Thank You So much! That is the way I found easiest for me. There is always more than one way to do it. But whatever is easiest and gives you great results is the one I recommend.
I'm absolutely loving wipe-on poly! I'm a little nervous about my next project though because it's a HUGE 4 ft x 12 ft butcher block peninsula countertop. I just finished staining with oil based gel stain. Do you have any tips for a really large immobile surface?
The wipe on poly dries so slow you should be able to do sections at a time while you teach and move over to get full coverage! If possible try to focus on half and half rather than trying to go all the way across from one side! Good luck! It is going to be gorgeous!
Oil based Polyurethane is the most durable, then Water-Based poly, followed by lacquer. Poly-acrylic is okay but I never use on finished tops that get a glass or come on it because the condensation on poly acrylic reactivates under temperature
Looked up "how to apply wipe on poly" and would you take a look at who I found!!! My piece is in the sun right now. Should I wait until the sun has moved to do this?
@@swbccs thank you for your kindness! In that video I used a lint free cloth. Since making this video, I typically pour the wipe on poly in a plastic container and used a high quality foam brush to apply it. It makes it go on thicker and self leveling better. If I wanted a thin polished layer, I would used the same applicator as a French polish. Which is made of cheesecloths bound together.
HELP! I've watched your video, along with several others, to learn about wipe on poly techniques. I'm restoring vintage speakers from the early 80's and so far I've been able to refinish all three vertical sides with ease using similar techniques using wipe on poly (satin) but the top of the speaker has been an absolute nightmare. I've removed and redone these top surfaces 4-5 times now because once I get beyond 2-3 coats i start getting this white film or fog across the surface and I can't figure what's causing it. I'm not sure if it's due to temperature difference than the vertical sides, the cloth that I'm using which is a cut up white t-shirt. I just can't figure it out. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Yeah I have heard that a time or two! The easiest way to tell if you need to sand is run your hand across it and feel for any rough spots. The first coat of wipe on poly is technically mostly in the wood but I always sand down raised grain in the initial coats which leaves a better final coat in my opinion!
Applied my own 50/50 mix of poly and mineral spirits. Came out decent but when I sanded the first coat, I left some visible scratches in the finish. Maybe 220 grit was too coarse for this stage? Any advice on how I can fix my mistake?
Apply first coat, sand with 320, apply second coat, sand with 320, apply third coat, sand with 600, apply last coat and buff with white 3m pad if needed Hope that helps!
@@smattt did the scratches go through the stain color? If so, you will want to sand back down to the wood and apply the stain to fix the scratches. If the scratches are just in the first coat, the second coat should have covered them up
Thanks for the video! What kind of wood is that? I've tried the same product on plywood in the past and the wood just soaks it up. Def does not behave the same way it did in this video
Applying on a guitar it is not square so you need to take time going around the edges and by the time you get it done (say on the back with lots of curved edges due to the shape) it gets tacky and then leaves streaks. Use 320 to get the streaks out but then dull. Do this three more times and ended up with streaks still. How do I get the last coat to not be streaky? Problem is it dries too fast and gets tacky while working with it.
@@LinHowe-lz8rj we do not typically use wood conditioner before applying polyurethanes. Wood conditioner is just extremely thinned out polyurethane so it isn’t needed. Some refinishers use it prior to…to eliminate raised grained but since we sand between every finish, we choose not to use it. It is up to the refinisher and their style The brand I recommend is @oldmasters
This was a very informative video. That being said… I’m still getting bubbles…I have 1 more coat to do & I want to get it nice. I didn’t shake the container because it said not to ; but it says mix thoroughly which is quite a trick in that type of container. Could this be why I’m getting bubbles? Thanks
If you push too hard it creates that. After I apply a layer, I go back through the entire thing and lightly and slowly level those out. You will want to sand those out with 320 or 400 and then reapply
I used a lint free rag, and made sure it was already semi-saturated with the poly. You can use old t-shirts too. If you want a little thicker coat…I recommend a high quality foam brush, they are not all the same, or you can get a natural bristle brush made for oil based stains and varnishes
As long as you get an even coat on your surface, streaking should be minimal to none. Also, you will need to apply 3-5 coats. Sometimes the few first coats may streak due to the wood soaking in the product, but your final coats should not
Please can you get your video translated to Hindi language for all of us Carpenters in India... Thank you sir... Very full information.. very clear.. very good.. very simple.. thank you again Sir...
NO! NO paper towels! It is a lint free cloth that has poly on it already! There is a link in the description of this video to lint free cloths from amazon or an old white cotton tshirt works also!
