Good fix! I believe this is what's wrong with mine (I have a Craftsman, with 2 capacitors, one for 'start', one for 'run'). Also side note, it's important to not run the compressor for a long period without the shroud/cover, not just for safety, but that's how the fan blade's airflow cools the motor. Without the shroud on, the fan's airflow is not directing cool air over the motor, and it can overheat quickly.
I have a husky 8 gallon hot dog style air compressor,the fan broke and I have it without a fan shroud it's been running like that for almost 2 years perfectly fine but I don't recommend running it without them I do
A word of warning... capacitors hold a high voltage charge and before handling you should discharge them by shorting the pins on it with an insulated screwdriver.
Your light was dimming itself down as soon as you switched on that compressor. Good indication it’s going bad. Also I like how you didn’t tie this capacitor to the engine and it made it move and touch metal housing and blow capacitor xD Thanks for explaining as mine is doing similar thing but also blow fuse within first 5 seconds of it running and I think I’ll change capacitor. Great video
Thankyou for the video. My compressor is speeding up and slowing down so I will check the capacitor first. If you work on the capacitor again, it can store energy and shock you even with power off.
It's an AC circuit, only a DC would be an issue. An AC circuit discharges the capacitor 60 times a second... of course, it is electrolytic, and if it's screwed up....
@@jvoll7685 I watched quite a few videos and read several discussion threads on the matter before working on mine. They all backed up what I learned in HS about capacitors. I would recommend more research before anyone goes and grabs a capacitor based on this statement.
Damn, I have just spent most of an afternoon dismantling my compressor because of the same problem. I eventually got the cover off, and discovered the capacitor was kaput, same as yourself. I had most of the cylinder/piston dismantled before I traced what was doing the job.... excellent video, shame I found it way too late for me....!!!!
Juhu ... I think mine got the same problem. Though mine does not work at all. And something smells when electricity is on. But I will find a new capacitor. THX.
The motor and pump looks identical to the senco pc1131 that I have and I have the same problem and the capacitor that is in your unit is way longer. The one that is original is 4.4" from the connection spades to end of the retention stub. The original was a S cbb60 60uf 250 vac e166700 RU
Scott Keeley no problem. I'm facing the same thing and I have the usual anxiety of ordering online and getting the wrong stuff shipped out. I guess I have to try grainger again. I have two compressors that are doing nothing at the moment. I have the senco and a central pneumatic. The pressure switch was bad on the senco and then the central pneumatic had the blow by going on with the intake. So I decided that I would yank the pressure switch and regulator assembly off the central pneumatic and then modify it to the senco. Everything went on surprisingly well and then I gave it a trial run. It started and pumping up to the pressure that the switch was rated for, which is 150psi and shut off. No air leaking was ecstatic. Then I figured that there was one more thing to test and that was to release air pressure down to the pressure that kicks the pump back on. And that was when I had made the grim discovery that the motor was having an issue. I removed the cover and then I see the capacitor. I was having a problem finding a capacitor after driving around for a while and then I called off the search. Then I noticed a video in the RUclips videos related to stuff you had viewed earlier that was exactly what I had tried to find unsuccessfully before, go figure. I watched it and I learned about the reed valve head on the central pneumatic and it wasn't really too difficult, so I thought to get into. I broke it down and everything looks good just one of the metal tabs was out of place. I set it back and put it back together, and the same thing. I figured that the gasket that one of the valve plates and the head was bad and then I got it apart and the gasket was blown out. I went and got some gasket making materials and made a gasket and got everything back together and then I started the compressor. It's pumping fine until it gets to 90psi and plateaus out there and then the gasket blows. I made another gasket and used some form a gasket in a tube to give it more strength, and it did the same thing. I searched video on RUclips and then finally got onto a website that had a forum. It turns out what happens is those oilless pumps are going to start losing compression and the pump is running longer trying to get to stopping pressure. The head gets hot enough that the gasket gives out. The valve chamber is divided in half and the gasket is rather thin between the two chambers. A guy on the forum said to try and clean the material that the piston ring is with brake fluid and then take some silicone and fill in the space between the ring and the piston head. It is supposed to give the ring a better seal and possibly get past that pressure plateau. I guess central pneumatic is limited on the parts available for the compressor. I guess since it's roughly a 100 dollar harbor freight tool, getting more than the warranty period is actually a big deal. The tank is 6.5 gallon and the senco is only 4.5. I'm leaning towards putting the senco pump on the central pneumatic tank for more air volume and then I might turn the senco tanks into an auxiliary tank that I can combine with quick connections for mor air volume. Or I have been making train horns out of pvc and might use the senco tanks for an air tank on the truck and get a 12vdc compressor to go to it. There's some videos on RUclips on pvc train horn you might get a kick out of. I made one and I used the shop compressor that was like a 50 gallon tank and 80psi and that sucker was loud as hell. Good luck with your compressed air ventures.
