhat work but I don’t think I will be getting any goats LOL. Next year in the weedy wet area I am just going to do no till or plant corn or soybeans so I can control the weeds better.
Yes it should work with grass seed too. Works the best when you are seeding into a recently planted area at least some open soil. This method doesn’t work the best when you are seeding into thick grass or sod.
Would it make that much of a difference if I were to spray before cultipacking reason I’m asking gonna be knocking down winter rye & I was told running over them isn’t good enough cause they would spring up like a jackin the box lol gonna make room for buckwheat in late spring also gonna be using my att to crush rye that’s my cultipacker your thoughts
Works very well, the update video of all my Brassica plots will be coming out in early September, I am working currently on a bean and corn update video.
I maybe would increase a little but don’t get carried away. Brassicas germinate fairly easy. As long as you plant before a lot of rain and you are getting good seed to soil contact when no-tilling you shouldn’t need to increase seeding rate that much. Beware, no tilling into grass doesn’t work the best. You will need to increase seeding rate when no tilling into grass and expect slow growth from the start but it does work and turnout over time. Good luck
Yeah the first we will plowed because a lot of our plots were either overgrown grassy and golden rod areas or small hay fields for years. That was before we knew no till planting methods, we rarely ever plow anymore, if we do till we just spray and disc.
Paul Mellone I am spraying Glyphosate. Post emergent herbicides will not effect germination at all, they kill green growing plants. A pre emergent herbicide like simazine will prevent weeds from germinating. You wouldn’t want to spray that in your food plots.
Paul Mellone if you wanted to do it all in 1 day you should at least wait 30 min. If it’s cloudy and not very hot maybe longer would be better but if you don’t need to do it the same day. a day or two would obviously work too.
When you seeded did you fertilize as well? I know you sprayed. I would have fertilized right after seeding, and then sprayed. Your plot looks really nice.
I didn’t fertilize right after spraying. I fertilized when the plants are a few inches tall. I probably should’ve just fertilized right after seeding that’s what I’ll do in the future.
I am spraying generic Glyphosate. Same thing as round up. Glyphosate and round up are post emerging herbicides meaning they only kill plants that are green and growing. The seed is not affected by it at all because it hasn’t germinated yet. Even if we get a ton of rain and the Glyphosate gets into the soil it still shouldn’t affect the seed germination.
No till and roundup have no place in the same sentence....read a fucking book....it leaves no residue.. .my ass. It kills microbes and fungi which is the basis of notill and nature for that matter...#TEAMING WITH MICROBES by jeff lowenfells
That would be my guess too. That plot gets plenty of sunlight and the ph is fine. I know black walnut trees release chemicals into the soil that could be affecting growth as well. This year I have that plot planted in soybeans and they look fine in that portion of the plot. Soybeans are pretty adaptable and can handle shade and drought fairly well unlike brassicas.
I like your video I’ve seen other videos very similar. But I don’t understand you plant the seed first then you knock down the weeds then you spray to kill the weeds doesn’t that hurt the seeds? So the weed killer don’t hurt the seeds just the plant
Correct, glyphosate is a post emergent herbicide meaning it only kills green growing plants. You could soak the seed in it and it won’t effect germination at all.
Wisconsin Whitetail It’s me again Scott. The video was it I’ve watched was by a big hunter his name is Jeff he’s on here a lot. It looks like he sprayed his first then he knocked down he sprayed it three times and then knocked it down and planted seeds but I’m not sure I’m not quite sure at all can you run the order back to me what order to do it
Jeff Sturgis from Whitetail Habitat Solutions? I am pretty sure he sprays after seeding and after crushing it down. He plants into the standing buckwheat. In this particular spot I had a bunch of broadleaf weeds grow in, with good soil exposure I just seeded into the tall weeds, then crushed them down over the seed, and then sprayed. It’s best to do it in that order.
Wisconsin Whitetail Yes there you go Jeff Sturgis I watched a video on it I swear he knocked it down first and then sprayed it and then seated it but I don’t know for sure anymore now I’m getting all mixed up you tell me the correct order
No with my foot but the grasses and that’s all so I already sprayed it but two days ago and it’s just starting to turn yellow I have not put no seeds out yet
Daymian Sires it could be that because that is a lower area. But I do know a lot of our soil is low on potassium. I will be interesting to see if the beans start to turn greener if week get a dry stretch.