Shaking causes bubbles. With satin sheen, it so easy shaking to get the mixture right before applying. If you put it in a cup, you can stir it. I shake it for 15 seconds, let it sit for a minute and then pour and apply. The slow and smooth brush stroke will remove bubbles
@@layersofgracedesigns9351 I take a paint stick and split a 1/4” wide or little larger strip off it and use that to stir in the can. You can reach every corner of the can just make sure the stick is straight across on the end to scrape the bottom of the can.
Makes me anxious to watch you pouring out of the tin onto your piece. Also working from front to back seems counter intuitive with you leaning over your work. Not convinced but thanks nonetheless.
Finally a very informative video without a lot of BS, Thanks.
lol! We try to not have the long intro.
Now I know how to apply wipe on poly. Your way is a better way than I have been using. Thanks!
Thank You So much! That is the way I found easiest for me. There is always more than one way to do it. But whatever is easiest and gives you great results is the one I recommend.
thank you for the info on applying on large areas. this is the only technique that worked for me
So happy you found it helpful!
This really is the best video that shows you how to use the wipe on poly. Thank you for getting to the teaching.
Glad it was helpful!
That was very helpful! I like ZAR products. I will try a 50/50 mix of their poly and mineral spirits.
keep up the great work
Thanks! Great info and demo.
Thank you so much!
Thank you for making this video 👍🏻
You are welcome. Anything we can do to help!
I'm absolutely loving wipe-on poly! I'm a little nervous about my next project though because it's a HUGE 4 ft x 12 ft butcher block peninsula countertop. I just finished staining with oil based gel stain. Do you have any tips for a really large immobile surface?
The wipe on poly dries so slow you should be able to do sections at a time while you teach and move over to get full coverage! If possible try to focus on half and half rather than trying to go all the way across from one side! Good luck! It is going to be gorgeous!
Is this product durable enough for a dining room table finish?
Oil based Polyurethane is the most durable, then Water-Based poly, followed by lacquer. Poly-acrylic is okay but I never use on finished tops that get a glass or come on it because the condensation on poly acrylic reactivates under temperature
Looked up "how to apply wipe on poly" and would you take a look at who I found!!!
My piece is in the sun right now. Should I wait until the sun has moved to do this?
You do definitely not want to poly in the sun!
Very good video! Just the facts, no theatrics . . I could get used to that. Question, what do you use for the application rag? Is that cheesecloth?
@@swbccs thank you for your kindness! In that video I used a lint free cloth.
Since making this video, I typically pour the wipe on poly in a plastic container and used a high quality foam brush to apply it. It makes it go on thicker and self leveling better.
If I wanted a thin polished layer, I would used the same applicator as a French polish. Which is made of cheesecloths bound together.
HELP! I've watched your video, along with several others, to learn about wipe on poly techniques. I'm restoring vintage speakers from the early 80's and so far I've been able to refinish all three vertical sides with ease using similar techniques using wipe on poly (satin) but the top of the speaker has been an absolute nightmare. I've removed and redone these top surfaces 4-5 times now because once I get beyond 2-3 coats i start getting this white film or fog across the surface and I can't figure what's causing it. I'm not sure if it's due to temperature difference than the vertical sides, the cloth that I'm using which is a cut up white t-shirt. I just can't figure it out. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
ive heard some say that you DONT sand after your first layer and that you usually start the sanding in between the 2nd and 3rd layer. what say you?
Yeah I have heard that a time or two! The easiest way to tell if you need to sand is run your hand across it and feel for any rough spots. The first coat of wipe on poly is technically mostly in the wood but I always sand down raised grain in the initial coats which leaves a better final coat in my opinion!
Applied my own 50/50 mix of poly and mineral spirits. Came out decent but when I sanded the first coat, I left some visible scratches in the finish. Maybe 220 grit was too coarse for this stage? Any advice on how I can fix my mistake?
Apply first coat, sand with 320, apply second coat, sand with 320, apply third coat, sand with 600, apply last coat and buff with white 3m pad if needed
Hope that helps!
@@layersofgracedesigns9351 Thanks, that does. Any advice on how to get rid of the scratches though now that I've already put two coats on?
@@smattt did the scratches go through the stain color? If so, you will want to sand back down to the wood and apply the stain to fix the scratches. If the scratches are just in the first coat, the second coat should have covered them up
@@layersofgracedesigns9351 Ah gotcha. Appreciate the response.
