🛠Charlie DIYte Amazon Tool Store amzn.to/3fcLnY4 - all my tried, tested and much loved DIY tools. You can help support me by Buying me a Coffee ☕ bit.ly/3xuQ3zb or by becoming a Member to unlock a host of benefits - thanks so much 🙏.
Hi Charlie. Im good-ish as a paId handyman but you're bettererer. I'm 61, I have a small business and I take on only what I know. I am getting GREAT tips from you, you are a great help. You're a terrific presenter / teacher, and your vids are so clear and VERY easy to follow. Hope you carry on for many years and you get the success you deserve from this channel.
Thanks so much Colin. It gives me a massive buzz to know that my videos are helping people out in some way or other! Thanks so much for taking the time to comment!
Currently converting 2 garage doors into window/French doors respectively - it’s an old stone barn garage and I haven’t actually done any window work before, but I know I prefer working with mortar mixes rather than silicon etc, have found with this house that the stones seem to prefer it (so to speak) so this was exactly the video I needed to reassure myself I’m doing ok! Marvellous…
Hi Charlie You posted this over two years ago but I just needed it. I normally do cabinet work but today removed a rotted window and replaced it. Your video helped prepare me for the job and it all went swimmingly. Thanks a million
Hi Charlie. How do you measure and order the right size of window to the greatest degree of accuracy without removing the window and discovering the true size of the aperture first? How much play are you allowing for and where on the original windows are you measuring to find this out? Thanks in advance.
Magic! I have a few windows to replace (one more urgently than the others lol!), but I don't want to pay someone else to do it for a load of reasons. I can now see how relatively simple it is to do, thanks to you. :)
Don't forget to screw them in place with frame fixings (I tend to do this after the foam has set) and you'll need building regs approval, which you can get retrospectively but worth lining that up before the event really, to ensure the windows are compliant.
An excellent video and guide, I've always loved your videos, it's thanks to you I've not only gained confidence in my own ability but have also saved money whilst doing so! Look forward to the next venture! Keep up the brilliant work!
+Kas Qad Kas, that is the best comment I've received to date! - it can be quite a lonely, time consuming existence making and editing these videos - so comments like yours are so important. Massive thanks, and keep up the good work!
Charlie DIYte, not at all, it's you we should all be thanking for taking the time out to actually put this together, we should all try to share our experiences and advice with one another to help your fellow man/woman! Through your videos, your inadvertently creating a collaborative network with your tutorials and advice, if only everyone else in the world shared the same values! Keep it up Charlie!
Hi! Nice video - well-explained, thank you very much. I'm just about to do a similar job in an old stone-built cottage. I'm a bit scared of messing it up because they are sash windows and I'm not sure what I'll find when I get them out, but at some point we have to grasp the nettle don't we? Is there any way you could update on using frame fixings at some point please?
Well done taking on what I would call a scary job. Just wondered if you thought about using Lyme for your mortar as I hear Victorian brick houses don’t like the Portland stuff.
Thanks. Only thing is if you've got one to install, put a couple of frame fixings in each side. I think I missed that point in the vid. The trick is to get the window straight with the foam and then drill in the fixings when the foam has set hard. 👊
Good video. 2 things thatd make life a lot easier would be a reciprocating saw for removal of old windows, to avoid damage to the substrate by hammering and a proper gun for the foam. Much easier to control I find.
I agree Ben, as discussed here ruclips.net/video/Obc1thYnLEs/видео.html although I have a non stick gun now which is also much better as you don't need to revive and clean it until the foam has been used up in the can whereas my old gun blocked up regularly
You're welcome Chris. A couple of things. You should mechanically fix them too. I think this might be a regs requirement. I get them in position, wedge them then apply the expanding foam. Once that's set you can drill through the frames and insert frame fixings. Some people do this through the hinge rebates so the holes are hidden but if yours are hand painted like mine you can fill after for an invisible job. I have a building regs consultant who is going to grant me retrospective consent when I get round to it. It's just something people might pick up on when you come to sell so worth considering.
Thanks Barry. The one thing I neglected to mention was the mechanical fixings. I typically use the expanding foam to get the window in the right position and when it's set, you can then drill in frame fixings. I find if you try and do this beforehand the window can easily move out of line.