@@wisconsinwhitetail9744 - For what it's worth, water content can be tested just by grabbing a clump of soil. Your senses will tell you right away if it's too moist or too dry. ;-) Nitrogen deficiency would show similar "yellowish" tendency...Simple field test. Pee on them! No kidding, I'm being serious. Ideally you should dilute pee with water ~10:1 ratio. Being correct, the leaves will soon take a deep green color. Anyway it should give you a good insight of the case. Notice dead vegetation can release their nitrogen very fast. Or in other words when it's not needed, too early stage of growth. Add to the fact composting activity, of the death organic matter will also consume nitrogen. All put together the plants possibly are depleted. So pee! ;-) Cheers
The no till tends to be healthier for the soil as you aren’t disrupting the soil structure, worms, bacteria, fungi, and everything else in there. You also aren’t creating a hard pan over time. I have been doing the throw and mow or spray, throw and mow for about 4 years now and my soils have improved drastically.
I totally agree that no till is the way to go, it reduces the time it takes to plant, and is better for the soil. At our house where we planted soybeans this year we have a lot of clay. I also no tilled some brassicas but it took a long time for the brassicas to get going. Clay might be an exception to the no till method, because when it’s dry it’s like concrete. We are going to continue to till when we plant our beans and corn but when we plant brassicas, clover and rye that will mainly no till.
I have used Antler Grow in the past and have 2 videos on it. I sprayed our 2 small clover plots Twice this summer and once in the spring. I am probably going to spray some of my Brassica plots but not yet. I don’t want the deer to eat the Brassicas yet. Brassicas can’t handle browse during growth at all. If I spray some Brassicas it will probably be in mid September. I know antler Grow is supposed to make plants sweeter and more palatable to deer but the Brassicas naturally sweeten up after a couple hard frosts and become attractive anyways. I was wondering how long do YOU think antler grow lasts? It says it will last 1-2 months but I was just curious what you think.
@@wisconsinwhitetail9744 in the springtime I would spray it at least once a month in late summer early fall I would do it every other month and then I do it right before deer season one more good time maybe one more time during deer season just to attract the deer a little bit faster I love it Dave from Whitetail obsessions RUclips channel is the one that got me hooked on it I talked to him quite a bit so much that he's coming to Kentucky this season and how on one of my Farms with me if you ever want to venture down to Kentucky and do some hunting let me know I would gladly invite you to come hot Kentucky at my farm you just let me know and I can make it happen
@@wisconsinwhitetail9744 good luck this season for you to and hope I get to see it all on video I'm trying to get into video and all my hunts myself to thinking about starting my own RUclips channel
The no till method is better off for the soil If you keep discing it'll take years to get those nutrients back into your soil I'm sure the deer will appreciate it
I am slowly switching over to more and more no till, it’s just hard to not use the tractor and disc when you have it ready and available. I do agree no till is the way to go, it’s keeps more of the micronutrients and organisms alive, keeps more moisture in and is it’s actually quicker to plant with the no till methods. So it’s a win win.
@@wisconsinwhitetail9744 but you folks have no idea what 10-15 years if glyphosate use may/will do to your soil productivity......leading to marked increases in fertilizer use.
Not all weeds are a blessing, native weeds are easy to kill and control. Non native weeds like water hemp take over and produce literarily millions of seeds per plant.
Not everyone has a nice big peice of equipment to rip stumps out like a bobcat. We tried with our tractor and it couldn’t. We left them sticking out so we would see them and not run them over and damage our disc.
The no till plot looks better than the tilling plot now, but that’s probably because the no till area was full sun and wetter. The tilling plot is a little shaded and on a hill. Not the best comparison, maybe next year I will do a side by side comparison of no till and tilling...same plot...same soil & conditions.
@@wisconsinwhitetail9744 your no till will hold more water because your not breaking up the soil aggregates which absorbs and hold moisture in the ground
The no-till area is a lot wetter soil and near a swamp, the tilled area is on a hillside. That’s why the no-till Plot has passed up the tilled plot in height.
You do not understand the concept of no till farming. The reason for not tilling is to let the micro-biology in the soil the grow undisturbed through the expanding micro root systems and organisms in the soil. The cover crops that are cut and dropped decay into the soil to feed these micro organisms which in turn build healthy compost and soil. by spraying the field with gysophate you are killing the micro biology in the ground and thus eliminating the purpose for the no till system. also running over the ground too much with the machinery compacts the soil. that is why the no till method is usually used by organic farmers..