@Scott Keeley ... I'm just curious...Did you "Discharge the capacitor" while off camera, or did you know/think there was no need to do so, since it had burned out right in front of you? Cheer's!
Be careful handling that CAP.. it's purpose is to store voltage, and discharge it quick.. that thing will give you a jolt you'll remember for a long time!!
Hi Great video on my compressor after i have got it down to 40 psi as it goes to start it hums and turns on the reset button would it be the same problem as yours mine doesn't do it all the time
I know this is an old video. But dang, dude, could you be any less careless with that capacitor? Those are dangerous, and carry serious voltage⚡ ⚡They must be discharged.
My pro Force was doing the same thing.replaced capacitor (same 2wk wait) runs then starts to strain, the dies will start; run then dies? any thoughts? Thanks!
Could it have two seperate capacitors, a run capacitor and a start capacitor? It could be the pressure switch is failing also or maybe the compressor is overheating and the thermal cut off is shutting it off. Also plug the compressor in the wall socket directly. Dont use an extension cord. That's all I can think of for now. Hope that helps.
@@howtoscottkeeley Thanks for reply! ...Same set as yours. was running without ground connect in cord. changed plug. ran up to 120!? done that before though? gonna change the oil. say some prayers over it and all will be good.....till i need again..Later!
It doesn't have to be the exact replacement. The only thing that matters is its capacity in micro farads. 1: unplug it. 2: DO NOT TOUCH THE ELECTRICAL TERMINALS ON THE CAPACITOR. It stores electricity at a much higher voltage than your wall plugs. 3: Use a screwdriver to short out the electrical termimals on the capacitor while being careful to hold it by the handle while keeping your fingers away from the shaft. As an extra precaution use insulated needle nose pliers to unplug the wires from the capacitor. A capacitor can store an electrical charge for a long time. So if you don't discharge it first and touch it a few weeks later you will get the shock of your life. On this compressor it increases the voltage to about 350 volts. Once you find a capacitor with the same micro farad rating you can zip tie it in a place under the cover where it won't ground out and can't be touched by someone's fingers.
Good fix! I believe this is what's wrong with mine (I have a Craftsman, with 2 capacitors, one for 'start', one for 'run'). Also side note, it's important to not run the compressor for a long period without the shroud/cover, not just for safety, but that's how the fan blade's airflow cools the motor. Without the shroud on, the fan's airflow is not directing cool air over the motor, and it can overheat quickly.
Thank you.
I have a husky 8 gallon hot dog style air compressor,the fan broke and I have it without a fan shroud it's been running like that for almost 2 years perfectly fine but I don't recommend running it without them I do
A word of warning... capacitors hold a high voltage charge and before handling you should discharge them by shorting the pins on it with an insulated screwdriver.