Well done Charlie good clear precise video keep up the good work from a fellow traditionalist I learned a few new tricks from yourself looking forward to seeing all your videos Best wishes to you and your family from joe
Hi Charlie thanks for all the great videos. Question if you happen to see this, I have been researching a lot about the damp issues that cement causes when applied to older properties due to the substance trapping moisture, including the likes of pointing and rendering and so forth, with lime mixes being better recommended due to its breathability. I have also viewed several videos showing how timber window frames have rotted where cement has been used to seal around the frames. So as I embark on replacing my own windows I wonder whether I’d be better using a lime mortar of sorts around the frames, curious to know if you have any thoughts on this
I haven't really done any scientific research to compare the two but I tend to add a waterproof admix to the sand and cement which also acts as a plasticiser. When painted I really haven't had any problems with water ingress/ rotting although that happens elsewhere because of the soft wood frames and sun 😉
Hi Charlie, Thanks for a great video. Have you done anything with your outside window brick sill? I have a similar one to yours and I have a black substance on that. I am not sure what is that.
Charlie - sorry to dig up one of your vintage vids. However I'm looking at doing the same thing but with a upvc window. Intrigued to know how you got those hammer screws all the way through what looks like a very deep frame? And did you use no silicone anywhere here?
Thanks mate. Yes I did add frame fixings as this is I think a building regs requirement. Here's a recent install where I show this ruclips.net/video/02Fd1pyOia0/видео.htmlsi=c0MLSRLbmRHEZAaN
Mark Hannah Hi Mark. You should really use a combination of the both - frame fixings and foam. My suggestion would be to get the window in position and horizontal etc, wedge it in place, fix with foam and then when the foam has set, drill in the mechanical fixings. If you do this before the foam and like me, the window isn't completely flush in the recess, it might move around a bit when you drill it for the mechanical fixings. And don't forget to get the necessary LABC certification - see my reply to Iain's comment below, on this.
How did you fix the frame to the brick? I'm putting in a exterior door frame for the side of my house and Im not sure how I fix the frame to the brick. Do I offer up the frame, make a drill hole in the frame to mark the brick, then remove the frame, raw plug the brick then put the frame back on and screw into the fixing. You are normally very detailed with your jobs, think I may have missed something. Please advise. Great job as ever
Yes Craig, I omitted that step from this video which was a big error - particularly as it's a building regs requirement. What I like to do is anchor the frame in position using the expanding foam, because that way you can get it in exactly the right position, all trued up. When the foam has set, I drill through the frame into the brickwork and insert frame fixings into the frame, slightly recessed into the surface of the wooden frame - so when I knock the plastic frame fixing plug into place it's half in the wall and half in the window frame if that makes sense. I can then screw the frame tightly in place, and fill the hole when that's done. Some people hide the holes behind the window hinges. I find if you try and drill first, with the best will in the world the frame can move when you're drilling and or inserting the screws. Same principle with the door frame, I would have thought, and you want the expanding foam just to insulate the gap nicely to eliminate any cold bridging.
@@CharlieDIYte Agh, that's the Charlie detail I was looking for. Thanks for taking the time to clarify this. I have never used frame fixings, there is nothing on RUclips to demonstrate these. I had no idea that some of these scew fixings screw directly into the wall with no plug?! This ruined my mind a little bit as I have always assumed a fixing into brick or block had to have a Raw plug. I'm about to widen the side door of my house to get a motorbike through, so I will be trying these frame fixings. I was also surprised by the window fixing which come with there own plug, but weirdly do not expand when the screw is driven through it. I couldn't understand this then I thought, I guess the fixing won't have any pulling pressure on them. I know you have done some great videos on fixing into plasterboard. I hope I see one of your projects using these fixings in the future. Be too late for me but interesting for your channel. Also, have you see those inflatable wedges? Genius I think. They are used to hang doors and windows. They are used instead of shims. Bit like your foam idea to hold them in place. You do of course still have to use packers. Anyway, thanks again Charlie, keep those videos coming. I appreciate your hard work and attention to detail.
Fantastic job and what a legend you're sharing your knowledge 👏. I have always wondered about the installation of windows, if the windows receive heavy rain, is flashing underneath mandatory?
Thanks Rob. It very much depends on the configuration of the walls, and whether you're installing from the inside or outside but my original windows weren't flashed. The key is a watertight seal I would have thought but check the regs requirements in your area. 👍
You shouldv'e put a few screws to fit the frame into the brickwork! Expanding foam is just glue LOL Once you get the boys wrestling in the bedroom; a knock or two will eventually make that frame fall out.