I understand just fine...yes no till preserves the soil by not killing the organisms and nutrients in the soil. Glyphosate is post emergent herbicide, meaning it kills living plants and WILL NOT affect the soil and the seed that I planted. Meaning it doesn’t affect the germination. Did you even watch the whole video? The plants came up great. The weeds that crushed down act like a cover crop by decomposing and holding in moisture helping the soil and the plants grow better. You do get slower germination than traditional tillage. But in the long-run no till is better for the soil.
Andrew Brosius I think they use cover crops like wheat or oats and use a crimper to kill the crop and no till drill the seed into the seed. The crimper puts kinks in the tall wheat and hopefully kills the cover crop and having a thick mulch layer can suppress weeds.
Why you e.barass yourself? You get the same results only for the first 2 years and after the no till no dig bed produces healthier crops with no added fertilizers. Come back in 2 years when you actually see the difference and done your homework?????
Svetla Nikolova the only person embarrassing themselves is YOU! We have been tilling certain food plots on our property for years and get great results, sometimes better than no till. No till is also harder to fertilize because you can’t till it in. If no till needed no fertilizer the farmers that no till wouldn’t have to fertilize but they still do. 😮
@@wisconsinwhitetail9744 I learn from Dr Elaine Ingham that has 6 titles after her name and has been in the business 40 years or more. How many degrees in soil biology do you have? LOL
Good job with presenting your work and your plots. Have a great season and be safe. Keep us all updated with the progress of your plots.
Thanks, there will be updates of the soybean, corn and Brassica plots coming out in late August or early September just like last year.
That's a nice cover crop mix. Brassicas like constant wet soil. I live in Pittsburgh, PA. It rains here all the time. I like growing Hairy Vetch. Temperatures have dropped and it is showing itself again. I love cover crops that return. I also hav Alfalfa planted. There are just a (5) more days left to plant it. Barley does good in wet soil.
Hmm, I would like to plant Alfafa, doesnt work for me in Southern GA, for perennials we use a combo of Crimson and Durano clover.
@@roseco581 I planted LOTS of Crimson in July and early August. I sowed it around all my featured seeds like Cauliflower and Brussels. I sowed it on the (4) corners of Rock Wool and Root Riot. I HAD a lot of Dutch White Clover until I let Creeping Charlie take it over. Creeping Charlie is great for my roses so is clover. I just came in from planting (170) Daffodil and yellow Crocus bulb. I planted it into Sunn Hemp that I got from Hoss tools in GA and Johnny's radish.and Mighty Mustard. Alfalfa is over where I am making a new rose garden. I just sowed Graffiti and Snowball Cauliflower that Hoss mentioned in his 2" this morning.
Dude, awesome work, love the editing in the first half, it was awesome!!! got a little dizzy in the second half but the content was spot on! awesome comparison and you should be able to enjoy up coming hunts sitting over them lush green carpets! cant wait to see the upcoming hunt videos!!
thanks again for the great content!
outofcontrol thanks, sorry about all the dizziness. A lot of these plots are nighttime or late afternoon food sources. I have most of my stands in the cover to catch the deer hopefully walking to the food plots and so I can exit the stands without spooking the deer hopefully.
You make me wanna go put some more plots out on my property. Good job good video love it
Lol 😂, thanks
Good for you opinions are like a---- everybody has one I can’t get farm equipment to my food plot so no till is the way I go did real good last season with winter rye not rye grass adding 1 ton of Lyme to soil raising the p h then fertilizer & broadcasting seed with the earthway2750 didn’t have to spray cause was sept when we put in the plot but pretty sure won’t be the case this year gonna try buckwheat for spring time then come sept going to put in a fall/winter plot enjoy your videos keep them coming
Ty so much for your quick response I’m also going to be broadcasting switchgrass for screening purposes I was told I could frost seed so long as soil is exposed for good germanation and before spring green up to spray simizine as a pre emergence to weeds your thoughts
We tried planting switchgrass in a small area. We sprayed an area 2 times throughout the summer. The ground was completely bare, everything was dead when we seeded in early September. By October it looked good like a lawn coming in almost. The following spring which was this past spring. I over seeded it again, we sprayed 1 time in mid May before the switchgrass grows. It ended up being a stand of about 80% foxtail and other grasses and about 10-20% switchgrass. I thought it was all switchgrass until the foxtail went to seed in around August. LOL
I am going to try another year of frost seeding and spraying in May before the switchgrass germinates. HOPEFULLY it works, I have had good luck no-tilling Brassicas but not switchgrass.