Your light was dimming itself down as soon as you switched on that compressor. Good indication it’s going bad. Also I like how you didn’t tie this capacitor to the engine and it made it move and touch metal housing and blow capacitor xD Thanks for explaining as mine is doing similar thing but also blow fuse within first 5 seconds of it running and I think I’ll change capacitor. Great video
Thankyou for the video. My compressor is speeding up and slowing down so I will check the capacitor first. If you work on the capacitor again, it can store energy and shock you even with power off.
Thank you!
It's an AC circuit, only a DC would be an issue. An AC circuit discharges the capacitor 60 times a second... of course, it is electrolytic, and if it's screwed up....
@@jvoll7685 I watched quite a few videos and read several discussion threads on the matter before working on mine. They all backed up what I learned in HS about capacitors. I would recommend more research before anyone goes and grabs a capacitor based on this statement.
Damn, I have just spent most of an afternoon dismantling my compressor because of the same problem. I eventually got the cover off, and discovered the capacitor was kaput, same as yourself. I had most of the cylinder/piston dismantled before I traced what was doing the job.... excellent video, shame I found it way too late for me....!!!!
Pot metal, thank you. First time I've ever heard it used other than me.
Heading outside to check mine right now! Thanks man!!!
Great video thanks this video save me hundreds instead of spending 300 on a new one it only cost me 35 ty
My compressor has the same problem. HF brand but looks like the same motor/compressor. BTW that metal is called "chinesium".
Thanks my Ryobi is doing the same will check it this weekend,
thank you and I saw this vedio that is my big problem with my compressor good job boss💪💪💪
Glad I could help
Juhu ... I think mine got the same problem. Though mine does not work at all. And something smells when electricity is on. But I will find a new capacitor. THX.
Very helpful!
The motor and pump looks identical to the senco pc1131 that I have and I have the same problem and the capacitor that is in your unit is way longer. The one that is original is 4.4" from the connection spades to end of the retention stub. The original was a S cbb60 60uf 250 vac e166700 RU
Thank you
Scott Keeley no problem. I'm facing the same thing and I have the usual anxiety of ordering online and getting the wrong stuff shipped out. I guess I have to try grainger again. I have two compressors that are doing nothing at the moment. I have the senco and a central pneumatic. The pressure switch was bad on the senco and then the central pneumatic had the blow by going on with the intake. So I decided that I would yank the pressure switch and regulator assembly off the central pneumatic and then modify it to the senco. Everything went on surprisingly well and then I gave it a trial run. It started and pumping up to the pressure that the switch was rated for, which is 150psi and shut off. No air leaking was ecstatic. Then I figured that there was one more thing to test and that was to release air pressure down to the pressure that kicks the pump back on. And that was when I had made the grim discovery that the motor was having an issue. I removed the cover and then I see the capacitor. I was having a problem finding a capacitor after driving around for a while and then I called off the search. Then I noticed a video in the RUclips videos related to stuff you had viewed earlier that was exactly what I had tried to find unsuccessfully before, go figure. I watched it and I learned about the reed valve head on the central pneumatic and it wasn't really too difficult, so I thought to get into. I broke it down and everything looks good just one of the metal tabs was out of place. I set it back and put it back together, and the same thing. I figured that the gasket that one of the valve plates and the head was bad and then I got it apart and the gasket was blown out. I went and got some gasket making materials and made a gasket and got everything back together and then I started the compressor. It's pumping fine until it gets to 90psi and plateaus out there and then the gasket blows. I made another gasket and used some form a gasket in a tube to give it more strength, and it did the same thing. I searched video on RUclips and then finally got onto a website that had a forum. It turns out what happens is those oilless pumps are going to start losing compression and the pump is running longer trying to get to stopping pressure. The head gets hot enough that the gasket gives out. The valve chamber is divided in half and the gasket is rather thin between the two chambers. A guy on the forum said to try and clean the material that the piston ring is with brake fluid and then take some silicone and fill in the space between the ring and the piston head. It is supposed to give the ring a better seal and possibly get past that pressure plateau. I guess central pneumatic is limited on the parts available for the compressor. I guess since it's roughly a 100 dollar harbor freight tool, getting more than the warranty period is actually a big deal. The tank is 6.5 gallon and the senco is only 4.5. I'm leaning towards putting the senco pump on the central pneumatic tank for more air volume and then I might turn the senco tanks into an auxiliary tank that I can combine with quick connections for mor air volume. Or I have been making train horns out of pvc and might use the senco tanks for an air tank on the truck and get a 12vdc compressor to go to it. There's some videos on RUclips on pvc train horn you might get a kick out of. I made one and I used the shop compressor that was like a 50 gallon tank and 80psi and that sucker was loud as hell. Good luck with your compressed air ventures.