Absolutely right and something I should have shown in this vid. I've got a window going in, in my next vid on Zinsser All Coat and I'll be showing that being mechanically fixed in place.
+Zed Man Cheers mate. It's not bad, though not quite as remote and idyllic as it looks on camera! Also very dilapidated, but that's what I've got to thank for all the videos ☺️
Enjoyed the video! I may give the next window replacement a shot myself! Also get yourself a foam gun, worth its weight in gold if you have any foaming to do! Also... do you have to LABC out to inspect after changing the window out?
Thanks Iain! You certainly do - potentially during and after installation, and you have to get a certificate to prove that you have complied. There's lots of info on the web eg www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/replacementregs.htm
Inside? Ideally insulation layer, a vapour barrier, then plasterboard and usually plaster up to window frame. You can put stop beads, but usually more hassle than worth.
Did you not install window frame fixings? I was hoping to see how you did that. Also if you replace and up Christmas doors l would find that helpful. Great job as usual!
There's a clip of me doing it here ruclips.net/video/02Fd1pyOia0/видео.htmlsi=QdDmMzu7vNK9ceUr You basically drill the frame with a bit that has the same diameter or slightly larger than the frame fixing and countersunk the surface. Then insert the concrete bit (I use SDS) drill to the correct depth. Give it a really good wiggle as often the frame fixing gets caught. Then insert the frame fixing. Lightly tap it in as far as it will go with a hammer without damaging it, then insert the screw and hammer it home until fully inserted. And then screw it tight. Then fill the hole with 2 part wood filler. Some people say drill where the hinges are so the hole is hidden but I prefer to fix it further back in the frame.
@@CharlieDIYte legend! I have just bought a stone/brick cottage built in the mid 1800s and the rotten windows need replacing. This video has been a god send. Many thanks!
It depends on whether you've got internal wall insulation or not. It ideally needs a layer of PIR to insulate before you apply the plasterboard and then sill but then if your reveals aren't insulated you probably wouldn't bother with this. If you've got cavities (which I don't) you'd want a cavity closer. Here's what I did on our kitchen ruclips.net/video/Ou1CjwflZtM/видео.htmlsi=P8cfZJL4q1QN4SeT There's a section showing how I finished the reveals.
@@CharlieDIYte thank you Charlie, my sandstone walls are over 600mm thick and are rough lime brush coated l, so nothing is flat. It's a real head scratched getting these windows done
Glad you found it useful. I don't think I showed using frame fixings - which is worth doing - and I think might be a building regs requirement too. I generally drill these after the foam has set.
To be honest, I didn't at the time but should have for building regs - and fitted them later. What I've done on subsequent window installs is to get the window level and fixed in position with the expanding foam and then once it's set, I drill through the frame fixings. Otherwise I find it hard to get the window mm perfect as with the best will in the world it can move when you drill it.
Hi I'm looking to change my old aluminium windows on a old home. What would be the required steps to make sure cavity is sealed before fitting new windows on these old houses?? Would you recommend installing cavity closers or insulation foam around the window cavity before fitting or is there another procedure? Hope you can guide me in the right direction. Thanks
+xander witt Hmmm. I'll check the spray can to see what it says - hadn't even thought about that! Your comment about the mask is a good one though - I should definitely have been wearing one with all that brick dust flying around!
Charlie DIYte now im doing my own house i started to watch all products i use, skipping a lot. Ofcourse have a look if its true , but i cant find anything on the internet that is saying it isnt. I have to say that here in China its even worse as they use a lot of asbestos in even cement( i took out a lot of products). Im now left with 2 builders that are not cheap and products that are very expencive,but i hope a much more cleaner way of building.
Worth investing in a good gas mask for these nasties, standard dust masks even P3 won't stop fumes entering your lungs. Plenty to choose from on Screwfix.
You can do a better job if you do it yourself , Like fill in any gaps around the window , Which the window fitters dont bother doing .And allow draughts to get through ..There`s a reason they can install all your windows in just one day .....
It's a fair point Peter, particularly the burnt sand mastic which I haven't used before. I just find the expanding foam fixes it in place on one hand enabling me then to add frame fixings knowing it's not going to move, whilst also offering good insulation.
How are the windows holding up after five years? I spend a good amount of my time dealing with the consequences of squirty foam and portland cement renders in traditional buildings, where it tends to trap moisture and rot the timber (and degrade the masonry). To be fair though it's not normally noticeable until 15-20 years after the fact, unless the building is particularly exposed. By that point the person who did/commissioned the work has usually moved on. Screw the next guy I guess.
