I enjoyed watching this video. I have a similar defect on my ASM #50. Some light tracing but no pen or pencil marks either. Time to get a steel ball! I liked that technique and watching you do it made all the difference. Best to all.
I would like to see something on removing small water stains from covers. This is one of the most informative channels on this subject. Keep them coming!
Great suggestion! It's a little bit of a more advanced technique since it includes "wet cleaning" either with distilled water or a solution of hydrogen peroxide. I will see what I can do!
Another great video! It's very helpful to see how the "Hot Shot" Method and use of a ball bearing is used to remove a dent from the front cover of a comic! Hopefully, a CGC 9.6 grade for you or higher!
Elevate the level that you are working on......I put the mat board and SRP paper on an thin omnibus and set the cover front work are on that with the rest of the comic setting off...... easy pease Japanesy ...lol peace out
Nice video, very informative. I have a vintage movie poster lithograph from 1961 that has 2 linear indentions about 1 to 2 inches long each. The surface of the paper was not broken and there's no puncturing, thank god. Anyway, my question is, could I just use the Steel Bearing method without previously placing the poster in a humidifier, mount press, or using an iron? Would straight up rubbing the indentions with the ball bearing yield any results? Thanks
Wow! That was a laidback video and enjoyed the whole thing, learned a lot, got a ton of vintage comics im thinking about pressing and grading, not sure what I do for cleaning when it comes to cgc?
That was an awesome video sir, I haven’t seen a lot of these press videos but can I ask you if you or anyone else in your field might consider taking the staples out and work a page at a time then putting it back carefully? My unprofessional view thinks that might be plausible, with its risks of course.
Great question! 2.5 is the sweet spot. I would not go above 3. And only use intermittent heat. If you leave it in place too long, it will fry the book.
Love this series! Thanks for putting it together. I've been working on some ASM 252's that have some divots on the cover near the spine. How do you recommend working on near spine divots? I don't want to lay the book open/flat as it seems to push the cover down and potentially separate from the staples. I've attempted to have it lean against something so only the cover is flat, but couldn't seem to keep everything from moving/jostling around.
I use a mister... 2 to 2.5 minutes on each side. The CPR method using hours in the humidity chamber. The main reason for this is because the humidity levels are controlled and allowed to permeate the entire book as opposed to just the top cover (unless you are going page by page with the fabric gun). There is a lot of good data on times per era for the humidity tank, and I have determined my times with the mister based on a lot of trial and error with different era books. I think that's what if comes down to. If you have built experience with the fabric gun and it works for you, then by all means stick with it. The issue is that for those just getting into pressing, it is hard to explain how much "fabric gunning" to do, but I can easily tell you times for a humidity tank. It's easy to over-humidify with a steam/fabric gun. Plus, some of those steamers spurt out water if they are not working right. Has that happened to you? Thanks for the question!
BAR NONE YOU ARE THE FIRST PERSON EVER ,EVER TO USE ANOTHER BOARD TO FILP THE COMIC TO SEE OTHER SIDE!. I ask to look at comic and tell the vendor I'll never touch his books with my hands . They of course insist on they do it and of course 40% something happens . But I like your style . Sign Tony Comicproline rep and 30 year bad ass grader! lol
Thanks! I picked it up from a guy on Instragram. Now that I handle books so much, I am a lot more comfortable, but I still don't want to touch them without gloves. When I am in a shop, I always ask if I can open or if they prefer. They often let me do it. Unfortunately, most times the back of the book is garbage. Most people don't even look at the back before buying!
Where can you buy those magazines back boards to press idk which ones to get anyone can help me. Just about to start cleaning and pressing my own comics?!
Here you go: www.amazon.com/dp/B07QGFCMRP/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_J4DX1YKRMS5J1TXZ3B8Z?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 You will have to buff them with fine sand paper a little bit to clean them up.
Today, first heat press I got ink transfer on the inside covers to the paper inserts. Slightly humidified, Bronze age copy, half hour at 165 using silicone release paper, card centre and steel plates in the press, then left to cool.... Too long cooking perhaps....?
Ink transfer should really happen with bronze age books. What you are describing is likely the result of "too much" - too much heat, too much time, or too much pressure. Bronze and silver calls for 160 for 10-15 minutes. 30 was likely too long. Also, double check the pressure and lighten it up some.
You could probably use a large spoon for that. The nice thing about the ball bearing is that they have weight to them and no sharp edges. You don't have to press down very hard to "massage" the dent out and there is no chance of slipping and causing another dent with the edge of the spoon.