Great video man. New fan here from northern Michigan!
Thanks, good luck this season. Under a month until opening day here in Wisconsin
Is there any way to get away with NOT spraying herbicides. More and more landowners are saying NO to Roundup.
Unfortunately no. If your going to no till plant you need to spray to have any kind of success. If you can’t or don’t want to spray your going to need to till to have good results. If you don’t have equipment like disc or rototiller for a tractor it’s going to be hard to till an area by hand. That’s why the no till method works great for people without all that equipment.
You can use a special attachment for the tractor that crushes the stems of the plants and they die without roundup. It looks like a roller with ribs on it.
John Weir that’s called a crimper and the only way to get a complete kill is when using cover crops like winter wheat or oats etc. Grant woods on Growing Deer uses the method called the Buffalo System where drills in winter wheat into his beans in the fall before leaf drop. And in the spring he drills his soybeans into the standing wheat right before the wheat hits maturity, then crimps the wheat down and is left with organic planted soybeans. You need a cover crop like wheat that grows rapidly and suppresses weeds and will eventually die out anyway for this method to work good. I highly doubt it’s going to work by crushing down grass and weeds with the crimper, it will come back eventually. You will only stunt it a little like mowing.
mow right before they seed out, mow again about 4-6 days later. stresses them out and kills them. plant annuals and keep them planted there if youre going to use it. you can crimp kill annuals. living roots in the ground for as long as possible is best to feed the soil biology
The field in question is solid timothy grass.
This is a really good video and comparison. I’ve been tilling my Brassica food plots and not having great luck . Honey Hole has done great for me in the past but the last two years plots have failed I believe from a lack of rain in the first 4 weeks after planting. May try to plant winter wheat or rye there next spring and then cut that back and try your no-till method in early July, I think that would help hold moisture.
2019 is a bust for my Brassicas, thankfully still have some clover/chicory plots for the early bow season. Good work.
I am sorry to hear that, we had one dry stretch in mid July but other than that we have had plenty of rain here in southern WI.
You don’t have to wait until next spring to plant the rye. If your Brassica plots aren’t too weedy you could probably broadcast the rye now or sometime in the next month but if they’re really weedy then you could wait Until mid September or early October to plant because the frost will kill off the weeds and the winter rye can germinate and grow in temperatures is low as 34° The rye will continue to grow throughout the fall and early winter if we get enough warm sunny days and then go dormant when it gets cold and if it warms back up it grows again, it’s a pretty amazing food plot saver. And it’s very very attractive to deer in the late fall early winter and then again in the spring when it greens up as soon as the snow melts.
Wisconsin Whitetail Great advice , Thanks !
I’m surprised you had trouble most people I’ve spoken with regarding cave&rock switchgrass expressed how easy it was to get it going probably takes about 2 years from time it was planted I deal with north woods whitetail for my seed owner John komp always finds the time to answer your phone calls he is great to deal also you get what you paid for no fillers that’s probably why you had trouble just a guess but ty for getting back to me
What did you spray after you smashed down the tall plants on your no till to kill the weeds
Glyphosate - Round Up
Great vid dude. I’m really looking forward to getting some plots in this year!
Tyler Tomkins thanks, I am looking forward to planting season as well
What did you spray on the fields?
Glyphosate
@@wisconsinwhitetail9744 thank you. Is that the stuff that turns the field brown?
Last year I got involved trying to improve the habitat on my land for whitetail deer own approximately 60 acres In upstate ny Catskills region added boxblinds added new trails to travel too& from stand locations hinge cutting mock scrapes 3/4 of an acre foodplot & lastly 2 110 gal waterholes for the deer however bear sometimes 2& 3at a time come to drink & believe it or not bath in them no KIDDING short of shooting them don’t know how to get rid of them & I don’t want to relocate the holes to much work afraid same result only in another location do you have any ideas they are in my opinion dictating my buck/deer movement according to what my cameras have been showing so yes I have quite the situation on my hands lol
Paul Mellone that’s interesting don’t have that bear problem down here. You could try cutting 55 gallon barrels in half. That’s all we have done for waterholes. They are on the small side, but the deer are drinking from them. They only evaporate if they are exposed to a lot of sun. Some of them we haven’t even buried and the deer still drink from them. But if you have bears you should probably dig them in.
do you harvest desiccate non g m o with glyphosate?