I'm no expert BUT shouldn't the new window be FASTENED to wall? With a wood frame around the replacement window, you could screw the new window to the wood frame. With just setting a window into an open hole shouldn't you use, at least, some industrial adhesive or epoxy to attach the window to the opening? With just that little spackling compound it seems as if the window could easily be knocked out.
Yes, for belt and braces it should be. I normally do mechanically fix with frame fixings but this window was rendered in from the outside and held by wood lining board - which itself was thermally insulated with expanding foam on the inside - which you haven't seen as I fixed that in later. I'll be doing some more soon and will emphasise the point!
Nikad prije viđeno! Zaista izuzetno! ruclips.net/video/8NtXOj8duX8/видео.html Revolucionarni sustav, zapanjujuće jednostavnosti i istinski ekonomičan; na gradilištu je to neophodno!
More wood working videos and send them to my phone number and send them to me and send me a message and send them to my phone number and send me a message and I’ll check it out tomorrow and see how you doing and how you doing thanks for the message and thank ya buddy
Hi Charlie. No, in my experience flashings are more associated with (or necessary for) roof windows. The render bead provides a water tight seal around the sides of the window. As an added precaution my new windows have their own sloped sill (the original windows didn't) that sits on the exterior sill and helps to further deflect rain water away from the windows onto the exterior sill. You can't see it in the video, but the sloped window sill has a drip bead underneath - which is an additional precaution to prevent any rain water drips getting sucked under the sill. I had to cover the drip bead with render in this case as the space between the underside of the window sill and exterior sill was too tight, but on the other windows I've installed I had a wider gap so I was able to finish my render bead behind the drip bead.
🛠Charlie DIYte Amazon Tool Store amzn.to/3fcLnY4 - all my tried, tested and much loved DIY tools. You can help support me by Buying me a Coffee ☕ bit.ly/3xuQ3zb or by becoming a Member to unlock a host of benefits - thanks so much 🙏.
dude doesn't fuck around, in all seriousness I thoroughly benefit and learn a great deal from these videos and your others, thank you
Hi Charlie. Im good-ish as a paId handyman but you're bettererer. I'm 61, I have a small business and I take on only what I know. I am getting GREAT tips from you, you are a great help. You're a terrific presenter / teacher, and your vids are so clear and VERY easy to follow. Hope you carry on for many years and you get the success you deserve from this channel.
Thanks so much Colin. It gives me a massive buzz to know that my videos are helping people out in some way or other! Thanks so much for taking the time to comment!
Currently converting 2 garage doors into window/French doors respectively - it’s an old stone barn garage and I haven’t actually done any window work before, but I know I prefer working with mortar mixes rather than silicon etc, have found with this house that the stones seem to prefer it (so to speak) so this was exactly the video I needed to reassure myself I’m doing ok! Marvellous…
Hi Charlie
You posted this over two years ago but I just needed it. I normally do cabinet work but today removed a rotted window and replaced it. Your video helped prepare me for the job and it all went swimmingly. Thanks a million
Hi Charlie. How do you measure and order the right size of window to the greatest degree of accuracy without removing the window and discovering the true size of the aperture first? How much play are you allowing for and where on the original windows are you measuring to find this out? Thanks in advance.
Great stuff, Charlie! Thank you so much for gifting your knowledge for free to the rest of the DIY community 🙏
That's very kind of you, particularly as a lot of people take it rather for granted that it's free. 👊
Magic! I have a few windows to replace (one more urgently than the others lol!), but I don't want to pay someone else to do it for a load of reasons.
I can now see how relatively simple it is to do, thanks to you. :)
Don't forget to screw them in place with frame fixings (I tend to do this after the foam has set) and you'll need building regs approval, which you can get retrospectively but worth lining that up before the event really, to ensure the windows are compliant.
An excellent video and guide, I've always loved your videos, it's thanks to you I've not only gained confidence in my own ability but have also saved money whilst doing so! Look forward to the next venture!
Keep up the brilliant work!
+Kas Qad Kas, that is the best comment I've received to date! - it can be quite a lonely, time consuming existence making and editing these videos - so comments like yours are so important. Massive thanks, and keep up the good work!
Charlie DIYte, not at all, it's you we should all be thanking for taking the time out to actually put this together, we should all try to share our experiences and advice with one another to help your fellow man/woman!