@@epicomicologycomics Since I asked the above, I've tried removing finger bends with a teaspoon and it worked very well for me. One advantage to the spoon would be that it has a wider curve and thus more surface contact with the paper, kind of equivalent to a 2-3" ball bearing without the weight. I found it easy to regulate the pressure by holding the spoon by the handle and pushing down in the middle of the bowl with my pointer finger. The biggest virtue of this though is that everyone has a spoon handy.
I buy it on Amazon but you can also find the best bulk pricing via U-line. If you check out KaptainMykes website, he has a bunch of links to pressing and cleaning supplies.
With this type of defect (deep dents or indentation from writing i.e., pencil marks), another press won't remove it. You really need to do some spot work to reverse the defect. Afterwards I press again. Sometimes it can take 3-4 presses with spot work before I am happy with how the book looks.
So Modern DC has paper that's a little different. Would the pressing technique apply the same to all modern comics? Should I press my modern DC the same as Marvel?
Do spine ticks really affect the grade? When they break the color & you flatten it out will it still really drop the grade? I’ve been boarding all my comics and some of them have 1 or 2 spine ticks, strangely enough even variants that I bought bagged & boarded and that were never read or taken out of the bag have spine ticks in them. I’ve no idea how that happened.
I've been pressing my own books for about 6 years now. Very informative. Learn new things all the time. Great content.
Awesome! Thanks for the compliments especially from a seasoned presser.
Where can you buy those magazines backboard idk which ones to get
I enjoyed watching this video. I have a similar defect on my ASM #50. Some light tracing but no pen or pencil marks either. Time to get a steel ball! I liked that technique and watching you do it made all the difference. Best to all.
Just missed a 9.0 for this book. Very informative video. Thanks!
Such a great book!
I would like to see something on removing small water stains from covers.
This is one of the most informative channels on this subject. Keep them coming!
Great suggestion! It's a little bit of a more advanced technique since it includes "wet cleaning" either with distilled water or a solution of hydrogen peroxide. I will see what I can do!
Wow big difference in that book great video
Thanks for watching! And yeah, this guy needed a lot of work. Thankfully most of those bends and dents came out.
Another great video! It's very helpful to see how the "Hot Shot" Method and use of a ball bearing is used to remove a dent from the front cover of a comic! Hopefully, a CGC 9.6 grade for you or higher!
Man if that hits a 9.6!! I just wish it was my books :( Always hard to see them go.
great demonstration.
Thank you!
Impressive work.
Thanks!
When you say "let it rest" do u mean it stays in the press for the amount of time or you take the pressure off and let it rest?
GREAT GREAT informative video thank YOU!!
Thanks for the comment!
Great video . What grade did it get?
Elevate the level that you are working on......I put the mat board and SRP paper on an thin omnibus and set the cover front work are on that with the rest of the comic setting off...... easy pease Japanesy ...lol peace out
Excellent video.
Thank you! Thanks for watching!
Fantastic content!
Thank you!
Nice video, very informative. I have a vintage movie poster lithograph from 1961 that has 2 linear indentions about 1 to 2 inches long each. The surface of the paper was not broken and there's no puncturing, thank god. Anyway, my question is, could I just use the Steel Bearing method without previously placing the poster in a humidifier, mount press, or using an iron? Would straight up rubbing the indentions with the ball bearing yield any results? Thanks
Awesome I wanted to confirm doing the hot shot method properly, interesting to see you use a qtip with water
Wow! That was a laidback video and enjoyed the whole thing, learned a lot, got a ton of vintage comics im thinking about pressing and grading, not sure what I do for cleaning when it comes to cgc?
Thank you!
That was an awesome video sir, I haven’t seen a lot of these press videos but can I ask you if you or anyone else in your field might consider taking the staples out and work a page at a time then putting it back carefully? My unprofessional view thinks that might be plausible, with its risks of course.
Can you use these same techniques on a foil cover?
Awesome work, I actually ended up buying another hanger iron, can you tell me what your settings equate to in terms of temperature? Thanks much SfS
Great question! 2.5 is the sweet spot. I would not go above 3. And only use intermittent heat. If you leave it in place too long, it will fry the book.
Love this series! Thanks for putting it together. I've been working on some ASM 252's that have some divots on the cover near the spine. How do you recommend working on near spine divots? I don't want to lay the book open/flat as it seems to push the cover down and potentially separate from the staples. I've attempted to have it lean against something so only the cover is flat, but couldn't seem to keep everything from moving/jostling around.
why choose hours in a humidity chamber over minutes manually moistening with fabric gun?
I use a mister... 2 to 2.5 minutes on each side. The CPR method using hours in the humidity chamber. The main reason for this is because the humidity levels are controlled and allowed to permeate the entire book as opposed to just the top cover (unless you are going page by page with the fabric gun). There is a lot of good data on times per era for the humidity tank, and I have determined my times with the mister based on a lot of trial and error with different era books. I think that's what if comes down to. If you have built experience with the fabric gun and it works for you, then by all means stick with it. The issue is that for those just getting into pressing, it is hard to explain how much "fabric gunning" to do, but I can easily tell you times for a humidity tank. It's easy to over-humidify with a steam/fabric gun. Plus, some of those steamers spurt out water if they are not working right. Has that happened to you? Thanks for the question!