Not really sure what you mean here?
@@wisconsinwhitetail9744 there exists the practice of using glyphosate to kill off non gmo crops like oats and wheat prior to harvest, thus assuring a consistent dryness across the crop.
Thanks for the info man. I am putting in different food plots now, So i will put this info to work
chris white no problem at all, more videos coming
What did u spray
Glyphosate
Just a thought, it would be helpful if you described the timeline of lime,fertilizer, seed,etc.... good stuff though. im sticking to no till (i hope)
how many pounds of brassicas do u plant / acre? how much area does one brassica plant typically take up?
I didn’t lime or fertilize either of the plots. We have planted stuff there in the past and it grew fine so the ph is ok. 1 Brassica plant if given enough room and grown in the perfect conditions can easily get knee high or taller and it’s main stem with get as big or bigger than your finger. Their leaves can also get over a foot long and sometimes larger. I rarely plant Brassicas straight, I usually mix with beans or winter rye or wheat. But strait Brassicas I believe 4 lbs per half acre is about right.
@@wisconsinwhitetail9744 thanks brother.
I have honey hole, fall winter spring, trophy clover and tall tine tubers. Looking to plant honey hole, tubers and fall winter spring for fall. im going no till, sure hope it works.
WW, nice vid.
I live in western PA. I have no tilled brassicas a few times over the last couple of years. Last week I planted half my purple top turnip plots no till (mowed, Roundup 2 weeks later, then plant 1 week later) and half after tilling. All plots got roughly 20-20-80 units of fertilizer per acre. In the past, I feel like the no till plots did OK. The germination percentage was just less, so the stand wasn't as thick. Increasing the seeding rate and timing with rain can help this. I will let you know how it goes this year.
Sweet sounds good. Good luck this year.
How would you approach the no till method into an existing stand of clover? Was wanting to switch to brassicas and winter rye this fall. Love the vids thanks for all the info
I haven’t done a planting like that yet. I too was also thinking about converting one of my clover plots into Brassicas this fall. I was thinking about doing a heavy spray because clover is very Glyphosate hardy. Mix double the recommended. Then waiting a week for it to die then plant. It’s fine if some clover comes back with the Brassicas but you don’t want to much, otherwise the brassicas won’t do well. You could even seed some more clover in and it will come back next spring and summer if you want to. I will probably make a video like this later this summer.
Thanks for the info - have you tried no till planting with screen seeds like sorghum and Egyptian wheat?
No. I would assume that Egyptian wheat would germinate similarly to rye or wheat. Sorghum is a bigger seed and might need more coverage of weeds grass etc.
When you cultipack the weeds then spray the glysophate doesnt kill the seeds when they germinate? I'm guessing the spray Is a post emergent? And if it's in tall grass can u do they same thing?
Yes it’s a post emergent herbicide, it won’t affect the germination at all.
Unfortunately no till planting Brassicas Doesn’t work the best in any length of grass. I have tried in a 2 locations this year where there was long and short grass and we didn’t get that good of germination and growth. Those videos will be coming out soon. I think the grass has to high of a stem count for the seeds to reach the soil and germinate. Basically the more grass you have in an area when no tilling the poor germination you will have.
But soybeans work great in grass, for beans the more grassy the better because they are supposed to be at least an inch deep but the grass covering them up acts like being covered. Beans, unlike Brassica seeds have more energy built up in the seed and therefore can germinate just fine and push through the sod mat and will grow great.
@@wisconsinwhitetail9744 so starting off the no till for fall plots I could either till and broadcast buckwheat and beans then in the fall broadcast brassicas and all that stuff into the beans and wheat then pack and spray?
Matthew Smith I haven’t tried the buckwheat no till method yet. I will probably try that next year in a few spots.
If you want to do the buckwheat no till Planting then I would recommend watching some of Jeff Sturgis’s videos on Whitetail Habitat Solutions on no till planting into buckwheat.
Great clip. Thanks. Have you ever considered using goats to browse through your weed problems? They are really great in cleaning up all weed species and leave done really good fertiliser behind. Just a thought for your consideration. Thanks again.
That’s an interesting suggestion. I am sure that would somewhat work but I don’t think I will be getting any goats LOL. Next year in the weedy wet area I am just going to do no till or plant corn or soybeans so I can control the weeds better.