Through your videos, your inadvertently creating a collaborative network with your tutorials and advice, if only everyone else in the world shared the same values!
Keep it up Charlie!
I´m with Kas! But I would´ve used a mask on some of those dustier chores. Best regards Charlie
I could rely on you ..... I’m getting windows fitted in at this minute and just making sure that it’s done right! Thanks again !
You're welcome. Hope the install went well.
Hi! Nice video - well-explained, thank you very much. I'm just about to do a similar job in an old stone-built cottage. I'm a bit scared of messing it up because they are sash windows and I'm not sure what I'll find when I get them out, but at some point we have to grasp the nettle don't we? Is there any way you could update on using frame fixings at some point please?
Well done taking on what I would call a scary job. Just wondered if you thought about using Lyme for your mortar as I hear Victorian brick houses don’t like the Portland stuff.
Thanks Charlie, another great video with simple, clear instruction
Thanks. Only thing is if you've got one to install, put a couple of frame fixings in each side. I think I missed that point in the vid. The trick is to get the window straight with the foam and then drill in the fixings when the foam has set hard. 👊
@@CharlieDIYte thank you Charlie, will do that today 👍
How do you finish and seal the inside? Is it the same method as the outside?
Good video. 2 things thatd make life a lot easier would be a reciprocating saw for removal of old windows, to avoid damage to the substrate by hammering and a proper gun for the foam. Much easier to control I find.
I agree Ben, as discussed here ruclips.net/video/Obc1thYnLEs/видео.html although I have a non stick gun now which is also much better as you don't need to revive and clean it until the foam has been used up in the can whereas my old gun blocked up regularly
Excellent, Charlie! Thanks for posting 😊 👍
You're welcome. Make sure you mechanically fix too. I use frame fixings and drill them in after the foam has set.
Thank you Charlie for all of your advice and simple explanations
Beautiful windows. Good DIY job, well done.
Thanks for the tips once again Charlie, start putting my own windows in on Tuesday
You're welcome Chris. A couple of things. You should mechanically fix them too. I think this might be a regs requirement. I get them in position, wedge them then apply the expanding foam. Once that's set you can drill through the frames and insert frame fixings. Some people do this through the hinge rebates so the holes are hidden but if yours are hand painted like mine you can fill after for an invisible job. I have a building regs consultant who is going to grant me retrospective consent when I get round to it. It's just something people might pick up on when you come to sell so worth considering.
That looks so easy. You don't use metal brackets or screw into the brick all the way around?
Very helpful, thank you Charlie.
Thanks Barry. The one thing I neglected to mention was the mechanical fixings. I typically use the expanding foam to get the window in the right position and when it's set, you can then drill in frame fixings. I find if you try and do this beforehand the window can easily move out of line.
no dpc installed , i know it's boring , but PPE , gloves , glasses , dust mask are really essential
I did this job thanks to you.......Big up Charlie
That's great to great Dominic. Excellent work. 👍
After watch your video I installed my pvc windows, thanks very much for the video.
Well done Charlie good clear precise video keep up the good work from a fellow traditionalist I learned a few new tricks from yourself looking forward to seeing all your videos Best wishes to you and your family from joe
Lovely views out of your windows Charlie!
Thanks mate. There are on that side. Look left though and there's a busy road and a petrol station 🤣
Hi have you got a video for changing UPvc windows please
What a good egg you are.. Need this vid!
Hi Charlie thanks for all the great videos. Question if you happen to see this, I have been researching a lot about the damp issues that cement causes when applied to older properties due to the substance trapping moisture, including the likes of pointing and rendering and so forth, with lime mixes being better recommended due to its breathability. I have also viewed several videos showing how timber window frames have rotted where cement has been used to seal around the frames. So as I embark on replacing my own windows I wonder whether I’d be better using a lime mortar of sorts around the frames, curious to know if you have any thoughts on this
I haven't really done any scientific research to compare the two but I tend to add a waterproof admix to the sand and cement which also acts as a plasticiser. When painted I really haven't had any problems with water ingress/ rotting although that happens elsewhere because of the soft wood frames and sun 😉
Hi Charlie, Thanks for a great video. Have you done anything with your outside window brick sill? I have a similar one to yours and I have a black substance on that. I am not sure what is that.
Hi Charlie, nice work, did you use a mechanical fixing?
Charlie - sorry to dig up one of your vintage vids. However I'm looking at doing the same thing but with a upvc window. Intrigued to know how you got those hammer screws all the way through what looks like a very deep frame? And did you use no silicone anywhere here?