Thanks for the video! What kind of wood is that? I've tried the same product on plywood in the past and the wood just soaks it up. Def does not behave the same way it did in this video
This is solid mahogany wood. If using on plywood or a really porous wood it will soak it! I usually do about 4 layers for full coverage!
Do we need to use any kind of sanding sealer prior to the poly application?
You can to help reduce raised grain on your first coat. We just apply this first and smooth sand between every additional coat.
Applying on a guitar it is not square so you need to take time going around the edges and by the time you get it done (say on the back with lots of curved edges due to the shape) it gets tacky and then leaves streaks. Use 320 to get the streaks out but then dull. Do this three more times and ended up with streaks still. How do I get the last coat to not be streaky? Problem is it dries too fast and gets tacky while working with it.
400 grit paper between coats
What wood conditioner do you recommend with wipe on poly?
@@LinHowe-lz8rj we do not typically use wood conditioner before applying polyurethanes. Wood conditioner is just extremely thinned out polyurethane so it isn’t needed.
Some refinishers use it prior to…to eliminate raised grained but since we sand between every finish, we choose not to use it.
It is up to the refinisher and their style
The brand I recommend is @oldmasters
This was a very informative video. That being said… I’m still getting bubbles…I have 1 more coat to do & I want to get it nice. I didn’t shake the container because it said not to ; but it says mix thoroughly which is quite a trick in that type of container. Could this be why I’m getting bubbles? Thanks
To remove the bubbles, go slower and don’t push hard. High quality foam brushes work well for me
@@layersofgracedesigns9351 it worked! Thank you!
@@mrnoel1603 awesome! Glad to hear you got it figured out! Thanks for letting us know we helped!
@@layersofgracedesigns9351 one more question 🙋♀️. I did another (no bubbles Ty!) but it dried wavy… what did I do wrong there & can it be fixed?
If you push too hard it creates that. After I apply a layer, I go back through the entire thing and lightly and slowly level those out. You will want to sand those out with 320 or 400 and then reapply
What type of rag did you use?
I used a lint free rag, and made sure it was already semi-saturated with the poly. You can use old t-shirts too. If you want a little thicker coat…I recommend a high quality foam brush, they are not all the same, or you can get a natural bristle brush made for oil based stains and varnishes
Is the technique different for vertical surfaces?
Yes in general it is the same technique for a vertical. I just wouldn’t pour it on and would do it thinner so it doesn’t drip!
Great!
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Will this product streak no matter how you apply it?
As long as you get an even coat on your surface, streaking should be minimal to none. Also, you will need to apply 3-5 coats. Sometimes the few first coats may streak due to the wood soaking in the product, but your final coats should not
Can this be used on oil base stains ?
Absolutely!
@@layersofgracedesigns9351 ok great thanks
@@layersofgracedesigns9351 is it possible just to use wood conditioner and wood stain
Do you think it’ll still look okay?🤔
@@TRDproMike The Wipe on poly is just your protective layer! It can go over just natural wood or stain!
What kind of rag?
You can use a lint free rag or old T-Shirt
Please can you get your video translated to Hindi language for all of us Carpenters in India... Thank you sir... Very full information.. very clear.. very good.. very simple.. thank you again Sir...
What type of rag did you use to apply?
Ha! Almost looks like a paper towel, but I know that can't be right...
NO! NO paper towels! It is a lint free cloth that has poly on it already! There is a link in the description of this video to lint free cloths from amazon or an old white cotton tshirt works also!
@@layersofgracedesigns9351 Awesome! Thank you. And yeah, I know you didn't actually use a paper towel. Hence the "Ha!" comment
My can of Wipe-On Poly says to not shake the can.
Shaking causes bubbles. With satin sheen, it so easy shaking to get the mixture right before applying. If you put it in a cup, you can stir it.
I shake it for 15 seconds, let it sit for a minute and then pour and apply. The slow and smooth brush stroke will remove bubbles
@@layersofgracedesigns9351 I take a paint stick and split a 1/4” wide or little larger strip off it and use that to stir in the can. You can reach every corner of the can just make sure the stick is straight across on the end to scrape the bottom of the can.
@@GM-tr3lt that is a great idea! Thanks for sharing!
your putting it on too thick
Makes me anxious to watch you pouring out of the tin onto your piece. Also working from front to back seems counter intuitive with you leaning over your work. Not convinced but thanks nonetheless.
Great Video! How do I do it if I have an irregular shape like a guitar?
What kind of rag do you use?
Lint Free Cloth or old T-Shirts.