So you spread the seed then sprayed the Glyphosate? Will this work with grass seed to you think?
Yes it should work with grass seed too. Works the best when you are seeding into a recently planted area at least some open soil. This method doesn’t work the best when you are seeding into thick grass or sod.
@@wisconsinwhitetail9744 Thanks Bo
Would it make that much of a difference if I were to spray before cultipacking reason I’m asking gonna be knocking down winter rye & I was told running over them isn’t good enough cause they would spring up like a jackin the box lol gonna make room for buckwheat in late spring also gonna be using my att to crush rye that’s my cultipacker your thoughts
Paul Mellone yes that would work too. But I would wait a little bit to let the spray dry before crushing it down.
Here in N.E. Wisconsin I find the deer really like the kale n brassicas overseeded with rye n winter wheat 🌾🦌
NorthWoodzNinja 24/7 I agree, winter rye or wheat is a killer food plot. I almost think they enjoy the rye just as much as the Brassica species.
What do u spray with? 😊
Just generic Glyphosate
Interesting that you broadcast, then cultipacked, then sprayed. Seemed to work well
Works very well, the update video of all my Brassica plots will be coming out in early September, I am working currently on a bean and corn update video.
If your broadcasting brassicas with the no till method, how much seed per acre? I’m assuming your increasing your seeding rate.
I maybe would increase a little but don’t get carried away. Brassicas germinate fairly easy. As long as you plant before a lot of rain and you are getting good seed to soil contact when no-tilling you shouldn’t need to increase seeding rate that much. Beware, no tilling into grass doesn’t work the best. You will need to increase seeding rate when no tilling into grass and expect slow growth from the start but it does work and turnout over time.
Good luck
We started no-till a couple of years ago...and i'm thinking about selling my big harrow!
Yeah the first we will plowed because a lot of our plots were either overgrown grassy and golden rod areas or small hay fields for years. That was before we knew no till planting methods, we rarely ever plow anymore, if we do till we just spray and disc.
Hey my friend what are you spraying & doesn’t it kinda hurt the seed from germinating properly
Paul Mellone I am spraying Glyphosate. Post emergent herbicides will not effect germination at all, they kill green growing plants. A pre emergent herbicide like simazine will prevent weeds from germinating. You wouldn’t want to spray that in your food plots.
What in your opinion is a little bit
Paul Mellone if you wanted to do it all in 1 day you should at least wait 30 min. If it’s cloudy and not very hot maybe longer would be better but if you don’t need to do it the same day. a day or two would obviously work too.
When you seeded did you fertilize as well? I know you sprayed. I would have fertilized right after seeding, and then sprayed. Your plot looks really nice.
I didn’t fertilize right after spraying. I fertilized when the plants are a few inches tall. I probably should’ve just fertilized right after seeding that’s what I’ll do in the future.
Great video. Just curious what are you spraying with on the no till? Roundup I thought had to sit for a week before planting.
I am spraying generic Glyphosate. Same thing as round up. Glyphosate and round up are post emerging herbicides meaning they only kill plants that are green and growing. The seed is not affected by it at all because it hasn’t germinated yet. Even if we get a ton of rain and the Glyphosate gets into the soil it still shouldn’t affect the seed germination.
@@wisconsinwhitetail9744 awesome thank you I will have to try that. Keep the great videos coming.
No till and roundup have no place in the same sentence....read a fucking book....it leaves no residue.. .my ass. It kills microbes and fungi which is the basis of notill and nature for that matter...#TEAMING WITH MICROBES by jeff lowenfells
I think those dry areas are from tree roots reaching under the plot and sucking up moisture.
That would be my guess too. That plot gets plenty of sunlight and the ph is fine. I know black walnut trees release chemicals into the soil that could be affecting growth as well. This year I have that plot planted in soybeans and they look fine in that portion of the plot. Soybeans are pretty adaptable and can handle shade and drought fairly well unlike brassicas.
I like your video I’ve seen other videos very similar. But I don’t understand you plant the seed first then you knock down the weeds then you spray to kill the weeds doesn’t that hurt the seeds? So the weed killer don’t hurt the seeds just the plant
Correct, glyphosate is a post emergent herbicide meaning it only kills green growing plants. You could soak the seed in it and it won’t effect germination at all.