Serious skills man.
Cheers mate. Easier than it looks!
Charlie, great video, lovely job. what did you do with the inside, lay a course of bricks down. Also did u ever go back and add frame fixings?
Thanks mate. Yes I did add frame fixings as this is I think a building regs requirement. Here's a recent install where I show this ruclips.net/video/02Fd1pyOia0/видео.htmlsi=c0MLSRLbmRHEZAaN
love the window and love your video.
Thanks - love your comment!
Very good video, thank you
Did you use any frame fixings or any another mechanical fixings? Or is it just the foam locking the window in place?
Mark Hannah Hi Mark. You should really use a combination of the both - frame fixings and foam. My suggestion would be to get the window in position and horizontal etc, wedge it in place, fix with foam and then when the foam has set, drill in the mechanical fixings. If you do this before the foam and like me, the window isn't completely flush in the recess, it might move around a bit when you drill it for the mechanical fixings. And don't forget to get the necessary LABC certification - see my reply to Iain's comment below, on this.
Please do a video on how to replace an internal door, hinges and lock.
How did you fix the frame to the brick? I'm putting in a exterior door frame for the side of my house and Im not sure how I fix the frame to the brick. Do I offer up the frame, make a drill hole in the frame to mark the brick, then remove the frame, raw plug the brick then put the frame back on and screw into the fixing. You are normally very detailed with your jobs, think I may have missed something. Please advise. Great job as ever
Yes Craig, I omitted that step from this video which was a big error - particularly as it's a building regs requirement. What I like to do is anchor the frame in position using the expanding foam, because that way you can get it in exactly the right position, all trued up. When the foam has set, I drill through the frame into the brickwork and insert frame fixings into the frame, slightly recessed into the surface of the wooden frame - so when I knock the plastic frame fixing plug into place it's half in the wall and half in the window frame if that makes sense. I can then screw the frame tightly in place, and fill the hole when that's done. Some people hide the holes behind the window hinges. I find if you try and drill first, with the best will in the world the frame can move when you're drilling and or inserting the screws. Same principle with the door frame, I would have thought, and you want the expanding foam just to insulate the gap nicely to eliminate any cold bridging.
@@CharlieDIYte Agh, that's the Charlie detail I was looking for. Thanks for taking the time to clarify this.
I have never used frame fixings, there is nothing on RUclips to demonstrate these. I had no idea that some of these scew fixings screw directly into the wall with no plug?! This ruined my mind a little bit as I have always assumed a fixing into brick or block had to have a Raw plug. I'm about to widen the side door of my house to get a motorbike through, so I will be trying these frame fixings.
I was also surprised by the window fixing which come with there own plug, but weirdly do not expand when the screw is driven through it. I couldn't understand this then I thought, I guess the fixing won't have any pulling pressure on them. I know you have done some great videos on fixing into plasterboard. I hope I see one of your projects using these fixings in the future. Be too late for me but interesting for your channel. Also, have you see those inflatable wedges? Genius I think. They are used to hang doors and windows. They are used instead of shims. Bit like your foam idea to hold them in place. You do of course still have to use packers.
Anyway, thanks again Charlie, keep those videos coming. I appreciate your hard work and attention to detail.
Great video mate. 👊🏻
Thanks mate. Just remember to always mechanically fix too, with frame fixings. For some reason I omitted to mention that.
Did you have to get building regs approval?
Fantastic job and what a legend you're sharing your knowledge 👏.
I have always wondered about the installation of windows, if the windows receive heavy rain, is flashing underneath mandatory?
Thanks Rob. It very much depends on the configuration of the walls, and whether you're installing from the inside or outside but my original windows weren't flashed. The key is a watertight seal I would have thought but check the regs requirements in your area. 👍
You shouldv'e put a few screws to fit the frame into the brickwork! Expanding foam is just glue LOL Once you get the boys wrestling in the bedroom; a knock or two will eventually make that frame fall out.
Absolutely right and something I should have shown in this vid. I've got a window going in, in my next vid on Zinsser All Coat and I'll be showing that being mechanically fixed in place.
Man you made that look so easy
Thanks buddy. It's not the first I've done. They get easier. If you do this, put some frame fixings in too, to mechanically fix it in place.
Bravo nice job😊 but why this window is open to the outside?
It's the way these storm profile windows work. If it opens inwards it's much more likely to leak
Awesome video! Thanks.