Do you offer pressing services to the public?
Unfortunately I am only pressing for myself at this time.
BAR NONE YOU ARE THE FIRST PERSON EVER ,EVER TO USE ANOTHER BOARD TO FILP THE COMIC TO SEE OTHER SIDE!. I ask to look at comic and tell the vendor I'll never touch his books with my hands . They of course insist on they do it and of course 40% something happens . But I like your style . Sign Tony Comicproline rep and 30 year bad ass grader! lol
Thanks! I picked it up from a guy on Instragram. Now that I handle books so much, I am a lot more comfortable, but I still don't want to touch them without gloves. When I am in a shop, I always ask if I can open or if they prefer. They often let me do it. Unfortunately, most times the back of the book is garbage. Most people don't even look at the back before buying!
Do you have 2 copies? One to read and one to never touch again?
Good stuff!!
Thanks!
Love it
Thanks uncle!
Nice tutorial. I just subbed you up
Thank you!
How do you get your camera view like that
Tripod with iPhone mount and then flip the video in post.
Do you, press and clean books from collectors interested in having you do it?
After the humidity tank you add the 65lb paper and magazine boards and proceed with pressing correct?
Where can you buy those magazines back boards to press idk which ones to get anyone can help me. Just about to start cleaning and pressing my own comics?!
Hello , any link to buy the steel plates?
Here you go: www.amazon.com/dp/B07QGFCMRP/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_J4DX1YKRMS5J1TXZ3B8Z?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You will have to buff them with fine sand paper a little bit to clean them up.
Great job! Do you have a website for submissions?
I don’t... for now just pressing for myself.
@@epicomicologycomics ok thanks. I like how careful you are and would send my books your way anytime!
Does this also work for manga?
Today, first heat press I got ink transfer on the inside covers to the paper inserts. Slightly humidified, Bronze age copy, half hour at 165 using silicone release paper, card centre and steel plates in the press, then left to cool....
Too long cooking perhaps....?
Ink transfer should really happen with bronze age books. What you are describing is likely the result of "too much" - too much heat, too much time, or too much pressure. Bronze and silver calls for 160 for 10-15 minutes. 30 was likely too long. Also, double check the pressure and lighten it up some.
Any word on what it came back as from CGC?
Actually, yes! This one came back a 9.2 from CGC. The owner was quite happy considering the number of defects that had to be addressed.
@@epicomicologycomics very cool. Nice job!
Good video. A quick question; wouldn't the back of a teaspoon work as well as the ball bearing for pressing indentations and creases out?
You could probably use a large spoon for that. The nice thing about the ball bearing is that they have weight to them and no sharp edges. You don't have to press down very hard to "massage" the dent out and there is no chance of slipping and causing another dent with the edge of the spoon.
@@epicomicologycomics Since I asked the above, I've tried removing finger bends with a teaspoon and it worked very well for me. One advantage to the spoon would be that it has a wider curve and thus more surface contact with the paper, kind of equivalent to a 2-3" ball bearing without the weight. I found it easy to regulate the pressure by holding the spoon by the handle and pushing down in the middle of the bowl with my pointer finger. The biggest virtue of this though is that everyone has a spoon handy.
Where can i purchase some SRP paper? Thank you, great video!
I buy it on Amazon but you can also find the best bulk pricing via U-line. If you check out KaptainMykes website, he has a bunch of links to pressing and cleaning supplies.
@@epicomicologycomics Thank you!
What rating did it get?
Just out of curiosity why didn’t you repress it?
With this type of defect (deep dents or indentation from writing i.e., pencil marks), another press won't remove it. You really need to do some spot work to reverse the defect. Afterwards I press again. Sometimes it can take 3-4 presses with spot work before I am happy with how the book looks.
So Modern DC has paper that's a little different. Would the pressing technique apply the same to all modern comics? Should I press my modern DC the same as Marvel?
How much do you charge for a comic pressing? Thank you!
I generally press for myself now as part of the hobby.
Do spine ticks really affect the grade? When they break the color & you flatten it out will it still really drop the grade? I’ve been boarding all my comics and some of them have 1 or 2 spine ticks, strangely enough even variants that I bought bagged & boarded and that were never read or taken out of the bag have spine ticks in them. I’ve no idea how that happened.
That usually happens in transfer.. if they are minute U will have at least 9.6.. if U can C them only when U angle the book to the light, it's a 9.8..