Wisconsin Whitetail It’s me again Scott. The video was it I’ve watched was by a big hunter his name is Jeff he’s on here a lot. It looks like he sprayed his first then he knocked down he sprayed it three times and then knocked it down and planted seeds but I’m not sure I’m not quite sure at all can you run the order back to me what order to do it
Jeff Sturgis from Whitetail Habitat Solutions? I am pretty sure he sprays after seeding and after crushing it down. He plants into the standing buckwheat. In this particular spot I had a bunch of broadleaf weeds grow in, with good soil exposure I just seeded into the tall weeds, then crushed them down over the seed, and then sprayed. It’s best to do it in that order.
Wisconsin Whitetail Yes there you go Jeff Sturgis I watched a video on it I swear he knocked it down first and then sprayed it and then seated it but I don’t know for sure anymore now I’m getting all mixed up you tell me the correct order
No with my foot but the grasses and that’s all so I already sprayed it but two days ago and it’s just starting to turn yellow I have not put no seeds out yet
The yellow coloration in the plants come from water stress witch means the plant is getting to much water or not enough water
Daymian Sires it could be that because that is a lower area. But I do know a lot of our soil is low on potassium. I will be interesting to see if the beans start to turn greener if week get a dry stretch.
@@wisconsinwhitetail9744 -
For what it's worth, water content can be tested just by grabbing a clump of soil. Your senses will tell you right away if it's too moist or too dry. ;-)
Nitrogen deficiency would show similar "yellowish" tendency...Simple field test. Pee on them! No kidding, I'm being serious. Ideally you should dilute pee with water ~10:1 ratio. Being correct, the leaves will soon take a deep green color.
Anyway it should give you a good insight of the case. Notice dead vegetation can release their nitrogen very fast. Or in other words when it's not needed, too early stage of growth.
Add to the fact composting activity, of the death organic matter will also consume nitrogen. All put together the plants possibly are depleted. So pee! ;-)
Cheers
crpth1 thanks for the information. I will have to try out that pee trick next year if the plants look a little yellow. 😉
The no till tends to be healthier for the soil as you aren’t disrupting the soil structure, worms, bacteria, fungi, and everything else in there. You also aren’t creating a hard pan over time. I have been doing the throw and mow or spray, throw and mow for about 4 years now and my soils have improved drastically.
I totally agree that no till is the way to go, it reduces the time it takes to plant, and is better for the soil. At our house where we planted soybeans this year we have a lot of clay. I also no tilled some brassicas but it took a long time for the brassicas to get going. Clay might be an exception to the no till method, because when it’s dry it’s like concrete. We are going to continue to till when we plant our beans and corn but when we plant brassicas, clover and rye that will mainly no till.
Wisconsin Whitetail I plant in clay also. Since going to the “no-till” method, moisture is better and so is soil tilth and moisture retention.
@@wisconsinwhitetail9744 i guess you have "zero" concerns about glyphosate?
Attracting deer is the name of the game but keeping them on your land hoping they become core deer another story do you have the link to the video
ruclips.net/p/PLlr-a2wGAtlIQOWQtUvNmOlAPb5wbVmfF
These are the two videos I have on antler Grow
scientific method nice great video
It would have been an even better comparison if I did the 2 methods in the same plot. Might do that in the future.
Really? what? this is hardly the scientific method, especially because the plots are so distinctly different
Thank you much
cool stuff
Great video thanks
Thank You
Nice video
Thanks
Need to buy you some antler grow and spray on your food plots you'll be amazed on how that works and helps your food plots
I have used Antler Grow in the past and have 2 videos on it. I sprayed our 2 small clover plots Twice this summer and once in the spring. I am probably going to spray some of my Brassica plots but not yet. I don’t want the deer to eat the Brassicas yet. Brassicas can’t handle browse during growth at all. If I spray some Brassicas it will probably be in mid September. I know antler Grow is supposed to make plants sweeter and more palatable to deer but the Brassicas naturally sweeten up after a couple hard frosts and become attractive anyways. I was wondering how long do YOU think antler grow lasts? It says it will last 1-2 months but I was just curious what you think.
@@wisconsinwhitetail9744 in the springtime I would spray it at least once a month in late summer early fall I would do it every other month and then I do it right before deer season one more good time maybe one more time during deer season just to attract the deer a little bit faster I love it Dave from Whitetail obsessions RUclips channel is the one that got me hooked on it I talked to him quite a bit so much that he's coming to Kentucky this season and how on one of my Farms with me if you ever want to venture down to Kentucky and do some hunting let me know I would gladly invite you to come hot Kentucky at my farm you just let me know and I can make it happen
Sweet, sounds like fun. Thanks for the offer, but I will be plenty busy hunting our property and tons of public land this year. Good luck this season!