But duuuude! Wear a dust mask (or better!) when you're grinding brick! It doesn't seem important now, but it will later!
Fair point. I do these days 👊
Lovely job and overly job. Sounds like a lovely place where ever you are in the country.
+Zed Man Cheers mate. It's not bad, though not quite as remote and idyllic as it looks on camera! Also very dilapidated, but that's what I've got to thank for all the videos ☺️
Did you have to get a new FENSA certificate for this?
Enjoyed the video! I may give the next window replacement a shot myself! Also get yourself a foam gun, worth its weight in gold if you have any foaming to do! Also... do you have to LABC out to inspect after changing the window out?
Thanks Iain! You certainly do - potentially during and after installation, and you have to get a certificate to prove that you have complied. There's lots of info on the web eg www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/replacementregs.htm
Hi Charlie! whats the next step after you apply the foam around the inside of the window? do you then apply silicone?
Inside? Ideally insulation layer, a vapour barrier, then plasterboard and usually plaster up to window frame. You can put stop beads, but usually more hassle than worth.
Did you not install window frame fixings? I was hoping to see how you did that. Also if you replace and up Christmas doors l would find that helpful. Great job as usual!
Yes you want frame fixings. I tend to put these in after the foam has secured the window in place. You're right, I omitted to mention them here 🙄
How did you apply the machanical fixings after the foam set?
There's a clip of me doing it here ruclips.net/video/02Fd1pyOia0/видео.htmlsi=QdDmMzu7vNK9ceUr You basically drill the frame with a bit that has the same diameter or slightly larger than the frame fixing and countersunk the surface. Then insert the concrete bit (I use SDS) drill to the correct depth. Give it a really good wiggle as often the frame fixing gets caught. Then insert the frame fixing. Lightly tap it in as far as it will go with a hammer without damaging it, then insert the screw and hammer it home until fully inserted. And then screw it tight. Then fill the hole with 2 part wood filler. Some people say drill where the hinges are so the hole is hidden but I prefer to fix it further back in the frame.
@@CharlieDIYte legend! I have just bought a stone/brick cottage built in the mid 1800s and the rotten windows need replacing. This video has been a god send. Many thanks!
What kind of disk would you use for grinding bricks/blocks?
These days, diamond disks. So much more durable.
QUESTION: How did you finish up the interior sill?
It depends on whether you've got internal wall insulation or not. It ideally needs a layer of PIR to insulate before you apply the plasterboard and then sill but then if your reveals aren't insulated you probably wouldn't bother with this. If you've got cavities (which I don't) you'd want a cavity closer. Here's what I did on our kitchen ruclips.net/video/Ou1CjwflZtM/видео.htmlsi=P8cfZJL4q1QN4SeT There's a section showing how I finished the reveals.
@@CharlieDIYte thank you Charlie, my sandstone walls are over 600mm thick and are rough lime brush coated l, so nothing is flat. It's a real head scratched getting these windows done
Better than the cowboy window installers that did mine
Were they hardwood windows Charlie? Just curious.
@Charlie DIYte, my wife always says to me "Are you sure you know what you are doing" any suggestions for a reply to this
Just the job ,thank you
Glad you found it useful. I don't think I showed using frame fixings - which is worth doing - and I think might be a building regs requirement too. I generally drill these after the foam has set.
Hi Charlie! Thanks for your instructions. Very useful. Did I skip that or haven't used fixing screws for the frame?
To be honest, I didn't at the time but should have for building regs - and fitted them later. What I've done on subsequent window installs is to get the window level and fixed in position with the expanding foam and then once it's set, I drill through the frame fixings. Otherwise I find it hard to get the window mm perfect as with the best will in the world it can move when you drill it.
@@CharlieDIYte thanks! I thought it requires screws for regs.
Did you self-certify or asked local council to issue FENSA certificate?
I noticed the timber lintel, do you not have to replace this? (Genuine question lol)
No, it's been doing a fine job for over 100 years ago why change it now?
I picked up some useful tips on this one ta
You're welcome. Thanks 👍
Would of done a down motion instead of upwards
I thought you stopped for a coffee but was just a nescafe advertisement
Sorry about that 🤣
Very good
Thanks!
I also have an old wooden sill which is rotten. Any idea how I go about replacing this?
Is it completely rotten? If not there's some pretty good 2 part epoxy I could recommend.
Charlie DIYte yeah completely gone. It will need replacing.