Thank you for the sound I have the same problem
@Scott Keeley ...
I'm just curious...Did you "Discharge the capacitor" while off camera, or did you know/think there was no need to do so, since it had burned out right in front of you? Cheer's!
I did not discharge it since it blew right in front of me. You are correct that you should discharge it if that doesn't happen. Thanks
And a second thanks, I think I found out why mine wasn't starting back up once it filled.
Like your demonstration you clud add 1 more that will make it even better
Be careful handling that CAP.. it's purpose is to store voltage, and discharge it quick.. that thing will give you a jolt you'll remember for a long time!!
Hi Great video on my compressor after i have got it down to 40 psi as it goes to start it hums and turns on the reset button would it be the same problem as yours mine doesn't do it all the time
Thanks pal. I will credit you if this fixes ours...:)
Great job.
This is 100% my issue
Thank u very much
Awesome :)
what was link for compositor
My compressor starts then stops and cuts the fuse, what can it be? Checked the capacitors all working fine.
I know this is an old video. But dang, dude, could you be any less careless with that capacitor? Those are dangerous, and carry serious voltage⚡ ⚡They must be discharged.
Thanks sir
My pro Force was doing the same thing.replaced capacitor (same 2wk wait) runs then starts to strain, the dies will start; run then dies? any thoughts? Thanks!
Could it have two seperate capacitors, a run capacitor and a start capacitor? It could be the pressure switch is failing also or maybe the compressor is overheating and the thermal cut off is shutting it off. Also plug the compressor in the wall socket directly. Dont use an extension cord. That's all I can think of for now. Hope that helps.
@@howtoscottkeeley Thanks for reply! ...Same set as yours. was running without ground connect in cord. changed plug. ran up to 120!? done that before though? gonna change the oil. say some prayers over it and all will be good.....till i need again..Later!
Where did you get the capacitor. China is a very big country.
I think I ordered it through ebay and it was shipped from China. It took awhile to get it.
@@howtoscottkeeley thank you for your kindness. 👍
Well done. Instead of a hacksaw, I would have used a grinder and just shaved a bit of metal out of the way.
Thanks, good ideal. I did not have a grinder available to me though.
Me again I forgot to tell you make sure was discharged, and then you have a winner
I think that they realized that the oem capacitor was poor design and sent you the new version
I have a Kobalt 8 gallon that is doing the same thing. Now maybe I will be able to correct my issue.
It doesn't have to be the exact replacement. The only thing that matters is its capacity in micro farads. 1: unplug it. 2: DO NOT TOUCH THE ELECTRICAL TERMINALS ON THE CAPACITOR. It stores electricity at a much higher voltage than your wall plugs. 3: Use a screwdriver to short out the electrical termimals on the capacitor while being careful to hold it by the handle while keeping your fingers away from the shaft. As an extra precaution use insulated needle nose pliers to unplug the wires from the capacitor.
A capacitor can store an electrical charge for a long time. So if you don't discharge it first and touch it a few weeks later you will get the shock of your life. On this compressor it increases the voltage to about 350 volts.
Once you find a capacitor with the same micro farad rating you can zip tie it in a place under the cover where it won't ground out and can't be touched by someone's fingers.