@@wisconsinwhitetail9744 good luck this season for you to and hope I get to see it all on video I'm trying to get into video and all my hunts myself to thinking about starting my own RUclips channel
Sweet, I know The video quality of my hunts aren’t the best, this year I will be using a better camera, hopefully that will improve the quality.
The no till method is better off for the soil If you keep discing it'll take years to get those nutrients back into your soil I'm sure the deer will appreciate it
I am slowly switching over to more and more no till, it’s just hard to not use the tractor and disc when you have it ready and available. I do agree no till is the way to go, it’s keeps more of the micronutrients and organisms alive, keeps more moisture in and is it’s actually quicker to plant with the no till methods. So it’s a win win.
@@wisconsinwhitetail9744 but you folks have no idea what 10-15 years if glyphosate use may/will do to your soil productivity......leading to marked increases in fertilizer use.
Nice
Thanks
weeds are actully a blessing without their growth tenacity we would have limited organic material.
Not all weeds are a blessing, native weeds are easy to kill and control. Non native weeds like water hemp take over and produce literarily millions of seeds per plant.
Was anyone else immensely frustrated watching him navigate those stumps instead of simply ripping/burning them out?
Not everyone has a nice big peice of equipment to rip stumps out like a bobcat. We tried with our tractor and it couldn’t. We left them sticking out so we would see them and not run them over and damage our disc.
Wisconsin Whitetail Viking stove them with the chainsaw and let them burn out.
Put 46-0-0 and water on it it will pop.
I have fertilized my brassicas in the past when about ankle high with 46-0-0 and it definitely does boost them.
youll eventually see a difference between the 2 methods.
The no till plot looks better than the tilling plot now, but that’s probably because the no till area was full sun and wetter. The tilling plot is a little shaded and on a hill. Not the best comparison, maybe next year I will do a side by side comparison of no till and tilling...same plot...same soil & conditions.
@@wisconsinwhitetail9744 your no till will hold more water because your not breaking up the soil aggregates which absorbs and hold moisture in the ground
The no-till area is a lot wetter soil and near a swamp, the tilled area is on a hillside. That’s why the no-till Plot has passed up the tilled plot in height.
💪👊👍
You do not understand the concept of no till farming. The reason for not tilling is to let the micro-biology in the soil the grow undisturbed through the expanding micro root systems and organisms in the soil. The cover crops that are cut and dropped decay into the soil to feed these micro organisms which in turn build healthy compost and soil. by spraying the field with gysophate you are killing the micro biology in the ground and thus eliminating the purpose for the no till system. also running over the ground too much with the machinery compacts the soil. that is why the no till method is usually used by organic farmers..
I understand just fine...yes no till preserves the soil by not killing the organisms and nutrients in the soil.
Glyphosate is post emergent herbicide, meaning it kills living plants and WILL NOT affect the soil and the seed that I planted. Meaning it doesn’t affect the germination. Did you even watch the whole video? The plants came up great. The weeds that crushed down act like a cover crop by decomposing and holding in moisture helping the soil and the plants grow better. You do get slower germination than traditional tillage. But in the long-run no till is better for the soil.
If no till is used by organic farmers, how are they controlling weeds?
Andrew Brosius I think they use cover crops like wheat or oats and use a crimper to kill the crop and no till drill the seed into the seed. The crimper puts kinks in the tall wheat and hopefully kills the cover crop and having a thick mulch layer can suppress weeds.
@@wisconsinwhitetail9744 that makes sense, at least in theory. Thanks. I will stick with Glyphosate. ;)
Why you e.barass yourself? You get the same results only for the first 2 years and after the no till no dig bed produces healthier crops with no added fertilizers.
Come back in 2 years when you actually see the difference and done your homework?????
Svetla Nikolova the only person embarrassing themselves is YOU! We have been tilling certain food plots on our property for years and get great results, sometimes better than no till. No till is also harder to fertilize because you can’t till it in. If no till needed no fertilizer the farmers that no till wouldn’t have to fertilize but they still do. 😮
@@wisconsinwhitetail9744 I learn from Dr Elaine Ingham that has 6 titles after her name and has been in the business 40 years or more. How many degrees in soil biology do you have? LOL