Hi
I'm looking to change my old aluminium windows on a old home.
What would be the required steps to make sure cavity is sealed before fitting new windows on these old houses??
Would you recommend installing cavity closers or insulation foam around the window cavity before fitting or is there another procedure?
Hope you can guide me in the right direction.
Thanks
Very nice job. Only i learned to have a mask on with Foam filler as its Carcinogenic material ( better not use if can ) , but thats what im told.
+xander witt Hmmm. I'll check the spray can to see what it says - hadn't even thought about that! Your comment about the mask is a good one though - I should definitely have been wearing one with all that brick dust flying around!
Charlie DIYte now im doing my own house i started to watch all products i use, skipping a lot. Ofcourse have a look if its true , but i cant find anything on the internet that is saying it isnt. I have to say that here in China its even worse as they use a lot of asbestos in even cement( i took out a lot of products). Im now left with 2 builders that are not cheap and products that are very expencive,but i hope a much more cleaner way of building.
Worth investing in a good gas mask for these nasties, standard dust masks even P3 won't stop fumes entering your lungs. Plenty to choose from on Screwfix.
Nice job Charlie
So you didn’t fix this by screws ?
I did actually after the event, a big omission in this vid, and I think you need it mechanically fixed for FENSA compliance.
Charlie DIYte thanks for your reply. I like your vids. They are very helpful. Is this your full time job? Do you live close to Kidderminster?
Wow that dust looks a killer for your bedroom there! Did you not have a fan to wack in the background to try and blow dust out?
Great job though!
You can do a better job if you do it yourself , Like fill in any gaps around the window , Which the window fitters dont bother doing .And allow draughts to get through ..There`s a reason they can install all your windows in just one day .....
How long did it take to replace the window?
zibzabboy It took a day from start to finish including the render bead on the outside.
Great job....
Couldn’t you have used oakum and burnt sand mastic for a more traditional job ?
It's a fair point Peter, particularly the burnt sand mastic which I haven't used before. I just find the expanding foam fixes it in place on one hand enabling me then to add frame fixings knowing it's not going to move, whilst also offering good insulation.
cheers
How are the windows holding up after five years? I spend a good amount of my time dealing with the consequences of squirty foam and portland cement renders in traditional buildings, where it tends to trap moisture and rot the timber (and degrade the masonry). To be fair though it's not normally noticeable until 15-20 years after the fact, unless the building is particularly exposed. By that point the person who did/commissioned the work has usually moved on. Screw the next guy I guess.
Nooice!
Surprised you didn't make the windows yourself
I'm no expert BUT shouldn't the new window be FASTENED to wall? With a wood frame around the replacement window, you could screw the new window to the wood frame. With just setting a window into an open hole shouldn't you use, at least, some industrial adhesive or epoxy to attach the window to the opening? With just that little spackling compound it seems as if the window could easily be knocked out.
Yes, for belt and braces it should be. I normally do mechanically fix with frame fixings but this window was rendered in from the outside and held by wood lining board - which itself was thermally insulated with expanding foam on the inside - which you haven't seen as I fixed that in later. I'll be doing some more soon and will emphasise the point!
The old windows didn't go on Gumtree then😂
Jesus plz use a saw to cut the windows out.
Great Job Charlie but we all noticed you needed the wife at the end ( Smile) for us singles out there lol Good Video !
Nikad prije viđeno! Zaista izuzetno! ruclips.net/video/8NtXOj8duX8/видео.html
Revolucionarni sustav, zapanjujuće jednostavnosti i istinski ekonomičan; na gradilištu je to neophodno!
More wood working videos and send them to my phone number and send them to me and send me a message and send them to my phone number and send me a message and I’ll check it out tomorrow and see how you doing and how you doing thanks for the message and thank ya buddy
Does it need any flashing?
Hi Charlie. No, in my experience flashings are more associated with (or necessary for) roof windows. The render bead provides a water tight seal around the sides of the window. As an added precaution my new windows have their own sloped sill (the original windows didn't) that sits on the exterior sill and helps to further deflect rain water away from the windows onto the exterior sill.
You can't see it in the video, but the sloped window sill has a drip bead underneath - which is an additional precaution to prevent any rain water drips getting sucked under the sill. I had to cover the drip bead with render in this case as the space between the underside of the window sill and exterior sill was too tight, but on the other windows I've installed I had a wider gap so I was able to finish my render bead behind the drip bead.